"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" June 7 through July 24, 2001 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" June 7 through July 24, 2001 Archives
hydraulic system diagram
Posted by glen on 7/24/2001 at 00:31:13 IP: 63.38.3.112
do you know where we can get a diagram of an 1800 oliver system. mine is hooked up to a bucket and unable to hold pressure. I need instruction on how to repair it.
Re: hydraulic system diagram
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/24/2001 at 06:48:04 IP: 209.163.7.72
There are check valves in the top cover of the hydraulic system (under the seat). Probably one of them is leaking. The back two of the check valves are easy to repair without removing the lid off the system. All you have to do is remove the little cast iron plate on the back of the cover. I believe it has 5 bolts in it. If these are o.k., the problem is probably in the front two check valves and you will have to remove the cover to service them. To get a diagram and/or a Service Manual and an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City Hdq. Email her at: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry.........
Oliver Super 55 Parts
Posted by Steve LeBard on 7/18/2001 at 23:12:52 IP: 216.192.47.46
Anyone looking for Super 55 Gasoline Tractor parts look at item # 1618418135 on ebay.com. This tractor is a basket case but includes recored radiator, rebuilt manual steering box and a very good gasoline engine. Other good parts as well. thanks Steve
Re: Oliver Super 55 Parts
Posted by Monte Hodges on 7/19/2001 at 14:06:11 IP: 130.134.81.15
I have a Oliver 550 and I am looking for a steering gear box for it. It does have manual steering. Will your gear box from the super 55 fit my oliver 550? Looking forward to hearing from you. thanks again Monte
Head Bolt Washers
Posted by Joe on 7/18/2001 at 16:27:19 IP: 209.132.168.62
Was ready to replace all 25 head bolt washers on a Waukesha until I priced them at the Agco dlr. A little over $2.50 each. Maybe OE is the route to go, but seems a little pricey for washers.
Any suggestions on a possible alternative? Many of mine show the hex imprint of the bolt head, so there is not much chance of correctly torquing the bolt with the washers as they are. Thanks.
I did go to Ohio for a day - huge!! Talk about a bargain, $4 for an class event like that is unreal.
Re: Head Bolt Washers
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/18/2001 at 18:54:38 IP: 209.163.7.69
Joe. That is a special heat treated washer. I think I would just go ahead and bite the bullet and get the correct ones. Yes, Ohio was quite a show and such beautiful grounds in under the trees. We enjoyed it immensely for 3 days! All the Oliver Collectors we meet are the best part. Larry...
1755 fenders
Posted by Dave on 7/14/2001 at 20:54:38 IP: 216.127.194.91
What would be a fair price to pay for a set of good used fenders for a 1755. They are standard ones, not the ones with fuel tanks. Thanks
Re: 1755 fenders
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:44:03 IP: 209.163.7.63
I would say $275 - $375 for a pair. Larry.......
Super 55 Steering
Posted by Mike Nassif on 7/14/2001 at 07:55:26 IP: 208.2.71.2
I have finally gotten my S 55 diesel going again. Now the steering is of the TMTB (10 men & 2 boys) variety. I'm a big guy, but it is ALL I can do to turn the wheel. This tractor also has an Oliver 610 loader, so I expected the steering to be a little heavy, but not like this. I should mention that this is a "rescue" tractor that had sat for several years. Have been greasing like crazy, but doesn't seem to change. Thanks for your help, Mike
Re: Super 55 Steering
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 7/14/2001 at 11:00:30 IP: 64.244.12.47
Loaders can be hard on S55 steering.Have you drained the water out of the steering gearbox and replaced it with gear oil.Grease should be used if the seals are old and wont hold.Allso the steering arms can catch on the sides of the tractor.Another thing is the bearings in the bottem of the steering spindels often go bad with loaders.
Re: Super 55 Steering
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:41:36 IP: 209.163.7.63
I agree with Larry Wolfe on all those possibilities. Larry........
Diesel Fuel in Engine Oil
Posted by Steve LeBard on 7/13/2001 at 17:59:47 IP: 216.192.15.84
I am getting diesel fuel in my engine oil. At first I thought it was the fuel pump and I went to an electric pump but I am still having the problem. I have an Oliver Super 55 Diesel. Any ideas on what is causing this? Thanks Steve
Re: Diesel Fuel in Engine Oil
Posted by Richard on 7/13/2001 at 18:19:39 IP: 63.172.138.219
Front Seal on injector pump maybe?
Re: Diesel Fuel in Engine Oil
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 7/13/2001 at 18:43:58 IP: 64.244.12.121
There is allso an oring in the injector pump that can leak into the crankcase.
Re: Diesel Fuel in Engine Oil
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:38:01 IP: 209.163.7.63
I agree with Larry Wolfe. I think it is the O Ring in the Injector Pump. This is located on the back of the area just below the injection head where it bolts into the pump housing. It takes a wrench to unscrew it and there is a little brass screen and the O ring you will have to dig out with an O ring pick. You will have to go to your dealer or a "pump shop" that works on Bosch pumps to get the O ring. Larry
2255 parts update
Posted by Mike on 7/12/2001 at 21:38:10 IP: 206.150.146.65
I got all of my parts through O'brien Co. Imp. They had all of the parts on hand. I took your advise and looked at the rod and main bearings. They were very good and fairly new. But the wrist pins and pistons are very loose and we found a small piece of piston in the pan. I am in the process of getting the 3150 bored and completly overhauled. I am going to take the pump and injectors and get them gone through. I want just a tad bit more power out of the 2255. It was running close to stock horsepower. What would be a safe horsepower for the tractor W/O overheating it, and having longgivity reliability out of motor and drivetrain? Your advise would appreciated.
Re: 2255 parts update
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 7/13/2001 at 11:29:49 IP: 64.244.12.250
The guys i have talked to say you are ok as long as you don't add a turbo.They claim the turbo needs a larger air intake system.
Re: 2255 parts update
Posted by Mike on 7/14/2001 at 01:01:56 IP: 206.150.146.95
I really don't want a massive horsepower increase just an extra 15-20 horses.
Do I have enough cooling capacity to prevent overheating problems?
