"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - November, 2009 Archives


880 starter

IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on December 5, 2009 at 04:34:01 PM by Tyler

Larry, I have a 59 880 gas tractor. The starter, when I turn the key, will spin, but not engage the flywheel. As the starter is of an older style, the parts houses here cannot test it. The gear spins up into place redily. (I took it apart and looked for obvious problems) Should I be looking elsewhere before I invest in a new starter? I replaced the solinoid switch ($36), but do not wish to troubleshoot by hanging parts.

Re(1): 880 starter

IP: 75.104.161.173 Posted on December 6, 2009 at 07:06:33 AM by Larry Harsin

If you took it apart and can't see any thing obvious, it is a bit mysterious. It sounds like a broken Bendix spring. I'd take the starter to a starter repair shop and have it repaired. In case you don't have a place to get this done, I get them repaired at Worthington Ag Parts. 800-533-5304 . Larry


70rc power lift

IP: 204.228.226.16 Posted on December 4, 2009 at 02:18:16 PM by Leland

I have a row crop 70, trying to find any info about the power lift,,ie how it works and what and how parts are connected to this,,,thank you

Re(1): 70rc power lift

IP: 75.104.189.72 Posted on December 4, 2009 at 04:23:46 PM by Larry Harsin

It's just a mechanical clutch, self contained, similar to a mechanical lift on a plow in some respects. It is driven off of the transmission with a worm gear. Larry


880 Oliver

IP: 70.197.103.147 Posted on December 1, 2009 at 07:38:44 AM by Dusty

Hey larry i have a couple questions. One will 880 sheet metal and mainly the grill work with a super 88 frame? And two will super 55 front 6 bolt hubs work on the 66-880 without different bearing cups? Thank you! Dusty

Re(1): 880 Oliver

IP: 75.104.189.72 Posted on December 2, 2009 at 09:36:39 PM by Larry Harsin

1. I havn't tried that, so I am not sure. 2. I don't think that will work because a S55 has different hubs than a 66-880. Larry


plow hook up

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 12:44:18 PM by Jeremy

I have a question regarding hooking my 1850 oliver to a 710 international plow. We really struggled with this plow. The rear cylinder was a one way cylinder with one hose. I backed the bleader valve (under the seat) open a couple turns, then hooked up the hose. The three point worked fine. The rear cylinder raised and lowered, but wouldn't let the rear of the plow go more than 4 inches down into the ground. It seemed like it wouldn't suck into the ground. I had to continually hold the remote to keep it down. Also when I raised the 3 point, it would raise the rear cylinder and the rear cylinder wouldn't go back down unless I ran it back down with the remote lever. This is a problem when the draft raises and lowers like it should when plowing. The only other vairable was that the plow was not scoured and very rusty, but the shares and shins were in good shape. Is there something wrong with my tractor? Would should I do to make this combination work correctly? I'm sure a two way cylinder would help a lot, but I would like to know what I can do to make what I have work. Thanks a ton for any and all help.

Re(1): plow hook up

IP: 75.104.189.93 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 02:00:44 PM by Larry Harsin

The only way you can make that work is to plumb into the power beyond and put in a single spool valve to control that one way cylinder. It would be a lot simpler to buy a 2 way cylinder and put it on and be done with it. Larry

Re(2): plow hook up

IP: 68.112.145.203 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 06:46:02 PM by jeremy

Thanks for the information. I have the power beyond plumbed with a 2 spool valve for a loader that is currently off the tractor. Then this set up should work correct? I 100% agree on buying a 2 way cylinder. Thanks a bunch.

Re(3): plow hook up IP: 75.104.189.93 Posted on December 1, 2009 at 05:04:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That should work. Larry


oliver 1650 won't start.

IP: 75.97.62.95 Posted on November 29, 2009 at 04:34:02 PM by chris woodruff

I have an oliver 1650 with new battery and rebuilt starter we still can't figure out why it won't start. Lately this tractor has been giving us a lot of problems starting it up.

Re(1): oliver 1650 won't start.

IP: 75.104.189.93 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 06:44:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Is it a gas or a diesel? Does the engine turn over at all? Larry

Re(2): oliver 1650 won't start.

IP: 75.97.62.95 Posted on December 1, 2009 at 05:02:13 PM by chris woodruff

It is a diesel and all it does is make a click noise. nothing happens..

