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"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid-April thru Mid-May, 2004 Archives
oliver 77
IP: 66.133.189.82 Posted on May 25, 2004 at 10:14:54 PM by kevin m.
I checked the compresion after about 50 hr on A rebuild and it was 150-155 does that sound right?
Re(1): oliver 77
IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 07:11:16 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it does. Larry
1855 Hydralics
IP: 167.159.1.2 Posted on May 25, 2004 at 01:21:35 AM by Tony Reid
I bought an 1855 oliver a couple of months ago and everything worked great on it. Then we was discing ground and the Small line going to the steering motor started knocking.I got all the O rings and stuff in the valve and replaced them and it still knocks also i have lost most of my hydalics hard to steer and remotes slow or not at all.Any suggestions.
Re(1): 1855 Hydralics
IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on May 26, 2004 at 07:09:31 AM by Larry Harsin
You may be getting air into your system somewhere on the suction side. Check and make sure that the little pump up by the engine is o.k. and not letting air get into the lines. Larry
oliver corn planter 312
IP: 216.127.17.104 Posted on May 24, 2004 at 09:37:13 PM by Don Clark
I have a 2 row oliver 312 corn planter. I have an operators manuel. It only shows corn plantings down to 36 inch rows. How do I calculate population with 30 inch rows? Also, what are the proper decals for the planter as I will sand blast it , prime and repaint. I plan on using this in the field and for a show or two per year Thanks Don Clark
Re(1): oliver corn planter 312
IP: 67.2.248.125 Posted on May 24, 2004 at 10:12:23 PM by Larry Harsin
To figure the population in 30 inch rows compared to 36 inch rows, take 117% of your population in your 36 inch rows and that is your population in the 30 inch rows. You can get decals from Lyle Dumont. Email him: oliver@lisco.com. Larry
PTO Cover
IP: 216.74.205.189 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 11:23:12 PM by Roger
Larry, would you happen to have a pto cover for a 1600?
Re(1): PTO Cover
IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 11:56:01 PM by Larry Harsin
No. I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Thanks for checking with me. Larry
770 hydraulics
IP: 216.68.40.150 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 10:59:10 PM by joe
The hydraulics, lock up, when the cylinders fully retract or extend...have to disconnet hoses, release pressure, then they will work, until the end of the stroke is reached again...ok as long as I don't extend or retract all the way...where do I start.?
Re(1): 770 hydraulics
IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 11:50:51 PM by Larry Harsin
Check the operating pressure on the unit when the tractor is warmed up. To do this, take a guage and plug it in where the hydraulic outlets are. It should develop 950 - 1050 psi. If the pressure is too high or too low, either one, it can cause this problem. So check the pressure and go from there. There is a relief valve with shims, that goes into the base plate to the left of the gearshift lever facing the operator. Adjust it with the shims. If there is only 400 - 500 psi, after the tractor is warmed up, it could be a weak pump. In this case you will have to repair or replace the pump. Larry
rear tires for a S55
IP: 143.207.8.3 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 08:54:33 PM by John Beal
What was the original size of rear tires for a S55? Where can a person find that size?
Re(1): rear tires for a S55
IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 11:39:46 PM by Larry Harsin
The original tire options for a S55, were 11 x 28 or 12 x 26. On the 550 you could get 12.4 x 28 or 13.6 x 26 or 14.9 x 26. The 550 had different wheel sizes. You can get tires at Firestone or Goodyear tire dealers otherwise, www.millertire.com. Larry
1964 Oliver 550 Paint Color Question
IP: 206.176.206.16 Posted on May 22, 2004 at 10:50:30 PM by Kerry Brunner
While the major parts were a specific green color, was the contrasting color White or something called "Clover White"? Is this color available through TISCO? I did get the Martin-Senour green at NAPA and ... geez, that's expensive! I think I can get by with something a little cheaper for the rims!
Re(1): 1964 Oliver 550 Paint Color Question
IP: 67.2.249.194 Posted on May 23, 2004 at 04:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin
I would reccommend that you get meadow green and clover white from your AGCO Dealer. These are the correct colors and the paint is cheaper than NAPA. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have it. Larry
77 rear wheel rims
IP: 136.181.195.36 Posted on May 20, 2004 at 05:28:21 PM by Alan Wernette
Larry, Sorry for the phone tag so, I thought it would be better to email you my question. My brother and I are currently restoring our Father's retired 1952 77 Row Crop. We need to replace the rear wheel rims due to severe rusting out around the valves. We found 2 fairly good same size rims in a salvage yard with one having a severe dented in area. Two questions: One, What is the going price for wheel rims like this and two, do you have rims like this for sale that are in good condition with no major dents and rusted out areas?
Re(1): 77 rear wheel rims
IP: 67.2.249.138 Posted on May 20, 2004 at 11:49:32 PM by Larry Harsin
I do have some. Some are rusty. There are several different widths. Typically the 77 rim is 11 inches wide where the tire bead sits. The going price for a 77 rim in good condition is $100 each. However, the problem is, these freight companies want as much as the rims are worth for shipping them. If you can get something locally, you're ahead. I have repaired some of these rims, myself, here at home, so don't be afraid to get creative. If you come and look at what I have and can take them with you, I'm willing to sell, but the hassle with the freight companies makes it not worth it. Larry
Noise from hydr drive??
IP: 198.81.26.10 Posted on May 20, 2004 at 00:52:52 AM by Siegfried
We replaced the clutch and at the same time also the seals in the hydra drive in my 1850. After a short time I heard a banging noise. the lower the rpm the louder in direct drive, noise goes away in hyra drive mode. noise also goes away if clutch is used. any ideas??
Re(1): Noise from hydr drive??
IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on May 20, 2004 at 08:27:42 AM by Larry Harsin
The trouble is in the hydra power then. You are going to have to take it apart and have a look. Larry
oliver 70 flywheel
IP: 204.42.25.252 Posted on May 19, 2004 at 10:40:07 PM by Dave Holtschult
Larry can you tell me the procedure for putting the flywheel back on my 39 oliver 70,I dont see any marks to time it Thanks
Re(1): oliver 70 flywheel
IP: 67.2.248.14 Posted on May 19, 2004 at 11:37:00 PM by Larry Harsin
There is only one way that it will fit correctly. Just keep trying til it fits and it will be correct. The holes will only fit one way. Another thing you can do is turn the engine until the piston is on Top Dead Center number 1. Then line up the TDC mark on your flywheel and the timing hole. Larry
RC 77 hydraulic question
IP: 204.184.28.177 Posted on May 18, 2004 at 11:24:31 PM by Bobby
I have a 77 with factory hyd and an aftermarket 3pt. I recently put on a 3pt finish mower an adjusted the restrictor in the line to slow the drop speed of the 3pt now it creeps up could it be the restrictor is set too tight and causing back pressure?
