May thru Mid-June, 2005 "Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Archive

"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - May thru Mid-June, 2005 Archives

1850 carb

IP: 65.54.155.54 Posted on June 20, 2005 at 10:07:36 PM by Johnnie T

I have a new Zenith carb. on a recent overhauled eng, runs great hard on gas when working, but thats ok pulls great in this S Texas heat. Question I have is when I stop and go back the next day there is a small amount of gas between intake manifold and carb.,on the bolts that hold the two together, hope this makes sense to U. Thanks in advance really appreciate Your site.

Re(1): 1850 carb

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:56:35 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your float needle may be leaking. I would take it apart and clean it. Make sure that the sediment bowl has a good screen in it. Also, you may want to consider an in-line fuel filter available at NAPA. Until you get this corrected, I would reccommend shutting the fuel off when you are not using the tractor. Larry

Another hard steering 77

IP: 65.54.155.44

Posted on June 19, 2005 at 11:45:32 PM by Larry Nichols My 53 77RC has manual steering and steers like a power equipped unit with the pump shot. Finally have gotten tired of the workout I get every time I run it, I get enough of that from the railroad. As with another questioner I have narrowed it down to the box. Any adjustments to be made?

Re(1): Another hard steering 77

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 20, 2005 at 09:00:30 AM by Ron

No. Adjustment screws are used to take up the slack in steering boxes as they wear. That is, the front end tends to wander from slack and the adjustment corrects the wander as well as keeps the box from wearing excessively due to too much play. If your tractor has always steered that way, that's how it is. If it suddenly became hard to steer, it's likely tie rods or low tire pressure. If you disconnect the tie rods and it's still hard to steer, the box is damaged and will likely need replacement.

Re(2): Another hard steering 77

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:48:15 AM by Larry Harsin

The gearbox has been discussed as you say. But a lot of the times it is one of the 3 U joints that are binding. I have been through this many times. Larry

Gearshift on Super 88

IP: 199.120.113.134 Posted on June 19, 2005 at 11:05:29 PM by Jim

On our Super 88 Diesel, the gearshift touches the dash while in 6th and R2. The tranny goes into both gears just fine. Last summer, we had the hydraulic pump rebuilt at an AGCO Dealer and once we got it back, we noticed thats when the gearshift touched the dash. Did something not get put back right after the pump was rebuilt? Any info would be helpful. Thanks.

Re(1): Gearshift on Super 88

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on June 20, 2005 at 11:42:05 PM by bradk

You didn't mention if all other gears engage properly (upper&lower quadrant)so i'll assume they do. Somehow,someway,the gearshift lever must have got bent as they're made of fairly soft metal~brad

Re(2): Gearshift on Super 88

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:44:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a feeling that the casting that holds the gear shift lever onto the hydraulic base plate may have gotten reversed. Larry

Re(3): Gearshift on Super 88

IP: 65.172.9.225 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 01:17:13 PM by Jim

Thanks Larry. The casting was reversed, so I switched it. Now it shifts like it normally did and does not hit the dash.

Power Steering Problems

IP: 69.72.82.235 Posted on June 19, 2005 at 08:51:45 PM by Kris Robbins

I am having problems with my 1650 diesel. Hydralic fluid runs right out of the top of the bowl where the big snap ring is on the power steering hydramotor. It also is very hard to steer. I tore it down and replaced the big O-ring and backup ring. I then put it back in the tractor and it still leaks very bad. So I took it apart again and the O-ring and backup ring are still fine. There is no gouges or grooves in the housing either where it seals. I checked my return lines and they were not clogged or kinked.I thought maybe there was too much pressure in the system causing it to leak so I checked pressure at the flow divider valve and it seemed to be normal. I don't know what else to do. I'm not sure if there is something wrong with my hydramotor or if it is something else. I can't find a rebuilt hydramoter anywhere. This is my main tractor on my farm and I need to get it back in working order. If you have any ideas or suggestions of what could be wrong with it, or where to find a rebuilt unit, it would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Kris Robbins windcrestfarm@pcspower.net

Re(1): Power Steering Problems

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:41:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. about this problem. I think you are going to have to get a different unit. 800-320-6224. Larry

Tough Steering on 77

IP: 69.221.228.122 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 02:49:33 PM by Myron Wernette

Larry, After restoring my Dad's 77, the manual steering which steered like it had ps, to a tractor which steers more like a Farmall!! I suspect that something happened when we jacked up the front (wide frontend) to paint the wheels and replace the greese caps on the tie-rods. The person helping me didn't have the jack positioned to put the weight of the tractor transfer to the jack via. the front end bar. Instead, the weight was partially on the steering spline that connects the tie rods to the steering worm steering gear. I have taken this steering gear apart to check for damage and none seems visible. I have tried the adjustment bolt, but to no avail. I unhooked the tie rods and it still steers tough which is so un-natural!!! What do I check next? Thanks.

Re(1): Tough Steering on 77

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 18, 2005 at 07:05:04 AM by Ron

Even if you can't see any damage it's likely that something got bent inside the box. It doesn't take much of a bend to bind the gears. You proved the problem is in the box when you removed the tie rods to narrow the problem down. You might want to get another box from a salvage yard.

Re(2): Tough Steering on 77

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:38:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Be certain that you don't have the adjustments too tight on the steering gear box. Also, be certain that the 3 universal joints are not binding. Those can cause lots of problems. Larry

Re(3): Tough Steering on 77

IP: 69.221.228.122 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 10:42:08 AM by Myron

Larry, The Universal Joints appear OK. I have tried adjust. the nut on top of the box after checking for grease in box and doing a visual insp. I see in the serv.manual it discusses an adj. nut on horizontal front end of box that is opposite from where the steering rod attaches. Could this cause the tougher steering? Your thoughts please?

Re(4): Tough Steering on 77

IP: 67.2.248.19 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 06:43:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think that is your problem. If you jacked on the output shaft of the steering box, you may have damaged something that you have not found yet. Larry

Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 69.10.102.80 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 01:01:27 AM by Tony in Arizona

I am looking at purchasing a Oliver 880 Diesel with Du-all loader and 3 point hitch/PTO. Loader worked fine after motor started with no issues. Engine did not look like it was burning oil and transmission shifted with no issues. PTO engaged smoothly and didnt see any major leaks. I went through the archives and didnt see any tips on what to look for when purchasing a model of this type. I will be using the vehical to maintain a 56 acre ranch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Tony in Arizona

Re(1): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 07:44:39 AM by Ron

I'm not aware of anything special but I'd do a more complete job of checking the tractor... fluids, allow to idle 20 minutes or more to check for overheating, check smoke patterns, drive in all gears and listen for noise, etc. Some people even hire a tractor mechanic to check it over. In any case, if you get it you'll want to change all fluids and filters and you'll need the manuals...

Re(2): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 69.10.102.80 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 09:36:09 AM by Tony

Thanks, the seller is in the process of changing all fluids and filters. He is also replacing any seals that were leaking on the unit. The gentleman selling the tractor has various models that he rebuilds and sells. I will definately get serial numbers and run it through the gauntlet after he is finished getting the unit ready. My biggest concern is not being able to find parts or waiting weeks to get something in as this will be a working tractor. He also has a farmall model but I steered towards the Oliver becase it was deisel. Thansk Again, Tony

Re(3): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 12:50:28 PM by Ron

The gentleman should be able to direct you to an AGCO dealer, hopefully nearby, for parts. If not, there are AGCO dealers that ship parts nationwide. There are salvage yards that part-out Olivers and ship nationwide. Some things, like starters, you can buy at NAPA. Well maintained, an Oliver can go a long time between needing parts.

Re(4): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 143.182.124.3 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 04:12:48 PM by Tony

Ron, I went back and took the serial number (84 768 824) and spec # (38-2616). I am glad to hear that parts are not an issue and I will ask the seller about local dealer ships. he looked up the year and said it was a 1960 vintage. I prefer the diesel engine but if an older diesel is more of a headache than gas then he has a farmall 540 model with a 1540 IH loader. Thanks for all the input.

Re(5): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:35:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to use your own good judgement on which tractor you think will work best. Parts availability is good for the 880 diesel. It sounds like the seller is willing to work with you. I would be inclined to purchase this tractor. Larry

high idle

IP: 69.66.180.42 Posted on June 16, 2005 at 04:56:32 PM by Mike

1951 oliver 77 row crop what can i do to get the idle lower.

Re(1): high idle

IP: 67.2.240.162 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:29:40 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing, you can change the length of the governor control rod on the side of the engine block. Look in your Operator's Manual. There is a procedure in there for making these governor adjustments. Larry

Cockshutt and Oliver

IP: 161.184.51.39 Posted on June 16, 2005 at 02:20:04 AM by Zoltan

Hello I believe that the Cockshutt 570 was the last model sold by Cockshutt that was built by them. I was just wondering if there was any design ideas shared by Oliver in any of the Cockshutt models? Can anyone recommend a Cockshutt site that is similar to this one? Thank you for any advice Zoltan

Re(1): Cockshutt and Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.170 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:05:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Oliver built tractors for Cockshutt, but I don't believe that their engineering departments were working together. I don't know of a Cockshutt website like this one. Larry

oliver 550 grille

IP: 70.35.132.46 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 08:17:21 AM by dave morris

restoring a 1959 550 gasser. would like to find a bar type grille.( near impossible feat in southern ohio). is there anyone making reproduction grilles for early 550s? any chance the grille from a770 /880 could be used? also would like to thank Larry for a well designed and useful site. helped me out alot on the 1550&1850 thanks again Dave

Re(1): oliver 550 grille

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 08:35:35 PM by Ron

Call Jeff Toll-Free# 800-626-8915. They may have one or locate one for you.

Re(2): oliver 550 grille

IP: 70.35.132.46 Posted on June 16, 2005 at 10:19:17 AM by dave morris

who is jeff and where is he located? thanks again , Dave

Re(3): oliver 550 grille

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 16, 2005 at 10:36:42 AM by Ron

His company is the largest Oliver salvage parts yard in the midwest; specifically they are in IL. If you have exhausted the yards in OH then you are going to have to look nationally. There are about a dozen yards that ship anywhere. He is very easy to deal with and always willing to help.

Re(4): oliver 550 grille

IP: 70.35.132.46 Posted on June 17, 2005 at 10:14:05 AM by dave morris

Thanks ! will give him a call. Dave

Re(5): oliver 550 grille

IP: 67.2.249.170 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 07:02:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Sorry to be slow in answering, we have been gone for a week. Other places you can check are: Tim Smith in Dalton OH Email: smittytractor@aol.com or Phone in the evenings 330-832-9792. Or you could check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. The grill from a 770 or 880 will not work. Larry

1600 - Water in fuel

IP: 70.20.227.41 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 08:08:13 AM by Mike Neary

We got a bad tank of fuel and had to drain water from the sediment bowl and the fuel filter. Do I need to perform any additional steps to remedy this problem? Should I add a can of DRY GAS to the diesel to soak up any remaining water? Thanks much for your help.

Re(1): 1600 - Water in fuel

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 08:59:34 AM by Ron

Best bet is to drain the entire tank, add a gallon of new fresh fuel, drain it, and then refill. That will do it. If you had actually tried to start it with the contaminated fuel, you'll have to bleed both the low and high sides of the system.

Re(2): 1600 - Water in fuel

IP: 67.2.249.170 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 06:57:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I would talk to my fuel supplier and follow his instructions. He should get the problem out of your storage tank. Then follow Ron's instructions on how to handle the tractor. Larry

1600 Charging system

IP: 70.20.227.41 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 07:50:41 AM by Mike Neary

How can I diagnose my charging system? I have used a voltmeter across the generator outputs, while it is running and fully wired, and I got about 1.6 volts. Could this be a bad regulator or is my generator shot? Can these generators be rebuilt with a new set of brushes? Thanks for any advice you can offer.

Re(1): 1600 Charging system

IP: 69.179.13.177 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 09:09:36 AM by Ron

It could be either. It could also be a failure to polarize the generator. And yes, generator brushes can be replaced. You can take both parts to any NAPA store and they will test them for you. They should also have replacement regulators and can have your generator rebuilt.

Re(2): 1600 Charging system

IP: 67.2.249.170 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 06:53:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't need to add anything to this. We have been gone for a week. Larry

timing

IP: 69.66.65.61 Posted on June 15, 2005 at 03:30:32 AM by mike smith

i have a 1951 oliver 77 row crop and i was wondering if you could tell me what the timing should be?

Re(1): timing

IP: 67.2.249.170 Posted on June 21, 2005 at 06:50:29 AM by Larry Harsin

With the engine running at slow idle, it should be just ahead of Top Dead Center with a timing light. Then with the engine running with the full governor speed, the ignition mark should line up in the hole. Larry

550 PTO

IP: 69.87.133.224 Posted on June 14, 2005 at 08:40:24 PM by Alan Wernette

Larry, My 550 pto has stopped working after I greased the pto clutch. I admit that I gave it 3 grease gun pumps and found out later that only one is suggested. It worked up until I greased it. It acts like it is seized up and when I try to move the pto clutch it makes a noise. I've never had a problem with the pto other than it never fully stopped running before this greasing. Did the extra grease force the clutch to seize itself up and if so can I easily fix it by removing the cover under the frame and reaching through this opening? Is there a way to check on this problem without seperating the tractor to get to the clutch? Thank you for any advice.

