1855 diesel pump timing
IP: 209.234.87.57
Posted on November 29, 2002 at 07:47:39 PM by John Finarty

need pump timing specifications for 1855 diesel. May also try to call again this evening. Many thanks for this service online.

Re(1): 1855 diesel pump timing
IP: 209.163.7.61
Posted on November 30, 2002 at 06:45:31 AM by Larry Harsin

It is 4 degrees before TDC static timing. I just checked my book this morning. Good Luck. Larry

valves
IP: 209.224.35.232
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 10:55:14 PM by k medchill

how much bigger are the valves on a1550 compared to a 77. i am lookung to do some work on the head and was woundering what would work?

Re(1): valves
IP: 209.163.7.17
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 11:18:53 PM by Larry Harsin

They are approx. 1/8 inch in diameter larger on the 1550. You could put a 1550 head on a 77. Larry

Re(2): valves
IP: 209.224.35.198
Posted on November 30, 2002 at 05:42:57 AM by k medchill

how ward is it to find one? and what would be the aprox cost?
THANKS FOR THE HELP.

Re(3): valves
IP: 209.163.7.18
Posted on December 1, 2002 at 07:10:06 AM by Larry Harsin

A 770 head would work also and would be easier to find. T.H.E. Co. has heads listed for a S77 or 770. 800-634-4885. They are approx. $470 plus shipping. Larry

Can you give me an estimate please
IP: 12.252.74.14
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 10:54:54 PM by Geoff

I have an Oliver 77 with a farmall loader and I am wondering if you can give me very rough estimate of what these are going for right now. It needs some work, but is all original I believe. I believe it justs needs some love and a paint job. Let me know what you think.

Re(1): Can you give me an estimate please
IP: 209.163.7.17
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 11:16:25 PM by Larry Harsin

It should bring about $1750 to $2000 if everything works. Larry

550 with a sticky valve
IP: 204.113.245.5
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 00:52:28 AM by Lee

Larry,
I bougt an old 550 diesel that had been sitting for 10 years. It resembles the one on your home page with the Christmas reef. After cleaning it up, it starts and runs fine. However from time to time an engine valve will stick open and I have to take the valve cover off and pop it closed. Do you have any sugestions on what the problem might be before I take the heads off? Could it be a weak spring? Could it be a sticky guide?

Re(1): 550 with a sticky valve
IP: 209.163.7.17
Posted on November 28, 2002 at 11:14:16 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be inadequate lubrication getting to the valve stems. Make sure the engine thermostat is good. I doubt is it is a weak spring or a sticky valve. Something like Marvel Mystery oil added to the engine oil might help. Larry

Chevy 350 V-8 in Fleetline 88
IP: 206.18.214.2
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 12:34:07 AM by Steve

I have access to a fleetline 88 diesel with a blown engine and I also happen to have a smallblock Chevy 350. I was wondering if you would have any suggestions on how I could use the 350 in the 88 and retain the live hydraulics and pto? I plan on installing some sort of belt drive governor on the V8.

Re(1): Chevy 350 V-8 in Fleetline 88
IP: 68.155.5.102
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 09:37:36 PM by George Steadman

I would think that a 250 or 292 inline 6 will make u a better tractor if the pto and hydraulics are to be used. This and 1.00 might still buy a soft drink.

Tires and Wheels
IP: 67.32.51.81
Posted on November 26, 2002 at 04:51:57 PM by Alan Jones

I need to see about getting a new front wheel for my 88 RC. Do you have any in stock. Also I want some steel rear wheels to replace the stock cast ones. Please advise on what you have and how much.

Re(1): Tires and Wheels
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 05:46:02 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the front wheel. The rear wheels I have are pressed steel. One set is for 14.9x38, the other set is for 16.9x34. If either of these is what you want, email me. Larry

1750 steering
IP: 12.10.16.194
Posted on November 26, 2002 at 04:18:30 PM by Kyle

I am working on a 1969 1750, I'm having trouble with the steering.To keep the tractor going straight you must slowly turn the wheel to the left. Plus it steers very hard. Could this be the unit under the steering wheel? How do I fix this?

Re(1): 1750 steering
IP: 209.163.7.83
Posted on November 26, 2002 at 09:27:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The steering hard makes me wonder if you have a problem in the steering cylinder on the front. Most of the time it is the hydra motor under the steering wheel. If it is in the hydra motor, I have not had success in repairing them. It is best to replace them with one from a salvage yard. Larry

Re(2): 1750 steering
IP: 206.154.186.169
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 10:43:45 AM by Kyle

Would anyone be able to help me locate a hydra motor for the steering on this 1750?

Re(3): 1750 steering
IP: 68.155.5.102
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 09:32:21 PM by George Steadman

I have one that came off of a 1750 that we converted to become a 2255 pull tractor. Let me know if you are interested, also have a tub for a 2255 if someone needs such an animal.

!950 Hydraulic drive countershaft
IP: 63.185.48.102
Posted on November 26, 2002 at 02:47:07 PM by Steve

Have a chance to buy a 1950 GM. The only thing I can find wrong is the front bearing on the countershaft that drives the hydraulic pump siezed up and egg shaped the hole in the housing. Ever fixed a problem like this? If so, can it be fixed without emptying the case? Thanks!

Re(1): !950 Hydraulic drive countershaft
IP: 209.163.7.83
Posted on November 26, 2002 at 09:23:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to take the housing to a machine shop and have it machined out and put a sleeve in it. Larry

1850 hydraulics
IP: 63.121.82.63
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:14:03 PM by Michael (La)

I'm working on a 1965 Oliver 1850 LP. The tractor has no hydraulics. The previous owner said he lost all hydraulics while operating the tractor. I removed the oil from the two most forward drain plugs; one has a screen. Water was in the oil. Where is the hydraulic pump located? Is 303062449 the correct part number? What weight oil do the hydraulics use? Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:58:46 PM by Larry Harsin

The screen you removed must have been on the bottom of the transmission housing. That oil is not hydraulic, it is transmission grease, which is 80-90. It sounds like this should be changed no matter what. There are 2 other plugs to drain transmission grease from this tractor. The hydraulic system uses 10 wt. hydraulic oil or even engine oil. It sounds like the hydraulic pump is not turning or something is broken. The hydraulic pump is up above the transmission on the back of the tractor and it has it's own reservoir that holds approx. 5 gal. The Operator's seat is mounted above the hydraulic system. When the Operator sits on the tractor, the hydraulic pump is between the Operator's feet. I recommend that you get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual from Mary Ann at Charles City: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

parts for '55 oliver
IP: 64.156.54.132
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 12:17:46 AM by aaron

i was curious about locasting parts for a '55 oliver

Re(1): parts for '55 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:50:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have what you need. Larry

RE: hub switch
IP: 63.160.15.129
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 11:53:22 AM by Wade (PA)

Larry, will regular 6 bolt hubs (like on a 66' narrow front) fit onto the spindle on a 77/88 narrow front?... I'd like to lighten up the front for pull and put small wheels on.

Re(1): RE: hub switch
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:49:04 PM by Larry Harsin

66 hubs will not fit a 77. But what the guys around here are doing is taking the whole steering column assembly (wheels and all) off of a 66 and putting it in a 77 or an 88. This makes the front end of the tractor much lighter. Larry

oc-3 steering clutch
IP: 216.99.65.10
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 10:32:45 AM by george maerkle

my oc-3 is in need of some attention to the steering clutches. if i am looking at it correctly you can adjust them externally. my adjusters are taken up quite a bit to the point of the tensioning spring is almost completly collapsed.how hard is it to change these and were could i buy a kit / parts to fix this.

Re(1): oc-3 steering clutch
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:45:12 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman. He is the crawler expert. His phone is: 717-738-2573 Email is zoc@att.net.
Larry

550 grill
IP: 209.242.235.204
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 09:07:05 PM by Mark

Larry,

Another question,

The front grill on this 550 tractor is
Fiberglass - is this aftermarket?

Thanks....
Mark

Re(1): 550 grill
IP: 209.163.7.46
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 07:15:48 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That is the way it was built. Larry

550 Oliver
IP: 209.242.235.204
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 08:56:42 PM by Mark

Larry,

I grew up an Allis boy, and now am about to buy a 1974 Oliver 550. From reading many of your archives, you sure seem to be the expert on Oliver and just the guy to convert me.

Did Oliver make a standard drawbar for the 550? The tractor that I am looking at has only a 'spreader bar' between the lower arms of the 3 point as the
drawbar. If Oliver did not make one, is there a source aftermarket?

Clutch, gears, PTO, power steering and engine seem OK, is there anything that a person should look out for on a 550 that fails often???

Thanks. Mark

Re(1): 550 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.46
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 07:14:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Oliver made a standard drawbar as an option. To get one, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Tim Smith at 330-824-9792. It's best to call him in the evenings as he has a day job. As far as what to watch out for, check to make sure everything operates properly and check the operation of the PTO clutch. Larry

Re(2): 550 Oliver
IP: 161.49.21.100
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 10:31:15 AM by mark

Thanks for the advise Larry. I will double check the PTO clutch. Should I be sure to check the PTO in a loaded/unloaded condition?