Re: 2255 parts update
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:31:35 IP: 209.163.7.63
I wouldn't exceed 150 HP. One of my concerns with that engine is the exhaust system that is under the oil pan. I would like to see that out of there. (Change the exhaust system) Or place an asbestos sheet or a metal heat shield in there some way between the exhaust system and the engine. The more HP you get the hotter the exhaust. If your radiator is in good shape your cooling capacity should be o.k. Sorry for the delay in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show at Plain City OH.
770 Woes, new info
Posted by Greg Raser on 7/12/2001 at 20:59:13 IP: 63.164.209.23
Finally,, got to 770 problem,,,,, remember it locked up the rear wheels and stalled motor while driving down the road,,, I pulled the pto assembly out, shaft is in tact, but the splined hubs on the pto clutch discs sheared off ALL the rivets on both discs,,, wow,,, that is why the pto did not work after the disaster,,,,Now I am no rocket scientist,[ or mechanic] but,, I think the sheared off rivets were a result of the sudden stop,,, of the spinning shaft,,, and "something else is broken somewhere in the belly of the beast, that caused the jam up. The motor stills runs ok, and the hydraulics still work,, and after I pulled it home , I tried forward and reverse, and it went forwards and in reverse,, but I only moved it a few feet, and did not try ALL the gears... I can replace the discs,, or heck,, just put new rivets in to make it work,,,, but,,, what next ?? OH,, the pto to pto outputshaft gears "looked" fine,, I shined the flashlight through the pto hole in rear end,,,, but there is a whole lot of stuff in there,,,, and if something is broken, it surely is laying in the bottom,,,,, ugh,,,, One other factor,, it has the power boost system, but it only works in the forward position [ always did since I have had it, and the previous owner said it failed a long time ago], is that another suspect ?
Re: 770 Woes, new info
Posted by Larry wolfe on 7/13/2001 at 11:25:29 IP: 64.244.12.250
The rivets where probably about to break anyway.The power booster is a direct clutch that locks it in direct drive.Plus there is a reduction gear that drives through a sprag clutch(over running clutch)for low.From your description the sprag is probably bad.Yes something could jam in their.One thing you could try would be to drain the rear and transmission,if you get metal parts comeing out,thats where he problem is.
Re: 770 Woes, new info
Posted by Greg Raser on 7/13/2001 at 13:40:15 IP: 63.164.209.38
Thanks,,, yeah,, I was not to worried about the pto clutch rivets,, they could have been almost broken , the previous owner used it with a Woods belly mower, maybe they were weakened after many hours of that.... I will drain the rearend and see what comes out,,,,, Whatever did break,,,, is,,,,,,, at least for the moment, in the clear of other moving parts, but something could hanging by a thread,,,maybe it is time to send this one to the bone yard
Re: 770 Woes, new info
Posted by Larry on 7/13/2001 at 18:40:57 IP: 64.244.12.121
Don't give up yet.I know some guys that let the gear oil get too low and bearing rollers dropped into the ring and pinion gears.After replacing the bearings they ran it for years with the gears all marked up.
Re: 770 Woes, new info
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:22:34 IP: 209.163.7.63
I agree with everything that Larry Wolfe says. I wouldn't give up on it yet either. I would drain the rear end and transmission compartments and see if there is anything in there. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show at Plain City OH. Almost 600 Olivers there. Over 100 implements to go with them. It was a beautiful sight. Larry
PTO on 1800C
Posted by B White on 7/12/2001 at 20:42:33 IP: 198.108.162.126
I'm still working on the bugs on my 1800C. The PTO would not stop turning so I pulled the unit and took it apart. I have read before on this site that the clutch plates need to be flat. My friction plates are flat however my steel plates are all bowed somewhat like a dinner plate, curved from the center to the outside. Since all of them are like this I would like to know if they are supposed to have a bow in them, perhaps to provide a spring action for the engagement, or are they supposed to be perfectly flat? If they are supposed to be flat, I would need new steel plates. Do you know of a good source? The local AGCO dealer prices the steel plates at $25 each and I need five. Also, is it necessary to replace the friction plates as well, even if they are flat? Replacing those requires another 6 plates at $28 each. I don't use the PTO much, just occasional brush hogging. Thanks for your help. One more question , when I drained the final drive almost 14 gallons came out. The book calls for about 10 gallons. Is it likely the hydraulic system is leaking into the final drive?
Re: PTO on 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/17/2001 at 17:47:49 IP: 209.163.7.96
You will need to replace those warped plates. If the friction plates are flat they are probably o.k. On you hydraulic oil leakage, there is a little seal on a draft sensing rod. It comes down near the left hand bull gear. Chances are this is where the oil is leaking and you'll have to replace that seal. Larry.....
Super 55
Posted by Kevin on 7/12/2001 at 15:18:29 IP: 209.62.162.208
Hi Larry:
I am getting back about my '55 Super 55 that wasn't making power. I took the opportunity to check out the engine as long as I was getting dirty. Thanks to you I now have Power! I have finished converting the 55 to 12 volt, when I bought it the coil and ignition were being run through a resistor to reduce it to 6 volt. I have the following questions: 1) Have I blundered by upgrading the ignition to 12 volt? Is something going to burn out? 2) What is the original engine compression for the Waukesha? Mine varies from 130 to 160. 3) Is the Timing Chain prone to stretching/slipping? Thanks for your help. Kevin
Re: Super 55
Posted by Larry wolfe on 7/13/2001 at 11:10:00 IP: 64.244.12.250
12 volt is the way to go,you do need a coil with resistor or a resistor(12volt) past the coil to keep the coil from overheating. You have more compression than i have ever had.Thease engines have timing gears not chains.They rarely cause any problems.
Re: Super 55
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:14:13 IP: 209.163.7.63
No. I don't think you have blundered in upgrading the ignition. It should give pretty good service with that range of compression so I think it is fine. There is no Timing Chain, it is gears. Sorry for the delay in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show at Plain City OH. Larry...
Oliver 1250 Gas
Posted by Richard Skinner on 7/11/2001 at 06:12:54 IP: 63.172.138.201
Hello Larry & Sandy! It's been awhile. My neighbor just bought a 1250 Gas for $1800 and he says it's in good shape. I don't think he has picked it up yet. I have heard nightmares about this little tractor, such as the engine is by Fiat and doesn't hold together to well, parts are hard to find and very expensive, and if I remember correctly, they run a 28" tire which is not easy to find anymore. Can you give me your opinion on this little machine? Is it really that bad?
