"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid Sept. through Nov., 2001 Archives


oliver gas 550 fluids

Posted by clueless and manual - less on 11/28/2001 at 20:37:24 IP: 24.200.152.139

The manual's on order. Meanwhile we're stuck here in the Quebec boonies, trying to piece together what (and where) to install in old ollie. Are we right in thinking that:

A>1. Transmission and diff are one, but with 3 drain plugs? 2. The check plug will be a half-inch pipe somewhere on the right side of the trans housing? 3. It will take 5 US gallons of 80/90? 4. And where do you put it in?

B.5. Hydraulic is under the seat and has to be pumped out by the hydraulic pump itself? 6. The fill hole is somewhere under the seat? 7. The little stubby dipstick behind the seat that says 'check level daily'is for this? 8. It takes 9 US quarts of universal hydraulic or #10W (plus "2 quarts with extension valve" how do I know if I have one?)

C.9 PTO takes a pint of 80/90 transmission grease? Where does that go in and where is the level check, if any? 10. Do we need any gaskets for all this?

If you could straighten us out we'd be awfully grateful.

Reviewing Larry's archives it's astounding how many people you've been able to help!

Best regards Warren Major

Re: oliver gas 550 fluids Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/29/2001 at 05:39:11 IP: 209.163.7.88

1. Yes. 2. It's usually a 3/8" pipe plug located on the right rear of the main frame behind the right axle housing. 3. Not necessarily. I'll check my manual and answer that later. 4. There's a filler plug on the top of the trans. towards the front. 5. Yes. 6. Yes. 7. That's the hydraulic dipstick. 8. Just fill it to the full mark on the dipstick. 9. That is lubricated by the transmission fluid so you don't have to lubricate the PTO. 10. No. I'll get back to you on the fluid ques. (3). Larry.....

Re: oliver gas 550 fluids Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/29/2001 at 06:15:26 IP: 209.163.7.75

3. According to my manual it holds 5 gallons. And 80/90 is o.k. If you are going to use this tractor a lot in cold weather, you might want to use something like Hy-Tran from International Harvester or it's equivalent. Thanks for the compliments to our website. We enjoy it. Larry...............

Re: oliver gas 550 fluids Posted by clueless and manual - less on 11/29/2001 at 15:50:21 IP: 24.200.152.139

Many thanks for ultra-fast reply (Do you folks sleep?) We'll let you know how we make out when we dig 'er out tomorrow. I should have also asked if there's a filter on the hydraulic, and where it's hiding. Best wishes Warren

Re: oliver gas 550 fluids Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/29/2001 at 20:03:27 IP: 209.163.7.48

The 550 has a cast iron filter on the hydraulic that you unscrew to get the element out. It's about 3 and a half inches long, located up under the seat somewhere. Larry........

Oliver 4240/4340 Plow

Posted by ShepFL on 11/26/2001 at 14:28:44 IP: 38.192.251.39

Planning to buy trailer plow 3 bottom Oliver. I beleive it is a 4240 or perhaps a 4340.

Are these good plows or should I look for something else? I have always heard Oliver plows were the TOPS! Have been unable to locate a 3pth 3x14 or 3x16 plow for my 550 Dsl.

I am still awaiting pics otherwise I would post them. Thanks in advance.

Re: Oliver 4240/4340 Plow Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/27/2001 at 04:39:43 IP: 209.163.7.49

I have a 4240 for $275 and a 4340 for $450. They are excellent plows. Both of these are pull type plows. Larry............

1755

Posted by JERROLD DEESE on 11/25/2001 at 11:15:44 IP: 12.21.155.16

LARRY I HAVE A 1755 OLIVER DIESEL TRACTOR THAT HAS A WALKASHAW ENGINE IN IT HOW MUCH WORK OR CHANGE OVER IS INVOLVED IN PUTTING A CUMMINS ENGINE IN PLACE OF THE WALKASHAW AND HOW EXPENSIVE IS IT I CANNOT REBUILD THE WALKASHAW ENGINE

Re: 1755 Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/25/2001 at 11:45:57 IP: 209.163.7.17

It will cost roughly $10,000 including labor. There is a regular change-over package that comes with the engine so that it can be "field installed". Contact your Cummins Dealer and he will put you in touch with where to get the "kit". It is a Major Job. Anyone I have talked to that has had it done, is very happy with the results. Larry.......

Re: 1755 Posted by Don on 11/26/2001 at 19:04:33 IP: 205.188.199.162

what's wrong with the engine? throw a rod?

Re: 1755 Posted by Shep on 11/29/2001 at 11:12:17 IP: 216.76.116.104

I have personally changed over two Olivers to Cummins engines and really like the results, I did an 1850 and an 1855 and they are not even the same tractors. I would spend the money and make the switch. I changed mine for about $6500 each but I did all the work and got the engines bought right. Good luck.

550 Gas

Posted by John Berge on 11/24/2001 at 22:13:42 IP: 209.163.34.119

Larry, I have a 550 Oliver with a Workhorse loader. I would like to find an Oliver loader that was made for the 550. Do you know the Model Number for this loader? Do you know of any for sale? Thanks

Re: 550 Gas Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/25/2001 at 06:22:58 IP: 209.163.7.83

I don't have a full listing, but one of them was the 1510 Oliver loader. I don't know of any for sale at this time. Thanks for signing our Guest Book. Email us if you are interested in joining an Oliver Club, we can line you up. Larry............

S55 pto clutch

Posted by Rod C on 11/21/2001 at 20:04:31 IP: 66.43.212.175

I installed new pto clutch disks and it is ingaged all the time if i loosen it up 1 notch the pto will disingage but the front disk will drop down out of the clutch pac

Re: S55 pto clutch Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/23/2001 at 05:59:10 IP: 209.163.7.80

Take it apart again. You have something assembled wrong. Larry..........

S77 Sheetmetal

Posted by Rich on 11/21/2001 at 06:52:55 IP: 65.209.153.225

We are looking for engine and tank side sheilds for a S77, do you have any available? Can you tell me if the sheet metal from a 779 would fit?

Re: S77 Sheetmetal Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/21/2001 at 17:10:54 IP: 209.163.7.92

I think I have those. I'll check in the morning. Why don't you email me by then I will know. The sheet metal from a 770 won't fit. Larry................

1650 Spindles

Posted by Ryan on 11/19/2001 at 20:18:36 IP: 209.152.105.27

Larry, I had someone tell me that if I ever break a spindle on my 1650, I should go get the whole inner axle tube and spindle from an 1850 or 1950, it would slide right in. I am just now putting a loader on my tractor, and wonder if this is worth looking into? What should I pay for a set if I found them? Should I not worry about it? Thanks in advance. I consider your site "the gospel" on Olivers. Ryan

Re: 1650 Spindles

Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/20/2001 at 05:22:57 IP: 209.163.7.88

It will depend on how heavy of loader work you are going to do. If you're not going to do real heavy work, leaving them as is might be just fine. If you know you are going to be doing heavy work, I would trade the whole front end for the heavier one. I have a heavier complete front end priced at $900. Larry.........

Re: 1650 Spindles Posted by Ryan on 11/20/2001 at 06:01:58 IP: 209.152.105.53

Thanks Larry, I don't think I am going to do mush really heavy work, and I don't depend on this tractor for my living, so I can see how it takes it first. I am putting a WL 40 loader on with 7 foot bucket. Mostly snow and a little dirt work. nothing every day. thanks again for the advice. Ryan

Re: 1650 Spindles Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/20/2001 at 07:37:23 IP: 209.163.7.80

That's just what I'd do then. Avoid using wide floatation tires on this tractor. That causes a lot of trouble. Just use the tires that came on the tractor. Larry...............