Mark

Re(3): 550 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 08:42:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Check to see that it snaps over properly to engage it. This is an over-center clutch. If it does not have snap, it has probably been used so much that it has burned itself up. If so, this means the tractor will have to be split and new clutch discs installed. Larry

earliest 1000?
IP: 152.163.189.168
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 07:21:57 PM by Don

Just out of curiosity, what was the smallest hp. Oliver offered with 1000 rpm pto? What was the earliest?
Thanks
Don

Re(1): earliest 1000?
IP: 209.163.7.46
Posted on November 25, 2002 at 07:07:48 AM by Larry Harsin

The earliest Oliver offered with 1000 rpm PTO that I'm aware of, was the 660 and 770. The earliest Oliver offered 540 rpm on the PTO. Larry

770 Steering
IP: 67.2.251.158
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 03:36:34 PM by John

My 770 steering "slips". I am assuming the spines on the upper shaft are bad. I have the gas tank off. I don't have a shop manual yet, and was wondering the procedure to disassemble the power steering unit to repair.

Re(1): 770 Steering
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 06:21:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm assuming that you have the hydrastatic steering that is on the late tractors. You may have to take the whole dash out of the tractor and then slip that thing down out of the dash. I'm not sure without seeing it. When you get it apart, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He will have the parts to fix it. 800-320-6224. Larry

770 pistons
IP: 216.28.208.14
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 02:53:53 PM by Larry Hardin

Tore my 770 down to check valves. It smokes alot especially after it sat for a while. Well I got it apart and it looks like the valves are the problem. I can move them side to side in the head and real corroded. But I pulled the pan to replace the gasket and was looking at the pistons.They have a high dome on them and a part number of AP-81 on the inside of them. They measure about 3.560 bore. What are theese? there is hardly any noticable ridge on top the sleeve. I believe they are not very old, making me think the rings should be OK. I bought this at an auction 2 years ago and have used it regulalry on a brush hog. other than the smoke it seems to have good power. thanks for the help

Re(1): 770 pistons
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 06:15:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It's probably and M & W type installation. Your observations make sense to me. If your valve guide clearance is too great, that could cause smoking. So I would recommend getting the head redone and getting it back to specs. Larry

Clutch Ajustment
IP: 205.188.208.40
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 11:20:00 AM by C. Neumann

Hi Larry. I am restoring a 53 Oliver 77. I replaced clutch and throw-out bearing but not pressure plate. The adjusting rod has to be screwed all the way out before the clutch will release. Do I need to replace the pressure plate or is there some other problem.

Re(1): Clutch Ajustment
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 06:11:07 PM by Larry Harsin

You should have adjusted the fingers on the pressure plate out a little ways before you put the bell housing on. If the clutch does not release properly, you will have to remove the bell housing and adjust those fingers out. If the clutch works, I'd leave it alone.

oliver crawlers and ixb engines
IP: 216.77.200.107
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 09:43:08 AM by Glen

One of my ixb hercules engines has babbits or shell connecting bearing. If it is babbits is there a easily solution to go to shell type? Also looking for a very nice OC-3-42 or OC-4-42 crawler or dozer, where the best place to look or advertise? Great site Sir, Thanks very much,Glen

Re(1): oliver crawlers and ixb engines
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 06:07:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman. He is the Cletrac Expert. Ph: 717-738-2573 or zoc@att.net. I would say the best place to advertise would be in the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' magazine. There are over 6000 members who are all Oliver Collectors. Contact Sherry at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. I believe the ad is approx. 25 cents a word. Larry

disappearing hytran fluid
IP: 216.124.98.120
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 11:02:24 PM by brent

i have a '74 1855D with loader with approx. 3500 hrs on it. over the last year i've noticed that i have to keep adding hydralic fluid to keep the pump quiet and keep everything working. the first problem is that i cant figure out were all the fluid is going. the second problem arose when i was running a grain auger off the pto. i heard alot of "chatter" and then ALOT of white smoke out of the vent/fill hole for the rear. any ideas, approx cost to fix. pto still engages and spins.

Re(1): disappearing hytran fluid
IP: 209.163.7.82
Posted on November 24, 2002 at 06:45:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I imagine you are losing hydraulic fluid into the transmission rear end through the hydraulic clutch on the PTO. The PTO unit will have to be removed from the tractor and the clutch will have to be resealed. The smoke coming out of the fill hole for the hydraulic sounds like bad news. The pump itself may be damaged. However, if it is still working, I wouldn't go looking for too much trouble. My first main objective would be to get the loss of fluid stopped and go from there. I would guess that to hire someone to reseal and repair that PTO unit would cost $300 - $400. This is strictly a guess. Larry

880/770
IP: 137.36.251.61
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 04:38:15 PM by Jason

Larry could you tell what the value (ball park ) for a 880 or 770 backhoe/loader with open cab that looks to be all orginal might be worth?

Re(1): 880/770
IP: 209.163.7.72
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 06:07:43 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is in good, usable condition, I would give it a range from $5000 to $8000. Larry

Thanks
IP: 68.117.196.93
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 04:26:15 AM by John Cobb

Thanks for the info on my 1550 PTO. I completely rebuilt it (costly) but it should last for years. The info about lining the shaft correctly was most helpful. Just wanted to tell you "THANKS" for all the help you've given me. HAPPY THANKSGIVING to you and your loved ones. John

Re(1): Thanks
IP: 209.163.7.38
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 06:08:12 AM by Larry Harsin

You are very welcome! We enjoy hearing from all you guys and hope we are of help. Larry & Sandy

77 propane starting
IP: 63.159.197.52
Posted on November 22, 2002 at 09:31:27 PM by Tom Rowe-Drake

Hi Larry, Sorry we didn't get a chance to see you at Lyle's auction. I now have his 1950 77 field conversion propane tractor. I've been starting it by opening the rear valve on the tank but I'm not fully aware of the correct procedure. My 77 service manual only covers the factory starting/service/repair but this field conversion is different. Also , do you know where I can get an opperating manual for this field conv. 77 R/C tractor? Thanks Tom.

Re(1): 77 propane starting
IP: 209.163.7.38
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 06:05:38 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I do not know where you can get a manual. Did you talk to Lyle? He might know. Was the field conversion made by Oliver? If so, contact Sherry Schaefer or Ollie Shaefer her Dad. Sherry is: sherry@oliverinformation.com. Ollie was an Oliver Dealer. Contact him at: olliesch@papadocs.com. A man who has a tractor just like this is a Dealer at Corning IA: Terry Lister 641-322-4912. He may be able to help you also. We are sorry we didn't see you at Lyle's Sale. We were right there the whole time. That was such a nice day. Larry

Re(2): 77 propane starting
IP: 63.159.193.127
Posted on November 23, 2002 at 08:06:56 PM by Tom

Larry, So sorry to not have seen you there. Yes it was the last of their good weather, it turned cold on Sunday when we flew out. Lyle did not know which valve was liquid or vapor. I talked to Oliver too but before the auction. I'll call him and Terry , thanks for the help, have a good Oliver winter, best reguards Tom & Helen

550
IP: 63.114.86.223
Posted on November 21, 2002 at 05:43:37 PM by Bob

Larry,wanna sell that 550?what a dumb question!!!!!!!!

Re(1): 550
IP: 209.163.7.81
Posted on November 21, 2002 at 10:14:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Not yet, Bob! :-) Look at the picture at the top of the page and on our mainpage. Larry

1365
IP: 12.2.48.146
Posted on November 21, 2002 at 09:14:04 AM by Jason

Hi Larry,

Do you know anything mechanically about the 1365?

Re(1): 1365
IP: 209.163.7.81
Posted on November 21, 2002 at 10:11:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I know it was built in Italy by Fiat. I havn't worked on any of them. There is a fellow in Ontario Canada who has parts etc. His website is: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html His email is: oldtractor@renc.igs.net.
Larry

Re(2): 1365
IP: 68.155.5.102
Posted on November 27, 2002 at 09:42:14 PM by George Steadman

We have one that is fwd with a 1514 loader, have had to do a few things (clutch, front seals and bearings rebuilt fwd box new brakes) bought the tractor new in 72 plenty of hard labor behind and hopefully ahead of the ol boy.

RE: sheet metal
IP: 63.160.15.129
Posted on November 20, 2002 at 06:34:21 AM by Wade (PA)

We just acquired a 51' 77 gas w/ a TSC widefront. It has sat a few years and needs some sheet metal and other parts that have rusted up. I know of a Super 88 diesel that I can have for parts if I want. How simular are these 2 tractors?... how different is the sheet metal (besides curtains), dash and throttle controls, narrow front end, air cleaner, etc?... I'm sure I'll have more questions as I start restoring it...

