1900 wheatland wheel wedge

IP: 208.83.194.104 Posted on November 30, 2011 at 06:46:57 PM by paul

one of my wedges shot off while changeing wheels. glad it missed me. might have hurt. do you know where i might get one? do they interchange with other tractors? thanks. paul

Re(1): 1900 wheatland wheel wedge

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 08:33:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I need to know if yours uses a 1/2" bolt or a 5/8" bolt. I have both. Give me a call. 712-362-2966 Larry

Re(2): 1900 wheatland wheel wedge

IP: 208.83.194.29 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 02:04:48 PM by paul

thanks larry, i found it finally. i thought i posted that but i guess i messed up. i learned not to take the nuts off before loosening the wedges the hard way. one did get me in the knee and its still a little sore.

Re(3): 1900 wheatland wheel wedge

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 6, 2011 at 08:14:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I figured you had probably found it. That popping off and hitting you is the way it is!!! Larry

Re(4): 1900 wheatland wheel wedge

IP: 208.83.194.29 Posted on December 6, 2011 at 04:07:30 PM by paul

i knew i wouldnt sleep so at 9pm i went down there with a flashlight and found it right away. things look differant in differant light or i just got lucky.

oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 68.199.184.105 Posted on November 29, 2011 at 04:00:56 PM by chris

Mr Harsin i just disassembled the hydraulic pump on my 49 fleetline 77 and found that three of the four needle bearings were free but one was frozen, my end plates arent smooth should they be ground? gear sleeves are spun, please help, i dont have money for a new pump

Re(1): oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.169.232 Posted on November 30, 2011 at 08:30:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I have reconditioned pumps on hand. I can do an exchange with you. The price would be about a third of what a new pump would be. Larry

Re(2): oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 68.199.184.105 Posted on November 29, 2011 at 07:58:12 PM by chris

the pump didnt pump any more so i removed it for inspection and found that it looks like the pump gears were grinding into the end plates, and one of the ends on the idler gear shaft doesnt match the chamfer on the other side of the shaft, it looks ground flat, is that normal or should i look into finding parts?, Also what manuals are the best to buy for my tractor?

Re(3): oliver 77 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.169.232 Posted on November 30, 2011 at 08:35:05 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get manuals from the Museum in Charles City. They have Operator's Manual, Service Manual and Parts Manual. 641-228-1099. For sure, you will need the Operator's Manual. The regular Oliver Service Manual is pretty expensive, but they also have an I&T Service Manual for your tractor and it is less expensive. You have to decide which ones you need.  You can do an exchange with me or you can call Nick Fassler in Juda WI and see if he would repair your's. 608-897-4993. He has parts etc. for these. Larry

1550 fuel in exhaust

IP: 75.117.184.82 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 04:12:24 PM by jim

I have recently replaced head gasket on my 1550. Had the injectors checked and reworked at the same time. I now have unburned fuel coming from no 2, 4, and 5 exhaust. I dont see any sign of head gasket leaks. what could be the cause. Thanks for any help jim

Re(1): 1550 fuel in exhaust

IP: 75.105.52.48 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 04:55:36 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have worn cylinders or rings, or you could have valves that are not seating properly, or you could have intake valves that are too deep in the head. Has the engine been put to work, so that it can clean itself up, since the work was done? Sometimes that is what it needs. Larry

Piston specs

IP: 38.100.15.131 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 02:02:10 PM by ...

Can you provide any specs for the pistons in an 1800C diesel and also an 1855 gas? The biggest things that I would like to know are compression height and wrist pin dimensions. Thank you for your help.

Re(1): Piston specs

IP: 75.105.52.48 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 04:51:58 PM by Larry Harsin

The pistons just come up flush with the deck on both tractors. The wrist pins are 1.2495 inches in diameter. Larry

super 55 steering sector

IP: 98.192.20.241 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 11:57:15 AM by charles rutland

I HAVE a super 55 with manuel steering.tractor has a loader on it, It is very hard to steer,I have rebuilt the steering sector,very little improvement,what should I do next?

