"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - May thru Mid-June, 2006 Archives


Cockshutt Parts

IP: 72.25.230.98 Posted on June 10, 2006 at 09:49:36 PM by Walt

I own series 30 and 40 Cockshutt tractors that I am currently restoring. I was wondering where the best place to buy engine and clutch parts for 4 and 6 cylinder Buda engines. Walt

Re(1): Cockshutt Parts

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:50:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Allen Adams in Yoder IN 260-622-7246 www.cockshutt.com Larry


Oliver 1250 Fiat

IP: 65.54.98.140 Posted on June 10, 2006 at 07:50:28 PM by J Shope

I need to know were I can purchise Rings, rod bearings, and a complete gasket set for my Oliver 1250 Fiat gas engine. J Shope

Re(1): Oliver 1250 Fiat

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:46:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with: www.agpartsfirst.com (866-264-9720) or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 or www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry


Super 55

IP: 4.89.184.209 Posted on June 10, 2006 at 07:39:57 PM by Marvin Welker

I did a major overhall on a super 55 diesel,sleeves,pistons,valves,injectors,pump,and rod & main bearings.It ran perfect for a while, then it started running rough and slobbers oil out the exhaust. What is the problem. Marvin Welker

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:43:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if you are getting too much oil onto the exhaust valve stems. Take the valve cover off and watch it. Are you sure if it is oil or could it be fuel? Check your power cells and make sure they are not plugged with carbon. Larry


660 hydraulics

IP: 63.26.230.224 Posted on June 10, 2006 at 12:25:30 PM by Dean Gabbert

My 660 has trouble lifting my rotary rake. I read in oliver heritage of a s77 with the same problem. You said to add shims to the relief valve.Would this work on the 660 and are the shims the same as the s77s. Dean

Re(1): 660 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:38:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will work on your 660 and the shims are the same. Larry


2255

IP: 71.32.174.68 Posted on June 10, 2006 at 11:25:05 AM by Bill Gassmann

Can I turbo charge a 3150 cat engine in a 2255 oliver tractor? If so, how? Bill

Re(1): 2255

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:37:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. You should talk to the Cat people. Larry


S88 Hydraulic ?

IP: 67.142.130.35 Posted on June 9, 2006 at 09:15:42 AM by Jason Epperson

My neighbor has a Super 88 that he is wanting to put a 2 spool valve on so he can run a loader and still have the use of the remotes. Is there a way to tie into the hydraulics without disturbing the remote outlets? Jason

Re(1): S88 Hydraulic ?

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:31:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There is a Power-Beyond port just ahead of the front port for the left control valve. It is a 1/2" pipe plug. You have to remove this plug and a inch and a half inside the housing, you will find a threaded passage. This must be blocked with a 3/8" socket head pipe plug. This oil has to be returned to the other side of the unit to a port located just in front of the hydraulic filter. This will have the socket head 3/8" pipe plug that you need to plug the other passage. You may have to move the dash a little to gain access to this plug or you can cut a hole in the dash to get through to work on the plug. Otherwise, if you have to service the pump itself, you can accompolish all of this when the hydraulic unit is off of the tractor. Larry


1650 powertrain

IP: 71.2.11.12 Posted on June 8, 2006 at 08:05:00 AM by Joe

My 1967 1650 (Hydro Power drive but not over/under) has trouble generating power under load or when on moderate to steep grades. For instance, when I am trying to back up a grade, after letting the clutch out it takes about 15 seconds for the tractor to generate enough power to get the wheels turning. The engine runs great, but the drive system acts like it is trying to generate enough hydraulic pressure to get it moving, then it finally does and once it is moving it develops full power to the wheels. I have checked the fluid levels and all seem to be ok. Any recommendations? Joe

Re(1): 1650 powertrain

IP: 67.2.242.55 Posted on June 11, 2006 at 06:22:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Your problem is low pressure to the direct drive clutch pack in the hydra-power unit. There is probably leakage of pressurized oil going into the clutch pack. I think you are going to have to tear the unit down and repair the unit as required. Larry


770 w/loader question

IP: 63.251.176.209 Posted on June 5, 2006 at 03:45:16 PM by Andy Hanks

I just bought my first tractor, a 1960 Oliver 770 with a 325 DuAL loader. The loader is operated by a pump attached to the PTO. Is it possible to re-route the loader hydraulics to run off of the tractor's system instead? Also, what could I expect to spend for power steering and a wide front end? Andy

Re(1): 770 w/loader question

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on June 5, 2006 at 07:57:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It can be switched, but it will not perform as you would hope. I personally would leave it the way it is already set up. A power steering and a wide front will run at least $1000. Larry

Re(2): 770 w/loader question

IP: 63.251.176.209 Posted on June 6, 2006 at 11:03:18 AM by Andy Hanks

Thanks for the quick reply. It works fine the way it is; just thought it would be handy to be able to move the loader while operating a pto-driven implement, i.e. brush hog. Andy


1855

IP: 12.47.34.117 Posted on June 5, 2006 at 00:35:20 AM by elijah quist

baught a oliver 1855 and it had milky white hydrolic fluid whats the best way to flush it all out and what kind of oil should i use for the over under power shift thanks

Re(1): 1855

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on June 5, 2006 at 07:54:05 PM by Larry Harsin

First you should get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net There is a drain plug on the bottom of the hydraulic filter. You should replace the filter when you replace the fluid. When putting new fluid in the system use a Type 55 fluid that meets the specs for that application. It will tell you this in the Operator's Manual. Do not use Hy-Tran in this system. I would get fluid from AGCO after telling them what tractor I am putting it into. Larry


1250 Oliver gas

IP: 65.54.98.102 Posted on June 4, 2006 at 06:24:58 PM by J Shope

I have a 1970 oliver1250 gas engine,everybody tells me the motor is a Waukesha engine,the head and crank bolsts say Fiat on them does this nean I have a Fiat or a Waukesha engine. J Shope

Re(1): 1250 Oliver gas

IP: 67.2.249.41 Posted on June 5, 2006 at 07:49:45 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a Fiat engine, built in Italy. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net This would give you a lot of info about your tractor. Larry


770 oil level

IP: 66.242.45.34 Posted on June 4, 2006 at 09:42:46 AM by m. miller

Where do you check the oil level in the transmission,rearend? Is it all in one compartment? What is the best oil grade to run in ohio? M. Miller

Re(1): 770 oil level

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on June 4, 2006 at 04:32:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The test plug is located on the transmission housing just ahead of the right brake housing. It is a 1/2" pipe plug. The transmission and rear end are all one compartment. If the tractor is not equipped with the power booster for the transmission, I would use 80/90 gear oil. If it does have the power booster, I would reccommend you use a product like Mobil-Trans HD50 or IH Hy-Tran. AGCO also has an equivalant of these. Larry


model 70 eng.

