1800 B hydraulics getting hot

IP: 70.97.230.60 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 07:22:33 PM by Jeff Oliver

I bought this tractor back in January and thought it was in pretty good shape. I have since found out otherwise but I have always wanted one sooo. My problem now is that today I was baling hay with it and the hydraulic unit under the seat got really hot. I was not using the hydraulics any other than the steering which I still haven't gotten around to tightening up the play in the unit under the radiator yet. I did have to shim the relief valve? on the divider to get my operating pressure up for the steering. Would for some reason the PTO cause this to get hot? As in hot enoughto see the oil that seeped out bubble. I can' think of a reason why it should but I have never been inside of the unit so I don't know. I know it looked like I had a little oil seep up around the gear shifter also but I had checked it earlier and it was full and not overfilled. On the hydraulic unit I also have a line attached to the front outlet on the left side.When I turn the tractor on this immediatly has pressure on it at all times. Is this supposed to be right? I had gone down the road a total of about 6 miles and baled around 80 bales in two places when I noticed this. Not knowing about it I stopped and got another tractor to finish with. I am going to check the I&T manual tonight and see if it tells me anything but I have had more luck getting information from people who have first hand experience on these things. One of the biggest problems I have is that I live in JD.IH,and AC country with few Olivers ever around here so I don't know of any good older mechanics to talk to. Heck at the rate I am going with this tractor I might wind up being the OLD OLIVER mechanic around here! LOL! I apologize for the long letter but hopefully I have described my problem enough for you to help me in the right direction. If all else fails I guess I can sell this one and start on the 1650 we just acquired a couple of months ago. Hoping to keep both and use them though. Thanks alot!!! Jeff Oliver

Re(1): 1800 B hydraulics getting hot

IP: 70.224.33.187 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 07:54:57 PM by 90%ret'd

Do the remote valves and 3pt. work? Does this line return into the top cover of the unit? The line you mentioned should not have more than 100 PSI unless you are turning the steering wheel or using one of the hydraulic valves,remotes or three point hitch. The first thing to try is to lower the 3pt hitch 3or 4 inches, pressure on the hose should drop, if this reduces the pressure on that hose you need to adjust the turnbuckle on the three pt. hitch control to provide 2 to 3 in. of free play at the end of the lower arms when the 3 pt. lever is all the way to the rear of the quadrant. If the 3pt. and remotes don't work then most likely the hydraulics have been set up as power beyond and you will need to look at a shop manual or the operator's manual on the correct power beyond connctions, we will try to help

Re(2): 1800 B hydraulics getting hot

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 09:13:32 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is: Is the 3 pt. pumping at the top of the stroke? There's a linkage at the bottom of the 3pt. hitch control lever to adjust this. It's a turn-buckle with a lock nut on it. If this thing is running up tight at the top of the stroke, it will cause pressure in your other hydraulic outlets. There should be info in the Operator's Manual about adjusting this. Otherwise, it is covered in the Shop Manual. There should be at least an inch of free travel at the top of the stroke, after after the arms quit raising. Larry

Re(3): 1800 B hydraulics getting hot

IP: 70.97.230.60 Posted on September 6, 2005 at 00:26:56 AM by Jeff Oliver

I'll try that, I didn' think about the three point being up at the top and making the pump hot but it makes sense now. I know where that turnbuckle is and will check the arms tomorrow and see. If they are tight I'll adjust the turnbuckle and see what that does. Makes sense because all I have done with it till now is move hay with a fork and usually had the arms down until picking up a roll.

Alternator wiring on a 77RC

IP: 4.231.134.0 Posted on September 4, 2005 at 09:51:17 PM by Mark Kincaid

I have a 1951 77 RC that has a 3 wire GM 12 volt alternator. The wiring was mostly gone when I got it and now I am not sure of the proper schematic for the alternator. According to the diagrams that I can find the Bat. post and the #2 spade connection both go to any direct connection to the positive battery terminal. The #1 wire is my hold up. All diagrams send it to the amp meter. The alternator is good or was if I have not blown the diodes. The amp meter appears to be original so I assume it is 6 volt. Any suggestions or diagrams that you know will solve my problem?

Re(1): Alternator wiring on a 77RC

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 09:19:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I would caution you to use an ammeter that shows at least 50 amps on the dial. The original ammeter on your tractor will not survive an alternator. It's not that the 6 volt or 12 volt makes any difference, it is that you need a larger meter. Larry

2050 overheat

IP: 207.254.120.244 Posted on September 2, 2005 at 10:36:47 PM by Curt

Thanks to everyone that helped me with my HOT 2050. I fixed the problem by installing a new heat guage. It runs nice and cool. I just ran it for 10 hours straight and it never ran hot. Sometimes problems are smaller than we think. Now, does anyone have suggestions for my headache caused by being in that cab for 10 hours straight? Thanks again.

Re(1): 2050 overheat

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 3, 2005 at 09:10:17 PM by J. Ulmer

can't help on this one, but use earplugs or earmuffs and it might head off the NEXT one!!

Re(2): 2050 overheat

IP: 68.47.4.66 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 07:12:53 AM by JDH

Just be thankful it's not a detroit. Then you would have a migraine!

1650 HYDRO

IP: 207.231.118.232 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 05:53:55 AM by CORRE K

MY 1650 DIESEL TWO SPEED HYDRO SEEMS TO CHATTER WHEN INDER A LOAD AS GOING UP A HILL OR PULLING HARD I CHANGED FLIUD AND FILTER BUT IT DIDNT HELP THERE WAS NO METAL ON THE PLUG THANK YOU FOR ANY ADVICE

Re(1): 1650 HYDRO

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 08:04:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the direct drive clutch is slipping. It could be low pressure or it could be leakage in the clutch itself, so that it isn't holding enough pressure to keep the clutch from slipping. You are probably going to have to tear the unit down to correct the problem. Larry

Re(2): 1650 HYDRO

IP: 207.231.118.106 Posted on September 2, 2005 at 05:55:52 AM by CORRE K

IS THIS A HARD THING TO WORK ON OR IS IT BETTER TO TAKE IT SOME WHARE AFTER I GET IT OUT I HAVE A BOOK BUT I DONT THINK I HAVE THE STUFF TO CHECK THE PRESSURES THANK YOU FOR THE HELP

Re(3): 1650 HYDRO

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 09:04:40 PM by Larry Harsin

If you don't have the correct tools, perhaps you should take it to someone who does. Just use your own good judgement and go from there. Larry

S55 diesel cyl. head

IP: 63.18.134.255 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 00:05:04 AM by Mike Dawson

I have a S55 diesel that has spun a rod bearing. When I tore down the engine I found that the energy cell opening on #2 cyl. was clogged which let the fuel drop on to the piston. The pre-ignition pounded the rod bearing into a piece of foil and did extensive damage to the piston and head. It probably will be cheaper to find a used head and rebuild it rather than try to repair the original head. My question is, are the 550 head (casting 181502) and S55/S66 head (181402) interchangable? If so it would make the search a bit easier. Thanks

Re(1): S55 diesel cyl. head

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 08:01:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I think they would interchange. The 2 heads may require different valves, however. But I think the heads will interchange. Larry

Re(2): S55 diesel cyl. head

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on September 3, 2005 at 00:45:00 AM by Larry

You may need to check the manifold as well. I just replaced the head on my Super 55 Diesel. When I was shopping someone told me some 550's had manifolds different from the Super 55's. I never had the two heads side by side to make the comparison. I still have the old super 55 head.

1950 Oliver 88 Standard

IP: 142.56.86.20 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 01:20:05 PM by Jason

Hi Larry, I just recently purchased an Oilver 88 standard gas tractor, and was wondering a couple of things. First the decals on the side of the tractor, should the numbers be red or yellow. and just how reliable a tractor it is. Any info would be great

Re(1): 1950 Oliver 88 Standard

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 08:36:19 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has the Fleetline styling, they would be yellow numbers. Only the very earliest 88's had the red numbers. In my experience the Oliver 88 Standard is a very reliable tractor. To me, when it is completely restored, it is one of the prettiest tractors that Oliver ever built. Larry

1855 gas timing

IP: 65.87.41.77 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 09:58:40 AM by mike gooch

larry could you tell me the timing, plug gap, & ignition gap on my 1855 gas tractor. It's a 1972 6 cylinder. Also I have a 69 1850 disel. I need a new block heater&plug Would you have one. thank you mike.

Re(1): 1855 gas timing

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 08:32:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I set the timing at approx. 22 degrees before Top Dead Center with the engine running at full throttle. The vaccum advance line should be disconnected and plugged, also. The plug gap is .025. The ignition (point gap) gap, with the Holley Dist. is .025. With the Mallory, it is .022. For a block heater and plug, call your AGCO Dealer. Or, you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. This block heater screws into the water inlet elbow on the lower radiator hose. Larry

oil pressure drop

IP: 63.28.36.47 Posted on August 29, 2005 at 07:27:23 PM by Wil Thomas

Hello Larry, I have a perplexing problem with my super 55. When I start out mowing, ( I just started having this problem ) my oil pressure is fine ( Upper working range ) As I go ( About 20 minutes or so ) The pressure starts to drop off, ( to below working range ) going down hill or sidehill, ( right side downhill) As I level out, go uphill, or sidehill left, the pressure comes back up. After about 30-35 minutes, the pressure stays low. ( At or below center on the gage.) I am using a 5/30 weight oil. Could this be to light? Or is my pump going south? Many thanks for your help!! Wil

Re(1): oil pressure drop

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 07:21:41 PM by bradk

Wil,I'm assuming your super 55 is a gas model since 5w-30 isn't approved for diesel use.I would start over & change oil & filter using sae30,15w-40, or better yet,synthetic 20w-50. 5w-30 is just too light for an old engine where clearances might not be as close as a new engine.This will get you started.~brad

Re(2): oil pressure drop

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 08:08:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Brad. 5/30 is too light of oil for that engine. I would put 15/40 in that engine and try it. Larry

oliver super 55

IP: 65.160.153.230 Posted on August 29, 2005 at 01:02:25 PM by Peter Lex

I have flushed and sealed the fuel tank, replaced the sediment bowl and I still seem to run out of fuel when there is still 2 or 3 gallons in tank, seems like little flow out of sediment bowl after the tractor runs for a short while, the lines are new and the carb has been completly gone through any ideas thanks Peter

Re(1): oliver super 55

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 00:02:49 AM by J. Ulmer

Did you replace the entire sediment bowl assembly or just your glass? If your screen assembly has grown over, low level fuel results in not enough "HEAD PRESSURE" to force sufficient fuel through the open apperatures of the screen where as a full tank gives enough weight to flow sufficient. If your sediment bowl has corrision where the needle seats in the shut off valve that could do the same thing. If you have fuel and you disconnect the fuel line to the carb and fuel doesn't pour out, something is stopped up restricting your gravity fuel flow out of the supply tank.

