super 88

IP: 75.104.128.56 Posted on November 28, 2008 at 05:15:43 PM by gary

i have super 88 serial#36660. what year is it and why cant i find a listing with this serial#?

Re(1): super 88

IP: 75.104.188.97 Posted on November 30, 2008 at 06:50:55 AM by Larry Harsin

My book lists it as a late 1955. Don't know why your book doesn't have it. Larry

detroit diesel

IP: 70.144.236.182 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 09:32:01 AM by todd woodfield

Larry, I recently got a tractor with a Detroit diesel 3-71 engine and have pulled with it a couple of times and have done quite well, all the guy's (pulling buddies)say I should put bigger injectors in it and move the governor up to 2300 rpm(now at 1800)your the expert what size injectors can i move up to safely ? everybody tells me something different I,m hoping you can end this debate.

Re(1): detroit diesel

IP: 4.249.201.120 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 10:35:50 AM by Larry from Maryland

You don't say what injectors you have now. I would guess an HV8 or something simmilar, they are a realitively low preasure injector and most guys feel the higher preasure N70's are much better at atomizeing the fuel. They are used on most higher speed engines. You will need to change half of the fuel lines to do it because they are offset so they can be used with 4 valve heads. A lot of guys run the standard injectors and do fine.

Re(2): detroit diesel

IP: 4.249.102.26 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 03:12:33 PM by Larry from Maryland

A few more things to add. High compression pistons and sleeves plus a 4 valve head will give the bigest increase in power. That would be the expencive way to go. The N70 injectors will give some more power and better starting it all depends what you want to spend.

Re(3): detroit diesel

IP: 75.105.54.166 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 05:39:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not an expert on Detroits. Try talking to a Detroit Diesel business and get their opinion. Larry

Re(4): detroit diesel

IP: 70.144.227.4 Posted on November 28, 2008 at 07:01:51 PM by todd woodfield

Larry what about the rpm on a detroit diesel i,m running 1800 is it safe to go to 2300 or maybe more? thanks Todd

Re(5): detroit diesel

IP: 75.104.188.97 Posted on November 30, 2008 at 06:47:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I think 2300 would be o.k., but I wouldn't go any more. Larry

Re(6): detroit diesel

IP: 4.249.201.85 Posted on November 30, 2008 at 11:18:07 AM by Larry from Maryland

Truck engines were often set to run 2100 with 2 valve heads and HV8 injectors. I would think an engine should be ok for short pulls at a little higher rpm. N series injectors should help at a higher rpm.

Re(7): detroit diesel

IP: 68.254.173.61 Posted on November 30, 2008 at 12:45:06 PM by matt

A GUY OUT WEST RUNS 3000 WHEN UNDER LOAD AND HAS DONE SO FOR MANY YEARS WITH OUT ANY PROBLEMS HE ALSO RUNS A TURBO.

oil pump

IP: 67.224.23.255 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 09:16:51 AM by Joe

I am rebuilding a 1650 oliver motor complete overhaul.looking for an oil pump. I have been told about 800.00$ will get you a reman.one.That is alot for an oil pump. need advice!

Re(1): oil pump

IP: 75.105.54.166 Posted on November 27, 2008 at 05:42:58 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have good bearings etc, I would be tempted to put the one I have back in. Inspect the pump and if the shaft isn't loose in the housing, I'd try it. Larry

Re(2): oil pump

IP: 67.224.23.255 Posted on November 28, 2008 at 06:50:51 AM by Joe

the pump I have is a vane pump how do you check them? thank you for the help Joe

Re(3): oil pump

IP: 75.104.188.97 Posted on November 30, 2008 at 06:45:54 AM by Larry Harsin

The vane pump is used in a 1650 gas. They RARELY give any problems. I would go ahead and use it. Larry

770 wiring

IP: 24.247.120.0 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 08:59:46 PM by Mike

I have a '66 oliver 770 and I am having problems re-wiring. I have a wiring diagram but i can't tell how the amp light is wired. Does it go to the ignition switch? When I had it connected to "B" on the ignition switch the oil and amp lights stayed on all the time.