Re(1): RE: sheet metal
IP: 209.163.7.13
Posted on November 20, 2002 at 08:49:45 PM by Larry Harsin

The front ends will interchange, but none of the sheet metal will interchange. The throttle controls and some of that stuff might work. The dash is different. The narrow front will interchange. Air Cleaner will not. The hydraulic will interchange. Some of the PTO parts will interchange as will the drawbar. Larry

Prices
IP: 198.26.118.37
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 08:58:09 PM by Bernard Greene

Larry, I also found a Oliver 1600 with factory butane and with a single wheel in front, what would be a good price for this clean running tractor--Bernie

Re(1): Prices
IP: 209.163.7.54
Posted on November 20, 2002 at 06:04:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd say in the $4000 to $5000 range. A lot depends on condition and if all the parts are there. Larry

Prices
IP: 198.26.118.36
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 08:53:09 PM by Bernard Greene

Larry,what would be a good price for a Oliver 550 with front end loader and rear blade all original equipment which has 2200 hours on the engine, runs good with original gas motor--Bernie

Re(1): Prices
IP: 209.163.7.54
Posted on November 20, 2002 at 06:02:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say if you could buy it for $4500 it is a bargin. Larry

1750 Steering
IP: 207.177.56.81
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 06:48:08 PM by Luverne S.

I bought a 1750 diesel at an auction.When I got it home it didn't have any steering or hydraulics.I pulled out live PTO shaft and it didn't have any splines.I put in a NEW live PTO shaft but I didn't replace the PTO drive hub.I am wondering how long it will last?

Re(1): 1750 Steering
IP: 209.163.7.40
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 07:33:51 PM by Larry Harsin

It would be my guess that it probably won't last very long. Larry

oil filter housing
IP: 207.177.56.81
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 06:00:03 PM by Aug

Will a spin on oil filter housing off of a 1650 gas work on a 1650 diesel with sock filter.Wondering if oil pressure will be affected?

Re(1): oil filter housing
IP: 209.163.7.40
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 07:32:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I know it has been done, but I havn't done it. I know of no reason why it wouldn't work. Larry

Re(2): oil filter housing
IP: 67.0.84.127
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 08:28:20 PM by Dean Barker

The 2-70 diesel uses a spin-on oil filter, so I ordered a filter base and installed it on my 1655 diesel. I have run it this way for 2 1\2 years and 200-300 hours. I can't see any difference in oil pressure.

Oliver 60/70/77/88
IP: 66.156.105.95
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 01:59:36 PM by Jay Reeder

Hi.

I'm looking for a restored Oliver 60, 70, 77, or 88 type tractor. I understand you have one or a few of these for sale. Could your forward asking price for any models you have for sale, and also I was wondering if you knew of a good place to find one of these for sale.

BTW, I'm located in GA but travel up through Indiana regularly.

Best Regards, Jay

Re(1): Oliver 60/70/77/88
IP: 209.163.7.40
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 07:30:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Did you check out our Tractors for Sale page on our website? I have several tractors that aren't restored yet. 2 60's and some 77's and also a nice 88 that I have just gotten. I'm working on some tractors that have already been sold, but if you are interested in one of these others, email me and we can send some pictures and I will work on them next. Larry

88 or 99
IP: 137.36.251.61
Posted on November 18, 2002 at 06:08:33 PM by russ

Great page larry,
i am from the not so wonderfull state of NJ and have been looking for an oliver super 88 or 99 to restore for sometime now my problem is i can't find with in a decent drive form home is place in NY or PA where i might be able to find somthing? Any help would be great thanks

Re(1): 88 or 99
IP: 209.163.7.80
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 06:34:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Sherry Schaefer and run a Want Ad in the Hart-Parr Oliver Collector magazine. sherry@oliverinformation.com. The ad is approx. 25 cents a word. In the last magazine, there is an ad from a fellow in North Carolina who has a S88. 828-682-4442 weekends or 828-284-0145 weekdays. Hope this helps. Larry

Tractor Restore Novice
IP: 216.64.132.68
Posted on November 17, 2002 at 01:08:01 AM by Gary

Larry,
I've been checking out your web site for some time now and have been motivated to restore a recently acquired Oliver 880. My problem is I'm a novice at restore. I mean I can do basic maintenance and such. The engine runs great as it was rebuilt 5 years ago. I would hate to see this old tractor just rust away. My question is where is a good place to start? Are there any good books out there? Thank you Gary

Re(1): Tractor Restore Novice
IP: 209.163.7.96
Posted on November 17, 2002 at 06:04:01 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. There are lots of books & videos. There is a catalog called "Looking Back". They have a website: www.asae.org/pubs/history2000/toc.html Or their phone is: 800-695-2723. There are other sources also, but this will give you a start. You should be a member of the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. Your membership brings you a great magazine with lots of articles, stories and ads from over 5000 members. To join, contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. Larry

Re(2): Tractor Restore Novice
IP: 209.163.7.96
Posted on November 17, 2002 at 06:15:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Go to: www.hartparroliver.org. This website is full of great information. Larry

1755 Diesel ?s
IP: 64.12.96.13
Posted on November 15, 2002 at 06:13:18 PM by Rocky Horn

I have a 1755 and I want to build a 3 point log splitter for it. The detent valves I have seen are either for a closed center tractor or a not closed center tractor. I assume it is a closed center but I would like to know for sure? Also I dont remember the year we got it but I think it was the last year for oliver before White took over Seems like around 1970 is that close?
Thank you,
Rocky Horn

Re(1): 1755 Diesel ?s
IP: 209.163.7.96
Posted on November 17, 2002 at 05:48:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, your 1755 is a closed center system. The 1755's were built from 1970 thru 1974 or so. Send us the serial number and we can tell you the year. Larry

Re(1): 1755 Diesel ?s
IP: 67.0.84.127
Posted on November 19, 2002 at 08:33:31 PM by Dean Barker

Oliver 1755's all had closed center systems. It would have the large hydraulic pump outside the transmission case under the left platform.

external pto shaft 1850
IP: 12.13.248.46
Posted on November 15, 2002 at 11:28:45 AM by rolland meffert

Larry,I have a 1967 1850 diesel. while using the pto,I broke the external shaft. I purchased a new shaft. After I remove the snap ring from the outside, how hard is it to extract the shaft?

Re(1): external pto shaft 1850
IP: 209.163.7.36
Posted on November 15, 2002 at 09:53:34 PM by Larry Harsin

It's not hard if you can get hold of it. You may have to weld a bolt onto the broken shaft to pull it out of there. Put the ground cable on the bolt and hold the bolt up to the shaft when you weld it to prevent current from going through the bearing. Larry

1600 Overhaul
IP: 216.74.206.75
Posted on November 14, 2002 at 04:33:51 PM by Roger Mothersbaugh

Larry, Where is the best place to get a engine overhaul kit for a 1600D? Thanks, Roger

Re(1): 1600 Overhaul
IP: 209.163.7.31
Posted on November 14, 2002 at 09:49:19 PM by Larry Harsin

The first place I would try would be TTP at: 800-825-7711. Larry

77 Diesel
IP: 204.58.233.6
Posted on November 13, 2002 at 10:56:51 AM by Eric

Larry, I have a 77 diesel that I am going to restore. The problem is that the fuel pump side of the engine is one big oily mess. Some of the injectors leak, the fittings leak, and fuel drips out of the end of the pump. Could you give me some indication of where to start and what I may need to replace.
Thanks much.

Re(1): 77 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.93
Posted on November 13, 2002 at 06:34:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Mainly it is just tightening fittings that are dripping. If you have oil leaks on the pump, you may have to take the pump off and repaired at a diesel repair shop. Larry

1650 Diesel
IP: 206.10.38.128
Posted on November 13, 2002 at 08:43:33 AM by Bill S.

I have a chance to aquire a 1650 Diesel with a locked engine. Would the wide front and power steering bolt on a '63 770 with a narrow front and no power steering?

Re(1): 1650 Diesel
IP: 209.163.7.93
Posted on November 13, 2002 at 06:32:18 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They won't fit. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Diesel
IP: 12.24.196.166
Posted on November 13, 2002 at 08:15:47 PM by Bill S.

Thanks for the reply.

Radiator
IP: 216.74.205.136
Posted on November 11, 2002 at 05:16:23 PM by RogerM

Need a radiator for a 1600D.

Re(1): Radiator
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 07:06:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I think I have one. I need to know the size of the inlet and outlet pipes and email them to me at cobalt@rconnect.com. Larry

pto
IP: 68.117.194.170
Posted on November 11, 2002 at 03:48:19 AM by john cobb

I am in the process of replacing all bearings, seals, gears and gaskets in the pto of my 1550. I found the gear on the long shaft to the clutch chewed up upon removal (believe this is where the noise was coming from). The bottom shaft has been removed, my question is, can the tractor be driven 15 feet without damage (all transmission fluid has been drained)? I need the bottom resovoir that holds the pint of fluid, mine is cracked, do you have one? Thanks for all your gracious help. John

Re(1): pto
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 07:03:59 AM by Larry Harsin

If you start it up just to move it, it will probably be o.k. Don't run it any more than that. Otherwise you might freeze up a bearing. Call Tom at O'Brien for the bottom reservoir 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(1): pto
IP: 68.117.195.30
Posted on November 14, 2002 at 03:40:00 AM by john cobb

Thanks, I got Ryan at O'brien and he is sending the part. Thank you.