Re(2): oliver super 55

IP: 65.160.153.230 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 10:18:36 AM by Peter Lex

Complete new asembly, I have replaced the sedement bowl asembly, lines and inline filter, it did the same thing with the old one, I have also taken the sediment bowl completly apart and inspected it, the tank has been acid washed and sealed with seal coat tank sealer, I have checked the tank vent and outlet. On antoher web site another guy was have the same trouble unless he kept his tank above 2 or 3 gallons, but he has had no replies. The sediment bowl seems to flow good for a short bit then the flow is cut to about 1/4, like it vapor locked but its no warm engough for that to be the case, thanks Peter

Re(3): oliver super 55

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 08:26:31 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what else to add. That would have been the things I would have checked out. Larry

Re(4): oliver super 55

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 09:48:53 PM by J>Ulmer

Heat causes a vapor lock in fuel boiling in the carburetor itself and the lines to it...you are not getting fuel out of the tank itself. Try to see if the fuel flow stops flowing with the cap off the fuel tank so you KNOW you are not getting a vacuum holding fuel flow back. Your tank sealant could be flapped over stopping venting. Good Luck! Jerry

Re(5): oliver super 55

IP: 65.160.153.230 Posted on August 31, 2005 at 09:09:29 AM by Peter Lex

last night I took out the sediment bowl asy. and put in a 1/2 pipe nipple with a 3/8 barbed hose and ran the tractor for a 1/2 hour, never ran low on fuel, the filter stayed full to the whole time, not sure why 2 sediment bowl asy, would have the same problem, I noticed the tank drain is almost level with the sediment bowl, do you supose under the fuel level of 2 or 3 gallons that there is not engough head pressure for the sediment bowl to work?

Re(6): oliver super 55

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on September 5, 2005 at 09:21:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Larry

Oliver Literature

IP: 69.66.31.175 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 06:40:05 PM by Luke

I am wondering where a good place to buy 4-digit literature and manuals would be, prefferably on the internet. Thanks, Luke

Re(1): Oliver Literature

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 09:40:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I would reccommend the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City for the Manuals. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net For literature, I would contact Jerry Erickson, 507-325-4745. Larry

old oliver

IP: 70.105.245.205 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 05:51:06 PM by GerryLavery

I have I believe an880 circa 1960 something. S/N 91-659-872, cannot find number on lists. posted a picture under oliver gerry at yesteryear tractor. Any help with I.D. would be appreciated, and where to get parts. Thanks Gerry

Re(1): old oliver

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 09:35:42 PM by Larry Harsin

An 880 with that serial number (91659) was built in 1960. The last 3 numbers has to do with gearing etc that was put into the tractor when it was built. Larry

Re(2): old oliver

IP: 70.105.245.205 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 10:31:37 PM by Gerry

Thanks Larry, How'd you match the serial. Can I get a Manual, And parts for it. Such as, Clutch, Radiator etc...

Re(3): old oliver

IP: 4.188.132.48 Posted on August 27, 2005 at 00:00:55 AM by Jerry

You can get parts through any agco dealer, and a manual through Floyd Co. Museum email them at fchs@fiai.net

Re(4): old oliver

IP: 67.2.249.254 Posted on August 27, 2005 at 11:31:29 PM by Larry Harsin

We reccommend getting manuals from the Museum in Charles City as Jerry says. It helps them keep the doors open on all of the Oliver stuff. They were given all of the paperwork when the Oliver Factory there closed. Email fchs@fiai.net You can get parts from any AGCO Dealer or many other places such at Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. Larry

Drawbar Assembly for RC 66

IP: 12.47.68.106 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 09:19:59 PM by Mary Lou Jones

Hello Larry: Will the drawbar assembly from an Oliver RC 60 fit on a 1952 RC 66? Thanks.

Re(1): Drawbar Assembly for RC 66

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 09:32:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It might work, but I think it will be a little light. The 60 drawbar isn't as heavy. I'd rather put on a drawbar from a 77. Larry

1950 GM Engine

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 11:16:16 AM by J.P.

A friend of mine has a 1950 with a blown engine and he would like to find one. can anybody help him out??

Re(1): 1950 GM Engine

IP: 67.2.249.129 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 09:30:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm afraid I can't help you on this one. Larry

Re(2): 1950 GM Engine

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 26, 2005 at 10:48:39 PM by J. Ulmer

The 1950 used a Detroit Diesel 4-53 two-stroke engine. The 4 designates 4 cylinders and the 53 is 53 cubic inches per cylinder. GM furnished these as industrial power for all sorts of OEM applications. The older two cycle engines were 53 series, 71 series, and 92 series. Parts in series interchange really well, but their are 4 cylinders, 2 cylinders, 3cylinders, V-6 and in-line six, and v-8s and the big bores had v-12 and v-16. For your tractor find another 4cylinder 53 series motor. You may have to use your old manifolds as they can be set up with left or right side blowers and exhausts swapped and accessories changed around, but the block, crank, and heads are the same. In busses they often were run backwards so you might have to swap the parts around, but most busses had the 6-71. Find a shop or construction contractor that works on paving machinery and they can point you toward your local sources. There are a lot of industrial supply places which have all sorts of military and industrial takeouts and you should have little trouble finding a replacement as they were used for 30 years by industry until EPA and fuel efficiency in late 70's and early 80's forced them to go to 4-stroke with computer enhanced fueling. Sorry to be long winded, but hope this points you to reviving your tractor. Jerry

Re(3): 1950 GM Engine

IP: 69.66.31.175 Posted on August 29, 2005 at 07:56:02 AM by Luke

It isn't that tough to find a 4-53 in this area. For the most part, the 4-53 was used mostly in industrial equipment -loaders, graders, and the like. Other applictaions were rairoad repair equipment, and there were a few used in medium duty trucks. The best place to look would be a construction equipment salvage yard. There is one here in Iowa that I buy whole engines from ( i work on Detroits for fun). By the way, what's wrong ith the engine in the 1950?

Re(4): 1950 GM Engine

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on August 30, 2005 at 08:23:19 AM by J.P.

Luke, I am pretty sure the old mans son got it hot enough to lock it up. All I know it is stuck. Tractor has sat out for 15 years this way. Not sure why he wants to fool with it it looks like a parts tractor to me but he said he loved the old thing. I will tell him your alls ideas about consrtuction equipment. Thanks J.P.

1958 Super 55 Backhoe

IP: 69.37.32.48 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 02:47:23 AM by Bill

I posted a question on this machine last week and now have more info. I belive it to be 1958 Super 55 spec number 15-0008 s/n 23582-518. The machine is painted yellow it has a front mounted pump the pto shift and shaft holes are empty and covered with blocking plates. It has a backhoe and bucket loader. my questions are what year is it. Is it a super 55. Did it come like this from the factory. what parts will I need to make the pto operational again thank you in advance Bill

Re(1): 1958 Super 55 Backhoe

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 06:40:47 AM by Larry Harsin

My book says that that serial number is a 1955 S55. I'm guessing that it came like that from the factory, although that is not necessarily true. There is a good chance that you will have to have a complete PTO system including clutches and gearing. The tractor would have to be split and taken apart to put this in. Larry

4-78-15 backhoe ?

IP: 216.106.88.64 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 09:18:14 PM by Jason Epperson

The local Deere dealer has a White 4-78-15 tractor loader backhoe for sale. I talked to the salesman and he said that he used it for a couple of hours and the only thing wrong is that it is hard to start when it gets warmed up. I believe that this tractor is a 1655 diesel engine. What would cause this tractor to be hard to start?

Re(1): 4-78-15 backhoe ?

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 06:35:12 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, the engine could be tired (low compression). Next thing could be weak batteries, bad cables or a starter that needs to be serviced. These are the things I would check out first. That is a 1655 engine with 283 cu. in. Larry

55 or Super 55?

IP: 198.234.216.213 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 05:40:44 PM by Tom York

How can I tell if my 55 is a Super or is there not a difference?

Re(1): 55 or Super 55?

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 06:31:56 AM by Larry Harsin

All of the 55's were Super 55's. There was never a straight 55. They had a 550 which was an upgrade of the S55. It also has the paint scheme of Meadow Green and Clover White. Larry

row crop 77

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 03:50:44 PM by J.P.

Just bought this tractor from a tractor puller. Want to put her back to as original as I can. I don't know much at all about an oliver cut my teeth on IH stuff but have come to love these old ollies!! She needs a draw bar and the hitch that holds it on. It has a toggle type switch on the steering collum that has three wires coming out of it I assume this is the hydraulics?? needs belt pulley and an air cleaner, lights and so on and so on. Gave 1000.00 bucks but it runs real well. Hope i did not get taken on this. I guess my question is how do I get the hyd to work? also did any of these tractors have a three point hitch? any info on this tractor would be greatly appreciated. She is located in central ky and I dont belive there is a dealr for olivers in ky. Thanks J.P.

Re(1): row crop 77

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 06:28:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I have most of the parts that you will need. I would reccommend that you get a Series 3 hydraulic system for this tractor if you plan to use the hydraulics. I wish you would call me so that we can talk about this. I will be gone today, but will be home this evening. 712-362-2966 You can get reproduction lights from Korves Bros Oliver. Email: korves@htc.net Larry

Re(2): row crop 77

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 10:52:11 AM by J.P.

