OLIVER 1855

IP: 216.158.78.82 Posted on November 16, 2003 at 02:38:09 PM by LARRY GARDNER

I HAVE AN 354 PERKINS I WOULD LIKE TO FIND A HOME FOR IN AN 1850-1855 OLIVER. I WOULD LIKE TO FIND AN 1850 WITH A BLOWN MOTOR AND SWAP IT OUT. I TALKED WITH A FORMER OLIVER DEALER AND HE MENTIONED IF IT ORIGINALLY WAS A GASER IT WOULD BE HARD TO FIT A DIESEL IN WITHOUT SWAPING OUT THE RAILS. IS THAT SO AND DO YOU KNOW OF A GOOD PLACE TO START LOOKING FOR SUCH A TRACTOR

Re(1): OLIVER 1855

IP: 67.2.249.94 Posted on November 16, 2003 at 09:48:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of a tractor right now. Yes, what the dealer told you about swapping the rails is true. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Imp. 800-320-6224 and see if he has a tractor or a front frame for you. Larry

Re(1): OLIVER 1855

IP: 206.105.8.227 Posted on November 17, 2003 at 04:46:34 AM by Bubba

Join HPOCA. See http://hartparroliver.org. The magazine ads are the best place to start.

lights brackets

IP: 67.217.167.219 Posted on November 16, 2003 at 08:08:28 AM by Don Varnes

Do you have lights and or brackets for a 60 oliver rc 1942

Re(1): lights brackets

IP: 67.2.242.43 Posted on November 16, 2003 at 02:26:28 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these. Check with Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332 or Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net. Larry

880 diesel

IP: 199.120.106.70 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 10:45:20 PM by Tom Nichols

I wrote you before harvest, I'm pulling the crank on the 880 diesel. How do I remove the plate that the injector pump is mounted on? If the two slot head screws are the answer? I can not get them to turn! Any suggestions?

Re(1): 880 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 11:11:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is what you have to do. You'll have to take a little punch and a hammer and get them to move and then they will unscrew right out. Larry

It works

IP: 216.106.56.101 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 07:09:19 PM by Jason Epperson

Well Larry we finally got the power beyond figured out and it works fine. As you said, I plumbed into the drain hole underneath the flow divider and that made it work. I want to thank you and your wife for your help and my frequent phone calls interrupting you. I really appreciate the help. Thank you.

Re(1): It works

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 11:09:10 PM by Larry Harsin

We are glad we were able to help you. Larry and Sandra

Oliver 2150 Tractor

IP: 208.247.100.130 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 11:34:17 AM by Casimer Maliszewski

I am interested in buying an Oliver 2150 2 or 4 wheel drive. Distance no problem...My phone number is 585-343-1854..

Re(1): Oliver 2150 Tractor

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 11:07:05 PM by Larry Harsin

We have one and I will call you. Larry

1950 Shifting problem

IP: 66.190.15.127 Posted on November 14, 2003 at 10:07:45 PM by MikeO

We use our 1950 Oliver with the 4-53 Detroit to pump water during the summer. After backing the tractor in, we left the shifter in the upper (lower speed) set of gears. When we finished up the season, I drove it out using this range of gears at first. I then shifted to the higher set of gears and it ran just a short distance and killed the engine. Found out that if I try to put it into gear, it wants to kill. We had to pull it home, running with the shifter in the upper gear range. What am I looking at to fix?

Re(1): 1950 Shifting problem

IP: 67.2.248.133 Posted on November 14, 2003 at 10:19:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I imagine that the lubrications to the input shaft failed in some way and you will find that the gears on the top shaft in the transmission have run short of oil and have siezed up. You will have to take it apart and find your problem. Larry

2-62 Industrial Reversr-O-Torc Parts

IP: 204.30.93.32 Posted on November 14, 2003 at 01:03:40 PM by F. Scott Weekes

I'm looking for new parts for a complete overhaul on the Reverse-O-Torc reversing gear in a 1967 Oliver 2-62 Industrial. Manufactured by Funk Mfg. Co. Serisl Number on case assembly is 21204. Part number is 161373-AS

Re(1): 2-62 Industrial Reversr-O-Torc Parts

IP: 67.2.248.133 Posted on November 14, 2003 at 10:13:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Funk Mfg. Co. is located at Coffeeville KS. But those parts are shown in the Oliver parts books. I think if you contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, he will be able to help you. Larry

1850 power steering leaks

IP: 216.176.88.81 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 05:58:33 AM by Tom Moran

The power steering sector under the steering wheel leaks badly and turns to the right on it's own.What is the best fix for this? A local mechanic suggested getting a used sector from a 545 oliver combine.I have also heard of people using sectors from 510 massey combines that are a charlyn model,not the saginaw which I have. Thanks for any suggestions.