Re(3): oliver 1650 won't start.

IP: 75.104.189.72 Posted on December 2, 2009 at 09:39:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Turn on the lights and then try the starter with the lights on. If the lights dim or go out, I would say to check the battery connections first. Then, have the batteries tested. If they check o.k., then, have the solenoid and the starter tested at a starter repair shop. Larry


1850

IP: 75.105.2.177 Posted on November 28, 2009 at 02:00:47 PM by scottmanson

Hi larry could tell me torque on the rocker rail nuts thanks. Scott

Re(1): 1850

IP: 75.104.189.93 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 06:32:59 AM by Larry Harsin

It is 45 foot pounds. Larry


Hydraulic reset plows

IP: 66.31.121.152 Posted on November 27, 2009 at 06:17:41 PM by dan

Are the hydraulic reset plows much good today, or would they be more trouble than its worth?

Re(1): Hydraulic reset plows

IP: 75.104.190.114 Posted on November 27, 2009 at 08:52:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd rather have a spring reset plow. Larry


1955 super77 hydro leak

IP: 74.75.204.139 Posted on November 26, 2009 at 04:07:29 PM by Fred

Hi Larry, Loosing hydro fluid in the differental,What is the best way to cure this problem? Thanks Fred.

Re(1): 1955 super77 hydro leak

IP: 75.104.190.114 Posted on November 27, 2009 at 12:38:10 PM by Larry Harsin

If the pump works o.k. otherwise, it will probably take new seals and bearings. If it doesn't work, send me your pump and I'll repair it for you. Larry

Re(2): 1955 super77 hydro leak

IP: 69.221.164.99 Posted on November 27, 2009 at 09:46:41 PM by Terry Allen

What is involved to lift the pump off the tractor? Does something need to be removed from the transmission?

Re(3): 1955 super77 hydro leak

IP: 99.194.197.244 Posted on November 29, 2009 at 07:15:53 PM by oleblu

Terry Allen, the long pto shaft needs to be removed from the rear of the tractor. That's what drives the pump and goes right through the gear of the pump.

Re(4): 1955 super77 hydro leak

IP: 75.104.189.93 Posted on November 30, 2009 at 02:15:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is right. I didn't answer that question very well. Thanks for picking up on that, guys. Larry


Super Rear Gears

IP: 64.208.214.225 Posted on November 25, 2009 at 03:15:52 AM by Jerod Hornby

I have a super 77 that I pull. I found a Super 88 with high speed rear gears. Are they interchangable or do I have to transfer everything onto the new frame and rearend? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Super Rear Gears

IP: 75.104.190.114 Posted on November 27, 2009 at 12:36:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Parts from the 77 family will not interchange with parts from the 88 family. Larry


Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 76.253.143.185 Posted on November 24, 2009 at 09:13:46 PM by Terry Allen

SN is 263159 E. What does the "E" mean?

Re(1): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 75.105.52.200 Posted on November 24, 2009 at 10:34:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 RC Gas1948

IP: 99.164.110.41 Posted on December 20, 2009 at 06:43:30 PM by Terry Allen

Found information on the suffix meanings after the SN. "E" stands for single front wheel.


1600 Carburetor

IP: 69.15.178.241 Posted on November 24, 2009 at 10:39:32 AM by Gerry Murphy

Would a 1550 carb work OK on a 1600? the engine displacement is basically the same. I found a source for new 1550 carb and wondered if it would work.

Re(1): 1600 Carburetor

IP: 75.105.52.200 Posted on November 24, 2009 at 04:35:27 PM by Larry Harsin

It might work, but it won't bolt up because the flange size is different. You can get a carb for you 1600 from Valu-Bilt. They have both rebuilts and new ones. 888-828-3276. Larry


2150 Hydraulic leak

IP: 98.135.23.198 Posted on November 22, 2009 at 12:59:37 PM by Chris Zimmerman

2150 4wd the hydraulic fluid gets into the rear end gear lube. We have changed the pan,pump,gaskets and still seem to have a problem. Any insight on what else to do?