Re(1): super 55 steering sector

IP: 75.105.52.48 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 04:46:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that the front wheel spindles aren't binding. Check with Jackson Power Steering about putting power steering onto it. 620-357-6546. If the front tires are very far away from the spindles, it will make them steer hard. In other words, does it have the correct front rims. They should be only about an inch from the spindles. Larry

Oliver 1900

IP: 99.115.138.225 Posted on November 23, 2011 at 11:01:05 AM by Tom

Have a 1900 with 453 GM diesel engine, is blowing a little blue smoke when running and after it is shut off, i'm seeing a little oil running down the exhaust manifold. I guess it is getting by the rings, do you think an oil product like Lucas would help? Or should i tear it down and overhaul? Also it is a 1963 model and it doesn't turn very sharp, can the be adjusted, is manual steering. I was told in64 there was steering upgrade

Re(1): Oliver 1900

IP: 69.72.27.134 Posted on November 23, 2011 at 11:45:42 AM by larry from md.

You could have a leaking injector, or oil could also get into through blower seals.Do some more investigateing.Are the air box drains open? Look at the rings by removeing the panels on the side.

Re(2): Oliver 1900

IP: 75.104.183.179 Posted on November 26, 2011 at 10:47:08 AM by Larry Harsin

You can try the Lucas, but your engine probably just needs to be overhauled. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 1900

IP: 108.85.3.224 Posted on November 26, 2011 at 05:37:47 PM by tom

where are the air box drains located on the 453?

Re(3): Oliver 1900

IP: 75.105.52.48 Posted on November 27, 2011 at 04:43:10 PM by Larry Harsin

The air box drains are on the lower portion of the block where the blower goes in. Larry

1600 choke

IP: 64.255.157.101 Posted on November 22, 2011 at 06:02:00 PM by JimM

my 1600 will only run with the choke fully engaged. The carb is a rebuilt unit the fuel line and sediment bowl are both new the fuel tank is clean. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am new to these old girls and really like them and hear in ND a good tractor is worth its weight in gold in the winter. Thanks  Jim

Re(1): 1600 choke

IP: 69.72.27.172 Posted on November 23, 2011 at 06:59:04 AM by Larry from MD

Make sure you have a good seal in the nose area between the 2 floats.

Re(2): 1600 choke

IP: 75.104.183.179 Posted on November 26, 2011 at 10:44:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Maybe your fuel needle is set too lean or your float leves is set too low. I think adjustments on the carb will take care of it. Larry

power cells

IP: 99.29.185.183 Posted on November 18, 2011 at 06:55:27 PM by jimmy nelson

i have a 1955 super 55 diesel im trying to pull the power cells to clean them but i cant figure out what size bolt to use to make a puller. any help you can give me would greatly be appreciated

Re(1): power cells

IP: 69.72.27.24 Posted on November 19, 2011 at 06:01:34 AM by larry from md.

Most of the time you don't pull them to clean. Only pull them if you are changeing heads or haveing a head welded.

Re(2): power cells

IP: 75.104.161.242 Posted on November 19, 2011 at 07:02:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Larry from MD, that you don't normally pull them to clean them. However, if you must pull them it's a 5/8" bolt, fine thread. Larry

oliver 1850

IP: 75.205.2.95 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 06:30:06 PM by Brian J

Hello. I am new to Oliver tractors and have a question. What, if any, is the diffence between an 1850 and an 1850 "special"? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): oliver 1850

IP: 75.104.182.182 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 10:35:52 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1850 Special was a "no frills" tractor that they removed some of the options from, so they could offer it at a cheaper price. All of the companies were doing it at that time. Larry

550 Transmission/final drive oil

IP: 72.22.105.1 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 11:47:53 AM by Mark I have a 1960 550 gas, that my grandfather bought new. The Transmission/Final drive oil does not look to have been changed for some time. The manual says to use 5w-20 or 10w-40 with an additional 2 1/2 pints of oliver additive 102 082-A. Question one is: Which one of todays oils should I use (5 gal), I have checked NAPA and John Deere dealers, and they both have oils for this application. I plan on using the tractor this winter and next summer, I would prefer to use an all year round oil if possible (I live in South Bend, IN) . Question 2 is: The manual also states to use 4 gallons of kerosene and drive for 5 minutes under no load to flush the transmission. After all these years I would guess it needs flushed with something. Is there an alternative or is this the best option and how do I ensure it is all out before adding final oil?