Re: Oliver 1250 Gas
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/16/2001 at 21:08:53 IP: 209.163.7.63
I think they are a pretty good little tractor but parts are hard to find. Yes, they were built by Fiat. We just returned from the National Oliver Show at Plain City OH. Sorry for the delay in answering. Larry.....
tires
Posted by Cary P. on 7/7/2001 at 17:45:51 IP: 12.77.61.226
We have recently aquired, on a trial basis, an Oliver tractor. We have no idea what year. It is old though. Today it ended up with a flat. This may sound stupid, but can you patch or repair flat tires on a tractor? And to what extent? And if not, where is the best place to begin looking for one...a tire for this monster.
Re: tires
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/7/2001 at 19:58:08 IP: 209.163.7.39
Hi Cary. We recieved your email before checking the website. As we said in our email, look in the Yellow Pages of your phone book under Farm Tires. Depending on the amount of damage, your tire may be able to be repaired at the same place you would buy a new one. A place like Firestone or Goodyear etc. Larry....
55 Radiator
Posted by Keith on 7/6/2001 at 20:27:39 IP: 216.158.72.144
Larry: The top tank on my radiator has split. When I looked closer I noticed a MOPAR stamp on it. I would like to change it out. Thought I heard once that 55,66,& 77's all had the same one. is this true? Not a lot of 55's around here but maybe a 77 rad. will do? Will you be in Plain City? I'm looking forward to it. should be there on Sat. and again Sun. if the weather is nice.
Re: 55 Radiator
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/6/2001 at 23:23:58 IP: 209.163.7.14
Hi Keith. No the radiator for a 55 is different. Check with Tim Smith at Smitty's Tractor Parts in Dalton OH - 330-832-9792. Yes, we plan to be in Plain City Thurs. Fri. Sat. Larry........
Re: 55 Radiator
Posted by Keith on 7/9/2001 at 16:47:06 IP: 216.158.72.130
Larry, do you intend to show something at Plain City? Just wondered if I could look you up? Thanks Keith
Re: 55 Radiator
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/9/2001 at 21:52:11 IP: 209.163.7.63
No. That's too far for us to haul. We try not to go over 150 miles or so. Ask around some of the Chapter Booths and we'll probably see each other. Larry..........
1800C Hydra-Shift cooler
Posted by John on 7/6/2001 at 04:52:42 IP: 192.232.119.194
The exchanger that cools the Hydra-Power fluid on my 1800C developed a crack yesterday. Fluid blows out left side. Have you ever seen one of these units successfully brazed or otherwise re-sealed?
Re: 1800C Hydra-Shift cooler
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/6/2001 at 16:41:29 IP: 209.163.7.91
Take it to a radiator repair shop and see if they can fix it. If not, possibly a salvage yard might have a used one. Larry................
Oliver 1850
Posted by Brian on 7/5/2001 at 10:51:27 IP: 63.250.76.63
Hi. I am a new owner of an Oliver 1850. I have a question on the external cylinder operation. I mow with a Woods batwing. When the batwing comes in contact with an obstruction, the batwing itself raises and will not lower itself, unlike the IH 1086 that I have been using. The Oliver does not have an external cylinder "float" position. Is there something that I am missing in order for the batwing to correct itself and lower on it's own? As of now I have to push it down myself with the hydraulic levers. Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Brian
Re: Oliver 1850
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/6/2001 at 16:38:46 IP: 209.163.7.91
Your problem is a design characteristic of the Oliver. You have to do it the way you are doing it. To overcome this problem, you must install an external control valve with a float. It can be plumbed into the hydraulic system fairly easily and does not interfere in any way with the rest of the operations of the tractor. The last valve like this that I purchased was around $175. If you need more info on where to find one etc., let me know through email. Larry..........
Re: Oliver 1850
Posted by Brian on 7/7/2001 at 07:47:48 IP: 63.250.76.61
Thanks for the reply to my question. That is helpful and I will be looking for an external control valve. If you know of somewhere offhand where to look that would be helpful as well. Thanks, Brian
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/7/2001 at 20:15:04 IP: 209.163.7.39
The one we purchased is a Cross. The part number is: 133259 BA13AG3EA0 HYD VALVE - SBA1. This is an open-center single-acting control valve with float position. We purchased it at a Farm Fleet Store. If you can't find it there, contact: Cross MFG. Inc. 100 Factory St. Lewis KS 67552 Larry.....
Re: Oliver 1850
Posted by Brian Crow on 7/8/2001 at 08:01:47 IP: 63.250.76.25
Thanks Larry. I will go try Farm & Fleet. So glad I found this site! Brian
Steering on 1800C
Posted by B White on 7/3/2001 at 19:24:25 IP: 198.108.151.13
The steering on my 1800C is erratic. Sometimes I have to turn the steering wheel almost 1 whole turn before the wheels turn. This typically happens when changing directions from right to left or vice versa. My unit has power steering with the hydra motor in the dash area with no direct connection to the power steering unit in the front. The service manual for the 1800/1900 that I got from Mary Ann shows power steering with a direct mechanical connection to the steering wheel and gives no info about a hydra motor. Are the hydra motors only in the later 1800's? Is this problem likely to be in the hydra motor, the power steering unit in the front, or perhaps is the flow divider not providing enough fluid to operate properly. If it is the hydra motor, are these rebuildable? Thanks for your help.
Re: Steering on 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/6/2001 at 16:19:18 IP: 209.163.7.91
Yes, the hydra-motor was introduced in the C series. The problem could be any one of 3 different spots. The problem may be where the steering arm hooks on to the output shaft at the bottom of the steering unit under the radiator. It could be in the hydra-motor itself. Or it could be in the flow divider that furnishes oil to the hydra-motor. It might be foreign material in the control spool that causes it to hang up momentarily. Check the front end first, then the flow divider, lastly the hydra-motor itself. I havn't had a real high success percentage with hydra-motors that don't work right. I don't think your problem is with the hydra-motor, I think it is up there under the radiator.