Re(1): RC 77 hydraulic question
IP: 67.2.248.14 Posted on May 19, 2004 at 11:33:16 PM by Larry Harsin
It might be. Just try changing the adjustment on your restrictor as you suspicion. That might help it. Larry
dist. vs Mag.
IP: 198.81.26.10 Posted on May 18, 2004 at 00:00:05 AM by Larry
I have a 1938 Oliver model 70 which is rumming a magneto. I still cant seem to get it running even after going thru the great instruction I recieved from you last summer. I beleive the mag. needs to be rebuilt. Rather than rebuilding the mag. can I drop a distributor in, if so what changes need to be made if any? Thank You Larry
Re(1): dist. vs Mag.
IP: 67.2.248.14 Posted on May 19, 2004 at 11:26:00 PM by Larry Harsin
You'll need a distributor, a coil and an ignition switch. I have these parts. I'll email you. Larry
Super 55 3 point
IP: 216.49.226.26 Posted on May 17, 2004 at 08:20:01 AM by Frank Goshert
I was just trimming my fescue with a 5 ft mounted mower behind my 1955 Super 55 (the second love of my life) when the three point begain to raise up without moving the lever. It came up close to the top and to let it down I had to push the lever almost all the way forward. It would start raising again after 200 yards of cutting or so. I have a lot to do and would be thankfull for any advice you could give me. Thanks, Lightning's Imp. Oliver 1952 to 1975 Frank
Re(1): Super 55 3 point
IP: 67.2.248.14 Posted on May 19, 2004 at 11:19:20 PM by Larry Harsin
I think you should block out your draft control. On that tractor, there should be a little lever, that has 2 positions, behind the seat . Try that lever in the other position and see if that cures the problem. This little lever is for position control or draft control. Larry
77RC hydraulic problem
IP: 152.163.252.101 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 07:49:16 PM by Jeremy Bailiff
I have an Oliver 77 row crop that has an aftermarket three point on it. I am having problems with the hydraulics leaking off when there is a load on it. I have checked the line and cylinder for leaks but have not found any. Could it be an internal problem or could you give me some ideas on what else to check.
Re(1): 77RC hydraulic problem
IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 10:38:37 PM by Larry Harsin
If your hydraulic cylinder is not leaking, then it has to be inside the unit. Raise the 3 pt. up and then disconnect the lines going to the cylinder and cap them. Then put weight on the cylinder on the 3 pt. arms and see if they settle. If the arms settle, your problem is in your cylinder. If they don't settle, then you have leakage in the control valve in the hydraulic unit. If the problem is in the control unit in the tractor, you can reverse the hoses and that may correct the problem. Larry
oliver 1750
IP: 64.90.77.93 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 07:21:30 PM by troy nelson
two questions for ya. how can you identify a wakasha from a perkins? my 1750 has under, direct and over drive. Has this been added from a 1755?? also we are having an auction june 5 2004. the 1750 and an oliver 880 gas will be on that. both in fair cond.
Re(2): oliver 1750
IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 10:31:50 PM by Larry Harsin
On a Perkins, the injection pump sets vertically. On a Waukesha the injection pump lays parallel with the crankshaft. On the Perkins, the exhaust comes out of the right side of the engine. The Waukesha has the exhaust coming out of the left side of the engine. There were some late 1750's built with the over/under. You didn't say where your auction is located. Larry
Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 4.175.132.220 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 11:10:30 AM by Mark
I am replacing the clutch and pressure plate on my Oliver 66. As I draw the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel the fingers on the pressure plate slowly move in toward the center of the circle, they move in so much that the pipe that the throwout bearing slides on will not fit in through the center of the fingers. Did I get the wrong pressure plate? I don't have the old one here to compare, my dealer took it for the core. Thank you, Mark
Re(1): Oliver 66 clutch
IP: 67.2.249.245 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 02:05:18 PM by Larry Harsin
That doesn't sound right. I believe I would take it back to the dealer and compare it with my old plate. Larry
Oliver 1755
IP: 12.159.171.222 Posted on May 14, 2004 at 10:36:00 AM by Gary Greenland
Where can I purchase new or good used parts for a 1755 factory cab? I need a complete control unit that fits in front of the heater core. Seals and a complete door are also needed. Thanks
Re(1): Oliver 1755
IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on May 14, 2004 at 11:19:45 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Larry
Oliver 66 12 volt to 6 volt converter
IP: 216.170.248.7 Posted on May 13, 2004 at 03:26:15 PM by Mark Siegman
I had a lot of trouble starting my oliver 66 in the winter even with a new fully charged battery. The starter just spins very slow in the winter. I have decided to convent to 12 volts in hopes it will help my cold weather starting problems. I have a question regarding the electrohydraulic system. I want to keep that at 6 volts as I don^(1)t want to risk damaging it with 12 volts. Where can I find a 12 volt to 6 volt converter that will have enough amps to power my electrohydraulic valves?
Re(1): Oliver 66 12 volt to 6 volt converter
IP: 69.179.2.9 Posted on May 13, 2004 at 05:01:06 PM by Ron
J. C. Whitney has what you seek. They also have shunts that protect 6v lamps and gauges. But you might want to consider...
1) New 2/0 size battery cables.
2) Synthetic oil
3) Block heater
Re(2): Oliver 66 12 volt to 6 volt converter
IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on May 14, 2004 at 11:14:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Go ahead and hook up the tractor for 12 volts and then get that reducer for the hydraulics. The 12 volt will fix your starting problems. Larry
Oliver 66 fenders
IP: 64.91.148.6 Posted on May 13, 2004 at 08:20:20 AM by Damon
Can the fenders on a 66 be put on backwards? The ones on my 66 seem to be leaning to the rear of the tractor and are not centered where they bolt on to the axle housing. Thank you for this site. Damon
Re(1): Oliver 66 fenders
IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on May 14, 2004 at 11:10:18 PM by Larry Harsin
There are different sets of holes on the axle flange to get the fenders set the way you want them. They probably aren't on backwards. Larry
2050 overheating
IP: 207.254.120.198 Posted on May 9, 2004 at 10:40:07 PM by curt
hello. i have a question about my 2050. last fall my engine temp ran hot, but my hydraulics also ran very hot, much hotter than normal. is my problem in the radiator only or do i possibly have a problem with my oil cooler? i haven't used the tractor this spring or even started it yet. i don't use it very often, but would still like to solve this problem. thanks.