I will get the #s off of it before I call in case they may make a difference in what parts I need. I spoke with the man I bought it from and he has the air cleaner pto lever but the X piece that holds the draw bar on has been modified and he dose not have a draw bar. The lights and stuff are no big deal but I want to be able to pull a drag type mower with it asap. Thnaks for the reply!!

Servo Valve 1550

IP: 12.150.32.66 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 09:11:41 AM by Dave Drury

Larry, My three point hitch doesn't work on my 1550. I figure it is the servo valve, either O rings on base or internal. I took the oil out and the top off (don't forget the long bolt; I did for a while ) bolts out of servo...........do you need to take the forks off the hydraulic levers to get at the snap ring on the link to three point hitch lever. I slept since I've done that......what is the best tool to use for that snap ring? A very looooong needle nose plier perhaps? Also, what is the trick to line up the yokes with the valves when putting the top back on. I got lucky and got them back on and working, but what is the proper proceedure? Anything else I should check while I'm in there? I was told there was a 1/4 inch street L in there to check, but I didn't see any broken or otherwise.

Re(1): Servo Valve 1550

IP: 4.249.108.34 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 12:25:46 PM by Larry from MD

There is a larger elbow on the 3 point safty valve that breaks.When this happens everything works except the 3point.The valve will be laying in the bottem of the pan. It can be hard to see ,but if you fish around with a stiff wire you can find it.The whole unit has to be removed if its broke.

Re(2): Servo Valve 1550

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 25, 2005 at 06:20:02 AM by Larry Harsin

If you got it so that it works, you have it covered. Otherwise, if the 3 pt. is not working yet, the 1/4" street L that you mentioned is likely the culprit. If this breaks, the relief valve for the 3 pt. hitch cylinder will be laying in the oil pan. As Larry says, if this is the case, the complete hydraulic system has to be removed from the tractor. As far as procedure on what you did is concerned, it sounds about the same way as I remove the servo and install it. Larry

1850 pre-buy inspection

IP: 209.215.39.26 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 10:06:46 PM by Dean Wiesbrook

Hello guy's, I need your help. Going to look at a 1850 Diesel for possible purchase, from a friend of a friend. Can you all tell me what to look or lookout for. Have not been around farming much sence my parents (Oliver farmers) sold out 30 some yrs back, I was in High School at the time. My wife and I now have some land to play in and I would like to do it again with Oliver. What's that about taking the farm out of the boy? Any help will be appreciated. THANKS, Dean P.S. All I know so for is, it has a Perkins diesel.

Re(1): 1850 pre-buy inspection

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 07:28:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Find out when it was last overhauled. What has been done to it? Look for leaks. Does it start easy and run well? Is the tractor complete (all of the side tins, etc)? Does the steering and hydraulics work well? The condition of the tires. Larry

Re(2): 1850 pre-buy inspection

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 11:15:15 PM by J. Ulmer

Like Larry says: look at it and run it. He didn't itemize everything as he can glance at something like tin, tires, and leaks, but you need to pay attention to the details like are the filters relatively new from regular servicing or rusted from the factory, battery posts corroded, movable linkages ( like steering ) clean and fresh greased or turned to asphalt paving or silvered iron shavings. If someone has cared for a piece of equipment it will show as will someone who rode it hard and put it up wet. The tell tale signs with operational observations and checking the exhaust smoke (and the inside of the exhaust pipe) will give you good clues as to condition.

550 pto clutch

IP: 69.87.132.88 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:20:15 PM by Alan

I have a 1964 550 that the pto clutch has gone out. I have available to me a good used Super 55 pto clutch. They are different looking but can I interchange them and is the more modern pto a better one? I could rebuild the current clutch if need be. Thank you for your assistance.

Re(1): 550 pto clutch

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 07:24:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It shoud be evident by looking, if the new plates will work. I'm sure the 550 clutch is the better version. I would get the parts and fix the 550 one. Get them from your nearest AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9932. Larry

OLIVER 1800

IP: 65.110.99.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 02:35:45 PM by TIFFANY

WE HAVE A RESTORED OLIVER 1800. SERIAL # 124940844,MODEL # 28-2206. MY RESEARCH SHOWS IT SHOULD BE A 1962B?? PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG AND ALSO THE TRACTOR IS A DIESEL, WHAT IS THE HORSEPOWER?? THANX TIFFANY

Re(1): OLIVER 1800

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on August 24, 2005 at 07:19:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number for your 1800 B Series tractor is 124940. The last 3 numbers have to do with the gearing etc. that was put into the tractor. It is a 1962, as you say. The diesel model has 77 HP. Larry

70 oil pan gasket install

IP: 209.150.116.56 Posted on August 22, 2005 at 11:44:09 PM by Keith M

I have a '38 70RC with the 5-gear engine and I'd like to know the best way to install the oil pan gaskets. The new gaskets I have for the front and rear filler blocks look like they are longer than they need to be. The pieces are 1/4" thick by 5/8" wide by 12" long. Should they be trimmed to length? Also are the filler block gaskets supposed to fit in the groove in the filler block or sit on top of the groove. Since the rear main seal is part of the rear filler block will we have any problems with that leaking now that it's been disturbed to remove the old pan gasket material under it? Should we install a new rear main seal anyway? Any suggestions on sealants?

Re(1): 70 oil pan gasket install

IP: 67.2.248.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:34:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I would replace the rear main seal while I have the pan off. I normally don't trim the ends off of the horseshoe shaped gaskets. I do put them in the grooves. I would use a non-hardening or number 2 gasket sealant. Larry

oliver plows

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on August 22, 2005 at 09:47:00 PM by AL

I have an oliver semi-mounted 3-16 plows I was plowing and my safety tripped on the plows how do I reset the one bottom that tripped.

Re(1): oliver plows

IP: 67.2.248.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:30:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Simply back up. Larry

oliver plow

IP: 71.10.47.8 Posted on August 22, 2005 at 03:28:58 PM by Echo Darling

I have an Oliver plow Raydex Nc 210-16M. can you tell me the year or give me a website that can give me any information about my plow?

Re(1): oliver plow

IP: 67.2.248.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:29:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

1958 super 55

IP: 69.37.227.214 Posted on August 19, 2005 at 03:41:02 PM by Bill Weiss

just picked up a super 55 that I am told is a 1958 this tractor has a front mounted pump and a loader and a backhoe there are tags on everything but have not been able to read them is this a tractor that has been fitted with these tools or a from the factory backhoe thank you in advance Bill

Re(1): 1958 super 55

IP: 67.2.248.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:20:25 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be either way. Larry

SUPER 88 HYDRAULICS

IP: 63.230.59.122 Posted on August 19, 2005 at 10:24:25 AM by Ray

When I bought my Super 88 earlier this year it came with what looks like a New Idea loader with a trip bucket. During restoration I removed the auxiliary hydraulic fluid reservoir. Now I'm thinking about restoring the loader and putting it back on. Would the standard 2-lever hydraulic unit have enough oomph to run the loader without the auxiliary fluid tank? Thanks!

Re(1): SUPER 88 HYDRAULICS

IP: 170.215.45.244 Posted on August 19, 2005 at 12:03:43 PM by Mike

Ray, I myself would put the tank back on.

Re(2): SUPER 88 HYDRAULICS

IP: 216.114.209.245 Posted on August 19, 2005 at 06:50:03 PM by lyle

Ray if you were not going to use this much you might get buy but what will happen is the oil will boil out of the top of the resivoir if you let the loader down to fast

Re(3): SUPER 88 HYDRAULICS

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on August 22, 2005 at 08:09:14 PM by bradk

I have an 880 With a Paulson trip,and a super 77 with a Schwartz hydraulic bucket. I don't have an auxillary on either and have no problems.Don't over-fill the unit & you should be OK.~brad

Re(4): SUPER 88 HYDRAULICS

IP: 67.2.248.172 Posted on August 23, 2005 at 07:18:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try it and if it works o.k., o.k. But if it doesn't, you'll have to put the tank back on. Larry

Frame ID

IP: 4.188.211.247 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 10:41:48 PM by Jerry

I am looking at a oliver tractor minus motor and tin for parts but don't know for sure what motor it had or the year. The serial plate # is 47-1401 on top and 142 421 - 736 on the bottom. Any help would be great. Thanks

Re(1): Frame ID

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 10:52:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It would really help if you would say the model of the tractor. I am guessing that it is a 100 series tractor. It could be a late 1600, making it a 1963. It would have had an Oliver Waukesha engine 265 cu. in. Larry

Re(2): Frame ID

IP: 4.188.212.85 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 11:35:25 PM by Jerry

I think it was a 770

Re(3): Frame ID

IP: 67.2.249.117 Posted on August 17, 2005 at 07:22:48 AM by Larry Harsin

In a 770, that would be a 1964 model. That would also be a Waukesha engine 216 cu. in. Larry

looking for axle

IP: 24.128.36.187 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 01:33:23 PM by Skip Hird

Looking for axle part #MA699F for White /Oliver #263-72007(same axle as 770 Oliver), also retainer cap #M701-A or retainer assembly #MS701-A. any ideas where they can be purchased? Email cherylle@pocketmail.com

Re(1): looking for axle

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 10:46:09 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ollie Schaefer 618-664-3050 or email: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry

lucas additive

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on August 15, 2005 at 05:35:45 PM by john

hello love this site, have a 550 gas that leaks hydaulic/tranmission fluid onto the rear wheels can i put lucas to seal the seals??

Re(1): lucas additive

IP: 67.2.242.39 Posted on August 16, 2005 at 07:57:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Anything is worth a try. You will probably have to replace the seals. Larry

88/880

IP: 63.169.216.161 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 08:30:50 PM by Gary

Larry, I see in your updated list of parts that you have a good running 880 engine. I have an 88 gas that runs but is really tired. Would that 880 motor drop into the 88 without much trouble or would it be more feesable to have the 88 overhauled. I would be able to swap motors as I have pulled motors and done minor repairs before, but I'm not up to an overhaul yet. I figured If the 880 motor dropped in I could use the extra power and I wouldn't loose as much time as pulling my motor and sending it out. Appreciate the help and thanks for your time. Gary

Re(1): 88/880

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:02:34 PM by J. Ulmer

Larry & Sandy left to go to a show in Canada for a couple of weeks. Check the "Vacation" post a week or so back. Hence it will be a few days till you get a reply. Ron has been sharing technical expertise from somewhere else. He may answer or someone else as to exchange questions, but the Harsins will have to return to help on his inventory.