Re(1): 550 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.228 Posted on June 14, 2005 at 11:11:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I think there is more wrong than excess grease. Do the adjustments on the clutch as stated in your Operator's Manual. If you can't get it to work, you may have to split the tractor. Larry

Paint codes

IP: 24.196.118.227 Posted on June 14, 2005 at 12:46:02 PM by Lynn Pollesch

What is the proper paint code's for Oliver 880 white and green. Also Oliver 1600

Re(1): Paint codes

IP: 67.2.249.228 Posted on June 14, 2005 at 11:06:33 PM by Larry Harsin

The 880 is Meadow Green and Clover White. We find the best place (and cheapest) is your AGCO Dealer. If you have to match this, it is Martin Senour 99L-3751 for the green. For the Clover White it is PPG-DAR 46536. The 1600 is the same colors. Larry

Super 55 Carb kit

IP: 198.50.63.15 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 12:21:36 PM by Roy Fleming

Larry: where can i buy a carb rebuild kit for a 1955 super 55. The carb is a Marvel Schebler.

Re(1): Super 55 Carb kit

IP: 69.179.17.67 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 02:12:31 PM by Ron

Best bet is an AGCO dealer as you will get the OEM kit which contains all the parts. Some other kits don't.

Re(2): Super 55 Carb kit

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 11:41:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Super 55 year

IP: 198.50.63.15 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 06:39:07 AM by Roy Fleming

Larry, my Super 55 plate says specification no 15-0005 and serial no 30-416-518. is this a 1955 model.

Re(1): Super 55 year

IP: 67.2.248.251 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 07:01:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is a 1955. Larry

1650 Industrial SUCCESS!

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 12, 2005 at 07:59:15 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi guys... me again... the guy with the apparently failing reverse-o-torc. I tried to drain the fluid level, but simply couldn't get to the drain plug with the limited tools I've got... (as you may recall, it looked brand new anyway.) So I put on a new filter and checked the levels again.... now it was not only completely full, but a little over full. I started the tractor for a minute, and checked again.... bone dry. Refilled and repeated. Bone dry again! Ended up putting 4.5 quarts in the old boy. I used the beast for an hour or so tonight, and it was back to the way it was when I bought it. It goes backward smoothly and jerks at first, when I go forward... but at no time did it ever hesitate or slip. HOORAY! The 'jerk' is only when I first start moving forward... after that the power is smooth and continuous. It's like it "slams" into forward. You just can't slowly creep it forward easily. Now... I read in my shop manual that the converter check valve keeps the fluid from draining back into the resevoir when not in use.... mine is obviously draining.... could that valve account for the jerky forward start as well? Should I just change out that as well as the 2 valves on the opposite side? And finally, if I should change (or clean) them, how hard a job is it, and where can I buy new ones....

Re(1): 1650 Industrial SUCCESS!

IP: 69.179.17.67 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 06:31:48 AM by Ron

The unit is leaking externally so after some number of hours you are going to be right back where you were. If it's equipped with a cooler I'd start with it and the cooler lines. You'll need the Operator's Manual to learn how to correctly operate the unit.

Re(2): 1650 Industrial SUCCESS!

IP: 67.2.248.251 Posted on June 13, 2005 at 06:59:25 AM by Larry Harsin

If the thing is operating 1/2 way normal, I would leave it alone. Your engine idle speed may be too fast. Get it down around 700 and that may help with the jerking. Larry

1650

IP: 216.51.132.142 Posted on June 11, 2005 at 12:44:56 PM by Don

I have a 1650 and once in awhile the 3pt won't raise but it will go down and after a bit it usually works again. any ideas? thanks

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.248.125 Posted on June 12, 2005 at 08:01:43 AM by Larry Harsin

The regulator spool in the servo valve is sticking. I would reccommend that you change the hydraulic filter and possibly put in new hydraulic oil. Then try it. If that doesn't work, you will have to remove the servo valve and find what is causing the spool to stick. Larry

Re(2): 1650

IP: 216.51.132.142 Posted on June 14, 2005 at 07:27:56 AM by Don

Ok thanks much for the help Larry I appreciate it.

1940 Oliver 70 Paint Code

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on June 11, 2005 at 06:04:16 AM by Jerry

Hi Larry: Just looking to see what paint codes were for the 1940 Oliver 70. I was also wondering what the correct color for the grill and lettering under the grill. I have seen some white and some yellow. Any information would help.

Re(1): 1940 Oliver 70 Paint Code

IP: 67.2.248.125 Posted on June 12, 2005 at 07:58:43 AM by Larry Harsin

The green is Martin Senour 99L - 11511. The yellow for the grill and lettering under, is DuPont 029. The red for the wheels is Martin Senour 99L - 3752. Your paint dealer can match these codes. Larry

Super 77 High Idle

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on June 10, 2005 at 02:19:11 PM by Chuck

My '55 super 77 diesel does not seem to be running at high enough rpm. I recently checked the PTO rpm with a tach and it is only running about 415 rpm. Can I just adjust my idle up without doing anything more?

Re(1): Super 77 High Idle

IP: 67.2.248.125 Posted on June 12, 2005 at 07:53:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Just tighten the spring on the side of the injection pump. Larry

Cockshutt 1900

IP: 146.82.5.2 Posted on June 8, 2005 at 08:45:30 PM by brad

i would like to know the year and horsepower of my Cockshutt 1900 model# is 29-4264 and serial# is 133 668-942 and below this tag inside the cab is a stamped # 107314A is it normal to see some green paint under the original red-orange paint. it has a detroit diesel (4-53). would this tractor do good at tractor pulls

Re(1): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on June 8, 2005 at 11:01:26 PM by brad k

Hi Brad~ I feel like I could answer your questions as we have 2 1950s & 2 990s w/detroits. It appears that your model year is a 1963 series B w/PTO HP rating of just over 98. It's perfectly normal to show signs of green paint as these tractors are essentially Olivers under the red paint. As for pulling, these tractors normally dominate in heavier classes. The trick is to keep the engine wound as tight as possible as losing RPM causes power to drop dramatically so gear selection is critical. Hope this helps. Brad K.

Re(2): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 9, 2005 at 00:01:35 AM by J. Ulmer

The Detroit Diesel 4-53 (four cylinders of 53 cubic inch displacement) is a two stroke engine and as Brad pointed out must be kept wound up. Like a two-stroke motorcycle it has no lugging power when it pulls down. 212 cubic inches putting out a hundred horses is possible because it is burning twice as often per cylinder as a four stroke so its output is sort of like a 424 cubic inch 4-stroke engine. I have a 282 Hanco-k elevating scraper and they used the 1900 Oliver trans, rear end, and engine (entire drive line) for the propulsion. Early units used the Waukesha and R-3 models had the 4-53. I have pulled out of pits loaded in fourth gear with the detroit screaming, but if you let it fall down in rpm you will be shifting to first to crawl up the slope. Hope you have fun with yours like I do playing in the dirt with mine.

Re(3): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 67.2.242.77 Posted on June 9, 2005 at 07:04:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with both of these fine answers. Enjoy your tractor. Larry

1800 block

IP: 204.186.62.55 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 11:14:10 PM by doug

Larry, I have a guy that wants to sell me an 1800 gas engine complete minus the crank, well he has the crank but admits it needs replaced, I guess its been turned to many times, I'm not sure what block # it has, and is one better than the other, thanks.

Re(1): 1800 block

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 06:32:57 AM by Ron

If it came out of an "A" series, it's 265 ci, and "B" or "C" series, 283 ci. The only difference is bore. Otherwise they are identical Waukesha industrial engines. Unless he's giving you the engine, it's not worth what you'll pay for it. If he feels it's not worth rebuilding, I'll bet there's a reason. Any engine that's had the crank turned so many times it can't be placed back into service almost certainly it's worth rebuilding. Even if it were, have you checked into the price of a new crank? And the cost to rebuild?

Re(2): 1800 block

IP: 67.2.248.51 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 07:45:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Not necessarily more value. I would say that there is more demand for the later blocks that were used in the 1800 'B' and 'C' series. These had the 1 1/2" thrust verses the engine with the 3/4" thrust on the 'A' series. Larry

Re(1): 1800 block

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 06:32:57 AM by Ron

Re(2): 1800 block

IP: 67.2.248.51 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 07:45:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 03:12:54 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi... I've been posting on another thread about my 1650 that's doesn't go forward easily when hot. I ordered an operators manual, but got a shop manual instead. I've found the resevoir filler/dipstick, and the level is a hair over L. I'm hoping that could account for the problem. I would still like to drain the unit... Am I correct in assuming that the reverse-o-torc oil is separate from the transmission fluid oil, and that it should hold 2.5 gallons? There are alot of drain plugs under this thing!

Re(1): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 05:50:54 PM by Ron

Yes. Re(2): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 67.2.248.145 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 11:13:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the reverse-o-torque is separate from the tran. There should be a drain plug on the gear box itself and one in the torque converter. The flywheel will have to be turned to the one position that it will drain to drain it.

Re(3): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 06:48:14 AM by Mike Fraley

Okay... so I go out last night, and it appears I was mistaken... the dipstick shows full. The light was playing with me the first time, and the stick was a little discolored.... gimme a minute and I'll come up with another excuse... anyway, I took off the filter and looked at the oil that was in it. The oil and the filter appeared to be like new. Bright pink, no metal that I could see. I've only run it for maybe 5-10 hours total in the last year, so it looks like the previous owner may have tried the same thing.... looks like maybe I was taken here. The filter is a Fram PH16 Pro... looks identical to the kind that goes in my car. Question #1: Is that the type of filter that should be on here? I cut it open, and the filter media looked clean... a little discolored maybe, but not covered in gunk. I'm going to change out the filter and drain the oil this week anyway, but I'm starting to wonder about the parts value of this machine :( ...... Question #2: When I refill the resevoir, to I need to refill the torque converter somewhere else, or does it flow into the converter from the unit? Thanks.... you guys have been a HUGE help! Mike

Re(4): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 67.2.248.51 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 07:40:13 AM by Larry Harsin

1. Yes, it is a spin on type of filter. I don't know what the part number would be. 2. It should go into the converter out of the reservoir, I think. Run it a little and then recheck it. If it doesn't operate normally, there could possible a regulator valve with a sticking spool. Larry

Re(5): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 07:52:53 AM by Ron

They share the same 2.5 gallons. The filter may be correct. NAPA and Tractor Supply tend to have charts that can help you crossreference a filter from brand to brand but it's usually easier to get an overpriced but correct OEM filter from an AGCO dealer. However, after what you just reported, I'd say you're wasting your time. It might be worth a shot to swap ATF and filter but your point about parts value might be worth pursuing further.

Re(6): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 07:57:30 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi... thanks again for the help and sorry for asking so many questions, but this just occured to me. Should I be checking this with the unit hot, while running, like I do with the tranny in my car? Or will the reading be the same hot or cold? I've only checked it cold. After I replace the filter and fluid, I'll see how it runs and then figure out how to check those valves....

Re(7): Reverse-O-Torc, 1650 Industrial

IP: 67.2.242.27 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 09:09:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it will make that much difference. It will expand a little when it is warmed up. Larry

550 GAS ENGINE

IP: 206.74.182.6 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 00:23:33 AM by J. Mash

HELLO, HOW LONG SHOULD I RUN THE BREAK IN OIL IN MY NEW ENGINE? I HAVE AROUND 50 TO 55 HOURS ON IT NOW. I BUILT IT LAST JULY AND DID NOT PUT BUT ABOUT 10 HOURS ON IT OVER THE WINTER. THE OIL STILL LOOKS PRETTY CLEAN BUT IT HAS BEEN IN THERE ALMOST A YEAR.

Re(1): 550 GAS ENGINE

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 06:08:45 AM by Ron

The oil & filter should have replaced as soon as the rings seated; that is, as soon as it stopped using oil. That gets rid of any dirt/chips left over from assembly and initial run. Re(2): 550 GAS ENGINE

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 07:27:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd change it. Larry

Oliver 88 Standard

IP: 69.81.30.147 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 10:27:19 PM by Gary

I am considering an Oliver 88 Standard 1950 year but do not know if I can haul it. Does anyone know what the weight of an 88 Standard is?

Re(1): Oliver 88 Standard

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 07:24:38 AM by Larry Harsin

It is approx. 5000 lbs. Larry

1650 Hyrdra-Power Problem

IP: 65.172.9.118 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 06:31:55 PM by Jim Fitzgerald

Larry, Looked at a 1966 Oliver 1650 with a Perkins Diesel with the Hyrda-Power Drive that a guy had for sale. Overall was a prety good tractor but when we checked the Hydra-Power, it was 3 quarts low on fluid. It worked great in direct drive (high side), but when shifted to low side, the tractor just comes to a stop (like it was in nuetral). If you started from a stop in low side, it worked most of the time and would shift from low side to high side no problem. About half the time, though, it would just come to a stop while in low side. Any suggestions on what the problem is? Thanks. Jim

Re(1): 1650 Hyrdra-Power Problem

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 08:01:19 PM by Ron

Low fluid level will cause those symptoms but any owner who let it get 3 quarts low would not see one dollar of my money. It's leaking, he's too cheap to fix it, and running it like that just overheats the unit and will eventually cause it to fail. There are lots of nice 1650s for sale; ones you don't have to worry about an immdediate expensive repair.