Re(1): 2050 overheating
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 9, 2004 at 11:59:08 PM by j ulmer
If your oil cooler OR your radiator fins are loaded with dirt/trash/leaves/(you probably don't strip cotton) your tractor's fan can't pull air through the units to achieve the fluid-to- metal-to-air heat transfer. Shine bright light (a hand held halogen flashlite 500,000 candle power) through the radiators and see if they are clean of foreign matter and dirt. If not blow and/or wash backwards to clean. Do not use high pressure which can warp fins and damage radiators. Same for blowing. Dirt and oil mixtures can be saturated with warm detergent solutions. A leak in the oil cooler can coat both units fins and collect dirt blocking air flow. When stripping cotton we had to blow stuff out every morning and lots of times at lunch. A dirty working environment can fill them up fast!
Re(2): 2050 overheating
IP: 69.179.5.224 Posted on May 10, 2004 at 06:49:50 AM by Ron Wolf
This is great advice. I would also like to add that I use a product called "Clear Magic" that I spray on to the coolers and radiator, let sit for a while, and then rinse with cold water from a garden hose. It seems to remove oil/grease better than detergents and is much easier to get in between all the fins and tubes. Hardware stores and home centers carry it.
Re(3): 2050 overheating
IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on May 10, 2004 at 07:37:58 AM by Larry Harsin
I think your problem is with your radiator and your oil cooler. They are all right up there together. Cleaning the radiator as suggested will probably solve your problem. Larry
Re(4): 2050 overheating
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on May 11, 2004 at 09:34:03 AM by Shep Va
I will also add to this. The 478 Hurk engine is not a cool running engine, it does not have a cross flow head and the intake and exhaust manifolds run very close togeather. My 2150 with the Hurk always had more power than it had the capacity to cool itself. I did put a streight pipe on the exhaust to get rid of the heat faster and that helped but we still had to gear down because of the heat. Because your engine does not have a turbo it should not be as bad, but some of the heating problems is just part of the design of the early 478 Hurk and becuause the radiators are just not big enough for the engine.
1755 steering cylinder
IP: 69.27.133.91 Posted on May 8, 2004 at 10:47:14 PM by Joe Gilliam
Just over a year ago I purchased at auction a 1974, 1755 with a severe engine knock. I had an Oliver mechanic overhaul it and while doing so he recomended that while it was accessable I should replace the quad rings in the steering cylinder. It wasn't leaking at all but with the radiator off it was easy to get to and considering the age of the tractor he thought it a good idea. When I got the tractor the cover had dust all around it so I know the cover hadn't been off recently. After I put approximately 8 hours on the tractor I noticed one ear of the top cover on the steering cylinder had been blown off. I replaced it twice with another cover and had the same result. I recently took out the center plug and put in a bleeder valve and this has kept if from blowing up however now it dribbles oil continously. Any suggestions you could give me would be a great help. Thanks.
Re(1): 1755 steering cylinder
IP: 67.2.249.230 Posted on May 8, 2004 at 11:48:30 PM by Larry Harsin
I would replace the "O" ring on that cover and try it again. I would check the "O" ring to see if it had been twisted or pinched. You may have to replace the whole steering cylinder assembly, if you can't get it to quit leaking. Larry
Re(1): 1755 steering cylinder
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on May 11, 2004 at 09:39:26 AM by Shep Va
The center plug on the steering cylinder cap is "supposed" to have an elbow in it and it is plumbed back into the hydraulic system at the cooler line. Because this tractor has a closed center hydraulic system it will sometimes build up excess pressure in the steering cylinder that must be expelled as you steer the tractor back and forth. Your old cylinder cap should have had this. You need to plumb a low pressure hose from the top cover on the cylinder into the hydraulic oil cooler line to prevent this build up of pressure, or you will continue to have the same problems. Good luck
Plow wheels
IP: 138.237.176.30 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 12:06:15 PM by Larry
Do you have or know where I can find a pair of 16 or 15 inch rims to fit an Oliver 2 bottom 12 inch plow? These are 6 bolt rims with the holes on a 6 inch diamater pattern. This is the smallest 6 bolt pattern I have ever seen. I also need the 12 inch rim and tire for the rear wheel. Thanks for any assistance. If any of your readers can help, my email address is lckruse@cox.net. I live in Nebraska.
Re(1): Plow wheels
IP: 69.179.6.94 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 06:12:17 PM by Ron Wolf
I'd start with http://www.millertire.com/
Re(1): Plow wheels
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 09:44:43 PM by j ulmer
check out www.southwestwheel.com and click on their ag/implement link Their home page has their 800 numbers and contact info (Dallas and Lubbock) They ship direct as well as to dealers all over.
Re(2): Plow wheels
IP: 67.2.248.57 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 10:17:51 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have these. I would check around at all of the Salvage Yards. Another person I would contact would be Arnold Meyer. He has several old plows etc. Email: almeyer@frontiernet.net. Larry
66 Engine oil
IP: 64.91.149.106 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 03:27:51 PM by Damon
Hi, I am just finishing up a complete rebuild of the engine in my Oliver 66. Can you suggest a oil to run for break-in and what to run in it after break-in is complete. Also this tractor has a hydraulic pump that has wires running in to it, I have never used the hydraulics. How does this unit work? and do I need to keep oil in it? Thank, Damon
Re(1): 66 Engine oil
IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 10:03:44 PM by Larry Harsin
I would use 10w x 30 engine oil. I like to use 10w x 30 mulit-grade in these engines. On our operation here, we use Mobil Oil Delvac 10w x 30. On this hydraulic unit, the wires that you mentioned were connected to the mechanical linkage on the control valve and then to the hydraulic cylinder. This system was employed so it would make possible the adjustment of the depth stop on the hydraulic cylinders without the operator having to stop or leave the seat of the tractor. Yes, you do need to keep oil in the hydraulic unit as the gears for the hydraulic pump are turning whenever the engine is running. Larry
Re(1): 66 Engine oil
IP: 69.179.4.111 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 06:05:50 AM by Ron
I use a good grade of 10W-30 conventional oil for the first 4-8 engine hours. Then I drain it, replace the filter, and use Mobil 1 synthetic 10W-30.
