1974 1955 oliver tractor

IP: 70.59.154.136 Posted on October 31, 2007 at 07:33:01 PM by ernie firestone

with the price of diesel going up I have begun the task of getting agricultural diesel.. I have noticed that there are two choices at the truck fueling place I have been going to... low sulfur fuel and the regular diesel the big trucks use... Is there going to be any harm to my wahkesha diesel using the low sulfur fuel... thankyou for any advice on this matter....

Re(1): 1974 1955 oliver tractor

IP: 4.158.84.85 Posted on October 31, 2007 at 10:53:39 PM by Larry Harsin

The low sulfur fuel doesn't have the lubricity of the regular diesel, however, if you can get some soy diesel, that has the lubricity of regular diesel. Larry

Row Crop 88

IP: 199.144.172.43 Posted on October 29, 2007 at 11:55:34 AM by Adam

I just purchased a 1951 RC 88 gas. The engine is stuck and I'm just about to tear it down for a rebuild. It is my first Oliver and my question is about the Hyrdaulics...it has the electric switches on the steering column and most of the wiring is bad going to and from the pump. Is there any way to bypass the electric part of the hydraulic system to see if the pump is in good condition? Or can the top be replaced with the levers? If so, do you know of anyone that would have the levers?

Re(1): Row Crop 88

IP: 4.158.84.152 Posted on October 30, 2007 at 06:01:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I would be inclined to remove the unit from the tractor and check the pump itself out. It may be usable or rebuildable. There are 2 little shafts sticking out of the sides of the reservoir. With the tractor running, attach a pair of Vice Grips to them and move the Vice Grips up and down. If you hear a relief valve, you know the pump is still workable. If you want a hydraulic system to use, I would buy a series 3 hydraulic unit, which is like the Supers and the 3 digits have. The top can be replaced with levers. I have series 3 units to sell. If you are interested, call me. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 1550

IP: 66.66.215.25 Posted on October 27, 2007 at 02:27:47 PM by Todd Underwood

My 1550 Oliver is running rough and lacks power, I'm giving it a tune up and when I checked for the correct distributor point gap in my book it listed two different ones. Could you please tell me the correct gap I should have on them.

Re(1): oliver 1550

IP: 4.158.84.188 Posted on October 27, 2007 at 09:38:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The Holly Dist. is .025. The other setting in your book is for the Mallory Dist. The Holly Dist. has a vacuum advance on it and the Mallory doesn't. You have to decide what you have and choose the right setting. Larry

1550 hydraulic remotes

IP: 4.249.237.81 Posted on October 24, 2007 at 07:56:51 PM by Karl Endlich

Mr. Harsin: I just found your site and it is really great! My dad farmed with Oliver 70s (one of them retrofitted with a 235 Chevrolet engine)and the second oldest picture I have of myself is of me on the seat of the 70 when I was @ 18 months old. I now have two 70s, a 77HC, a 1550, a #5 picker and an 82 mower. I had to leave a bunch of Oliver stuff behind when we sold our farm this summer. Sorry so long winded, but I have a problem with the 1550 remotes. The right remote has couplers hooked up and it seems to be pressurizing both couplers at the same time. I don't know if the previous owner ever used the remote at all. The couplers seem okay, so I was thinking that they might be plumbed into the wrong ports on the hydraulic unit. Thank you in advance for any help. Karl

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic remotes

IP: 4.158.84.187 Posted on October 25, 2007 at 11:28:55 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are finding is not uncommon. It is sort of the "nature of the beast". It makes for difficult coupling and uncoupling, I know. The best solution is to get Pioneer Couplings at an Implement Dealer or a Farm Supply Store. They will hook up under pressure. Larry

Re(2): 1550 hydraulic remotes

IP: 69.26.11.99 Posted on October 28, 2007 at 08:15:38 PM by Bill Wagner

I had the same problem with my 1650 and the Pioneer "hook-up under pressure" couplers solved the problem nicely.

RC66 HYDROLICS

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on October 22, 2007 at 06:43:50 PM by DON WHITE

I HAVE A RC66 HIS HAS A HYDROLIC PUMP WHICH AS NEVER USED. HOW DO I GET IT TO WORK? IT HAS ONE LEVER AND NO HOSES AND HAS NEVER BEEN USED. I BOUGHT IT FROM THE ORIGINAL OWNER WHO DID NOT NEED IT. I HAVE OWNED SEVERAL OLIVERS AND WHITE TRACTORS. ALL MY EQUIPMENT HAS BEEN WHITE OR OLIVER. S55-770-105-2-180.7300 COMBINE WHITE PLANTERS AND TILLAGE EQUIPMENT

Re(1): RC66 HYDROLICS

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:24:56 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to have hoses, but I wonder if they maintained the oil level in it........ Whether the unit is being used or not, it has to have oil in it. Otherwise, the pump is probably ruined. The hydraulic unit is similar to the one on your 770, as far as the requirements for oil and the operation. Larry

S55 oil pressure

IP: 68.54.189.66 Posted on October 22, 2007 at 05:32:51 PM by Dick Witmer

I rebuilt the engine on my 1955 S55 diesel several years ago and only last week started it for the first time. It doesn't have much oil pressure, no oil to the rockers and only a little oil out of the filter tube with the filter off.I removed the oil pan and the crankshaft is covered with oil and the pump slippers are free. There is a little pipe at the timing gear for oil, does it need to be restricted? I'm looking for what I missed when putting it together. Thank you. PS: your site is wonderful!