Re(2): 1650 Hyrdra-Power Problem

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 07:22:13 AM by Larry Harsin

To start with, there were no 1650 diesels built with a Perkins engine. In the 50 series, it was only the 1850 that had the Perkins. As far as the hydra-power drive is concerned, the sprague clutch for the low side is out. It sounds like an overhaul of that unit is in order. Larry

Re(3): 1650 Hyrdra-Power Problem

IP: 65.172.9.222 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 01:55:03 AM by Jim

You are correct. It is an 1966 1850 with a Perkins, I typed it wrong. Thanks for info. Jim

Fluids/Quantities 550gas

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 10:34:59 PM by Tom RENKEN

My friend has a great 550 Oliver 1960 gas with a backhoe. We need to know the specified lube (GL4 or GL5 for the trans} and quantity for refill. A complete list of fluids would be great. Thanks ZapTR @ aol.com also JimLee @ STANS.net

Re(1): Fluids/Quantities 550gas

IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 02:18:32 PM by Larry Harsin

For the transmission, it takes 5 gal. I would use 80 - 90 GL 4 or GL 5 either one. The earlier Oprator's Manuals specified 10-30 motor oil with a special additive, which is no longer available. Therefore, I reccommend the above. The hydraulic system can use a 10 - 30 motor oil or a med. weight non-foaming hydraulic oil. The capacity is 9 qts. The engine capacity is 4 qts. plus 1 qt. for the filter. I would reccommend 10 - 30 engine oil. The radiator holds 3.5 gal. Larry

Sealing 1950T

IP: 208.248.108.176 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 08:02:20 PM by brian pa

I just finish a major over haul on the 1950t last fall. I replaced all the engine bearings and shims,the sleeves, pistons, rings, turbo, nozzles, and all gaskets. had the valves replaced and head checked, the block cleaned and checked. also had the pump rebuilt and checked twice. balanced the engine. the problem I have is sealing the engine up as far as the combustion chamber ie. seating the rings. I have all ready replaced all of them once due to them spinning on the pistons. the tractor has alot of power but it still smokes. the smoke goes away under load. I have tried moving the timing but it only runs worse. I just pulled the exhaust manifold off and the runners are wet on the first four. when I put the rings on I used the 90 from wrist pin then 180 method. I have left the turbo on both times for break in. I filled the turbo with lucas oil additive before startup. I am not sure if the piston rings spun again but it seems that way. I have done other turbo charged engines in the same maner and never expireanced this problem. Any help would be appricated thank you.

Re(1): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 09:21:50 PM by Ron

Excessive cranksaft end play causes rings to spin on the the pistons. The spec and how to establish it are in the service manual for that engine. Warning: crankshaft end play can be correct when measured prior to assembly but the thrust bearing, which establishes end play, can easily be destroyed by: 1) one whack on the harmonic balancer with a hammer 2) incorrect/damaged/misaligned clutch/flywheel banging on the end of the crankshaft I'd check the end play per the book before I did anything else.

Re(2): Sealing 1950T

IP: 67.2.242.20 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 11:58:38 PM by Larry Harsin

After you get it all back together, I would put it on a dyno and run it at about 70 hp for about 2 hrs then 80 - 90 hp for the 3rd hour, to get the rings seated in. I havn't encountered the problem of them spinning on the pistons. Larry

Re(3): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 05:05:48 AM by Ron

Brian (and I) have observed this problem and there is no way the engine will run for 3 hours, or even 1/2 hour. When the rings spin their end gaps all line up and all oil control is lost. This causes instant severe wear on the rings; they lose tension and will never seat. Any fresh engine that billows smoke should be shut down immediately until the cause is found and corrected.

Re(4): Sealing 1950T

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 12:24:44 PM by Larry from MD

I have never had the spinning rings problem and I drove a 1950t with a loose crank for 15 years.I would recheck the valve train clearances and the seals before tearing any deeper.

Re(5): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 01:05:08 PM by Ron

Larry, read his post again. He DOES have rings that have spun on the pistons, he's seen them. They are not caused by valve guide or seal problems. Spun rings have a couple of causes, by far the most common is a damaged thrust bearing.

Re(6): Sealing 1950T

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 06:08:52 PM by Lyle

If the thrust bearing is indeed in that bad of shape you would be able to see signs of it in the sock oil filter and another thing on that motor if the thrust bearing is that tough of shape it could be spun, these motors have soft cranks,you could almost see the front pulley move in and out if someone else stepped in the clutch while you were watching, another thing when the head work was done did they put on valve seals?

Re(7): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 07:56:05 PM by Ron

He has a freshly assembled engine, started it, noticed lots of smoke, shut it down, pulled it apart, and noticed spun rings. No, the thrust bearing does not have to be in pieces to damage the rings. In fact, the thrust bearing does not have to suffer much damage at all, it's the excessive end play from the bearing surface being compressed that allows the crank to move back and forth that causes the rings to spin. It's certainly possible that the thrust bearing, or any othe main bearing is spun but that nothing to do with end play and hence spun rings. Doubt it all you like but there is no other way the properly indexed rings spin in their grooves... except for a rare machining error... not likely here. Valve seals, or lack of valve seals, has absolutely nothing to do with spun rings.

Re(8): Sealing 1950T

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 08:41:07 PM by Larry from MD

After rereading the post I still say look for a valve tappet that has come loose first.If an exahast valve is closed all the time gases will back up into the intake manifold and will not allow the next few cylinders to fire all their fuel.It will put unburned fuel into the manifold.Don't ask how I know this. Always check stuff outside before going inside.

Re(9): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.14.116 Posted on June 6, 2005 at 01:31:13 PM by Ron

Larry, Brian is not looking for advice on solving an oil burning problem. He already knows that it's burning oil because the ring gaps all line up due to the rings spinning on the pistons. What he's asking for guidance on what would cause the rings to spin after he properly assembled them onto the pistons with the correct stagger. I answered that question for him. I'll admit it's a bit of an oddball deal but I've seen it happen.

Re(10): Sealing 1950T

IP: 208.248.108.112 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 03:02:46 PM by brian

When I first started the engine it ran good. My uncle put some fuel in it that had water and it steamed the engine. I think that is what spun the piston rings the first time. I tore it apart to see if I had a cracked ring only to find three cylinders where the rings spun and lined up. I rehoned the cylinder and put new rings in. I have run it since and it has plenty of power. I just cant get rid of the smoke. I have chisel plowed about 40 acreas with it and when I am running it the smoke goes away but the minute I don't have a load on it the smoke comes back. I ran the 14 shank plow about 6mph up over hills and everything. checked crank end play and it was in spec. have exhaust manifold off and I am getting some flame out of some off the ports also some smoke. could the have messed up some of the nozzle.

Re(11): Sealing 1950T

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on June 7, 2005 at 11:46:38 PM by lyle

Brian, just wondering what do you call the first 4 cylinders are you saying cylinders 1-4 are doing it or 2-6 and also what color is the smoke,something you might try is switching injectors from the ones that are smoking to the ones that don't, also when you had the connecting rods out did they balance them and put in the one piece pin bushing in them? If you worked this thing on 40 acres and it worked well you might be after something fairly simple

Re(12): Sealing 1950T

IP: 69.179.16.4 Posted on June 8, 2005 at 10:52:35 AM by Ron

Water in the fuel did not spin the rings but if you feel you have that problem corrected, that's great. We can't help you with the new "smoke at idle but not under load problem" until you tell us what color the smoke is. It will either be black, white, or bluish white. Each indicates a different problem. I'd also like to know if you have checked the compression on each cylinder.

Re(13): Sealing 1950T

IP: 208.248.108.112 Posted on June 8, 2005 at 05:51:36 PM by brian

The smoke is white. I have since switched nozzles from a cylinder that was firing with no smoke with one that was not with smoke. The one that was not smoking started to and the other started firing. I have found some of the problem but I still am going to run a compression test on all cylinders just to make sure. I put the one piece bushings back in when I put the other set of rings in. I had one piece set with the rods the first time but the machine shop put the bushings in backwards. So when I sent them back up to fix the problem they put two piece ones in and they started coming out. I noticed when I went to switch the nozzles there was rust traped in the return. Upon further inspection of the nozzle I found inconsistant nozzle hole size. Therefore I think the nozzles were not atomizing the fuel causing the cylinder to not fire. When I pulled the old rings out it seemed that the tension in the rings was weak. This is why I think the water caused the rings to spin. Before the water had gone through the system the engine ran good no smoke. I thought when my father had the pump checked he also had the nozzles checked but this was not the case. thank you for all the replies.

Re(14): Sealing 1950T

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on June 8, 2005 at 07:09:22 PM by lyle

hey Brian it sounds like you are on the right track good luck and have fun when you get it done , i used to have one of these and i should have never sold it Lyle

Re(15): Sealing 1950T

IP: 67.2.242.77 Posted on June 9, 2005 at 07:09:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear what your investigation has uncovered so far. Larry

Oliver 88 side panels

IP: 69.40.131.82 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 09:38:02 PM by Derek D

Where is the best place to get good Oliver 88 sheet metal? Such as the side curtains, rear panels and hood? Reproduction pieces may be the best bet, but all that really matters is that they are straight. It'd be ideal to find a place close to southwest PA. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 88 side panels

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 07:33:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Richard Lynch makes reproduction panels. He is located in Eaton OH (west central OH) 937-456-6686. These are very good reproductions. Larry

Cockshutt 1900

IP: 146.82.5.2 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 09:08:56 PM by brad

I have a Cockshutt 1900 with 1000rpm pto. I would like to change it to 540rpm. Is it hard to do or hard to find the parts? Is it expensive to do?

Re(1): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 07:29:08 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a difficult job as it requires disassembly of the tractor - the PTO unit has to be taken out of the tractor. I have a unit that I can swap with you. If you are interested in this, call me at 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 146.82.5.2 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 02:36:04 AM by brad

thanks larry I will get in touch sometime soon

where to get filters for an Oliver?

IP: 67.176.135.21 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 12:30:47 PM by Andy Peffers

I have a 1958 Oliver 880 Diesel. I need to replace the fuel and oil filters. Where can I buy them? I live near Chicago Illinois.

Re(1): where to get filters for an Oliver?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 01:10:38 PM by Ron

Any NAPA store.

Re(1): where to get filters for an Oliver?

IP: 69.26.17.58 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 05:42:34 PM by Bill

I have had better luck at my AGCO dealer.

Re(2): where to get filters for an Oliver?

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 10:40:06 PM by J.Ulmer

NAPA franchised stores can get them all and I have gotten them through our CarQuest store also. They might not be on the shelf, but they can get most of them overnight in their regular daily delivery.

Re(3): where to get filters for an Oliver?

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 07:22:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Looks like these guys have answered your question. I go either to NAPA or AGCO. Larry

Cockshutt 1255 pto will not disengage

IP: 216.168.108.199 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 03:06:40 AM by Roy Gilbert

Original problem - the pto would not disengage when clutch pedal depressed. An entirely NEW clutch assembly, with new engine and pto clutch plates has been installed. New problem - the pto will not diengage when the clutch pedal is depressed. In other words, the problem is the same as before an investment of $1000 (Cdn) was made. What is the problem?solution? Thanks

Re(1): Cockshutt 1255 pto will not disengage

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 07:35:29 AM by Larry Harsin

This is a 2 stage clutch. There is a procedure to go through to adjust it and the procedure is outlined in the Shop Manual. There is a possibility that this is in the Operator's Manual also. You can get these manuals from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Oliver 550 Carburetor

IP: 199.89.234.122 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 01:55:45 PM by Michael M

I have a 1964 Oliver 550 with a Marvel Schebler Tsx-811 Carburetor. The tractor runs good under load and runs good at full throttle. But the tractor runs too rich when at a idle or half throttle. Changing the load needle takes care of the loading up. But the tractor lacks power when opening the throttle and moving the tractor. I put a new load and idle needle. New float needle and seat and gasket set in it. The float is good and does not stick and I have it set where the fuel is not pouring out of the intake of the carb. I have cleaned all of the ports and passages repeatedly with carburetor cleaner and a fine wire and a air gun. Could it be that the carburetor could have a bad nozzel? Or do I have something else that is not set right. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 550 Carburetor

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 03:09:42 PM by Ron

If it's set per the book then it's flooding... gas drips out the carburetor throat or weep hole. There are only 2 causes: 1) The float must be buoyant and the float level must be set per the book. Use the gauge you get with the kit. MS carbs are fussy about float level. 2) Dirt in the gas getting trapped between the float needle and seat. Yes I know you just cleaned and replaced everything but if you keep introducing dirt into the carburetor it will prevent the needle from seating. You would be amazed at how small a piece of dirt can keep the needle off the seat. There's an easy solution for this. Splice a NAPA 3033 gas filter in the fuel line between the tank and carburetor inlet. It's a metal cannister type with a paper element like automobiles use. Be sure to blow the line out back from the carb to the filter before you actually install the filter. This works every time for me.