Re(2): 88/880

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:46:19 PM by Larry Harsin

We are home!!! Yes, the 880 engine will work in your 88. I still have it. Email me or call me and we will discuss it. 712-362-2966. Thanks, Jerry for helping out while we were gone. Larry

1950 trany problem

IP: 68.115.5.11 Posted on August 12, 2005 at 08:44:08 AM by MikeOwi

I posted this on the Oliver forum on Yesterday's Tractors and was wondering if you have anything to add. Post #1 Well we got the trany apart and the upper shaft out. It was indeed a frozen gear on the shaft and the bearings were out. One problem is that the back or rear most bearing holder for the upper shaft is cracked on the bottom. The crack is both visable and can be felt, however it does not appear to be cracked any where else. How critical is this to the operation of the tractor. We don't use this tractor for much field work except for running an irrigation pump. We also have found that some of the lower gears have a wobble in them, that they are loose on the shaft. Do I have a potential nightmare on my hands or if these two items are not critical, will it be ok. I don't know if anyone else has see this. I do have a 1955 with a weak engine and I could make one tractor out of the two. Any good ideas would be helpful since we need to determine our next step. Thanks Post #2 am still trying to determine if the crack is a problem or not. the bearing holder is part of the casting that the back edge of the trany cover and the front edge of the hydraulic cover bolts to. It is stronger on top than on the bottom. A cone shaped bearing that has its own race runs in the holder. I just need to know if this will run without repair or am I looking at problem that will litterally explode in the future. Any more info would be appreciated. Thanks again.

Re(1): 1950 trany problem

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:41:33 PM by Larry Harsin

If the gears are loose on that bottom shaft, I'm afraid all of your work will be in vain. I believe I would opt to make one tractor out of the 2. Larry

super 55

IP: 205.174.159.46 Posted on August 12, 2005 at 08:36:05 AM by harold angles

I have a super 55 gas and the trans gear oil is leaking through the frount of the housing into the pto clutch housing. I rebuilt the trans and put new seals in around the output shafts. why is it leaking ? shoud I go with oversized seals or is there something else happening? bearing ect. thanks p.s. is there a rebuild kit for steering box ? harold

Re(1): super 55

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:36:52 PM by Larry Harsin

You must have missed something or did something wrong when you replaced the seals. Possibly one of the seals in backward. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 about your steering box problem. They both rebuild them. Larry

American 80

IP: 71.0.9.34 Posted on August 12, 2005 at 06:32:34 AM by Anthony Thomas

I have a American 80 a real nice outfit. I'm having problems with the lift arms setling when the engine is shut off and they surge some when the engine is running. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This tractor has 3000 hrs on it and runs great and is a pleasure to operate.

Re(1): American 80

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:32:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm suspecting that there is a check ball not seating in the servo valve. You'll have to remove the lid on the hydraulic system to get at it. Pump the oil out of the unit before removing the lid. The check valve that I suspect is at the top front of the valve. Otherwise, your problem may be deeper in the unit. Such as bad "O" rings on the lift cylinder. Larry

Re(2): American 80

IP: 69.69.42.141 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 02:34:33 PM by anthony

I'm having same problem with my 1365. I Rebuilt the cylinder put in new seals but the lift wants to settle when tractor is not running and also wants to settle when tractor is idled down.

Re(3): American 80

IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 06:52:32 AM by Larry Harsin

This settling when the engine is shut off, is not abnormal. Sometimes you cannot cure that completely. Larry

1650 diesel (pump)

IP: 207.231.118.176 Posted on August 12, 2005 at 05:30:24 AM by corre k

I was wonder if there is any way to check the settings on the fuel injector pump i checked the low end pressure and it is in close spec the problem is it seems to be low on fuel at wide open throttle it kinda flutters and seems to miss also is there a govener on this tractor it takes about 200 rpm drop before it gets lug or is this normal it holds there for some time but it drops very fast to this point i been working with the thorttle linkage trying to get some of the slop out i dont think it helped much thank you for any help

Re(1): 1650 diesel (pump)

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on August 13, 2005 at 10:30:11 PM by Don-Wi

try replacing the fuel filter(s) first, our 1855 did something similar. It would drop to 1600 rpm's from 2200 (pto) when I would load it, just seemed sluggish overall. I replaced the filter(clip-on type, takes 5 mins. and you're running again) and it was a dramatic improvement. Now the governor kicks in right away, and holds it there. Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(2): 1650 diesel (pump)

IP: 207.231.118.37 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 06:25:32 PM by corre k

thank you for the help i changed the filter which did help also getting the slop out of the governor linkage helped thanks again

Re(3): 1650 diesel (pump)

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:28:29 PM by Larry Harsin

If that pump is original in that tractor, the governor ring may be starting to break up. But if it is running normally after the "fixes", just keep on using it. Larry

oliver 70 tractors

IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 11:51:06 PM by barbara macdonald

we live pennsylvania and our father recently passed away. we are now the owners of 5 tractors, 2 or 3 of which we are intending to sell. they are all 70 olivers - one is a 1944, one a 1945 or 46 and the last a 1947 or 48. how do you suggest we go about selling these? where would our best bet be in listing them for sale?

Re(1): oliver 70 tractors

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:23:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I would advertise them in the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine, website: hartparroliver.org and in Oliver Heritage Magazine, website www.oliverinformation.com and Antique Power Magazine, website www.antiquepoewer.com All of these magazines are read by over 6000 Oliver Collectors. Larry

88 tachometer

IP: 69.40.131.172 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 05:20:59 PM by Todd

Where can I find a tachometer to fit an 88 diesel that goes to at at least 3,000 rpm? I would like to mount it on the steering column. I can't just buy one at an auto parts store because it runs off the camshaft and turns a cable-there are not electronics on it (unless there is a light on the gauge face). If anyone could tell me where to get one, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

Re(1): 88 tachometer

IP: 65.6.57.170 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 09:46:16 PM by George

There are a couple of companies, I had one on my co-op that was from stewart warner went to 7000, auto meter said they could get me whatever I need. I would look for a tach out of an 1850 or any four digit Oliver they all go to 3000 since they make pto at 2500 or so.

Re(2): 88 tachometer

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:18:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with George. A tach out of a 2255 would also work. Larry

oliver 60 implements

IP: 68.227.85.197 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 02:09:00 AM by john james

Sir, is there a 3 pt. conversion kit for my oliver 60. If so where should I look ? If not;is it possible to use a 40" to 60" tiller or a smaller mower of some kind you can think of ? I completed the sedement bowl conversion on which you advised and guess what? No fuel leak and no more spuddering. Thanks muchly.

Re(1): oliver 60 implements

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 08:50:33 AM by Ron

Try http://www.worksaver.com/ and see if they sell a 3pt kit or maybe they know of someone who does. http://www.northerntool.com/ sells pull-type tillers and mowers with their own engines that can be pulled by any cat I or II tractor with a drawbar. Glad to hear you have her running good again!

Re(2): oliver 60 implements

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:16:05 PM by Larry Harsin

I know of no conversion kits for an Oliver 60. Oliver made several tractor mounted mowers that would fit on a 60. A pull behind tiller would be feasable to use with a 60. Oliver also built a plow that was mounted on the rear of a 60. Contact Don Chandler about implements for 60's. His phone: 207-935-3339. Larry

Oliver 1755 help

IP: 68.189.29.56 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 00:41:23 AM by Nick

Hello, I am from California and I have access to purchase what I believe is an Oliver 1755. It has no motor in it and I would like to know what motor it would have, like cid, Make, model for possible replacement. It has a 2wd front axle and Duals in the rear. It also has some hydro-shift setup that looks factory. Any help would be appreciated. thank you, Nick

Re(1): Oliver 1755 help

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 07:07:35 AM by Ron

It came with either a 283 ci gas or 310 ci diesel. Both are Waukesha industrial engines. Any Waukesha engine from any 4 digit Oliver engine will fit but if you expect to use the PTO you must use the 1755 flywheel. Finding replacement engines requires finding a donor tractor. Some people repower them with 6 cyl gas or diesel engines from trucks but this takes lots of time and money.

Re(2): Oliver 1755 help

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 09:08:34 AM by CEB

If this tractor has no motor in it, you had better get it cheap, real cheap. Not being able to run the tractor, there is no way to tell what else could be wrong with it. About all its worth is salvage value for whatever parts may be left on it. Not knowing the history of the tractor, you would probably be better off buying a running 1755.

Re(3): Oliver 1755 help

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:09:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I would reccommend that if you buy it, you get it for salvage price and go from there. This tractor works well with a 5.9 Cummins like was used in the Dodge pickups. Makes a good repower. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 1755 help

IP: 152.163.100.66 Posted on August 27, 2005 at 11:59:43 AM by NICKS DAD

HI LARRY, THANKS FOR HELPING NICK. I FELL AND BROKE MY LEG AND WE WON'T GO GET THE 1755 UNTIL I'M BETTER. MY SON LOVES WORKING ON OLD EQ AND IS ONLY 15 YEARS OLD, SO I'D LIKE TO KEEP HIM ON THE FARM AND SOME DAY I'LL MAKE HIM A PARTENER.WE WILL HAVE ALOT MORE QUESTIONS LATER. THANKS AGAIN, MIKE B.

1650 clutch

IP: 69.26.18.101 Posted on August 8, 2005 at 09:53:13 PM by Bill

Is it possible for the clutch to "stick" on my 1650? It's happened about three times where I will depress the clutch but it dosen't release. It depresses harder than normal when this happens. After depressing it again several times it "let's loose" and functions normally. I gave the throw out bearing one pump of grease and it hasn't done it since. I have also done some heavier work with a chisel plow recently and it has been fine. It doesn't make any noise when disengaged and seems to be normal and working properly every other way.

