1850 questions

IP: 207.162.163.19 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 10:25:00 PM by tommy

I am about ready to try to start my1850 that we have rebuilt and need to know how you handle the fuel while you set the valves. I know their isn't enought clearence below the tank to remove and replace the valve cover and was wondering if held the tank up and used a flexable hose from the tank or use a small temperary tank. Also are the brake seals removable from the outside? Sorry to here you are selling out your equipment. There doesn't seem to be much future for independent family farmers. There is always something to knock us down now it is mad cow. Thanks for all your help. TC

Re(1): 1850 questions

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 11:35:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I just pull the tank up and set them. I don't set them with the engine running. It is o.k. to do it that way though. I suppose you could use the flexable hose. I'll check the shop manual in the morning for your question on the brakes. I think you can remove them from the outside. We are keeping all of the Oliver/hobby things to keep us busy in retirement. Yes, this mad cow thing is a terrible thing to have happened. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 216.158.85.15 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 09:40:18 AM by Bob

I am considering pulling an Oliver 88 in the Ohio State Antique Tractor Pullers Assc. pulls. The rules say no 7 main blocks,can you tell me what they are talking about? Also could you tell me what series tractors engine blocks would be considered a replacement engine for the 88? Thanks Bob

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 68.155.6.194 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 07:15:11 PM by George Steadman

A very limiting rule. The seven main rule is to eliminate the 310 motor found in the 1850 gas version. It also dq's the motor in 1650 later model thru the 1955. I would think your best bet would be an 1100 MF gas or 195GK waukeshau the 880 or 1600 or the 1800 A and B series Not sure about the C series I think the gas is legal but the dsl is a 7 main. Some one else can fill in my gaps.

Re(2): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 11:29:01 PM by Larry Harsin

All the 1800 series engines are 7 main bearings, gas or diesel. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 88

IP: 216.158.85.101 Posted on December 31, 2003 at 10:44:14 PM by Bob

Thanks for the replies. Is my understanding that the other engines can be used as replacement engines correct? Bob

Re(4): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.248.143 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 01:43:58 AM by Larry Harsin

A 1650 gas engine would work or a S99 6 cylinder gas would be the largest displacement for you. The S99 6 cylinder is a 302 cu. in. I don't know what you mean by "the other engines". Larry

batteries

IP: 67.104.223.88 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 11:10:37 PM by Jim

Does 1850 diesel require two batteries? If so where is second one located? Have 880 with battery hooked up positive to ground. How can this be? Thanks

Re(1): batteries

IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 07:12:50 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1850's were negative ground. The 1850 gas had one battery, the 1850 diesel had two. One battery was below the left step, the other battery was behind the fuel tank. The 880's were positive ground. They were built this way and had generators. Larry

1855 cab

IP: 67.72.182.146 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 09:49:06 PM by john bedwell

larry, im looking for a cab for an 1855,do you have anything? have looked at the one at obrien co. by photo, but was hoping for a hiniker cab if possible

Re(1): 1855 cab

IP: 67.2.248.233 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 10:13:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Worthington Tractor Salvage. They had one. 800-533-5304. Larry

880 help

IP: 64.251.140.162 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 10:13:02 PM by Luther

Hi Larry, hope you and yours had a good Christmas. Some time back I asked you about switching injector pumps from the Bosch to a Roosa-master. I've made the switch and the tractor is running worse than before.This pump is supposed to be in good shape. The most h.p. I could get from the Bosch was 45 with alot of smoke and fire. That's with the screw all the way in. The Roosa-master seems to be putting out alot less than that with no smoke. The powercells are fine and the injectors were rebuilt. It revs real slow like it's way out of time and that's been adressed also.It revved slow with the Bosch pump, too. My question is, is it possible the shop that rebuilt the tips put in the wrong tip? I'm going to pull one and have it tested for spray pattern and pressure. Is there something else I'm overlooking? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): 880 help

IP: 67.2.248.192 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 07:41:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Have you checked your cam shaft timing? Have you checked out your air system. Is your engine able to get enough air? Has this engine been apart so that you know the condition of the sleeves, pistons and rings? Larry

Re(2): 880 help

IP: 64.251.141.152 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 08:06:37 PM by Luther

Larry, the camshaft timing is correct. It runs the same with the air cleaner off and the filters have been changed. The motor has fifty hours on a total overhaul. When I bought the tractor it had a spun rod bearing, so while we had it apart we went ahead and put sleeves, pistons,rings,and new rod and mains. The rods were reworked also. The cam was alright. The head was reworked with some welding done to it. The injector tips were also put in new. We checked one of those today and it worked just fine. It seems like it's not getting enough fuel. It will also rev only to about 1600 r.p.m., and it's slow to get there. At that speed, it's blowing alot of blue smoke out. With the Bosch pump I could get 45 h.p. with alot of smoke. It was slow to rev then also, but not half as bad as now. We're starting to think it's the governor, or something in that area of the pump. I think tomorrow evening we're going to do some resetting in this area, the mechanic that rebuilt the pump is going to pressure test it and see what he can adjust on the governor. I'll let you know more in a few days, I don't know much on adjusting except for giving it more fuel. As usual thanks so much for any help you give, if it doesn't get better we'll recheck the camshaft timing. Thanks again!

Re(3): 880 help

IP: 64.251.142.161 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 10:11:07 PM by luther

Hi Larry. Well we reset the roller to roller in the pump and that helped alot but she's still kinda slow to rev and we can only get 2000 r.p.m.'s. Better than last night! Fuel pressure was o.k. The mechanic is going to call one of his injector pump rebuilders tomorrow to see what they think. I think we'll get her to perk up soon! Thanks so much!

Re(3): 880 help

IP: 67.2.248.233 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 10:11:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe you are on the right track. Larry

550's

IP: 206.74.182.155 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 00:28:30 AM by Plowboy

Should a 550 gas have more power than a 550 diesel? Thanks.

Re(1): 550's

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 04:09:41 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are about the same. Larry

Belt pully

IP: 216.37.132.71 Posted on December 25, 2003 at 03:56:57 PM by Greg Salvatore

I have ben trying to find a belt pully for my 88 .I need the pully to run a Mcormic and Deering chopper blower .Ith has a flat flange mount with 4 bolts do you have one or could you find one .Do you have any side panels for a 88 all 4 of them are missing on my trctor? How much is a oliver 406 feed grimder worth ?in grate shape runs and works good.And a 520 baler for parts? Thanks Greg Salvatore

Re(1): Belt pully

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on December 25, 2003 at 05:34:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a belt pulley for $50 plus shipping. For side panels, call Richard Lynch in Ohio for reproductions. 937-456-6686. I don't know the value of the feed grinder - I would guess $200 - $300. I don't know about the baler either. If someone wants one, it is worth something. Larry

Re(2): Belt pully

IP: 216.37.132.70 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 02:36:59 PM by Greg Salvatore

I am looking for brakes for my 88 but it has a bull pinion for band brakes but it has disk on it.It has 24 spline disks, how are the band brakes ?Are the bull pinion diffrent fron disk to band brakes ?are the center plates diffrent too?

Re(3): Belt pully

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 04:08:30 PM by Larry Harsin

You have the improved version of the proper brake. They are better than the band brakes. The center plates are different too. What you have is what you want. If you need new linings, contact Korves Brothers. Email: korvesoliver.com Tell them you need parts for the double disk brake. Larry

Re(4): Belt pully

IP: 199.224.87.4 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 05:47:30 PM by Gregory Salvatore

Larry the local agco dealer has found them for me and has a set coming .I hope they are the right ones .If not I will try Kroves brothers.About the belt pully do you acept personal checks ?thanks Greg

880 Hydraulics

IP: 209.103.234.24 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 04:28:41 AM by Jason

Larry, We have a loader on our 880, and the lift cylinders are pretty big, causing the hydraulic tank to run out of oil by the time the loader is even with the hood. We then have to add oil to the tank to get it to come down. When it does, of course, it overflows all over the tractor. Is there some way that we can increase the capacity of the hydraulic system on the tractor, or do we just have to get smaller rams? Thanks!

Re(1): 880 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 06:42:32 AM by Larry Harsin

There are extra reservoirs available. They attach to the left side of the hydraulic reservoir. There is a big pipe plug there on the left side on an 880. I will look and see if I have one. Call me 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): 880 Hydraulics

IP: 209.103.234.24 Posted on December 28, 2003 at 10:47:34 AM by Jason

Thanks for the info! If you have one, that would be great, if not, what do they look like? Would it be that hard to make something like that? Thanks again!

Re(3): 880 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 11:39:49 PM by Larry Harsin

I have one. Email me your zip code so I can figure shipping. Larry

1655 oliver

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 08:31:11 AM by karl

Larry, the hydralics appear to be working okay. Thanks for your advice. Two questions for today - My tractor came with only one key where can I get another? the tractor is missing some side metal on both sides - the part that says 1655 and the metal sheet it fastens onto. Both parts are below the hood/ they cover the top of the engine. Where would you suggest I find replacements? thaks again karl

Re(1): 1655 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.29 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 10:25:28 PM by Larry Harsin

I checked this morning and I don't have these for a 1655. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. They part out a lot of tractors. You might also check with Worthington Tractor Parts. 800-533-5304. Larry

Model ?

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 07:17:54 AM by Durbs

Can you tell me what model and year this is? 112549-873. Thank You.

Re(1): Model ?

IP: 67.2.242.105 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 07:27:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I need more description of the tractor. Is it a Utility style? Is it a row crop? Is it a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? You can email a picture to us if you want. cobalt@rconnect.com. Larry

Re(2): Model ?

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 08:55:36 AM by durbs

I think it is an 880? Could have new sheet metal? 6 cylinder.

Re(3): Model ?

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 10:21:40 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is an 880, it was built in 1961. They were 6 cylinder. Larry

Re(4): Model ?

IP: 209.50.4.238 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 10:53:08 PM by bastar

The tractor is definately a 880 built in 1961. The seventh digit in your number "8" tells us that it is a 880, the eight & ninth digits tell us that it had a C73 transmission with Power booster from the factory.

Re(5): Model ?

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on December 29, 2003 at 08:41:59 AM by Durbs

Thanks for the info!