Re(1): 1850 power steering leaks

IP: 67.2.248.9 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 07:05:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Both of those suggestions are good and will work. A new sector is expensive. You can also change to the Char-Lynn if you want. Larry

70 standard

IP: 66.186.170.168 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 04:42:39 AM by Ron Grother

just got a Cockshutt 70 no gauges in it. what color are they and did they have a name on them. what size are the rear tires. Thanks Ron

Re(1): 70 standard

IP: 67.2.248.9 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 07:00:04 AM by Larry Harsin

The gauges said Oliver on them and Korves Bros have reproduction gauges for that tractor. Email: korves@htc.net. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. An Operator's manual will give you all the options that came with your tractor. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Water pump

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 08:52:01 PM by Mike Renner

Hi Larry. Will a water pump off of a rowcrop 77 work on a rowcrop 88? Thank you for your time & help? Mike Renner

Re(1): Water pump

IP: 67.2.249.155 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 10:22:49 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are different. Larry

Lost gears in 1650

IP: 205.217.67.233 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 12:39:26 AM by Alan Wernette

My 1650 just developed a problem with shifting. I can no longer shift into 2nd and 4th gear (High Speed Row Crop shift pattern). This all started immediately after changing transmission fluid and degreasing the tractor. I can easily shift into all the other gears. I noticed that the 2 gears are both to the right and down on the shifting sequence. Could the problem be in the shifting linkage and is it easy to fix?

Re(1): Lost gears in 1650

IP: 67.2.248.174 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 06:54:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Did you put the transmission grease in the front filler hole by the transmission shift lever? If you didn't, you may not have transmission grease in your transmission. This could be your problem. Larry

Re(1): Lost gears in 1650

IP: 206.105.8.186 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 06:24:51 AM by Bubba

Two things:

1) The T/FD and PTO share the same supply. There is a specific procedure to change the 75w-90 gear oil, clean one filter, and replace the other. If you weren't able to get the whole 8 gallons of gear oil in it, that could be the problem.

2) The shifter operates using shift rails. Take the cover off under the shift boot. If one of the rails has flipped over, you have to reset it with a long screwdriver used as a pry bar.

Hercules RXC Manifolds

IP: 65.170.120.147 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 10:52:39 AM by Bill Wiley

I have been trying for some time now to locate the exhaust and intake manifolds for my Hercules Model RXC engine. I was hoping that since these engines were use in some Olivers and Cletracs maybe this form my come up with some information. As always, any help will be gratefully appreciated. Bill Wiley chiefwiley391@yahoo.com

Re(1): Hercules RXC Manifolds

IP: 67.2.248.174 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 06:50:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net. Larry

550 Wheel Sizes

IP: 207.144.87.229 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 06:22:41 PM by J.Mash

My 550 has 28" wheels, I would like to put 26" or 24" wheels on it. Who can I talk to about getting some? My 28" wheels and tires are fairly new.

Re(1): 550 Wheel Sizes

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 08:21:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Look in salvage yards. Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry

Re(1): 550 Wheel Sizes

IP: 206.105.8.84 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 07:06:31 AM by Bubba

Try www.millertire.com

Looking for single front wheel assembly for Oliver 66

IP: 65.118.231.193 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 04:06:58 PM by John

Was wondering if you might have one of these if so please email me. thanks alot

Re(1): Looking for single front wheel assembly for Oliver 66

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 08:17:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Larry

oliver identification

IP: 209.236.225.245 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 02:22:33 PM by Larry A. Dawley

I have not seen this tractor as it is 300mi. north. The serial number is 14695-705 or -702. Can you tell me the year, model , what type of fuel gas, diesel , Lp. I do not have the specification number. What would that number tell us? Thanks

Re(1): oliver identification

IP: 67.2.242.98 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 08:15:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Actually, we need more information, but it could be a 770 built around 1964. We can't tell you what fuel it uses. Larry

51 RC88 Diesel Fuel Leaks

IP: 172.162.123.216 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 10:02:43 PM by Alan Jones