Re(2): Oliver 550 Carburetor

IP: 67.2.248.129 Posted on June 2, 2005 at 08:11:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If you haven't already done it, I would remove the fuel strainer from the fuel tank and make sure there is nothing in the neck to obstruct the fuel. Otherwise, you may have an ignition problem instead of a fuel problem. Such as bad points, weak coil or a bad coil wire. Or even a poor connection in the wiring coming from the switch to the coil. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 550 Carburetor

IP: 207.144.98.149 Posted on June 2, 2005 at 11:57:38 PM by J. Mash

I PUT A ELECTRONIC IGNITION ON MY 550 AND IT HELPED IT IN EVERY WAY. GOT IT AT GENESSEE PRODUCTS.COM

Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 24.49.147.162 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 10:18:36 AM by Mike Fraley

Okay... I've got this 1969 Oliver-White 1650 Industrial loader/backhoe I've been trying to sell. It's 4 wheel drive, with a hydrostatic type transmission. (Foot pedals for forward and reverse, and 6 speeds to choose.) I've never turned a wrench on a tractor... but I've rebuilt a couple V8 engines.... The reverse works perfectly, and the forward has been working fine cold... maybe a little slow to engange, but workable and unchanged since I bought it. Yesterday, the problem got worse. After a 1/2 hour to 45 min. of work, it became harder and harder to make it go forward. Had to give a lot of gas.... feels like a clutch is slipping. Once it started moving after 30 seconds or so, it ran fine. How big of a job is this to fix? Can a novice like me do it? What manual do I need, what parts are bad, and where can I buy them? Any help here is appreciated. I will need to fix this before I can sell it... obviously. Thanks, Mike

Re(1): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 67.2.248.129 Posted on June 2, 2005 at 08:05:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is drain the oil out of the unit gearbox and the torque converter and put in new fluids. The procedure to do this is outlined in your Operator's Manual. Also, put in a new oil filter. This might solve your problem. Repair of this unit requires removal of the unit from the tractor, which involves removal of the engine. I would not reccommend that you try it. A Shop Manual that describes this procedure, as well as an Operator's Manual are available from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. You probably will have to get your parts from AGCO. I have a used Reverso-Torque, but I don't know how good it is. It came out of a 1650 Industrial. Larry

Re(2): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 06:15:58 AM by Mike Fraley

Thanks for the reply Larry.... another post at a different site indicated the same ideas..... I'll contact the numbers you gave and get a manual. Any thoughts on the odds of this being the easy fix?

Re(3): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on June 3, 2005 at 10:51:06 PM by J. Ulmer

Every time I buy ANYTHING WITH A MOTOR I drain EVERY Fluid and replace Every filter as you don't have any idea when the unit has been serviced. Doing so gets rid of dirt, oxidation, water, viruses, bacteria and whatever might be growing inside units. Clean oil with clean filters will allow pressures necessary for holding clutch packs, moving valves completely, ect. Get all the fluids hot so they will drain out the best possible. I have been known to add a compatible solvent (taking care not to cause damage to seal materials) to aid in cleaning out gum, varnish, and accumulated goo. Larry's advice is the cheapest and best place to start. Good luck! jerry

Re(4): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 05:57:18 AM by Ron

Amen!

Re(5): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 09:09:05 AM by Mike Fraley

Thanks guys! Hopefully this will restore the old boy to working condition. I've ordered a manual from the museum (incredibly helpful folks over there!) and I'll be able to get started on it next week. Next question: What kind of oil goes in this thing.... and what kind of filter? (I guess that will all be in the manual.) If the unit has failed.... is it possible to convert to a standard transmission?

Re(6): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 10:06:03 AM by Ron

It uses 2.5 gallons of ATF. Any Dexron/Mercon ATF is correct. Your AGCO dealer will probably ask you for the tractor serial number to ensure you get the right filter. Oliver does not put filter numbers in the Operator's Manual; they exist only as part numbers in the parts book. Before you get too far into this let me suggest you drain a small amout of the existing fluid into a glass jar. If the fluid is very dark red, brown, or black, or smells burnt, the reverser is toast. You should see some very fine silvery gray stuff which is clutch debris. This is OK. But if the stuff is granular like sand or has chunks of steel filings in it, the reverser is toast. No, it's not possible. You see, the transmission/final drive you have is intentionally missing the reverse gears. Therefore, any attempt to replace the reverser with a direct drive or other transmission will result in a tractor that can only go forward. Therefore, while you are at your AGCO dealer ask about availability and pricing of a service replacement reverser. Be sitting down when you do!

Re(7): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on June 4, 2005 at 06:03:11 PM by Mike Fraley

Okay.... I'll be ready for sticker shock... but could you tell me where to find an AGCO dealer who can sell Oliver parts? The ones I've called around here can only sell parts for the actual new brands that they sell.

Re(8): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 5, 2005 at 05:10:40 AM by Ron

Perhaps you should go to their website and enter your zip code into their dealer search feature and start calling them!

Re(9): Failing Clutch/torque converter?

IP: 67.2.242.126 Posted on June 22, 2005 at 04:57:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 1800 Diesel-Again

IP: 69.150.59.182 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 10:25:36 PM by Judy

Still having trouble setting timing on Flywheel. # Degrees on tape? Old, and can't read them. I think the specs--the 30 degrees--- you gave me were for gasoline. Sorry I should have mentioned it was a diesel.

Re(1): Oliver 1800 Diesel-Again

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 05:58:30 AM by Ron

Obviously you are not setting the ignition timing. The correct procedure for setting valve and injection pump timing are in the Operator's Manual.

Re(2): Oliver 1800 Diesel-Again

IP: 67.2.249.217 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 07:53:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The static timing for an 1800 C diesel is 2 degrees before TDC. The TDC mark is stamped on the flywheel. 2 degrees is approx. 1/8 of an inch above the TDC mark, when you are looking at it. Larry

6105 clutch

IP: 65.6.34.232 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 06:17:27 PM by George

Tractor just sits for a few seconds and then starts pulling. Just like a slipping clutch, tractor belongs to a neighbor and I didn't have many ideas. I went thru the bleeding procedure and it hasn't helped. Where do I get a tech manual for this tractor. I have checked most places and get funny looks.

Re(1): 6105 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:45:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 66 RC Wheel Spin

IP: 64.91.149.173 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 10:28:26 AM by Mark

I have a 66 that I pull in the antique class, I do pretty good with it. I notice when am hooked to the sled and I am nearing the end of my pull I only have one tire spinning. Is this normal? I have seen both tires spin out before. Did something go wrong with my tractor? Is there an adjustment I can make? Thanks you. Mark

Re(1): Oliver 66 RC Wheel Spin

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:43:05 PM by Larry Harsin

There are different things it could be - like more weight on one side or something. Make sure you don't have a brake dragging or sticking. If each side is weighted the same, I would maybe move the spinning wheel in a little on the axle. That would make a difference. Larry

1650

IP: 4.244.54.83 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 00:27:49 AM by Galin

Larry, I just bought a 1966 1650 oliver. The IT manual says its a negitive ground. This tractor has a positve ground. How do i switch it around, the alternator and regulator,etc. thanks, Galin

Re(1): 1650

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 05:44:52 AM by Ron

The manual is right and it also has a wiring diagram. But I'm having a hard time believing the alternator is working. Reversing polarity on an alternator instantly destroys the diode pack.

Re(2): 1650

IP: 67.2.249.81 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:29:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I think your batteries are charged up backwards. You are going to have to run your batteries clear down and recharge them. Leave the lights on on the tractor overnight to do this. Then recharge the batteries correctly. Larry

2255

IP: 65.60.214.161 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 11:05:38 PM by Matt

I recently bought the 2255 that I posted about last month. It seems to be a good running tractor. However, if it is run at high rpms for a little while the temp gauge runs a little into the red. The coolant doesn't boil over and the engine doesn't seem to be that hot. Is it possible for the engine to be that hot and for the coolant not to boil over? I took the radiator cap off and saw a few bubbles, does that mean I could have a compression leak and could that cause the engine to run warm? Also the brakes are a little sluggish and maybe a little spongy, and once they engage they stick a little. Could there be air in the lines? Could any other problems cause these symptoms? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): 2255

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 05:28:55 AM by Ron

Those engines run a little hot but but bubbles in the coolant isn't good. I'd do four things in this order: 1) Use a known good mechanical temperature test gauge to replace your sending unit temporarily to see if maybe your sending unit and/or gauge are bad. 2) Pressure test the cooling system. 3) Replace the radiator cap and thermostat with a known good ones. 4) If necessary, run a compression test, depending on results run a leakdown test. If it's none of the above, best bets are a partially restricted radiator, worn water pump impeller, lack of air flow across the radiator, wrong/old coolant, etc.

Re(2): 2255 IP: 67.2.249.81 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:23:41 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check on the engine temp - would be a bad sending unit. If the tractor is not boiling and pushing water out, I wouldn't worry too much. The gauge itself could even be bad. On the brakes, I would be inclined to take the covers off and take them apart and clean them up. Larry

Re(3): 2255

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 09:41:08 PM by J. Ulmer

After checking all your gauge components you might look at your belt and the pulleys it is running in. An incorrect sized belt put on by someone will slip in the grooves when the higher load from the fan is on at higher rpms and/or a worn belt seating area on the drive or driven pulley will cause even the correct belt to slip as its geometry doesn't match the pulleys geometry. Hope it works out okay

1650 stuck in gear

IP: 65.99.141.103 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 05:22:59 PM by Brandon Johnston

My friend has a 1650 that seems to be stuck in fourth gear. When you try to put it in any other gear it looks up and stalls the tractor. Any Ideas what the problem is. Thancks

Re(1): 1650 stuck in gear

IP: 67.2.249.81 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:18:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I would look for something broken, like a shift rail or a shift fork. Otherwise, possibly something has gotten dislocated, such as the shift lever in the wrong spot. Larry

Re(2): 1650 stuck in gear

IP: 65.99.141.73 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:30:43 PM by Brandon Johnston

We pulled the housing of and when you losen the bolt for the shiffting fork it goes right out and in gear fine but when you tighten the bolt it won't shift again. Does that mean the shiffting fork could be bent? Thanks

Re(3): 1650 stuck in gear

IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 07:47:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a good chance that it is bent. The rail could be bent also. Either one could be bent. But that is a good indication. Larry

77 engine surge

IP: 206.176.214.93 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 09:24:03 PM by greg

Hi Larry, My neighors son has an early 1949 77 gas that was overhauled by a supposed reputable mechanic this past winter. Since the overhaul the engine "surges", The guy that overhauled it tried twice to correct the problem, now he does not return phone calls. Sooooo... Being the good neighbor oliver lover that I am, I am trying to help out a 17 year old... I adjusted the governor linkage as stated in manual, pulled gov. apart and found he did not replace the bushing or put the one shim back in. I have a spare 77 block that has 4 shims.... The linkage is snug, no extra play at joints..new plugs, fuel filter, I even gave him my spare tsx363 in case it was the carb..points and condenser new. I static timed the engine last night, adjusted governor linkage short and again long, still surges... Just looking for advice from a pro....Thanks....

Re(1): 77 engine surge

IP: 67.137.84.183 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 11:07:04 PM by Jeff Oliver

I am going to assume that you did put the shim in the or thrust bearing and the bushing back in the governor. did you adjust the governor as it shows in the book? I have not had the surging problem on any of them yet but I have read that the adjustment on the outside housing of the governor is supposed to stop that providing everything else is good. Might check the carb and make sure it is not sucking in too much air from maybe bd seal or something. I have had th happen on a moline before and it didn't run right until I fixed it. Hope you get it straightened out as once that boys drives an Oliver for any length of time he won't want anything else :) haha voice of experience....

Re(3): 77 engine surge

IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 01:47:57 AM by Larry Harsin

If he put the thrust washer in behind the governor gear, he should check to make sure the bumper spring is there. Many times this is missing or broken. It is about 1/2" long. Then adjust it according to the Operator's Manual and that should do it. Larry

Re(4): 77 engine surge

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 05:57:50 AM by Ron

If it surges at idle you have a vacuum leak. If it surges under power you have a vacuum leak and/or broken/misadjusted governor. To find the vacuum leak spray carburetor/choke cleaner at the mating area between the carburetor/manifold and manifold/head ports with the engine at idle. Any change in engine speed or sounds indicates a leak.

Re(5): 77 engine surge

IP: 206.176.222.88 Posted on May 31, 2005 at 10:33:31 PM by greg

Can not find any vacuum leaks. I put thrust washer back in place, bumper spring is also in place, adjusted as per manual, I did notice the "mechanic" did put the throttle rod on backwards, and he drilled out the governor control rod to accept the pin and clevis mechanism, I am going to JB weld it shut and drill it for the correct end of the rod... Still not giving up, and the neighbor kid is getting antsy, he does not want to resort to running his farmall B...

1655 over/under

IP: 69.40.131.138 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 05:39:11 PM by Derek D

Got a 1655 diesel with the over/under hydraul shift. But the over/under skips direct when shifting. If it's in over, it skips down to under when I shift, even though the lever is in the direct position. When shifted from under to direct, nothing happens, but direct still holds the tractor back like it should, (since under lets the tractor free-wheel downhill). Any ideas on the problem?