Re(1): S55 oil pressure

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:21:24 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd make sure that the oil pressure relief valve, on the right front corner of the block, is not sticking part way open. Make sure it slides in and out freely, and bottoms. You could also stretch that spring slightly to make it an eighth of an inch longer. Larry

Re(2): S55 oil pressure

IP: 68.54.189.66 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 09:18:27 AM by Dick Witmer

I found the problem, it is an empty hole at the front of the block just next to the little pipe for the timing gear oiler and above the upper screw in plug.(Rifle bore for the lifters) My old block has a much smaller hole at that location. Does it need a plug or an orifice plug. My old block is just L100 and this block is 1L100B.

Re(3): S55 oil pressure

IP: 4.252.30.44 Posted on October 25, 2007 at 10:27:34 PM by Larry Harsin

That hole should not be plugged. Leave it open. I checked on a block just like it. Larry

HyrdoPower Noise

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 22, 2007 at 05:26:07 AM by Richard

Got the old 1650D back together. Steering and clutch works great. I do notice a pretty bad clacking during idle, in nuetral, with the clutch pedal out, but I can raise the rpm just a tad and it goes away. I thought it was coming from the Chain Coupler but I can put the Hyrdapower in Low while idling and it goes away. Chain coupler always made a little noise while idling sometimes but this is much louder. Sprocket alignment was pretty good, but the chain was pretty stiff. What scares me, is the input shaft on the hydrapower came out while I was working on it, but I twisted it about 2 turns and it went back into place. There wasn't anything in there that could have fell out was there?

Re(1): HyrdoPower Noise

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:18:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think anything would have fallen out. What you describe is not unheard of. I'd go ahead and use it and keep an eye on it for any other unusual problem. I don't think I'd tear it down yet. You might raise the slow idle speed on your engine a little. That might help it. Larry

1855

IP: 71.62.143.195 Posted on October 21, 2007 at 02:33:06 PM by chris

Just bought a 1969 1855. Tractor is a little rough but I think I did o.k. My question is "what is the best thing to do with the non functioning air condition''? The factory unit is trashed. What are my options? I do want the air,it gets hot in Va. summers. I thought maybe an inverter with a RV unit.Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also I'm looking for a door for the same tractor.

Re(1): 1855

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:15:10 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to look at after-market sources for air conditioning. I don't know about an R.V. model. Check around locally for a source, as you will want someone to service it. Check with Implement Dealers etc. You are going to have to identify the brand of your cab before you seek a door. Check out salvage yards in your area, etc. Larry

Re(2): 1855

IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on October 26, 2007 at 11:05:18 PM by J. Ulmer

I don't think an inverter will furnish the watts to run an R.V. type roof unit. Go to a good truck or tractor mechanic who does A/C and he can help you get and change out hoses, drier, expanson valve or tube and compressor as required. I would retro-fit with to R-134 rather than R-12 as it is HighDollar and anyone can get the R134 without licensing at any parts store. You can find a compressor if yours is shot off a wreck and change the oil to bbe compatible, change the o-ring seals to the other type (you need to swap them anyway) vacuum the system, check with gauges to be sure you have no leaks and then pop in some new coolant and enjoy your tractor. Airconditioning is not that complicated and the system is relatively simply if you will read how refrigeration works. There lots of stuff I didnn't know how to do till I was done!!! Good Luck. Jerry

Super 55 Vibration

IP: 12.216.88.175 Posted on October 21, 2007 at 01:28:40 PM by Jim Fitzgerald

We've got a 1955 Super 55 Gas that we just got. It seems to have a vibration. Sitting in neutral not moving, at idle, there seems to be little or no vibration. At about 1/3 throttle, it vibrates the entire tractor - seat, fenders, everything shakes. As you increase the throttle from there, it gets better, but still vibrates everything a little. The clutch and brakes don't seem to effect the vibration at all and it seems to vibrate the same when driving it. I dont know what can be causing this. My dad thinks it may be the water pump going out - as sometimes you here a quick little squeal from the front of motor and the fan belt belt pulley isn't lined up very good with the crank and generator pulleys - bad enough its tearing up the new belt I just put on. Any ideas on what would cause this vibration or things we can check to see what it is? Thanks, Jim.

Re(1): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:11:29 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check, is loosen up the belt and check the water pump for looseness or binding or both. If there is any indication of problems in that area, get that taken care of promptly. Check with Korves Oliver if you need a water pump. 618-939-6681. Another thing you could do is, take the belt off and see if that stops the vibration. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 129.186.31.58 Posted on October 24, 2007 at 11:11:11 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

I pulled off the fan belt and and the water pump didn't really have any slop or looseness. The fan also moves freely when spinning it by hand. Started up and ran tractor in nuetral and it still had the same vibration. No difference with the belt off. Also, I don't know if it matters but it seems like if you touch the block while running, you don't feel a vibration but you can definitly feel it at the seat, fenders, lights, dash, hood, front axle, ect. The tractor doesn't seems to run rough and idles really nice. It has PTO (but no stub shaft), no external hyd. valve, and a three point. It has fresh engine oil and antifreeze, hydraulic is full and tranny is full of oil but looked kinda foamy and probably needs a change. Any suggestions? Thanks again for all your help. Jim.