550 HYDRALICS

IP: 207.144.98.89 Posted on December 22, 2003 at 08:25:06 PM by PLOWBOY

Larry, my 550 will slowly get low on HYD. oil on 3pt. It has no visible external leaks. Is there some seal under the cover that might be bad? When I have something hooked to 3 pt.it leaks down and cycles up about every 2 or 3 seconds. I have to add about a pint every 10 hours. THANKS.

Re(1): 550 HYDRALICS

IP: 67.2.242.105 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 07:23:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it is probably leaking oil from the hydraulic pump into the transmission. Check the level of the transmission oil. If it is too full, that will tell you. The symptoms of the 3 pt. arms settling and recycling is not uncommon. If you have to go into the unit to reseal the hydraulic pump, that would be a good time to put new "O" rings on the hydraulic lift piston. Larry

1755 Hyd

IP: 209.62.168.115 Posted on December 22, 2003 at 07:46:54 PM by Jim Grasse

I see that other owners have some prblems with their hyds on 1655's. I have a 1755 that seems to be starving for oil at certain RPMs. Lower RPMs are ok but over 1600RPMs the hyd are at best slow,noisy,and jerky. The power steering unit has had the cover plate pushed out and had to be strapped down to keep it in place. What Gives?

Re(1): 1755 Hyd

IP: 67.2.242.105 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 07:18:36 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is change the hydraulic filter. I'd also be certain that I was using the proper hydraulic fluid. Larry

Re(2): 1755 Hyd

IP: 209.50.4.238 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 11:04:22 PM by B A Star

Sounds like your system is getting air into it. How is the seal on the filter housing? Is the bottom of the housing caved in from overtightening? Does it have a belt driven cooler pump up at the front of the engine? If the belt has been run too tight it will take out the bushing in the pulley shaft and allow a lot of air to enter the system. Originally the steering cylinder had return hose that attached to the center cap and went to the cooler pump. The cylinder will always have some leakage from the ends to the center. If the return hose is not there or is pluggd, pressure will build to system pressure of 2250 PSI. The force against the cap will break it every time if there is not some relief.

Re(3): 1755 Hyd

IP: 209.62.168.83 Posted on December 25, 2003 at 12:14:56 PM by jim Grasse

I looked again at my power steer unit and there is a plug but no hose. I guess the power steering piston orings are leaking and causing the build up of pressure, so I would have to install a short hose back to the supply side of the pump?. My repair book does not show the detail of a suction hose from the reservoir to the pump. Could this be broken or what?. Where else would the air be coming from? Happy Holidays. Jim

Re(4): 1755 Hyd

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on December 25, 2003 at 05:39:37 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to install a hose from the top of the steering cylinder to the suction side of the little pump that is driven off the front of the engine. This should solve your problem as Duane Starr has explained. Larry

Re(5): 1755 Hyd

IP: 209.62.168.101 Posted on December 26, 2003 at 07:15:19 AM by Jim Grasse

What has changed on this tractor Hyd system over the years. There never was a hose connection from the power steer unit before, and will a new hookup cause more air to be induced into the lines than now? I still don't know if there might be a air leak comming from the reservoir to the pump. There is no damage to the fiter assembly, but I did not look inside as of yet. I'm glad to talk to someone about this as the local dealer has not been helpful other than selling a new tractor instead. Jim

Re(6): 1755 Hyd

IP: 67.2.248.39 Posted on December 26, 2003 at 07:56:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Well, maybe there wasn't a hose on there before, but it needs one. The hole is already there for you to put one into. It won't cause more air into the lines. I doubt if there is an air leak coming from the reservoir to the pump. Larry

Re(7): 1755 Hyd

IP: 209.62.168.83 Posted on December 27, 2003 at 03:28:19 PM by Jim grasse

Hi Larry, I decided that if I was to take things apart to install a hose on my power steering unit I would go ahead a put new orings and new rings on the piston also. Can you tell me what the small check valves mounted on the piston itself are for?. Would these have anything to do with a build up of pressure inside the power steer unit? Can a malfunction of the priority valve have the any effect on the power steer unit, and what would that be?. Hope you don't get tired of hearing from me I always have alot of questions. Jim

Re(8): 1755 Hyd

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on December 30, 2003 at 11:44:48 PM by Larry Harsin

The small check valves are to help with the problem you are having, but they don't completely solve the problem. You may have to put that relief hose on anyway to help with this. Larry

1650 motor

IP: 65.172.185.75 Posted on December 22, 2003 at 05:09:30 PM by corre k

I wrote about a week ago with motor troubles I had it overhauled do to a mis Well my mechanic has had it apart 3 times and it still misses we tryed new pump,injectors,shipped head for vaccum test all is inspec yet it misses we cannt get the compressin up it is only 260 instead of the 380 the book calls for the rings look good the motor only has seven hours on it plus the only way to get the motor to run at operating temp is to work the piss out of it as soon as we stop working it will cool right down we tryed hotter therostast I dont know what else to try it is an indirect injection oliver motor any help I need it

Re(1): 1650 motor

IP: 67.2.248.224 Posted on December 22, 2003 at 07:06:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Are the sleeves and pistons new or did you just re-ring it? Have you measured the wear on the pistons and the sleeves? If the sleeves and pistons have too much wear, you will not get the compression you need. Larry

Re(2): 1650 motor

IP: 65.172.185.60 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 05:09:39 AM by Corre K

THe piston and sleeve are new it has about 10 hours senes complete overhaul It never really did run right

Re(3): 1650 motor

IP: 67.2.242.105 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 07:13:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Have you checked your cam and lifters? Check for worn lobes in the cam. Make sure the valves are opening properly. Larry

Re(4): 1650 motor

IP: 65.172.185.91 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 05:26:41 PM by CorreK

We check cam before overhaul it had very little ware on it IS there a differt piston for gas and diesel is there a spec for piston hieght form block the new piston match the old but it missed when I got it

Re(4): 1650 motor

IP: 205.200.59.37 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 03:01:20 PM by North of Fargo

This is just a shot, Larry would know if this would make any difference. Apparently there are 2 versions of head gaskets for 1650D's? Not too likely that you got the wrong one but I'm sure I'm not the only one who's ever been given the wrong part. Maybe the wrong one wouldn't fit anyway. Larry?

Re(5): 1650 motor

IP: 65.172.185.88 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 05:29:48 PM by Corre K

Thank you for information but we found out the water holes dont line up there covered with the gasket for mine otherwise water runs out of block

Re(6): 1650 motor

IP: 67.2.248.212 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 06:50:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure if there are 2 different ones or not. You have the wrong head gasket. The one you have could be a for a gas motor. Larry

Re(7): 1650 motor

IP: 65.172.185.50 Posted on December 24, 2003 at 07:33:55 AM by Corre

Thank you for the help we plan on working on it more after the Holidays YOu and your family have a blessed Christmas and Happy New year

Horn-Draulic Loader

IP: 67.74.170.205 Posted on December 21, 2003 at 03:00:44 PM by Tom Hartman

I have a Ford 9-N tractor with a Horn Fordraulic Front Loader (No. F471-11463). I've had the tractor and loader for nearly 20 years and use it only lightly, but it is great. Recently, one of the loader cylinders started leaking so I took them both to a local (Georgetown Texas) hydraulics shop to be repaired. The shop tells me these have a very unusual size hydraulic cylinder and cannot find seals for them. Horn is out of business. Can you guide me to where I can get parts for these cylinders? Thanks very much in advance for your help and happy holidays!

Re(1): Horn-Draulic Loader

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on December 21, 2003 at 03:44:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Force America 515-573-8179. If they don't have them, they will probably know where to find them. They carry all this hydraulic stuff. Larry

Re(2): Horn-Draulic Loader

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on December 23, 2003 at 10:12:00 PM by jerry ulmer

I have had fantastic luck getting cylinder rebuild kits for everything form small air-cylinders to lift cylinders on H-90 Hough Payloaders and all size scrapers at Lubbock Gasket & Supply, 402 19th St, Lubbock, Tx and at really good prices comopared to Clark or Dresser dealer stuff. 806t/763-2801 I give them the old stuff and they measure it and put together a kit. I always have them build me a spare its so reasonable! Give them time if it is not in their inventory and they will come up with it. JU

Red and Yellow Colors

IP: 67.24.86.175 Posted on December 20, 2003 at 10:12:14 AM by Ken Schmidt

Are there any off the shelf paints that closely match the red and yellow colors of the 66 77 88's of the late 40's early 50's? Thanks

Re(1): Red and Yellow Colors

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on December 21, 2003 at 03:34:53 PM by Larry Harsin

JD yellow or Caterpiller yellow works on these tractors. I prefer the Old Catterpiller yellow for the fleetlines. The JD yellow works on the later Supers. The AGCO combine red is a good choice for wheels. The paint from AGCO is just a economical as paint from the hardware store. Larry

VOLTAGE REGULATOR

IP: 207.144.98.161 Posted on December 19, 2003 at 09:25:57 PM by PLOWBOY

Larry can you remove the cover on a voltage regulator and bend the spring on the points to make it charge less. My 550 charges a little more than I would like. Thanks.

Re(1): VOLTAGE REGULATOR

IP: 67.2.242.56 Posted on December 19, 2003 at 10:32:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can do that. Just relieve a little of the tension. Larry

Head Information

IP: 24.158.147.19 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 09:30:27 PM by E Kerr

Is there any difference in the chamber cc's of the 1550 head as compaired to the 77 head. Looking for better flow but i do not want to tamper with the compression ratio that i have now. Thanks for the information

Re(1): Head Information

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 10:54:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1550 head has a different chamber size than the 77 head. There is a difference. I'm guessing that it has more cc's than the 77. The 1550 head is a good choice to put on a 77. You can also do the same thing by putting on a 770 head. Larry

Re(2): Head Information

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on December 19, 2003 at 11:46:43 AM by Larry from MD

You can have the 880 valves installed like the 1555 has if you want more flow.

550 PISTONS

IP: 206.74.182.110 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 08:22:35 PM by PLOWBOY

Did all 550's have 3 5/8 pistons mine is sn#149247-019 a late 1964 I think, Am I correct. Thank you.