Re(1): 1655 over/under

IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 01:40:06 AM by Larry Harsin

There is something wrong in the center position on the direct drive clutch. It will probably have to be torn down and repaired. I would talk to my AGCO Dealer about this problem and have him fix it. Larry

1800 steering again

IP: 67.137.84.183 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 02:25:37 PM by Jeff Oliver

I looked in my I&T manual at the adjustment you said I probably needed to do but before I do that I have one question. I was talking to a guy today and he said that if the lines going to he unit under the radiaor are reversed it will not work right either(obviously). Which line goes where? I would like to check this first to be sure they haven't been reversed because he moe I tinker on this tractor the more I am convinced someone has done alot of work on it and I am not real sure they knew what they were doing. If the lines are going to the right places then I will take he unit out and adjust it. Just read some of the newer posts, seems several ppl; are having PS problems.... Hopefully I didn't start an epidemic:)

Re(1): 1800 steering again

IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 01:35:07 AM by Larry Harsin

If this is on an A or B series that has the steering shaft that goes down along side the engine, the pressurized oil coming from the tractor goes in the small hole. If you have a newer 1800 with hydra-static steering and the lines were switched, it would simply steer the opposite direction you wanted to go. Larry

1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 12:57:01 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi.... I have a 1969 Oliver-White model 1650 backhoe - loader, 4 wheel drive with a fully enclosed cab. I'd like to sell it, and am wondering what a fair price would be. It has some rust, rough tires and a few leaks, but it starts right up on the first crank, runs clean and strong, and digs like a beast! Any idea what this is worth? I paid $10,500 for it a year ago, and immediatly rebuilt a front bucket cylinder to the tune of $600. (I've also been called an idiot and worse for paying that much, but I couldn't find another 4X4 backhoe that ran for any less.) Any help appreciated!

Re(1): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 04:29:23 PM by Ron

You're not going to get anything like that out of it. You might a construction equipment broker, they sometimes get buyers who want an inexpensive backhoe for a project. By the way, brand spanking new bucket cylinders cost around $100.

Re(2): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 06:20:34 PM by Mike Fraley

Okay.... I suspected 10 was high... now how much to high do you think it is? Do you think it's worth 5k, 7.5k, 3? I disagree about the contruction equip. broker... I think alot of people could use this machine on farms, job sites, etc.... anyone with land could find a thousand uses for it. By the way.... could you pass on the website or phone number of the company that sells bucket cylinders for $100? These are about 4 feet long, 6in. diameter cyl. If they're that cheap, I might just replace the whole lot of them.....

Re(3): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 06:34:00 PM by Ron

That's not a bucket cylinder. That's a boom cylinder. About $200. Farmers here hire/rent/buy construction equipment when they need it. Maybe your area is different.

Re(4): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 09:09:55 PM by J. Ulmer

Bought a JD 410 (1974 year model) a year ago with full cab for $7,000. It was a county machine and then a small city unit and only had 4650 hrs on it. Was a little larger , but not 4x4, but had had $4,250 worth of transmission workwithin 6 months at JD dealership. I use real front end loaders ( 4x4 articulated industrial machines) for serious dirt work and the hoe for digging septic systems, ect. Your unit is much rarer and harder to find parts for by someone who isn't an afficianado of Oliver so they would probably go for a Case 4x4. Condition and age drive price as well as demand (available buyers) Someone who NEEDS the push power of the 4x4 will pay some of the extra asking price, but your machine is getting on in age like I am so lots of luck with whatever you do with it!!

Re(5): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 01:27:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd start out asking $11,000 for it. There is some demand out there for a 1650 4 wheel drive. You might be pleasantly surprised. You can always lower your price, if you have to. Larry

Re(6): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 24.49.147.162 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 12:59:22 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi Ron.... I don't know everything about these machines, but I do know what I call a bucket cylinder... This is one of two that dump the front bucket.... two other much larger ones lift the front bucket, and these articulate the bucket to dump it.... and 4 feet may be a slight exaggeration... more like 3.5 feet... Again... where do you buy them for $200?!?!

Re(7): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 24.49.147.162 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 01:00:54 PM by Mike Fraley

Hi Larry... and thanks for the reply... I sure hope you're right about the value. I'm assuming you are the resident expert, as others here have found it way overpriced. So you really think $10k might be attainable?

Re(8): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 02:04:07 PM by Ron

Larry agrees with you so that makes him the expert? Really? If he didn't agree with you then he's not the expert, huh? Like he said, you can ask anything you want... and you can always lower your price! And lower it... and lower it...! Why don't you post back and tell us how much you actually get for it?

Re(9): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 207.255.114.245 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 06:27:55 PM by Mike Fraley

Ron... I didn't mean any offense. I suggested he was the expert because his name is on the website. That's all. How can there possibly be issues like this over the price of a backhoe? Do you really have that much excess energy? I don't. I'd still like to know where those $200 bucket cylinders are. Seriously. Where can I get one? --Mike

Re(10): 1650 Ind. Backhoe Value?

IP: 4.188.211.155 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 11:47:43 PM by Mike

I seen one of those sell for $15k last summer, and it was far from mint.

Oliver 1800

IP: 67.67.220.170 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 05:44:37 PM by judy

Having trouble setting timing. How many degrees on tape on flywheel?

Re(1): Oliver 1800

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:17:41 PM by Ron

The correct prodedure is in the Operator's Manual. Basically you set it with a timing light at high idle speed. The exact BTDC figure varies with the Model; A, B, & C and engine type. It's also important that the correct point gap be established first and that also varies with the model and engine type.

Re(2): Oliver 1800

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:26:28 PM by Larry Harsin

There is approx. 30 degrees on that timing tape. If you can't read the tape, remove the flywheel cover on the bell housing. Then you can clean the area where the tape is. Also, you should mark the Top Dead Center on the flywheel with chalk. Now you can start your engine and on the slow idle, using a timing light, set it on TDC or a hair before TDC. This should be close enough to get it to run right. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 1800

IP: 69.150.59.87 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 02:18:57 PM by judy

Thanks. For my dad's old tractor. We'll see if he can get it to work.

can't shift 880

IP: 209.206.129.56 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 10:05:32 PM by steve errer

I just bought a oliver 880D. I can not shift from high range to low range. If you push down on the lever just right it will shift. but lately it is gitting harder. It will shift from low to high fairly easy. What can I do? Thanks Steve Errer

Re(1): can't shift 880

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:20:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have a worn poppit block. Larry

1800 power steering

IP: 216.106.26.196 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 04:34:37 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I have a problem with my 1800 C. A couple of weeks ago I had to put in a different steering cylinder under the radiator out of a 1850 due to the end cap casting breaking out and ruining the casting. I put all new seals, quad ring and o-rings in this unit. Now the power steering doesn't want to work like it should. It seems to kind of hang up when the wheels are dead center but gets better when they are turned to either side. Sometimes it doesn't matter where the wheels are pointing and it still steers hard. Could something have happened to the steering motor or the priority vale to cause this condition? The reason the cylinder broke was beacuse of the front wheels dropping into a ditch and turned the wheels all the way to one side. It broke the casting where the plug goes into the left side of the cylinder. Any Ideas? Thank you

Re(1): 1800 power steering

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 09:49:59 PM by Larry from MD

Yes the flow divider could be sticking momentarily,but you could have a problem with the bearing in the steering colum.

Re(2): 1800 power steering

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:17:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you have some bearings that are binding, or the post might be sprung on the main steering column. Larry

Re(3): 1800 power steering

IP: 216.106.88.64 Posted on May 29, 2005 at 08:13:25 PM by Jason Epperson

I bought a rebuilt steering motor from Maibach tractor in Ohio for this tractor and put it in when I overhauled the engine and rebuilt the rest of the steering. This was a couple of years ago and I have put about 100 hours on it since. I would hate to think that the bearing would have went out already but i guess anything is possible.

Re(4): 1800 power steering

IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 02:00:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I still think you have a problem with a bearing locking up in that steering column. You are going to have to take it apart and see if something is sprung or a bearing broken or something. Larry

Re(5): 1800 power steering

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 30, 2005 at 06:28:37 AM by Ron

I went back and read your posts on this and have an idea. I'd bet that dirt/debris from the original incident worked it's way into any of the areas the others have mentioned. Generally whenever you break a hydraulic system component, the entire system must be flushed. Also, when working on them, it's extremly important to keep even tiny amounts of dirt out of them. I'd start by pulling the steering cylinder you rebuilt and clean it and flush the hoses/cooler etc.

Re(6): 1800 power steering

IP: 216.106.88.64 Posted on June 1, 2005 at 10:57:26 PM by Jason Epperson

I put a new tie rod on the left side and it steers a lot bettre now. The old one must have been worn more than I thought it was.

HERCULES DJX

IP: 207.200.116.8 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:23:44 PM by CHRIS HARDY

Hi-I have oliver crawler-BDH I need a hercules DJXC or suitable replacement THANKS

Re(1): HERCULES DJX

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:15:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Zimmerman Cletrac. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Email: zoc@att.net Larry

IP: 216.51.249.99 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 10:59:48 PM by farmer Tom

Larry, I had the 66 with the distribtor problem, got it going again, thanks.

I have another question. The hydraulics are the original electric system. Two switches on the steering colmun. How hard is it to change the system over to an old manual lever system? Do you have to replace everything or just the top of hydraulic system?

Re(1): 66

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:12:48 PM by Larry Harsin

You could rework the reservoir housing and attach some levers on the side to operate it. Otherwise, you'll have to get a newer style unit. Larry

pto seal

IP: 207.192.209.81 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 10:41:30 PM by Allan

Larry, I have a 1600 oliver that needs new seals inthe PTO.Do I take the gear case off the tractor that the PTO is located in?Surely more than 2 bolts holding it on, looks like it is just bolted on to the main casting. Thanks for your info. Allan

Re(1): pto seal

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 09:41:03 AM by Ron

Make it easy on yourself... get an Oliver Service Manual or I&T Shop Manual.

Re(2): pto seal

IP: 207.192.209.14 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:45:58 AM by Allan

Ron, Is it that hard to replace 2 seals? I hope that an Oliver service manual is better than the I&T publications. Do you know a good source for the Oliver manual?

Re(3): pto seal

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 10:28:53 AM by Ron

If you search the archives Larry often posts an email address for the Floyd County Historical Society. They have OEM manuals.

Re(4): pto seal

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:06:14 PM by Larry Harsin

That PTO gear box is secured by 2 more bolts up in the top behind the clutch. Making 4 bolts all together. Before you try to take the bolts out to drop the gear box, you should remove the 3 - 3/8 cap screws that hold the PTO clutch and driveshaft assembly in the gear box. Then, remove the clutch and driveshaft assembly before you unbolt the main gearbox from the tractor. Now you can service the gearbox output shaft and bearings. Now, when you go to reinstall the gearbox on the tractor, make certain that the gearbox is lined up perfectly on the tractor, as the front bearing on the PTO clutch assembly slides in there and into the tractor housing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! Otherwise, you will ruin a bearing. Larry

1655 Overheating

IP: 142.161.205.234 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:55:04 AM by John Hipwell

I purchased a Cockshutt 1655 last April, she is fitted with the 6 cyclinder diesel engine. The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner, she starts and runs great. She has always run with the needle on the temp gauge almost in the red, when she works it is just in the red. Oil pressure never drops below 40psi. The engine is very hot. I had the rad off and serviced, it had a slight leak and was full of dust, no improvement. I have fitted new fan belts, no change. I just took the theromsat out and it appears to work OK, checked it in a can of water on the stove. Last night I took the temp gage from my 1850 and wired it in the 1655. The 1850 tractor (Perkins 6-354) runs in the normal, it reads hot on the 1655 so I think the guage is correct. Can you offer me any advice? Thanks John

Re(1): 1655 Overheating

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 12:09:40 PM by Ron

Yes, pressure test the cooling system. and replace the radiator cap with a known good one. If that's not it, run a compression test. Given that the engine was just rebuilt, it may not have been done correctly which will often cause compression to leak into the cooling system at the head/block making the engine run very hot. If the compression test fails, run a cylinder leakdown test which will likely show bubbles in the radiator neck. I'd also suggest you don't use the tractor until you get it fixed as you are asking to warp the head and tear the head gasket, if they aren't already.

Re(2): 1655 Overheating

IP: 142.161.205.209 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 09:49:56 AM by John Hipwell

It would appear that I am going to have to remove the head and investigate further. I assume the 6 cylinder diesel engine is a Waukesha, it is not a Perkins, can any one tell me the model of the engine? Tractor ID plate has the following: 665-42005 and below that 263 282-494 Thanks John

Re(3): 1655 Overheating

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 02:28:16 PM by Ron

Yes, it's the Waukesha industrial engine, 283 ci., with direct injection.