Re(1): 770 wiring

IP: 75.104.182.20 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 10:49:31 PM by Larry Harsin

It is supposed to be connected to "I", the ignition post instead of "B". Larry

over under

IP: 97.112.119.6 Posted on November 24, 2008 at 07:07:50 PM by scott

have a 1800 wondering how much trouble to convert from staight drive shaft to overunder and what kind of cost

Re(1): over under

IP: 75.104.182.20 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 05:47:13 AM by Larry Harsin

If you could get an over/under from a 1750, 1755, 1850, 1855 or 1955, it wouldn't be too hard of a conversion. It would be the cost of finding a good unit etc, that would be the problem. Larry

Oliver 88

IP: 63.240.123.11 Posted on November 24, 2008 at 02:11:52 PM by Mike Odette

I have a 1947 88 on propane that I just started pulling with . I don't know if its a 231 or a 265ci engine. I would like to get more power out of it ! My thoughts are higher comp,advanced timing or more fuel flow . I have been told to go with a larger bore . At this time I would like to see what I can do with what I have . What can you suggest to me --M

Re(1): Oliver 88

IP: 75.104.182.20 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 05:43:01 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to experiment and see what happens. I would be willing to bet that you have 265 cubic inches right now. Call Korves Bros. and see if they can tell you if the 3 7/8" pistons would help. That would take it up to 283 ci. 618-939-6681. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88

IP: 63.240.123.11 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 06:33:44 AM by Mike Odette

What do you think about compression,propane flow and ign timming ? ----M

Re(3): Oliver 88

IP: 75.104.182.20 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 04:56:07 PM by Larry Harsin

That tractor is probably all set up for using it the way it is. If you start messing with all of this, then you will want to go to a larger bore later and all this other will be messed up. If you are not satisfied with the way it is, take the head off and see what you have. Go from there. Larry

White 2-70

IP: 70.44.216.88 Posted on November 24, 2008 at 11:19:54 AM by Codie

I saw a White 2-70 recently that had one 12 volt battery instead of two 6 volt batteries. What would have to be changed to only use one battery?

Re(1): White 2-70

IP: 75.104.182.20 Posted on November 25, 2008 at 05:39:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Just remove the two 6 volt batteries and put in one 12 volt battery. You will also have to remove one of the cables. Larry

1800 Brakes

IP: 97.112.119.6 Posted on November 23, 2008 at 07:21:13 PM by scott

thanks for the info on the PTO shaft Im putting it back together and Im missing the snapring The brakes dont work very well I took them apart they dont look that worn what problems should I look for? Quite a bit of dirt in there and looks like the springs should be replaced

Re(1): 1800 Brakes

IP: 75.105.51.221 Posted on November 24, 2008 at 06:29:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Cleaning them up is the standard procedure. New springs is the thing to do. Before you put the springs on, clean the balls and ramps and get them all shined up and put white grease on the balls. Also, make sure there is no binding on the linkages so that everything works freely. Larry

1650 Fenders

IP: 75.105.91.23 Posted on November 22, 2008 at 05:05:53 PM by Kevin

I put a Hinniker Cab on my 1650, which I'm pretty pleased with, and no longer need the fenders or mounting brackets. Where is the best place to list them for sale?

Re(1): 1650 Fenders

IP: 75.104.188.65 Posted on November 22, 2008 at 09:37:51 PM by Larry Harsin

You could advertise them in Oliver Heritage Magazine. www.oliverinformation.com They will sell right away. They are in demand. Larry

1800 pto shaft

IP: 97.112.119.6 Posted on November 22, 2008 at 09:20:38 AM by scott collver

what holds the pto shaft in position

Re(1): 1800 pto shaft

IP: 75.104.188.65 Posted on November 22, 2008 at 12:38:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm assuming you are talking about the drive shaft that operates the PTO. That is held in there with a plug and a snap ring. Larry

1450 power steering

IP: 98.197.26.24 Posted on November 20, 2008 at 06:52:36 PM by Dale

I have a 1450 with power steering that turns smoothly in one direction but is very stiff and hard to turn in the other direction. I have an operating manual but it doesn't discuss adjusting the power steering anywhere in the manual. Can you give me any direction?