I found a full set of Oliver Pistons & Sleeves in my dad's shop (left from my gramps) I am sell them on ebay for him, and a potential customer wants to know if they will fit his 1936 rowcrop 70. I haven't any idea. The part number of the parts I have is 164 522-AS. I did find a note insde the box probably left by my grandpa. It says "770 gas diesel 66& 77 Super 55 - 66 - 77 - 550 3-1/2" Bore Waukesha"

Re(1): Pistons & Sleeves
IP: 208.10.124.195
Posted on November 11, 2002 at 11:44:09 AM by Larry from Maryland

They will NOT fit an oliver 70.The 70's used a contitential engine.You have a standard set of parts that fit the tractors listed and should be able to find a buyer for them.

Re(2): Pistons & Sleeves
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 06:59:39 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, Larry is right. Your Grandfather's note tells you what tractors that will fit. Larry

770 Stuck Engine
IP: 205.188.208.40
Posted on November 10, 2002 at 10:17:10 PM by Jiminy Cricket

Bought farm and inherited a 770 gasoline tractor which sat outside along fenceline uncovered for several years. Engine stuck, no surprise here. Pulley, and fly wheel will not turn. Looked through your archives, tried all the "fluids on the top of the cylinders" suggested. Latest attempt to free it up was yesterday. I jacked up the right side, put it in 5th gear, filled the cylinders with diesel, started rocking the elevated tire back and forth. Took a break (several hours), and resumed. Shortly after starting the rocking motion this second time, the tire turned. In changing from 5th to 4th, to 3rd, etc., it is progressivly harder to turn, BUT does turn. The problem is that the pulley and fly wheel still do not turn. Did I break something by turning the elevated wheel? Or is there something I'm missing? I'm not a mechanic, but I do know some of the basics. At this point I feel pretty lost.

Re(1): 770 Stuck Engine
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 06:57:03 AM by Larry Harsin

If the engine is still not turning, it is probably slipping in the clutch. If that were my tractor, I would remove the cylinder head and the oil pan. This will help you to determine which cylinders are stuck the worst. Unhook the rod or rods from the crank shaft and if the crank shaft frees up, move it on down from the stuck rod assembly and try tapping individual pistons down one at a time to get them moving. There's a very good chance that you may have to overhaul this engine. Larry

70 carb kit
IP: 216.248.73.57
Posted on November 9, 2002 at 07:47:30 PM by John Szymanowski

I bought a '39 Row Crop 70 and both the sediment bowl and carb leak fuel all over the place. I was just wondering about a good place to find a gasket for the bowl and a rebuild kit for the carb.

Re(1): 70 carb kit
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 06:50:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(1): 70 carb kit
IP: 216.248.73.16
Posted on November 14, 2002 at 09:01:52 AM by John Szymanowski

Thank you for the reply. I did not think they would have it, but I called my local NAPA and they had the carb kit,points,cap,condensor,rotor and sediment bowl gasket. They even had them in stock! Problem solved, hopefully.

Oliver 1850
IP: 35.11.129.149
Posted on November 9, 2002 at 05:05:19 PM by Andrew

Hi, I am currently bidding on an Oliver 1850 on ebay that the guy says has hydraulic fluid or diesel fuel in the oil. He doesn't want to fix it so he put the tractor up for auction. What do you think this tractor is worth in good condition and what are the specs for it, like the trans, hp, and what they had in the cab. Thank you

P.S. Is a tractor like this worth fixing?

Re(1): Oliver 1850
IP: 35.11.129.149
Posted on November 9, 2002 at 05:08:45 PM by Andrew

I forgot to mention that this tractor has the Perkins diesel that came out of a Massey Ferguson 510 combine.

Re(1): Oliver 1850
IP: 209.163.7.66
Posted on November 12, 2002 at 06:48:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Is it worth fixing? It's hard to tell. I wouldn't give over $1750 for it. After fixing it up it might be worth $5000. This tractor had 92 hp when it was new. It will weigh approx. 9000 lbs. Most of them were sold with 5 bottom semi-mount plows. It sounds like it has been cobbled before as they have put a combine motor in it and now it has problems again. I wouldn't give very much for it. Larry

440 BRAKES
IP: 12.91.107.171
Posted on November 9, 2002 at 02:05:46 PM by Gene M.

I have a 440 that I am restoring and am in need of brake assistence. I found out that the left brake shoe/band is broken and needs to be replaced. After removing the access covers, springs and bolts the broken lining just fell out. The problem is I can't get the intact lining out-(not enough clearance)How do you get the linings out in one piece and put new ones back in? Help!!

Re(1): 440 BRAKES
IP: 209.163.7.19
Posted on November 11, 2002 at 08:03:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Ollie Schaefer at olliesch@papadocs.com. He will have parts and be able to tell you how to fix these. Larry

oliver OC 3 crawler 1952
IP: 64.154.189.27
Posted on November 8, 2002 at 11:54:36 PM by Jhon Carlstad

Im misssing the rear axle bearing holder and bearing for the little crawler I'm toying with. any help would be appreciated

Jhon C

Re(1): oliver OC 3 crawler 1952
IP: 209.163.7.19
Posted on November 11, 2002 at 08:01:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman at zoc@att.net. He is the Crawler Expert. Larry

1550 Oliver
IP: 216.73.206.85
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 08:47:09 PM by Larry Hoyes

Purchased a bush hog loader with independent controls. How do I hook it up to the hydraulics on the tractor? Is there a place to hook up without going through the tractor controls?

Re(1): 1550 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.89
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 11:16:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can hook up without going through the tractor controls. On the area close to where you pour the oil into the hydraulic system, on the top casting, there is a 1/2 pipe plug that takes a square drive that a 3/8in socket would fit. The pipe plug you want to remove first is the one that is pointed forward. It will be stuck in there tight. You may have to warm the area around this a little with your torch, don't break the tool off in there. After heating, tap the casting around the plug with a ball peen hammer and then try it. Some patience is required here. After you have removed that 1/2 in pipe plug, inside this passage there's an area that is threaded to accept a 3/8 pipe plug. It will have to be a socket type plug that you can insert into the passage and screw the plug in there. Now, a short distance behind where this plug sits in this housing, there is another 1/2 in pipe plug like the first one you removed. This points out toward the fender. This will have to be removed also. Now, oil will come out where the first plug was taken out and go to the inlet port of your external valve and then the oil from the exhaust port of your external valve will go back into where you took out the 2nd. plug. Also, you must use an open center valve. In other words, if you can't blow through this valve from inlet to outlet port, it is not an open center valve. This should make it work.

1650 carb repair & manual
IP: 206.72.33.253
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 05:08:01 PM by Kevin Kuhlman

I recently purchased a 1650 gas Oliver, It appears to be in real good shape, I do feel that it needs a carb rebuild as it seems to run real rich at higher RPM, also appeared to have gas in the oil when I changed it.Where to find a rebuild kit, Does the job require any special tools? Also have an I&T manual that doesn't have carb rebuild data, adjustment instructions,other owner info. Could you reccomend a good manual?

Re(1): 1650 carb repair & manual
IP: 209.163.7.89
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 10:59:37 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a rebuild kit from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. But there is one thing I want you to check first. See if you can lean the mixture on the carb load needle with the engine running wide open. You should be able to turn that needle in with your fingers until the engine starves. If the engine does not starve, there is a good chance that the needle is not screwing down into the seat in the carb. In other words, the needle is off to one side of the seat in the carb. Simply unscrew the needle and pull it out of the carb. Then try reinstalling it carefully, so that it will be in the correct position to adjust the mixture. After you do this, turn it in as far as you can with your fingers, then back it out about 2 turns. Then start the engine and see if you can starve the engine at wide open throttle. I have encountered this problem many times on Oliver 1650's. If this keeps it from running so rich, you have solved your problem. If not, you will probably have to rebuild your carb. This job does not require any special tools. I would reccommend that you get an Oliver 1650 Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. You can also ask her about a Service Manual if you think you need one. Larry

550
IP: 68.100.241.117
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 02:05:48 PM by Marvin Ogburn

Larry,

I want to buy a small tractor for my vegetable and fruit farm. The primary uses are front- end loader (light materials), 2 bottom plow, bush hog, posthole digger, and roto-tiller. I cannot spend a lot of money. I have thought about the 8N Ford, and TO-35 Ferguson but think the Oliver 550 is the best option. It is a strong tractor and only weighs 3000 pounds. What is your experience with the 550? What are the major issues with the 550 that I should look for? What is a reasonable price for one in good condition from the mid 60^(1)s? Do all of the 550 come with power steering or is that an option? Do you know where I can find the specifications? I am looking for speed in first gear, size and speed of PTO, and whether it has Type I 3-point hitch?

Thank you very much!