Re(4): 1655 Overheating

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 10:13:40 PM by lyle

hi John hows it going? just reading about the overheating problem, im a little curious about the little copper tube that goes from the pump to i believe the stat housing that has to be open, you could be getting a air lock and another thing does it overheat and boil over or just run real hot thanks Lyle

Re(5): 1655 Overheating

IP: 142.161.203.103 Posted on May 27, 2005 at 11:44:02 PM by John Hipwell

I have never checked the copper tube, I can't belive an airlock, I cut 75 acres of hay! She does not boil over, just runs to hot, because of that I checked the water each morning when haying and just topped up a little. I belive the temp gauge is correct, she smells hot and is extreemly hot to touch. I have worked tractors all my life and never had this problem before. I checked the rad for bubbles last night, first I topped up the rad, couldn't see any bubbles but the water level kept rising! this I belive is due to the filler neck on the rad, stops a person from seeing any bubbles, but they rise to the top of the rad and push the water out the filler. Anyone agree? or disagree? I think I will pull the head off next week, have it pressure tested and plained.

Re(6): 1655 Overheating

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:04:38 AM by Ron

I disagree. It's perfectly normal for coolant to expand as it gets hot. Lacking a coolant recovery system, air space must be left in the radiator for this expansion. However, if you are leaving proper air space and coolant is still being puked out the neck, it's definitely overheating. A cylinder leakdown test will show bubbles if you have a compression leak but the correct procedure is to (over)fill the radiator so you can see bubbles.

Re(7): 1655 Overheating

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 06:58:28 PM by Larry Harsin

I would still install a new thermostat and try it out. Larry

Hydraulic hookup

IP: 69.26.16.130 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 09:56:31 AM by Bill Wagner

On my 1966 1650 I sometimes have trouble hooking up implement hydraulic hoses to the tractor. It has Pioneer brand quick couplers, but it seems to have pressure on the tractor side that won't let the little ball be pushed in. Is there a simple trick I don't know about? I have tried it with the tractor running or stopped, and tried moving the lever one way or the other to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): Hydraulic hookup

IP: 130.76.96.17 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:35:50 AM by Vernon

You need the Pioneer couplers that are hook-up under pressure. They are more expensive but worth the cost.

Re(2): Hydraulic hookup

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 06:54:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I, too, would reccommend you get the Pioneer couplers that hook up under pressure. They are worth the cost. You can get them at your implement dealer or your farm supply store. Larry

1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 08:49:36 PM by Chad (IA)

Guys, When I tried to start all I get is a click (from the solenoid I assume). It is out of gear, fuel stop in, clutch depressed. 80 degrees tempature outside. Over the last couple of days I have charged the batteries up to 75% each. Amps registers all the way to the negative. Cable connections look good. Could this be a poor battery cable, bad solenoid, starter??? It has always started before (hasn't turned over the fastest, but has always started). Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 67.2.249.184 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 10:07:20 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be any of the things that you have mentioned. The first thing I would do is turn on the lights, then try to start it. If the lights go out, it's either a bad battery connection or a bad cell in your battery. If the lights don't go out, look for a bad solenoid or a bad starter. Larry

Re(2): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 25, 2005 at 05:45:32 AM by Rom

The ammeter being pegged low when you turn the key means you have a dead short. With the solenoid clicking I'd say it's the starter brushes. By the way, running batteries at 75% charge will cause them to short internally (sulphate). Unless you have deep-cycle batteries, I'd keep them at 100% and if they won't hold 100% replace them.

Re(3): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 64.12.116.66 Posted on May 25, 2005 at 10:36:57 PM by Chad (IA)

You might be right. The first in series negative ground was fried at the post. I replaced that, cleaned connections and retightened. I turned the key, got a slow half a crank and immediately back to just a click. I unhooked the second positive from the solenoid tonight and will try a 12 volt battery out of the car tomorrow. If that cranks it, to your point, I have to get the batteries all the way up to 100% or replace them or replace all the battery cables. By the way can you charge batteries hooked up or should they be unhooked first?

Re(4): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 67.2.249.160 Posted on May 25, 2005 at 11:07:19 PM by Larry Harsin

They can be charged either way. Larry

Re(5): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 06:09:59 AM by Ron

The fact the post was fried and cleaning helped tells me I'd pull and replace all the cables and shine up the places they connect to with a wire brush. I'd also take the opportunity to have an auto parts store load test the batteries. They do this for free. If they pass they are worth charging, if not they need replaced. Yes, they can be charged in the tractor if you like. When you buy new cables, don't buy automotive cables. They aren't heavy enough. I always make my own from Belden 1/0 battery cable and solder-type solid copper terminals but I'm sure you can find similar cables at a large tractor or diesel shop.

Re(6): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:18:07 AM by J. Ulmer

Using a car battery on a diesel engine's higher amperage starter that doesn't have a high enough amperage rating for the load can be misleading. If your car has a big battery like the older V-8's had you can do it okay, but the smaller ones out of newer small engine cars won't have the amperage and when the voltage drops will be misleading on your results.

Re(7): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:48:07 AM by CEB

Chad, You can test your starter/solenoid unit quite easily also. Just remove the unit. Put it on the bench in your shop. Find any 12 volt car battery that you know is fully charged. Get a set of good jumper cables hook them up to the battery and then hook the postive to the terminal where your battery cable would hook to on the solenoid. Hook the negative cable to anywhere on starter body for ground. Make sure that you have a good ground. If the starter runs, then you know its good. If not, then you know you have a starter and/or solenoid problem.

Re(8): 1655 won't start, just clicks

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:58:47 AM by Ron

Pretty sure that tractor has two 6v batteries wired in series to produce 12v. Battery technology is much better now than 30-40 years ago so many people have switched to one 12v battery. As long as you get one that's rated at 600 CCA or above it should do nicely though like you said when it comes to amps more is better, for example, two 12v batteries wired in parallel.

I AM IN BUSINESS!!!

IP: 205.188.117.66 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 10:42:50 PM by Chad (IA)

I hooked the batteries back up the the charger tonight, got 2nd in series up to 100% and 1st up to 75% seems like that is as high as it would go. Turned the key and started right up, in fact I didn't even hear it crank. It just roared up. What a fun ride!!

Thanks

IP: 205.188.117.66 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 10:49:12 PM by Chad (IA)

Thanks again for all your help, every one of you. A dummy like me really benefits from message boards like this. Thanks again. OH, and if anyone comes across any original ROPS/canopy's please let me know. Lyle Dumont is also interested.

definitions

IP: 205.158.33.137 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 12:34:29 PM by Jim

Can someone explain the terms "styled" "restored" and "streamlined"? Thanks,

Re(1): definitions

IP: 67.2.249.184 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 10:02:47 PM by Larry Harsin

For example, in the Oliver 70, the "styled" version is so-called because it was different from the former Hart Parr 70. The newer "style". "Restored" can mean 2 different things. The tractor can be restored mechanically or restored cosmetically. Or, it can be completely restored. "Streamlined" comes from the grill design on the 70, first in 1937. It was designed to resemble the Streamliner train engines that were new and modern at the time. Then other models followed with this same design. Larry

1655 sparknocks

IP: 216.138.63.163 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 12:17:54 PM by Dale Garver

I have a 1655 gas tractor which sparknocks under load also it Diesles after you shut it off after a cool down; I have set the timing back as much as posible and traded distributerswith another tractor. Any answers?

Re(1): 1655 sparknocks

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 01:28:19 PM by Ron

Sounds like a vacuum leak. Spray carb/choke cleaner at the mating surface between the carburetor and manifold and then in turn each intake manifold port at the head with the engine at idle. Any change in sound or engine speed is a vacuum leak. Could be other things but I'd check that one first.

Re(2): 1655 sparknocks

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 01:34:16 PM by Ron

Just remembered... that engine has vacuum tap at the center of the manifold that feeds the vacuum advance in the distributor. Put your vacuum gauge on that tap and tell us what the reading is at idle.

Re(3): 1655 sparknocks

IP: 67.2.249.184 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 09:48:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Perhaps you have your timing set TOO slow. I would reccommend that you try reseting the timing as per the Operator's Manual, to stop the spark knocking on load. The dieseling effect at shut down should be eleviated by lowering the idle speed to approx. 600 rpm before turning off the ignition. Larry

Re(4): 1655 sparknocks

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 26, 2005 at 11:28:36 AM by J. Ulmer

I got hold of a gas engine which had similar side effects. We tried higher octane fuel to quiet the pinging...no results, timing adjustments...same. I noticed soot in the exhaust and smoking black under load and figured it might have been run rich and cleaned the nasty oil bath air cleaner. Still smoked a little so after adjusting carb to no end, put in a kit and cleared up exhaust smoking black. Still knocked and dieseled so pulled head and cleaned out carbon build up which got hot and acted as ignition source causing ping firing and dieseling. Ran great on regular without ping/knock or dieseling on shutdown. Fix the simple stuff first and maybe you will find the solution there. Good Luck! Jerry

Power steering on 1800 B series

IP: 70.97.230.37 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 10:57:51 PM by Jeff Oliver

I think I posted about my steering a few months ago on here as well ans ytmag. I have gotten alot of good advice and read the I&T manual until I can almost recite it. I had a leak on the unit under the radiator and got it fixed. It was the large seal around the main shaft, someone had put a smaller Oring in it and it wasn't sealing. I put a thicker one in and the leak went away. However the steering is still hard. At first I thought it was the whole front end needing rebuilding and bushing so I did that and as long as I am going slow it works reasonably ok. I was raking hay this afternoon and it won't turn fast. If there a really noticable difference between the B series with a Greemer and the C series with the Saginaw? When I turn the wheels to the left it acts like it is low on fluid , it will come back ok most of the time but jerky when turning. This has the divider vavle from the hydraulics. I checked the pressure there and it was low so I added shims until it was showing the 1000 lbs as per the I&T manual. It shows this while turning the whel and it is about the same as my C series as I checked it for comparison. I haven' checked the hydraulic pressure itself yet but when using it it seems to be fine. Now, my question is, could the divider valve need rebuilding and the relief vavle still be leaking with all those shims behind it still? Where else can I look? Anything in the unit under the radiator I can check? The one good point of this is I am learning alot about tractors and hydraulics I had no clue of before I bought this one :) I appreciate any help

Re(1): Power steering on 1800 B series

IP: 67.2.242.29 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 06:52:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I think your flow dividers are o.k. I think your problem is in the Gimmer unit under the radiator. The unit will have to be removed from the tractor and the aluminum end cap on the left end of the unit will have to be removed. I think you will find that too much slack has developed on the control end where the nut is staked to the shaft. There can be no slack, but also, it can't be so tight as to bind. It just has to be tight enough so that there is no slack. This should do it. Larry

Re(2): Power steering on 1800 B series

IP: 70.97.230.37 Posted on May 24, 2005 at 03:33:09 PM by Jeff Oliver

Thanks! I was hoping to not have to pull that but since I have been everywhere else on the PS system I guess I will be after all.

Governor

IP: 12.64.30.82 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 02:08:00 PM by Monte Frantz

Dear Larry I tracked down my Grandfathers Oliver S77 about a year ago and got her running after some work, however my dad has done all the work being that I'm a Marine stationed in Chicago on Recruiting duty, anyway back to the question dad said that the govener will have to be messed with and that she wont start back up once she's run for a bit, we only had to replace the exhast valves one piston and sleeve and all new bearings. Your guidance Please

Re(1): Governor

IP: 67.2.249.118 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 09:56:28 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to determine if it is a fuel problem or an electrical problem. It could be that it is not getting enough fuel - like foreign material in the neck of the strainer or foreign material in the carb jets. If it is electrical, the first thing I would check would be the ignition points. Larry

Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 66.13.126.68 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 10:35:58 AM by Jaeson T

I need some serious help! I am at my whits end. I have a 1971 Oliver/White 1655 Diesel tractor that I have tried everything under the sun to get running properly. It seems to bog down, die and smoke when put under load. It acts like it is not getting fuel. But I have replaced the fuel filters, cleaned the lines, replaced the standard fuel pump with an electric pump, cleaned out the tank, etc. Nothing seems to be working. It will start and idle without any problems, but when it is placed under load, it starts acting up. PLEASE, any suggestions as to what the problem could be or how to fix would be GREATLY appreciated

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 10:57:06 AM by Ron

Smoke what? The color matters... black, white, bluish/white? When any diesel has a problem related to load, the first step is to check compression per the specs in the operator's and/or service manual. It takes a special gauge available at most auto parts or truck stores. It should have the correct adapter. The instructions for perforimg the test come with the gauge. If it passes the compression test, you have a fuel delivery problem, most likely dead injectors. If it fails, the next step is a cylinder leakdown test which also requires special equipment and techniques. It will pinpoint the cause of the lost compression. Assuming the compression checks out and the injectors are all working correctly, I'd suspect the governor. However, unless it's been fooled with or the adjustment has been changed (see the operator's/service manual), or the linkage damaged, they rarely go bad on their own.

Re(2): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 66.13.126.68 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 11:21:12 AM by Jaeson T

Thanks for the quick reply. My next question would be......can I repair/clean the injectors or do I have to replace them? If I can repair/clean them, can you explain how? If I need to replace them, can you tell me where to find them and give me an idea how much this will cost? Lastly, this engine appears to have an injector pump in addition to the regular fuel pump. Would this also need to be replaced or repaired? Thanks again for your help.