Re(1): 2150 Hydraulic leak

IP: 75.104.183.149 Posted on November 22, 2009 at 03:34:50 PM by Larry Harsin

That's about everything to do. I don't know what to tell you. Recheck everything - Good Luck ! ! ! Larry


1900 oil filter

IP: 74.206.45.107 Posted on November 20, 2009 at 06:42:52 PM by regan

Do you know what the part number is for the Oil filter Out of a 1900 C series. It has a full flow system

Re(1): 1900 oil filter

IP: 75.104.183.150 Posted on November 20, 2009 at 07:52:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the number. That is for a Detroit Diesel and someplace like NAPA would have the filter. Larry

Re(2): 1900 oil filter

IP: 98.80.150.82 Posted on November 29, 2009 at 06:07:22 PM by Cleon Couey

Wix makes a filter for it. Part number 51503(bypass) 51133 (full flow). Any parts store that carries Wix should have it or be able to get it. Hope this helps.

Re(1): 1900 oil filter

IP: 4.255.43.147 Posted on November 22, 2009 at 07:22:10 AM by Larry West

The AGCO parts book lists it with an AGCO part number of 105256AS.


Oliver 60

IP: 74.33.123.198 Posted on November 20, 2009 at 04:01:50 PM by Jerry Smith

I have an oliver 60 serial#623860 looking to find overhaul kit. hard to find. Is there a newer oliver engine that will fit into this tractor? or different overhaul kit.

Re(1): Oliver 60

IP: 75.104.183.150 Posted on November 20, 2009 at 07:51:15 PM by Larry Harsin

No. there isn't. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 and Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 60

IP: 72.171.0.144 Posted on November 21, 2009 at 05:02:24 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

A 66 engine will bolt in, but the exhaust hole in the hood would have to be re drilled. I got everything I needed to overhaul my 60 from Maibach.


Oliver 77 will not start

IP: 208.126.21.72 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 09:59:20 PM by Kelly

Greetings - Currently I have a Oliver 77 that will not start. I have replaced all electrical comps. The strange thing is: if you pull the coil wire out of the dist cap hole apprx 1/4" ( to see if there is fire) it will run, install the coil wire back in the dist coil hole...it WILL not start. This tractor has been converted to 12volt prior to my owning. New parts installed: points, dist cap, rotor, condesor, coil, coil wire. Any ideas? I am very puzzled.

Re(1): Oliver 77 will not start

IP: 75.104.183.150 Posted on November 20, 2009 at 08:08:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what to suggest. You'll just have to keep trying and see what figures out. Maybe you should make sure you have the right heat range spark plugs for the tractor. The Oliver 77 takes like a D-16 in Champion brand. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 77 will not start

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on November 21, 2009 at 06:38:12 AM by Don

Sounds like a bad condensor or your points gap is wrong. Also if it has been converted to 12v make sure there is a resistor in line to the coil or a ballasted coil or it will burn points out like there is no tomorrow.

Re(1): Oliver 77 will not start

IP: 72.171.0.144 Posted on November 21, 2009 at 05:09:08 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Are the plugs black? AC Delco 87 would be a better choice than Champion's. I had a similar problem with my 60. It was converted to 12V and I had installed a coil with an internal ballast resistor. It would crank fine but not start until the starter button was released. Turned out the battery had a bad cell. The cranking voltage was fine for a 6V starter, but was too low for a 12V ignition system.


88 torque

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 06:22:25 AM by Jeremy

I have a gas 88. Can you tell me the torque specs for the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel on to the crankshaft as well as the torqe specs on the pressure plate bolts? Also what oil goes in the belt pulley. 90w? Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 88 torque

IP: 75.104.189.242 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 10:01:57 PM by Larry Harsin

For the flywheel on the crankshaft, about 60 lbs. On the pressure plate bolts, about 35 - 40. No more than 40. 90w will work in the belt pulley - the same as the transmission uses. Larry


880 Power steering pump

IP: 74.103.153.249 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 04:56:19 AM by Steve

Larry - On Oct. 1 - the Power steering pump on an Oliver 880 could be rebuilt. It is a Vickers Vane pump mounted on the backside of the Generator. We were wondering what a cost estimate would be. There is pretty much damage internally. Probably needs a seal kit, vanes / rotor, pressure plate, and ring. We would appreciate your advice. Maybe you know of a place we could find used ?