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on June 2, 2006 at 05:09:31 PM by john Reynolds

Dear Larry we have 1944 70 and we need to find out what kind of engine that is on it so we can replace the head gasket. The serial #is 245817.I also heard that it is ok for 70s to have cracks between the sleeves on the #2and3 and #3and 4 cylynders does that sound right.I hope I gave you enough info to answer all these questions. Thank ya. John

Re(1): model 70 eng.

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on June 2, 2006 at 10:54:38 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a Continental engine. You can get a head gasket from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or your AGCO Dealer. Larry


1655D running hot?

IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on June 2, 2006 at 06:46:54 AM by Chad (IA)

Larry, I went on a 4 hour tractor ride last weekend running between 1600 and 2200 RPMs the whole way. About 2 minutes in at 2200 the temp gauge showed in the high black area, never quite made it in the red. I backed down to about 1600 RPMs and a couple minutes later the temp went down a little but fluctuated between the right side of the "N" and just left of the red mark the whole day. It is a fairly new tractor so I don't have alot of experience with normal operating temps. It seems to me it is running too hot. Would you agree I need to have this looked at? I know the fan is running, it has full coolant, new radiator hoses. Radiator has "1993" etched on it, but don't know if it was new or used at time. Never looked at the thermostat. Any ideas? Chad

Re(1): 1655D running hot?

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on June 2, 2006 at 10:49:41 PM by Larry Harsin

If you didn't have to add coolant, I don't think I'd worry too much about it. If the fan belt wasn't new, I'd put on a new fan belt. If that doesn't do it, I would change the thermostat. It might be getting sticky. Larry


88 Diesel- low torque

IP: 162.39.50.157 Posted on June 1, 2006 at 03:17:24 PM by Derek Day

I have an Oliver 88 diesel with a 283 engine (it has flat-top 3 7/8 pistons). I updated the fuel system with a Roosa Master (Stanadyne) pump, but now it doesn't seem to have the low end torque that it used to have. Any thoughts? Also, would an 1800 diesel head fit on the 88 to get some more horsepower? Thanks in advance for any information. Derek

Re(1): 88 Diesel- low torque

IP: 67.2.249.117 Posted on June 1, 2006 at 09:07:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I would recheck the timing and make sure it is getting plenty of clean fuel. The 1800 diesel head will not fit onto an 88 block. Bolt head pattern is different among other things. Larry


Diesel Additive

IP: 69.26.8.208 Posted on June 1, 2006 at 10:10:48 AM by Bill Wagner

I just heard from my fuel supplier that as of June 1 all diesel sold must be low sulpher diesel and he says I need to use an additive to protect the pump and engine on my Oliver 1650. Is he correct? Any particular additive you would recommend? Bill

Re(1): Diesel Additive

IP: 67.2.249.117 Posted on June 1, 2006 at 09:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I would go by what your supplier reccommends. He probably has the additive and can put it in when he fills your barrel. Larry


1550

IP: 67.138.11.33 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 06:19:02 PM by shad

I have a loss of power in my 1550 diesel under load I can only run in 1st gear and after a while it starts to heat up with no load the tractor seems fine any advice would be greatly appreciated. Shad

Re(1): 1550

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:58:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have checked to make sure that it is getting plenty of air in the air system and is getting plenty of fuel in the fuel system, I'd be inclined to suspect that the injection pump has a problem, such as a governor ring that is breaking up. Remove the cover that is held with 2 screws, on the side of the pump. If you see any foreign material in the fuel, that will confirm that your governor ring is breaking up. Larry


1550 hard starting

IP: 204.13.145.118 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 07:47:28 PM by Lou

Sir; My 1550 Diesel is hard to start now. This winter while tractor was on the generator at PTO speed my fuel waxed up and shut the tractor down, she wouldn't restart, so we towed her out of the way. A week later I pulled the sediment bowl out drained the tank, replaced the sediment bowl flushed the fuel lines, replaced the filters and gravity bleed the system. She was a little hard to start that day but did, it has gotten progressively harder to start (more and more cranking), this weekend with temps in the 80's, I ran the battery down tring after recharging the battery and opening the bleed screws (no air visible). Using full trottle it finaly started and sounded fine. I loosened each injector line and the RPM decreased about the same for each cylinder. My manual talks about adjusting the transfer pump pressure, however the picture is unreadable, any recomendations. Thanks. Lou

Re(1): 1550 hard starting

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:53:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you should talk to a "Pump Shop" about this. There may be some foreign material in the inlet of the pump - but I would talk to them about that and see what they say. Larry


Carb for 550

IP: 64.146.251.52 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 04:24:18 PM by sbj1292

Currently have the MArvel-Schebler TSX603, cleaned it and put in new needles and gasket. Not running consistant at high RPM, will make an adjustment and run OK for a while and then starts loosing RPM. I know there are other makes and models avail. for this 550. Is there a better one out there than the TSX603? Thanks, Scott

Re(1): Carb for 550

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:48:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure that the carb is your problem. Have you checked your fuel strainer. Remove it from the tank and make sure there are no obstructions and the strainer is clean. Have you checked out your electrical system,points, wire connections and switch? As a last resort, get a vacuum gauge and put it on the intake manifold where the 1/8" pipe fitting is. Remove that and install the gauge. I don't see another carb in the parts manual and in Valu-Bilt's catalog, that will replace the TSX603. Larry

Re(2): Carb for 550

IP: 69.77.129.178 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 09:18:39 PM by Johnny Mash

TSX-811 was on some 550's. Also the TSX-775. Mine has the 811. Johnny


1850 three point

IP: 216.166.159.184 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 11:40:31 AM by Dennis Bernard

I am currently working on an 1850. When I started the tractor up. The three point arms went up, but now they won't go down. Both hydraulic remotes are working as thet should. I don't know if this is a linkage problem or what. I also just replaced a broken roll pin inside the three point linkage to the hydraulic piston. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Once Again, Thank You, Dennis Bernard

Re(1): 1850 three point

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:38:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I think there is a good chance that the linkage is messed up. You should get an I&T Shop Manual from Charles City. It shows you a schematic diagram of the linkage and how it is layed out. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry


1650 Hydraulic Pump Problem

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 09:11:37 PM by David Cruise