Re: 1650 Spindles Posted by Don on 11/21/2001 at 21:05:48 IP: 205.188.199.37

My 1755 has a loader on it, and it broke the front left axel pin, which in return broke the spindle. first time it happened the tire got caught inside a furrow while plowing and going around a tree. second time the pin snapped while transporting a large square bale. both times it was just welded back on the shaft. finally it broke the third time while pushing heavy hay/manure away from a bunk wagon and ended up going to the bone yard and getting a spindle from an 1855. I'm not sure if the spindles were the same on those 2 tractors, but apparently, it has an 1855 front if they aren't the same length. It has 11.Lx15's, but I dont think that they were the factory size, atleast not according to some sources I have read.

Re: 1650 Spindles Posted by on 11/21/2001 at 18:10:13 IP: 209.152.105.24

Larry, I am upgrading to 9L 15's. it came with 6.00 16's and I thought I had no choice but to upgrade. the weights they say they can carry in my manual seemed too low for a loader, even with light use. Was this a mistake? Ryan

Re: 1650 Spindles Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/23/2001 at 05:56:18 IP: 209.163.7.80

I prefer to go to 750x16 tire for that front end. They are narrower than a 900 and don't put so much stress on the spindles. Larry...............

Sheet Metal

Posted by Richard Skinner on 11/19/2001 at 18:23:10 IP: 63.172.140.76

Hello Larry, Long Time.... Did you ever get any fenders or a good hood for a 1650D? I know you were headed out to buy one awhile back but I never heard anymore from you.

Re: Sheet Metal Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/20/2001 at 07:34:02 IP: 209.163.7.80

No. I never got any. The tractor I got was a gas job. I decided to restore it. Larry..........

1600 remote valves

Posted by Roger Mothersbaugh on 11/18/2001 at 09:01:48 IP: 216.74.201.161

Larry: My remotes build pressure when tracor is running, although not in use. If I have both connected to individual cylinders and engage power to one then the opposite side also opens its cylinder (weakly). Any ideas. Thanks, Roger

Re: 1600 remote valves Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/19/2001 at 07:13:15 IP: 209.163.7.45

That is not uncommon and I don't know how to prevent it. It is the way they are and it won't hurt anything. Larry.............

Re: 1600 remote valves Posted by Roger Mothersbaugh on 11/19/2001 at 11:20:48 IP: 216.74.200.107

Larry: When not in use I plug the remotes with male tips w/ pipe plugs to prevent loss of fluid. I can remove them easily if the tractor has not been run recently. If the tractor is running or has just been shut down I have to pry the tips out with a pair of channel locks. When they come out they fly like a bullet under a lot of pressure. The only application that I use two cylinders is on a baler with hydralic tie. Because when using one cylinder to tie, the baler door will open partially. I got around this by putting ball valves in the lines routing to the door. By closing them I can tie the bale. By the way, what do you want for your 1955 in your for sale items? Thanks, Roger

Re: 1600 remote valves Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/19/2001 at 13:09:18 IP: 209.163.7.17 Yeah! That's the way they are. Pioneer has a coupler that you can hook up under pressure. They'll work better. I'm asking $7950 for the 1955. Larry...........

Loader Valve Assembly Cap

Posted by Michel West on 11/12/2001 at 19:57:53 IP: 63.224.210.65

I have a 1976 White 2-63-15 Mighty-Hoe and the front end loader valve assembly has a cap on the back end of the top spool, it has a broken ear on the cap which holds one of the screws on the cap. This cap has a spring and the spool I believe slides into this cap when you pull back on the loader joystick to raise the loader. Anyone know where I can find parts for the valve assembly??? Michael West kj7vj@hotmail.com 1-509-458-7673

Re: Loader Valve Assembly Cap Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/13/2001 at 05:24:14 IP: 209.163.7.89

Talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry.............

CESSNA Valve Spool Cap

Posted by Michael West on 11/14/2001 at 20:34:43 IP: 207.108.54.160

Hi, have more info on cap. It is a Cessna Valve assembly and the cap goes on the back of the top spool for the up and down. The number on the cap is 30621-307c. Tractor is a White 2-63-15 Mighty-Hoe 1971-75 model. Michael West kj7vj@hotmail.com

oliver sheet metal

Posted by Kenny Reed on 11/12/2001 at 17:48:35 IP: 67.96.251.173

Does anyone have good straight sheet metal for a 1954 oliver super 99 with 371 detroit?

Re: oliver sheet metal Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/13/2001 at 05:21:34 IP: 209.163.7.89

I don't know of anyone who would have that. Maybe someone else will know. Larry..................

Which is #1 cylinder

Posted by Greg Schleusner on 11/12/2001 at 09:40:00 IP: 65.224.244.166

I have a 1961 550 gas with a 4 cyl. engine. My service manual tells me the firing order is 1-2-4-3 and that the rotor turns ccw, but it doesn't tell me which cyl. is #1! If I assume it follows convention then I'd guess the front cylinder.

ANYONE KNOW FOR SURE WHICH CYLINDER IS #1 ? Thanks

Re: Which is #1 cylinder Posted by Larry Wolfe on 11/12/2001 at 10:49:57 IP: 208.10.125.97

The number one is in the front next to the waterpump.

Re: Which is #1 cylinder Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/12/2001 at 17:38:53 IP: 209.163.7.39

Larry Wolfe is right. Number one is closest to the radiator. Your rotor goes clockwise on that engine instead of counter-clockwise. Larry.............

Anybody know the difference between a 3240 and 3241 Oliver Plow

Posted by Paul Stanley on 11/12/2001 at 00:14:27 IP: 209.53.221.66

I have been looking at a 3240 plow to purchase for my Super 55 and the question came up about what the difference was between a 3240 and a 3241 plow. Anybody got any ideas?

Re: Anybody know the difference between a 3240 and 3241 Oliver Plow Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/12/2001 at 17:34:18 IP: 209.163.7.39

Contact Sherry Schaefer at sherry@oliverinformation.com. She is Editor of the Hart-Parr Oliver Collector's Magazine and will know the answer. Larry.............

70 head gasket

Posted by chad on 11/11/2001 at 07:08:45 IP: 208.31.75.38

Larry, What are the torque specks for putting the new head gasket on my 70? Is there a hot and cold speck? Also, what kind of fuel filter did Oliver 70 have originally, and if they still make them, where could I get one? Thanks!

Re: 70 head gasket Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/12/2001 at 06:03:00 IP: 209.163.7.26

The torque specks for the head bolts are 75 lbs. The left front and left rear (short) headbolts are 5 lbs. less. The valves at .012 inch at room temp. Start it up and warm it up. Then let it cool down to room temp. Retorque head and readjust valves to .012 inch. Larry..........

White 2-63-15 Mighty-Hoe

Posted by Michael West on 11/10/2001 at 12:50:05 IP: 207.225.43.236

Does anyone know how many of these industrial backhoes were made, I have one but it seems to be hard finding anyone else who has one????