1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 216.106.56.48 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 10:40:28 PM by Jason Epperson
Hi Larry. How have you been? I have a question about the 3 pt. hitch on my 1800 C. I turned the restrictor valves in for two way operation and I also turned in the bypass valve all the way and my 3 pt. arms went all the way down and they won't come back up no matter where I move the lever. What else am I missing? Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Re(1): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 06:24:12 AM by Larry Harsin
If you turned the bypass valve all the way in, that 3 pt. should work. You may have a sticking regulator spool in your servo valve. Start the engine and run it at 2/3 throttle, then work both remote levers at the same time quickly in opposite directions. This should help knock that spool loose. I am assuming that the remotes are working and that the steering is working. If this doesn't work, you may have to remove the servo valve and check it out. Larry
Re(2): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 216.106.56.38 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 11:04:47 PM by Jason Epperson
I tried rocking the levers back and forth like you said to do and all I could get to happen was get the arms to jump just a very little bit. The first time I tried to move the lever the other day after turning the bypass valve in, I had to pull pretty hard on the lever to get it to move and then it went real easy. Could I have broke a pin or something that connects the lever to the servo valve. To get to the servo valve I have to remove the top cover under the seat correct? What do you think?
Re(3): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 67.2.249.230 Posted on May 8, 2004 at 11:53:01 PM by Larry Harsin
You better take that cover off and have a look. You may have something in there that has come apart on the servo valve. Yes, you have to remove the top cover under the seat. If you can't find anything wrong with the servo valve, you may have a relief valve that has broken off of the main lift cylinder. If this is the case, the entire unit will have to be lifted off of the tractor to replace that broken part. Larry
Re(4): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 216.106.56.18 Posted on May 9, 2004 at 11:50:11 AM by Jason Epperson
Thanks for the info Larry. I probably won't work on it till we get done planting beans but at least I know where to start.
Re(5): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 216.106.56.98 Posted on May 14, 2004 at 07:34:29 PM by Jason Epperson
I tore into the tractor today and found the roll pin sheared off of the shaft that actuates the servo valve. The pilot spool in the servo valve came out a little too far and would not go back in too easy until I took it out and turned it and it went back in. The 2 little jam nuts on the end of the return spring were turned almost all the way out toward the end. So I turned them all the way in to increase the pressure on the pilot spool. Is this the correct way to set it up? Thanks again.
Re(6): 1800 3 point hitch ?
IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on May 16, 2004 at 10:45:03 PM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to use your own good judgement. You should have a Service Manual for this job, but it sounds like you are on the right track. You can get a Service Manual from Mary Ann at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
wheels
IP: 66.18.178.143 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 10:34:31 PM by jim
need help finding a pair of press steel wheels for a 77 oliver 12x38
Re(1): wheels
IP: 67.2.249.185 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 06:16:40 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909 or Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304. Larry
Oliver 60 Spark Plugs
IP: 198.208.6.35 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 11:11:22 AM by Trevor
Hi Larry, I am about to start reassembling my Oliver 60 engine and I need to know what spark plug to use. I would perfer to use an NGK plug (easiest for me to get) but any brand would be fine.
Re(1): Oliver 60 Spark Plugs IP: 67.2.242.81 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 09:16:47 PM by Larry Harsin I prefer a C-86 plug by AC-Delco. If you tell your supplier of your NGK plug that you need a med. heat range plug, he will supply the correct NGK plug to match the C-86 for the heat range. Larry
3 point problems - 550
IP: 207.67.12.96 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 09:12:09 AM by Greg
I have a 1961 Oliver 550, gas that has problems with the 3 point hitch system. Not being a farmer I'm not completly familiar with the system. Anyhow I tried to hook up a plow (Ferguson 3 pt 2x14) and once I raised the lower arms (using the 3 pt hydraulics) into position and attached the top link the hydraulics could not lift the plow any higher off the ground. At rest the lower links are about ankle high and when activated come to about knee height. I will not raise it any further. I can stand on the lower links and it can lift my weight, 180 lbs. Also I do notice that the control knob goes through about 3/4 rotation before I get any movement at all. My serial # 112839-519 which means that I have the newer, "Double Feed-Back System" and this is confirmed by the lack of a Selector Control Lever. What do you recommend? Am I using the system correctly?
Re(1): 3 point problems - 550
IP: 67.2.242.81 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 09:12:06 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds to me that you may have a weak pump. You need to check the operating pressure of the hydraulic pump. You should get an I & T Shop Manual for your tractor, so that you know how to do this. You can get one of these manuals from Mary Ann Townsend at email: fchs@fiai.net. If you need parts after you check this, you can get them from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(2): 3 point problems - 550
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 5, 2004 at 12:40:37 PM by Larry from MD
Have you tried turning the turnbuckel by the spring.
Re(3): 3 point problems - 550
IP: 216.46.211.214 Posted on May 6, 2004 at 08:25:24 AM by Mel
This may sound redicules, but is the control lever going all the way forward and not up against the stop.
1750
IP: 64.7.173.149 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 08:51:30 AM by R.Hein
I have a 1750 with a Holley distribitor,is there a conversion kit that will fit this to change over to solid state unit ?
Re(1): 1750
IP: 69.179.4.111 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 01:52:58 PM by Ron
Yes, but it's very expensive. AGCO sells a new expensive Mallory distributor to replace the Holley or you can use the appropriate Delco distributor which is very inexpensive. The cross-over numbers are in the service manuals.
Re(1): 1750
IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 05:59:20 PM by Carl
I have a 1650 with the holley distributor. We converted it to solid state ignition. It cost $150.00. I believe the name of the company was Pertronix. They are based in California somewhere. The kit was really easy to install and then you never have to mess with points again. The have a warning on the kit, don't leave the ignition key in the on position while the tractor isn't running.