Re: Steering on 1800C
Posted by B White on 7/7/2001 at 21:42:40 IP: 198.108.160.222
You were right Larry. The problem is in the Pitman shaft and steering sector arm. Apparently sometime in the tractor's past the bolt connecting the two was not made tight enough and the splines in the Pitman shaft and the steering sector arm started to slip. Now the splines are worn on the shaft, and some of the splines (there are 9 total) on the steering sector arm are gone. This accounted for the play in the steering wheel. Any ideas on the best way to fix this? Would you have any used parts that would fit this tractor? If not, where would be a good source for reasonably priced used parts? Thanks again for your help.
Re: Steering on 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/8/2001 at 06:43:12 IP: 209.163.7.74
Tom Hassenfritz Equip. (T.H.E.) 800-634-4885 or thecompany@farmtel.net You will have to replace all the worn parts with new. They aren't terribly expensive. I do not have any used parts for this tractor. Larry.........
1550
Posted by Lou on 7/1/2001 at 13:15:01 IP: 208.20.130.183
I have a few problems with my 1550, 1) yesterday the Hydra-Power unit quit working, I still have direct, what should I look for to fix this problem? 2) have always had trouble shifting this tractor, the clutch seems to be hanging and not releaseing cleanly, with hydra-power working if it would not shift and shifed the hydra-power to under then I could shift the main trans. I have adjusted the cluth rod till I am almost touching the throwout bearing. 3) where is a good place to have my injectors rebuilt?
Re: 1550
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/1/2001 at 19:32:44 IP: 209.163.7.18
l. The sprague clutch is slipping on the low side. The unit will have to be taken out of the tractor and repaired. 2. The condition of hard shifting is normal for this unit. Shifting to under drive as you discribe is what you have to do to relieve lock-up. When the hydra-power is being repaired, I would inspect the clutch and have it repaired as needed. Check the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing also at this time. 3. A diesel repair shop should be able to service your injectors.
Re: 1550
Posted by Lou on 7/4/2001 at 16:18:57 IP: 208.20.130.183
Larry, I should explain my Hydra-Power problem. When I shift to under the tractor behaves as if it is still in direct. It moves and pulls good, I have put a guage on the pressure and have 150 in direct and 50 in under. The tractor will not free wheel going down a steep grade. Is it possible that my clutches are not disengaging. There are no abnormal noises or any thing from the tractor. Also is there a kit avilible with all new o-rings and bearings and seals avilible from agco or will I have to order all the pieces separate. Thanks Lou
Re: 1550
Posted by Larry wolfe on 7/4/2001 at 19:21:53 IP: 64.244.12.122
Yes your clutch can be stuck with carbon,also the return spring can be broken or weak,or you could have the same problem i had. That was a clogged return line to the resivior.First off your lubrication preasure is to high it should be 15.From my own testing it only takes 10 to lock up the direct clutch if the line is partily plugged.There are tests that can tell which problem you have.When you first start your machine with foot on the clutch shift in to gear and start off, the tractor should start in low and shift to high when trans moves.If the tractor does this then the clutch is not stuck.Second test remove filter and pour fluid into the filter base, oil should drain out into the resivior, if not or it goes slowly the return is plugged.You should then drain all oil and force some cleaning fluid through the base drain hole until it flows freely. All the relief and spool valves allso empty into this same return line,so any extra preasure here allso goes to the clutches.I hope this is clear because it can save the work of removeing the whole unit.
Re: 1550
Posted by Larry Harsin on 7/6/2001 at 16:08:18 IP: 209.163.7.80
We concur with Larry Wolfe's evaluation. Sandy had surgery and we have been gone. We hope you have good luck getting your tractor straightened out. Larry.......
770 woes,,,
Posted by Greg Raser on 6/30/2001 at 19:10:30 IP: 63.164.209.50
I was driving my 770 up to my house to get ready to put different tires on the rear,,,then,,,,,,,, it sorta' locked up [ transmission, I think ] pulled it home,,, started sluggish,, then another "clunk",,, then started fine,, will go forwards and backwards,,, [ did not try "all" gears ] ,, and hydraulics are still working,,, but,,,,,, "NO" pto,,,,, oh boy,,,, now what,,, Can I see what damage there may be by removing that big cover on the top of gear box ??
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/30/2001 at 20:10:08 IP: 209.163.7.44
Find out what happened and let me know. I might have some parts or know someone who does. Larry......
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Greg Raser on 7/1/2001 at 01:06:09 IP: 63.164.209.35
I was running along in 6th gear,,,, about half throttle,,, hit the hydraulic lever and it squawked, like it does when pushing a dead head,, then "CLUNK" locked up,, threw me against wheel,, killed motor,,,, WOW, was that fun,,,don't sound good,,,, but like my earlier post, said,, it starts fine now, hydraulics still squawk,,, but something broke,,,scared too look in the belly of the rear end,, may wait a day or two,, to build up courage,,, will let ya'now what I see,, thanks,, greg
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 7/2/2001 at 19:46:50 IP: 64.244.12.192 If the pto doesn't work i would start there first it's easy to get to,compared to the trans cover.
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Greg Raser on 7/2/2001 at 23:12:19 IP: 63.164.209.53
I have not started yet, got the ole' girl in the garage ,, getting ready for the operation,,,like I said it was a fairly violent "stop" or lockup,, but what-ever locked it up, fell free,,, maybe,,,,I was just thinking if I pull the gear box lid,,, I could "see" better, and inspect for damage,,,,,
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Larry on 7/3/2001 at 11:28:57 IP: 64.244.12.74
The pto clutches have been known to fly apart and jam against the houseing,so if it's not working i would look here first.Just remove the 4 bolts holding the cover on.
Re: 770 woes,,,
Posted by Greg Raser on 7/3/2001 at 12:25:44 IP: 63.164.209.31 ok,, thanks,,, to both you Larry's,,,, Still have not started anything yet,,, was ready to start Monday night, then got called into work,,, 4th coming up,,, too much other stuff going on,,, Maybe it is only a small disaster,,,, I will let ya' know greg
Oliver 1550
Posted by Roxsann Cooper on 6/29/2001 at 22:24:31 IP: 198.111.151.42 We just purchased an Oliver 1550. I can't seem to find out what year it is and if it is just called a 1550. The Model # is 255-21136, serial,169 060-504. Can you help? Thanks Roxsann Cooper Michigan
Re: Oliver 1550
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 6/30/2001 at 18:09:10 IP: 64.244.12.177
It looks like a 1966.