Re(1): 550 Transmission/final drive oil

IP: 75.104.182.182 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 10:33:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I use 80 - 90 transmission oil in the transmission and rear end. You can rinse it out with diesel fuel, if you want. There are 3 drain plugs on the bottom of the tractor and you want to be sure to drain all 3 of them. It shows you where they are in your manual. Larry

310 valve clearances

IP: 98.94.168.182 Posted on November 15, 2011 at 05:29:53 PM by kevin

What are the intake and exhaust valve clearances for a 310 gas engine.

Re(1): 310 valve clearances

IP: 75.104.182.182 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 07:59:21 AM by Larry Harsin

15 and 24. Larry

1650 diesel cam

IP: 76.3.40.178 Posted on November 13, 2011 at 05:20:31 PM by justin gravitt

I have been searching for a cam for my 1650 diesel I have found one but it looks like it is for a gas engine, my question is how much different would a gas cam be from a diesel. The lift is exactly the same but the cams lobes look a few degrees off from one another. Would I notice a difference in gas vs. diesel?

Re(1): 1650 diesel cam

IP: 75.105.54.117 Posted on November 13, 2011 at 07:21:58 PM by Larry Harsin

It won't work. The diesel has to have it's own cam and it has to have the same number as the one removed. There is a 6 digit number on that cam. It is the Waukesha number and the last 3 or 4 digits of that number are put on there with an electric pencil after they have ground it down, so look at it very closely and see if you can come up with those numbers. Larry

1550 power beyond

IP: 75.121.108.135 Posted on November 11, 2011 at 09:26:49 AM by wade burrow

Mr. Harsins, if I set up my 1550 for power beyond do i loose my 2 regular remotes?

Re(1): 1550 power beyond

IP: 75.104.161.95 Posted on November 11, 2011 at 10:55:43 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You don't lose anything! Larry

Oliver 1555 pto failure

IP: 174.124.12.162 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 02:10:18 PM by Paul Goellner

Pto failed.pto clutch is ok and long shaft ok. What drives the long shaft? What are my next steps?

Re(1): Oliver 1555 pto failure

IP: 69.72.27.167 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 05:28:37 PM by larry from md.

Theres a hub in the flywheel, you need to pull the engine and 2 speed to get to it.

Re(2): Oliver 1555 pto failure

IP: 75.104.182.53 Posted on November 9, 2011 at 09:30:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The splines are probably stripped. And, I agree, you will have to remove the engine and the 2 speed. Larry

1950T

IP: 204.10.46.254 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 08:15:35 AM by Dean

My 1950T has a waukeshau 310D. The motor was out for several years getting rebuilt. When it was put back in I had drained all the old fuel. I notice junk in the sediment bowl. I cleaned it out several times. The tractor would run then quit, like it wasn't getting any fuel. Wait ten seconds and it would start right up. I changed fuel filters, put in an in-line filter, drained the tank and cleaned it. Now the tractor runs for 10 seconds and quits. Wait and it will start again but only run 10 sec or so. I took the fuel lines off that lead to the fuel pump and filter and blew them out. Still no better. When I bleed the filter I do not get a lot of fuel to come out, and when I manually pump the fuel prior to starting, the tractor will run longer than 10 secs, maybe 20 secs. Could the fuel pump be weak or what else do you think?

Re(1): 1950T

IP: 75.104.182.53 Posted on November 9, 2011 at 09:29:05 AM by Larry Harsin

The fuel pump could be bad. I would remove the fitting on top of the injection pump, for the return (return fitting), and make sure that is o.k. It is a little spring loaded ball on some of them. Larry

Re(2): 1950T

IP: 98.80.145.17 Posted on November 9, 2011 at 10:26:27 AM by Cleon Couey

As Larry said check the return line.Sounds like it may be plugged. If there are "coffee grounds" in there the injection pump will have to be serviced.

Re(3): 1950T

IP: 204.10.46.254 Posted on November 14, 2011 at 02:32:27 PM by Dean

I took the return off the top of the injector pump and blew out the return line. I also put air thru the fitting containing the small ball. Re-bleeded the system. Same thing, runs for about 5-10 seconds then dies due to not enough fuel. When bleeding the system and I pump fuel with the manual lever on the fuel pump, it really doesn't seem to have that much fuel coming out of the top filter plug. But cracking the line at the fuel pump there is plenty of fuel coming out!