Replaced my 1650 hydraulic pump over the weekend. Started tractor and pump made a whine and rattling noise immediatly after being started. Everything worked fine but as the pressure (turning steeering wheel) increased the noise increased. I tore everything down again and returned the pump and received a new one from Maibach Tractor here in Ohio.These are new pumps not rebuilt, after working another 6 hours in the hot sun I finally finished it and started it again. The pump works great but I still have that loud "Growling" noise coming from the pump. I also replaced the needle bearing on the drive gear for the pump. New oil from tractor supply, all season. 3 point lifts at idle. What am I doing wrong? Maybe air in the oil? I don't have a clue at this point. Will it damage the new pump by running it this way? Thank You for your help! David Cruise

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulic Pump Problem

IP: 67.2.248.157 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 09:38:09 PM by Larry Harsin

When the 3 pt. is raised to the top, is the pump still pushing? If so, readjust your linkage on the 3 pt. control. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Hydraulic Pump Problem

IP: 64.12.116.70 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 05:55:01 AM by David Cruise

Yes, it growls when coming to the top and acts like it wants to go further. So I should adjust that linkage? Is that what is making the noise I am hearing when it is running? I will go out and check it out this morning. Thanks. David Cruise

Re(3): 1650 Hydraulic Pump Problem

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:34:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is what is going on. Just push your 3 pt. lever forward and the noise should quit and the arms should go down. Larry


oliver parts

IP: 216.49.232.149 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 08:01:31 PM by gregory

I have just aquired a 1969 model 1650 Oliver and need a new water pump for it. Wondered if you might know where I could find this? Gregory

Re(1): oliver parts

IP: 67.2.248.157 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 09:34:08 PM by Larry Harsin Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry


1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 24.208.199.22 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 07:43:43 PM by Jeff Schneider

I just replaced a rockshaft housing on my 1800 series B because the casting was broken where the left rear remote screws in (bought the tractor this way) I installed the same p/n casting, swapping the pump, lift cylinder, steering bypass valve, servo valve, and hydro electric unit into the replacement. My three point lift didn't work before the swap, but I had pressure on the remotes and to the power steering. I used all new orings and I didn't tear down any of the major sub assemblies except for putting a new oring on the lift piston. Now after the swap, the power steering is weak, no pressure at the remotes, still no three point (maybe I should've used the "other" servo valve), and the pump is noisy over 1000 rpm. Turning the steering slightly left or right creates a whine. I did note one difference, the replacement rockshaft housing was not equipped with a bypass line like mine. (I swapped it over from my original - this is just a plain aluminum line without a valve in it and neither casting has an adjustable bypass valve as shown for the later model in the IT manual located on the r/h side near the brake pedal locks so I put it like my original). I did take this line loose at where it connects into the hydro electric unit. There was no evidence of fluid at this port. I've also backed out the "rate" screws for the remotes and the other two screws on each side have multiple threads showing so I left them alone. I looked into the fill port and I can see fluid flowing, (no foam or bubbles) and by following the IT manual instruction I was able to "drain" or pump out about 4 gallons at at steady stream that increased volume with rpm increase. I'm using TSC's brand of all season oil. I think its the equivalent of 20W. (I know it recommends 10W, but I was using the all season oil before without issue.) Sorry for the long post but the IT manual isn't helping and my pump was good before the swap. Suggestions? Thx. Jeff

Re(1): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 67.2.248.157 Posted on May 29, 2006 at 09:32:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have a blocked passage someplace. Check for a blockage where the cast lid is installed on the left front. Someone may have blocked a passage there to use a "power beyond" outlet. Your unit probably has the filter on the side of the unit instead of the front?? Is your flow divider on the front? It just sounds like you have a blocked passage. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 205.245.255.244 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 06:39:52 AM by Jeff Schneider

My filter is on the left side and flow divider (I think I mistakingly called it the power steering bypass)on the front. The replacement casting did have a pair of hoses hooked up on the left upper side fwd of the filter. (Are these ports the "power beyond"?)I removed the junk hoses and installed the plugs that were in my original casting. I need to get an operators manual... I'll go on the hunt for something blocked. Thanks. Jeff

Re(3): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 4.249.204.5 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 09:44:48 AM by Larry from md

As a quick test you could reconnect those 2 holes you plugged.If it works you know you need to remove the inside plug. Larry from MD

Re(4): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 205.245.254.233 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 11:49:52 AM by Jeff Schneider

I'll try hooking my lines into those ports. If that works, what plug needs pulled? Will this also affect the operation of my three point lift or do you think I have a servo valve issue for that part. Jeff

Re(5): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 24.208.199.22 Posted on May 30, 2006 at 06:26:58 PM by Jeff Schneider

Things I found out tonight, My new hydraulic oil filter was just a dry as it was when installed. I'm sure I had it in right as the open end was inwards towards the housing. There was also no oil in the manifolds for the remotes, both in the housing and the top cover. I'm also using the earlier version of top cover. (Housing I've installed had the later version, but that top cover had a busted switch pack and no oil fill cap) The priority valves are also different, physically and by p/n. Ican post that if it may mean something. I took apart the priority valve that was originally installed on my tractor trying to follow out the manifold. I found that someone has added a flat washer under the spring to the spool valve. (The relief has 2 shims) I removed the washer since it looked out of place and the IT manual doesn't show it. I've removed the plugs that I can access and everything so far looks clear. I have yet to pull the housing back off the tractor and check the relief valve or pump. I would have plumbed into the side and tried that but I already had the system drained from last night. (With the engine running at 1000 rpm it pumped out about 4 gallons. With the top cover off I'm guessing that about a gallon is still in there.) I'm going to pull the servo valve next and see what I can see. Jeff

Re(6): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 67.2.248.45 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:30:03 PM by Larry Harsin

Those hoses that were on the left side of the unit you put on there, were serving the function of a "Power Beyond" application. Somewhere between where those 2 hoses are hooked on the housing, I think there will be a plugged passage. If you reinstall those hoses and connect them, I think your hydraulic unit will work. Larry

Re(7): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 205.245.254.74 Posted on June 1, 2006 at 09:08:20 AM by Jeff Schneider

I found the "blockage" it was a plug in the manifold between the two ports I removed the hoses from. My three point still doesn't work, but I have pressure at the remotes. Thats enough to cut hay with... and I know how to plumb the tractor for "power beyond" should I need that feature. For the three point, I tried the extra servo valve from the replacement housing since it didn't take much time to pull the top cover, but that was no help. Any thoughts? I have both an extra servo valve and lift cylinder that I could be rebuilding... Thanks for getting me in the right direction. Jeff