Re(1): 550 PISTONS

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 10:48:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, your's is a 1964. I believe it has 3 5/8" pistons. The earlier ones had 3 1/2" pistons. Larry

60 clutch adjustment

IP: 216.106.56.39 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 06:34:08 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I was wondering what clearance to set the fingers on the pressure plate at on a 60 row-crop? Someone told me to set it a 1/8th inch. Is that right?

Re(1): 60 clutch adjustment

IP: 67.2.242.56 Posted on December 19, 2003 at 10:29:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I checked the Service Manual and 1/8 " is right. Larry

Re(2): 60 clutch adjustment

IP: 216.106.56.14 Posted on December 21, 2003 at 08:47:48 PM by Jason Epperson Thanks alot Larry.

18-27 Hart Parr

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 02:20:44 PM by Ken Erickson

Larry Have a 1931 18-27, we need to rebuild the engine, Is there any parts which interchange from later models(oliver) which we could use. We are going to mic the cylinders for taper, but just looking by eye it doesn't look good. It's a Waukesha engine bore 4 1/8" stroke 5 1/4" (sleeved block) and the head and valves are good for rework. Looking for source for rings and rod bearings for sure, with the possibility of needing to go to oversized pistions (rework the current sleeves) and or new sleeves and pistons. I open to any ideas, this is a ground up rebuild, she ran but tired compression 30-40lbs cold. I am the 3rd owner(orginal family had her till 1991) and we are going to take are time and do it right. Thanks in advance

Re(1): 18-27 Hart Parr

IP: 67.2.248.55 Posted on December 18, 2003 at 10:43:40 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 80 would match. It is a continuation of the 18-27. Talk to Arnold Meyer about this. He may be able to help you with both parts and how-to. His email is: almeyer@frontiernet.net or phone 507-372-7788. Larry

550 GAS

IP: 207.144.98.68 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:18:17 PM by PLOWBOY

Is there anything one can do to a 550 gas for more power without compromising engine reliability? THANKS.

Re(1): 550 GAS

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:55:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Not really. If it has 3 5/8" pistons, that is as far as I would want to go with it. Larry

oversize pistons

IP: 66.152.128.167 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 09:31:08 PM by nimrod

Larry, I was wondering if you would have any oversized pistons for my gas 77? I was looking for a good domed piston or something as good. any suggestions around "3 3/4" thanks

Re(1): oversize pistons

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:54:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any. Contact Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. They have oversized pistons for a 77. You'll have to ask about the domed piston. I'm not sure what they have available. Larry

880 clutch

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 08:29:39 AM by Glen

Larry, when I put my 880 in nuetral and let the clutch out when I go back to put it in gear all the gears grind? Any suggestions? When I keep it in gear and shift from reverse to foward no problems. Thanks!

Re(1): 880 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:51:30 PM by Larry Harsin

That is sort of a trait of those tractors, especially if they have a power booster transmission. If it is worse than what I would call normal, you may have a problem, such as a stuck pilot bearing in the flywheel. Also, there could be a problem with the adjustment of the fingers on the pressure plate. Larry

Oliver 60 Ignition

IP: 216.28.230.91 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 07:21:52 AM by Aberdale Farm

Hi Larry, I am restoring a 1946 Oliver 60 Rowcrop. What was the original ignition switch configuration on the dash? Was it a key switch, toggle, or push/pull switch?

Re(1): Oliver 60 Ignition

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 07:27:14 AM by Larry Harsin

It was a push/pull switch. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 60 Ignition

IP: 216.28.230.91 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 08:02:12 AM by Aberdale Farm

Larry, Thank you for the quick reply. Did it have a knob similar to the choke and light switch?

Re(3): Oliver 60 Ignition

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:48:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it did. Larry

OLIVER TRANNY'S

IP: 206.74.182.72 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 08:18:58 PM by PLOWBOY

Larry, a reputable oliver mechanic told me that the gallion motor grader transmissions had some interchangeable parts with some oliver trannys. Is this true?

Re(1): OLIVER TRANNY'S

IP: 67.2.249.89 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 10:42:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't heard this before. It could be possible. Larry

Re(2): OLIVER TRANNY'S

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on December 20, 2003 at 00:35:55 AM by Jerry Ulmer

I have three Huber-Warco motor graders circa 1958 to 1962. They were the first in the industry hydraulic vs. knuckle buster (shove a gear onto a moving shaft mechanicals) and part of the drive line tranny and/or rear end was Oliver build (tough drive lines!!) but they have been out of business since Huber bankrupted in 1987. I have found old parts on old dealers shelves for steering, ect, but finding old dealers is hard. Best bet for tractor parts are some of Mr. Harsin's recommended salvage yards as they have lots of green painted corpses awaiting organ donor status. Lots of luck!! Happy Holidays!! I'm working on a Hancock 8 yd elevating scraper which is pure oliver 1950 powered. JU

Re(3): OLIVER TRANNY'S

IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on December 21, 2003 at 03:50:54 PM by Larry Harsin

We have a 1963 Hancock 8 yd elevating scraper awaiting restoration. I need a bullgear and the 2 hydraulic cylinders clear in the back of the scraper in the bottom. Larry

Re(4): OLIVER TRANNY'S

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on December 22, 2003 at 00:06:02 AM by Jerry Ulmer

E-mail server is not working here. I'll call with some names and numbers after X-mas or e-mail if it is back up. Have several expert contacts on Hancock/Michigan/Clark scrapers & parts. Jerry

1950GM

IP: 204.32.114.137 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 12:27:16 PM by Andy

I am wanting to know how much more horsepower it will give my 1950 by adding a turbo. I already have N90 injectors in it. Thanks.

Re(1): 1950GM

IP: 67.2.249.89 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 10:28:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know, but I would guess you would get at least a 20% increase. Larry

Re(1): 1950GM

IP: 67.27.110.8 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 12:35:55 PM by John

What type of turbo are you going to run? Different sized turbochargers and different exhaust housings on the turbo will change boost/power levels. I'd say the stock type setup would give you a 20-30% increase in power. Is your tractor pretty overfueled right now with the big injectors and no turbo? I have a 1900 that I'm going to turbo. I want to run a set of N95's.

hydralic pump 1655

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 09:17:27 AM by karl

Larry, I think I will opt to keep changing filters and unsticking valves. You said metal shavings will be in the bottom of the hydralic pump. Does this need to be cleaned or do I let the filter do that? How biug of a job is it to clean the bottom of the hydralic pump? Again, thank you for your help. I grew up on an Oliver 88 that my dad bought new. Buying this 1655 brings back some good memories....

Re(1): hydralic pump 1655

IP: 67.2.249.89 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 10:26:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Let the filter clean it. To clean the hydraulic pump, you have to pull the hydraulic unit assembly off of the tractor and remove the oil pan to clean it. Larry

1755 hyd (no brake pressure)

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on December 15, 2003 at 10:00:08 PM by gary r

Larry I need your help .1755 brake pressure is 400psi.main pump pressure is 2200psi.have change shim in unloader valve,did not change.valves spool do work good and free.lift work good with power.steering ok also.what would be next to do.

Re(1): 1755 hyd (no brake pressure)

IP: 67.2.249.61 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 05:48:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the brakes are supposed to have more than 400 lbs of pressure. Are they working o.k.? Have you checked the condition of the brake linings? It may be the brake linings instead of the hydraulics. Larry

Re(1): 1755 hyd (no brake pressure)

IP: 209.50.4.206 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 10:06:29 PM by B A Star

The factory specified pressure is 240 PSI for your tractor. Pressure is controled by the pressure reducing valve, which is the lower one in the valve housing on the LH side of transmission. Pressure is adjusted by shims behind a spring. This pressure is also used for the PTO Clutch & Brake. Do not set the pressure higher or you will break the spokes on the PTO clutch hub. Once you have reached the 240 PSI at the brake master cylinder, the return valve closes and higher pressure can be generated by your foot pushing on the pedal. It does not take too much effort to generate 2000 PSI at the brake cylinder. The unloader valve will have no effect on the pressure for the brakes/PTO. If you do not have good brakes, you need to check the brake discs.

1655 hydralic problem

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 15, 2003 at 10:05:37 AM by karl

Thanks for the comments you provide. They are very helpful. I am still having problems with the 1655 hydralics. The mechanic shop that has been working on it has told me that a spring on the filter was broken and the filter wasn't fitting right. Pieces of the spring appear to be blocking the orfice. They have replaced the filter and oil - at least as much as possible without emptying the loader cylinder and they have fixed the filter problem. However, the tractor lifted bales nicely for 15 minutes before the hydralics stopped working. The steering contined to work but with no power assist. Is this a problem that will take 5 years to work out? If pieces of metal are floating in the oil, will the pump be ruined? How about the cylinders? What needs to be done to fix it so it will work permanently? Again, thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1655 hydralic problem

IP: 67.2.249.61 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 05:43:29 AM by Larry Harsin

From the sounds of things, the hydraulic system is contaminated with metal particles. You have one of 2 options. First you can keep going as you are presently by cleaning the stuck valves and replacing the hydraulic filter more often. Or, completely disassembling the hydraulic unit and cleaning it. This is a BIG task as you probably have metal shavings in your hydraulic cylinders on your loader and 3 pt. There are going to be shavings in the bottom of your hydraulic unit that will have to be cleaned out. These shavings are damaging to the hydraulic pump. I would opt for continuing as you have been and replacing the filter and cleaning the valves as needed, to see if this unit would clean itself up. Larry

Re(2): 1655 hydralic problem

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 16, 2003 at 09:10:32 AM by karl

Thanks for your insight. It appears things are preently working okay but time will tell.

550 STEERING BOX

IP: 207.144.98.28 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 09:55:10 PM by PLOWBOY

Should the arms coming out of the steering box be paraell with each other or should the one on the right be ahead of the other with the wheels straight? Does this affect how sharp it turns one way or the other? THANKS.