Re(3): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 4.158.84.41 Posted on October 26, 2007 at 05:34:35 AM by Larry Harsin

See if it makes any difference with the tractor in gear and the clutch pedal depressed. That would rule out anything in the transmission drive train. I have seen where mice had carried something like pieces of cotton or some foreign matterial up into the pressure plate and flywheel area. That could be causing the problem. If any of those tin covers on the bottom of the tractor, are missing, mice can get in and carry things up in there. I had a S55 that was packed with cotton (like out of an old mattress). Sometimes it's corn or something else. Has the flywheel ever been off of this engine? You can check it's installation out by the timing marks on the flywheel. Larry

Re(4): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on October 26, 2007 at 11:13:02 PM by J.Ulmer

Larry: I would go with your out of balance clutch theory, Foreign wweight would do it, and I once saw a clutch with a broken spring which dropped out leaving the same symptoms. On that clutch (Not on a tractor but similiar) opening the inspection plate and fishing with a magnet brought out some spring parts and inspection of the clutch found the "light" spot. Hope this helps. Jerry

Re(5): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 12.216.88.175 Posted on October 29, 2007 at 10:31:06 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

Sounds like I have some investigating to do. I will do some checking and let you know what I find - hopefully is nothing too expensive!

Oliver 70

IP: 67.72.98.45 Posted on October 20, 2007 at 07:24:46 PM by Lisa

We have my dad's old 70 Oliver running again and we want to change the oil. This will sound bad, but we are unsure of where the oil fill is. There is a plug near the front end on the right hand side that we assume is the oil fill, but we want to make sure.

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 4.252.30.13 Posted on October 23, 2007 at 06:06:11 AM by Larry Harsin

It's a cap that screws off near the right hand front of the tractor. You need to get an Operator's Manual, if you don't have your Dad's. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70

IP: 216.178.55.108 Posted on October 27, 2007 at 07:49:43 AM by Lisa

Thanks for the response Larry, yes that is the one I mentioned. We have the oil changed now and I will get that owner's manual. Thanks again.

525 Combine

IP: 71.28.213.95 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 08:06:29 PM by Joe Blair

I have just purchased a 525 combine I was wondering if you could tell me the weight on this piece of equipment.

Re(1): 525 Combine

IP: 4.252.196.102 Posted on October 20, 2007 at 05:44:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any literature that tells me what it weighs. I would guess approx. 8000 - 10,000 lbs. It would be in the Operator's Manual. If you don't have one, you should get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

S55 oil pump screen

IP: 68.54.189.66 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 06:25:57 PM by Dick Witmer

Does the engine oil pump screen need an O ring where it connects to the oil pump?

Re(1): S55 oil pump screen

IP: 4.158.84.161 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 09:53:05 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It doesn't. Larry

1850 diesel

IP: 208.54.14.87 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 11:53:06 AM by jim

Larry, I changed fuel filters and was able to hand pump fuel through primary but not able to get fuel at bleed ports in pump. (No bleed port at secondary filter)Can't feel any resistance at hand pump. What do I do? Have not tried to start tractor. Thanks,

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 4.158.84.161 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 09:51:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to get fuel through the bleeders on the pump. Follow the instructions in the Operator's Manual, which it sounds like you have been doing, but you have to get fuel through the bleeders. You could try turning the engine by hand a little ways, and see if the pump will pump better with the hand primer. You could have the engine set with the stroke on the high side on the primer pump, causing this. Larry

550 pto clutch

IP: 75.104.192.37 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 09:24:01 AM by Tommy

Hi: Larry my tractor is missing the brass split collar that connects the pto fork to the release plate, can this be replaced through the inspection cover , or will I have to split the the tractor. Thanks

Re(1): 550 pto clutch

IP: 4.158.84.161 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 09:47:08 PM by Larry Harsin

You will have to split the tractor. You'll have to do the Z split. Larry

paint

IP: 75.104.192.56 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 09:42:55 AM by Tommy

Larry I have a new fiberglass grill for my 550, is it suppose to be painted clover white like the wheels or just white? also the spin out rim's are they completely clover white or are the spin out runners a different color? The tractor is a 1965 550. Thanks

Re(1): paint

IP: 4.158.84.191 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 02:12:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The grill should be clover white. The rims and the rails should be silver and the wheel dish clover white. Larry

1650 Front End

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 06:52:59 PM by Richard

Larry, another question. I hadn't torn it down yet so I'm not sure. My 1650D's steering is really loose. Crawling under the tractor, it looks like the torrington bearing on the pitman arm shaft is wiped out. I bought new bearings and I have the motor out doing the clutch right now, so now seems like a good time to attack this. Which is easier, to remove the steering box or would it be easier to take the front axle mount off the tractor, replace the bearings and slide it back on the steering box. In other words, leave the steering motor where it is.

Re(1): 1650 Front End

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:34:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Now is the time to fix this. I'd leave the steering box in the frame and drop the front axle mount out of the tractor. Actually, it's about the same either way. You can do it whichever way you like. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Front End

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 07:22:28 PM by Richard

Thanks. It was very easy. All the slop was because there was no bearing at all in the bottom hole. The bore doesn't look messed up so maybe I got lucky. Anything hold that lower bearing in besides an interference fit?

Re(3): 1650 Front End

IP: 4.158.84.191 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 02:09:58 AM by Larry Harsin

No. That is all that is there. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- Hyraulic/Transmissions Fluids

IP: 4.160.180.228 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 06:46:17 PM by Terry Allen

When I got the tractor the hydraulic fluid was down about a gallon, refilled and system works well. However, found out that transmission was over-full, approx 1 gallon. Understand that if the hydraulic leaks internally, the fluid goes into the transmission. Since refilling the hydraulic, the fluid level has remained constant, however, usage has been small. Should I be concerned or take some action? Don't think I want to tackle a hydraulic system rebuild, if needed. Can the rebuild be farmed out?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Hyraulic/Transmissions Fluids

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:30:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I would go ahead and use it and watch it, and not do anything at this time. If it starts losing fluid more so than now, then I would be concerned. But not at the present time. If you have trouble in the future, contact us about your problem. Larry

1650D Torque

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 06:42:14 PM by Richard

Mr. Larry, would you happen to have the torque values for the flywheel and also the pressure plate bolts on the 1650D ? Oh, one last question. When installing the new throw out bearing onto it's housing, do I line the two half moon cutouts up? There is one on the bearing then one on the bearing housing.