Re(2): 1750
IP: 67.2.242.81 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 09:02:38 PM by Larry Harsin
I, too, would reccommend solid state ignition. Call T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. They have a solid state ignition for the Holley Distributor for $120. Larry
super 55 transmission
IP: 216.76.155.21 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 11:32:11 PM by GREG ELLIOTT
I have just purcased my first Oliver a super 55. I have two gears in the transmission that have shelled each other.I was needing to know what is the best way to take the two gear sections out? I have two friends that are oliver collectors but they don't have any experience on this model.They are the one who recommended your site to me . Where is the best place for me to buy a service manual? Thank You for the help
Re(1): super 55 transmission
IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 11:41:13 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get an Operator's Manual, a Service Manual and a Parts Manual for this tractor from the Musuem in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry
1655
IP: 67.250.218.116 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 09:32:12 PM by Jim johnston
Hi Larry.I hate to bother you with this petty question.My friend just bought a 1655 Oliver.I can't find the yr it was built.Can you help? SN.220-328-490.Thanks very much.Jim
Re(1): 1655
IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 11:38:29 PM by Larry Harsin
The 1655 serial number 220-328 was built in 1969. It is the first year that the 1655 was built. The 490 in the number refers to the gearing. Larry
Re(2): 1655
IP: 67.233.64.206 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 11:08:42 AM by Jim Johnston
Thank you so much Larry for the info.I could not find it.Jim
Oliver 770 oil leak
IP: 68.80.70.94 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 04:16:16 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I was plowing the other day with my 770 and got hung up on some tree roots. I jerked the tractor back and forth a few times to try and get free and then noticed oil coming out of the bell housing right behind the oil pan. There is a cotterpin in the hole it's leaking from. Not sure what the cotterpin is for, but it was leaking pretty good. I shut it down and checked the oil and it didn't seem like it lost much at all. I used it again and it just dripped here and there until the tractor got pretty crooked from the hill I was on and then seemed to start leaking again. Is the oil leaking into the bell housing from the rapid movement of the oil or do you think I have a bad seal back there? Thank you for any help you can give me and sorry for writing you a storybook. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 oil leak
IP: 67.2.248.122 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 11:35:38 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm sure it is the rear main seal that is leaking. It's not real serious if you keep your oil level up, but eventually you will have to put a new seal in it. To replace the rear main seal, the flywheel has to be removed from the engine. Larry
770 Gas Engine Starter
IP: 65.37.11.212 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 09:54:52 AM by Justin
Larry, A few months ago the bendix spring in my starter broke. I replaced it with a new one and it was working very well until yesterday. I started the tractor, and the starter threw the gear against the nose cone so hard it broke off, got wedged between the flywheel and the bellhousing, and cracked the bellhousing. Ouch! I was able to get the piece fished out of the bellhousing, and the crack does not extend forward to the flange, or rearward very far. I don't think the crack will cause a problem. Is there a starter that will fit this tractor which is readily available (i.e. auto parts store?) It does not look like anything uncommon. I'm hoping I can find it locally and cheap.
Re(1): 770 Gas Engine Starter
IP: 69.179.7.9 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 02:52:05 PM by Ron Wolf
NAPA sells them.
Re(2): 770 Gas Engine Starter
IP: 67.2.249.223 Posted on May 10, 2004 at 07:47:01 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, NAPA or you could check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Do not engage the starter if the engine is turning backward. This will cause the damage you are having. Larry
oliver 880 specs
IP: 205.188.116.14 Posted on May 2, 2004 at 08:15:26 PM by Doug Ohio
I'm looking for any info on horsepower, factory weight, transmissions.I would also like value of 880 gas narrow front in good original cond. including sheet metal but needs paint, p.s.pump.
Re(1): oliver 880 specs
IP: 67.2.249.14 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 01:38:57 AM by Larry Harsin
It has 60 HP. It's factory weight was 5200 lbs. The first year was a spur gear trans, like the Supers had. The later productions had helical gear trans. In our area, a tractor like that will bring from $1500 to $2500. Larry
Oliver 525 combine
IP: 68.59.66.210 Posted on May 2, 2004 at 07:38:44 PM by Zeb Owens
I am having difficulty finding a exhaust-intake manifold for my recently purchased combine. Its a chrysler ind. 4.1L 251 flattop engine. Any ideas on where to look for one will be greatly appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver 525 combine
IP: 67.2.249.14 Posted on May 3, 2004 at 01:34:14 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have it. Larry
oliver gas 88
IP: 151.201.129.174 Posted on May 1, 2004 at 08:03:43 PM by harry
I have my engine out and tore down. I have cracks in the block where the liner orings are. I was told it could be reused. Is this true. Thanks harry
Re(1): oliver gas 88
IP: 67.2.248.154 Posted on May 1, 2004 at 11:49:24 PM by Larry Harsin
No! If it is cracked where the "O" rings are, the block is not usable. Larry
oc-46 help
IP: 198.81.26.10 Posted on April 28, 2004 at 02:07:32 PM by mark
I'm working on an oc-46 track loader. It runs perfect for 20 minutes then shuts off when you put it under load. I have changed the plug wires the coil the condenser the cap and the rotor, and cleaned the fuel system it gets plenty of fuel. help!!!!!!!!!!
Re(1): oc-46 help
IP: 67.2.240.168 Posted on April 28, 2004 at 11:33:35 PM by Larry Harsin
When it quits like that, check and see how strong the spark is. You may have a bad connection in the wiring from your ignition switch to the coil. It may be breaking down when it gets warm. You can put a jumper wire from the battery directly to the coil, as a check to see if that is your problem. Larry
Re(2): oc-46 help
IP: 65.117.137.175 Posted on April 29, 2004 at 09:16:20 AM by RockinB
I have an OC3 with a mag that does the same thing.
Re(3): oc-46 help
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 29, 2004 at 10:49:09 PM by j ulmer
I know this will sound crazy to you both, but try this. Glue some aluminum foil to one side of a square of corrugated (two layers with alternating layer between, not single thickness like parts boxes) and tape it between the dist or mag and the engine with the foil toward the motor. See if insulating the coil to keep it from getting as hot helps. You can get a new coil which is bad...they test them but not with them heated up. Dad had a 55 on a High-Trak with a flame cultivator in the 60's and had the same problem . He also had a magignition on a 413 Chrysler irrigation motor that screwed up the same way. Lots of luck!!!
Re(4): oc-46 help
IP: 65.117.137.195 Posted on April 29, 2004 at 11:30:33 PM by RockinB
Interesting,worth a try.Thanks
1600 THREW A LEG OUT OF BED
IP: 216.126.128.52 Posted on April 27, 2004 at 10:35:01 PM by DENNY
MY 1600 DIESEL THREW A LEG OUT OF BED (BROKEN CONNECTING ROD) AERATED THE BLOCK ON BOTH SIDES (SEE THROUGH). DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND A DIESEL ENGINE FOR IT AND WOULD AN ENGINE FROM A 1650 DIESEL FIT IN IT? ON A DIFFERENT QUESTION ARE THE CHECKERBOARD GRILLS INTERCHANGEABLE ON DIFFERENT MODELS?