Re(1): 880 Power steering pump

IP: 75.104.189.242 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 09:58:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I get my pumps from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I send the broken to him to have fixed. Larry


carburator on 770

IP: 208.39.173.42 Posted on November 16, 2009 at 11:52:42 AM by Roy Coale

I am in the process of restoring a 1958 770. While rebuilding the carburator, the main jet on the bottom broke off. I did manage to get the broken piece out.Any idea where I can get just the main jet.

Re(1): carburator on 770

IP: 75.104.161.69 Posted on November 17, 2009 at 05:30:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He'll ship one to you. Larry


OLIVER 88

IP: 96.18.17.165 Posted on November 15, 2009 at 05:20:20 PM by MIKE

I HAVE REMOVED THE TRANS TIN TOP COVER AND WELDED ALL THE CRACKS FROM THE INSIDE . HOW MUCH ROOM IS THERE UNDER THE COVER ? I WILL IF I HAVE TO GRIND DOWN THE WELDS. I WONDER IF I COULD SPRAY BOTH SIDES WITH BED LINER WHAT DO YOU THINK ? WHERE CAN I BUY A GASKET ?

Re(1): OLIVER 88

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 15, 2009 at 05:38:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The part number for the gasket is K662. You can get one from an AGCO Dealer. If you don't have a dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I think there is plenty of room for your welds. I don't think I would put bed liner on the inside. The outside would be fine. Larry


Oliver

IP: 24.255.80.212 Posted on November 15, 2009 at 06:57:59 AM by Donald

I have a old Olvier tractor i'm trying out what kind it is. This is the Serial number off the Engine FIAT 854-A102-116740 can you please help. I need to order some parts for it but dont know what model it is.

Re(1): Oliver

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 15, 2009 at 05:35:08 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a 1465, but I'm not sure. There should be a serial number tag on the lower left side of the instrument panel. See if it is the same number. Larry

Re(2): Oliver

IP: 24.255.80.212 Posted on November 15, 2009 at 06:15:30 PM by DONALD

MR. LARRY I HAVE A TAG THAT CAME OFF THE DASH THE MODEL NUMBER IS 435-22024 THE SERIAL NUMBER IS 515201. I HAVE TREID TO US THESE NUMBERS TO FIND THE MODEL BUT CAN'T. iF YOU CAN'T TELL ME WHAT MODEL THIS IS CAN YOU TELL ME HOW TO FIND OUT. I WANT TO ORDER SOME PARTS FOR IT BUT CAN'T THANKS

Re(3): Oliver

IP: 75.104.189.242 Posted on November 18, 2009 at 10:19:56 PM by Larry Harsin

According to the Hotline Farm Equipment Guide, the Fiat 4 cylinder 1355 beginning serial number in 1969 was 503287. The beginning serial number in 1970 was 512698. The beginning serial number in 1971 was 523254. So, that would put your serial number of 515201 being built in 1970. All of the other Fiat Oliver serial numbers begin with different numbers than 5. So, I would say your Fiat Oliver is a 1365 built in 1970. Larry


Ring Gear reversal

IP: 72.198.216.18 Posted on November 13, 2009 at 09:25:05 PM by Larry K

I am working on a 1650 and the back side of the ring gear is not beveled like the front. Is the front bevel wear or is there a difference that will make it impossible to reverse it?

Re(1): Ring Gear reversal

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 14, 2009 at 07:18:05 PM by Larry Harsin

You are talking about the starter ring gear and it was beveled on one side. I would not reverse it, but I would move the ring gear around on the flywheel (rotate it 40 - 50 degrees) and see what that does. If you aren't comfortable doing this, I would just get a new ring gear. Larry


Timing marks, 550 Flywheel

IP: 74.94.40.189 Posted on November 11, 2009 at 02:05:59 PM by Bob Ferguson

I am having trouble identifing the timing mark on the flywheel of my 550 gas tractor (1964, I think). There is a strip about 2" long and about 1/4" wide on the rim of the flywheel with what looks like a bunch of letters or numbers, but the strip has been covered over with white paint, and I can't make out what they are. Around the mid-point of this white strip is a small clear area w/o paint that has a small round dot about the size of large pencil point. Oppsite this dot, on the rim of the flywheel, is a short strip (about 1/8" long) of thin red paint. When the small dot that I have described alings with the pointer, inside the flywheel hole, the distributor rotor tip is either pointing at the number 1 or number 4 plug wires. I am guessing that when the rotor tip is pointing to the number 1 plug wire, and the flywheel hole pointer and the small dot are alinged, this is TDC. Is this correct? In other words, is the small dot that is marked with the small strip of red paint, the correct TDC point on the flywheel?