Re: White 2-63-15 Mighty-Hoe Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/11/2001 at 06:02:09 IP: 209.163.7.11

Contact Sherry Schaeffer, Editor of the Hart-Parr Oliver Collector's Magazine. sherry@oliverinformation.com This is a great magazine that you get with your $20 membership to the Hart-Parr Oliver Collector's Assoc. Lots of letters, stories and ads, and you can put ads in for free if you are a member. Sherry may be able to answer "How many?". My Brother has one. Larry.......

1950T 3-point hitch

Posted by Myron Vories on 11/9/2001 at 18:28:54 IP: 65.138.81.61

Hi Larry, I was looking at a 1950T today. The 3-point hitch has two external cylinders. The hitch was up and would not go down under their own weight or with me standing on them. Is his normal or is something wrong? Also the PTO was very easy to engage. Shouldn't it require 40-50 pounds pull, on the lever, to engage? Are these inexpensive repairs or should I pass on this tractor? The engine/drive train works well.

Re: 1950T 3-point hitch Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/9/2001 at 21:43:50 IP: 209.163.7.47

The PTO just needs to be adjusted a little which is very easy to do. The 3 Pt. hitch may just need to be adjusted on the hydraulic. It shouldn't be a serious problem. I think if you would look at an Operator's Manual for an 1850 or a 1950 it would tell you what is going on here. Larry...........

Re: 1950T 3-point hitch Posted by Myron Vories on 11/10/2001 at 06:49:03 IP: 63.25.207.237

Thanks Larry! I really appreciate your advice. Great web site!

Head Gasket

Posted by Dale G on 11/8/2001 at 13:08:54 IP: 63.168.203.67

When putting a new head gasket on a Super 88 Diesel should I use any sealer or permatex or leave it dry? Thanks for all your help!!!!!!

Re: Head Gasket Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/8/2001 at 18:06:12 IP: 209.163.7.69

Leave it dry. Most of those gaskets have a coating which is usually enough. However, if you feel you need to use something, use a light coat of aluminum paint. After you get the head back on, get it all torqued up and start it up and let it run for half an hour. Then shut it down and let it cool down and torque it up again. Then adjust your valves and you are set. Larry......

Super 55

Posted by Larry Nichols on 11/7/2001 at 21:45:35 IP: 64.0.99.201

Recently bought a '54 Super 55 for parts. The motor had been let freeze and has cracks between each cylinder. I know what I'd do if it was a small block chevy but don't know about a sleeved motor. Could it be fixed? Remainder of the tractor is extremely tight, even the origional seat rubber is a-1!

Re: Super 55 Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/8/2001 at 05:38:41 IP: 209.163.7.3

If those cracks are only on the top deck of the block, it may be usable. However, if it is cracked between the sleeves in the bottom of the block, it is not usable. If you want, I might be able to find you a used block. Send me an email. Larry.......

Re: Super 55 Posted by Mark on 11/8/2001 at 14:26:34 IP: 207.16.136.22

Where are you guys finding parts Super 55's? I've been looking for a parts 55 diesel forever, and have never even seen one.

Re: Super 55 Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/8/2001 at 17:59:07 IP: 209.163.7.69

Call Tim Smith at Smitty's Tractor Parts in Dalton OH - 330-832-9792. It's best to call him in the evenings. Then try Doug Johnson at Doug's Oliver Parts at Aplington IA at Dougolpt@cnsinternet.com. These guys might have what you need. Or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl - 800-320-6224. Hope this helps. Larry.........

1850 hydraulic filter

Posted by Ronnie Evans on 11/7/2001 at 20:11:05 IP: 216.51.101.15

I have a problem with my hydraulic filter it appears to be cross threaded it does not leak and lifts fine.Would you have to change the whole housing or could you put an in-line filter on it and by-pass the original.Really enjoy your site here in Texas.

Re: 1850 hydraulic filter Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/8/2001 at 05:34:19 IP: 209.163.7.3

You could try a different filter on the housing to see if that would work. I don't think that an in-line filter will work. I believe I'd just leave it alone and use it. Larry.......

Re: 1850 hydraulic filter Posted by Shep on 11/9/2001 at 06:29:05 IP: 216.76.116.104

I have a 1655 that has a simular problem, the threads on both the filter housing and the cover are slowly getting chewed up. Sounds awful when you take in on or off. It doesnt leak, but is just a matter of time before it will not have any threads. What do I do when the threads finally give up?? I have just not been changing the filter very often so that I dont have to open it up, and it not go back. Any ideas????

Re: 1850 hydraulic filter Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/9/2001 at 21:47:50 IP: 209.163.7.47

Consult with your AGCO Dealer. When we had problems years ago there was a fix for that, sort of a rethreading procedure, then you could put on a new filter housing. Larry.................

Re: 1850 hydraulic filter Posted by ronnie on 11/10/2001 at 05:26:47 IP: 216.51.102.13

Larry I checked with our local dealer he said put a big pipe wrench on it,that it was just tight.I have tried a oil-field size wrench and a cheater with no luck,was wondering if it would hurt to heat it.

Re: 1850 hydraulic filter Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/11/2001 at 06:08:41 IP: 209.163.7.11

I'd be inclined to leave that alone and try to find a supplier who could furnish an in-line filter that will be able to operate with 2000-3000 lbs of pressure and be able to handle 20 - 30 gal. a minute flow. Larry............

1650 Diesel

Posted by Carl on 11/7/2001 at 07:44:12 IP: 199.150.177.187

I have a 1650 diesel that i was working on. Tractor was overheating and i figured the head gasket was blown. I took the head off, but the head gasket looked fine. The exhaust manifold ports were almost sooted shut. I took the head to the machine shop. They took out the injectors and had them tested. All six of the injectors were bad. I put in new injectors and put in back together and now it doesn't overheat. Have you heard of this before- bad injectors causing overheating?

Re: 1650 Diesel Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/8/2001 at 05:30:41 IP: 209.163.7.3

Yes, I've heard of that problem. Glad you found the problem and got your tractor going. Larry........

Oliver 77 governor

Posted by Bill on 11/3/2001 at 00:07:05 IP: 155.92.100.121

I am having problems with an Oliver 77 gas. When I accelerate to full throttle(2000rpm) pulling a light load the engine surges. The linkage was checked for distorsions. I have replaced both the thottle spring and bumper spring. The governor bushings are in good condition. The governor linkage has been adjusted as outlined in the IT shop manual. I am running out of ideas. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re: Oliver 77 governor Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/3/2001 at 05:28:30 IP: 209.163.7.99

Lengthen the throttle rod betweeen the carburator and the governor arm a turn or 2 and try that. It could be that you may need to put another washer behind the governor gear to bring the governor assembly forward slightly, which will enable you to better use your adjustment for the bumper spring. Larry..........

Re: Oliver 77 governor Posted by Bill on 11/9/2001 at 13:49:27 IP: 155.92.100.121

I kept lengthing the rod between the governor and carburator until it was about a quarter inch longer. Then readjusted the full throttle speed. It helps, but doesn't cure it. Does the governor shaft or spool wear or the spool and weight ends wear and cause the governor not to funtion properly? Or should I try lengthening the rod between the governor and carburator farther?

Re: Oliver 77 governor Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/9/2001 at 21:53:37 IP: 209.163.7.47

No, don't adjust the rod forward any further. I still think you need to put another thrust washer in there to move the governor assembly forward. Then adjust your linkage between the governor and the carburator as outlined in your IT Manual. This will allow the bumper spring to function more and you'll have to start all over with the adjustments on the bumper spring. Larry...