Re(1): 1650D Torque

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:27:02 AM by Larry Harsin

The flywheel is 55 lbs. The pressure plate bolts 35 - 40 lbs. I'm not exactly sure what you are talking about on the half moon question. But I don't think those are there for you to line them up. Larry

Re(2): 1650D Torque

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:52:10 AM by Richard

Thanks. On the new clutch release bearing is a mark/line on one side, and a half moon recess on the other side. On the housing the bearing presses onto, there is a half moon recess on it as well. The book says to line up the bearing with the housing. I was assuming they wanted the two half moon recesses lined up with each other. Hard to tell by their picture.

Re(3): 1650D Torque

IP: 4.158.84.161 Posted on October 19, 2007 at 09:56:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Look at it and use your own best judgement and go from there. Larry

1650 oil level

IP: 75.146.146.225 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 01:48:02 PM by Reed

Larry, When I leave my 1650 sit for some time, the engine oil level goes way over the full mark. I suspect oil is draining out of the oil filter cannister. Is this normal? If not, what can be done to stop it?

Re(1): 1650 oil level

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:21:41 AM by Larry Harsin

That is normal with overfilling. You are putting a little too much oil in this tractor. Put in two thirds of a quart less. Larry

770 Oliver - Steering

IP: 208.100.207.49 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 01:07:05 PM by Mike Kiteley

I have a 770 with power assist steering. I want to Change to manual steering, can I replace with manual steering, will it fit? The problem I have with my old steering box is the clip that holds the balls in the worm gear broke, letting all the balls fall out. The steering box also keeps blowing seals. Any suggestions? Do you have a manual steering box that would fit a 770?

Re(1): 770 Oliver - Steering

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:17:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will fit. What happened to your power assist is not uncommon. I have a manual steering that will fit right on there. Call me: 72-362-2966. Larry

White 2-70

IP: 70.100.87.114 Posted on October 17, 2007 at 10:25:38 AM by Harold

Does the White 2-70 have a Waukesha or Perkins engine, or either? Thanks in advance for the information, HAROLD

Re(1): White 2-70

IP: 4.158.84.156 Posted on October 18, 2007 at 05:14:14 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a Waukesha. It is about the same thing as a 1655. Larry

Transmission oil and brake parts

IP: 76.226.121.250 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 06:39:25 PM by lee

I have a 1972 550 and the manual says to use 10w 30 with a oliver additive #102082-a what is this additive and is there some place to get it or is there something else to use also I want to redo the brakes do you know where I can get the parts thanks Lee

Re(1): Transmission oil and brake parts

IP: 4.158.84.49 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 08:18:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Just use 80-90 transmission oil in the transmission of the 550. You don't need the additive. No one makes it anymore. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- Green Color Code

IP: 4.160.180.229 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 07:50:21 PM by Terry Allen

Brian Rukes "Oliver Tractor Data Book" lists the green color as Martin Senour 99L-3751 or DuPont 5316. However, the Sherwin-Williams store indicated these codes are 2 different green colors. What is the correct green color code?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Green Color Code

IP: 4.158.84.44 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 05:48:54 AM by Larry Harsin

We don't have a listing for DuPont 5316. The S77 was Meadow Green using the Martin Senour number for reference. I get Meadow Green from AGCO. It is cheaper and you can get it in spray cans to match the larger cans, so you can do "touch-up". And it is the correct color. Since you are in Ohio, call Ag Parts First in Wooster OH 866-264-9720. Larry

1650 Industrial

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 06:47:36 PM by KIM

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP. I HAVE THE HYDRO POWER STEEING AND WANT TO REPLACE THE STEERING WHEEL. I HAVE REMOVED ALL THE BOLTS AND WENT TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL WITH A PULLER BUT IT IS NOT MOVING, IT ALMOST LOOKS LIKE IT UNSCREWS. Does it pull off or unscrew?

Re(1): 1650 Industrial

IP: 4.158.84.44 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 05:40:39 AM by Larry Harsin

That steering wheel pulls off. Pull it straight toward you. It is pressed onto the shaft. Larry

Transmission oil and amount

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 05:29:13 PM by russ

first thanks for the help on my super 77 driveshaft question the other day i finally got it in. now, what weight oil do i use in the rear end, trans and about how many gallons do i need, and also were is the plug that tells when its full. thanks so much, russ

Re(1): Transmission oil and amount

IP: 4.254.119.101 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 05:57:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I use 90 weight transmission oil. Purchase 5 gal. It won't take quite all of that. The level plug is on the right rear of the final drive housing behind the axle. It is a half inch pipe plug. Larry

1800 Oliver Carburetor

IP: 70.100.87.114 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 06:25:46 PM by leroyda

I was told by an experienced Oliver mechanic the 3020 John Deere carburetor was a good replacement for the original Marvel-Schebler installed on the 1800 Oliver. I have a Zenith 13023 updraft carburetor somebody thinks came from a 3020 JD...? The Zenith physically does bolt on correctly and link up without mods. It appears to be an adequate replacement physically if I can find a rebuild kit. Can anyone help me by 1) by confirming this Zenith will perform on my father-in-laws 1800 Oliver and 2) where can I purchase a rebuild kit. Any info from all you Oliver Experts out there will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1800 Oliver Carburetor