Re(1): 1450 power steering

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 20, 2008 at 10:36:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Your tractor was built in Italy by Fiat, for Oliver. I don't have much experience with the Fiat Olivers. Call Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 and see if they can help you with this. Larry

1850 hydra power

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on November 19, 2008 at 08:29:59 AM by jeremy

I have an 1967 1850 with a hydra-power that needs new seals and sprague clutch. Is it difficult for a person with average mechanical skills to tear one apart and rebuild it? What else in these should be fixed when you have it apart? Are there kits available to do what I'm trying to do (seals, spague clutch, etc)? Are there places that do an exchange program that would take mine and I purchase a rebuilt one? Are they expensive? Thanks in advance for your advice, you always are helpful.

Re(1): 1850 hydra power

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 20, 2008 at 10:33:43 PM by Larry Harsin

It would be difficult for a first timer, but it is possible if you have a good Shop Manual. You can get one from the museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. While you have it apart, I would check the valve seat for the lube circuit. If it is bad, I would certainly replace that. There is a gasket and seal package. You can get it from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Tom will understand about the valve seat for the lube circuit, too, if you need that part. I don't know of any exchange, you can ask Tom or you could check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. I'm guessing that the seals package and the sprag clutch would run approx. $400. This is just a guess. Larry

880 Power Booster

IP: 209.56.53.1 Posted on November 18, 2008 at 11:35:18 AM by Alex

I am currently beginning a restoration at college in Burlington Iowa on a 880 Oliver gas with a wide front, My boss had this tractor sitting in the shed for a few years and I wanted to get it running again. See the motor had a cracked block, and i originally planned to just change the motor out and get it it running again. But now have changed our mind to do a full restoration. The 880 Has a power booster on it, not sure it works. Im not sure how the power booster even works. I cant find any kind of diagram on the internet or anything. Could you explain it to me some? And give some advice to get it to work again. I have always had a thing for the old oliver tractors and im looking forward to riding this one in parades with my boss. Thanks

Re(1): 880 Power Booster

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 18, 2008 at 12:23:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I am well supplied with 880 used parts. I do have an engine block. You won't be able to make a determination about the power booster until you get the tractor running. It would be a good idea to get an Operator's Manual, even though it wouldn't help in this situation. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. You can call me anytime. Evenings work best. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): 880 Power Booster

IP: 209.56.53.1 Posted on November 19, 2008 at 07:30:52 AM by Alex Meierotto

Well we had the engine running when we pulled it into the shop. and my boss tried the powerbooster. but he didnt notice any kindof difference in speed. therefore we think that it isnt any good. Also I already have a block.

Paint and Decals

IP: 4.252.236.187 Posted on November 16, 2008 at 08:56:57 AM by John

I have early 880 Oliver, What in Your opinion would be The best Paint and Decals to use for the best quality and outcome? Also what could You tell me about the New aftermarket plastic ovals for the nose, what ones are of the best quality or is there no differance? Also what are the paint codes to be used for this tractor? Also I am looking for some parts for the power booster clutch and need info as to whom to call?

Re(1): Paint and Decals

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 16, 2008 at 07:34:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I use the regular Meadow Green and Clover White from AGCO. I have found it to be very satisfactory and the colors are correct and the price is right. Korves Bros. have the best plastic ovals 618-939-6681. Lyle Dumont has the best decals. There is a link to his decals and an order form, on our main page. Scroll down the Oliver shields and click on the 4th one from the bottom. His phone is 641-622-2592. I might have some used parts for the power booster clutch, let me know what you need. 712-362-2966. I do not have the sprag clutch. Larry

Oliver 770

IP: 64.24.148.95 Posted on November 16, 2008 at 05:57:20 AM by Paul Schwenk

I own a 770 which was purchase in a auction back in 1990,Serial no. is 74 8104873 the serial number tag is screw on lower left side of dash,i think this is a 1959 year tractor, but i was told at time of auction that this tractor was a prototype dealer tractor no hydr., pto only and it looks like the one exactly on the front cover of the oliver heritage magazine oct/november 2008 but mine is gas,i have been told by some other farmers in my area that this looks like someone has try to update it,because it should have a metal grill and rounded fenders not square and not a plastic grill what do you think.