Marvin Ogburn

Re(1): 550
IP: 140.139.35.250
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 03:05:55 PM by RRBlock

Marvin, I've been on the same 550 since I was 7 - 38 yrs - so I'm a bit partial to it. I bought, used and sold a 1510 loader - I didn't like it for loader work (no power steering) and felt I lost the handling ability that makes it such a great little tractor. If you need a loader, find a 550 with power steering and be prepared to run as much weight as you can on the back. I use a 6' tiller, the 550 is great for that with it's close slow gears. A true creeper gear would be even better. The independent PTO, Cat.1 3PH and hyds are excellent and way ahead of other utility tractors made during the same time frame (my opinion!). For 10 years building fence commercially, it was my choice for running a Danuser post hole digger. I found that a little MF compact would fit on the trailer with my skid loader and post driver so I use that now instead. If remote outlets are important, try to find a 550 that already has the valve - I hear they are expensive when you find them. No problem with a 2 btm plow - I run out of traction long before power. She is my "handy tractor" and is used to rake,tedd and pull wagons in from 110 ac. of hay, till the garden and mix compost, mows the yard with a 3PH finish deck, pushes snow and a bunch of other little jobs. It is treated well and has served me well - I'd hate to be without it. Some of these other guys can tell you what to look for and look out for in a used one.

Re(1): 550
IP: 216.74.205.80
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 05:13:39 PM by Roger Mothersbaugh

The guy who had the previous post is 100% correct. Can't add anything technically over what he has said. I started driving my fathers Super 55 when I was twelve years old. The 55 was made in 1955 the same year that I was born. My mom still has the tractor and for tractors made in the 50's and 60's of comparable size there are none better. The later model 550's with power steering are much preferred if you are using a front end loader.

Re(2): 550
IP: 209.163.7.89
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 10:48:09 PM by Larry Harsin

After reading these other posts, I have nothing to add about these excellent little tractors. As far as price is concerned, they'll range from $2500 to $6000 according to condition and how they are equipped, etc. I certainly would reccommend the latest style with the power steering as long as you are getting one. This will have the 2 small steering cylinders - one on each side. Larry

Re(1): 550
IP: 68.117.194.170
Posted on November 6, 2002 at 04:05:35 AM by john cobb

I can't speak for the 550 (I have a 1550) but I can tell you that I sold my 8n and bought the 1550, best thing I ever did. The 8n has very little power and their was something always breaking. Love my 1550.

1550 pto
IP: 68.117.194.170
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 04:09:38 AM by john cobb

I replaced the clutch plates in pto, that fixed the problem of disengaging as you suggested, thanks. Now it makes a heck of a noise when engaged. I have all new bearings, gaskets for the pto. Is their anything I should know about pulling the shaft to replace the bearings? Thanks for your great assistance. john

Re(1): 1550 pto
IP: 209.163.7.45
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 05:58:23 AM by Larry Harsin

There might be some foreign material in the gear case of the gears on the PTO. Did you check the bearings on the PTO output shaft? Also, is there transmission grease in that housing? That needs to have about a pint of grease in it. I can't think of anything to watch when you pull the shaft. If you need to remove the PTO gear housing from the tractor to do any repair, you'll have to be careful to realign that housing properly when reinstalling, so that the front bearing on the PTO shaft will slide through that hole. I have seen lots of those ruined that way. Larry

Re(2): 1550 pto
IP: 68.117.194.170
Posted on November 6, 2002 at 03:56:32 AM by john cobb

Thanks for the info, I sure don't won't to ruin anything. Thanks
PS, is the gear grease 80-90 wt?

Re(3): 1550 pto
IP: 209.163.7.8
Posted on November 7, 2002 at 07:05:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is 80-90 wt. Larry

Re(4): 1550 pto
IP: 68.117.194.170
Posted on November 8, 2002 at 03:38:09 AM by john cobb

Thank you, have a great day and a better tomorrow. John

Diesel fuel system
IP: 67.32.51.81
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 04:49:08 PM by Alan Jones

I just bought a 88 rowcrop diesil. The tractor starts and runs great but is plagued with fuel leaks at the fuel filters, fuel pump and seems to be leaking from two of the injectors. Is this an easy fix or is it going to be an indepth repair. Any tips you could give me on changing these filters and repairing the injector will be greatly appreciated. Also how do you use the glow plugs on this tractor.
Thank you,
Alan

Re(1): Diesel fuel system
IP: 209.163.7.45
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 05:51:53 AM by Larry Harsin

The leaks are mainly loose fittings to be tightened up or replacing gaskets or rubber washers on the lines. On the injector side with the return lines, those are compression fittings and if tightening them won't help, then the fittings will have to be replaced. About the glow plugs, that engine is equipped with a preheater coil that sits in a housing above the intake manifold. If it is working, it should help. The preheater is activated by a starter type button on the dash. You should get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(2): Diesel fuel system
IP: 67.32.51.81
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 10:56:27 AM by Alan Jones

Thank you for your reply. where would you recommend finding the compression fittings that you are speaking of. Is this something any tractor dealer might have.

Re(3): Diesel fuel system
IP: 209.163.7.89
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 10:39:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will have them. Larry

770 Carburetor
IP: 208.50.83.17
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 09:52:52 AM by Justin

Larry,
Thanks for the help with the block heater and clutch problem - Tom is sending me parts. I have another question regarding carburetor adjustments. I am having trouble getting the tractor to run well with good power without constantly adjusting the choke. It idles and runs OK once warmed up with the choke off, but has problems when running under a load. Example: I start the tractor with choke pulled half to full out, increase throttle to about 1/2, then push choke in and let tractor warm up for a few minutes. Move it into barn and start and stop it to load stalls into the manure spreader. When I go to spread and need power, I need to have the choke half out. It seems to me the carb is not getting enough fuel, and I need to restrict air for the proper mix. I have played with the "L" shaped screw at the bottom of the carb, but can't seem to get it right. How do I properly tune this carburetor, and should I need to re-adjust for cold temperatures?

Re(1): 770 Carburetor
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 01:14:34 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to readjust for cold temps. But on that 770 a lot of them have a limiting jet that lets down into the cavity where your adjustable load nozzle is. I have in some instances, removed that jet completely because it would not let enough fuel down into that chamber. See if this helps. Larry

Re(2): 770 Carburetor
IP: 208.50.83.17
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 01:59:54 PM by Justin

Is the "L" shaped screw at the bottom of the bowl the adjustable load nozzle? Do I screw in or out for heavier loading? How do I get to the limiting jet? I am assuming that the screw at the top is for lean/rich adjustment.

Thanks Again.

Re(3): 770 Carburetor
IP: 209.163.7.45
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 06:06:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is. Screw it out. Out gives more fuel In decreases it. To get to the limiting jet, you have to split the carburator. Take the bowl off the top - there are 4 screws that hold the 2 halves together. When you look in there, there might be some foreign material in there. If that is the case, blow it out of there and reassemble the carburator. Then try it. If however, there is no foreign material in there, remove the jet and put the carburator together and try it that way. The screw at the top is for the idle mixture adjustment on the idle speed (air adjustment). You need an Operator's Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. There is a charge of approx. $25. Larry

Oliver 1550
IP: 207.89.240.57
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 09:08:33 AM by Gordon Archer

My father recently died leaving me an Oliver 1550, model #455-21035, s/n 206681504. Can snyone tell me the year and HP of this tractor?

Re(1): Oliver 1550
IP: 209.163.7.97
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 01:10:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1550 was built in 1968. It has 53 hp. Larry

1960 Oliver 880
IP: 216.64.132.95
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 09:36:11 PM by Gary Kasparek

Larry, I recently acquired a 1960 Oliver 880 diesel and am hoping to find a front end loader to help with snow removal. I was wondering what is a good block heater that works well on this Oliver. It runs great and I didn't want to take any chances on freezing this winter. Thanks Gary

Re(1): 1960 Oliver 880
IP: 209.163.7.24
Posted on November 3, 2002 at 06:13:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and get the regular block heater that was made for the tractor. This will consist of a different elbow between the radiator and the water pump and the heat element. It works great. Another thing you can get is a magnetic heater that is available at auto supply stores. Put it on the oil pan and plug it in. These work very well. Larry

1955&2255 value
IP: 152.163.189.168
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 01:12:09 PM by paul Ritscher

how much is your price on your 1955 you have on your web page? How much would a 2255 with 1400 hours be worth?

Re(1): 1955&2255 value
IP: 209.163.7.4
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 05:24:26 PM by Larry Harsin

The 2255 could be worth $10,000 if it is in nice shape. A lot depends on condition, if it is all there, if it runs right, paint, tires. I'm asking $8750 for the 1955. Larry

Re(1): 1955&2255 value
IP: 216.124.98.120
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 09:03:56 PM by brent

go with the 2255 if you have the chance. i have one i bought at an auction for $7000. spent another $3000 on lower bearings, and misc. repairs from white dealer. tractor has a 3150 cat v8 dynoed at 145hp. pulls a 9 bottom chisel no sweat. absolutely love it.....