IP: 4.252.27.118 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 10:30:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how well the carb will work. I would say it probably would. You can get a kit from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Oliver Carburetor

IP: 70.100.87.114 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 06:25:13 AM by leroyda

Thanks, Larry. The tractor has run with that carburetor installed, but it's all gunked up inside. I have wondered about jet size, etc., and the things important to matching carburetor capacity with engine size...? I am going to disassemble it today, and will contact Valu-Bilt for the kit. Thanks again, Leroy

Re(3): 1800 Oliver Carburetor

IP: 4.158.84.44 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 05:32:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd clean it up and see how it runs. If it runs o.k., I'd leave it alone. Larry

Carb settings

IP: 67.2.177.187 Posted on October 13, 2007 at 09:13:04 PM by Bob

On a 1952 77 what are the approx. carb settings? (how many turns out)

Re(1): Carb settings

IP: 4.158.84.214 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 01:56:57 PM by Larry Harsin

One and a half on the load needle. Three fourths of a turn on the idle mixture adjustment. Larry

1650

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 12, 2007 at 09:02:47 PM by KIM

I have a 1650, I need to remove the cover from the hydro power, I have removed the 14 bolts and it is not budging, I tried to pry the cover off with screw driver but no luck. Am I missing something??

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.55.255.180 Posted on October 13, 2007 at 04:33:23 AM by djm75

Kim I did the same thing don't forget to remove the line and 90 degree brass fitting. Also mine was so tight I had to drive a thin flat bar or screw driver in there to get it to break loose. P.S. don't forget to ask Larry about replacing the other seals in there and there is a valve seat that may need replaced ask Larry for details. good luck. Don

Re(2): 1650

IP: 4.158.84.34 Posted on October 13, 2007 at 06:27:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Those things are very hard to remove. If you get the cover off, be sure and check out the lube circuit valve seat. It is under a 1/2" pipe plug and has a spring with a plunger. If you already have the unit out of the tractor, I would replace the O rings on the countershaft and if it shows any leakage on the front input shaft seal, I would replace that. Larry

Re(3): 1650

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 13, 2007 at 07:50:16 AM by KIM

So, The 14 bolts is all I need to take out and the cover should come off? The O-ring was leaking and when remove the shaft it would not go back in all the way, that's when the fun started!!

Re(4): 1650

IP: 4.158.84.214 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 01:55:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, to the removal of the 14 bolts. The shaft probably won't go back in all the way, because the thrust washer slipped down keeping it from sliding all the way in. If you have the side cover off, you should be able to see the thrust washer and move it back up to place, so that you can get that counter shaft back in there. Larry

Re(5): 1650

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 07:53:14 PM by KIM

I got the shaft back in, I noticed there was only one O-Ring on the shaft, I did not see any other O-Ring slot on the other end on the shaft? I see where the parts manual is showing another O-Ring at the other end but I can't tell where it goes?

Re(6): 1650

IP: 4.252.27.118 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 10:27:02 PM by Larry Harsin

There is an O ring that sits in the housing on the front end. And another O ring that fits on the shaft in the rear of it. Larry

Re(7): 1650

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 08:00:03 AM by KIM

How would go about replacing that O-Ring on the front? Is there anything else I should replace?

Re(8): 1650

IP: 4.254.119.101 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 05:52:20 PM by Larry Harsin

To replace the front O ring, take the bell housing off the front of the unit. Take the snap ring off of the big ball bearing on the front. Then, slide the front cover for the hydra power off of the bearing. Then, replace the O ring in the housing. I think if I was doing this, I would replace the seal that is on the input shaft on the inside of the drive hub. To do that, you have to pull the counter shaft back out of the unit, so that the bottom shaft in the unit can drop down. Then, you can remove the input shaft with the hub on it. Then, replace the seal and reverse to assemble. Larry

Re(9): 1650

IP: 24.32.174.148 Posted on October 15, 2007 at 06:53:55 PM by KIM

ONCE I REPLACE THESE O-RINGS I WOULD LIKE TO CHECK FOR LEAKS BEFORE I CONNECT THE HYDRO UNIT BACK TO THE ENGINE. CAN I CAP OFF THE FITTINGS AND FILL WITH FLUID TO CHECK FOR ANY LEAKS?? I WOULD HATE TO ASSEMBLE ALL THIS, INSTALL THE ENGINE AND FIND A LEAK!

Re(10): 1650

IP: 4.158.84.49 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 08:21:16 PM by Larry Harsin

You can fix up something to turn the unit with a 1/2" electric drill, to pump up the pressure and make it operate, so you can check it out. Larry

1850 gas

IP: 66.18.179.21 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 05:36:28 PM by jim

I have an 1850 gas tractor that runs well but at 1600rpms it starts to vibrate . in nuetral or in gear with clutch in or out any ideas thank you.