Re(3): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 11:40:14 AM by Larry from MD

I would do more testing on the fuel system before starting on the expensive stuff.First off are you squirting a strong flow of fuel out the of the injector pump bleeds?If not check for a blocked safty screen just under the input elbow of the injector pump.Use somekind of sucker to clean DO NOT pull the screen out.Don't tighten the elbow real hard you can break the alluminum parts.

Re(4): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 03:02:20 PM by CEB

Larry from MD advice is sound. I would do more testing to see if the fuel flow isn't the problem first. Injectors on the 1655 can be a real challenge to pull if they've been on the tractor for any length of time. Snap-On makes a puller that works like a small slide hammer, but it isn't cheap. You could make your own, but it doesn't sound like you have a lot of diesel experience, so I don't know if that would be a good idea. As far as getting the injectors tested, you are better off just taking them to a diesel shop for testing. You need a special machine that pumps up the injectors to test the break out pressure and spray pattern. Its not really very practical for the occasional user to purchase a machine like that.

Re(5): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 12:03:58 PM by Ron

Jaeson, Larry is right. You have to diagnose the problem, not just toss solutons at it. I'm assuming you've bled both the low and high sides? Back to the smoke... If it's white smoke, you've got bad problems related to loss of compression. If it's bluish/white smoke, you have worn rings/valve guides. If it's black smoke, it could be a restriction in the air inlet/filter, an exhaust restriction, dirty/worn injectors, injection pump timed late, etc.

Re(6): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 66.13.126.68 Posted on May 23, 2005 at 02:43:24 PM by Jaeson T

Ron & Larry, thank your for your help/input. I will crank it up tonight and observe the color of the smoke. Unfortunately, I think it is white in color, which sounds like an expensive fix....... we shall see.

Re(7): Oliver 1655 Dsl Fuel Problem

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:34:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I would take it to a qualified diesel mechanic and have him check it out and then go from that point. Larry

white 2-155 3pt hitch drops when engine is shut off

IP: 206.72.33.122 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 10:42:56 PM by Rosco Sywter

hi larry, i thought i'd try here as i can't seem to find out anything on this. i took my white 2-155 to the shop last fall to get the 3 point fixed. it wouldn't stay up with the engine off, and would not raise at all at idle with warm oil when a load is on it. a very experienced white mechanic took it apart to see what he could find. he thought the lift cylinder seemed worn so he rebuild it and put tractor back together. it was a time consuming repair since the cab had to be partially removed. the bill was 1709.00 of which 1400 was labor. i got the tractor back and there was no improvement at all in how it works. i talked to the manager about to find out what they are will to do, he said there are 2 other things it could be. a servo valve and i think he said a control block. one was 412.00 and the other was 940.00 they will furnish the labor to go back in and replace the 412.00 part. if that don't work, they will furnish labor to replace the 940.00 part. they would not refund anything if unneeded part was installed. he did not say and i forgot to ask what if neither part fixed it. is there any way to test these parts to see if they are bad? i am trying to decide what to do. right now i have nothing to show for 1700 dollars. . i use the lift for a mounted field cultivator that i like. for what i will have in repairs, i could have got a real good used pull type. i want to keep on the good side of them if i can. there the closest (25 miles), i've been with them for 25 years, and the machanic is real good. i am going to retire in five years, so want to keep equipment running until then. is there any ideas on this???? TIA

Re(1): white 2-155 3pt hitch drops when engine is shut off

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 04:46:30 AM by Ron

The mechanic is not real good, he's real bad. He spent a lot of your money to fix a problem, didn't fix it, and won't stand behind it. The service manual has a diagnostic procedure to determine exactly what the problem is. It's far less expensive for you if you'll find a mechanic who has one and will take the time to read it instead of just throwing parts at a problem he obviously doesn't understand.

Re(2): white 2-155 3pt hitch drops when engine is shut off

IP: 67.2.249.178 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 07:45:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I can't speculate what the problem is. Why don't you call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and talk to him. 800-320-6224 I am not experienced on the White 2-155, but they have sold a lot of them at O'Brien Co. Impl. Larry

Re(3): white 2-155 3pt hitch drops when engine is shut off

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 06:28:38 AM by J. Ulmer

My sincere condolences as I have been in your shoes also. Only thing worse is when they "fix" a bunch of other stuff that wasn't broke and then hold your stuff hostage with a mechanic's lien. I will drive past the Ford dealership two blocks away on my way to the next dealership sixty miles away because of a similar situation 25 years ago (same owner still) I willsend someone in on a small factory only part occasionally, but get fleet discounts from the guys I went to in Lubbock and they will ship or have stuff on the counter. Local guy usually has to order it anyway as I am still fixing and using trucks I bought when I started in business in 1976. Ron is dead right about needing a new business relation ship and although I hate attorneys with a passion, you might visit with one and let him visit with the management as they have already admitted that they did not do what you hired them to...they sold you a bill of goods. I had a clutch replaced by a shop and it wasn't right and they pulled the tranny (in a diesel pickup) nine times. They charged me for once yet the problem was in the remanfactured components they got. They learned a hard lesson and settled it with their supplier...not me, and they have had a loyal customer for twenty years. Don't let your emotional investment and financial investment lead you to make a decision that will aggravate you from now on. Any kind of divorce is painful, but it may be best to sever that relationship and look elsewhere. Best wishes!! Jerry

Re(4): white 2-155 3pt hitch drops when engine is shut off

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 11:58:43 AM by Larry from MD

I agree they did a poor job.Your problem is most likly in the servo valve they can be rebuilt,no need at all to replace the whole thing.Most likely the little check ball is jammed up in its spring so it is stuck open letting a small amount of oil to leek out all the time.I have used just one small spring to fix this problem.

hyd on 1600 d

IP: 216.190.163.129 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 09:20:16 PM by JR

I bought this 1600 with a 1610 loaderthis winter. When I am starting it up it has lots of hyd pressure it will lift up a 2000 lb round bale at 1800 rpm. After 30 min. it loses it's umph and then it is very hard to get them up. Also the three point will barely lift the round bales even when the oil is cold . Is this a Hyd. pump problem or is it something else? I am a good mechanic just not familiar with these tractors would like some info on how to fix and possible cost to do so. JR

Re(1): hyd on 1600 d

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 09:53:11 PM by Larry Harsin

A 2000 lb bale is just about beyond the capabilities of a 1600. In fact, it's all an 1800 will handle. The fact that your lifting ability decreases after it is warmed up a few minutes, tells me that the pump is worn. This pump should develop 1800 - 2000 lbs pressure at full throttle. I have just replaced 2 of these pumps recently. There is a repair kit available that can be installed in your pump. But usually it is best to just put in a new pump. The cost for a pump is $400 for an after market. A new one from AGCO is considerably higher. Larry

Re(2): hyd on 1600 d

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 04:36:18 AM by Ron

The pump might be bad; you'lll need a service manual to replace it. But first, make sure it has clean fluid and filter. Use high-quality fluid. Also be sure the bypass valves are adjusted correctly (see operator's manual), and that there are no leaks. For sake of comparison, my 1650 with 1610 loader will lift and carry 3,000 lb buckets of sand/gravel all day long. The 3 pt. with bale spear will easily lift and carry my 1,500lb bales all day so lifting 2,000 lb bales should be possible. Your 1600 should do about the same.

Re(3): hyd on 1600 d

IP: 216.190.163.33 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 04:49:38 AM by JR

WHere can I get this aftermarket pump also wher is it on the tractor? I really know very little about this tractor . Does it require tearing out a lot of the other stuff to get to it or is it close to the outside to easily repair? Is this tractor open center or closed? JR

Re(3): hyd on 1600 d

IP: 67.2.249.178 Posted on May 21, 2005 at 07:37:55 AM by Larry Harsin

It is an open center hydraulic system with interlocks. You can get an after market pump from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. To replace the hydraulic pump, the complete hydraulic system has to be lifted off the back of the tractor. You should get a Shop Manual before doing this operation. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net The hydraulic pump is beneath the seat. Larry

1850

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 10:17:38 PM by lyle

larry,thanks for the info on the 1850 with a seeping head gasket i put in some bars leak and it seems to be slowing down, i do have one more question, when i overhauled this tractor i could not find any markings on the harmonic balancer and nobody at the implement shop knew for sure either do perkins engines have any special instuctions as far as getting them installed right thanks Lyle

Re(1): 1850

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 03:34:49 AM by Ron

If it's leaking coolant into the cylinders "Bars Leak" won't help and you risk ruining the bearings. You can contact Perkins directly or any diesel shop can get you a service manual which will have instructions for installing the balancer correctly.

Re(2): 1850

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 06:13:11 AM by J. Ulmer

If you have a Massey-Ferguson dealer or mechanic around, the Perkins 354 was used in the 1100 and 1104 farm tractors and 750 combines. They could be informative.

Re(3): 1850

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 11:32:00 AM by Larry from MD

On the ones i have worked on the mark or line on the outside piece allways is alligned with the keyway.Or at least its supposed to be.The mark can be hard to find sometimes its on the inside.Years ago my father found one a quarter turn off he took a big pipe wrench and just twisted it back.It ran that way for 15 years.

Re(4): 1850

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 06:59:50 PM by lyle

thanks for the info,the crank on this one is a splined shaft,there is no key way,i will do a little more checking,the tractor runs fine but lopes a little on idle,i had the pump rebuilt and they told me to run a little fuel conditioner in it to help lube the new pump,we will see thanks

Re(5): 1850

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 09:45:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I checked the Shop Manual. There was nothing mentioned about marks or location. It was stressed not to hammer on the harmonic balancer or drop it, as it could easily be damaged. Even a dent will ruin it. Also, the cap screw that holds the front pulley on should be torqued 270 - 300 foot pounds. Larry

Oliver Manuals

IP: 131.15.48.58 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 04:31:16 PM by Derrick

Mr. Harsin, I know this isn't a tractor or even a mechanical question, but might you have a source for Oliver Superior dryland seeder manuals? I've a 1937 12 row seeder in great condition but no instruction. I'm glad the seeder is simple to figure out, but still would like a book.

Re(1): Oliver Manuals

IP: 67.2.248.143 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 10:01:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The Floyd County Museum in Charles City IA has Manuals for everything that Oliver ever made. You can order your manual by calling 641-228-1099 or Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Hyd pump

IP: 164.58.223.135 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 11:49:26 AM by Mitch

What is the GPM of an 1967 1850d Hydralic pump? I want to use it to power a hydralic post hole digger.

Re(1): Hyd pump

IP: 67.2.249.93 Posted on May 20, 2005 at 06:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin

It is 16 Gallons Per Minute. I think that will work o.k. Larry

Change 550 for a 1355

IP: 142.41.247.10 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 07:00:39 AM by Hugo Therrien

Hi, I have the possibility to change my 550 for a 4 x 4 Oliver 1355 for 2000$. I would like to know if it's a good move and what I need to check. The 4x4 it's interresting because I need more traction for the snowblower.

Re(1): Change 550 for a 1355

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 10:30:47 AM by Ron

I would buy a set of logger's chains, we call them ring chains. It will make that 550 climb trees and you'll save a bunch of money. You can also add weight, either wheel weights and/or CaCl. My 1650 with no chains easily pushes > 2' of snow with the box blade. But it's 3 times the weight of a 550.

Re(2): Change 550 for a 1355

IP: 67.2.248.143 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 09:56:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If the 1355 is in good condition and it fits your needs, go for it. Larry

Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 66.37.231.243 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 04:55:57 PM by AJ

Right now I have an auxiliary hydraulic pump for my loader on my Oliver 1750 Special. The pump works well, but the pump and the reservoir are in the way. Is there a way I can use the tractors internal pump (access the pressure by removing some of the plugs). And if there is a way, will there be enough power to run my loader. AJ

Re(1): Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 69.26.16.170 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 07:05:47 PM by Bill Wagner

I plumbed into one set of the hydraulic remotes with quick couplers on my 1650 and it works just fine. I hold the control lever with a bungy cord when I am using the loader and release it when using the tractor for other things with the loader on.

Re(2): Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 67.2.248.230 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 10:16:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there is a power beyond port where you can pull live oil out and put it through an external valve for your loader. It is located on the left front corner of the cast iron lid on your hydraulic unit. First you must remove the 1/2" pipe plug that faces forward, and you will have to obtain a 3/8" socket head pipe plug, to install in the passage where you removed the pipe plug. It will be down in there about 2 1/2". Then you will screw a 1/2" hydraulic hose in there and run it to the "in" port on the external valve. From the "out" port of the external valve, a hose will have to go out and go back in where a 1/2" pipe plug that points out toward the fender will have to be removed. It is located just behind where you blocked the passage with the 3/8" plug. This should do it. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 66.37.231.243 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 11:08:00 PM by AJ

Thank you. You have an excellent web site. I have enjoyed going through the web site. My wife's Grandpa owned this Oliver and then her Dad and now I have it. It is a great tractor. I also have a little Oliver garden tractor that has a tiller on the back. Do you think there will be issues regarding power if I take fluid from the tractor?

Re(4): Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 02:37:29 AM by Ron

Yes. If you are operating the loader and 3pt at the same time, both will slow down. Outside of that, no. By the way, when you replumb the loader as Larry suggested, be sure to change the filter and and top-off the fluid. Loader cylinders take quite a bit of fluid.