Re: Oliver 1550
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/30/2001 at 20:05:39 IP: 209.163.7.44
It looks like Larry Wolfe has checked it for you. We have been gone for a few days to the Antique Machinery Expo at Ankeny IA. Thanks to Larry Wolfe. Larry Harsin..........
oliver tractor
Posted by Sanders on 6/29/2001 at 10:59:50 IP: 205.213.240.65
Is there such thing as a Oliver Tractor 500? I have one. I thought I would if you have a picture of one and send it to my email address? Thank you, Sanders
Re: oliver tractor
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 6/30/2001 at 11:23:04 IP: 64.244.12.50
Yes these tractors where built in europe and sold as olivers for a year or so.No parts will interchange with US built models
Re: oliver tractor
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/30/2001 at 20:02:30 IP: 209.163.7.44
I agree with Larry Wolfe. I think they were built by David Brown in England. I don't have a picture of one. Possibly, Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Hdq. in Charles City would have one. Her email is Mary Ann Townsend: hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry.....
G 1355 Oliver
Posted by R Kerr on 6/27/2001 at 13:54:28 IP: 164.58.10.126
I would like to find out what horsepower the G 1355 tractor is, and what year it was manufactured. Any other info would be appreciated.
Re: G 1355 Oliver
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/27/2001 at 22:36:23 IP: 209.163.7.73
The 1355's were built from 1969-1971 and were an extension of the Fiat built tractors being offered by Oliver at that time. I don't have any information about the horse power. I would say it is probably around 50 horse power. You can get an Operator's Manual from Oliver Hdq. from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry...
Re: G 1355 Oliver
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 6/28/2001 at 14:27:55 IP: 64.244.12.144
There could be some confusion on this tractor.If you have a 1355 then it's a 55 HP green tractor.But you could allso have a G1355 which is a 145 HP tractor painted yellow or green and white that was made by moline.Both tractors where on dealer lots at about the same time and are often confused.
HG or OC3? Problems
Posted by Guy Chapman on 6/25/2001 at 23:23:07 IP: 64.209.31.183
Hay Larry, I bought a small crawler from a guy that couldn't get the mag to spark. After taking it out to find out how it works, I cleaned and regaped the points. It runs now. The #2 compression is low, and it smokes, Not so much oil but gas smell. When moving forward or reverse, the drive hesitates or may stop with a low not quite gringing sound. Applying right or left levers get it moving again, but a short distance later it will hesitate again. Im told it is an Oliver HG 1950s someting and the engine has ben replaced.I cant find a plate on the frame. The under carage is green and it's repainted yellow. The printed info on the engine tag is worn off, but the stamped info is: 45 1XK3 3-1/8X4 2417168 008 006 How do I find the timing marks and is it TDC? What are the valve setings? Are the levers clutches or breaks or both? Any ideas on where to start on the drive problem as crawlers are new to me. I need to know what I have to get a manual. All help is appricated!! THANKS
Re: HG or OC3? Problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/26/2001 at 06:28:06 IP: 209.163.7.66
Guy. Contact Landis Zimmerman about your crawler problems. He is the Oliver/Cletrac Crawler expert and he will have parts you may need. 717-738-2573 Landis is located in Ephrata PA. To get a manual, after you find out what you have, Landis may have one or you can get one from Oliver Hdq. from Mary Ann Townsend hpocacc@fiai.net. Good Luck. Larry..
1755 distributor
Posted by Thomas on 6/21/2001 at 22:38:42 IP: 216.138.38.129
My 1755 has been giving me fits I havent had it long I figerd out the holly was wore out I am puting one of those malery replace ment distributors in it I was wandering if you had any tips on instalation and seting the timing also the holly cap has numbers on it next to each plug wire the #1 cylinder is the Rear one the way the numbers are acording to the cap is that right or has someone mixed up the wires some time or another or do those numbers have any theng to do with the firing order. thank you Thomas
Re: 1755 distributor
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/22/2001 at 06:51:16 IP: 209.163.7.52
I don't think that cap is the correct one. Possibly it came from a Ford. Really, the way it was built, the plug wire terminal that's closest to no. 1 spark plug is no. 1. Then proceed through the firing order going clockwise around the cap. When you go to install the Mallory dist. in the engine, there is only one way that dist. will fit in that engine. After you set this dist. in the engine, you will have to remove the no. 1 spark plug then turn the engine until no. 1 comes up on compression. Then remove the timing cover on the fly wheel and find the TDC mark on it. At this point, install no. 1 spark plug wire in the cap where it is closest to where the rotor is located. Then proceed through the firing order going clockwise from the no. 1 with the rest of the wires in the cap. After you get it running, use a timing light and time it at 24 degrees at 2400 RPM. With the engine running at idle speed, approx. 600-700 RPM, the timing should be approx. 3-6 degre
Re: 1755 distributor
Posted by Thomas on 6/25/2001 at 18:16:17 IP: 216.138.38.89
It could be a ford I know as good as it looks and clean as it is it cant be the origenel but it dont have the ford ovel on it, I dont know about tractor parts but truck parts usualy have it some were. Where is the #1 cylender then. Thank You
Re: 1755 distributor
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/25/2001 at 19:23:37 IP: 209.163.7.70
The number one cylinder should be the next one clockwise from the one closest to the engine when viewing it from the top. This cap was probably picked up at an auto parts store and the numbers on it are for a completely different engine. Larry...
OLiver 1800C
Posted by B White on 6/21/2001 at 20:31:45 IP: 198.108.161.152
Hi Larry. I have an Oliver 1800C, 1964, that looks similar to the photo on your web site. The Oliver emblem on the front of the tractor above the radiator is missing. Any ideas on where I could get one. The AGCO dealer says they are no longer available. Also, the round emblem that goes on the steering wheel is gone as well. Any ideas for that. Thanks.