Re(1): 550 STEERING BOX

IP: 67.2.248.213 Posted on December 15, 2003 at 10:59:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe one should be ahead of the other. I believe this would affect how sharp it turns. Larry

1550 diesel starting

IP: 24.214.75.22 Posted on December 13, 2003 at 08:10:43 PM by Scott

I am looking at a used 1550 Diesel w/ about 2900hrs. Is it common to have to use ether to start them. The dealer says the engine was always hard to start. I am looking for a long term fix if I buy it.

Re(1): 1550 diesel starting

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 05:50:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, on that particular engine, that is common. That engine, if it has had good care, should be good yet. It isn't a terribly expensive engine to repair in case it does need to be overhauled. I think you can get an engine rebuild kit for approx $1000 if it needs it. Larry

1948-9 Oliver tractor cleet track problem

IP: 66.227.237.44 Posted on December 13, 2003 at 06:42:36 PM by Cameron

I need to know what the timing setting for the track on this model. Please e-mail me with this info.

Re(1): 1948-9 Oliver tractor cleet track problem

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 05:46:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman. He is the Cletrac Expert. Email him at: zoc@att.net or call him 717-738-2573. Larry

Re(1): 1948-9 Oliver tractor cleet track problem

IP: 68.118.200.187 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 03:54:50 PM by Jeremy

Every time I turn to the right the trac comes off

Re(2): 1948-9 Oliver tractor cletrac problem

IP: 67.2.248.240 Posted on December 17, 2003 at 11:00:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Look for worn parts in your under carriage. Adjust the front idlers to tighten the tracks. Larry

power--less

IP: 65.149.148.12 Posted on December 13, 2003 at 09:10:46 AM by Wil

Hello Larry, seasons greetings to you and yours. My s55 starts fine. Idles fine. Was running fine as well. But now, when putting on a load ( just putting into gear ) she bogs down and stalls. If I nurse her, I can get her moving in first & second gear. Two things. 1st. After your diagnosis, If I can find a mechanic, i would love to have her fixed. And secondly, which is most important. Are parts or kits available for the repairs? Thanks again for your expertise and willingness to share it. Wil Thomas

Re(1): power--less

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 05:28:48 AM by Larry Harsin

My first thought is that it isn't getting enough fuel. Check out the fuel system to make sure there is no foreign material plugging the fuel strainer. After checking that, and if that doesn't help, take the carb apart and make sure it is o.k. There are carb kits and there are parts available. If the fuel system checks out o.k., then it is time to check the electrical system to determine if it has a strong spark or not at the coil. Happy Holidays! Larry

TSX 411 carb

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on December 12, 2003 at 03:55:45 PM by Jim

What does this carb fit on

Re(1): TSX 411 carb

IP: 67.2.242.104 Posted on December 12, 2003 at 09:25:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Larry

OVERHAUL

IP: 206.74.182.88 Posted on December 12, 2003 at 02:40:53 PM by PLOWBOY

Would you give me a rough estimate of how many hours it takes to major a 550 gas engine so I can start feeding my piggybank. THANK YOU.

Re(1): OVERHAUL

IP: 67.2.249.243 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 05:21:06 AM by Larry Harsin

15 hrs should about do it. Larry

1655 steering

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 12, 2003 at 09:46:35 AM by karl

Larry, I am still having problems with the 1655 oliver. The steering wheel seems like it is locked up solid. It won't turn. After going through the the steps you listed earlier, it will free up and turn with power assist. Just before and after I shut down the tractor the steering wheel moves freely, but then the next morning the steering wheel won't turn - not even any free play-locked tight. Any idea of what the problem might be? Is it still something sticking in the spools? Is it in the stering wheel and whatever it attaches to? Was this a common problem? It is something in the oil sump? thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1655 steering

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on December 12, 2003 at 11:17:42 AM by Larry from MD

The steering collum has needle bearings in it they can and do lock up.This will make the wheel feel solid or catch in places and can be very inconsistant.

1850D pump timing

IP: 216.198.127.10 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 07:11:45 PM by Phil

1850D Perkins Oliver manual is not clear to me. All it tells about is the auxiliary drive timing. At 28 degrees BTDC the pump should be lined up at the "F" mark? I found this in my White manual and assume the 1850 engine is timed similar to the 2-105. Thanks

Re(1): 1850D pump timing

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 10:50:59 PM by Larry Harsin Yes. I believe that is correct. Larry

Re(1): 1850D pump timing IP: 209.50.4.244 Posted on December 14, 2003 at 01:59:27 AM by B A Star

I assume that you are referring to the shop manual for the 2-105. It has been determined that the snap ring will move due to vibration over a period of time. The manual outlines the method to check the position of the snap ring. To check the pump timing aleignment for the snap ring, you will have to have special fittings. There are delivery valves in each of the outlet fittings. You need a special fitting that does not have the delivery valve to get fuel pressure back to the pumping plungers. Remember that to do any pump work where you are opening the pump housing, it must be clean, clean.

1850 steering issues

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 06:51:58 PM by Scott

Hi Larry, I am a young new Oliver man, and interested in purchasing a 1850 2wd in my hometown. It has some serious steering issues. The steering arms are broken, and the wheel shaft's (not sure what they are called) where they go up into the axles are shot. Someone has been obviously rigging them up by welding over the years. The axle itself is in good shape. My question is where can I get these parts and how much will they roughly run? I also understand that I probably should have the two hydrolic steering motors rebuilt at the same time. The farmer that I am purchasing the tractor from, said before the steering arms broke, the tractor would lock-up when you turned to the left. Is this going to be an expensive proposition for me? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1850 steering issues

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 10:48:59 PM by Larry Harsin

The new spindles are $200 each. The tie-rods are approx. $75 each. The arms on the top of the spindles are approx. $75 each. I don't know what the hydraulic steering motors will cost, but as you can see, you are going to have over $1000 in parts. Larry

REBUILD

IP: 207.144.87.233 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 06:32:38 PM by PLOWBOY

Larry, what would you charg to rebuild my 550 gas, taking no shortcuts? Is there something you do to the valves to compensate for unleaded gas

Re(1): REBUILD

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 10:44:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I get $35 per hr. plus parts. I wouldn't be able to work on it til March. You don't have to compensate for unleded gas on a 550 as it has hard seats. You could also use some additive in your fuel if you are using the tractor hard. Larry

Oliver 70 exhaust

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on December 10, 2003 at 10:36:51 PM by Larry

Larry, Thanks for sharing all of your experience. I read somewhere that Oliver 70's had valve troubles. That is why the under hood mufflers got lost and some people put on headers or dual stacks. My underhood muffler needs to be replaced. Would you recommend a header with a common muffler above the hood? Original is nice, but burning valves is expensive.

Re(1): Oliver 70 exhaust

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 07:53:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I would try to stay with the original style muffler. Most of the 70's aren't used so much any more as to have valve problems. There are exhaust valve rotor caps available for the exhaust valves. They help with valve problems. Larry

77 Shift cover

IP: 24.158.147.19 Posted on December 10, 2003 at 08:13:25 PM by Snake Eyes

Do you have or know where I can get an alunimun shift cover for this tractor?

Re(1): 77 Shift cover

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 07:49:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Korves Bros. Email: korves@htc.net or 618-939-6681 (Shop). Larry

550 PIVOT PIN

IP: 207.144.98.15 Posted on December 10, 2003 at 07:30:16 PM by PLOWBOY

The adjustable axle on my 550 has a little bit of play on the pivit pin. Do I need to replace the pivit pin, or are their bushings in the axle that need to be replaced?

Re(1): 550 PIVOT PIN

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 07:47:57 AM by Larry Harsin

My parts book does not show a bushing in the front axle. If your pivot pin is worn, you may have to build it up or replace it. If the wear is in the axle, you may have to take the axle to a machine shop and have a bushing installed to remove the play. Larry

1900 axles/hubs

IP: 67.27.111.25 Posted on December 10, 2003 at 11:31:33 AM by John

Hello All: I got the wheels and hubs off of my 1960 Oliver 1900. The splines on the axles look good, but they are a little wore inside the hub. There is too much play in the hub, it's not even fitting the axle tightly (like they aren't the correct ones). The casting on the hubs are 104958-A, are these the correct ones? There is about 1/16-1/8" play between the splines on the axle and the splines in the hub. The only thing holding the hubs on is the big nut (3 3/4") and one washer. All this is doing is keeping the hub from coming off. There is play from the nut to the end of the axle housing, it should be tight. All help appreciated,

Re(1): 1900 axles/hubs

IP: 67.2.248.254 Posted on December 11, 2003 at 07:44:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe those are the correct hubs, they are just worn. You need new hubs. Call Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304. Or check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to get new ones. Larry

550 STEERING

IP: 207.144.98.162 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 07:12:14 PM by PLOWBOY

How do you get steering spindle bushings out to change them, and how much would you guess new ones would cost? Thanks.

Re(1): 550 STEERING

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 10:54:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a long punch or chisel to get them out. Sometimes they are in bad enough shape that they are broken. I don't think they are terribly expensive. It has been a long time since I have bought some. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. for prices. 800-320-6224. Larry

1655 hydralics

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 12:49:25 PM by karl

The mechanic replaced the filters and checked the release value, Then he worked on the flow diverter. Everything then worked. This morning the steering wheel would not move although the loader hydralics would. Then after a few minutes the loader hydralics wouldn't move either. Any more suggestions or ideas?

Re(1): 1655 hydralics

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 10:50:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Go back and redo the steps. Something is contaminating those spools. You may want to put new fluid in the unit. Larry

Oliver 1365 Transmission leak

IP: 68.224.183.30 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 11:34:26 AM by Kelson

Just bought a 1365 at auction that has a loader from the original owner. The tractor had seen only a little use in the past year, but runs smooth and seems really solid. Here is the problem. Under the transmission on each side of the drain plug are drain holes with codder-keys in them. I am getting transmission fluid coming out of those holes. What is the cause? An old seal leaking? Can this happen if someone over-fills it? I don't know if it is going to taper off or if it will keep leaking. Is the only way to fix it to split the tractor? Any info is welcome and appreciated. I am also interested in knowing possible repair cost. Someone mentioned that if it has a breather thats clogged that could do it. Could that be it, and where is the breather? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1365 Transmission leak

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 10:48:32 PM by Larry Harsin

That leaking can be any of the problem you listed, including the breather. I don't know where the breather is located on that tractor. You should have an Operator's Manual to tell you so that it can be serviced. A Shop Manual would also be helpful for anything major such as replacing those seals. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City IA Email her: fchs@fiai.net. To replace those seals is a major job. I don't reccommend that you do it without the Shop Manual. You will have to split the tractor to replace the seals, if that is what you have to do. Larry

Oliver Oper. Manuals

IP: 216.19.8.124 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:57:13 PM by Jim Radley

I just bought my first Oliver tractor, A 1955 Super 88 ,wide front, diesel. Are operator manuals, parts and service manuals still available for these tractors? If so, where is the best place to get them and do you know the approximate price? Thanks for the response!!