Re(5): Oliver 1750 Special

IP: 67.2.248.156 Posted on May 28, 2005 at 07:39:02 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It will be fine. Larry

super 88 D

IP: 68.188.221.233 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 10:38:00 PM by jeff

Hi Larry, My Super 88 D has recently aquired a white, somewhat oiley residue on the tappet cover around the breather and inside the oil filler hole. The tractor also sounds like it may have a miss in it. Starts good and has good power, anti-freeze looks good and oil pressure is good. Any suggestions as to what has gone bad? Thank you Larry,

Re(1): super 88 D

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 05:43:07 AM by Ron

The white stuff is water emulsified with oil. In other words, the crank is beating the oil and water together. Water gets into the crankcase either as coolant from an internal leak or atmospheric water from rain or condensation via an external leak. The cure can be as simple as always allowing the engine to run until fully warm each and every time you start it to having to repair a cracked block or head. You can start by pulling the plugs and reading them. A water fouled plug will cause the miss you have. Best bet might be to have a mechanic check it out... compression test, leakdown text, etc. You can prove water in the crankcase very easily. allow the tractor to sit overnight. Drain the first few ounces of oil into a glass jar. Water is heavier than oil and settles to the bottom of the oil pan. Then let the glass jar sit undisturbed for several hours. Carefully pick it up and look at the bottom of the jar. Any water will be obvious. If you find any, don't run the engine until you get the problem fixed as water will quickly destroy engine bearings.

Re(2): super 88 D

IP: 65.6.46.110 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 09:05:36 PM by George

I want to watch the plugs get pulled on a dsl.

Re(3): super 88 D

IP: 67.2.248.230 Posted on May 18, 2005 at 10:04:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a compression on one cylinder caused by a broken piston ring or a broken piston ring land on the piston. This can cause the white moisture in the crankcase, because combustion gas is getting into the crankcase. This would also explain the miss (a bad piston or a bad cylinder). I would be tempted to remove the exhaust manifold and start the engine and watch which cylinder is not burning properly compared to the others. Larry

Re(4): super 88 D

IP: 69.179.10.41 Posted on May 19, 2005 at 10:35:31 AM by Ron

To be honest, I didn't realize he had a diesel but no matter, same answer either way. But as long as you brought it up, actually many diesels have "spark" plugs, more correctly called glow plugs. They, and even the injectors, can be "read" to give a rough idea of engine condition.

Oliver 900

IP: 207.32.31.113 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 09:55:06 PM by Garry Stepanek

Hi Larry I came across a oliver 900 industrial? with a factory cab. Rough shape. Is it worth anything? How rare is it ? Garry

Re(1): Oliver 900

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 10:12:19 PM by Larry Harsin

There were 280 of them built between 1946 and 1951. So, yes, it is a rare tractor. Then with the factory cab, that might make it more special yet, I don't know. What I have found concerning Industrials is this: even though the production numbers on them are low, there aren't that many people who are interested in them. I still like to collect and restore the Industrial tractors, but they are not big money makers. Larry

super 55 problems

IP: 128.113.48.241 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 11:21:14 AM by Bill Weber

Larry: Thanks in advance for any help you can offer - I have a couple problems with my S55. The 3 pt hitch arms won't raise in load position, though they seem OK in draft, maybe with a tendency to gradually creep higher. The other problem is with the governor, I can't seem to get the 2200 no load speed at full throttle. I've followed the I&T manual procedure for adjusting linkage, and I can manually move the gov to throttle rod to increase the rpms. I really appreciate your site, I'm still digging through the archives for anything related to my tractor. Bill

Re(1): super 55 problems

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 10:07:00 PM by Larry Harsin

On the draft control for the 3 pt, recheck all of the adjustments with your I & T Manual. I can't specifically say what the problem might be. As far as the governor is concerned, if it hasn't been disassembled from the engine for awhile, I believe I would remove it from the engine and look for worn parts in there. Namely, the thrust washer behind the gear and the thrust bearing in front of the weights. Then adjust the governor up to the specs in the I & T Instructions. Larry

Re(2): super 55 problems

IP: 128.113.30.88 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 10:51:29 PM by Bill Weber

Thanks for the suggestions, Larry. I did have the governor apart, found the face of the fork quite worn. The thrust bearing seemed ok, and not sure about the thrust washer. Also, the bumper spring was missing & the wrong screw was threaded in there. I made my own setup, based on knowing that the spring was about 1/2" long. But I will get original replacements, since I believe you're saying parts are available for this unit? Bill

Parts help

IP: 4.188.208.168 Posted on May 16, 2005 at 07:32:42 PM by Mike

Wondering if anyone knows were to get reproduction or any source for Allis parts. I am an Oliver guy and have a friend with Allis and I don't know were to go. Thanks

Re(1): Parts help

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on May 17, 2005 at 00:29:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Check in an Antique Power Magazine. Their website is: www.antiquepower.com There are usually people in there advertising Allis parts. Also, Steiner Tractor Parts in Holly MI 810-695-1919 and Valu-Bilt in Indianola IA 888-828-3276 both have some Allis parts. Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 4.244.54.167 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 09:06:11 PM by mark

larry,just bought a 1650 diesel that has one 12 volt battery in it.its hard to start,but runs great when its running.can i put another 12 volt battery on the other side?and how should i hook it up? thank you,mark

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 69.179.8.213 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 09:15:00 PM by Ron

In parallel. But there is no need for two batteries if you have a high CCA battery in good condition.

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 09:23:50 PM by Larry Harsin

You can. It should be hooked up in parallel. In other words, put the additional battery on and run another cable up to the starter like the other battery is hooked up. It should improve your cranking speed and this should help your starting provided the starter is in good condition. Larry

880 deisel fuel system

IP: 67.162.84.65 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 03:33:53 PM by Andy Peffers

I was driving over some rough ground that must have loosened up some stuff in fuel tank. This cause the engine to run only at idle. I tried to give it more fuel and it would stall out. I was able to clean out the fuel filters and it ran fine. But now I want to clean out the fuel tank and flush out the fuel system. Do you have any suggestions for me? Are there any precautions I need to know about?

Re(1): 880 deisel fuel system

IP: 69.179.8.213 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 06:18:58 PM by Ron

Remove the tank and take it to a radiator shop. They can clean it using chemicals without damaging it. Whatever you do, do not use any type of mechanical/abrasive cleaning technique or the tank will certainly be damag

Re(2): 880 deisel fuel system

IP: 67.2.248.138 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 09:19:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the fuel valve out of the bottom of the tank and rinse it out with diesel fuel. Then service all of the filters like it says in the Operator's Manual. This should do it. Larry

Re(3): 880 deisel fuel system

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 10:55:07 PM by J. Ulmer

We have acquired several older machines which have been "resting" for several months to several years and had the devil of a time with that flakey powdery rust which formed from sweating and condensation in a steel tank which wasnn't full of fuel. An old mechanic years ago told me to remove the tank, open any plugs and then run a steam cleaner blasting the sides and bottom and running the water out. The thermal shock from heating the metal and the blast effectively knock off the rust and dirt accumulation on the bottom of the tank giving you a chance to get things running without changing plugged filters and the cut off valve's small orfices having to be removed and disassembled. Lots of luck!!

1850D head gasket leak

IP: 216.146.250.96 Posted on May 14, 2005 at 08:25:38 PM by gary nuhn

have noticed oil leaking from right rear, and evidence of compression leaking from right front of the head gasket on my 1850D-plan to repair as soon as planting is complete-should the valves be ground while head is off? any other recommended service while head is off?

Re(1): 1850D head gasket leak

IP: 69.179.8.213 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 05:12:09 AM by Ron

The head should be stripped so that it can be surfaced dead flat at a machine shop. In addition to a new gasket you'll want to use new head bolts. This is required as per your description the head has a twist in it. While apart you can inspect the valves/seats per the specs in the service manual.

Re(2): 1850D head gasket leak

IP: 67.2.249.191 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 08:43:06 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, I'd retorque the head bolts and adjust the valve tappets before I did anything else. If that doesn't do it, I'd pull the head and replace the head gasket. As far as the valves are concerned, I wouldn't grind the valves unless you can hear valves leaking compression. Larry

1950-T

IP: 24.155.165.175 Posted on May 14, 2005 at 06:14:54 PM by Don Dwire

I have a 1950-T that blows water out of the Radiator. I put a new head gasket on and had the head checked for cracks. It don't run hot. I don't pull it hard, as when it is down, I pull the digger with my 88. I've done everything I can think of but trade for a John Deere! Help!

Re(1): 1950-T

IP: 67.2.242.87 Posted on May 14, 2005 at 07:39:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that there is a cylinder sleeve that is either cracked or corroded through and is allowing compression to get into the water jacket. If a sleeve is cracked, it is most probable it will be cracked down about 3/8 of an inch from the top of the sleeve. Larry

Re(2): 1950-T

IP: 69.179.8.213 Posted on May 15, 2005 at 05:14:39 AM by Ron

Have a mechanic run a cylinder "leak-down" test. It will show exactly where compression is leaking into the water jacket. Then you will know where to look when you tear it down.

1950T Hydraulic Remotes

IP: 205.188.116.11 Posted on May 10, 2005 at 10:16:55 PM by David Cruise

I constantly have trouble removing my remote lines from any implement I have attached to this tractor. They won't release because they are holding pressure, usually on the tractor side. I always try to bleed off with the remote handles after tractor shuts down but it usually doesn't work and I end up getting a face full of oil bleeding them off with a screwdriver. Any ideas how to simplify this frustrating chore? Thanks

Re(1): 1950T Hydraulic Remotes

IP: 67.2.242.68 Posted on May 10, 2005 at 10:28:30 PM by Larry Harsin

The problem is trapped oil with the hydraulic system. Get the best Pioneer coupler at your implement dealer or your farm supply store. It will uncouple and recouple under pressure. Larry

Re(2): 1950T Hydraulic Remotes

IP: 69.179.16.67 Posted on May 11, 2005 at 05:31:42 AM by Ron

Larry is right! Don't let them sell you anything else. I switched all mine to Pioneer years ago and it's the best money I've ever spent.

Re(3): 1950T Hydraulic Remotes

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on May 11, 2005 at 12:05:43 PM by CEB

Make sure that you get the Pioneer couplers that are specifically listed as "couple under pressure" couplers. Just because they are Pioneer couplers doesn't mean they will couple under pressure. The couple under pressure couplers are twice the price of the regular ones, but well worth the money if you are doing a lot of hooking and unhooking.

550 oliver

IP: 207.144.87.126 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 10:31:32 PM by J. Mash

HELLO OLIVER FRIENDS, I AM LOOKING FOR SOME GOOD 12'BY 26" WHEELS FOR MY 550. I HAVE SOME EXCELLANT 28" WHEELS I WOULD TRADE OR SELL IF I COULD FIND SOME.I ALSO WANT TO CONVERT MY TRACTOR OVER TO POWER STEERING. THANKS.

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 69.179.16.67 Posted on May 9, 2005 at 03:14:55 AM by Ron

See www.millertire.com for the wheels.

Re(2): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.229 Posted on May 9, 2005 at 12:50:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these. Good Luck!! Larry

shifting problem on 1850-1650

IP: 216.106.36.123 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 08:45:42 PM by gregg

i have an 1850 and 1650 that both have the same shifting problems. in the top H pattern all the gears work fine and stay in gear, but when you go to the bottom H pattern with 1st 2nd 4th and low reverse as soon as you let the clutch out and start moving it jumps out of gear and of course stops.. i bought both of them this way so not sure how long they have been doing this. any ideas???

Re(1): shifting problem on 1850-1650

IP: 67.2.249.229 Posted on May 9, 2005 at 12:48:28 PM by Larry Harsin

The problem with the shifting is probably on the input cluster. It could be as simple as a loose or bent shifting fork or it could be a major problem requiring a lot of labor and parts. Larry

Re(2): shifting problem on 1850-1650

IP: 65.66.131.74 Posted on May 11, 2005 at 04:14:39 PM by gregg

larry,,thanks alot for the info. i'm getting ready to tear into it, i'll let you know what i find,, thanks again,, gregg jaecques

Wheel weights Super 55

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 08:21:25 PM by Larry

At the LeSueur Swap meet the man said these front and rear wheel weight came off of a super 55. I believed him. They looked close but the fronts are too small to bolt up. The casting number on the front wt is 451008A. Is this the number for a Super 44 front weight? The holes are too small for the 55. The rear weight has the part #451009G. Do you recognize these numbers from another manufacturer?

Re(3): Wheel weights Super 55

IP: 206.222.219.230 Posted on May 13, 2005 at 01:18:08 AM by B A Star

The part numbers on the wheel weights are the numbers for a Super 44 / 440. These weights are probalby more rare than those you thought you were buying.

Re(1)Pulling the engine on a Super 55

IP: 70.69.82.62 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 10:17:23 PM by Super 55

I have a parts book and those are not the numbers for the Super 55 as listed. Rear should be 1E-1235, and the fronts are 1H-1245-A, OR there is a second listing, Rear 100 048-A for the power assist wheels. Don't know about the Super 44.

Re(2): Pulling the engine on a Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.229 Posted on May 9, 2005 at 12:45:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Those are not familiar numbers to me. Larry

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