Re(1): 1650 clutch

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 8, 2005 at 11:35:54 PM by J. Ulmer

My Hanco'ck 282 elevating scraper uses a 1950 driveline by Oliver. When I bought it the clutch was out and would not release and was burned out as well. The throwout bearing had gone dry and it was cratered and had taken the fingers with it. The actual bearing shell had frozen and melted down the release fingers and the heat had screwed up the springs as well. If the center splined shaft is dry and rusty preventing the clutch pressure plate from releasing the clutch disc you are deforming linkage when you press the clutch and it is not releasing. It needs something fixed internally (the grease may have been sufficient), but the more stuff that tears up under powered load, the more expensive it will be. This is a case of a stitch in time saves nine. Good luck finding your problem!!

Re(2): 1650 clutch

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 09:17:53 AM by CEB

If it keeps doing this after you work it hard, probably the only alternative is to pull the motor and redo the clutch. While you're in there, I would replace the pressure plate, clutch plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and get the flywheel resurfaced. Also, don't buy anything less than the heavy duty pressure plate. These were a weak spot on these Olivers as the bolts on the pressure plate fingers are famous for breaking. Since it is a fairly involved job, a clutch is no place to try and save money. Do it right and it will last a long time.

Re(3): 1650 clutch

IP: 4.249.102.218 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 12:29:47 PM by Larry from MD

If grease seems to fix it i would think the bearing holder is not slideing on the tube.When you grease the bearing some of the grease gets onto the the slider tube.I would give it another shot of grease and keep driving it.

Re(4): 1650 clutch

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:05:13 PM by Larry Harsin

These guys have covered all of the bases. Good Luck! Larry

Super 55 carb and gas

IP: 209.53.222.134 Posted on August 8, 2005 at 04:32:07 PM by Jake

What a cool site, glad to fumble on to it. Very timely for me. I have a gas leak problem at the bottom of my carter carb. When I turn the fuel on to start it, it pours gas out of the FELT # 38 and Retainer # 40. I see that when the engine fires and runs this stops but I am scared to start it again because it still leaks a full stream. THIS IS NOT FROM THE BOWL DRAIN PLUG! :). Why I wonder, and what can we do to stop this problem. Not safe and not comforting.

Re(1): Super 55 carb and gas

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 8, 2005 at 05:00:02 PM by Ron

Most likely dirt trapped between the float needle and seat but it could be a damaged needle/seat. Less likely is wrong float level due to wrong adjustment or the float is porous. Best bet is to get a rebuild kit, if for no other reason just in case, and pull it apart and clean it. Then clean the tank and lines. I always put an inline automobile style metal cannister gas filter (NAPA 3033 works well) between the valve and carburetor to prevent this sort of thing.

Re(2): Super 55 carb and gas

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 10:01:10 PM by Larry Harsin

It needs to be taken apart and inspect the needle and seat. It could be foreign material has gotten in to the seat area or the needle and seat may be worn and need replacement. If you need parts for the carb, you can get them from your Case/IH Dealer as this carb was used on Super C Farmalls. Make sure that you have a good screen in your fuel strainer. Larry

S55 shifter jumps out of rail

IP: 4.238.103.8 Posted on August 8, 2005 at 12:57:05 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake

Hi Larry. I have super55 diesel that has jumped out of it's shift rails and at that point is in two gears. It's easy eough to set it right but I'm interested in what is the right fix for this condition? Thanks,Tom

Re(1): S55 shifter jumps out of rail

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 08:30:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Check to make sure that the weld on the shifting lever has not broken and allowed the lever to raise up. Otherwise, there is probably some wear where the balls set in the pockets, in the casting. Try using 2 small washers to hold the shift lever down into the rails a little further. That should help. Or, you could get a different shift lever. Larry

pto slips

IP: 24.206.160.96 Posted on August 7, 2005 at 12:38:16 PM by KIM SHARVER

WHEN MOWING WITH MY 68 - 1650 OLIVER THE PTO WILL STOP TURNING AND MAKES A HUMMING NOISE. WHAT IS THIS?

Re(1): pto slips

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 7, 2005 at 01:22:22 PM by Ron

Make sure the PTO lever is over-center, i.e., staying enagged. If it is, then the PTO clutch needs adjustment or replacement. Adjustment is covered in the Operator's Manual, the Service Manual covers replacement.

Re(2): pto slips

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 09:56:33 PM by Larry Harsin

If the PTO lever snaps over firmly, you may have the splines worn off of the drive end of the PTO shaft that is up in the fly wheel. The humming noise that you mentioned, makes me think that there is a good chance your splines are worn out. Larry

1928 Hart Parr 18-36

IP: 206.255.75.203 Posted on August 5, 2005 at 11:47:04 AM by Michael

I have a 1928 Hart Parr 18-36 Tractor that is fully restored and runs. I wanted to find some one who might be able to appraise it for me?

Re(1): 1928 Hart Parr 18-36

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 08:36:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Dave Preuhs at 507-665-2991. Larry

RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 206.66.66.1 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 02:38:29 PM by Russ

I recently bought an 1950 RC88 and was surprised that it had culitvator lifters only. No hydraulic hoses. I've heard theres a kit that can give me dual live hydraulics. I've never had an Oliver and I'm not real mechanical. Any suggestions or info would be helpful. Thanks

Re(1): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 5, 2005 at 06:42:41 AM by Ron

Find a local trusted tractor mechanic and tell him exactly what type of equipment you want to operate with the dual remotes. I'm not aware of any kit but he should be able to plumb in the correct control valve depending upon your intended use.

Re(2): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on August 5, 2005 at 07:09:25 PM by bradk

Russ~ What you need is to find a donor tractor from a salvage yard or an entire parts tractor from a private party. You can substitute the cultivator lift for a hydraulic unit with dual remotes. Where are you located, maybe I can direct you to yards or dealers that I know. I know that Larry would have the parts that you need on hand. ~brad

Re(3): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 5, 2005 at 09:18:11 PM by Ron

Sounds like a lot of work and money to me. Much easier and cheaper to get either a belt driven pump or if the tractor has a PTO a PTO driven pump. Along with the correct valve and a few other parts this is about a 1/2 day project.

Re(4): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 64.61.217.15 Posted on August 6, 2005 at 00:20:39 AM by bradk

I've never been too much of a fan for the add-on hydraulic pumps,especially the PTO driven units.It would never work on our farm because most of our equipment uses both PTO and hydraulics.I changed one of our RC88's over from power lift to hydraulics & I thought it was pretty easy,but we had a donor on hand which made the transplant that much easier.~brad

Re(5): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 206.66.66.1 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 03:42:41 PM by Russ

I'm shooting for live hydr and live PTO. PTO pump wouldn't accomplish that. Donor tractor? Any specific models/years that will best replace the cultivator lifts? Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.

Re(6): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 04:37:47 PM by Ron

Well, it would be the same tractor you have with the pump. Of course, it then makes more sense to sell your tractor and buy the one you really want.

Re(7): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on August 9, 2005 at 10:37:18 PM by bradk

Russ,any RC 77,88 or super 77,88 or 770&880 should interchange.~brad

Re(8): RC88 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.108 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 09:54:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Brad has told you the models that will interchange. You should expect to spend from $400 to $700 for a good usable hydraulic system to put into your tractor. The transmission input shaft in your tractor will have to be cut off so that you can install the hydraulic system. Larry

1800c engine repair

IP: 24.2.113.52 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 11:32:59 AM by Carl

I have an Oliver 1800 C serial no. 136957 with a Waukesha gas engine. The engine would not turn over free so I decided to disassemble it. When I removed the head I found three pistons locked to the sleeves. I freed these up and removed the pistons. When I removed the oil pump I found the drive gear on the end of the pump broken. I also found the gear on the camshaft broken that turns the oil pump. I removed the engine from the tractor. Sent the crank to the machine shop and the machinist said the crank was twisted and one rod journal had been turned to .040 previously. He also said the rest of the crank needs turned. I figure I have two options with this tractor. Sell the tractor the way it sits to a salvage yard or find another engine to install in tractor. I assume a overhaul kit, used crankshaft, used oil pump and used camshaft plus machine work to the head would cost more than the machine is worth. What other model tractors had engines that would fit this machine? Are used parts available at reasonable prices to repair this engine? It seems the only good parts for this engine I have is block, rods and head. Thanks for your help and any advice you would like to give.

Re(1): 1800c engine repair

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 12:55:29 PM by Ron

This is a bad news, good news deal. You have correctly identified your options. The engine is a boat anchor and any attempt to repair it would be a waste of money and time. The good news is that ANY Waukesha engine will fit. The secret is to use the flywheel from the old engine so be sure to keep it. Therefore, any four-digit Oliver tractor gas engine can be swapped in. You can either try to find a running engine or buy an entire donor tractor. If you can't hear the engine run, it's worth what a scrap dealer will give you by the pound. However, sometimes you'll find a tractor that died in a fire, blew the T/FD, etc. which can provide a good running engine at a fair price.

Re(2): 1800c engine repair

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 5, 2005 at 00:11:58 AM by J. Ulmer

Ron's advice to find a donor engine in a corpse (dead other than engine) is the most economical even in you have to drag it home quite a ways as someone else's dead tractor won't bring them much. If you can get a comparable unit which will give you other spare parts, so much the better! An 89 year old friend passed away last year and he had 3 olivers he purchased new and his widow sold an 1800 propane for $1200, a 1950T (with $3000 motor work..good work or not I don't know) for $750 and an 1850 diesel for $2500. Depends where in the country you are, around these parts there never were many (Texas Panhandle), but go find them in the weeds or with trees growing around them and they can come relatively cheap before the salvage guys get them. Good Luck!!

Re(3): 1800c engine repair

IP: 65.6.20.187 Posted on August 6, 2005 at 09:33:24 PM by George

Some other options, a 292 chevy or a 300 ford if gas is your preference. Now if you were to opt for dsl. I would recommend a hercules 298 or there is always the tub swap and use a perkins or cummins. One other engine that I have seen is the 3.4 4cyl cummins no tub change required. Some things to consider.