Re(1): Oliver Oper. Manuals

IP: 67.2.242.116 Posted on December 9, 2003 at 06:25:25 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get all of the Oliver Manuals for everything Oliver ever built from the Museum in Charles City IA. Although some are originals, most are reprints. The Operator's Manuals for tractors run $20 - $25. I don't know the prices of the Service Manuals or the Parts Manuals. Just ask Mary Ann Townsend, if you don't want it, just say so. Her email is: fchs@fiai.net. When Oliver closed the plant in Charles City IA, they gave all of the paperwork to the local Historical Society. Thus they have this at the Museum. Larry

550 FUEL SYSTEM

IP: 207.144.175.39 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 07:28:13 PM by PLOWBOY

In your opinion which 550 fuel system is the best,Bosch or Roosa Master? THANKS

Re(1): 550 FUEL SYSTEM

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:13:02 PM by Larry Harsin

They are both o.k. I do like the Roosa Master as the governor action is better. But there are very few of the Rossa Masters around. The Bosch is good, too. Larry

Oliver ADH deisel crawler

IP: 69.43.13.184 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 01:25:54 PM by Mark G. Sergent

I recently became the proud owner of a Oliver ADH diesel crawler that is fairly complete. Do you have any information or sources as to year etc. or other owners so I can get off on the right foot. In West Virginia Olivers are fairly rare so any help would be appreciated. thank you

Re(1): Oliver ADH deisel crawler

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:11:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA. He is the crawler expert. 717-738-2573 Give Landis your serial number and he will tell you the year it was built. Landis has a parts and service business for Oliver crawlers. Larry

550 Wiring question

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 11:31:53 AM by Joe Shaffer

Do you have a wiring diagram for a 1969- 550? My battery keeps going dead. I check the output of the gen. and it was 12.2 volts at the reg. The wiring has been butchard and new wires spliced in and replaced. So I'm not sure where or what wires are right. Also if I do need to replace the gen. can I use a 1 wire GM alt. instead?? or should I just replace the gen. and keep it stock??

Re(1): 550 Wiring question

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:06:49 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. It will have the wiring diagram and a lot of other info you should have. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. I would reccommend that you stay with the generator instead of the alternator. The reason is if you go to an alternator, you will have a problem with your cluster gauges not working properly. Larry

hydralic problem

IP: 66.163.147.120 Posted on December 7, 2003 at 11:32:42 PM by karl

Help, my 1655 hydralics stopped working. A week ago the power steering and the loader had no hydralics. I started the tractor 2 days later and everything worked fine. Today, I started the tractor and the steering wheel wouldn't turn. I tried the hyradlic levers to move the loader and they worked fine. A few minutes later the steering wheel would turn but with out power assist. A few minutes later the steering had power assist. I then moved 2 hay bales and all hydralics stopped working. i can move the steering wheel but there is no power assist. the loader bucket is raised and won't raise or lower. the levers provide no response with tractor on or off. i checked the hydralic oil. It's full - actually it appears to be above the full mark on the dipstick. Is the pump shot? Do i have a sticky value? Oil Filter? What do you think is the problem?

Re(1): hydralic problem

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 06:09:09 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is the hydraulic system relief valve. This is on the top right-hand front of the hydraulic housing, just to the right of the filter. I use a big Crescent wrench to unscrew this plug. I think the spool will be sticking in this valve. You'll have to inspect it and free it up. Also, look in the hole where you have removed this valve, for a screen about the size of a nickel. This is probably dirty or ruptured. Also, unscrew the hydraulic filter and replace the element if you havn't already done so. This should do it. If not, look for a sticking regulator valve in the power steering flow divider. Larry

Re(2): hydralic problem

IP: 66.163.147.82 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:18:18 PM by karl

Thank you larry. I really appreciate your help!

550 TIRES

IP: 207.144.87.238 Posted on December 7, 2003 at 07:06:14 PM by PLOWBOY

Do tires need to be loaded on a 550 for it to pull a 3 bottom plow well?

Re(1): 550 TIRES

IP: 67.2.249.79 Posted on December 7, 2003 at 08:21:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably. Either that or a lot of wheel weights. You probably need at least 700 lbs of wheel weights if you don't use fluid. Larry

Re(2): 550 TIRES

IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 09:37:15 AM by stu

Would chains be a good idea for summer traction?

Re(3): 550 TIRES

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 08:58:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Chains might help a little, but he is going to have to have some weight on it to pull a 3 bottom plow. Larry

Seat Missing on 39 70 RC

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 10:41:56 PM by Bob Bennett

Thanks Larry, Can you suggest someone for a seat for this tractor. It has the "Z" shaped rods attached to the 70 but the seat is gone. I don't know what it is supposed to have on it or what to look for. Do you have a good description of seat, photo, or someone I could contact about it.

Re(1): Seat Missing on 39 70 RC

IP: 67.2.249.79 Posted on December 7, 2003 at 08:18:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net or Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332. If you would get a Parts Manual from Charles City, there would be a picture of it in there. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Possibly Mary Ann would send a picture of just the seat to you. Larry

550 HORSES

IP: 207.144.175.29 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 07:28:15 PM by PLOWBOY

Does a 550 have enough power to pull a three bottom plow?

Re(1): 550 HORSES

IP: 67.2.249.188 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 10:16:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it does. It is rated as a 2 or 3 bottom tractor. The plow has to be a 3 pt hitch mounted plow to do this. Larry

Cockshutt 1650D

IP: 205.200.62.226 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 06:46:01 PM by North of Fargo

Hi Larry: Our red tractor is slowly turning green with envy! Guess they just painted over the completed unit by the looks of things. My question is: what is the adjusting screw for where the steering column comes through the firewall?

Re(1): Cockshutt 1650D

IP: 67.2.249.188 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 10:14:26 PM by Larry Harsin

That is a blocking valve for the steering unit. If the tractor steers properly, just leave it alone. In your Operator's Manual there is a section that explains the use of this valve. Larry

1655

IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on December 5, 2003 at 03:00:33 PM by karl

Larry, I just bought an Oliver tractor Serial number - 254461-490 What model is it and what year was it made? Is their any warnings about using it as a loader tractor (ezee on loader) for feeding hay round bales? karl

Re(1): 1655

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on December 5, 2003 at 10:15:49 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1655 was built in 1974. Just use your good judgement and operate it safely. Don't lift the bale very high, keep it down low. If you don't do this safely, you can easily tip a tractor over with a bale of hay. Another thing is that if you lift it too high, the bale can roll back onto the tractor and onto the driver real quickly. People have lost their lives this way. Larry

Re(2): 1655

IP: 66.163.147.166 Posted on December 6, 2003 at 00:38:12 AM by Karl

Larry, Thanks. karl

70 RC Sheet Metal

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on December 5, 2003 at 10:40:27 AM by Bob Bennett

Larry, On the 39 70 RC are there two pieces on each side for the side panels. I am looking for the engine panels, but thought maybe there is also another panel behind the engine panel where the decals go. Do you have any suggestions for sheet metal for the 70 RC?

Re(1): 70 RC Sheet Metal

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on December 5, 2003 at 10:11:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there are two pieces as you describe. For new reproductions, contact Richard Lynch in Eaton OH 937-456-6686. Larry

M. S. rebuilt carb

IP: 67.1.100.124 Posted on December 5, 2003 at 07:16:24 AM by Bill Fleck

Larry I called Valu Bilt,excellent people to work with, carb is on it's way. Thanks again for all the help. Bill

Re(1): M. S. rebuilt carb

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 06:11:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad we could help. Larry

550 voltage regulator

IP: 207.144.98.138 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:13:19 PM by PLOWBOY

My 550 voltage regulator is wired like it shows in owners manual wiring diagram.It makes about 15 or 16 volts at idle. What terminals do I need to put red and yellow wires on for summer charging? THANKS.

Re(1): 550 voltage regulator

IP: 67.2.249.36 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 09:32:58 PM by Larry Harsin

The red wire should go on the middle terminal or the one that says battery. The yellow wire should be on the front terminal that is marked L. Larry

55 Super seat

IP: 206.47.184.213 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 04:59:17 PM by Paul

looking for complete seat for 55 Super can you help? Thanks Paul

Re(1): 55 Super seat

IP: 65.117.137.193 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 07:25:11 PM by RockinB

Got one email me.

Identify this tractor ?

IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 04:29:07 PM by Larry

I just purchased this Oliver tractor from a buddy. He dosen't know the model and am wanting to find a repair manual. The tag on the left side of transmission reads Serial # 121-516-519 above that is 45-0519. any ifo would be helpful Thanks Larry

Re(1): Identify this tractor ?

IP: 67.2.249.36 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 09:28:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe it is an 1800 built in 1961. If it is an 1800, it weighs approx. 8500 lbs. it has 74 HP in the gas and 70 HP in the diesel. You can get an Operator's Manual from the museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Identify This Oliver

IP: 216.19.8.18 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:32:04 AM by Jim

I have a friend that just bought an old Oliver tractor to restore and there are no decals on it but we do have the serial number which is: 330599 and then there is another number under that which is: C77D. Can you tell me which model this is and what year it was built? Thanks for your reply!