Re: OLiver 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/21/2001 at 21:26:28 IP: 209.163.7.29
Check with Korves Brothers. 618-939-8772 or korvesoliver.com or korves@htc.net. I will look in the morning and see if I have a radiator emblem. I know I don't have the steering wheel one. Korves might have these. Larry.....
Re: OLiver 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/23/2001 at 08:07:09 IP: 209.163.7.66
I do have a rediator emblem. I want $12.50 plus shipping. If you want it, email your address to me and I can check shipping. I don't think it will amount to much. Larry........
Re: OLiver 1800C
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/25/2001 at 13:15:09 IP: 209.163.7.56
Hi Bob! Your emblem is on it's way. There is a statement inside. Send a check when you get the emblem. Larry.......
Super 55 hydraulics
Posted by John Spechko on 6/21/2001 at 07:02:20 IP: 207.214.121.55
I recently acquired a 1955 Super 55 which was leaking hydraulic oil into the transmission. I pulled the hydraulic system and the oil pan is in good shape - just some surface rust above the final drive gears where the pan is shallow. Perhaps the pump blew a seal. It is a Vickers V120-35-218. The tractor has a loader on it and an external control valve - Vickers SP-212. The adjusting knob is stuck in the Hi position. Any tips on repairing this? Now that I have the hydraulics off what else should I replace besides the pump seals and gaskets? Should I separate the oil pan from the hydraulic housing. I have the loader cylinders being repaired because one was leaking. The three point hitch was working OK, I believe it is called a manual system because there is a selector lever next to the right hand lift arm.
Re: Super 55 hydraulics
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/21/2001 at 21:20:47 IP: 209.163.7.29
John. I have never had the adjusting knob stuck before and I don't know how I would fix it. The pump seals and gaskets are all you should have to replace in the hydraulics. Yes, you should separate the oil pan from the hydraulic housing.
Re: Super 55 hydraulics
Posted by John Spechko on 6/21/2001 at 21:37:57 IP: 207.214.148.167
Thanks Larry, I will try taking the valve apart and see if I can free up the adjuster. John
Oliver 550 Diesel
Posted by James Kuczynski on 6/19/2001 at 14:20:58 IP: 12.76.84.86
Larry; I've got a tansmission oil leak coming from the front of the case. Any suggestions short of having to split the tractor? Also, I've discovered what looks like a flexable grease line in the access area for the PTO clutch. Is this normal? Thanks, Jim
Re: Oliver 550 Diesel
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/19/2001 at 20:15:32 IP: 209.163.7.36
You're going to have to split the tractor to find out where the leak is. It could be leaking at the top shaft or the bottom. Probably the bottom. Before you split it, check the breather for the transmission on the right side where the axle housing bolts onto the transmission case. Yes, that flexable grease line is a grease tube for the throw-out bearing on the PTO. Larry..
2255 Parts
Posted by Mike on 6/18/2001 at 01:39:33 IP: 206.150.146.90
I was wondering if you knew of anybody that has tried to make the two 30-3068412 exhaust pipes at a muffler shop or has a set of NOS laying around. Both sides have have rusted out where they bolt on to the manifold. Agco wants $385 a piece for these pipes. I had PTO seal leaking. When we pulled the long top PTO shaft out 30-3075338, the splines that go into the flywheel are half gone. When we replace the shaft would it be wise to remove the motor to replace the 30-3064913 PTO hub? More than likely it isn't very good either. Where would be some good sources to start looking for a shaft? I haven't priced one through Agco. The way they price priced the exhaust pipes I don't think I want to know. If we take the motor out, this tractor has the original 3150 Cat with 4600 hours on it. Would it be a good idea to put main bearings in it while it is out? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Re: 2255 Parts
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/18/2001 at 06:18:23 IP: 209.163.7.85
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 about parts. There is an after-market company building those shafts now, and Tom will know the source. Yes, I would certainly put bearings in that engine. (At least check them) There are some machine shops that can respline those shafts. Chances are good that your drive hub needs replacing. Possibly, you could find and exhaust shop that would fabricate some exhaust pipes for you. Larry..
sticky brakes
Posted by b white on 6/17/2001 at 19:19:32 IP: 198.108.163.52
I have an Oliver 1800C. The brakes, usually the right one, sometimes stays on after I release the brake pedal. Putting the tractor in reverse releases it. I have taken the brake apart, cleaned the steel balls and grooves, put a small amount of grease on the balls, and checked the springs. Everything seems ok, but it still sticks. Any other ideas? Thanks.
Re: sticky brakes
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/17/2001 at 22:04:46 IP: 209.163.7.55
If the brake discs are worn down, you better put in a new set of brake discs. That might help. Be sure that the pin that fits through the clevis on the adjusting bolt is not sticky and is not binding. Larry Harsin......
Re: sticky brakes
Posted by B White on 6/18/2001 at 09:37:29 IP: 141.218.111.60
Thanks for the reply Larry. I have put new discs on both sides. I will check the pin that fits through the clevis. If there is anything else you can think of, just let me know. Thanks for your help.
88 Oliver Diesel Starter
Posted by Greg Davis on 6/12/2001 at 08:06:05 IP: 204.211.9.161
Larry, A couple of weeks ago I asked you about parts for an 88 Oliver diesel starter. Thanks to your help I have located them. I really appreciate what you do for the Finest in Farm Machinery owners. Greg Davis North Carolina
Re: 88 Oliver Diesel Starter
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/13/2001 at 05:57:10 IP: 209.163.7.12
You're welcome! We very much enjoy hearing from all the Oliver people and helping when we can. Larry.....
Super 55 Gas?
Posted by Keith on 6/11/2001 at 20:38:46 IP: 216.158.72.19
Larry: Me AGAIN. I have a similar problem to Kevin. After getting the PTO fixed I was FINALLY ready to do some mowing with the 55. It was doing a pretty good job for about 20 minutes. Then it faltered and quit like it ran out of fuel. It would restart but at a slower rpm. If I brought it up to about 1600 it would die again. If I let it cool down for an hour it would run for 20 min. again. I have: Removed the fuel tank. Someone said it could be a bug or something in the fuel tank. Refilled the tank twice off of the tractor and drained it through the fuel bowl and seemed to have good flow. Replaced a old section of rubber line that was questionable. I have installed an electronic ignition in the distributor so it is not in the points. I have noticed that the person that had the tractor before me has routed the fuel line almost touching against the exhaust manifold. Could the heat cause a vapor lock? I plan on moving this reguardless. I have run this till it quits several times. With the pto in it seems to make the problem worse. it will run longer if it is disengaged. Any suggestions?