Re(8): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on June 2, 2006 at 04:57:50 AM by Larry Harsin

There may be a relief valve that is broken or stuck open on that 3 pt. Larry

Re(9): 1800 Hydraulic problem

IP: 205.245.255.242 Posted on June 8, 2006 at 11:56:27 AM by Jeff Schneider

I hope it's that simple. I could see the relief valve with the top cover off but I didn't try to get a wrench on it at the time to see if I could remove it without taking everything back apart. That'll be my fall project when I put the tractor up after hay season. I'll post up what I find. Thanks for your help. Jeff


Marvel Schebler Carburetors

IP: 216.16.57.235 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 09:52:40 PM by Gary Copperstone

Hi Larry, According to my Oliver service manuals my 1750 would use a USX-44 Carb and a 1850 would have a USX-37. I bought a USX-32-1 in an Antique Mall. What tractor would use this Carb be used on? One difference I see between the 44 & the 32-1 is the 32-1 has a Pump Discharge Jet and the 44 does not. Are the Jet sizes different in these various USX Carbs for different engines or what other differences are there. How do you think the 32-1 would perform on my 1750? Thanks Larry-Have a GOOD ONE!!!! Gary

Re(1): Marvel Schebler Carburetors

IP: 67.142.130.16 Posted on May 28, 2006 at 10:36:13 AM by Jason Epperson

My 1800 C has a 32-1 USX carb on it. I think it would work fine on a 1750. Jason

Re(2): Marvel Schebler Carburetors

IP: 67.2.249.140 Posted on May 28, 2006 at 09:55:38 PM by Larry Harsin

An 1800 B or C uses the 32-1 USX carb. Like Jason, I think it would work fine on a 1750. Larry


pto 550 1963

IP: 68.159.168.128 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 08:59:09 PM by ken jones

I believe I have bought a 1963 550 127851-519 45-0595. There is a round thing under the right side of the seat that has a splined shaft in the center of it, there is a simular thing on the left side. I thought maybe this had something to do with the brakes. There is a plate over the back where I thought the pto shaft should be. Is the thing under the seat the pto or is there not one and what do I have to do to make it work so i can bush hog with it? I paid $600.00 for the tractor. It runs smooth but smokes but it is a diesel. Thanks for any help. This is my second tractor. Last year I bought a John Deere. It is about the same size as my 550. Please help. Ken

Re(1): pto 550 1963

IP: 67.2.249.140 Posted on May 28, 2006 at 09:52:26 PM by Larry Harsin

The PTO shaft should be at the bottom in the rear. It sounds like you have a plate over it, which means you don't have a PTO. You should check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Smittytractor@aol.com for a PTO assembly. Larry

Re(2): pto 550 1963

IP: 68.159.168.128 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 07:37:30 PM by ken jones

Thanks, Larry. I have spoken with Tom and also ordered manuals and a build card. I tried to explain to Tom about the splined shaft under the seat he said there should be a cover over the shaft or a plug and that the 550 didn't have this. That someone probably took this off a 55 and put it on the 550, but he did not know what it would be used for. I thank you for your help. Ken


Oliver Super 55 - 550

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 07:52:40 PM by Larry Kruse

Does a 550 take the same front crankshaft pulley as the Super 55? Mine has a dime size chip out of the one rim. Larry Kruse

Re(1): Oliver Super 55 - 550

IP: 67.2.248.109 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 08:14:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Not all of them. The later 550 uses a lip type front seal, and therefore uses a different pulley. If you need one, I have one. There should be a number somewhere on that pulley, like K370A, for instance. Email me with that number if you want one. Larry


Hard Starting

IP: 70.106.162.35 Posted on May 26, 2006 at 04:43:27 PM by Matt Kane

I have one last question. On my super 55 I had rebuilt, when I start it, It starts hard. I have to use the preheater system to start it. Then it smokes white like hell till warm. Idles find, when hot doesnt smoke a lick. Do you think the timing can be changed on the injection pump to slow the smoke, and have it start better?? If so is it a hard job? And how do I time it different? Thanks, Matt

Re(1): Hard Starting

IP: 67.2.248.204 Posted on May 26, 2006 at 06:57:52 PM by Larry Harsin

First of all, I would time it according to the specs in the Shop Manual. You can try backing the smoke screw off on the back of the injection pump. Did you use 3 1/2" pistons? If you did, 3 5/8" might have helped on the starting, as that would cause it to have more compression. This is just a couple of thoughts I have. Larry

Re(2): Hard Starting

IP: 70.106.162.35 Posted on May 26, 2006 at 08:24:09 PM by Matt Kane

It was rebuilt with 3 3/4" pistons. I will look in the manual. I didnt have the head worked because they said it looked fine so nothing was done with the valves. Matt

Re(3): Hard Starting

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 05:23:48 AM by Larry Harsin With those big pistons, I don't know what you will find. Larry


welding cable

IP: 70.106.191.72 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 07:48:04 PM by Matt Kane

Is there a difference between welding cable, and battery cable. Could it affect starting a diesel?? Matt

Re(1): welding cable

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 09:14:48 PM by Larry Harsin

The welding cable doesn't have quite as tough an insulation on it, but it should work fine. I don't think it would affect the starting. Larry

Re(2): welding cable

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on May 25, 2006 at 09:09:46 PM by j.ulmer

The gauge of the wires in the welding cable are probably finer (for flexibility) As a result corrosion at the terminal from battery acid will work on them faster. They do carry lots of juice for good starting, but the secret shared with me by a military motor pool mastersargeant who opened his own shop after retirement were: 1. Silver solder your ends onto the cable...do not clamp. 2. Seal the insulation to the terminal end with that liquid tool grip stuff (like you dip pliers handles into) That keeps acid from entering the matrix between the little wires and going up into the wire bundle causing copper cancer. He showed me how and I''ve replaced fabricated cables which have been used for 10 to 15 years without failure. Good luck!! Jerry


1550 head

IP: 67.138.8.223 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 04:48:08 PM by shad

i have replaced the head on my 1550 that had a 186402 head with 186402k head the k head has an extra water port in front of the air intake manifold at the front of the head can i just plug this or does it have another purpose any info would be appreciated thanks shad

Re(1): 1550 head

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 09:12:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure, but I think the head gasket will take care of it so that you don't have to plug it. Larry


4-24 digger

IP: 63.241.182.3 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 08:56:14 AM by ron pritchett

does anyone know where i can get any info on a oliver 4-24 digger.photo manual etc.