Re(1): 1600 THREW A LEG OUT OF BED
IP: 67.2.249.226 Posted on April 28, 2004 at 01:34:25 AM by Larry Harsin
I think a 1650 diesel would work, but there are a few things you would have to change. The air cleaner is going to be different. You will have to cut a hole in your hood for it. That is the main difference. I think everything else would hook up. For an engine, you could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl 800-320-6224 or Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. The early checkerboard grills are different from the "B" and "C" series. I know a "55" series grill will work on a "50" series tractor, if the first 2 numbers are the same. Like a 1655 grill would fit a 1650 and a 1755 grill will fit a 1750. Many guys put these on so that they have 2 head lights up front. Larry
1600 power steering
IP: 216.16.55.7 Posted on April 25, 2004 at 10:54:20 PM by Gary Copperstone
Larry; A good friend has a 1963 1600. When he is driving down the road, he constantly has to turn the steering wheel to the left in order to keep from going off the road to the right. Otherwise steering seems normal. Where in the power steering system, or what component do you think might be causing this. Thanks, Gary
Re(1): 1600 power steering IP: 67.2.248.204 Posted on April 26, 2004 at 07:34:37 AM by Larry Harsin
This is a common problem on the 1600's. It is usually in the hydro-motor on the bottom of the steering wheel. The fix is to just replace the complete unit. Larry
Re(2): 1600 power steering
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on April 26, 2004 at 01:01:28 PM by Larry from MD
Replace it with a char-lin unit NOT one like is in there or you will shortly have the problem again.I have done 4 conversions myself and the tractors steer much better and easier.
Re(3): 1600 power steering
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 27, 2004 at 11:54:42 PM by J Ulmer
I have had the same thing on 1486 IHC and 706 IHC with char-lin steering unit. I got repair kit with a new rubber sleeve and stopped problem. The 20 year or 30 year old rubber was so stiff it didn't seal and leakage kept the wheel turning to hold straight. Don't know if you can get them for Oliver from AGCO, but I got one from Case-IHC dealer and other from an industrial hydraulic repair place
Re(2): 1600 power steering
IP: 216.16.57.92 Posted on April 30, 2004 at 04:10:01 PM by Gary Copperstone
Larry from MD: Does the char-lin power steering pump conversion for the 1600 Oliver come as a packaged kit? Can you give me Model # or any other pertinent information. Thanks for your reply, Gary
Re(3): 1600 power steering
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on May 2, 2004 at 03:23:34 PM by Larry from MD
Yes they do come as kits,but i have not bought one.I find a cheap unit and make the parts to fit.
Re(4): 1600 power steering
IP: 67.2.248.221 Posted on May 28, 2004 at 12:54:23 PM by Jim Campbell
I have a 1650 that had the same problem. I took the steering motor out of the 525 combine. The hydrolic fittings were different, but I used the 1650 casting. I put everything I could use out of the 525 into the 1650 casting. It works better now than it ever did since I bought it in 1975. Jim Campbell
880 oliver
IP: 208.5.112.4 Posted on April 25, 2004 at 11:36:03 AM by Marty
When I put a load on my 880 it wants to cough and sputter. I have rebulit the carburetor, and it still coughs. Whats next?
Re(1): 880 oliver
IP: 67.2.249.215 Posted on April 25, 2004 at 09:13:06 PM by Larry Harsin
I would check the little filter on the inlet of the carb. Clean it out. I'd also remove the fuel strainer assembly (unscrew it out of the tank) and make sure there are no obstructions in it. Larry
Re(1): 880 oliver
IP: 208.5.112.4 Posted on April 26, 2004 at 06:57:07 AM by Marty
Thanks, I was worried it was sucking air somewhere.
Re(1): 880 oliver
IP: 205.213.111.50 Posted on May 4, 2004 at 11:10:15 AM by goatfarmer
My brother has/had an 880, and had the same problem and went through everything mentioned here. His problem was an internal crack in the block. Hope that isn't your problem.
clutch on oliver 550 1961
IP: 67.35.179.231 Posted on April 24, 2004 at 10:47:08 PM by tracy stewart
have a great 550 -1961- has been running fine. today was moving slowly downhill -no load- and it quit moving in any gear. suspect engine clutch , any suggestions,location of parts,and tips on R&R clutchwould be welcomed here in kings mtn. n.c.
Re(1): clutch on oliver 550 1961
IP: 67.2.242.16 Posted on April 24, 2004 at 11:38:02 PM by Larry Harsin
If you decide that it is the clutch, you are going to have to split the tractor. The way this is done is a "Z" split. I suggest you obtain a Shop Manual before starting on this project. An I & T Shop Manual will do. You can get one from Mary Ann at the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(2): clutch on oliver 550 1961
IP: 67.35.179.231 Posted on April 25, 2004 at 10:20:06 PM by tracy stewart
thanks, larry, i'll check it out more monday and let you know what i find .tms
Power beyond port location for a 1650
IP: 24.214.75.22 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 10:02:45 PM by Scott Sexton
Purchased a new Bush Hog loader with a power beyond kit, but I am having trouble identifing the "Return Inlet", "Sump Inlet", "Pressure Inlet" location on the 1650. Also does the 1650 have a closed center hydralic system or an open center system?
Re(1): Power beyond port location for a 1650
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on April 24, 2004 at 04:12:39 PM by Larry Harsin
The return inlet is the one above the the flow divider, pointed toward the fender. The sump inlet is the big plug approx. 8 inches below the power steering flow divider. The pressure inlet is above the power steering flow divider pointing forward. I will email a picture of this to you to help you understand. I can't put a picture on this web page. Larry
Re(2): Power beyond port location for a 1650
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on April 24, 2004 at 04:39:55 PM by Larry Harsin
Perhaps I should have said, before you remove that Sump Plug, drain the oil out of the hydraulic unit. Larry
oliver 1955
IP: 64.12.116.14 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 00:20:58 AM by Justin
I am looking for a head gasket kit and also wandered if the 1955 has the same diesel engine as the 1950 or the 1950t.
Re(1): oliver 1955
IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 08:29:30 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get a head gasket kit from Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. As far as I know, the GM diesels engines in the 1955 and the 1950T will interchange. The 1950 doesn't have a Waukesha engine. Larry
Re(2): oliver 1955
IP: 4.160.207.12 Posted on April 23, 2004 at 08:50:53 PM by John
The Oliver 1900 and 1950 had the 4-53 Detroit Diesel, while the 1950T and the 1955 had the 310 waukesha turbocharged diesel engine.