60 after market manifold
IP: 64.12.96.13
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 01:01:51 PM by Gary Mitchell

Larry,

I'm thinking about pulling a 60 next summer. I noticed that the manifold passages are "tiny". Is there an after marget product that would help in that area?
Thanks,

Re(1): 60 after market manifold
IP: 209.163.7.5
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 09:01:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Not that I'm aware of. I think you could take a die-grinder and remove some metal and make the openings larger. Larry

Clutch disengagement
IP: 208.50.83.17
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 08:35:46 AM by Justin

Larry,
I recently purchased a Gas powered 770. I have a problem with clutch disengagement. When I disengage the clutch, the output shaft coming out of the bellhousing continues to spin, and I can't get the tractor in gear. It does stop the tractor, but there is enough friction somewhere to spin the shaft if the tranny is in neutral. I got a grease gun onto the fitting through the hole in the top of the bellhousing. I greased this fitting with the clutch disengaged, transmission in gear, and engine running and it helped somewhat. I hestitate to keep pumping grease in there for fear of getting grease on the clutch. Any suggestions? Should I keep repeating this procedure? If I remove the starter, unbolt the bellhousing, and slide it back, can I get access to the area which needs lubrication (assuming thats the problem)? The previous owner put a new clutch in this tractor while rebuilding the engine a couple years ago.

Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Clutch disengagement
IP: 209.163.7.5
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 08:59:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think greasing this is going to fix your problem. It may cause problems. I think you either have a pilot bearing that is stuck or something wrong with the pressure plate. This is going to have to be torn down to get at the problem. You will have to remove the drive shaft for the PTO from the back. Then you'll have to unbolt the engine and lift it up out of the frame to remove the clutch housing and find the problem. It might be an adjustment has come loose on one of clutch cover fingers or as I mentioned, the pilot bearing. It could be something else. Good Luck! Larry

770 Gas Block Heater
IP: 208.50.83.17
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 08:24:14 AM by Justin

Is there a block heater available for a 770 with a gas engine? I don't see any freeze plugs in the block. If not, where should I tap into the cooling circuit for an external tank-type heater?

Re(1): 770 Gas Block Heater
IP: 209.163.7.5
Posted on November 1, 2002 at 08:54:12 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a block heater for the 770. It is a new elbow on the lower radiator hose. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. has these. 800-320-6224. There is a magnetic heater available at auto supply stores. Simply place it on the bottom of the oil pan and in 2 hrs. it starts right off. No fuss, no muss. Larry

tractor
IP: 63.214.10.172
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 06:03:16 PM by kim

i have a model 60 oliver and i need a starter for it and how can i find a manual i never see the model 60 how come thanks kim

Re(1): tractor
IP: 209.163.7.63
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 09:30:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, Service Manual and Parts Manual from Charles City IA (where the tractors were built). Email Mary Ann Townsend at the local museum - fchs@fiai.net. There will be a charge of approx. $25 for each manual. I don't know why you havn't seen a model 60. There are lots of them. I don't have a starter. You can get one from T.H.E. 800-634-4885. Larry

Re(2): tractor
IP: 68.155.7.20
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 11:30:47 AM by George Steadman

I have a starter for a 60, it will have to be rebuilt. Take 25.00 as is or I can have it rebuilt and add 25 to the cost of the build.

77/770 front end
IP: 152.163.189.168
Posted on October 30, 2002 at 05:04:50 PM by Bob Oudenhoven

Larry,
Thanks for a great site! I have a 770 with wide front, that I would like to remove for reconditioning. I have an extra 77 narrow front. Can I bolt it on in the interim? Neither has p.s. Thank you very much.

Re(1): 77/770 front end
IP: 209.163.7.98
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 06:21:46 AM by Larry Harsin

You certainly can! Larry

oliver/GMC
IP: 137.36.251.174
Posted on October 30, 2002 at 03:32:56 PM by jay

I'v been told that some chevy motors will bolt up into 770/880 is this true and if so which motors? thanks

Re(1): oliver/GMC
IP: 209.163.7.98
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 06:20:39 AM by Larry Harsin

We have a Chevy motor in an 88. It's either a 261 or a 235. It sits in there decent. These are the same with a 770/880. Larry

Re(1): oliver/GMC
IP: 68.155.11.41
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 08:08:24 PM by George Steadman

A 292 makes a nice little replacement motor.

Re(2): oliver/GMC
IP: 152.163.188.68
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 01:21:39 PM by Paul Ritscher

What do you do to get the clutch, flywheel, and bellhousing to line up?

Re(3): oliver/GMC
IP: 209.163.7.4
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 05:27:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You put the backing plate, the fly wheel and the bellhousing onto the Chev. engine. You have to get them lined up and holes drilled etc and get it all bolted together. Larry

Re(3): oliver/GMC
IP: 209.163.7.45
Posted on November 5, 2002 at 06:08:59 AM by Larry Harsin

I am not an authority on doing this. It takes a lot of time and a lot of work. You have to redrill holes etc. You do have to get them to line up. Larry

770 Pan Seat
IP: 64.12.96.13
Posted on October 30, 2002 at 03:30:41 PM by JEFF1950

I have a 1960 gas 770 that has a pan seat with attached runner brackets that has rusted out. Where can I obtain either a good used one or a repro?

Re(1): 770 Pan Seat
IP: 209.163.7.29
Posted on November 2, 2002 at 06:33:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Jeff, I am sorry I took so long in answering. I was busy harvesting and I kept forgetting to look for one. I have a seat like you need. If you are still wanting one, email me. Larry

Re(2): 770 Pan Seat
IP: 64.12.96.205
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 09:45:14 PM by Jeff Fowler

How much for the seat, shipping, method of payment, and your mailing address. AND, Thank you Larry! (your site is great! the only complaint I have is that the Oliver museum you make frequent referral to for "information reprints" charges what I consider OUTRAGIOUS prices for their photocopies of service manual sections, and EVEN MORE OUTRAGIOUS prices for complete manuals).

1963 1800 oliver
IP: 198.81.26.108
Posted on October 30, 2002 at 10:38:20 AM by EddieJohnson

I would like to know what a 1963 1800 Oliver is worth? Some rust it is in good working has a three point hitch tires are 50%

Re(1): 1963 1800 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.98
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 06:16:14 AM by Larry Harsin

You didn't say if it is a gas or diesel or if it has a wide front. I would say a range of $2500 - $3500. Larry

770 hydraulics
IP: 216.43.146.211
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 08:39:10 PM by Tom Hesse

I purchased momemtary relief vavle from you a few months ago. I have it installed on the left rear port of a 770 with hydra-lectric. I don't believe it is working correctly(one-way loader cylinders won't go down. Where do start for proper setup of the new valve.

Re(1): 770 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.70
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 10:09:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I would screw the plunger in until it bottoms and then back it out about a turn or turn and a half and then work from there. Larry

"Hydra-Lectric"
IP: 207.42.32.31
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 05:52:36 PM by Kris Rutko

I have a 77 RC supposedly with "Hydra-Lectric" Guys are telling me it has something to do with depth control. Nothing works, its all fast. The tractor is 12v, is hydralectric 6v? Its all very confusing. Where's the best place to get technical info?

Re(1): "Hydra-Lectric"
IP: 209.163.7.70
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 10:06:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Charles City and ask for the book on Hydra-Lectric. They will be able to help you. You will have to tell them what unit you have and they will get the right info for you. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

550PTOCLUTCHPARTS
IP: 208.187.41.238
Posted on October 28, 2002 at 10:34:00 PM by L. NOLEN

QUESTION: FOR TEXAS REPAIR, WHICH ARE BEST SOURCES FOR PRESSURE PLATE & DISC FOR 550 DIESEL. DAD WAS A DEALER SO HAVE MANUALS BUT HAVE NOT KEPT UP ON SOURCES OF PARTS. TRACTOR HAS KEPT ON
RUNNING BUT NOW NEEDS ATTENTION. YOUR ASSISTANCE WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Re(1): 550PTOCLUTCHPARTS
IP: 209.163.7.70
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 10:03:08 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He'll ship the parts. Larry

Re(1): 550PTOCLUTCHPARTS
IP: 68.155.11.41
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 08:15:10 PM by George Steadman

I have used Smitty's in Ohio, he was real helpful and beat the Agco price by more than half. Re(2): 550PTOCLUTCHPARTS IP: 208.187.73.157 Posted on November 1, 2002 at 09:06:22 PM by LARRY NOLEN THANKS FOR THE HELP. NICE TO HEAR FROM PEOPLE WHO KNOW THE ANSWERS.

larry, did oliver ever make 770 or 880 tractors with the rounded nose like the original fleetline tractors??? hope you can settle this for me and some others thanks

Re(1): 770 880 sheetmetal
IP: 209.163.7.70
Posted on October 29, 2002 at 10:01:03 PM by Larry Harsin

No, they didn't. Not the 770's and 880's. They are all alike and will even interchange with each other. The Supers and the Fleetlines aren't like that. Larry

oliver 55
IP: 64.12.96.13
Posted on October 28, 2002 at 03:27:27 PM by jason

I am looking for a shifting pattern for my Dad's Super 55 .We can't seem to get it to change from Lo range.Also having trouble draining oil from rear half. Any info will be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): oliver 55
IP: 209.163.7.98
Posted on October 31, 2002 at 06:10:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Look at this as a capital I. On the upper left forward is 1, upper left back is R 1, upper right forward is 5, upper right back is 2. In low range lower left forward is 3, lower left back is R 2, lower right forward is 6, lower right back is 4.
Draining the oil. There are 3 compartments to drain the transmission. Perhaps there is dirt or foreign material blocking the drainage hole. Stick a screw driver or something in there and see if that is the problem. In cold weather I have encountered ice blocking the hole. Larry