Re(4): 1800c engine repair

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 7, 2005 at 10:33:37 AM by Ron

I once saw a Chevy 454 swapped in. It looked very nicely done. The guy said it was "field ready". I didn't ask but I later thought maybe he had a gas truck follow him around in the field!

1650 Hydra-power problems

IP: 69.73.7.177 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 09:55:20 PM by Scott S.

My boy was mowing hay today when the tractor stopped. A small amount (1 qt.) of fluid appeared under the tractor. It does not move forward or reverse in direct drive or Hydra-power. In fact the transmission seems to have no input. I noticed that the chain, visable through the steering wheel position pedal, is not rotating. It appears to have move to the rear of the tractor about 3/4 inches. Any ideas? I have hay on the ground and need to fix it fast, with no local dealers having any Oliver experience.

Re(1): 1650 Hydra-power problems

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 11:07:48 PM by bradk

Sounds like the 2-speed Hydra-power has broken mainshaft causing shaft to walk past sealing surface.Let us know which area you're in to direct you to nearest dealer for parts or a reman. unit.~brad

Re(2): 1650 Hydra-power problems

IP: 69.73.7.177 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 03:16:59 AM by Scott S.

I found the problem. The output gear is held on by a nut that is acessable once the coupling chain is removed. The nut had lossened enough to allow the output gear to slide back and dissengage. Is there a special wrench/tool to tighten this collar nut? I am sure the output seal is damaged, can that be replaced without removing the engine and hydra-stat? I am located in Northern AL.

Re(3): 1650 Hydra-power problems

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 07:32:58 AM by Ron

Yes, there is a special spanner wrench for this lock nut though some adjustable spanners will do the trick. But the unit must come out of the tractor as there is an "O" ring under the seal that may also be damaged. The output bearing should also be inspected. I seriously doubt that the lock nut backing out is the only problem unless someone has worked on it before and forgot to stake the nut. Most shops will work on your tractor if you provide them a service manual. At least they will replace seals, etc. But many shops are reluctant to tear down a unit that requires special tools and shims and gauges and for which parts may be hard to come by. You may have to hunt for a shop that's willing to do this for you but once you see the price of a reman unit you'll be motivated!

Re(4): 1650 Hydra-power problems

IP: 65.1.98.71 Posted on August 4, 2005 at 04:18:06 PM by Tom

I have recently had to find a good oliver mechanic in your area. The closest one that I could find is Russell Mason Tractor co. Located in Winchester TN. 800-426-5680 They do great work and can get just about any part. Hope this helps.

oliver 60

IP: 68.227.85.197 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 10:50:39 AM by john james

i have purchased an oliver 60 that runs perfect. the other day i cleaned out the sediment bowl (which has chips around the rim and leakes fuel), replaced it and now it spudders. my question is can i replace the sediment bowl with a modern standard in line filter with an in line shut off valve? also can you direct me to a parts place that carries the sediment bowl replacement assembly.

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 12:46:22 PM by Ron

Yes. You can get a new sediment bowl assembly from nearly any AG dealer. The ones they put on the 2005 tractors are the same as the old ones. However, I don't use them. They are nothing but trouble, even the new ones leak. I replace the nipple out of the tank with a brass ball valve. Every hardware store carries them in the plumbing department. They have a large lever on them that makes them easy to turn off/on even with gloves on. Then I run fuel line to a NAPA 3033 metal cannister fuel filter and then another fuel line to the carburetor. You'll need a 90 degree nipple at the carburetor. NAPA has the fuel line and nipple. Put it all together with stainless steel band clamps (worm drive clamps) and it will never leak again. I replace the filter every year or so.

Re(2): oliver 60

IP: 68.227.85.197 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 01:15:54 PM by john james

Thankyou!!!!

Re(3): oliver 60

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on August 14, 2005 at 08:11:55 AM by Larry Harsin

I use AGCO fuel strainer assembly part # JAS 841. It has a shut-off valve built right on it. Larry

hydraulic

IP: 198.208.159.14 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 11:09:35 AM by MIKE DARLING

HI LARRY, I OWN A 1962 550. THE PROBLEM IAM HAVING IS WHEN I PUT MY 5FT. BRUSH HOG ON THE REAR OF THE TRACTOR AT FIRST IT LIFTS IT UP COMPLETELY. AFTER ABOUT 1 HOUR OF USE THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM WILL NOT LIFT THE IMPLEMENT ALL THE WAY BACK UP. I CHECKED THE HYDRAULIC FLUID AND IT'S ALMOST RIGHT ON THE FULL LINE. WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT OR WHAT DO YOU THINK THE PROBLEM IS?

Re(1): hydraulic

IP: 199.150.177.29 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 03:22:22 PM by CEB

Sounds like your hydraulic pump may be getting weak. This usually shows up when your hydraulic oil gets good and hot and has thinned out. First, however, I would check your hydraulic filter. In order to check the pump, you will need get the specs either from a shop manual or check with a dealer to see what the PSI should be. Then you will need a gauge that you can plug into the hydraulics to get a PSI reading. Do you have remotes on that tractor?

Re(2): hydraulic

IP: 67.2.242.68 Posted on August 2, 2005 at 06:45:23 AM by Larry Harsin

There is enough wear in your hydraulic pump that is isn't doing the job when the oil gets hot. I would change the oil. Since this works when the oil is cold, I would try a little bit heavier oil. Also, change the filter. If this doesn't do it, you are going to have to rebuild your hydraulic pump. Larry

Stuck in the mud!

IP: 68.238.180.215 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 10:58:10 AM by Mike Neary

While mowing aong our creek, we hit a soft spot that swallowed our tractor (1600) up to the axles. Any suggestions on extraction methods, attachment points for tow straps, things to avoid?

Re(1): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 11:34:48 AM by Ron

D8 from behind using the 1600s drawbar with a shackle bracket on it. Chains are dangerous, I use a nylon jerk strap rated to 30,000 lb. This way the D8 can lift and pull. You'll have it out in no time.

Re(2): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 152.163.100.202 Posted on August 3, 2005 at 11:17:15 PM by Don-Wi

We've always used another bigger tractor to pull out. There have been a few times where we called our neighbors w/ a payloader. They hook the chain to the bucket, then they'll back up till they can't anymore, then sink the bucket in and roll it back. Works great, and we've never had any harm wrapping around the front axel of any of our tractors (1600, 1755, Massey 165 & 285.) We've never got our 1855 stuck yet, hope not too also 'cause we t'aint got anything big enough to pull it out. I've had the rest all up to the axels at one time or another. Donvan from Wisconsin

Re(3): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 68.238.180.215 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 12:45:56 PM by Mike Neary

Is there any chance a heavy duty 1 ton, 4WD pickup truck could pull a tractor out of the mud?

Re(4): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 01:09:45 PM by Ron

If the 1600 is sunk up to it's axles the truck has no chance at all. Pro wreckers use the hook for a reason, so they can lift and pull. They are mighty pricey ($125 just to show up around here) which is why I suggested a dozer as neighbors tend to help neighbors. In any case, you need something can lift and pull.

Re(5): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 08:20:16 PM by J. Ulmer

Ron is right about a pickup. Its weight is equal to or less than the tractor and geared too high. Not knowing what you have access to make how to hard also, but beware using chains like Ron warns as that weak link strained can pop and like a steel whip tear up and hurt people and stuff. I have buried a fifteen yard self-propelled scraper in a silted in wash near a tailwater pit and it was the pits!! We unloaded the bowls to lighten the machine as much as possible. If possible, unhook and remove your shredder to 1. Get rid of the weight 2. Get it out of the way so it doesn't drag more 3. Get it out of the way so you don't tear it up. If you can then block and jack up the sections and fill in under the wheels, you have a chance of rolling it out with another tractor pulling. If you cannot raise it out of the grave some you will have to find something that can drag not only the weight of the tractor up and out, but also over come all the friction and adhesion of the muck. I have built skids with steel beams and telephone poles as dry west Texas can get some tremendous mudholes when the rains come. A 14 inch rain at the tail of a hurricane in Sept. 1986 left Dad's loaned IHC 858 on a hill by the fuel tank under 6 feet of water. Towed it out with 2ooo ft of 3/8 cable floated out on barrels holding the spool by a 4 wheel JohnDeere driving through 2.5 foot deep water. Lots of luck and best wishes!!!

Re(6): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 67.2.242.68 Posted on August 2, 2005 at 06:39:48 AM by Larry Harsin

These guys have lots of good ideas. We tend to have quicksand deposits around here at times. A couple of hundred dollars for a wrecker might be cheap compared to tearing something up. Good Luck!! Larry Harsin

Re(7): Stuck in the mud!

IP: 68.238.180.215 Posted on August 2, 2005 at 08:18:28 PM by Mike Neary

Thanks for the advice. We'll be working on it Thursday or Friday.

1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.205.144 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 06:45:53 PM by John

My 1655 is still running to hot, 6 cylinder diesel Waukesha. I went to check the timing today but can't find any index mark on the bell housing to line up with the timing mark on the flywheel! The IT manual I have says to line this mark up first with #1 at TDC and then check the pump. Can any one help? I have looked and looked, and no I haven't been drinking, at least not yet! This is a super tractor but if i can't solve the overheating I don't trust working her.

Re(1): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 07:42:29 PM by Ron

I'm not following you. Do you know for a fact it is overheating? What have you done to determine the source of the overheating so far? Sure, if pump timing is off it could overheat but there are lots of other things to check first. If you really need to find TDC on #1 without using the flywheel mark/timing pointer post back and I'll answer you. It's kinda involved.

Re(2): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 4.249.111.187 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 12:33:37 PM by Larry from MD

The quick way of finding tdc is to point the keyway in the front pully up.The tdc mark should be in the hole and the mark in the injector pump will be close or 180 off.