Re: Super 55 Gas?
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/12/2001 at 05:45:44 IP: 209.163.7.70
You may have an ignition coil that gets weak after it gets warm. Have it tested. Also there is a possibility that you have a corroded connection from the ignition switch to the coil. Yes, heat could cause a vapor lock. Larry
Re: Super 55 Gas?
Posted by Keith on 6/12/2001 at 21:46:12 IP: 216.158.72.120
Larry, Replaced the coil and rerouted the fuel line behind the battery sheild. Still no luck. I'm begining to feel I have a sticking float in the carb. It just acts like it runs out of fuel. Keith
Re: Super 55 Gas?
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/13/2001 at 05:54:05 IP: 209.163.7.12
Then you'll have to take the carb. off and check it over and get it cleaned. Good Luck. Larry........
Re: Super 55 Gas?
Posted by Jake on 6/13/2001 at 23:00:27 IP: 198.111.209.86
Check the gas cap and make sure that it is vented. An unvented cap will act the same as a vapor lock and disappear once the cap is opened. Worth a check.
1550 oil pressure - main bearings
Posted by Rich on 6/10/2001 at 22:38:11 IP: 209.2.37.23
Larry: I recently purchased a 1965 1550 gas. The tractor starts and runs well. The clock says 4400hrs but does not work. Compression is 150 +/- 5 lbs. I connected an oil pressure gauge to the engine and the pressure was very erratic. I replaced the pressure relief valve which was worn and the pressure became more stable. The oil pressure when hot is 4lbs at 500rpm and low teens at 1200 rpm. It has 4 quarts of 30 and a quart of 10w-30 teflon based oil in the crankcase. The service manual says minimum of 5 lbs at idle and 20-40lbs at 2300. I only see pressure in the twenties when it is first started. Do you think it would be worthwhile investing in a rebuilt oil pump? Do you think the tractor can be used until the low oil pressure is corrected? Some one told me they replaced the mains in an old truck engine without pulling the engine. They backed off on the main caps and were able to slide the bearings around the journal one at a time. Is it possible to replace the main bearings without pulling the engine? The parts and service manuals I have are reprints and it is difficult to see some of the details. The truck I mentioned did not have a one-piece rear main oil seal as does this engine. Looking at a Central Tractor catalog, they list bearings for three crankshafts: 181411, 185111 and 196211. Do you know where the crankshaft number is stamped? Is there another way of identifying which crankshaft is in the tractor. Another question: I want to change the hydraulic fluid. The manual specs 10w with additive or type "A" transmission fluid. Type "A" has been superseded by Dexron III. The hydraulic fluid currently in the tractor is not transmission fluid - its some sort of oil - weight unknown. If I pump out the existing fluid as described in the manuals, and replace it with Dexron III, would the oil that remains in the power steering unit create problems? Do you have any preferences with respect to hydraulic fluid? Despite the low oil pressure, I really like this tractor. Mechanics obviously influenced the design; it is so unlike machines made today. Thanks. Rich
Re: 1550 oil pressure - main bearings
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/10/2001 at 22:55:52 IP: 209.163.7.68
No, I would not purchase a rebuilt oil pump yet. I would check and replace main bearings. It will be o.k. to use the tractor with low oil pressure as long as it isn't heavy work. Yes, you can replace the mains without pulling the engine. It is usually stamped towards the front of the crank shaft. You will have to remove the pan to see it. You can remove a bearing insert and get the number off of that, take it to a parts dealer, they can match it up to order new bearings. If the crank shows wear, you may be able to obtain a .003 undersize bearing from your AGCO Dealer. No, remaining oil in the hydraulic system will not pose a problem. I would use Non-foaming 10W hydraulic
Re: 1550 oil pressure - main bearings
Posted by larry Wolfe on 6/11/2001 at 21:00:40 IP: 64.244.13.204
This engine has a restricter(small hole) in the oil filter,so only part of the oil will flow through it.If the wrong filter is installed the oil preasure will allways be low no matter what you do.Look for this hole in the center of filter first.
1955 hydraulic
Posted by dave on 6/10/2001 at 18:59:53 IP: 152.163.195.184
I just recently picked up another 1955 at an auction. the hydraulics dont really work very smooth. They are real jerky. And it has a noisy pump. The pump gets really hot. I have changed all the fluid and external filters. Are there any internal screens or filters That I can replace or clean? Do you have any other ideas of what could be wrong. Also have you heard of anyone putting a 5.9 liter cummins engine in to the 1955? Do you know how hard it would be and where I could get some more information about it? Thanks, Dave
Re: 1955 hydraulic
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/10/2001 at 22:41:09 IP: 209.163.7.61
I am not much help on the hydraulic system on a 1955. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have the info about putting the Cummins in it also. Larry
Re: 1955 hydraulic
Posted by larry Wolfe on 6/11/2001 at 20:51:33 IP: 64.244.13.204
Any air in the hyd system will make noise and cause the pump to destroke.The varible pump is controlled by a small compensator valve on the end of the pump.It has 4 small bolts.This should be checked for correct operation.Diagnosis of this system is long and complicated.Get a service manuel if you intend to do it yourself.