Re: Oliver 77 governor Posted by Bill on 11/25/2001 at 16:58:32 IP: 155.92.100.121

Thanks for the advise. I put in another thrust washer, just as you suggested, and it seems to work fine now. Thanks again.

550

Posted by Greg S. on 11/1/2001 at 11:55:05 IP: 65.224.246.177

Larry;

I have a 1961 550 gas that I just pulled out of the bushes! Doesn't run yet. Going through repair/replace on air, fuel, ignition parts right now. She ran great before being stranded. Been there 10 yrs and the rear wheels won't turn. Brake pedals are also stiff. Any suggestions?

Also noticed access plate for clutch is missing and packed full of soil. Dug out as much as I could. Since wheels don't rotate and there's a front loader on it I think separation is very near impossible. What would you suggest?? Thanks

Re: 550 Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/1/2001 at 19:22:33 IP: 209.163.7.69

I would guess that the brakes are froze - that's why the wheels won't turn. Take them apart and clean them up and get them working. Drain the water out of the transmission and rear end compartments. Try to get it running to see what you have. You might get lucky and you might have a disaster. You'll have to get the loader off of it. Let me know how you come out and we'll go from there. Larry.......

Super 88 Diesel Block

Posted by Dale G on 11/1/2001 at 08:19:46 IP: 63.168.203.67

I need a new block for my Super 88 Diesel.I Have been told the block was the same for gas or diesel and for 88 or Super 88 is that true? Thanks Larry!

Re: Super 88 Diesel Block Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/1/2001 at 19:17:14 IP: 209.163.7.69

Yes, both of those things are true. I have a block if you need one. Email or call us if you are interested. Larry...........

Super 55

Posted by Ryoung on 11/1/2001 at 06:56:33 IP: 207.144.127.149

I have my grandfather's old super 55. It runs good but 4th/2nd gear is bad and it has a bad place in the steering.

How much would it cost (ballpark) to have it fixed along with a clutch? Is the tractor worth putting that kind of money into? Thanks Ryoung

Re: Super 55 Posted by Larry Harsin on 11/1/2001 at 19:15:17 IP: 209.163.7.69

The S55 is one of the most desirable tractors in the Oliver line. I would reccommend that you repair it. It doesn't take long to spend $1000, but I'd repair it. I would say it is worth it, especially being your Grandfather's. Larry....

cab value

Posted by Stephen Coventry on 10/31/2001 at 17:45:35 IP: 216.175.43.142

I"am going to put a cab on my 1600 for winter use. A salvage yard has in fair condition for $250 . It has good glass , and is not beat up . Any help in this would be helpful. thank you stevet

Re: cab value Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/31/2001 at 21:38:13 IP: 209.163.7.17

That sounds reasonable to me. Larry.............

1650 head

Posted by Dale G on 10/30/2001 at 15:33:48 IP: 63.168.203.67

Larry,would you have a 1650 cyl head and if you do how much would you want? Thanks in advance!

Re: 1650 head Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/30/2001 at 21:00:58 IP: 209.163.7.81

No, I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Thanks for checking with me. Larry...........

Re: 1650 head Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/30/2001 at 21:04:35 IP: 209.163.7.81

I just thought after posting the last message......Paynesville Tractor & Parts 800-445-0061 is parting out a 1650. Check with them. Larry.............

Oliver 60 doesn't start

Posted by Geoff on 10/27/2001 at 20:18:12 IP: 128.242.4.59

I have an Oliver 60 that doesn't start no matter what I try. It has good compression, has good spark and is timed right, and the valves are adjusted right for the third time, and I'm sure it's getting gas. Yes there's gas in the tank. I just replaced the mains and rings, and gave it a valve job. What can I do?

Re: Oliver 60 doesn't start Posted by Don on 10/28/2001 at 08:19:45 IP: 152.163.207.193

Is the firing order set right? The valves may be set right but the spark plugs also have to fire in the right order. Don

Re: Oliver 60 doesn't start Posted by Geoff on 10/28/2001 at 09:40:12 IP: 128.242.4.59

Yes 1-2-4-3 is what the book says

Re: Oliver 60 doesn't start Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/30/2001 at 05:37:27 IP: 209.163.7.55

Get a horse!!! :-) I would take the carburator apart and make sure all the jets are open. Also check to see that the spring on the choke plate isn't broken. Those are 2 things that would make it hard to start. Larry..........

PTO hp question

Posted by Myron/KY on 10/26/2001 at 11:54:09 IP: 207.201.209.250

Hi Larry, I really enjoy your site. I looked through the archives for this question but did not see it.I'm sure it has been asked before. My IT manual states a warning, in the pto section, of models 17xx and above about limiting the load, of the 540 pto, to no more than 60 hp. Is there a weak link somewhere in the pto or am I misunderstanding the manual?

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/26/2001 at 22:06:02 IP: 209.163.7.55

I am not aware that that is in the manuals. I've not had a problem with running more than 60 hp on the PTO. I'd say you'd be safe to go to 90 hp if you use caution. Larry..........

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Myron/KY on 10/27/2001 at 16:07:07 IP: 65.141.1.60

Thanks Larry. I thought it was strange to put a 60 hp limit on the PTO. FYI: This warning was found in the IT 0-202 Oliver Service Manual, the 1750-1800-1850-1900-1950-1950T section, page 131. Also in the 1755-1855-1955 section on page53.

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Jim B. on 10/27/2001 at 22:50:44 IP: 134.161.13.145

Is the warning about the pto horse power related to the torque capacity of the standard 540 output shaft? I recall reading in a S99 Detroit manual that the pto output shaft was larger on these.This being before the 1000 rpm pto was available.

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Jim B. on 10/28/2001 at 06:40:58 IP: 134.161.13.145

Sorry about inserting my earlier reply before everyone! I thought it would just automatically go to the bottom. I'll know better next time. Sincerely, Jim Bailey. P.S. great website Larry, very informative and well done.

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Don on 10/28/2001 at 08:16:42 IP: 152.163.207.193

I have a 1755, and I take the warning to mean that you shouldn't use implements that are rated below 60 hp, and I've never had any problems. Don

Re: PTO hp question Posted by Myron/KY on 10/29/2001 at 07:20:12 IP: 207.201.209.250

You may be on to something there Jim B. This "IT" manual never explains why. Now that I have the manual in front of me, here is the actual wording "NOTE: Use of the 540 rpm pto must be limited to not more than 60 horsepower." Anyway this doesn't seem to be a real problem. I was just curious.

year model of a 770

Posted by kraig on 10/26/2001 at 10:33:58 IP: 216.134.3.42

How can I identify the year model of a 770? The plate with the information is missing. Are there any casting numbers on the engine block or trans that could be helpful. The front grill is also missing. The finders are the rounded type but they do not extend over the top of the tire like the pictures I have seen. This tractor was owned by the state of Texas. I was told by some locals that this is the reason for the type of finders. this is a row crop tractor. The only year I have found on is on the top of the radiator and its 1964. thanks in advance. Kraig

Re: year model of a 770 Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/26/2001 at 22:03:20 IP: 209.163.7.55

If that tractor is equipped with a generator, it was built before 1963. If it is equipped with a factory alternator, it was built after 1963. If you remove the thermostat housing from the head and clean the area where the housing sits, the date the engine was built is stamped on that flat surface. Larry......