Re(1): Identify This Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:45:06 AM by Larry Harsin

The tractor is an Oliver 77 Row Crop built in 1950. Larry

Oliver 70 comp. chk

IP: 66.222.53.253 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 07:25:42 PM by H. Fry

1940 Oliver 70 RC Compression Test 12/2/2003
Cylinder no.1....2.....3....4.....5....6
dry test.....65...81..83...81...33...84
2squirt oil..70...86..87...88...41...85
7squirt oil..90...98.107.104..115..92

1. After tractor sat for over a week, took out plugs and ran (dry) compression check.
2. Squirted 2 squirts of 30# oil into each cylinder right before running a 2nd check.
3. Squirted 7 squirts of 30# oil into each cylinder right before running a 3rd check.

I'm not too experienced in overhauls, but looks like I'll need, at least rings and probably valve work. Trying to get an idea about whether this job will cost more than the tractor is worth. The rest of the tractor seems to be in very good shape mechanically and the sheet metal is near perfect. Comments/ideas/obeservations would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 70 comp. chk

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:42:51 AM by Larry Harsin

From what I see, it looks like you need a valve job and probably rings, as you are anticipating. My experience has been that most of the 70's need new valves and seats plus exhaust guides. You can get a lot of money invested in an engine to make it right. Larry

880 hp

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 01:50:34 PM by Glen

What is the horsepower of a 1960 880? Thanks, Glen

Re(1): 880 hp

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:38:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The 880 has 60 HP. Larry

3 pt lift on 1850 gas

IP: 12.216.162.221 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 12:17:07 PM by Chuck

I have an aerway areator on the 3 pt and the arms do not lower enough to engage the sway blocks on 3 pt due to the high attachment points on the areator. My IH966 has sway links to prevent this. Any sway links available for the Oliver.

Re(1): 3 pt lift on 1850 gas

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:37:42 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't think so. You may have to fabricate something. Larry

Re(1): 3 pt lift on 1850 gas

IP: 205.188.209.102 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 07:41:37 AM by Don-WI

As far as I'm aware, the sway blocks should be able to be turned around and then they will block the sway for the full range of motion on the 3 pt. They should be similar to that which is on my 1755, and they can just be switched from one side to the other takes virtually all of the sway out. Donovan from Wisconsin

Marvel Schebler rebuilt carbs

IP: 67.1.100.49 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 08:31:11 AM by Bill Fleck

Larry I was wondering if you knew of anyone that had rebuilt M. S. carbs for sale. I have a 77 Oliver I think they used a 363, it doeshave onersized sleeves and pistons. I do have a new Zenith on it but dosen't seem to run as well and gas seeps out of it. Got the pulleys on the 88 D they worked great. Thanks for time and knowledge. Bill

Re(1): Marvel Schebler rebuilt carbs

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on December 4, 2003 at 06:35:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Glad to hear that things worked out on your 88D. Larry

Oliver Super 88

IP: 216.19.8.185 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 06:56:06 AM by Jim

This is my first visit to this site! I just bought my first Oliver tractor, a 1955 Super 88 Row Crop. There are two levers under the steering wheel that appear like they are hydraulic control levers but when you move them, they do nothing. There is also what appears to be an aftermarket ad on cylinder down by the drawbar that would lift a 3 point hitch or other attachment if it was equipped with one. These levers I mentioned do nothing to activate this cylinder. There are also two hyd. hoses just hanging down by the left rear axle that have quick couplers on the end. Can anyone tell me if these levers should activate this cylinder and how this setup should work? I'm just learning about Olivers. Thanks for any reply!

Re(1): Oliver Super 88

IP: 67.2.242.17 Posted on December 3, 2003 at 07:28:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The 2 levers under the steering wheel operate the hydraulic cylinders. My guess of the reason they don't work is that the hydraulic unit is out of oil. The dipstick and filler cap is on the unit between the levers. I would use a non-foaming hydraulic oil, probably 10w in the winter and 20w in the summer. Sometimes on older tractors the oil leaks from the pump into the tractor transmission compartment. The check plug for the transmission and differential on your tractor will be a 1/2" pipe plug directly behind the right hand axle carrier. If this is over full at this point, the leaking into the transmission problem is likely. You need to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. It will answer a lot of these questions. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Those hoses are to hook onto remote cylinders. Larry

1650 Carb

IP: 216.159.100.3 Posted on December 2, 2003 at 05:51:09 PM by Matt

What are the corret settings for the carb on a 1650. Can't get mine to idle. Starts OK, usually floods real easy, especially if it sits and you try and start it the same day. Usually have to shut hte gas off to prevent this. What do I need to do?

Re(1): 1650 Carb

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on December 2, 2003 at 07:01:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is make sure you are getting good flow out of the fuel tank into the fuel strainer. Then make sure that screen in the fuel strainer is there and doing it's job. Then remove the carb and clean it out. Then reassemble and put it back on the tractor. Then turn the load needle about 1 1/2 turns out and the idle mixture needle out about 1 turn. Then see how things work. Make adjustments from that point. Larry

Repair Manuals

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 11:34:26 PM by Bob Bennett

Larry, as a mechanic which service manuals do you find the most useful. I am not a mechanic but we do a lot of mechanics work. I have a 1939 70 RC Thanks for this great website... Bob Bennett

Re(1): Repair Manuals

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on December 2, 2003 at 06:58:02 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver Manuals are the best. Originals are hard to find. You can get reprints from the museum in Charles City. The I&T Manuals are adequate, but I prefer the Oliver Manuals. Larry

ETHER # 3 CHEVRON

IP: 207.144.87.254 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 10:29:25 PM by PLOWBOY

Are you familiar with the chevron starting aid that was offered as an option on some olivers? If yes,how did they work?

Re(1): ETHER # 3 CHEVRON

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on December 2, 2003 at 06:55:39 PM by Larry Harsin

There was an ether capsule that you had to put into the unit. Then there was a blade that you stabbed the capsule and a plunger that you used to injected it into the intake manifold. I havn't seen one for years and years. The Operator's manual should have a description of this and how it works. Larry

STARTING FLUID (ETHER)

IP: 207.144.175.52 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 07:05:43 PM by PLOWBOY

Some say diesels become hooked on ether and will not start easily without it. Do you belive this?

Re(1): STARTING FLUID (ETHER)

IP: 67.2.249.54 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 09:59:55 PM by Larry Harsin

If they get so that they require ether, it is one sign that the engine is low on compression. Also, it can be batteries that are not up to par or a starter that is getting tired. However, ether used correctly will not harm an engine, but on the other hand, it can do great damage if used improperly. Larry

oliver baler

IP: 207.170.34.30 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 06:58:52 PM by Tim N ILL

I recently bought an oliver 50 series twine baler, can you tell me about how old it is? The fella said it would make hay...but not to push it too hard. I only make 250 bales a year. Also how hard would it be to find a manual?? That probably would cost more than I paid for the baler. TIM

Re(1): oliver baler

IP: 67.2.249.54 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 09:56:45 PM by Larry Harsin

It was made in the late fifties - like 1959. You can get a manual for it from the museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(2): oliver baler

IP: 209.50.4.194 Posted on December 2, 2003 at 01:38:08 AM by bastar

The model 50 baler was built in 1954, 55 & 56.

770 gas oil seal

IP: 208.188.159.131 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 04:28:25 PM by gary

just changed out all seals during overhaul and the front has a pretty good seep. will it finally brake in. any hints.

Re(1): 770 gas oil seal

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 06:25:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Try it for awhile. If it doesn't stop, you will have to redo it. Larry

1800 overhaul

IP: 208.34.4.159 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 03:51:36 PM by Randy Neirynck

Larry, I have torn down the engine on my 61 1800 gas(3 years ago) and going to rebuild this winter. I would like to boost it up a little when I do. I would like to know what the pullers do to get more horse power out of these engines. Thank you for your time . Randy

Re(1): 1800 overhaul

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 06:24:13 PM by Larry Harsin

About the only thing I know of to do is put in oversized pistons. Talk to your AGCO dealer about what pistons to use. Otherwise, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and ask him. 800-320-6224. Larry

880 diesel

IP: 199.120.106.122 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 09:59:29 PM by Tom

I'm just a beginner at this oliver thing! So can you fill in some major gaps in the information department? I have an 880 diesel with the Roosemaster injection pump. If I understand the info I've read, it is a 265 cubic inch Waukasha engine. Will this engine fit in a 1550, 1600,1650,1655? Did they have the same or similar engine? What motor is in a 1750, 1850, 1950-T, is this 310 I see written about in some of these postings the same block with bigger bore and stroke? I realize that these are sort of dumb questions but Oliver had a rather wide verity of engine makes and models compared to Deere as an example. Two more questions, My 880 motor is a good one, but the tractor has no 3-point, or power steering, should I just hunt for a non-running 1650 to but it in? Is it possible to put a turbo on this engine, not for much more power, but because a turbo'd tractor always sounds better? Thanks Tom

Re(1): 880 diesel

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 10:18:02 PM by Larry Harsin

It won't fit a 1550, but it will fit the others you have listed. The engines were similar and in the same family. It is the 310 Waukesha. In the 310 cu. in. engines, there were about 3 different styles of engine blocks for different applications. I wouldn't do a turbo thing. The most desirable tractor to put the 880 engine in is a 1600. It won't have enough HP for a 1650. A 1650 diesel uses a 283 diesel engine. Larry

serial #

IP: 64.68.174.34 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 08:49:22 PM by David

I have a dash with a serial # plate on it the # is Spec. 18-1622 serial 26331-801. I am wondering what this dash is from? Thanks David

Re(1): serial #

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 10:08:14 PM by Larry Harsin

It is probably off of a S77 or a S88 built in 1955. The S88 dash is larger where the gauges are. Larry

STARTING FLUID (ETHER)

IP: 206.74.182.217 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 07:18:05 PM by PLOWBOY

Do you think useing ether to start a 550 diesel is bad for the engine?

Re(1): STARTING FLUID (ETHER)

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 10:04:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Not if it is used correctly. Don't give it too much. Larry

Re(1): STARTING FLUID (ETHER)

IP: 63.190.96.121 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 10:05:03 PM by old

If your worryed about it add a block heater, its probably better for it and also not as hard on the starter. And after a few cans of starter fliud you have payed for the block heater.

Oliver 550 Diesel starting question

IP: 166.82.82.219 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 05:57:56 PM by James Alexander

How critical is the cleanliness of the energy cells to good starting? How do you know if they need cleaning and what can they be soaked with to help remove them? With the head off, they don't look too coked-up.