Re(1): 4-24 digger

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 09:06:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry


1850 perkins

IP: 144.92.86.203 Posted on May 23, 2006 at 11:37:13 AM by mark

larry: My chain on the trans fell off this weekend during field work and because of this the speedometer does not work. I checked the manuel and it said a grease fitting exists around my battery box which it does not. Then I found a cable goes down to the bottom of the tractor right below the chain. Is this the fitting any ideas? also my fuel guage no longer works it moves about a 1/16 inch when I turn the key when the tank is full. Mark

Re(1): 1850 perkins

IP: 67.2.249.156 Posted on May 23, 2006 at 06:00:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That cable that goes down is the fitting. The float in your fuel tank may be filled with fuel. Take the sending unit out of the tank and either get a new float or drain that one out and sodder the hole if that is what it is. Larry

Re(2): 1850 perkins

IP: 144.92.86.203 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 09:59:07 AM by mark

How do you remove this fitting? it does not look like a swaklock. It is round. Mark

Re(3): 1850 perkins

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 09:05:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Just use a pair of pliers to unscrew it. Larry


water in oliver 770 hydrolic system

IP: 12.47.224.7 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 04:56:17 PM by Aaron Kowalski

How do I drain and flush the hydrolic system? The tractor is a 770 late 50's early 60's and what type of fluid do I replace it with? Aaron

Re(1): water in oliver 770 hydrolic system

IP: 67.2.249.214 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 05:36:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I just plug a hydraulic hose into one of the hydraulic couplers, start the engine and let it pump the oil out of the unit. Then change the hydraulic filter (for new) and refill the unit with oil. I like a med-weight non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry


Oliver 77 valve adjustment

IP: 66.190.137.166 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 04:01:13 PM by John

I need to adjust the valves on a 77 gas. I have the firing order and valve gaps but the manual i have does not show or tell of a sequence on how to do it. Can you please explain it to me? Thanks, John

Re(1): Oliver 77 valve adjustment

IP: 67.2.249.214 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 05:32:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Start with #1 cylinder first. When you are trying to find TDC #1 cylinder, watch the valves on #6 cylinder. When the exhaust closes and the intake just starts to open, you are on TDC #1 cylinder. Adjust the valves on #1 cylinder, then turn the engine 1/3 of a revolution and you'll be ready to set #5 cylinder. Turn it another 1/3 of a revolution and set #3 cylinder and proceed through the firing order in the same fashion to finish. Larry


Oliver 1800

IP: 63.170.168.57 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 02:56:56 AM by Todd

I have an Oliver 1800 and wondered if there is a float position on my hydraulic levers for the remotes? I need to use float on my single action cylinder on my haybine but only have power up and power down. Todd

Re(1): Oliver 1800

IP: 67.2.249.214 Posted on May 22, 2006 at 05:26:28 PM by Larry Harsin

No. There is no float position. You may have to plumb into the "Power Beyond" port and use an external valve with a float position. Call me if you have further questions about this. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1800

IP: 205.245.254.187 Posted on May 31, 2006 at 09:59:10 AM by Rexalot

What model of haybine? The haybines I'm familiar with should not be supported by the lift cylinder when at cutting height. It should be supported by the skid shoes. Spring tension on the rear springs sets the amount of float in the cutting bar.


Oliver 03H Crawler tractor

IP: 58.167.32.181 Posted on May 20, 2006 at 03:19:58 AM by Glenn Osborne

I am thinking of purchasing the above tractor and it has been fitted with a bulldozer blade and has 3 point linkage. It has a broken gear shifter and I would like any information regarding the broken gear shifter. If you can help it would be appreciated. thankyou, Glenn

Re(1): Oliver 03H Crawler tractor

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on May 20, 2006 at 05:29:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman at Zimmerman Cletrac. Phone 717-738-2573 Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry


4 wheel drive oliver

IP: 65.183.70.254 Posted on May 18, 2006 at 10:08:52 PM by Mat Rice

I am having the worst time finding info and parts for our oliver tractor. I was told it was a rare model. Its a 3 cyclinder diesel 4 wheel drive. I thought the model was a 625 but no one can come up with parts for me and say there is no 625 model. Any help out there on what I am dealing with. Thanks, Mat

Re(1): 4 wheel drive oliver

IP: 67.2.248.184 Posted on May 19, 2006 at 05:24:36 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably a 1250A Oliver Utility tractor manufactured in Italy by Fiat. They are listed as being built from 1969 to 1971, The beginning serial number was 305985 in 1969. The ending serial number was 317338 in 1971. Check and see if your serial number fits in there. For parts, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First, website: Agpartsfirst.com or Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557 or check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

Re(2): 4 wheel drive oliver

IP: 65.183.70.254 Posted on May 23, 2006 at 00:28:26 AM by Mat Rice

Thank you soo much larry. Been a battle to get info on this, and a lotta stuff on the tractor is in Italian. would this pull a 3 bottom plow with out hurting my tractor? Thanks again. Mat

Re(3): 4 wheel drive oliver

IP: 67.2.242.107 Posted on May 24, 2006 at 05:23:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will handle a 3 bottom mounted plow. Larry


Row crop 70 weight

IP: 71.35.31.233 Posted on May 18, 2006 at 12:00:33 PM by Roger

Larry, could you tell me what a 1946 row crop 70s weight? Also I found a parts tractor that says HART-PARR on the radiator houseing. What year do you think that would be. It has a 70 on the frame? thanks. Roger

Re(1): Row crop 70 weight

IP: 67.2.248.184 Posted on May 19, 2006 at 05:15:22 AM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 70 RC weighed approx. 3000 lbs. The Hart-Parr 70's were built from 1935 into 1937. Larry


repower 1955

IP: 204.152.63.202 Posted on May 14, 2006 at 07:27:41 PM by Jeff

I want to repower a 1955 with a ford 6.6 liter engine. It is a Cummins hybred. Will I have problems bolting up to the bell housing? Jeff

Re(1): repower 1955

IP: 4.249.204.93 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 10:28:50 AM by Larry from md

Yes cummins has adapters to bolt up the 1850 or 2-105 bell houseing but not the 1955.Most people have to change lots of parts to make it work. Larry from MD

Re(2): repower 1955

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:35:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know as I havn't tried to do this. Larry


One way hydralics

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on May 14, 2006 at 07:40:44 AM by Jeremy Bailiff

Do I have to do anything special to run a one hose hydralic on my 1600 to make it work right? Jeremy

Re(1): One way hydralics

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:32:44 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 adjustments that have to be made. They are covered in the Operator's Manual. One is the by-pass valve by your right heel, when you are sitting on the tractor. It is a 1/2" fine thread bolt backed out 3 turns. The other adjustment is a by-pass valve under the seat on the right side, that must be backed out 2 to 3 turns. This is the one that is the hardest to get at. Larry