Re: year model of a 770 Posted by on 10/28/2001 at 19:19:51 IP: 216.134.3.42

Larry, Thank You!!!!! Kraig

880 transmission

Posted by Mike on 10/25/2001 at 21:16:55 IP: 172.150.168.180

Hi Larry- I wrote awhile back about 880 Hydraulics that didn't seem to have enough pressure. I had the relief valve seat put back in with a heli-coil. I finally came up with a good base with a good seat so now I'm going to replace it. While I have the hydraulic unit off I would like to fix a problem in the transmission. It is very hard to shift from high neutral (3,4,&6) to low neutral. You just can not find the right spot to pull the gearshift down to low. It goes from low to high just fine. It is an early 880 with a spur gear transmission. Thanks--Mike

Re: 880 transmission Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/26/2001 at 05:44:17 IP: 209.163.7.73

You have a worn poppet block. You'll have to either replace it or grind a little off the center shift rail where it starts to push the ball up into that block. The poppet block is worn so that that ball wedges. Larry..........

Super 88 Diesel cooling system

Posted by Dale G on 10/24/2001 at 07:43:21 IP: 63.168.203.67

On my Super 88 Diesel the engine temp would come up but the lower radiator hose would still be cold so I put in a new thermostat and it seemed to help a little but the water in the radiator is still a lot cooler than in the engine.It will also blow water out the overflow tube till the water level in the radiator is 3 inches below the neck.One other question I have,it does have some blow by but I don't know what is normal for that engine? Thanks for any ideas you might have. Thank You Dale

Re: Super 88 Diesel cooling system Posted by Don on 10/25/2001 at 09:18:25 IP: 64.12.102.171

Sounds like your radiator may be plugged. take it in to get cleaned out and that should do it. Also wouldn't hurt to flush the system while you have the radiator out. Don

Re: Super 88 Diesel cooling system Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/25/2001 at 20:30:43 IP: 209.163.7.72

Flushing the radiator is a good place to start. Try that first and if that doesn't solve the problem, you are probably getting compression into the radiator. With the engine running, observe and see if there are bubbles coming up in the radiator, if there are, you will need to remove the cylinder head and determine where the compression leak is. It could be the head gasket or it could be a cracked sleeve or a cracked cylinder head. Larry.......

550 Generator

Posted by Dennis on 10/23/2001 at 20:53:15 IP: 209.248.7.70

Larry i have an Oliver 550 Diesel. Just replaced the wiring harness, Batteries (2-6VOLT),and all switches. I wired it according to the wiring diagram, but can't seem to get the lights to work. I check the bulbs and they are good. Whats the best way to check the generator to see if its working properly? And do they get there power from the generator? It is a 12 volt system with two 6 volt batteries. Also could you tell me what year and what horse power this is? id #45-0057and serial#81093-519 THANKS

Re: 550 Generator Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/23/2001 at 23:23:39 IP: 209.163.7.67

You will need to check the yellow wire that comes from the regulator. It goes to the light switch and it needs to be hot. I think there is a fuse in that wire. Either in the wire or on the light switch. Or in that area there is a fuse block which I think will be shown on the wiring diagram. There may be a bad fuse in this fuse block. Your tractor was built in 1959 and has about 40 horse power. Larry............

Re: 550 Generator Posted by Don on 10/25/2001 at 09:15:06 IP: 64.12.102.171

When you put 2 6-volt batteries together, it doesn't make it the equivilant of a 12-volt, it just doubles the cranking amps. That right there may be part of the problem. The bulbs may not be getting enough juice to light them all at once. try it with a 12-volt battery in it. dont go out and buy one right away, just borrow one out of a car to check and see if that does it.

1550 dist.

Posted by C .Shane on 10/23/2001 at 17:57:58 IP: 63.114.86.176

Larry,Genesee Products has a dist.that fits a 1650.they didnt know if the gear drive is the same as a 1550.can you help me with this?thank you,Shane

Re: 1550 dist. Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/23/2001 at 23:13:29 IP: 209.163.7.67

They are identical. Same distributor and everything. You are hooked up if you can get one for a 1650. Larry...............

Hydra-drive

Posted by Siegfried Wutte on 10/23/2001 at 08:08:32 IP: 205.188.201.194

The Hydra-drive in my 1850 Oliver is leaking and therfore stoped working. Can I still use the tractor without damaging it? My understanding is that the Hydra-drive is a hydraulic clutch and therefore lack of oil will not damage it. I would need it for a month work before I can repair it. Siegfried

Re: Hydra-drive Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/23/2001 at 23:11:42 IP: 209.163.7.67

You must keep oil in it or you will ruin it. If you keep adding oil and keep oil in it you can use it. Larry.............

70 head gasket

Posted by Chad on 10/22/2001 at 19:25:38 IP: 208.31.75.146

While plowing with my 1944 Oliver 70, it overheated and water started coming out of the overflow tube. When I looked I noticed oil was leaking out of the head gasket, valve cover and dipstick tube. Does this sound like a blown head gasket? I have no compression on the #6 cylinder. I haven't taken it apart yet, but will get to it this week. If this is the problem, where could I get a head gasket? Also, do you think it could be a cracked head or block? Thanks, Chad

Re: 70 head gasket Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/22/2001 at 21:03:09 IP: 209.163.7.63

You are just going to have to tear it down and see what happened. If you don't have any compression on the #6 piston, you probably have a broken piston ring or a scored piston or something there. You can still get a head gasket for it. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry.....

Oliver1850 pistons

Posted by DEwayne on 10/22/2001 at 18:22:50 IP: 205.188.198.53

Larry, can you tell me what the compression height and piston pin dia. would be on the Oliver 1850 with the 3-7/8 in. piston? Is the compression height figured from the center of the piston pin? Thanks for your help, DeWayne

Re: Oliver1850 pistons Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/22/2001 at 21:05:13 IP: 209.163.7.63

DeWayne. I will have to research this in my service manual and get back to you. I may not have time to do it tomorrow. Larry...........

1605 Carb

Posted by Juder on 10/21/2001 at 17:21:35 IP: 152.163.197.73

How and what is the proper carb adjusrment on 1650? Two adjusting screws, one smaller closest to intake, larger screw then a little lower. This carb is on 88 gas tractor.

Re: 1605 Carb Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/22/2001 at 04:58:46 IP: 209.163.7.32

The screw closest to the manifold is the idle mixture adjustment. The other adjustment is the load adjustment. On the load adjustment you'll have to set it when the engine is on a load at full throttle. When you put a 1650 carb on an 88, you'll have to adjust it by trial and error. To start out initially, I would go with about 2 and a half turns on the load adjustment and about 1 turn on the idle adjustment. Larry..........

Re: 1605 Carb Posted by Juder on 10/22/2001 at 09:28:36 IP: 198.7.197.181

Thank you , I will try this and let you know.

Super 55/550 diesel engine

Posted by Mark on 10/18/2001 at 20:20:21 IP: 216.93.69.201

Larry, I am looking for a Super 55 or (preferably) 550 diesel engine complete. Can be blown up, as I have a good block. What should I expect to pay for something like that, if I can find one? An engine with a blown block would be preferable. Thanks!

Re: Super 55/550 diesel engine Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/19/2001 at 06:35:52 IP: 209.163.7.16

Contact Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332 or Tim Smith at 330-832-9792. It's best to call Tim in the evenings. Larry...........

Re: Super 55/550 diesel engine Posted by Mark on 10/19/2001 at 06:47:32 IP: 63.65.244.200

Thanks Larry, I'll give them a call.