1850 starter
IP: 205.188.116.14 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 10:19:02 PM by steve
I need to rebuild or replace the starter moter from an 1850 diesel. Not sure of the year and it is not nearby. My oliver book says delco model 1113098 (early - I assume 1964 and prior) and 1113139. Do these interchange?
Re(1): 1850 starter
IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 00:20:03 AM by Larry Harsin
As far as I know, they are interchangable. Check with Worthington Ag Parts and ask them about interchangability and their price for a starter. 800-533-5304. Larry
Re(1): 1850 starter
IP: 69.179.34.214 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 02:01:15 AM by Ron Wolf
Don't guess about the model number as there are differences in the solenoid type and wiring connections. Take the starter to a NAPA store. They can sell you a brand new replacement starter for about $125 or a rebuilt for a little less. Many automotive electrical shops rebuild them too.
1800 Oliver C-series
IP: 64.90.76.240 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 07:58:47 PM by Troy Mevissen
I recently rebuilt this tractor and after several hours of running the tractor started to throw water out the overflow. After letting the tractor cool down I removed the radiator cap and started the engine. After several minutes of running water still was not circulating through the radiator. The thermostat has been removed, is this normal, shouldn't there be water circulating while the tractor is running. I checked the eater pump and everything seems functional. Any ideas?
Re(1): 1800 Oliver C-series
IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 00:14:49 AM by Larry Harsin
Sometimes it is hard to see movement of water by looking down into the top of the radiator. I feel that it is probably circulating the water. I think the problem with pushing water out of the top may be due to the fact that you have no thermostat in the engine. I would install one and then try it. Check the Operator's Manual on the cooling system. It will give further explanation. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should get one from Mary Ann at the Museum. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(1): 1800 Oliver C-series
IP: 69.179.34.214 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 07:39:20 AM by Ron Wolf
If the water pump wasn't working, the engine would have been destroyed long before several hours. If the coolant is at the proper level, you shouldn't be able to see it in the radiator when cold as expansion room must be allowed.
Removing the thermostat can actually cause overheating. It can also cause other problems.
Given that the engine was just rebuilt I'd venture to say that the head might be loose and this caused compression to pressurize the cooling system hence the overflow after several hours. I've seen this happen. A radiator shop can sell you some test strips that you dunk in the coolant which detects the presence of combustion gasses.
You can try to retorque the head bolts per the manual and see if that helps. Common head/deck sealing problems are caused by:
1) Head/deck not machined dead flat (check with steel straightedge).
2) Not using new, clean, oiled head bolts.
3) Using wrong gasket and/or not following sealer requirements.
4) Not torquing head bolts in the correct stepped pattern per the manual.
5) Not torquing head bolts to the correct torque spec (requires accurate torque wrench).
super 77 diesel
IP: 66.35.139.202 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 12:45:23 PM by Brian Rotz
Larry, This tractor doesn't get a lot of use, Only have 10 acres mostly pasture, use for bush hogging, planting a little corn, plowing a little etc, noticed a little oil leaking around pto shaft, correct me if wrong, isn't the pto and transmission together as far as oil tank ? Haven't started to restore tractor yet runs great and I use it. Wife even drives it says it handles great.
Re(1): super 77 diesel
IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 00:05:42 AM by Larry Harsin
The PTO output shaft has a separate oil compartment from the transmission. However, in some cases, oil does migrate back from the transmission to the PTO. Remove the test plug on the side of the PTO housing and if oil runs out, just let it run out to the proper level and reinstall the plug. As long as it isn't severe, I wouldn't worry about it. If it is leaking badly, you may have to remedy the problem. It is not abnormal to have a little oil leaking out of the PTO housing. Larry
88 Clutch Shaft/PTO Hub ID Question
IP: 207.230.193.50 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 09:59:20 AM by K. Kilian
I'm getting ready to convert my 88 RC from the older PTO hub that used a bushing to the newer version that used a ball bearing. According to my parts book, a different clutch shaft was used with the ball bearing hub. My questions are:
1. What measurements (shaft length, diameter, etc.) can I use to ID the correct clutch shaft? The parts place I found has several shafts but can't help with ID.
2. Will a clutch shaft from a 77 RC work? I have heard that the 77 is shorter.
3. Are ball-bearing PTO Hubs fairly interchangeable? I have found several that appear similar to the picture in the parts book, but would like to make sure.
Sorry for the length...thanks for the help!
Re(1): 88 Clutch Shaft/PTO Hub ID Question
IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 00:00:54 AM by Larry Harsin
l. The correct clutch shaft is the same length as your 88 clutch shaft. Where the shaft goes in to the pilot bearing, the new shaft is slightly larger at that point. The shaft you are looking for, will have K 579A stamped on it.
2 This is the same shaft that a 77 uses. They are identical.
3.Yes, the hubs are interchangeable from 77 with the ball bearing type through the 880.
If you cannot find these parts where you are looking for them, I have them. You can email me for them. Larry
Re(2): 88 Clutch Shaft/PTO Hub ID Question
IP: 207.230.193.17 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 10:12:32 AM by K. Kilian
Larry, Thanks for the help. Would the PTO Hub from a newer tractor (such as a 1650, etc.) look the same (but not work)? Or did they switch to a different PTO drive setup after the 880? Thanks again.
Re(3): 88 Clutch Shaft/PTO Hub ID Question
IP: 67.2.248.11 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 09:47:49 PM by Larry Harsin
I think a 1650 Drive hub will work. It will be a little thinner. Otherwise, it will look the same. Larry
Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 207.108.124.6 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 05:41:45 PM by wayne gritis
Hi Oliver fans, I recently purchased a property that had an old tractor on it. I knew nothing about it. This past weekend, at our local county fair, I asked some tractor enthusiasts about it. I have learned it is an Oliver Cletrac. I was wondering if you could tell me the year and any other info about it. From the tag on the right side of the engine were the following: 003 42 IND and ICWH-752. It has a bucket in the front that was from Wake manufacturing. Unfortunately it is not running yet (which is why it was on the property still in the first place). Thanks for your help! Wayne
Re(1): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 10:05:24 PM by j ulmer
Go to Larry's home page and hit the HART PARR link. When you get there hit their links and go to www.cletrac.org It has Zimmerman's in Ephrates Penn who have Parts, Knowledge, and expertise. I have seen their web-site and it is good, but I don't know where I got it. I think I googled Cletrac or Zimmerman Lotsa Luck!!