Re(4): 1950T

IP: 75.104.182.182 Posted on November 16, 2011 at 10:39:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The fuel transfer pump on the right side of the engine, must not be moving the fuel to the injection pump. It could have a broken fuel pump arm or a bad check valve etc. Larry

1750 pto

IP: 69.179.181.78 Posted on November 7, 2011 at 06:52:21 PM by Chris

I am considering a purchase of a 1750. $2500 for the price. One problem, the pto will not disengage. Also at this time I am unable to see any oil levels.

Re(1): 1750 pto

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 07:46:04 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 half-inch pipe plugs on the back of the PTO housing. The top one is the level plug. Before purchasing the tractor, I would make sure there is at least SOME oil in the rear end. Otherwise, you may have a problem. Ask the owner if he has the Operator's Manual you could look at. Otherwise, get one from the museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. That would give you an idea what to look for. Larry

Re(2): 1750 pto

IP: 72.161.213.20 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 06:19:34 PM by Christopher W. Dwyer

Thank you. When I first looked at the tractor there was oil in it but not much. Is that what is causing the pto to stay engaged? I pulled back the lever but the pto continues to spin.

Re(3): 1750 pto

IP: 72.161.213.20 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 06:49:18 PM by Christopher W. Dwyer Larry, I forgot to mention. I went back to look at the 1750 and the pto would not spin while the tractor was not running. Chris

Re(4): 1750 pto

IP: 75.104.182.53 Posted on November 9, 2011 at 09:25:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO doesn't work with the engine shut off! Larry

Re(5): 1750 pto

IP: 69.72.27.219 Posted on November 11, 2011 at 06:28:50 AM by larry from md.

There is a small brake disc that is supposed to stop the pto when disengaged(running or not).So most likely the clutch disc are warped or damaged or have stiff oil in them so they are draging.This is halfway common on most 50 series olivers.

oliver 66 pto

IP: 71.50.44.227 Posted on November 6, 2011 at 07:35:45 PM by zach

I have a oliver 66, not sure on the year between a 51 and 52. Im atempting to put a pto on this tractor, i have got the outer housing, the saft, the inner casting. My question is what parts am i missing, the outer house that has the engagement lever on, appears to be missing some part on the inside of it. looking for a diagram or picture of the complete assembly, to help me piece this thing togather, any help would be great.

Re(1): oliver 66 pto

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 07:41:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Call the museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099 and ask them to email you copies of the pages with the PTO on it, from the parts manual. Larry

1755 Hyd leak at "T"

IP: 96.47.119.219 Posted on November 6, 2011 at 05:29:55 AM by M Hipsher

I was out plowing yesterday, and the "T" fitting that goes into the rockshaft manifold started to spray oil. I have taken it out, and can see nothing wrong. I have put paste on the pipe "T" and it still leaks. Could the manifold be cracked, or some restriction going to the lift system? Anything common? Thanks

Re(1): 1755 Hyd leak at "T"

IP: 75.105.44.88 Posted on November 6, 2011 at 09:00:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd try using a new "T" and use teflon tape instead of the paste. Larry

Re(3): 1755 Hyd leak at "T"

IP: 96.47.119.219 Posted on November 6, 2011 at 11:46:30 AM by M Hipsher

I'll give it a try. It seems to me that it is coming from the manifold.... but maybe I lost my taper. Thanks much

Re(4): 1755 Hyd leak at "T"

IP: 96.47.119.219 Posted on November 8, 2011 at 05:10:11 AM by M Hipsher

The fitting was cracked on the NPT thread. Thanks much. Matt

1650 cam numbers

IP: 76.3.41.174 Posted on November 5, 2011 at 09:55:23 PM by Justin Gravitt

Could you tell me what the casting numbers are on a 1650 diesel cam. I need a new cam and have found one with the number of 190223-B it looks exactly like mine just wanted to confirm.

Re(1): 1650 cam numbers

IP: 75.105.44.88 Posted on November 6, 2011 at 09:02:20 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to take the number off of your old cam and find a new one with that same number. Many of those numbers are put on with an electric pencil. Larry

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