Re(3): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.205.144 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 08:00:19 PM by John

This tractor has run too hot since I purchased her just over a year ago. Previous owner had rebuilt the engine. This has been the subject of previous post. Four weeks ago I removed the head, there was a possibility that she had been blowing head gasket at #6 but the evidence was slim. I had the head planed and refitted. She maybe ran slightly cooler but not much, then two weeks later (before I could put her into hard work and check working temp.)) #1 piston seized. We fitted new piston and liner. Now put her into work and still running too hot. So I thought I would check the timing but I do not see any index marks on the bell housing. Engine runs sweet, burns no oil, pulls well, rad was serviced last fall, new fan belts, checked thermostat. I am not new to tractors, but this one has me beat!

Re(4): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 08:47:22 PM by Ron

OK, here's some thoughts. Have you checked the actual temperature with a known good mechanical gauge and/or IR (heat gun) type thermometer? If you are just depending on the factory sending unit and gauge they do fail and will show hot; sometimes they will show hot as soon as you start the engine... proof the sending unit/gauge are bad. Does coolant show bubbles (cap off, cold start) as you allow the engine to warm? If so, compression is leaking into the cooling system. Warped head, torn gasket, bad liner, cracked head, cracked block, etc. are the usual suspects. You replaced the head gasket... were the head and block checked with a steel straightedge (machinist's steel) to ensure they are flat with the specification in the service manual? If not flat, they must be resurfaced. Were new head bolts used? If a head warps, the head bolts are automatically no longer any good... they have been stretched and they won't hold torque. Does coolant belch out the overflow tube when the engine gets hot? If so, this might mean it's really overheating or it just might mean the radiator was overfilled. General shop procedure, after you positively determine it's really overheating, is to do a compression test (if low, they overheat), a cylinder leakdown test (shows exactly where compression is being lost), and cooling system pressure test (if the system has even a tiny leak and won't hold pressure and overheat. Have you substituted a known good radiator cap? One that won't hold pressure will make it overheat. Has the water pumnp been tested? Low flow will cause overheating. I saved the worst for last. On poorly maintained engines, lack of regular coolant changes will cause rust and scale deposits to literally fill up the water jacket from the bottom up. You can check this easily... pull a freeze (frost) plug and if no coolant comes out you've found the problem. The solution is a complete teardown and hot-tank of the block. As fas as the pump timing goes... if you can't find the timing pointer at the flywheel, some previous shop mechanic damaged or lost it. Go to any auto parts store and get a TDC finder, yes, they actually make them. Follow the instructions that it comes with... basically you insert it in any spark plug or injector hole on #1, remove the valve cover, rotate engine in correct direction until both intake and exhaust valves are closed and then keep going until the TDC finder stops. It takes a bit of practice but works perfectly. In the old days we used wood dowels, pencils, screwdrivers, etc. but the TDC finder can't damage anything and is more accurate.

Re(5): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.205.144 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 09:18:07 PM by John

Thanks for your input. I have checked the 1655 temp guage by swapping with the guage from my 1850, they both read the same. That was the easy test. I have not checked the sender unit. No apparent bubbles in the rad but very difficult to check due to the rad design. Head was planed by a "head shop" should be good. I did check the block with a straight edge and appeared good. I used the same head bolts, dipped the threads in oil, torqued down in 4 stages and then retorqued after running for 10 mins. Coolent level is 1 1/2 inches down from top of rad and not changed after 2 days on the haybine and 4 hours on a big baler. She blew a little out when I first started as she was overfull and no more since. I have not added any since I drove her out the shop. I will change rad cap with the 1850 and check. I have not checked the water pump, but in my past experience they either work or fail. It would appear that when the previous owner rebuilt the engine new liners were fitted as these are wet liners any rust/scale deposits would surely have been seen and removed? I hope! Yes if there should be a timing indicator on the engine to line up with the marks on the flywheel she is long gone. I also have used a wood dowel in the old days, I was hoping there was an easy alternative that I may have missed.

Re(6): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 10:58:29 PM by Larry Harsin

If you ran that tractor as long as you said you did ("2 days on the haybine and 4 hrs. on the big baler"), it is not running hot. You tried the gauge from your 1850, did you check out the sender? Larry

Re(7): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.205.144 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 01:23:51 AM by John

I will swap the sender from the 1850 to the 1655 in the morning if they are the same, and report back. I belive the engine is running too hot, the needle on the guage, is at best 1/4 inch from the red and moves to almost touching the red under load. She smells hot and the heat from the engine is extreem. I believe the temp guage needle should not normaly pass 12 o'clock, this would be in the middle of the black run position. This girl (1655)runs in the 2 o'clock position, this was confirmed with the guage from the 1850. On the 1850 I can not get the needle past 1 o'clock even when I flog her hard and get the exhaust glowing red at night! Let me quickly add that I do not generaly work her like that but it has happened.

Re(8): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 08:02:50 AM by Ron

A common problem with electric gauge sending units is that people insist on using tape or sealer on them. This prevents them from being properly grounded. Sometimes even if you replace the sending unit there is enough garbage in the hole threads to keep the unit from working correctly. If you get the same result when you swap in the sending unit go to an auto parts store and buy/rent a mechanical gauge. It screws directly into the sending unit hole. It will read in degrees. The manual states the operating range as being 155F to 212F. If it shows under 212F I don't see a problem.

Re(9): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.204.95 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 12:31:17 PM by John

The temp sending unit is a different dia between the 1850 (Perkins) and the 1655 so can not swap that, and today is a holiday in Canada so everywhere is shut. I just removed the thermostat and ran her 3 miles down the road and back. The temp guage could hardly get in the black run area, before she would have been 1/4 inch from the red. So I think I have had a problem thermostat all the time, I did a quick check before with the thermostat in a can of water on the stove but she cannot be opening soon enough. No temp range is marked on the thermostat, sometimes 'hotter" units are fitted in winter chore tractors as it gets cold up here in winter, maybe that is what I have. It is 90 degrees in the shade already so an afternoon baling will soon show if I have found my problem.

Re(10): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 142.161.204.95 Posted on August 1, 2005 at 09:16:43 PM by John

Yes it would seem that a faulty thermostat has been the cause of my problems all the time. Six hours baling in above average temp and she performed as expected, engine ran good and sounded good. Needle never came close to the red. Moral here is to make sure of basic components before going further afield.

Re(11): 1655 Timing check!

IP: 67.2.242.68 Posted on August 2, 2005 at 06:31:38 AM by Larry Harsin

We are glad you found your problem, but that engine shouldn't be run without a thermostat for very long. Larry

need tractor

IP: 64.126.154.113 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 10:33:25 AM by Jack Skille

Not exactly a mechanical questiion but I need advice on a good tractor for my needs. I have a 3 acre Christmas tree field here in Idaho. I have a Kubota 185DT 4-wheel drive about 20 HP that I use to rototill, brush hog, etc. Nice little tractor but my land is quite hilly and I am in constant fear of tipping the thing over. I want a larger more stable tractor (adjustable wheel width?) to replace the Kubota. I don't mind an older tractor since i am somewhat mechanical and have restored autos and one tractor. What do you folks recommend as a good mid-size tractor for my purpose? Jack

Re(1): need tractor

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 11:55:20 AM by Ron

It makes no difference if a tractor is large or small, heavy or light, what matters is the center of gravity. It tends to be quite high in most tractors which you correctly perceive as a fear of it tipping over. Depending on your row spacing and turn-around area you might be able to use dual rear wheels and perhaps even dual front wheels as well with 75% CaCl in them which would lower both the roll center and center of gravity and be far more stable than what you have. I have no idea if duals are even available for that tractor but your dealer should know.

Re(2): need tractor

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 02:27:36 PM by Larry Harsin

A utility tractor with a lower center of gravity is what you are seeking. Possibly a 4 wheel drive or a front wheel assist. The one tractor that we have that would work for you is the Massey 65 shown and described on this website. It has a low center of gravity and adjustable wheel width and is 45 hp. It would be very good for the 3 pt. work that you describe. You probably will want a ROPS. If you are interested in this tractor, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

oil leak

IP: 66.238.45.189 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 09:43:10 PM by jim

oil leaking from brake housing on 1850. Can back-yard guy replace seal? Can this be done without much teardown? What is critical to watch for? Thanks,

Re(1): oil leak

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 00:58:24 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a bit of a job. That seal has to be removed from the outside. The brake housing can't be removed from the tractor without a major tear down. You'll have to drill a small hole in the seal and use a screw and pull the seal out using the screw. Larry

Re(2): oil leak

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 06:09:59 AM by Ron

Check the oil level first. If it's too high it will overpressure the seal causing it to leak. Often just restoring the oil to the correct level stops the lea

rear wheels

IP: 170.215.46.88 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 10:16:09 AM by Bob Webber

i am looking for stamped steel rear wheels for a super 77 oliver that are 13,6 x 38 i need a pair please let me know where i can get a pair. thank you phone is 507-527-8562

Re(1): rear wheels

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 12:01:36 PM by Ron

Try http://www.millertire.com/. Best to call and ask if you don't see what you want on the website.

Re(2): rear wheels

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 00:54:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Wall Lake Tractor Parts 800-522-1909 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304. Larry

Super 55 generator

IP: 209.53.222.61 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 09:11:27 AM by Stuart

Seems my 6v system is not charging anymore. It was not too long ago I think judging by how the battery turned the flywheel over the last few months. Anyway, I had it tested a bit by a mechanic type and he saw that the ground wire from the regulator had come off and was hanging. He seemed convinced that the regluator was my promlem, and it needs replaced. When we reground the wire, it does not charge. So he figured the regulator was fried. Fair assessment Larry? A replacement regulator is 75-100$ so I was hoping for a second opinion on whether that wire being off could fry it.