Re(2): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 00:02:18 AM by Larry Harsin
Check this out with Landis Zimmerman. He is a Cletrac Expert and has Sales of Parts and Service. Email him at: zoc@att.net. Some thoughts: I believe your bucket is a Ware, not a Wake. Many of them were made by Ware Mfg in Ware, MA. They are still in business. Also, could the OO3 be OC 3? Larry
Re(3): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 207.108.124.6 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 12:27:38 PM by Wayne Gritis
It would seem that it could be an OC3, I am not at that property to check. I would imagine that my mistake would be akin to finding a car that said EORD and not finding anything about it. That mistake would have added to my confusion as to why I couldn't find anything like it. I will check with Landis. Thank you for your help! Wayne
Re(4): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 12.76.98.24 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 07:01:49 AM by Ray
Hello Thank you for referring us for Cletrac parts. The email zoc@att.net is only a mailstation and receives only text emails. Feel free to use it but it will only recieve up to 8k. Here is our website, Thank you, Ray
Re(5): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 12.76.98.24 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 07:06:35 AM by Ray
Here is the link for Zimmerman Oliver Cletrac website. http://www.oliverinformation.com/zimmerman.html
Re(6): Help identifying Cletrac
IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on April 22, 2004 at 08:35:04 AM by Larry Harsin
Got ya!! I put it in our Rolladex. Sandy
2150 mfd parts
IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 03:40:15 PM by Neal Elbert
Larry, I am looking for a few parts and wondered if you had any of these: -ring gear for the front end. -pinion gear for the front end. -Telescoping steering unit between steering wheel and steering pump. If you do please let me know. Thanks, Neal
Re(1): 2150 mfd parts
IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on May 11, 2004 at 09:43:02 AM by Shep Va
I know where you can get some aftermarket steering cylinders that are a lot cheaper than agco and a lot heavier duty. Check my website for pictures of them and let me know if you want any, I will hook you up with the supplier.
Re(1): 2150 mfd parts
IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 11:52:53 PM by Larry Harsin
No. I don't have. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
oliver 60 ROWCROP 1941
IP: 64.68.174.90 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 12:34:18 PM by Shannon Frericks
the transmission is a 4-speed low and a wide tread rear end 72 to 100 inches!
Re(1): oliver 60 ROWCROP 1941
IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on April 21, 2004 at 00:13:41 AM by Larry Harsin
We have one that is 4 speed. After 1945, they were 5 speed. Your's is wider than the 60's used in this area, but I still wouldn't call it necessarily rare. Larry
1755
IP: 205.213.111.50 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 11:52:26 AM by Tom Considine
Oil leaking from left wheel brake housing. Are there seals that could be bad. How hard to repair? Not leaking bad, but just annoying. Thanks
Re(1): 1755
IP: 69.179.34.214 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 03:12:28 PM by Ron Wolf
Yes there is. You'll need a service manual to fix. But first check the T/FD gear oil level. If it's too high it will overpressure the seals and leak. If allowed to continue it's more than annoying; brakes covered in gear oil make for exciting high-speed stops.
Re(2): 1755
IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 11:50:07 PM by Larry Harsin
It could be something else. There is a possibility it could be hydraulic oil leaking out of the brake piston. You will need a Service Manual to address this problem. Typically, when the brake piston "O" rings start leaking, it can be caused by the brake linings being worn excessively, thus allowing the brake piston to travel too far and allowing oil to escape into the brake. You can get a Shop Manual for this tractor from Mary Ann at email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
(Valves & Bushings for 66)
IP: 64.91.148.236 Posted on April 19, 2004 at 08:14:10 AM by mark
Can you tell me a place to buy engine valves, and a pilot bushing for my Oliver 66?
Re(1): Valves & Bushings for 66
IP: 67.2.248.183 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 06:36:07 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(2): Valves & Bushings for 66
IP: 64.91.149.191 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 10:39:46 AM by mark Thank you so much, I called Tom. He was very helpful. Thank you again. Mark
1655
IP: 209.143.34.162 Posted on April 19, 2004 at 05:51:48 AM by Wayne
Hi Larry, The clutch is starting to slip a little on the 1655D. In conversations with the previous owner he indicated that he had replaced the clutch twice.This tractor only has 3700 Hrs.Is this normal?? Is there a heavier clutch assy? As always thanks for your help.
Re(1): 1655
IP: 69.179.15.239 Posted on April 19, 2004 at 06:51:57 AM by Ron Wolf
Clutch life depends on proper setup (free play) and proper operation (not riding the clutch). Three in 3,700 hours is not normal. One thing to check for when you have it split is that too often the clutch is replaced without replacing or at least resurfacing the flywheel. This causes the clutch to slip and wear excessively. Also go over the other clutch parts and replace anything that is not perfect.
Re(2): 1655
IP: 67.2.248.183 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 06:32:39 AM by Larry Harsin
Depending on what you already have, there may be a heavier one for it. Very possibly there could be a rear main seal leaking oil, or oil coming from the hydraul input seal, causing the slippage. Having to replace the clutch twice in 3700 hrs. is not normal. Larry
Re(3): 1655
IP: 67.32.65.172 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 09:50:53 PM by George Steadman
Just went thru this with a neighbor's tractor, there has to be a considerable amount more free play to keep from pushing the fingers in to far. There is a bulletin from White with instructions; really made a difference in this instance.
Internet site
IP: 66.163.147.76 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 10:23:39 PM by karl
Larry, larry from md and the other very helpful experts -- Thanks for the informative site. I have been a faithful reader for six months and have learned alot about Olivers. Please keep up the site. It is very, very worthwhile. Thanks again.
Re(1): Internet site
IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on April 18, 2004 at 11:34:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Karl. Thank you for your compliments. Larry and I enjoy the website and hearing from all of you Oliver Lovers. We are happy we can help you out when we can. Sandra Harsin
Re(2): Internet site
IP: 198.152.12.68 Posted on April 19, 2004 at 01:08:57 PM by Mitch
I agree whole hartly with Karl this is a great web site for learning and talking to people that are willing to help. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK and THANKS FOR EVERYTHING
Re(3): Internet site
IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 20, 2004 at 08:11:21 AM by J Ulmer
Double Ditto and Amen!!