Super 55

IP: 70.105.108.4 Posted on May 13, 2006 at 08:22:15 PM by Matt Kane

I just took my tractor out for the first time tonight to load a brush hog. Got everything hooked up and the 3 point wont lift. Now when there is no weight on the arms they lift and hold with my weight, 140 pounds. What can I do or look for? Is there a filter? i hope its not the pump. The service manual doesnt take me far. Matt

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:27:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there is a filter. On the earlier S55, it is on the left side of the unit, beneath the seat. On the later S55's, it is on the front center of the unit. This one is a casting that can be unscrewed and the element is inside. I would put in new fluid and change the filter. If this doesn't do the trick, you may be faced with rebuilding a pump. Good Luck!! Larry


Super 77 Diesel

IP: 69.71.41.244 Posted on May 13, 2006 at 07:10:57 PM by Bob Elliott

Took off the exhaust manifold as you suggested to check for water or smoke coming out a specific cylinder. Sure enough cylinder #4 was puffing smoke.Pulled off the head and the gasket is definitely out between four and five. I can't see any cracks in the head or the sleeves and actually can still see a good cross-hatch on the sleeves and little or no cylinder ridge at the top. My question this time is concerning cracks in the head over each of the injector holes. Is this common and is it something to be concerned about? If not I believe I'm going to clean things up a bit, throw in a head gasket and get her runnin? Thanks for any info you can share. One more thing, when it is cold it really runs rough until warmed up, would it not be a good time to have the injectors cleaned up and tested? Thanks Again, Bob Elliott

Re(1): Super 77 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:23:51 PM by Larry Harsin I'd definitely check the injectors. I would also take the head to a machinist and have it checked and machined enough to straighten it if it needs it. Also, check the power cells and make sure they aren't plugged. Clean them if necessary. I have found several of them plugged on tractors lately. Larry


Gasket makers

IP: 207.91.2.202 Posted on May 13, 2006 at 06:23:03 AM by Greg Mueller

Larry, I am in the process of fixing oil leaks on my Oliver 88. I have oil leaks by the valve cover and around each rear axle where the axle bolts on to the transmission housing. Since you are in the business of restoration, what is the best way to fix the leaks so they don't come back? Do you use cork gaskets and a good sealant or do you use a certain silicone gasket maker? Any info would be appreciated. Greg

Re(1): Gasket makers

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:16:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I just install a new valve cover gasket on the valve cover - made of rubberized cork. Part number: 101796A Usually the leaks on the axle are because the bolts are loose. I just tighten them up. Make sure the oil level in the rear end isn't too high, also. Originally there was a gasket at that point and if you have to use one, the silicone gasket maker works just fine. Larry


770 paint

IP: 167.142.11.237 Posted on May 12, 2006 at 08:42:33 PM by mike

just wondering if they made the 770's in mist green

Re(1): 770 paint

IP: 67.2.249.57 Posted on May 15, 2006 at 11:12:32 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They didn't. Larry


1600 hydralics

IP: 63.163.137.171 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 06:36:09 PM by MIKE SCHUPPE

Larry I have a 1963 1600 I recently changed the hydralic fluid and filter. I used 134 ford oil to refill. Now my 3 point won't lift my 8' blade unless I have tractor at full throttle or if oil is cold in the morning. The remotes seem ok , better over 1200 RPM. Never had any problems prior to this. Is this oil to light? Would 20w engine oil help in our arid climate? Thank you in advance. Mike

Re(1): 1600 hydralics

IP: 67.2.249.109 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 10:54:16 PM by Larry Harsin

You can try the heavier oil. But first, run your engine 2/3 throttle and wiggle the remote levers back and forth for a few seconds. I suspect you may have a sticking servo regulator in your servo valve. Larry


head bolts

IP: 12.108.194.82 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 05:58:31 AM by Lonnie Novotne

Does any one have any good used head bolts for a 283 2part head. Local agco wants $38 per bolt. Thanks. Lonnie

Re(1): head bolts

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 03:28:12 PM by CEB

There's no such thing as good used head bolts. I'm not sure what you mean by a "2 piece head". I thought the 283 Waukesha only came with one head. Is this some type of industrial engine you're talking about? Maybe Larry could advise you differently? Anyway, I wouldn't reuse head bolts. As far as I know, they are just grade 8 -9/16" bolts about six inches long if I remember right. You can get them at just about any hardware store for cheap. If they don't have them in stock, they can order them. Now the rod bolts for a 283 -well that's a whole different story. CEB

Re(2): head bolts

IP: 207.68.211.32 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 05:41:47 PM by Lonnie Novotne

Its a diesel and the head has a top plate with a gasket like a sandwich. Its a rare head with not many around. As for the bolts I need around 3. Lonnie

Re(3): head bolts

IP: 67.2.249.109 Posted on May 10, 2006 at 10:50:50 PM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, they are a standard course thread bolt. Can you measure yours and tell me what the length is and I will see if I have some. If I have any, they would be used ones. Larry


Unleaded Fuel

IP: 71.143.33.227 Posted on May 9, 2006 at 05:30:19 PM by Mark

I have a 1958 S55 that runs great. I was wondering if the unleaded fuel we use today is hard on the valves since the engine was designed to run on leaded fuel? If so, should I be using an additive? Thanks for your help, Mark

Re(1): Unleaded Fuel

IP: 67.2.248.81 Posted on May 9, 2006 at 09:10:27 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is being worked hard, you might want to use a lead additive. But if it isn't being used hard, I doubt if it would be a problem. You could ask your fuel supplier and see what he says. Larry

Re(2): Unleaded Fuel

IP: 205.188.117.68 Posted on May 12, 2006 at 08:57:40 PM by Don-Wi

In my opinion, the lead additive is just another expense. If you want you can have hardened seats put in and if you need new valves, go with LP if you can because they hold up to heat much better. I tore apart the engine in my grandpa's 1600 a few years ago and 2 exhaust valves were burnt(3 & 4). It was worked extremely hard on the blower when it did run ok, and after a while it wouldn't even pull itself around and was parked for a year or 2. When I had the head rebuilt, I had new LP exhaust valves, the intakes were ok just ground, new hardned seats, new springs and guides installed. Should be fine to run it ok today's gas now. Not sure how much wear can actually be blamed on the gas, but it was worked hard. If you only put 20-50 hours on a year, I wouldn't worry about it. Also if the engine was ever rebuilt, it probably has hard seats installed already. Donovan from Wisconsin


Radiator for 1800 Oliver

IP: 12.162.183.143 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 11:58:25 AM by Anthony Carnes

I am looking for a radiator for an 1800 Oliver. Does anyone know where I can find one at a reasonable price? Anthony

Re(1): Radiator for 1800 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.3 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 10:03:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Larry, Neither had a radiator for an 1800. Do you know of any other place to look or call?