Re(1): Timing marks, 550 Flywheel

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 12, 2009 at 05:25:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Someone has apparently put those marks in there, but there is a TDC mark stamped right into the flywheel. This is a line and the letters TDC. This is what you need to look for. You may have to clean the flywheel to find it. The alignment you mention may or may not be correct for TDC, it might be for ignition. This is explained in your Operator's Manual. If you need one, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. When the tractor was new, there was a timing tape on the flywheel, but most of those are gone now. Larry


run out of fuel

IP: 24.255.80.212 Posted on November 11, 2009 at 06:43:42 AM by Donald Wise

I have oliver tractor i ran it out of fuel and now can't get it running again. I have tried bleeding the air threw the injectors but its not working. I need help!!! can some one tell me the proper way to do this. Please help. Donald Wise

Re(1): run out of fuel

IP: 4.249.102.209 Posted on November 11, 2009 at 11:31:08 AM by Larry from MD

You bleed the fuel filters first then the injector pump, then the injecter lines

Re(2): run out of fuel

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 12, 2009 at 05:14:45 AM by Larry Harsin

First you bleed the primary side of the system, the filters. Then, try to start it. If it doesn't start, then bleed the high pressure lines at the injectors. Then, crank the engine till fuel drips off the high pressure lines and tighten the fittings and start your engine. Larry

Re(3): run out of fuel

IP: 72.171.0.144 Posted on November 21, 2009 at 05:16:06 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

I have bled fuel systems by using a leaf blower or shop vac to pressurize the fuel tank. It will fill the filters quickly with the line to the pump loose. Once fuel gets to the head of the pump, it should start quickly.


steering wheel

IP: 96.24.160.220 Posted on November 9, 2009 at 05:26:10 PM by mike in ohio

Is there a way to remove the steering wheel from the steering shaft on a Super--without ruining it. I have tried to in the past and always wind up with all the rubber around the center broken or melted, and sometimes even broken spokes. Thanks in advance!!

Re(1): steering wheel

IP: 75.104.161.47 Posted on November 10, 2009 at 05:33:01 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There isn't. At least I havn't found a way without ruining them. Larry


Super 77 value

IP: 136.234.16.119 Posted on November 9, 2009 at 07:23:45 AM by Eric

I have a 1955 Super 77 with a Farmhand F-11 loader that I am looking to sell. The tractor and loader are in very good shape. Everything mechanically works. New front tires, good tread, but weatherchecked rear tires. Fluid and wheel weights. I've gone through everything and fixed what needs fixing - like the clutch, PTO shaft, refurbished the wear points on the front end and loader. Converted to 12V. The tin is in good shape with original faded paint and little rust. I've got chains on the tires too. What is a fair price to seek for this tractor? I'm in northern MN. I have an idea in my head, but would appreciate your input as you deal with ongoing tractor sales all the time.

Re(1): Super 77 value

IP: 75.104.161.47 Posted on November 10, 2009 at 05:31:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I would suggest approx. $3500 more or less. Larry


88 ring gear

IP: 68.119.31.158 Posted on November 8, 2009 at 06:52:57 PM by Jeremy

Hi Larry, I have a question regarding the flywheel ring gear on my old style 88 standard. Can I replace the old one without removing the engine? It has a belt pulley also. Can I remove the pto shaft, slide the bell housing back and get at it. Or is removing the engine a must? Am I best off replacing the ring gear with a new one or turning it around? My other question is does this old style 88 have a place to grease the throw out bearing? Thanks for all of your help.