Oil on brake discs
IP: 209.92.255.18
Posted on October 26, 2002 at 05:36:07 AM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. Is it possible for gear oil to seep from the transmission into the brake housing past the axles? Both sides were greasy/oily, but the left side was really bad. I know some on the left side is from my leaky hydraulic fittings, but didn't know if that was the only source that was making my brake linings greasy/oily. Thank you very much for your time & help. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oil on brake discs
IP: 209.163.7.33
Posted on October 26, 2002 at 06:30:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it's possible. I would just clean out the brake housings and put it back together and try it before doing any seal replacements etc. There are drain holes between the seal and brake discs on some model's housings. Make sure they are not plugged. Also, check the fluid level in the transmission and the condition of the fluid. If it looks milky or contaminated, change it putting in the correct fluid to the correct level. Larry

1750 oliver
IP: 64.24.135.100
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 08:31:20 PM by Mike Clifton

Could you please advise what year model and horsepower a 1750 oliver is.
Ser # 187 326 427
mod # 275 22315

Re(1): 1750 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.33
Posted on October 26, 2002 at 06:25:36 AM by Larry Harsin

This 1750 was built in 1967. They were 80 Hp. Larry

oliverbigsky 1365
IP: 216.215.133.78
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 03:18:15 PM by JEROME LEROY

mr.Harsin,i bought an oliver tractor and I need parts for it. i live in central sc and nobody sales anything for this kind of tractor.the motor needs to be rebuilt.my address is 835 jones mill rd central s.c 29630 my home phone is 864-653-3072.could you please help me. THANKYOU, JEROME LEROY

Re(1): oliverbigsky 1365
IP: 209.163.7.7
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 07:02:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I have sent an email to you before finding your question on this page. I referred you to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. And to Danney Bowes in Ontario Canada at www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry

Super 88 Side Panels
IP: 207.230.193.41
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 01:16:31 PM by Kilian

Here's another "will it fit" question: Will engine front side panels from a Super 88 fit on a 1952 88 without too much modification?

Also, what should one expect to pay for super 88 engine side panels in decent shape?

I am thinking of using Super 88 panels in the summer to help let more heat out then 88 panels would, but still keeping a little "Oliver styling".

Re(1): Super 88 Side Panels
IP: 209.163.7.7
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 06:59:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, I think they will. Prices will vary a little on "original ones with "condition". You can get new reproductions ones for Richard Lynch 937-456-6686, or cyberat@infinet.com. Larry

Waukesha head gasket
IP: 12.32.34.13
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 00:56:03 AM by Kelly

I have a Waukesha 180 DLC diesel engine to drive my gen set. I need a head gasket. I understand the Oliver Super 55 uses this engine. Is this the same gasket and where can I get one? Thanks for any help Pat.

Re(1): Waukesha head gasket
IP: 209.163.7.59
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 06:34:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say they use the same gasket. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will know and will have the gasket. Larry

hydrapower creeper gear
IP: 204.246.7.39
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 08:15:36 PM by matt plano

i need a hydrapower transmission with
a creeper gear for a 1962-1964 oliver
1800 gas tractor can you help?

Re(1): hydrapower creeper gear
IP: 209.163.7.63
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 10:48:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have this. These units were sold in Calif and places where they raised vegetables for the table. Contact Dolk Tractor Co. in Rio Vista CA 707-374-6438. Larry

Wheel Weight Question
IP: 207.230.193.36
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 08:06:20 PM by Kilian

Will wheel weights from a 60 fit an 88 RC?

Re(1): Wheel Weight Question
IP: 209.163.7.63
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 10:44:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they will fit. Larry

Re(2): Wheel Weight Question
IP: 207.230.193.32
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 07:49:03 AM by Kilian

Thanks for the reply. How many sets of weights can be put on an 88? The tractor is used for fieldwork, not pulling, and I'd rather use weights then fluid in the tires.

Re(3): Wheel Weight Question
IP: 209.163.7.7
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 06:55:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think there is a limit, but I don't think I would exceed 5 sets (10 weights) which is about 1300 lbs. Larry

Engine Kit
IP: 216.24.107.6
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 05:33:49 PM by H Ray Hall

Hello Again, I have a 40 ####shutt tractor. It is a six cyl 230 I think. Is there a oliver engine that parts will interchange with. Thanks H Ray

Re(1): Engine Kit
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:48:28 PM by Larry Harsin

No. A ####shutt 40 used a Buda engine. Parts are available from an AGCO Dealer that handles Allis Chalmers or you can get some parts from NAPA. Larry

Re(1): Engine Kit
IP: 150.199.112.226
Posted on November 4, 2002 at 11:46:23 AM by Mr. Heilig

I need to find a water pump for a Oliver 70 , and an over haul kit , any suggestions

Re(2): Engine Kit
IP: 209.163.7.29
Posted on December 1, 2002 at 10:16:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I just saw your question tonight. Hopefully you'll see the answer. Check with Korves Bros. korves@htc.net Larry

ignition points
IP: 216.24.107.6
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 05:20:18 PM by H Ray Hall

My neighbor needs points for a 550 Oliver. Do you have them, or do you know the part #. It is a English Built tractor I Think. Thanks H Ray

Re(1): ignition points
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:46:19 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 different styles of points. It depends on the year of the 550. If you take the old points to the NAPA store, they will have them. The 550 is not English Built. All 550's were built at Charles City IA. Larry

Re(2): ignition points
IP: 208.10.124.79
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 11:55:09 AM by Larry from Maryland

The 500 was the brittish made one.If thats what you have, then david brown parts are what you are looking for.Go to case to find them.

Steering Wheel
IP: 65.208.44.106
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 11:36:25 AM by Bill Copeland

I just had a guy try to sell me an Oliver steering wheel that he said will fit my 1935 Silver King.He said it is standard on all Oliver 77,s &88,s.What i need is 17" dia.with a keyed hub.The original one had 3 spokes and they were covered. Does this sound right?
Thanks
Bill

Re(1): Steering Wheel
IP: 209.163.7.85
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:43:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, I think it will work. Larry

OLIVER 70
IP: 152.163.189.168
Posted on October 22, 2002 at 09:32:08 PM by Don Carone

I recently restored a 1947 Farmall cub and would like to continue my new hobby. I ran across a 1939 OLIVER 70 that looks to be original for $2500.00 not far from my home. Would this be a good restoation project? Will I be able to find parts? If not the OLIVER I was thinking of a 1947 Ford 8n
would love your input!!

Re(1): OLIVER 70
IP: 209.163.7.16
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:45:14 AM by Larry Harsin

If the Oliver 70 is in good condition, it will be a good project. Availability of parts is good. If it isn't in good condition, I think $2500 is sort of high. On the Ford, parts availability is better than the 70. It all depends on your choice. Larry

oliver77rc
IP: 12.149.228.194
Posted on October 22, 2002 at 03:45:50 PM by scott

larry is there any way to make a 3point hitch for an oliver77rc 1949?thank you

Re(1): oliver77rc
IP: 209.163.7.16
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how to make one. I have one here that will fit a 77. If you are interested in it, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com. Larry

Re(2): oliver77rc
IP: 155.80.89.13
Posted on October 25, 2002 at 01:47:49 PM by shannon

Larry,
What are you asking for the three point hitch, if you still have it? Shannon

S55 Carb
IP: 207.171.93.45
Posted on October 22, 2002 at 12:13:17 AM by beck

Larry-

Do you know what the jets on the carburator should be set at (how many screw turns) on a 1956 Super 55? Any information is appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): S55 Carb
IP: 209.163.7.16
Posted on October 23, 2002 at 06:39:05 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't. Your Operator's Manual will tell you this. If you need and Operator's Manual, you can order one from Mary Ann Townsend in Charles City IA at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

PTO
IP: 65.58.8.214
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 03:14:16 PM by Wil Thomas

Hello Larry!,
On my s55, the pto shaft will continue to rotate while disingaged if I do not have something hooked up to it..
My brushhog works great and doesn't appear to be slipping at all.
So I backed off the clutch but it still rotates. Is this normal? IS there a fix? Thanks Larry,
Wil

Re(1): PTO
IP: 209.163.7.34
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 11:28:10 PM by Larry Harsin

That is a common problem of these. It can be either grease leaking into the clutch or the clutch can have warped plates and discs. Larry Harsin

Re(2): PTO
IP: 216.180.126.123
Posted on October 30, 2002 at 09:11:56 PM by C.Jones

my pto will not engage or disengage would apprechate any sugestion about problem

1855 OLIVER
IP: 12.91.232.252
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 02:10:27 PM by WENDELL H GEIGER

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 1975 MODEL 1855, WITH OVER AND UNDER TRANSMISSION. EVERYTHING WORKED FINE UNTIL NOW. THE TRANSMISSION WILL SHIFT AND MESH IN ALL GEARS, BOTH HIGH AND LOW, BUT HAS LOST NORMAL SPEEDS AND ACTS IF ALL GEARS ARE SUDDENLY IN A CREEPER MODE. ANY ADVICE WILL BE APPRECIATED.