Re(1): Oliver 770

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 16, 2008 at 07:28:21 PM by Larry Harsin

If it is a 1959 -- that serial number doesn't work. The serial numbers for 1959, began with # 71011, the serial numbers for 1960, began with # 84554. So, if your serial number was 74810, it would be a 1959. But there should be only 3 numbers after that for the gearing, but you are giving us 4873 (4 numbers). Are you sure this is the serial number and not the specification number? Now, if your 770 is a 1959 model, it was built with a metal grill and clam shell fenders. So, someone must have changed them, if it is a 1959. That grill is fiberglass instead of plastic. Larry

440 tractor

IP: 207.119.119.167 Posted on November 15, 2008 at 02:47:50 PM by Barry Lauhoff

Hi, Hope you can help me, my father has a 440 oliver and I may buy it, I am open for your opinion about the value of this tractor. We only have a 5 acre place and will mow and do light work. We now have a 184 IH and tho it it OK it just dosen't have much power. I just had a 6000 ford and that was a real piece of work from Ford, wasan't it!!! The 440 3 pt. dosen't lift, thinks something came un-hooked. Are any parts avaidable? Sure you will be a great help to me! I am a mech. and can work on most things.

Re(1): 440 tractor

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 15, 2008 at 07:04:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not well versed on the Oliver 440. Call Ollie Schaefer in Greenville IL. He knows about 440's. 618-664-3050. We have seen completely restored ones sell for $10,000. They are desired by many. Larry

Re(2): 440 tractor

IP: 207.119.119.167 Posted on November 17, 2008 at 09:18:53 AM by Barry Lauhoff

Thanks a lot, I left Ollie a message, I have reading articles about this tractor and they say there are some options that I am sure make a diff. in price.

1750 clicking when in motion

IP: 74.221.35.82 Posted on November 14, 2008 at 02:23:38 PM by Ed Sohm

My 1750 clicks when moving. The sound comes from the left rear tire area and is not regularly spaced. It does speed up when moving faster but is still kinda random. Nothing seems to bind or anything, just the sound. Any thoughts on where to start? I don't want to be destroying something without knowing it. Both brakes work very well.

Re(1): 1750 clicking when in motion

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 14, 2008 at 09:24:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Check the rim clamp lugs. Maybe some or all of them need to be tightened a bit. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC 1955- Component Colors

IP: 69.208.9.98 Posted on November 12, 2008 at 04:30:14 PM by Terry Allen

What was the factory color for the lug bolts, front and rear- green or unpainted? What components were not green- Distributor cap, Generator, Coil, Wiring harness, others????. I'm sure the grill was yellow.?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC 1955- Component Colors

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 12, 2008 at 08:49:20 PM by Larry Harsin

The grill was yellow and everything else was Meadow Green. (Bolts and all) Larry

550 oliver

IP: 67.235.135.45 Posted on November 12, 2008 at 08:32:46 AM by Jerrold

I have a 550 oliver that the right lift arm keeps leaking I have changed the seal three times. Can you tell me how to stop this leak or will I need to change out the bushing on the shaft to stop the oil leak.

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 12, 2008 at 08:47:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I would replace those bushings. I don't have them. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 550 oliver

IP: 209.50.18.9 Posted on November 18, 2008 at 08:57:33 PM by B A Star

Have you taken the hydraulic reseviour breather apart and cleaned it? It is located under the seat. MY 550 leaked like yours and quit when I cleaned the breather. It was completely packed with dirt.

1250 Oliver

IP: 72.2.201.67 Posted on November 11, 2008 at 07:14:11 PM by JNP

I have the opportunity to buy a 1966 1250 Oliver gas. It runs good and is in overall good condition, however it needs clutch work as it will not move itself at all. When not running the transmission seems to shift smoothly. How much can I expect to find wrong since it will not move at all? Is there a good chance it will need more than just a clutch?