Re(1): Oliver 550 Diesel starting question

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 10:03:20 PM by Larry Harsin

If they look like they are open etc. I think they are o.k., but if you have the head off, you may want to remove the caps on the outside and take them apart and look them over. It is important that they are not carboned up too badly. Larry

oliver 66 gas tank

IP: 216.170.248.110 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 11:24:26 AM by Mark Siegman

Hi Larry: Do you know where I can get a replacement Oliver 66 gas tank? Mine has rusted through back by the battery. Also any suggestions on where to look for an oil leak in the hydraulic system. I cannot find any external leaks but I am constantly loosing hydraulic fluid. It may possibly be going into the transmission some how. Thanks Mark Siegman

Re(1): oliver 66 gas tank

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 05:00:49 PM by Larry Harsin

I'll check and see if I have a gas tank. I think a 66 takes the same tank as a 60 and I parted out a 60. You probably have bad bearings and seals on your hydraulic pump causing it to leak into the transmission. Larry

88 help

IP: 158.247.216.21 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 06:36:54 PM by Geoffrey

I have an 88 that won't idle for more then a couple seconds. I have cleaned the carb. and the governor up very good with not much change. I also see a flame come about 10 in out of the exhaust when I rev it up and return it to idle. All the spark plugs are wet when I take them out like all of the fuel isn't getting burned good enough. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks, Geoffrey

Re(1): 88 help

IP: 67.2.248.224 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 08:26:21 PM by Larry Harsin

It might be getting too much fuel. Maybe the float valve is out of adjustment or dirty and letting too much fuel into the carb. Or maybe the air system may be plugged with dirt making it run too rich. Check the air cleaner and the air intake pipe to make sure they aren't plugged. Larry

Re(1): 88 help

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 08:05:30 PM by J Ulmer

It is possible the carb float is sinking due to a hole in the float, gas logged, or collasped due to blowing through the fuel line pressuring the carb bowl. I had a Hough 6 cyl payloader that drove me crazy flooding out the same way!!

Re(2): 88 help

IP: 158.247.216.34 Posted on December 1, 2003 at 05:23:09 PM by Geoffrey

I don't think so. I held the float under water quite a while and when I let go it came right back up. I have got it to idle once in a while now, but not all the time. Was there a governor update available for them. The weights in mine are made of several pieces of 1/8" steel held together with rivets I think. I had never seen one like that before.

Re(3): 88 help

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on December 8, 2003 at 06:17:06 AM by Larry Harsin

That governor has been upgraded. That is a later style governor than 88's came with. But I don't think that is your problem. Since you have checked your carb float, you could have a float out of adjustment or you could have a float valve that is not working. Have you checked the manifold gaskets? Have you checked to make sure your air cleaner isn't obstructed? Larry

550 charging

IP: 207.144.87.201 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 06:31:44 PM by PLOWBOY

What is the minimum and maximum volts a 550 12v. system should operate? Mine makes about 15 or 16 volts ideling with no headlights.

Re(1): 550 charging

IP: 67.2.248.224 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 08:14:53 PM by Larry Harsin

That's about right for short time winter operations. That's the max. That's why you shouldn't leave it hooked up like that for a long time. Be sure to keep water in the battery or it will boil it dry. Larry

Oliver 125 Lawnmower

IP: 69.66.71.110 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 05:03:03 PM by Mike

Hi I found a Oliver 125 Lawnmower that is original but rough condition. Does anyone have any idea what this might be worth as it is and then what it might be worth restored?? Also, I have an I&T Manual for my 1650 but was wondering if an Oliver Service Manual would have more details and be of more help in fixing the tractor.......which manual is better?? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 125 Lawnmower

IP: 67.2.248.224 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 08:19:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If you can get it bought for anywhere under $1000, you have a buy. Restored, they have been known to sell for $3000 - $4000. I prefer the Oliver Manual but it will be more expensive. Larry

550 CHARGING

IP: 207.144.87.197 Posted on November 28, 2003 at 01:01:23 PM by PLOWBOY

Can the red and yellow wires on the voltage regulator be switched to charge more or less?

Re(1): 550 CHARGING

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 05:44:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Just take the red and yellow wires and put both of them on the front post. In the wintertime for short periods of operation, this will help keep your battery charged. After winter season, I would put it back the way it was in the first place as it is hard on the generator or battery after prolonged periods of operation. Larry

88 carb

IP: 158.247.216.34 Posted on November 28, 2003 at 12:36:43 PM by Geoffrey

Can someone tell me the correct needle settings for the TSX-374 carb on an 88?

Re(1): 88 carb

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 05:46:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I would start out with approx. 1 1/2 turns on the load needle and 1 turn open on the idle mixture needle. Then adjust from this point to get it the way it should be. Larry

Gear Pattern for 70 RC

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on November 28, 2003 at 10:43:31 AM by Bob Bennett

Larry, Does a 1939 70 RC have the same gear pattern as the 88 does or does the smaller lever work more than the PTO. Also should the PTO shaft always turn on the rear of the tractor?

Re(1): Gear Pattern for 70 RC

IP: 67.2.242.60 Posted on November 29, 2003 at 05:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

No. The gear pattern is not the same. In the front neutral, you have to the right and forward is low, left and back is 2, left and forward is 5. In the lower neutral, right and forward is 3, right and back is R, left and forward is 6 and left back is 4. The small lever operates the PTO and belt pulley. No, the PTO shaft shouldn't always turn on the rear of the tractor. However, with the PTO disengaged, the action of the oil in the transmission will cause it to turn slowly. It is nothing to be concerned about. Larry

gear pattern

IP: 209.180.79.125 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 09:28:33 PM by Brad VanMeter

Hi Larry, my first tractor, an Oliver row crop 88 gas, I only ever used reverse and 1 forward gear moving snow, last week my neighbor borrowed it, and as he drove out my driveway, i noticed he was going real slow, I didnt think anything of it. Today while messing around, I found some more gears, but had a little trouble finding my way around the gearbox. My neighbor obviously found gears that i couldnt. Do you have a diagram showing the gear patterns? Thanks much!

Re(1): gear pattern

IP: 67.2.249.152 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 09:48:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The gears are in 2 "H" patterns, one above the other. The upper "H" is: Left and up is R2, left and down is 4, right and up is 6 and right and down is 3. The lower "H" is: Left up is R1, left and down is 2, right and up is 5, right and down is 1. There are 2 neutrals in the center of the "H"'s. Larry

550 External Hydraulics

IP: 65.117.137.174 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 05:39:53 PM by RockinB

I,m in the process of installing an original equipment Vickers external valve on my 550.Prolem is the two pipe plugs the manual calls for to be removed won't budge.Can I use some heat on and around these plugs without risking internal damage?

Re(1): 550 External Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.152 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 09:42:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can use heat carefully. Larry

Re(2): 550 External Hydraulics

IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on November 30, 2003 at 08:52:38 PM by j ulmer

You might use the old indian trick of drilling through the plugs (grind or file flat the end and center punch) and then use an easy-out to back the plug out. It can contract making it smaller rather than heat expanding the outside. Be sure to flush out filings!!

muffler gaskets

IP: 204.101.190.199 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 04:15:02 PM by Paul Hodgson

Can you tell me where I might get the two gaskets that go in the end castings of the muffler for a 70 Oliver or cockshutt on the top of manifold at each end. 1946 cockshutt 6 cylinder. Thanks Paul

Re(1): muffler gaskets

IP: 67.2.249.152 Posted on November 27, 2003 at 09:39:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on November 26, 2003 at 07:59:09 AM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. I know someone with a 1949 Oliver Row Crop 88 gas. We replaced the front crankshaft seal earlier this year and it was leaking a little bit, but I think they take some time to wear themselves in. He said he heard a noise on it one day and said it sounded like a bearing. I checked the oil immediately. There was a drop on the dipstick. I changed the oil & filter and got the oil up where it should be and started it with no noise. He ran it again and said it sounded like something was breaking up in it and said it only makes the noise when it the motor gets warm. Could this be a bearing in the motor? I don't think it is the oil pump because it has good oil pressure on the gauge. Thank you for any help you can give us. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 206.105.8.130 Posted on November 26, 2003 at 09:17:58 AM by Bubba

Diagnosing noises third hand is near impossible but I call tell you this: 1) Seals take zero time to "wear in". If it leaks when you first start it, it will always leak. 2) Any time the engine has been allowed to run with an extremely low oil level and then "makes noise", I suspect a spun bearing. Disassembly and inspection is the only way to know for sure.

Re(2): Oliver 88

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on November 26, 2003 at 10:45:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I concur with Bubba. Larry

550 hydraulics questions

IP: 63.125.75.201 Posted on November 26, 2003 at 06:45:33 AM by John from Saginaw

I have recently purchased 1969 550 Oliver it had a front loader mounted on it, but the hydraulics were not hooked up. I rebuilt the front mounted pump (5gpm) vickers) and then mounted it with as good alignment as I could. The pump works o.k.. but it seems very loud when I actuate the movement levers. I would like to hook up this loader to the tractors main hydraulic system but have questions about reservoir capacity because the lift is single acting cyls. and also the proper place to splice into the pressure output line. J.F.S

Re(1): 550 hydraulics questions

IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on November 26, 2003 at 10:42:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm afraid you are not going to have enough oil or pump capacity for a loader with the tractor's hydraulic as they were not designed for loaders. The front pump is what you need to work on. You will have to get your drive line worked out so that the pump will live with it's application. In the Oliver Parts book for the 550 tractor, front drive pump parts are listed and may be available from AGCO. Larry

Oliver 2150

IP: 216.255.24.204 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 07:32:45 PM by olg1355

Where is this pan on the PTO that "everybody" says needs to be removed to keep the rearend from becomeing junk?

Re(1): Oliver 2150

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on November 25, 2003 at 06:58:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO doesn't have a pan. The PTO is fully contained inside the rear end. There is an oil pan on the engine. It does not have anything to do with the PTO. And you wouldn't remove it and leave it off. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 2150

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on November 25, 2003 at 05:50:56 PM by Larry from MD

On one of the other forums they were talking about a splash pan that was only in the 2150's.This supposedly keeps oil from getting where its needed.other simalar olivers don't have it and have less problems.So some people are saying to remove it.I have never worked on one so can't explain it more.