Re(1): 1855 OLIVER
IP: 209.163.7.34
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 11:26:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what is going on there. Larry

Re(1): 1855 OLIVER
IP: 66.192.61.19
Posted on October 22, 2002 at 07:09:15 AM by Shep

Sounds like it could be something in the three speed. Check the oil to start with, I had a tractor get really low in three speed oil and start slipping and lowering the ground speed. Your three speed would have to be slipping badly to cause what you are describing.

I cant imagine it is anything in the transmission, but like larry said this is a hard one and I really dont know.

super 55
IP: 65.83.199.36
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 01:20:20 PM by wayne trundle

I own a nice little super 55 but it has a few problems. It has a bad hyd. pump,a bad 2nd gear, and a busted bell housing from a blown clutch(which has been replaced). my 1st question is this. I know that the 550 superceeded the super55 but will a 550 rear half bolt up and work with my super55 tractor? I have found a source for the whole rear half of a 550 in good shape but will it interchange? 2nd, my super55 came with draft control but the 550 I saw did not, was this just an optional item and can those parts be interchanged? any help would be appreciated.
thanks,
wayne trundle

Re(1): super 55
IP: 209.163.7.34
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 11:24:18 PM by Larry Harsin

That rear half will bolt right up there. They both have draft control, but the 550 is a little different. I would just put on the rear half and that would take care of the draft control problem also. Larry

88
IP: 155.91.6.71
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 12:27:36 AM by Parker Mathers

I just purchased an 88 and need a set of bars or pipes that go through the frame holes for attaching cultivators etc. What are these called and do you have any? Thanks, Parker

Re(1): 88
IP: 209.163.7.34
Posted on October 21, 2002 at 11:19:38 PM by Larry Harsin

These are called Mounting Pipes. Do you want them for a 2 row or a 4 row? I might have a set for a 2 row. I'll check in the morning. Larry

Re(2): 88
IP: 155.91.6.71
Posted on October 22, 2002 at 04:47:53 AM by Parker

I think I need 2 row. Let me measure to be sure. Thanks, Parker

hard starting 77
IP: 155.80.89.13
Posted on October 20, 2002 at 10:18:38 AM by shannon

Larry, still having trouble with the diesel 77rc i bought in june for mowing pasture. I have to shoot a little ether into the intake each time I start it or crank it over for a full minute or so to get it to start and even then I usually end up going back to the ether. Do I have an injector pump problem or a compression problem or both? Once it starts, I can mow all day unless I shut it off. Then it won't hardly start at all. What's up and how much might it cost me? Thanks for a great site for all us Ollie lovers, Larry.

Re(1): hard starting 77
IP: 209.163.7.95
Posted on October 20, 2002 at 09:04:54 PM by Larry Harsin

If it starts hard after the engine is up to operating temperature, like when you shut it off after using it and try to restart it, it would be my guess that you have a worn injection head on your pump. Contact Central Fuel Injection at Estherville IA about this starting problem. Their phone is:712-362-4200. Their website is: www.centralfuelinjection.com
Larry

880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.158
Posted on October 19, 2002 at 09:17:43 PM by mark

I've never owned a diesel ... until now. This one smokes black, sometimes not as bad as other times, but mostly bad. I don't know if it is fuel related or if the engine needs rebuilding. Would you please give me a few pointers on how to figure out this problem. It is a '58 880. Thank You.

Re(1): 880 diesel
IP: 209.163.7.98
Posted on October 20, 2002 at 06:34:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is pull the injectors and take them to your diesel shop and have them checked. I would guess that your nozzle opening pressures are down and the spray patterns are incorrect. While you have the injectors out, remove the energy cell caps on the other side of the engine and pull the outer half of the energy cell out of the head. This will be the 3rd piece - the cap, the cover and then take a pliers and pull the cap for the cell itself out of the head and inspect the energy cell. If it is not plugged with carbon, it's o.k. If it is plugged with carbon, you will have to clean the carbon from the cell using a drill bit or some scraping tool to remove this carbon. Be careful not to damage the cell body. compressed air is also helpful. If you cannot get that inner cell cleaned properly, you may have to contact an AGCO Dealer to obtain a puller to remove the inner cell body from the head. When reassembling, rub the ceiling surfaces where the cell comes together, on a wood block to polish it. Then reassemble it. When you get all this done and get your engine running again, see how the smoke situation is. If the smokes is still excessive, you will need to adjust the smoke screw in the injection pump. When you take the injectors to the diesel shop, inquire there about adjusting this. Larry

Re(2): 880 diesel
IP: 169.207.45.136
Posted on October 24, 2002 at 08:45:25 PM by mark

Thank You. I'll get to work. I'm on my wy to learn a little about diesel.

power booster
IP: 64.19.83.187
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 09:50:57 PM by kris

I recently bought a 1959 880 gas with power booster on it. The lever, rod and fork to the over-center clutch were not on the tractor when I bought it(the owner didn't even know it had the power booster).I'm assuming it doesn't work and is in direct drive.I have a parts book and shop manual but I'm having trouble figuring out how it works.Once the over-center clutch is disengaged, how is power transmitted to the power booster. I know there is a sprag clutch and a set of reduction gears in the unit but still can't figure out that front clutch.If indeed the unit is bad, are parts still available and are they pricey?Thank you

Re(1): power booster
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 10:38:16 PM by Larry Harsin

You are assuming correctly. I am pretty sure that at least the sprag clutch will be bad. The way it works is, when that over center clutch is released, the power goes into the under drive unit through the back side of the clutch and drives the reduction gears and the sprag clutch has to engage the transmission input shaft. To repair this unit, it will take at least a sprag clutch and new seals. There are probably some bad bearings also. The last time I checked, the sprag clutch was over $300. Larry

1850
IP: 12.17.65.7
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 03:23:43 PM by Brad

I just took off the harmonic balancer and put it back on my diesel 1850 .
o the bolts need to be torqued.
i took it off to get a new belt on .
thanks for any help .

Re(1): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 10:31:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure of what you want to know. After you put it back together, make sure it is tight. After you run it a little, check it again for tightness. Larry

1650 Gas Clutch Issue
IP: 147.154.235.52
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 02:54:46 PM by Tom Schinktgen

Hello Larry, I have a couple of questions for you.

I have a 1650 Gas Oliver with a Freeman 4000 loader and Snow Bucket. The tractor is in good condition all the tin is straight and fore the most part everything works, ie lights instruments. It could use paint.

I was recently leveling out my drive way and the clutch stopped working. It wouldn't stop the tractor at all. This sounds like a mechanical problem. Does this tractor have a hydraulic clutch or Mechanical Clutch? All of the clutches that I have been around that fail slip real bad before they are junk. What Broke? I have read that fingers will break off or clutch rivets will let go. I have the means to do this myself, but would you know approx. costs to have someone else do it versus doing it my self?

Re(1): 1650 Gas Clutch Issue
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 10:22:44 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a mechanical clutch. It could be a clutch lining has come loose and folded up in there. It could be a throw-out bearing has froze up and burned the fingers off the pressure plate. That is the main possibilities. In any case, it is going to have to be taken apart. You will have about 8 hrs. labor and then the parts. You could have anywhere from $800 - $1000 repair bill easily. Larry

1957 Oliver55
IP: 152.163.189.168
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 11:27:41 AM by J M Foutz

I am rebuilding my Oliver and need a new bearing for the steering column. Do you know where I can find one?

Re(1): 1957 Oliver55
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 10:27:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1850
IP: 204.220.60.190
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 11:19:45 AM by Jason

I am rebuilding and repainting my oliver 1850 Diesel. Do you have the proper paint code for this tractor. I typically use Napa Crossfire paint.

Re(1): 1850
IP: 209.163.7.56
Posted on October 17, 2002 at 10:13:48 PM by Larry Harsin

The paint code for your 1850: Oliver Meadow Green is Martin Senour 99L-3751; Clover White is DAR 46536 or PPG Heather Green. We like the Meadow Green and the Clover White that you get from AGCO. Larry

1650 Oliver PTO
IP: 65.163.188.118
Posted on October 15, 2002 at 11:07:01 PM by John

I have a 1966 1650 and it has a leak around the pto shaft. I ordered parts and recieved an o-ring and a seal. Where does the seal go, does it go near the bearing on the end of the shaft, or up in the housing?

Re(1): 1650 Oliver PTO
IP: 209.163.7.75
Posted on October 16, 2002 at 06:23:02 PM by Larry Harsin

My experience is that the "O" ring needs to be replaced. If there is still oil leaking, replace the bearing on the output shaft. This is a common complaint on 1650. I don't know where the seal goes. It is a factory sealed bearing so you have to replace the bearing. That is how I fix these. Larry

lift arm pin
IP: 67.33.253.186
Posted on October 15, 2002 at 07:33:28 PM by jerry e keller

larry, i have lost the lift arm pin that screws into the rear end housing. i need to replace this pin. where do i find this pin. thanks jerry

Re(1): lift arm pin
IP: 209.163.7.82
Posted on October 15, 2002 at 11:00:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I am assuming this is on a S55 or a 550. I don't have one. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He might be able to help you. Larry

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