1550 distributor

Posted by C.Shane on 10/18/2001 at 08:51:17 IP: 63.114.86.230

i have a 1550 with a cracked cap.went to agco and the cap was $46.00.the dealer told me he cant get any parts to even rebuild a Holly distributor.he said a Delco wouldnt fit.what are my options?thank you,C.Shane

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/18/2001 at 18:48:30 IP: 209.163.7.21

Try NAPA for a distributor cap. They should have one and it won't be nearly as expensive. The other option is to go to AGCO and get a Mallory Distributor to replace the whole thing. It will be around $300. But you may be able to repair your's with parts from NAPA. Larry........

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by John on 10/19/2001 at 05:42:09 IP: 165.170.128.65

Had same type problem with 1650 gas. Plastic/nylon parts inside worn and loose. Couldn't keep point gap constant. Cured the whole problem with an electronic ignition kit from Genessee Products. Works great.

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/19/2001 at 06:32:24 IP: 209.163.7.16

That is very nice to know. How do you contact that company to get the Genessee ignition kit? Larry.......

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by randy dodson on 10/19/2001 at 11:11:11 IP: 63.89.2.100

larry, try this. http://www.geneseeproducts.com/

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/19/2001 at 17:35:51 IP: 209.163.7.68

Hey, thanks! Why didn't we think of that????? Larry..............

Re: 1550 distributor Posted by C.Shane on 10/20/2001 at 10:26:43 IP: 63.114.86.200

thank you all very much for the info.take care,Shane

Super 88 Trans plate

Posted by Dale G on 10/17/2001 at 07:35:19 IP: 63.168.203.67

I am setting up my Super 88 Diesel to pull.I am taking the hydraulics off and I wondered if you would have the plate that goes over the tranny for a tractor that had no hydraulics. Thanks, Dale

Re: Super 88 Trans plate Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/18/2001 at 04:47:28 IP: 209.163.7.82

Contact Korves Bros. at korvesoliver.com or their website at korves@htc.net. They have aluminum lids. Larry............

Re: Super 88 Trans plate Posted by Dale G on 10/18/2001 at 07:41:33 IP: 63.168.203.67

Thanks Larry,Keep up the good work!

77 hydraulics

Posted by Randy Dodson on 10/15/2001 at 05:42:28 IP: 63.89.2.100

Larry, my 3-point hitch on my 77 won't hold an implement up while the tractor is running.

i mean -- it will lift it, but it slowly creeps back toward hte ground. anything i lift with it (most recently a 2-disc plow) will be back on the ground within 5 minutes.

i can't see any fluid leaks.

any suggestions on trouble-shooting this?

Re: 77 hydraulics Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/15/2001 at 19:55:48 IP: 209.163.7.45

Hi Randy! Reverse the hoses going to the cylinders on the hydraulic. Then, if they don't settle, the problem is in the hydraulic control valve. However, if the hitch still settles, I would guess that one of the cylinders has internal leakage. Larry........

Re: 77 hydraulics Posted by Cowboy Bill Watts on 10/16/2001 at 06:51:17 IP: 63.89.2.100

larry, do you have a hydraulic control valve? how much for part and shipping? .......tell the missus we said "hey"!!

larry, that was me up above...

Posted by Randy Dodson on 10/16/2001 at 06:52:38 IP: 63.89.2.100

as Cowboy Bill Watts.

Re: larry, that was me up above... Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/16/2001 at 20:01:17 IP: 209.163.7.19

Hey, Cowboy Randy!! Send me your control valve and I will attempt to repair it. If I can't, I'll send you another one that will work. When you get in there, you may just find a bad "O" ring where the valve bolts down to the base plate. The Missus says "Back at ya!!" Larry.....

forgive my ignorance

Posted by Randy Dodson on 10/17/2001 at 10:44:10 IP: 63.89.2.100

do i just take the whole unit off the tractor, or what?

Re: forgive my ignorance Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/18/2001 at 04:43:53 IP: 209.163.7.82

No. First drain the oil out of the hydraulic. Then remove the 4 cap screws that hold the lid onto the reservoir. Remove the lid with the levers. Remove the reservoir housing - this is held by 3/8 by 1 and 1/4" cap screws - now you can remove the reservoir housing with the filter from the tractor. Now you will see four 3/8 by approx. 4 inch cap screws that secure the valve body to the face plate. Remove those and as you lift off the valve body, observe the condition of the 4 "O" rings in the base plate. This might be where the problem is. Otherwise, send the valve body to me for repair. Larry.

1650 year of manufacture

Posted by joe wyka on 10/14/2001 at 15:54:12 IP: 168.191.30.149

Hi, I'm looking for the year my 1650 was made. Model #: 265-21629 Serial #: 189761-452 Any help will be appreciated. Thanks! Joe

Re: 1650 year of manufacture Posted by on 10/14/2001 at 18:38:16 IP: 209.163.7.71

Your 1650 was built in 1967. Larry...............

Re: 1650 year of manufacture Posted by Joe on 10/16/2001 at 06:41:32 IP: 208.178.123.113

Larry, Thanks so much for your time. I am just getting into farming, and I am having a great time with our 1650. This web site will be very helpful to me, and I appreciate your time to answer my question. Best wishes, and God Bless! Joe

front bucket loader

Posted by gary hargrave on 10/11/2001 at 11:13:21 IP: 209.2.155.60

i,m looking for info. for a arps loader model #B21-2 ser.1149 . the loader was purchased at an aution with a White 44 tractor but does not have the lift cyclindars. any help would be appreciated. thank you

Re: front bucket loader Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/11/2001 at 21:15:51 IP: 209.163.7.82

Your tractor is a White 2-44 tractor. It is the same thing as a 550 Industrial. I would try to find the Arps Co. and check with them. Possibly your White Dealer could steer you to them. You might learn something about them from the Farm Industry News magazine. We have discarded our current issue, so I don't have a phone number. Larry......

Oliver Engine Parts

Posted by Shep on 10/10/2001 at 18:45:17 IP: 63.16.7.168

Larry and Others, I have recently repowered an 1855 and a 1850 and have the engines that came out of them left and am wanting to part them out. I have a 354ci Perkins Diesel that blew up that I have a few good parts left, the block and crankshaft are trashed but I have the head flywheel and other parts. I also have a later model 310ci Waukesha Diesel that was running when I took it out, but had busted an O-ring on the #6 sleeve and was putting water in the oil. This engine was overhauled about 400 hrs ago with all the updates put in. Has a reworked head, good crank, good block with a built in oil cooler and many other good parts. Let me know if you need any parts off these engines and I will be glad to help you. Thanks

Re: Oliver Engine Parts Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/11/2001 at 05:35:55 IP: 209.163.7.99

Shep. We have a friend who might be interested in a complete 310 engine. Email your phone number to us and we'll have him call you. Larry.........

550 Diesel

Posted by on 10/9/2001 at 11:39:46 IP: 209.248.7.23

Larry i ahve an exrtra head , crank and cam for a 550 Diesel. I thought I might sell them any ideas what they might be worth? The head had the following numbers that are cast into it 181 402 and Il-180D. It also has these numbers stamped into it. 106-757-AS : 1965. Any idea what these are?