Re(3): Radiator for 1800 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.231 Posted on May 27, 2006 at 05:33:15 AM by Larry Harsin Call different salvage yards. Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304, Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909, Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934, Smittytractor@aol.com, Meyer's Tractor Salvage 605-225-0185, Pete's Tractor Salvage 800-541-7383, Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. These should help. Larry


Char-Lynn PS Paint Colors

IP: 65.172.9.221 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 11:30:29 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

I am restoring a '54 Super 88 Diesel with Char-Lynn Power Steering. I want to restore it to original condition. Does anyone know colors/paint codes for the pump, fluid reservoir, and power steering motor on the steering shaft? The motor on the steering shaft appears blue and rest is rusty and I can"t make out a paint color. Or should I just paint them green with the rest of tractor? Jim

Re(1): Char-Lynn PS Paint Colors

IP: 67.2.242.3 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 10:01:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd probably just paint them green. But in my memory, some of the parts were unpainted. I remember the reservoir was black, but some of the mountings and the pump were unpainted. I believe the little torque motor was red. I have a new one out here, and it is blue. Larry


Super 77

IP: 66.103.177.220 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 09:54:09 AM by Bob Elliott

Larry, I have been using my Super 77 Diesel all spring with no problems. Saturday when I started it, it immediately started to push out water. I opened the radiator cap and lots of bubbles in the flow of water. Is it common for a head gasket to does this, or is it common for a more serious cracked head or block. Any suggestions on how to narrow down what it might be before dis-assembly. Also if it sounds like a head gasket to you are the gaskets available throught NAPA as good as OEM parts. Thanks, Bob Elliott

Re(1): Super 77

IP: 67.2.242.3 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 09:48:04 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be the head gasket, or it could be something else. If it isn't the head gasket, it could be a crack in the cylinder head, or it could be a cracked cylinder sleeve. Before you tear it down, I would reccommend that you remove the exhaust manifold and start the engine and see if you can observe one of the cylinders having a different exhaust - like smoking or antifreeze coming out of it etc. This will give you a better chance at knowing which cylinder is causing the problem. I think the quality of the gaskets at NAPA is fine. Larry


super 88 info

IP: 24.26.156.123 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 08:13:02 AM by Dean Fagan

We have an Oliver Super 88 diesel with a wide front end. Can you help me to find pictures or information about this tractor so that we may properly restore it to it's original condition. Currently the tractor is painted all green with the exception of the front grill is yellow. The wheels are green but I can see a dull red color underneath the chipping paint. Are there gauges available for the tractor or any other tractor parts? What about owners manuals? The tractor seems to be in excellent mechanical condition and runs very soundly? Can you determine the yearby the serial number? The serial number on the tractor is # 37 284 - 801 and there is another number above that on the plaque which is #18 - 0041 Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Dean

Re(1): super 88 info

IP: 65.172.9.221 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 11:27:29 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

According to the serial number, it is a 1956. On the Super Series and your tractor, Oliver used all meadow green on the tractors (including the wheels) expect for yellow grille from 1954 through 1956. In 1957, they switched to red wheels. Customers didnt like the green wheels and that was why Oliver switched back toread (they originally did the green wheels to save money). Some people and some Oliver dealers painted the wheels red when they got the tractors from the plant before they where sold to customers. But your tractor should have rolled off the line in Charles City with green wheels. Gauges and most parts are available from Korves Oliver at www.korvesoliver.com. Larry also has some parts available, so you just have to call him to find out what he has. Jim

Re(2): super 88 info

IP: 67.2.242.3 Posted on May 8, 2006 at 09:57:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Jim Fitzgerald has answered your questions correctly. You can get Meadow Green paint from an AGCO Dealer. If you don't have a Dealer, you can get it from NAPA. Yellow is 99L11611 Meadow Green is 99L3751. You can email the Floyd Co. Historical Society for manuals: fchs@fiai.net or call them and use your credit card: 641-228-1099. Larry


Oliver 550 thrust bearing

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 6, 2006 at 09:01:40 PM by Larry Kruse

Another question - If I have .020" endplay instead of .009, what will this do to my engine? With a feeler guage, I measured .020 end clearance between the bearing and the crank. The IT manual said it should be .004 -.009. I bought a new bearing set and there is not much difference. The crank has been ground .010 and all of the bearing clearance tap show those to be in specifications. Thanks, Larry.

Re(1): Oliver 550 thrust bearing

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on May 7, 2006 at 07:52:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You can't have too much end clearance or the rods will cause the pistons to bind in the cylinders. I would check and make sure there is still ample clearance where the rods go on the pins in the pistons. If so, I would be inclined to go ahead and run the tractor. Larry


Hole in gas tank

IP: 216.190.254.53 Posted on May 6, 2006 at 06:27:46 PM by David

I have a hole in the gas tank of my Oliver 550. It is just above the drain plug next to the sediment bowl. I should be able to epoxy the hole, but I also see that the sediment drain area is full of sludge and needs to be cleaned out. Can I clean the tank from the fill point? How do I get the sludge out? I cannot loosen the drain plug. David

Re(1): Hole in gas tank

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on May 6, 2006 at 08:30:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I would take it to a radiator shop and have him repair it. When they get the sludge out, it will probably have a few other holes in there. Larry


Oliver 550 crankshaft thrust bearing

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 09:09:12 PM by Larry Kruse

Working on restoration of a 550 gas. Is there an extra wide thrust bearing you can buy to take up the extra end play on the crank shaft? With a feeler guage, I measured .020 end clearance between the bearing and the crank. The IT manual said it should be .004 -.009. I bought a new bearing set and there is not much difference. The crank has been ground .010 and all of the bearing clearance tap show those to be in specifications. Thanks, Larry.