Re(1): 88 ring gear

IP: 75.105.51.155 Posted on November 8, 2009 at 08:08:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I do is remove the fuel tank and unbolt the dash and lift it up and over the engine and tie it in place there. Then, remove the PTO drive shaft. Then, unbolt the coupling in front of the belt pulley drive and slide it forward. Then, unbolt the belt pulley drive and take it out. Then, you can remove the clutch housing and the flywheel. A new flywheel ring gear is terribly expensive. I would either reverse it or rotate it about 40 degrees and leave it alone. You will have to decide this. They weren't built with a grease type throw out bearing, But , you can buy one and put it in. They also had a bushing type pilot bearing. You can replace this with a ball bearing pilot bearing if the one you have is worn badly. I have some of these things in used parts, if you are interested, give me a call. I mighat even have a used flywheel with a ring gear, if yours is shot. 712-362-2966. Larry


1655 pto

IP: 98.80.143.4 Posted on November 6, 2009 at 11:56:54 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, My pto won't stay locked in unless I keep down pressure on the lever. PTO will stop when lever is pulled back if an implement is attached. it continues to run if no implement is attached.What adjustment can i make to help my situation?

Re(1): 1655 pto

IP: 75.104.182.221 Posted on November 7, 2009 at 05:48:21 AM by Larry Harsin

From your description, I think you will have to take it apart. I think you will find warped plates in the PTO clutch. You can first try to adjust it up so that it snaps over center to engage it. The instructions are in the Operator's Manual. But, I'm afraid the problem with the PTO running with no implement attached will be worse after the adjustment. Therefore, I think you will have to take it apart to repair it. Larry


770 high/low adjustment

IP: 76.214.210.124 Posted on November 5, 2009 at 02:39:41 PM by Jared

I am trying to adjust the high/low range clutch. Right now it does not seem to snap into gear like others I have seen. Any pointers?? Thanks, Jared

Re(1): 770 high/low adjustment

IP: 75.104.182.221 Posted on November 6, 2009 at 05:42:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Just remove shims from the shim packs on that clutch. Take out 2 or 3 shims from each pack and that should help. Larry


1550

IP: 163.153.134.19 Posted on November 5, 2009 at 09:01:21 AM by robert lapage

Hello we have a 1550 oliver diesel, in which the 3 pt hitch does not move up or down. I have did an oil/filter change and it didnt help. I did notice a small dime size piece of metal ripped out of the filter end. Also when using the ports for mowing the mower will rise up a few inches and doesnt stay locked down...Power steering works fine other then a small drip!!! Thanks

Re(1): 1550

IP: 75.104.182.221 Posted on November 6, 2009 at 05:40:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that you have a sticky regulator spool stuck in the Servo valve. Start the engine and run it wide open, and wiggle your hydraulic remote levers back and forth quickly. This will usually flush the debris out of the sticky spool and cause it to start working. If this fails to work, you may have another problem. There is a relief valve on the lift cylinder that is supported by a 1/4" pipe elbow. Those have been known to break off causing you to lose your hydraulic pressure for the 3 pt. Larry


Super 88 needs 3pt

IP: 209.94.173.156 Posted on November 2, 2009 at 10:14:27 PM by Jillian

I have excellant running Super 88, but find I need to have a 3pt hitch. It never had one as far as I know. Where can I get one for it & how difficult will it be to put together. Thanks Jillian

Re(1): Super 88 needs 3pt

IP: 75.104.161.85 Posted on November 3, 2009 at 06:21:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a 3 pt. hitch for a S88. It is not difficut to install. Call me - evenings are best. 712-362-2966. Larry


Oliver Super 88

IP: 12.48.81.50 Posted on November 1, 2009 at 06:37:04 PM by Larry

Do you know how to install the main input shaft in the transmission of a super 88?

Re(1): Oliver Super 88

IP: 75.104.161.85 Posted on November 2, 2009 at 09:33:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You will have to remove the hydraulic system. If the tractor has a belt pulley, remove the fuel tank and fold the dash up and forward laying it on the engine. The drive shaft must be driven forward to get it out of the bearings and then you can remove the shaft from the tractor. Install it in the reverse of this. Larry


77 industrial

IP: 68.44.160.224 Posted on November 1, 2009 at 06:43:09 AM by g tilley

I would just like to thank mr an mrs harsin for their help in getting tractor running an expert knowledge in telling me what tractor model i had i could not have done it without this site thank u very much

Re(1): 77 industrial

IP: 75.104.191.70 Posted on November 1, 2009 at 07:51:41 AM by Larry Harsin

You are welcome! We enjoy helping when we can. Larry and Sandra


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