Re: 550 Diesel Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/9/2001 at 19:52:59 IP: 209.163.7.36

The head is probably worth $150, the crank probably $100 and probably $50 for the cam shaft. This is my guess. 181 402 is the Waukesha part number. 1L-180D is the Oliver casting part number. 106-757-AS is the Oliver Assembly Number/the number of the completed head. 1965 is probably the year the part was made. Larry........

1510 Oliver Loader

Posted by John on 10/8/2001 at 20:44:44 IP: 4.41.185.239

I recently purchased a 1256 tractor with a 1510 loader. It worked great for several hours. One day with the bucket up and loaded I noticed a wet spot on the hood, I believe that some hyd. fluid sprayed from the left cylinder. I believe that the left cylinder may not be working or working as well as the left. Since then the tilt on the bucket hesitates and engages slowly. When tilting the bucket it jerks, not a easy fluid motion. I think there may be air in the hyd. lines, it appears full.

Re: 1510 Oliver Loader Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/9/2001 at 04:47:16 IP: 209.163.7.51

You will probably have to take the left cylinder apart. It probably needs new packings or a seal. Larry................

550 gas

Posted by Dennis on 10/6/2001 at 19:30:20 IP: 207.172.217.49

Dear Larry, I have a 550 that runs out very well but , the problem I,m having is that the pto drive does not engage . What I,m tring to say is that the shaft turns but can be stoped with your hand . Do you have any diagrams of a breakdown or a manual to help guide me through this problem. Many thanks Dennis

Re: 550 gas Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/7/2001 at 04:54:18 IP: 209.163.7.10

Dennis. For an Operator's Manual and/or a Service Manual, contact Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Hdq. at hpocacc@fiai.net. It sounds like you have a PTO clutch out of adjustment. Larry.........

1550 HEAD

Posted by Rich on 10/4/2001 at 19:45:38 IP: 209.154.159.225

Is there any significant difference between a 1550 head a 770 head and a Super 77 head? I am rebuilding my S77 and would like to develop more power. Do you have any 1550 or 770 head, intake or other parts that would help? Thanks Rich

Re: 1550 HEAD Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/4/2001 at 20:25:04 IP: 209.163.7.6

You can put a 1550 head on a S77 or a 770. There is very little difference. The valves all interchange from S77 through 1550 gas. I have a 770 head. It is complete with intake and exhaust valves reconditioned and all ready to install. I want $500 plus shipping. If you are interested in this, email me. Larry.........

Oliver 720 Baler

Posted by ShepFL on 10/4/2001 at 11:33:54 IP: 38.192.251.39

Buddy of mine told me where there is an Oliver 720 baler? sitting in MN. Claims it has been there for quite some time. Is this baler worth pursuing? Would be used to bale hay for the neighbors. I have not been able to locate any information on it. I am concerned about parts availability etc. Thanks.

Re: Oliver 720 Baler Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/4/2001 at 20:18:55 IP: 209.163.7.6

I would guess parts availability is tough. Talk to Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224 and see what he says about that. Larry.............

Oliver 77 Piston and Sleeve Kit

Posted by Rich on 10/3/2001 at 09:51:24 IP: 209.154.159.225

I am looking for a 3-3/4" piston and sleeve kit for our Oliver 77 gas tractor, would you have a good used set or new set?

Re: Oliver 77 Piston and Sleeve Kit Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/4/2001 at 06:27:38 IP: 209.163.7.40

I have a nice set of sleeves and pistons: M & W 3 9/16 bore with dome top pistons. I want $200 plus shipping. A 3 3/4" piston is for an 88. Most 77's are 3 1/2 inch bore. Larry.........

Re: Oliver 77 Piston and Sleeve Kit Posted by Rich on 10/4/2001 at 08:18:06 IP: 209.154.159.225

Larry I am confused, I have been told by Korves and Steinbach that the 3-3/4" sets are available and OK to use on a gas 77. Regards Rich

Re: Oliver 77 Piston and Sleeve Kit Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/4/2001 at 20:16:09 IP: 209.163.7.6

If they have them for a 77, o.k. but I wouldn't put them in a 77. Larry..............

550 Diesel

Posted by Dennis on 10/2/2001 at 22:08:10 IP: 209.248.7.28

Larry I finally got my 550 running !!! But, it seems like its hard to start. What size battery should i have in it? I put a 525 cold cranking amps but it seems to get slugish before it starts. maybe timing off a hair? If so whats the best way to adjust it?

Re: 550 Diesel Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/3/2001 at 05:45:52 IP: 209.163.7.94

Dennis. I don't think the 525 cranking amps is a big enough battery. You need a bigger battery. Get a Diesel Starting battery. The 525 is like a 12 volt car battery. If you need to adjust the timing, I would reccommend that you get a shop manual from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. That will also give you the specs. about the batteries. You may need to have the starter checked to see if its up to snuff. That may be part of the problem too. Larry.....

1850 gas overheating

Posted by Mike Thomas on 10/1/2001 at 11:26:42 IP: 216.54.147.45

I have an 1850 gas that overheats withing minutes of start-up. Have replaced the thermostat and water pump. Also removed the head and had it cleaned-out and removed the radiator and cleaned it out. One person indicated they thought there was a conversion kit required for changing the thermostat. Any thoughts? thanks

Re: 1850 gas overheating Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/1/2001 at 21:32:17 IP: 209.163.7.18

Mike. First of all, I'm not aware of any conversion kits. I don't know what to say might be wrong to make the 1850 overheat. It sounds like you have all the bases covered and have done all the obvious things. Larry........

Re: 1850 gas overheating Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/1/2001 at 21:40:40 IP: 209.163.7.18

Mike. After my post, I happened to think: There's a little steel by-pass line, that is approx. 4 or 5 inches long, that runs from the thermostat housing to the water pump. Check and make sure it is not plugged. Larry.........

1800 oliver series A

Posted by David Feickert on 9/27/2001 at 20:31:25 IP: 64.68.174.213

I am in need of a cyl. head for 1800A diesel tractor. Do you have one or do you know of some one that does? Please E-MAIL me and let me know if you have one and what you want for it.

Re: 1800 oliver series A Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/28/2001 at 05:21:38 IP: 209.163.7.71

Your email address does not come through with these messages unless you type it into your message. I don't have the cyl. head you need. Check with Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276 or with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. at 800-320-6224. Larry.........

Super 55 transmission

Posted by kurt Braun on 9/27/2001 at 09:05:41 IP: 155.82.145.253

Larry, I have a super 55 diesel with a locked up transmission. I cannot get it unlocked with out taking off the large cover and fiddling with the shifing rods, get it loose and it locks up again. What do I need to be looking for? Thanks for the help Kurt Braun

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by MN Mike on 9/28/2001 at 18:36:05 IP: 208.2.71.2

When mine did that, I had a broken shifting fork. Not a real bad fix, if you have a skyhook for that big heavy casting.

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/29/2001 at 05:41:22 IP: 209.163.7.24

Look for a bent shifting fork or broken parts. Check for loose set screws where the forks are mounted on the shift rods. Check the poppit balls and springs. You could have a bent shifting rail. Check to see that the gears and the mounting collars on the transmission shafts are all tight and don't have play in them. Larry......