Re(1): 1850 gas

IP: 4.158.84.172 Posted on October 12, 2007 at 05:24:36 AM by Larry Harsin

That would seem to indicate that the vibration is coming from the engine instead of the drive train. One possibility, though, that I would check first, is remove the long drive shaft that goes from the rear of the tractor up into the flywheel and drives the PTO and the hydraulic. Remove it and check it to see if it is bent. You could also try starting the engine with it out and see if that has any effect on the vibration. Larry

Re(2): 1850 gas

IP: 216.82.251.227 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 01:41:30 PM by Dean

Larry my 1650D did the same thing. At low RPM was fine but would vibrate horribly at higher RPM. I found out it was out of timing and whn adjusted right, runs just fine. I don't know if this could be the same issue with his 1850 gas

Re(3): 1850 gas

IP: 4.158.84.49 Posted on October 16, 2007 at 08:23:35 PM by Larry Harsin

That's a good idea of something to check. Larry

Super 77 driveshaft

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 08:48:43 AM by russ

i have a super 77 that my father took apart 10 yrs ago to fix the hydraulic pump. he has past away and i am putting back together. the driveshaft has been pulled back away from the motor and i cant push it back in. i suppose the throwout bearing has dropped a bit. how do i line it back up>

Re(1): Super 77 driveshaft

IP: 4.158.84.172 Posted on October 12, 2007 at 05:20:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I would try to hold down the clutch pedal while working with the drive shaft. That should free up that clutch disc so that you can get the drive shaft into the pilot bearing. If this doesn't work, you will have to unbolt the bell housing and go in there and line everything up and go from there. Larry

#58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 66.67.19.53 Posted on October 10, 2007 at 07:12:05 PM by david

I have a 1956 Oliver Super 55 with a #58 Front End Loader. Last winter the hydraulic pump cracked (I presume it was due to water in the system). I replaced it with a rebuilt pump last summer and everything was working fine until mid-winter when it started pushing (blowing) fluid out around the cover of the filter housing. Removing the filter from the housing has significantly reduced this problem, but I still have seepage of fluid from the filter housing cover. There is no blockage or restriction of fluid from the filter to the reservoir. What could be causing this problem and how do I repair it?

Re(1): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 4.252.194.143 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 06:10:24 AM by Larry Harsin

You may be using too high a viscosity oil in your hydraulic. Try going to a lighter oil. Larry

Re(2): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 66.67.19.53 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 04:45:01 PM by david

The manual says I can use a high quality non-detergent 10w or 20w motor oil instead of hydraulic fluid. Is that going to have a lower viscosity than standard tractor hydraulic fluid?

Re(3): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 4.252.25.109 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 09:41:26 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I would use a lighter medium hydraulic fluid. Larry

Re(4): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 66.67.19.53 Posted on October 12, 2007 at 04:14:32 PM by david

The problem I'm running into is that the viscosity is not listed on the containers and no one can tell me what the viscosity is. Do you have a source (retail store or online) you could recommend where I can purchase the fluid I need? Also, is it possible that there is some problem other than the viscosity being too high?

Re(5): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 4.158.84.10 Posted on October 12, 2007 at 08:19:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a hydraulic oil from my Farm Supply Store, which is a medium non-foaming hydraulic oil, which would be like a 20 weight. They have a light, which is like a 10 weight oil and a heavy, which is like a 30 weight. There is probably a Farm Supply Store of some kind in your area. I really think this is your problem . Larry

Re(6): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 66.67.19.53 Posted on October 13, 2007 at 07:56:38 AM by david

Thanks so much for your help Larry. One last question. I've got some AW 32 hydraulic fluid. The place I bought it didn't know what the viscosity was. I've talked with two others who sell it...one said it was 20w, the other said it was 10w. Do you know for sure what it is?

Re(7): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 4.158.84.214 Posted on October 14, 2007 at 01:58:40 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't know.

Re(8): #58 Front End Loader Hyraulics

IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on October 22, 2007 at 00:23:15 AM by J. Ulmer

AW 32 is aproximate to 10 w and AW 46 to 20 w. I ran into same problem on clark and michigan elevating scrapers hydraulic systems in that the spec'd oils are not produced now (30 years later) so you have to go to updated hydraulic oils (which work fine). Your system is relatively low pressure...my 292 E michigan/Hanc@ck paddle wheel scraper uses 6000 psi in the paddle motor circuit. Steering, lift, and ejection circuits are low pressure at 3000 psi !!! So get some awg 32 or 46 hydraulic oil and as Larry says you should have no problems. When your filter was stopped up is there a chance your lid could have been warped causing leakage now? Good Luck.

1800 lp

IP: 207.144.221.133 Posted on October 10, 2007 at 01:46:58 PM by Ron Hartman

I am wondering where to get carb kits for Zenith LP gas carbs.

Re(1): 1800 lp

IP: 4.252.194.143 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 06:07:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl., and see if he can help you. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1800 lp

IP: 74.196.3.100 Posted on October 26, 2007 at 10:46:54 PM by J. Ulmer

If you strike out try :R&W Supply Inc 2202 S Hall Ave., Littlefield, Texas 806/385-4447

1650 Clutch

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 10, 2007 at 01:42:01 PM by Richard

Hello Larry, I have a early style 1650D built in 1965. The clutch has been working fine for years but recently it started acting up and would not totally disengage the tranny. When I tore it down, the clutch and pressure plate did not look too bad at all however the Clutch Release Tube that the throw out bearing slides on had disentigrated and pieces of it was getting between the clutch and pressure plate causing the problems. I have a couple of questions... 1) What would cause that release tube to do that? Nothing wears on it except the throwout bearing sliding back and forth. 2) Agco ordered the parts and they do not seem to be the same. They reordered them but stated my setup was all wrong. They say in that tractor, I should have the Stepped Flywheel and instead I have the flat flywheel and a 4 pad button clutch. Was this something they changed to on a later serial number?