Re(1): Super 55 generator

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 09:43:59 AM by Ron

Sounds like the generator was not polarized properly after you restored the ground wire and the points are now burnt in the regulator. Check NAPA for a regulator, last time I bought one it was more like $20. See http://web.utk.edu/~tprather/FoothillsTractorClub/TechTips/PolarizeGenerator.html

Re(2): Super 55 generator

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 00:50:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't think that wire coming loose would fry the regulator. That wire does have to be connected. Start the tractor and run the engine at half throttle. Then with a screwdriver, ground the armiture post and see if it sparks. If it doesn't, your generator is not working. If it does arc, your regulator is not working. If the regulator is not working, remove the cover and with the ground cable on your battery disconnected, clean the 2 contacts for the regulator with a point file. Then you should use some electrical parts cleaner to get the filings off of the points. Now re-try it and see if it will charge. Many times those points get dirty or burnt and won't work. The front contacts usually is the cut out and the rear set is the regulator. With the engine running at half throttle, try increasing the spring tension on the rear set of contacts and see if it increases the rate of charge. Also, you can get a new regulator from Valu-Bilt for less money than you are saying. 888-828-3276. It won't be a Delco Remy, but it will work. Larry

770 diesel timing

IP: 63.24.68.19 Posted on July 29, 2005 at 10:26:34 PM by Gary Veldhuizen

I Am looking for the timining mark on the flywheel, for timing the injection pump to the engine. I have found the TDC mark I was looking for the FP mark, but I'm having trouble locting it This tractor has a roosa master pump. thanks for any info.

Re(1): 770 diesel timing

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 00:40:34 AM by Larry Harsin

With a Roosa Master, you don't have an FP mark. Your Operator's Manual should tell the degrees before TDC where that pump is timed. Larry

Screeching 1800 C Diesel

IP: 66.185.0.212 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 10:30:05 AM by Jim Smith

I was cutting hay this evening when I started to hear a very slight "surge" in the engine for about 30 seconds. I had to listen to hear the surge, when all of the sudden there is a screech from the engine. Well I shut her down quickly. Just before this happened I checked the gauges, oil pressure was a little lower than "normal"; 20 versus 35. All other gauges were where they should be. I headed to the neighbors to get his IH 856 and finished cutting hay after I pulled the 1800 into the shop. I quickly pulled the oil filter and did not see any metal. The coolant level was normal, and the oil, though a little low, appeared normal and did not have any burned odor. Ok, before I do any thing rash do any of you have an suggestions or thoughts about what may have happened? I am thinking a spun rod bearing.

Re(1): Screeching 1800 C Diesel

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 01:12:26 PM by Ron

I agree with you. It's good you shut it down quick as you may have saved the crank.

Re(2): Screeching 1800 C Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.103 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 11:50:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I would check the easy things first, such as a water pump bearing or a generator bearing. See if the engine turns over freely, then I'd remove the oil pan and start checking bearings if I found nothing external. Larry

Re(3): Screeching 1800 C Diesel

IP: 63.76.142.10 Posted on July 29, 2005 at 04:08:45 PM by Jim Smith

Well, it turns out that it is probably the water pump. YIPPEEE. Now I need to find a watr pump rebuild kit. Any suggestions on where to get one for and 1800C Diesel?

Re(4): Screeching 1800 C Diesel

IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on July 29, 2005 at 09:47:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

ID Help

IP: 4.188.208.185 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 11:49:47 PM by Mike

Wondering how to find out what motor was in my tractor when new if possible.

Re(1): ID Help

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 07:35:40 AM by Larry Harsin

What tractor do you have? Larry

Re(2): ID Help

IP: 170.215.45.244 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 09:17:09 AM by Mike

By the serial number it is a 1964 770, it has a gas motor, but I don't think it always was a gas.

Re(3): ID Help

IP: 67.2.249.103 Posted on July 28, 2005 at 11:46:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1964 770 had a 216 cu. in Waukesha in both the gas and the diesel. Larry

Oliver Serial Numbers

IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 07:10:47 PM by John, OH

Larry, is it possible to find out from a serial number (ex: my 770) where it was purchased new? And who would have been the original owner? This seems to be a question that no one seems to know. Hopefully you can help. Thank you!

Re(1): Oliver Serial Numbers

IP: 67.2.242.91 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 11:43:56 PM by Larry Harsin

At the Museum in Charles City, they have the Build Cards for many of the tractors built there. The Build Card is a computer punch card that traveled along the assembly line with the tractor as it was being built and was punched when various things were put into the tractor. These Build Cards also tell which Dealer received the tractor and sold it new. However, it doesn't tell you the original owner. There is a fee of approx. $10 to get the info on the Build Card. They are still studying them to figure out some of the codes, but they can tell you many things about your tractor. You can email the Museum at: fchs@fiai.net or phone them: 641-228-1099. Larry

overheated 1250

IP: 66.65.246.200 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 09:15:44 AM by John Tryon

My 1250 overheated yesterday,after I shut it off, I've not been able to get it started, it turns over, has spark, but I notice that there sems to be back pressure through the radiator cap. Any ideas?

Re(1): overheated 1250

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 09:26:14 AM by Ron

When an engine overheats the head often warps, tearing the head gasket. This allows compression pressure into the water jacket. Normally you can have a machine shop resurface the head to specifications, install a new head gasket and new head bolts, and, assuming you find and fix the cause of the overheating, you should be good to go. However those Fiats are new impossible to get parts for so if you tear into the engine and find you need some you may be up the creek.

Re(2): overheated 1250

IP: 67.2.242.91 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 11:37:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Ron. It sounds like you have a blown head gasket. You may be able to get a new head gasket from Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry

Re(3): overheated 1250

IP: 66.65.246.200 Posted on July 30, 2005 at 11:10:03 PM by JT

I took the tractor to the shop, they pulled the head but no torn head gasket, too late in the day to investigate further, any thoughts?

Re(2): overheated 1250

IP: 67.2.248.162 Posted on July 31, 2005 at 01:01:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You could have a cracked cylinder head or a cracked sleeve. Larry

Hard Starting 1650 Update

IP: 12.179.8.200 Posted on July 26, 2005 at 10:38:55 PM by Randy

Thanks for all the replies from so many of you on here. A special thanks to John for his thoughts and ideas. I bought 2 new 6 volt batteries and all new cables. OH MY what a difference!! I just knew she wasnt ready for an overhaul yet. Darn ole girl runs so good, uses no oil, and with no blowby. I am wanting cold weather now just to see how she starts then. LOL LOL ( I am still going to have them adjust the valves too.)

Re(1): Hard Starting 1650 Update

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 06:31:53 AM by Ron

For the cost of one extra cable you could have wired two 12v batteries in parallel and doubled your starting power. This is very commonly done when replacing 6v batteries, especially in cold climates.

Re(2): Hard Starting 1650 Update

IP: 67.2.242.91 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 11:45:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear that you solved your problem. Larry

880 Bosch Diesel Pump

IP: 24.117.239.20 Posted on July 24, 2005 at 11:14:14 PM by Dave

I have black oil (not diesel fuel) leaking out of my Bosch pump on my 880. It appears to be coming out around the housing closing plug and/or the timing window cover. There may possibly be other places too. The tractor runs fine and it has not affected the performance. Any suggestions to why this is happening and way can I do to remedy it? Thanks!

Re(1): 880 Bosch Diesel Pump

IP: 67.2.248.65 Posted on July 24, 2005 at 11:53:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to remove the governor housing and repair the leakage. It isn' t high tech. It won't have to be removed from the tractor. However, if the leakage is coming from the back side of the pump unit ahead of the governor housing, there may be a gasket that has shrunk on the cover plate. If so, the pump will have to be removed to replace that cover plate gasket. Larry

Re(2): 880 Bosch Diesel Pump

IP: 65.116.108.86 Posted on July 26, 2005 at 10:43:28 AM by Dave

If I remove the governor housing, is it a gasket that I have to replace or what would I be doing to repair the leakage? Thanks!

Re(3): 880 Bosch Diesel Pump

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on July 27, 2005 at 08:11:09 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to replace a couple of gaskets and possibly a cover plug on the back side or a seal on the outside where the operating shaft comes out. Larry

1850 3pt

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on July 24, 2005 at 07:12:58 PM by Bryan Swisher

Larry, When we hooked up the 3 hoses to tractor ports on side of transmission, we used pioneer quick connect,also for allhook ups on joy stick, wouldn't think that would have anything to do with my problem? Thanks again

Re(1): 1850 3pt

IP: 67.2.248.65 Posted on July 24, 2005 at 11:48:13 PM by Larry Harsin

It is very possible that one of the Pioneer couplings is causing the problem. I wasn't aware that you had those. That just might be the problem. Larry

Re(2): 1850 3pt

IP: 69.179.7.150 Posted on July 25, 2005 at 06:53:53 AM by Ron

Any couplers that are working, including the very nice Pioneer Quik-Couplers, cannot possibly be causing any hydraulic system problem. I'd suggest you go through the operator's manual and make sure all the bypass and restrictors are set correctly, the hoses are plumbed correctly, etc. If you are using a power beyond control valve for some reason, make sure you have the correct valve.

Re(3): 1850 3pt

IP: 4.249.105.54 Posted on July 25, 2005 at 03:16:39 PM by Larry from MD

If you still have the same problem as below you need to switch the 2 return lines from the valve to the tractor.

3pt not working

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on July 23, 2005 at 06:01:39 PM by bryan swisher

I just got a 1850 185-879-427,took loader off1650 and put loader and joy stick and power beyondon the 1850 now the 3pt on 1850 does not work, we hooked it up the very same as the 1650. check the reilf vale and seems to be ok, not broke. check the bolt that you screw in or out for one way or two way cylinder,still did not work. If I put 3pt lever in up poosition and move joy stick up or down the 3pt will come up.My remotes do not work either, screwed a pressure gauge into the left side of houseing and have 1800 t0 2000 lbs. Can you help with this problem? Thank you

Re(1): 3pt not working

IP: 67.2.249.188 Posted on July 24, 2005 at 02:01:36 AM by Larry Harsin

After speaking to you on the phone, I think you are going to have to change some hoses on your loader valve around. We pretty much discussed this. Larry

770 side tins

IP: 4.188.213.106 Posted on July 21, 2005 at 10:52:04 PM by Mike

Wondering if any one has or knows any one with all four side tins for a 1964 770.

Re(1): 770 side tins

IP: 67.2.249.66 Posted on July 22, 2005 at 06:42:20 AM by Larry Harsin

These are the hardest side panels to find. Richard Lynch of Eaton OH makes new side panels for some of the Olivers. I don't know if he makes them for this particular tractor or not. Check with him. 937-456-6686. Larry

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