MOTOR OIL

IP: 207.144.98.74 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 06:53:29 PM by PLOWBOY

What is your opinion on running synthetic oil? Some say it causes leaks.

Re(1): MOTOR OIL

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 07:33:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't used synthetic oil, so I have no opinion. Larry

1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 69.66.71.44 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 05:31:22 PM by Mike Webster

Larry We have had trouble with 1650 hydraulic system (its a hydra-lectric)and thinking about replacing the pump. Main thing is system is very slow to raise implements. I check the pressure at the relief valve as instructed in the I&T manual and get 1200PSI at 1/2 throttle and 700PSI at idle. The pilot relief valve is a new style (paragraph 242 in I&T manual - see Note at end of paragraph that shows the pilot relief we have) that is factory preset so I don't think it is my relief valve. Pressure at the couplers varies but is around 1700PSI but hydraulics are very slow to raise implements. Do you think it is our pump that is bad or do I have other problems?? If we do have to get a new pump, we priced pumps at White Dealer and OEM pump is $1,000 and Hy-Capacity pump is $500. I generally prefer OEM but for twice the price is it really worth it? Thanks Mike

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 07:31:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your problem could be your relief valve. Remove the relief valve from your tractor and make sure it is not sticking in the cap. Make sure it can move back and forth in it's passageway. Also, look in where you removed the relief valve. There should be a brass screen in there. It may be ruptured. If it is get a new one. If not, simply clean it out and put it back in. This is a common problem with this style relief valve and it causes symptoms such as you describe. If I were to replace the pump, I would opt for the Hy-Capacity, but you may not need it. Larry

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 206.105.8.131 Posted on November 25, 2003 at 09:21:32 AM by Bubba

Not sure if the I&T manual covers it but I know the factory service manual does. You have 5 (yes 5) relief valves. There are four in the pump cover (thermal relief valves) that are one-time valves; if you blow one you have to replace it. There is also a bypass valve that must be set correctly, this is covered in the operator's manual. Based on your description, there is nothing wrong with your pump. One or more of the valves is not set correctly. I'm assuming you have a new correct hydraulic filter and oil in it.

770/880 hydraulics

IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 12:30:11 PM by Chip

If I add auxillary hydraulics, does it need to be hooked up all of the time? The book shows where to hook up the lines and put in a plug. Is that circuit hooked to the relief valve with the other 2 valve bodies? Can I put couplers on the ports and just hook up hoses when needed? Thanks

Re(1): 770/880 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 07:25:18 PM by Larry Harsin

They are hooked up all the time. You have that circuit because that oil has to go through the external hose since you have blocked the internal passage. Larry

Re(2): 770/880 hydraulics

IP: 64.12.96.206 Posted on November 25, 2003 at 05:29:06 PM by Chip

So if I put quick couplers on those ports, then I need to put a hose from one to the other when I dont have the log splitter hooked up to them?

odd oil filter & base

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 10:50:35 PM by Don-Wi

Hanging up in our shop, we have an Oliver oil filter and base screwed together. Never thought much of it, until I screwed it apart. the threads were similar to a mason jar. It had a small straw, about 1" long in the middle. My grandpa had a Hart-parr 70 and a 77, which would it have been off? how much would something like this be worth? I could get a pn off the filter if this would help. Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(1): odd oil filter & base

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 06:19:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I would guess that it is off of the 77. If it is aluminum or pot metal, it was probably replaced because of being warped and leaking. Therefore, no value to use. Someone might want it to decorate a shelf if it has the Oliver logo on it. If they are made of cast iron and in good working condition, I get $20 for them. Larry

web site and questions

IP: 24.158.151.108 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 07:24:54 PM by Eddie Kerr

Larry, First of all this is a great site. Today is the first time that i have visited your site. I grew up with my grandfather every summer here in Tn. on one of his Olivers, he had a 66,77,and super 88. I have very fond memories of those summers. I am also an old tractor puller for 30+ years now the last 12 as an NTPA tech offical. But i have just purchased a 77 Oliver in Florida that we are going to pickup this Friday. My question is what are the different head options that will work on the 77 block that will flow more air. I have been told that the MF 1100 head will help but they are hard to find. Also what intake and exhaust manifolds will enhance the air flow. Once again great site and look forward to visiting on a regular basis.

Re(1): web site and questions

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 06:13:26 AM by Larry Harsin

A 770 or a 1550 gas head will work on a 77. Also, 770 or 1550 intake manifolds will bolt up. I don't think the MF 1100 will work on a 77. It might possibly work on an 88. Larry

55 winter engine oil

IP: 216.209.244.172 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 01:49:44 PM by Stewart Millar

What should I use , it gets quite cold here down to -40f thanks in advance

Re(1): 55 winter engine oil

IP: 206.105.8.68 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 00:07:33 AM by Bubba

Mobil 1 synthetic in the weight the operator's manual calls for. A block heater wouldn't hurt either. I do both.

Re(2): 55 winter engine oil

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 06:09:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd reccommend 10w-30. There is a magnetic heater that works good. Simply place it on the bottom of the oil pan. Coolant heaters are also very good. Larry

Re(1): 55 winter engine oil

IP: 206.74.182.117 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 01:55:28 PM by PLOWBOY

What is your opinion of synthetic motor oil? I think it causes leaks.

Re(2): 55 winter engine oil

IP: 67.2.249.78 Posted on November 24, 2003 at 07:22:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't used it so I don't have an opinion. Larry

motor and block compatible?

IP: 216.223.179.178 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 08:53:30 AM by Jeff

Hi Larry, I have a 1957 Super 88 S/N 53459 with a cracked block and stuck engine. I have a lead on an inexpensive, clean Oliver 7300 combine S/N OS12579 (motor s/n E158864) in excellent running condition(no heads) and was curious if the motor would fit in the Super 88 without too much difficulty??? If not, know of anyone that might be interested in either or both? I am located in Northcentral Indiana about a half an hour North of Kokomo. Any help would be greatly appreiated. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer. Jeff

Re(1): motor and block compatible?

IP: 67.2.249.99 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 01:33:46 PM by Larry Harsin

That combine engine won't work on a S88. You didn't say if it is a gas or a diesel. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. for an engine. 800-320-6224. Don't know of any buyers. Larry

1650 cockshutt

IP: 199.79.253.138 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 08:47:10 AM by Chris

Hey, larry enjoy your site,I just picked up a 1650 cockshutt model 265-4216 ser,163-973-468, in pretty good shape and cheap, but has no 3pt or hydra drive 3 hydr hook ups,will 1650 oliver parts interchange,and could you help me id year. thanks

Re(1): 1650 cockshutt

IP: 67.2.249.99 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 01:27:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. 1650 Oliver parts will interchange. Your cockshutt 1650 was built in 1965. Larry

Re(1): 1650 cockshutt

IP: 199.79.253.138 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 08:49:45 AM by Chris

P.S WANTED TO KNOW if not having hydr drive, and 3pt was common.

Re(2): 1650 cockshutt

IP: 67.2.249.99 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 01:30:23 PM by Larry Harsin

In our area, most of them were equipped with both of those things. Possibly someone ordered it that way to save money or possibly it is a Wheatland and they didn't need it. Larry

Re(3): 1650 cockshutt

IP: 199.79.253.153 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 01:44:17 PM by chris

thanks Larry, you are always very helpful.

60 oil pump

IP: 216.106.56.16 Posted on November 22, 2003 at 10:59:59 AM by Jason Epperson

I am helping my neighbors restore their 60 row-crop. We put the engine back together and got it running but it doesn't register any oil pressure. I had the oil pump apart before it was put in the engine and I thnk I might have the vanes in the pump in backwards. What is the proper way of installing these vanes. If this isn't the problem then what else should I look for? The crank has been turned and new bearings installed. The pump showed very little wear. We even put a couple of shims on the relief vale to increase the pressure but no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Re(1): 60 oil pump

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on November 22, 2003 at 01:12:59 PM by Bubba

Use a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge and test at one of the oil gallery plugs. Also, have you pulled the valve cover to see if there is oil in the top of the engine? If not, did you remember to actually put oil in it?

Re(2): 60 oil pump

IP: 67.2.249.111 Posted on November 22, 2003 at 06:25:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Looking down at the distributor, the oil pump drive shaft turns clockwise. I'm guessing the vanes are in backwards. The bevelled edge on the vanes should be away from the oil. Larry

Re(2): 60 oil pump

IP: 216.106.56.26 Posted on November 22, 2003 at 06:56:27 PM by Jason Epperson

The engine is full of oil. Before we put the distributor in we made a priming tool to fit over the end of the oil pump so that we could prime it with an electric drill. We had oil coming out of the head bolt with the drilled passage in it. There wasn't a whole lot but there was some. I beleive I have the vanes in backwards. Time to pull the pan off again and check it out.

Re(3): 60 oil pump

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on November 23, 2003 at 04:35:01 PM by Larry from MD

One other place to look is the oil filter.If too much oil flows through the filter its hard for the pump to gain any pressure.

550 Power Steering

IP: 199.174.133.184 Posted on November 21, 2003 at 04:27:51 PM by Gaston Tew

Looking at a 550 that does not have external cylinders, did have at one time. Dealer states steering sector has been replaced with a late model sector that did not require external cylinders. Is this a possiblilty?

Re(1): 550 Power Steering

IP: 67.2.249.111 Posted on November 22, 2003 at 06:22:03 PM by Larry Harsin

I've never heard of a later model not having external cylinders. He could have gotten a steering sector out of an early S55 or early 550. Larry

3Pt. hitch

IP: 216.37.157.109 Posted on November 20, 2003 at 05:56:44 PM by Gregory Salvatore

I am looking for a 3pt hitch for a oliver 88 . that lets my keep my factory swinging draw bar. I would like a heavy duty with 2 hyd cyl. hope you can help. Greg

Re(1): 3Pt. hitch

IP: 67.2.248.96 Posted on November 21, 2003 at 07:12:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt. 888-828-3276. Larry

Web Counters