Super 55 Gas
Posted by Kevin on 6/9/2001 at 13:28:09 IP: 209.83.76.55
Hi Larry; I'm very glad to find your site! My '55 Super 55 was getting a workout last week when it suddenly lost power. It will still run and drive but is low on power and will not idle below 600 RPM. My first thought was a dead cylinder due to a broken valve spring. But after reading the archives i'm wondering about the carb. I could pull on the governor and get the engine to rev at lower RPM's and I also have trouble getting the engine to climb to the higher speeds. I would appreciate any insight or suggestions. The engine is not making any bad noises, but it does backfire when I throttle down. Thanks, Kevin
Re: Super 55 Gas
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/9/2001 at 21:07:17 IP: 209.163.7.82
It could be electrical or fuel either one. My first guess would be the fuel. Check the sediment bulb and make sure there is ample gas getting into the carb. Make sure the air cleaner system is letting enough air into the carb. Then check to see if it has a hot spark at the coil wire. If it is electrical, you could have bad points or a bad condenser. If those are o.k. possibly a weak coil
Re: Super 55 Gas
Posted by larry Wolfe on 6/9/2001 at 21:20:39 IP: 64.244.12.39
If you can pull directly on the link between the carb and govner and get it to run more like you want,then i would look first at the linkage to the throttle shaft and the throttle plate and the screws that hold it on.
Re: Super 55 Gas
Posted by on 6/9/2001 at 22:16:01 IP: 209.83.76.41
Thanks for the tips. I suspect the carb throttle myself. I should have mentioned that fuel flow through the filter was good and that I had spark at all four cylinders.(I pulled each plug wire while at 800 RPM and each cylinder "popped off" on reinstall.) I got worried because #1 & #2 hardly changed the engine sound, but #3 & #4 really bogged down when disconnected. I am planning a Compression Test when next I visit ( Its at my cottage) and if that checks out I guess I'll pull the Carb. Are the Marvel Carb rebuild kits available at NAPA as some people claim? Thanks for the imput, this site is a Godsend. Kevin
Re: Super 55 Gas
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/10/2001 at 07:33:26 IP: 209.163.7.65
Before you tear your carb apart, check your setting and make sure your points and condenser are good and points are properly adjusted. Twenty two thousandths gap. I don't know if the Marvel Carb kits are available at NAPA. If they aren"t, try Quality Farm and Country or your AGCO Dealer.Larry
1855 drinking oil
Posted by Shep on 6/8/2001 at 07:47:19 IP: 216.76.116.104
Hey Larry, I have another question for you. I have an 1855 with a 310 Waukesha diesel. I did an in frame rebuild on this engine about 400 hrs ago, got the kit from the Agco dealer, and replaced all the main and rod bearings, re did the upper rod bearings, new pistons, new rings, reworked the injectors and reground the valves. I did not do anything to the sleeves, but they appeared good. In the last 400 hrs it continues to drink a quart of oil ever 2 hrs of work. OK I figure its the valve guides or valves. So last week I took it all apart and had new valve guides, new valves and seats put in and put it all back togeather, the valves were in bad shape. Mowed hay with it Wednesday and it is still drinking oil as bad if not worse. Any ideas on where to look next. My next guess is that I have got a stuck oil ring somewhere or a sleeve that is scored. Could I have put the wrong pistons or rings in, I got them from agco??? I am getting really frustrated with this engine. It runs great, pulls hard, has some blue smoke coming out of the exhaust, but I cant make it stop using oil. I am afriad I will run it low in oil and blow it up one of these days. Any Ideas???
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Larry Harsin on 6/8/2001 at 21:44:04 IP: 209.163.7.45
I would have the Turbo-Charger checked. I bet you have a leaking seal on it. Look in the Turbo-Charger on the intake side and see if it is oily in there. If it is oily, it definitely needs working over or replaced. That Turbo-Charger could be leaking either side and could be blowing oil right out the exhaust.
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Shep.. Still not fixed!!!! on 6/12/2001 at 08:07:08 IP: 216.76.116.104
Found oil in the intake manifold and in the air tubes so I replaced the turbo charger in the engine. Was not a lot of oil and it was all fresh, so the turbo seal was going bad. Ran it yesterday mowing hay and it is still drinking almost 2 to 3 quarts of oil an hour. Talked with the machine shop and they will look at the head again. Is there differnt seals or O-rings I can put in the valve guides?? He could not imagine that much oil was going through the valve guides, but I have no blow by or crankcase pressure, and I have more power in that tractor then I have ever had. Where is all this oil coming from??? I am pulling the head off again and pulling a few pistons to see what is going on, I am getting very frustrated....
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 6/12/2001 at 11:12:35 IP: 64.244.12.104
I have had newly rebuilt turbos leak more oil then the one taken off!The main thing i find is new seals with a bearing so loose there is no way the seal can hold.I know of one tractor that it took 4 tries before the turbo held.
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Shep on 6/12/2001 at 15:05:49 IP: 216.76.116.104
I agree larry, it sounds like it should be the turbo doing this. So I unhooked the turbo tube to the intake and ran it without the charger and a rag over the intake manifold just to check, it is still eating oil and a big cloud of blue smoke. It is not the turbo now. I am going to do a compression test on it tonight and see if compression is up in all cylendars. Dont know what else to try. This one has me baffeled for sure. Machine shop said they would recheck the head if I bring it in tomorrow and put umbrella seals on the valve guides to make sure nothing was leaking. Is there anyway oil could be getting in the engine through the hollow head bolt that supplies the rocker arms???? I dont know what else to look for. I hate to take it back apart and still not fix the problem. Any more ideas???
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 6/12/2001 at 20:24:35 IP: 64.244.13.48
Oil can't get out of the oil bolt.With a turbo engine people claim that oil can't get sucked in past the valves.I know this is not true,because a tractor (1950t)my father bought had 2 valve seals installed wrong.Those 2 cylinders carboned up untill the rings no longer rubbed the sleeves.In a short time oil use whent from 0 to a quart in 30 minets.Some engine repair places still insist you dont need valve seals in a turbo and dont put them in.When i get a head home i install the seals myself.
Re: 1855 drinking oil
Posted by Shep on 6/13/2001 at 06:51:32 IP: 216.76.116.104
I agree, AgCo says that there were no valve guide seals needed except the small o-rings on the intakes. I am going to have the machine shop put umbrella seals on all of them today. Pulled the head off and found the leak.. Oil and water leaking into the number 6 from the back of the block. One of two ideas here, a defective or bad head gasket allowing it to leak or a crack in the head. Will have the head magnafluxed today and find out. I had a great deal of water in the oil as well causing the oil to vapor in the valve cover. I would have never guessed it was a head gasket the way it was acting. Thanks for your ideas and help larry.