Re(1): 1250 Oliver

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 11, 2008 at 09:27:15 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934 and Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 to find out availability of these parts. Larry

oliver 66 hydraulic pump

IP: 208.86.163.113 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 06:01:36 PM by scott mills

Larry, My oliver 66 hydraulic pump is leaking around the levers on each side of the unit. It is also leaking around the base. Appears to need knew gaskets. Are the gaskets around the levers easy to fix. Where can I get parts? thanks for you help again. I was the one trying to figure out if I had std bearings or not. Tractor runs great.

Re(1): oliver 66 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 08:14:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It needs new gaskets and new O rings on the levers. I have these parts, if you want to give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 72.23.57.31 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 04:43:45 AM by Scott

You have probably answer this a thousand times before, but I have to ask. We can't find the manual for the tractor, so what should be idle RPM on a 1951 "77" be, and what should the timing be set to? Also I have came across a full disk brake assembly for a 77, is it as simple as just removing the drums and bolting in place? We are not so much worried about originality as functionality as we use the tractor regularly.

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 06:48:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Idle RPM should be approx. 600. At low idle, the timing should be set to 4 degrees before top dead center. The disk brake change over is not as simple as it sounds. You should look at a Parts Manual and a Shop Manual, then you will understand what I am talking about. You can get these manuals and a new Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry

Super 55 Tach

IP: 98.30.139.227 Posted on November 9, 2008 at 02:47:25 PM by Roy Fleming

How do I get the Tach drive from the engine block. Do I have to remove the distributer first?

Re(1): Super 55 Tach

IP: 75.104.189.118 Posted on November 9, 2008 at 09:51:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You don't have to remove the distributer. The Tach should just unscrew and slide away from the engine block. It is held on by 4 screws. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Tach

IP: 98.30.139.227 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 08:08:49 AM by Roy

Larry. I am still confused. I took the cover off of the gear housing(5small & 2 long screws) which exposed the helical gears. It appears that there are two alignment pins at the rear of the gear housing. Can this entire housing just be pulled off of the engine block as a unit or do I need to remove the shaft assembly which actually drives the cable first?

Re(3): Super 55 Tach

IP: 98.30.139.227 Posted on November 10, 2008 at 01:43:53 PM by roy

Got it fixed. Thanks

1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.77.66.230 Posted on November 6, 2008 at 07:20:12 AM by Kevin

I drained and replaced the hydraulic fluid on my 1850 and it appears that the pump has lost its prime. The power steering does not work and the 3-point hitch arms do not move. There are no external cylinders connected to the hydraulic system. Do I just need to run it for a while?

Re(1): 1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.105.54.128 Posted on November 7, 2008 at 06:18:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Run it for awhile, it should prime up right away. Do you have the hydraulic oil above the add mark? It would have taken 4 gal. or so. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.77.66.230 Posted on November 7, 2008 at 08:03:12 AM by Kevin

The level is between add and full.

Re(3): 1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.105.54.128 Posted on November 7, 2008 at 07:59:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Did you try running it? Larry

Re(4): 1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 67.142.130.20 Posted on November 8, 2008 at 09:12:14 PM by Kevin

The tractor sat for a couple of days, after finishing other repairs, I started the tractor and the hydraulics work fine. I still have a pto leak that I can't figure out. The lower shaft is hollow. the oil runs out the hollow shaft. Two Oliver experts said I needed a plug in the end of the shaft. (see new posting)

Re(5): 1850 Oliver Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.105.54.128 Posted on November 9, 2008 at 07:08:00 AM by Larry Harsin

They sort of leak there anyway. I answered the other post by saying didn't know what to say. They sometimes sort of leak there anyway. Those tractors are naturally wet in there and when a little oil gets in there, it has to come out somewhere. Larry

high idle miss

IP: 70.157.33.4 Posted on November 4, 2008 at 05:35:01 PM by 1850

i have a 1850 with a miss at high idle. i have the bronze gear that i believe goes below the pump just wandring to what extent the job is. also would you happen to have the part numbers for the bearings and components fo the front spindle assembly on a row crop wide front cant find them in the book thanks