Re(1): Oliver 550 crankshaft thrust bearing

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 09:38:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not aware of an extra wide bearing. Check with your machine shop and see if they know of anything. Sometimes they weld them up and remachine them or replace the crank. Larry


Oliver 415 mower questions

IP: 207.91.2.226 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 08:22:30 PM by Greg Mueller

Larry, Not sure how much work you have done on Oliver mowers but I thought I would give it a shot. I have bought a Oliver 415 pull type sickle mower and getting it into working condition. I have both the operator and parts manual and cannot find anywhere the bore and stroke of the hydraulic cylinder used to lift the cutter bar. Any idea of a size? Also, do you know of another manufacture that used the same pitman bar as the Oliver 415? AGCO wants $75 for the wood bar, most other companies charge between $15 -25 for the same type of bar. Or do you know of another company that handles haying repair parts for Oliver mowers? Any info would be appreciated. Greg

Re(1): Oliver 415 mower questions

IP: 205.188.116.66 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 09:04:09 PM by Jeremy Bailiff

I have the same mower, and if it would save some, i could get you a cardboard drawing of the holes to drill out on a blank pitman stick Jeremy

Re(2): Oliver 415 mower questions

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 09:32:35 PM by Larry Harsin

That mower is a mower that Oliver got when they merged with ####shutt. So it is a ####shutt design. I think it just used a standard 8" lift cylinder, 3" bore. For a pitman stick, check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry


Hydraulics

IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 10:49:01 AM by Ed

Larry, I have an 1850. The hydrolic pressure at the auxiliary is very low at idle and around 500 lb. at half throttle, and 1000 lb. at three quarter to full throttle. Any suggestions? Ed

Re(1): Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on May 4, 2006 at 09:28:46 PM by Larry Harsin

From what you describe, I would guess that your pump is getting weak. I just replace them when they get weak. Larry


Oliver 1850

IP: 216.166.159.184 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 04:11:33 PM by Dennis Bernard

I recently changed out the hyraulic fluid from the main unit under the seat. When I powered the tractor back up it would only steer to the right (air locked). I then took the hose off of the pump, and when fluid did come out it was a small stream even at full throttle. Hooked it back up, and it would steer for awhile, and the lock up again, could only steer to the right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Dennis

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 10:13:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a regulator spool that is sticking in the flow divider. Did you change the hydraulic filter? What kind of fluid did you put back into the hydraulic unit? It should be like 10 or 10w20 engine oil or a non-foaming hydraulic fluid. I don't know, this is a bit of a puzzler. Larry


Side Curtains - Oliver 70

IP: 67.53.133.81 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 10:09:07 AM by Dick Calland

I have a 1941 Oliver 70 row crop. It was (apparently) converted with the Oliver package to provide distributor ignition. I have the original right side engine curtain and repro (Lynch) side curtains for the left side and clutch covers. The right side engine curtain will not close due to the distributor. Short of cutting a (big) hole in the right side curtain - are there any other solutions ? Dick

Re(1): Side Curtains - Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 10:08:40 PM by Larry Harsin

You can loosen the 2 mounting bolts where the distributor attaches to the engine governor and simply tip the top of the distributor toward the engine and then tighten the bolts. Then you will have to adjust the engine timing by loosening the two 3/8" cap screws that hold the distributor to the distributor drive housing. Adjust the timing by rotating the distributor slightly to compensate for moving the top of the distributor in. This should help so that you can close the side curtain. Larry


Polarization of Generator

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 09:27:05 PM by J. Ulmer

Hey folks: Hi! I ve got a problem with a generator/regulator on something yellow (like an early 60's I-H Payloader) with a 6-cyl gas engine. We have had everything running okay until this winter when my hand took battery off to charge after being parked on railroad a couple of months (picking up ballast...not waiting for train!!) NOW amp meter shows discharge when running...faster more discharge and lights cause ampmeter to show LESS discharge. Thought polarity might be reversed, but volt meter showed + and - correct off battery. Various sources consulted as to proper procedure (been over thirty years for me) and came to conclusion to quickly arc BATT to Field. Still charging (via meter backwards) Volt meter battery shows 13.2 v, field 9-12 v.(depending on rpms) but running rpm up sends battery voltage to over 16 (all my scale shows). Looking at internet sites confused me more as some said Batt to Field, some said Batt to A(rmature) and some said Batt to G(enerator) HELP!! I don't know if I fried regulator (it looks unfried inside)or what and I don't know where to back up to and restart. The old battery had been fried (from high gen. voltage output) and I got a new one on. Running problems (missing) cured by replacing burnt points and new plugs and starting great, But amp meter showing backward and too high volts. I know its not an oliver, but after consulting the NAPA and CarQuest stores and their in house shops (who USED to work on irrigation engines and stuff before alternators) I'm going gray and bald faster than ever. I scrolled through the archives till my other eye went blind so I'm asking nicely...Thanks, Jerry

Re(1): Polarization of Generator

IP: 67.2.249.30 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 10:58:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Arc it from the battery terminal to the armature terminal. Arcing to the field terminal will fry it. Is there a chance that you battery is charged up backwards? You might try a different battery. Larry

Re(2): Polarization of Generator

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 05:37:17 AM by Jerry

Thanks Chief! The battery polarity checks right (old and new battery), butI bet I cooked regulator (ie "F" is for "FRY") I'll get another and re try it. Do you do polarization with generator running or before you start motor (after disconnecting and rehooking regulator or generator?) Jerry

Re(3): Polarization of Generator

IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 10:01:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I do it before I start the engine. Larry


1650 3 point hitch

IP: 65.78.215.49 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 06:10:15 PM by Chet Risser

I HAVE A 1650 GAS THE 3 POINT HITCH HASNT BEEN USED FOR A WHILE THE 3 POINT HITCH WILL NOT RAISE UP BUT THE 2 REMOTES WORK FINE. ANY THING EASY TO DO OR TRY. CHET

Re(1): 1650 3 point hitch

IP: 67.2.248.126 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 08:25:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the bypass valve screw is turned in. This is the one by your right heel. If it is turned in, try running the engine at 2/3 throttle and wiggling the remote levers back and forth for a few seconds. Larry


1650 diesel

IP: 4.245.46.63 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 01:19:31 AM by Wayne

Larry,i have a 1650 diesel that is hard to start.it blows white smoke till it fires up,then runs fine with no smoke(black smoke under a load).do i need an overhaual,or maybe just the injectors cleaned?thanks,Wayne

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on May 1, 2006 at 05:37:09 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1650's are noted for slow starting. It would probably be good to have the injectors checked and fixed as needed, but don't expect this to cure all of your problems. If the engine is performing satisfactorily and has good oil pressure, I would try to get along with less than perfect starting. Also, the starter and the batteries have to be in excellent condition. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 207.231.118.105 Posted on May 2, 2006 at 03:26:32 AM by corre k

I had problems with mine to a local shop told me a 1655 starter turns faster then a stock 1650 starter I changed and it starts a lot faster even in the cold with a little preheat It is a little close fit but a big change. Corre k

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