Re(1): 1650 Clutch

IP: 4.252.194.143 Posted on October 11, 2007 at 06:06:09 AM by Larry Harsin

1. I have seen this before. I think part of the problem, the throw-out bearing carrier gets so it binds on the tube because of lack of lubrication. You should fill the throw-out bearing carrier cavity with grease when you reassemble. Also, be sure that the pressure plate fingers are all the same height. 2. The Stepped Flywheel is a later style and came with the 4 pad button clutch, that you have. Someone has put this button clutch into your tractor, but there is nothing wrong with that. If it was working, it will work again. Your tractor was originally built with a woven lining clutch. Larry

Perkins/Waukesha

IP: 64.210.97.97 Posted on October 10, 2007 at 01:54:14 AM by elijah

I am wondering which diesel engine is the better one, or your preferance and why before I buy a tractor I'm thinking between 60 AND 100 hp. Waukesha or Perkins what should I get.

Re(1): Perkins/Waukesha

IP: 4.158.84.131 Posted on October 10, 2007 at 06:41:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I have no preferance really. They are both good engines. I'm more familiar working on a Waukesha than the Perkins, but Perkins is a very good engine. Larry

1650 Brakes

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on October 8, 2007 at 06:02:38 PM by Richard

My 1650 likes to stick the right hand brake when in reverse. It will lock up the right wheel and the only way to release it is to move forward, at which point it will make a loud pop, then release. Any ideas what to look for?

Re(1): 1650 Brakes

IP: 4.158.84.134 Posted on October 9, 2007 at 10:22:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Disassemble the brake assembly. Clean it thoroughly. Make sure the springs on the center steel plates are in good condition and not stretched. I would replace them. Also, be sure none of the linkage is rusted tight and binding. If the friction discs are oil soaked or worn, I would replace them. Larry

1655

IP: 12.154.14.189 Posted on October 8, 2007 at 06:41:38 AM by Richard Dohma

Dear Larry, I have a gas 1655 and there seems to be a noise in the transmission when you go down hill in 3rd gear and 5th. Is this a major problem? Also I need to replace the rear tractor tires, what is the actual size in todays tires I need. Thanks Richard

Re(1): 1655

IP: 4.158.84.134 Posted on October 9, 2007 at 10:18:55 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a major problem.......I would check it out. I don't know what it is, but it might be something like a loose shifting fork or something that is letting a gear get out of line..... The typical 1655 in this area, if it is a Row Crop, has 16.9x34 rear tires. Larry

Super 77 Gas- Hydraulic System

IP: 4.160.186.178 Posted on October 7, 2007 at 07:05:42 PM by Terry Allen

1) Repalced both hose and for bleeding- operated the cylinder up and down a dozen times and all seems well. Do you believe the method is acceptable for bleeding? 2) The right side (cylinder down) of the breakaway coupling leaks sometimes. Separating and reattaching several times seems to have stoped the leak, but concerned something else is needed. What do you recommend for reliability- dissabmly and cleaning? Should it, can it be rebuilt- if so where can the parts be obtained?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas- Hydraulic System

IP: 4.158.84.248 Posted on October 7, 2007 at 07:46:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is acceptable. If it is a Pioneer coupling, it probably needs a new O ring. If it is some other brand, I don't know. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Gas- Hydraulic System

IP: 4.160.180.36 Posted on October 9, 2007 at 09:22:42 PM by Terry Allen The breakaway coupling does not have a name on it. The male section has the number 521101-2 and the female section (nearest the pump) has A5221-1. Does this sound like a Pioneer? Do you know where I can get the "O" rings? The manual does not give dimensions.

Re(3): Super 77 Gas- Hydraulic System

IP: 4.158.84.134 Posted on October 9, 2007 at 10:11:44 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a standard O ring, like you can get from a Farm Store or an Implement Dealer. You may have to take the old one to the Farm Store to match, but an Implement Dealer will know what you need. Larry

Super 55 PTO Shaft

IP: 12.216.88.175 Posted on October 5, 2007 at 08:10:48 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

Larry, Just got a 1955 Super 55 Gas and it has the round cap over the pto. Im looking for the 7 1/2 inch stub shaft for the tractor. Do you have any used or new pto shafts? Also, I ordered a manual for it, but there is a lever on the right side of back of tractor, near the seat, what is this for? Im guessing something to do with the 3-pt or hydraulic.

Re(1): Super 55 PTO Shaft

IP: 4.158.84.73 Posted on October 6, 2007 at 04:59:41 AM by Larry Harsin

I do not have the shaft. Check with Kent Gordon 903-729-8349. The lever, you refer to, could be the PTO or the hydraulic, either one. They are both in that position. Larry

Oliver 1600 Industrial

IP: 74.65.34.118 Posted on October 4, 2007 at 04:43:34 PM by Larry

Larry - Before I spend time & money rebuilding the engine, I need to resolve a problem with the reverse o torc transmission. After using the tractor for a few minutes and I shut the unit off, it spits out a pint or so of fluid thru the breather unit. If I use the tractor for a longer period of time, and/or hard - no problem. Any thoughts ? FYI - my unit has a Parsons loader/backhoe .

Re(1): Oliver 1600 Industrial

IP: 4.158.84.112 Posted on October 4, 2007 at 10:52:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if the heat exchanger (oil cooler) is plugged and not cooling properly. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1600 Industrial

IP: 74.65.34.118 Posted on October 8, 2007 at 05:15:40 AM by Larry

This week-end, I checked the lines to/from the cooler, and the cooler itself - all are OK.

Re(3): Oliver 1600 Industrial

IP: 4.158.84.134 Posted on October 9, 2007 at 10:15:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You might try changing the oil and putting all new oil in it. Make sure you are using the correct oil. I think it should be automatic transmission fluid. You may be running it with the oil level too high. Larry

Super 77 Hydraulic Buzzing Sound

IP: 4.160.180.167 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:15:59 PM by Terry Allen

When the tractor was obtained, the hydraulics worked; however, it was approx 1 gal low. When filled, noticed a buzzing sound all the time. Is the relief valve bad? The manual talks about an optional adjustable valve. Can you advise method to fix- replace or rebuild existing valve, add an adjustable relief valve? Where could the necessary parts be obtained, if needed?