Re(1): high idle miss

IP: 75.105.54.128 Posted on November 4, 2008 at 10:00:57 PM by Larry Harsin

This miss or flutter that you are talking about is common to a lot of Perkins engines. Some do it worse than others. You may spend a lot of money and time and not be able to correct it. If the engine pulls good and starts good, I'd be inclined to leave it alone. It is up to you. I'll look in the parts books tomorrow for the parts numbers. I need to know if you have the heavy front spindles or the light ones. I need the casting number on the front hub. Larry

Re(2): high idle miss

IP: 74.241.146.105 Posted on November 6, 2008 at 10:00:10 AM by jerradmc

HERE ARE THE NUMBERS, THANKS 155193A

Re(3): high idle miss

IP: 75.105.54.128 Posted on November 8, 2008 at 09:11:46 AM by Larry Harsin

The 155193A first came on the early 100 series tractors. The inner bearing: 102729A, LM501349, LM501310. The bearing outer: 102720A, LM67048, LM67010. This uses the same seal and wear cut as the 77 - 88, 163101, K738. Larry

1550 3 point fix

IP: 65.118.253.132 Posted on November 3, 2008 at 07:11:50 PM by Dave Drury

This is not so much a question as a revelation. I acquired my "67" 1550 three years ago. The three point didn't work when I got it, so I did all the usual. Made sure the bolt by my right heel was screwed in, popped the top and checked the "O" rings on the servo valve. I stopped short of pulling off the whole top because I didn't have the shop, hoist,etc. Then one morning I woke up and studied my shop manual, and parts book. The bolt in the parts book (by my right heel) looked longer in the book. So, I drained the hydraulic, pulled out the bolt with the locknut, and measured the depth to the ball bearing that must be depressed for the three point to work. The bolt was a half inch to short!! After a quick trip to the hardware store and a little work with a 1/2" by 20tpi die and the three point works just fine. Why would anyone have put in a shorter bolt? Is there a problem leaving the grade two bolt I made in there, or should I replace it with a hard bolt like the one that was to short?

Re(1): 1550 3 point fix

IP: 75.104.182.118 Posted on November 4, 2008 at 00:51:23 AM by Larry Harsin

It won't hurt anything to leave in the bolt you purchased. We'll never know why people do the things they do! Larry

550 Tranmission Bearing

IP: 20.132.69.41 Posted on November 3, 2008 at 01:09:01 AM by Dennis

Upon your recommendation I was cleaning out my 550 tranmission case with diesel fuel durring a bull gear change when I found bearing needles in the debris. Looks like the countershaft rear bearing went out. Can I change just that bearing without tearing apart the whole transmission?

Re(1): 550 Tranmission Bearing

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on November 3, 2008 at 06:55:14 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe you are going to have to do a complete tear down on the transmission, to replace that bearing. Larry

Oliver 66 Orchard Model

IP: 209.213.252.28 Posted on November 1, 2008 at 06:48:32 AM by John Foreman

I have an Oliver 66 orchard model for sale. My Dad bought it used back in the early '60s. The implement dealer painted it green and white over the old green, red and yellow and cut back the fenders etc. It fancied it up at the time but disguised it's real identity as an orchard model and made it look more like a Standard 66. All the original "stuff" is there including the holes where the exhaust system used to exit the cowling, the placement for lights etc. The only thing that's been changed is a switch to a 12 volt electrical system. The tractor runs well and would take little to restore totally. What would it be worth in running condition with only minor surface rust and a few dents and divots? Don't want to get "ripped off". There's a guy in Southern Ontario who collects Olivers and Hart Parrs and is willing to pay what I believe to be a sum considerably less than its value considering the rarity of the tractor. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 66 Orchard Model

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on November 2, 2008 at 12:30:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has been cut up, it would affect the value of it. If the orchard sheet metal has been cut off, I'd say, being it is more like a standard 66, it would be in the area of $1500 - $2000. Switching to 12 volt wouldn't matter to most people. Jim Heaslip in Ontario, makes reproduction orchard sheet metal, if you are interested in reparing it yourself. 905-779-3910 Larry

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