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Kurt braun on 10/1/2001 at 05:34:56 IP: 155.82.145.253

Mike I took that large casting off and every thing seamed fine, nothing broken, just alot of slop in the bearings. I got the thing loose and got everything going again. I think I will have to rebuild the transmission. I would like to find the bearing numbers, and get them from the local bearing guy. any sugestion ?thanks Kurt

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Kurt Braun on 10/1/2001 at 06:00:27 IP: 155.82.145.253

Larry, I took the casting off and there is a lot of slop in the gears. I did break it loose , but dont dare try to shift for fear of locking up again. I think I need to rebuild the transmission, new collars and bearings, and maybe seals , and while I am at it I need to do the PTO at the same time. Is there a kit available to do this and If so how much? I will have to split the tractor to do this , any other recomendations on other things to do while I have it apart? Thanks Kurt Braun

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/1/2001 at 21:25:07 IP: 209.163.7.18

Kurt. I know of no kits for this. I think you will just have to buy the individual parts. You'll just have to see what you find when you get it apart. Larry........

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Kurt Braun on 10/2/2001 at 05:41:47 IP: 155.82.145.253

Thanks Larry, where would be a good place to get parts, phone #'s ETC. Kurt Braun

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Larry Harsin on 10/2/2001 at 06:03:37 IP: 209.163.7.62

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry...............

Re: Super 55 transmission Posted by Kurt Braun on 10/2/2001 at 07:23:01 IP: 155.82.145.253

Thanks Larry I will give Tom a call. Kurt

RC88 oil pressure

Posted by Ron on 9/27/2001 at 04:56:55 IP: 63.96.81.126

What should the oil pressure be at idle and running speed for a 1949 RC 88? I am thinking about changing over to Detergent oil do you recommend this and what weight? What fluids do you recommend for the Hydraulic system and the Transmission / Pto? When shifting from neutral to about any gear It is hard to shift and I get a grinding noise when it does engage any ideas? It may be a little worse in lower gears. The strange thing is that it only does this about 30% of the time not always. All ?'s are for a 1949 RC88 Thanks for the help, Great website.

Re: RC88 oil pressure Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/27/2001 at 05:12:21 IP: 209.163.7.71

At running speed, the oil pressure is 12 - 18 lbs. Idle speed on an old engine like that, it could get down to as low as 5 lbs. I would not change that engine to detergent oil. You are liable to have trouble with it. I recommend 20 wt. non-foaming hydraulic oil for the hydraulic --- 80-90 for the transmission/pto. About your gears, you probably have a sticky pilot bearing in the flywheel. Larry..........

Re: RC88 oil pressure Posted by Ron on 9/27/2001 at 12:57:01 IP: 63.96.81.126

Thanks for the answers. I have had the valve cover and oil pan off and everything looks clean. Why would it be a bad idea to switch to a detergent oil. I bought the tractor at a sale and do not know the history on it. I have used non-detergent oil in it for 2 years probably around 200 hrs on it.

Re: RC88 oil pressure Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/29/2001 at 05:45:49 IP: 209.163.7.24

If it looks clean inside, it might be o.k. to go ahead and use it. But if it isn't clean, it might break some sludge deposits loose and plug up some screens etc. But then if your non-detergent oil is keeping it clean, you don't need to switch to detergent oil. Larry.........

1650 three point

Posted by BRUCE BRANDT on 9/26/2001 at 20:20:22 IP: 209.184.230.73

LARRY, GREETINGS FROM OKLAHOMA. I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP WITH MY 3 PT. PROBLEM!! AS USUAL THE PROBLEM WAS THE PIPE ELBOW HOLDING THE RELIEF VALVE. ONCE WE GOT IT TORE DOWN THE VALVE CAME ROLLING OUT. ONE CALL TO TOM AT O'BRIENS AND THE PARTS WERE HERE THE NEXT DAY. I MUST ADD THAT TOM WAS A REAL PLEASURE TO DEAL WITH. HE TOOK MY ORDER AND THEN MADE SURE I HAD EVERYTHING I NEEDED TO COMPLETE THE REPAIR, OF COURSE I DIDN'T THINK ABOUT O-RINGS,GASKETS,AND THAT TYPE OF STUFF, JUST NOT MY LINE OF WORK. THE REPAIR SHOULD BE DONE IN THE MORNING,AM LOOKING FORWARD TO DRIVING THE OLD OLLIE HOME ON A SUNNY AFTERNOON, BRINGS BACK MANY MEMORIES!! THANKS AGAIN BRUCE

P.S. A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO SANDY SHE MENTIONED THAT SHE WAS THE COMPUTER TECH AND ADVISOR. GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

Re: 1650 three point Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/27/2001 at 05:02:52 IP: 209.163.7.71

Bruce. Thanks for the report. That makes it all worthwhile. We sure enjoy helping Oliver Friends. Stop in when you are in Iowa Larry and Sandy...........

Oliver Paint

Posted by David Wells on 9/24/2001 at 21:29:28 IP: 161.184.17.214

Is there a source of paint for my 770 in the correct colours? Thanks David

Re: Oliver Paint Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/25/2001 at 05:33:17 IP: 209.163.7.13

Yes, you can get it from AGCO. Larry............

Re: Oliver Paint Posted by David Wells on 9/25/2001 at 09:06:22 IP: 161.184.23.131

Thanks Again David

Oliver 770 oil levels

Posted by David Wells on 9/24/2001 at 21:20:19 IP: 161.184.17.214

I would appreciate it if you could point me in the right direction to check the oil level in the transmission. The only obvious level site I have found is back by the PTO. Is there another. Do the transmission and final drive share the same oil? What oil(s) is recommended. Thanks David

Re: Oliver 770 oil levels Posted by Larry Hasin on 9/25/2001 at 05:31:57 IP: 209.163.7.13

The oil level check plug for the 770 is on the right side of the transmission housing just ahead of the right hand brake. It is a 1/2 inch pipe plug. That covers both the transmission and differential levels. If the tractor does not have power booster, I reccommend 80-90 transmission grease or if it is equipped with power booster, I reccommend Mobil-Trans HD 50 oil. Larry..

Re: Oliver 770 oil levels Posted by David Wells on 9/25/2001 at 09:07:05 IP: 161.184.23.131

Thanks for your help. David

Oliver 1250 Tractor

Posted by Art Torres on 9/24/2001 at 19:26:59 IP: 63.16.72.45

A friend has purchased an Oliver 1250 tractor second-hand and has no information on it at all. If you could send any websites to visit to give horsepower,3 point hitch and anything else you may think will help. Thank you.

Re: Oliver 1250 Tractor Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/25/2001 at 05:20:56 IP: 209.163.7.13

The first thing he should do is get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Hdq.: hpocacc@fiai.net. It will answer many of his questions. Larry.........

Oliver Transfer Case on MFD

Posted by Erik on 9/19/2001 at 19:44:39 IP: 206.72.16.3

I have an Oliver 2150 with MFD. For the 3rd time in 4 years, rear end lube is leaking through into the transfer case and pushing out the breather hole to the tune of a small stream. I understand that the seals meant to hold the rear end lube out of the transfer case are out, however what could be causing this on an annual basis approx. every 200 hrs? Did Oliver or White have problems with this? I like the tractor except for this and I am wondering what the drawbacks would be if I took out the breather and capped the breather hole? Would that just push the seals out where the transfer case meets the rear end? Any help would be appreciated

Re: Oliver Transfer Case on MFD Posted by Larry Harsin on 9/19/2001 at 20:15:50 IP: 209.163.7.67

I havn't experienced the problem you are talking about. I guess I'd try your idea and see what happens. It seems that they may have had a problem with this. Get in touch with the Shop Foreman at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to help you. Larry.........


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