Re(1): Super 77 Hydraulic Buzzing Sound

IP: 4.252.194.47 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:23:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The buzzing sound is not abnormal. The relief valve isn't necessarily bad. Get a pressure gauge and check the pressures on both sides of that unit. It should be approx. 1000 lbs. pressure. If it is in the range of 900-1100 lbs., I would leave it alone. Larry

Oliver 550 Saginaw power steering

IP: 151.201.86.10 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 01:45:17 PM by oliver t griswold

the high pressure line to my saginaw power steering valve is loose at the fitting. the nut seems to be froze to the steel line. should it be loose so i can back it out or do you have to take the entire valve out to spin out the nut / line?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Saginaw power steering

IP: 4.252.194.47 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:20:04 PM by Larry Harsin

That nut should turn on that line. I'd reccomend that you warm it up with a torch. Larry

Oliver 99

IP: 69.223.56.211 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 01:42:48 PM by william rapp

My question is regarding the years of production and in what year did they change the front end syle from being flat and square to the more rounded style of the newer versions

Re(1): Oliver 99

IP: 4.252.194.47 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:18:06 PM by Larry Harsin

They started building the 99 before WWII, and built them thru 1952. They went to the styled version in 1953. It was 6 cylinder, 4 speed. They built them like this one year (Approx. 1000 of them). Then, they came with the Super 99 6 speed. Larry

550 gas ballast resistor

IP: 128.255.153.137 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 02:35:36 PM by Mike Wardenburg

Hi Larry, Does my 550 gas have a ballast resistor in the points circuit? If so what is the valu in ohms? Thanks

Re(1): 550 gas ballast resistor

IP: 4.158.84.234 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 09:44:08 PM by Larry Harsin

They don't have one that I know of. Larry

Re(2): 550 gas ballast resistor

IP: 65.121.139.193 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 02:41:49 PM by Brian Decatur co. Ia

If its 12 volt it has one. You will burn points if it doesn't have one. Years ago the auto makers built the ballast into the wire harness except for Chrysler. I have found the coil used on K series Kohler engines with battery ignition works fine for tractors as it has the ballast built into the coil. The ballast resistor is typically about 3 ohms. You will need a digital meter to read it. If you have a 6 volt system you don't need a ballast.

Re(3): 550 gas ballast resistor

IP: 4.252.194.47 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:13:03 PM by Larry Harsin

There were no 550's built with 6 volt system. They were all 12 volt. It didn't have a ballast resistor when it was new. It should have a 12 volt coil with the 12 volt system. If you have trouble with it burning the points, you can install one of these resistors, but it shouldn't be necessary. Larry

550 gas wiring diagram

IP: 128.255.153.137 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 01:58:15 PM by Mike Wardenburg

Hi Larry,Where can I find a wiring diagram for my gas 550? I think it is a 1958 model.

Re(1): 550 gas wiring diagram

IP: 4.158.84.234 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 09:42:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The wiring diagram is in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City: Email: fchs@fiai.net Also, Korves Bros. has wiring diagrams. www.korvesoliver.com Larry

1800B hub

IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 04:05:29 PM by Bryan

Anyone know were I can find wear cups and seals for the front hub off a Oliver 1800. I found a new hub and got new wheel bearings but cannot find the seals or wear cups.

Re(1): 1800B hub

IP: 4.158.84.129 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 07:18:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The Row Crop uses the same seals as the older RC tractors, which is 163101A seal, the wear cup is K 738. However, if you have a wheatland tractor, the last I heard is that those seals and wear cups are no longer available. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and see what he has. 800-320-6224. Larry

770 oliver engine rebuild

IP: 66.21.122.130 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 11:36:06 AM by Marty McClure

I am going to build the engine on my 770 and I was wondering if I can bore the old sleeves to 3 3/4 and use a 1550 pistons.And will it help that much on power?

Re(1): 770 oliver engine rebuild

IP: 4.158.84.129 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 07:15:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think you will gain that much hp, unless you have the head modified. I would rather use the 3 5/8 that came in a 1550 and stop there. Korves has the 3 5/8 and the 3 3/4 sleeves and pistons, so you wouldn't have the expense of machining the old sleeves. 618-939-6681. Larry

Re(2): 770 oliver engine rebuild

IP: 66.21.122.130 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 11:19:33 AM by Marty Mcclure

Is there a diffrence in the 770 and 1550 piston or are they the same.It makes more sense as you said to use the 3 5/8 piston,especially with gas prices.the 770 is pretty economical to use and the have plenty of hp bone stock.I just was thinking well while Im at it do it all the way and increase the hp.I only use it to ted and rake hay with and maby an occasional stoll through the field with a two bottom plow so I guess stock bore is just fine.I have had this tractor for about 2 years.I had bought it from a guy who advertises tractors on antique tractors.com and I think he may have doctored up the engine to sell it.I had been working on it staitening up the wirering and some power steering leaks and just kinda using it here nad there.Well I went to change the oil and filter and to my surprise it started pooring the smoke.Needless to say I have too much in it to turn back now.I just wish he would have been honest with me.Thanks for the advice on the rebuild.

Re(3): 770 oliver engine rebuild

IP: 4.252.194.47 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 09:08:32 PM by Larry Harsin

The 770 was built with 3 1/2" pistons, when it was new. I would reccomend that you go with 3 5/8", I wouldn't use a 3 3/4", for the uses that you describe. Larry

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