I have a RC88 diesel tractor that has been internally altered for tractor pulling that runs absolutely great it very is easy to start even in cold weather however it is plagued with several fuel leaks. Because it runs so well 70hp at pto I have been reluctant to bother it. It is leaking at 5 of the six injectors as well as at the primary fuel pump and fuel filter "rt side of engine" on this fuel pump I tried to snug up the screws holding the pump together and found one to be stripped. The water separater that is attached to the pump also leaks. O-ring? Then on the other side of the engine the fuel filter leaks, On these fuel filters on both sides do the new elements come with o-rings or gaskets? Basically I guess I need to reseal the entire fuel system. If the tractor where yours where would you start? Also considering the engine alterations is there a chance the injectors have been altered? I do not know the mechanical history of the tractor, it was bought at an auction all I know is that the head has been reworked or replaced what has been done to it I dont know. Any help with this project would be appreciated.

Re(1): 51 RC88 Diesel Fuel Leaks

IP: 67.2.249.22 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 10:29:20 PM by Larry Harsin

It is just a common problem on these fuel systems. Part no. K 5304 is the gasket for the strainer on the transfer pump. There are rubber compression rings on the fuel lines between the transfer pump and the fuel filters. These can be obtained at your AGCO dealer. The leaks on the injectors are usually concerned with the compression fittings on the "Tees" for the drip lines. Sometimes, these drip lines need to be replaced as they will not reseal. You may have to make these using copper tubing and a flaring tool. They may be furnished yet, though, from your dealer. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 51 RC88 Diesel Fuel Leaks

IP: 209.132.168.104 Posted on November 11, 2003 at 07:17:31 PM by Joe

I share the frustration with fuel leaks. About a year ago, I obtained the "T's" from an Agco dlr for about $2+ each (1K-1715) - went to auto parts house and fitted brake lines with fittings to the T's. Used short enough brake line stubs to run rubber fuel line from the pump, straight between each nozzle, and up to the tank return fitting. Not OE but it hasn't leaked yet and makes it makes removal of nozzles much easier than threading the solid drip lines.

For rubber compression grommets, a few inches of fuel line sliced to width using a single edge rasor blade makes new ones quickly. Hopefully, there is a photo link to Y/T attached. The return line is black, right under the injection lines.

removing hydralics on 88

IP: 205.208.129.66 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 08:56:47 PM by dave

need to loose some weight on super 88. what needs to be done to remove hydralic system. did oliver make a cover to go over the opening. thanks dave

Re(1): removing hydralics on 88

IP: 67.2.249.22 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 10:20:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they made a cover. First remove the PTO shaft. Then you can pull the hydraulic unit up out of the transmission. There are cast iron lids that are made to install in place of the hydraulic. If you want one, email me. I'll check and see if I have one. Larry

Runs, then dies.

IP: 129.239.195.96 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 05:40:25 PM by Brian Timmons

My Oliver 77HC will run great for 1 minute, then it dies. If I wait a few minutes it will restart, run, and die. I have cleaned the fuel tank and rebuilt the carburetor. After it dies, I have removed the drain plug from the carb bowl and fuel flows out continuously. I did some electrical checks and found the battery was being charged to 9V. It has the origonal 6V system. How do I adjust the regulator? Could the high battery voltage be causing a failure in the ignition circuit? Any help is appreciated.

Re(1): Runs, then dies.

IP: 206.105.8.52 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 06:11:48 PM by Bubba

Run it without the gas cap. If that works, clean the vent in the cap or replace it. If not, replace the ignition coil.

Re(2): Runs, then dies.

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 06:22:49 PM by Larry from MD

The generator has to make that many volts to charge the battery.A good new battery will read allmost that high.

Re(3): Runs, then dies.

IP: 67.2.249.22 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 10:16:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Both of these guys have good ideas. I would check the ignition points and replace them if necessary. I would check the condition of the wiring and the connections that goes to the ignition coil from the switch and also from the coil to the distributor. Larry

Re(4): Runs, then dies.

IP: 129.239.195.96 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 05:36:43 PM by Brian Timmons

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll start with the wiring, it has some insulation missing in places. So, it sounds like the battery charging at 9 volts is OK?

Re(5): Runs, then dies.

IP: 67.2.249.16 Posted on November 13, 2003 at 09:35:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that is o.k. Larry

exhaust manifold

IP: 206.176.217.55 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 03:39:01 PM by greg

Hi Larry, do you have or do you know where I can get a good used exhaust manifold for a super 77 or 770.

Re(1): exhaust manifold

IP: 67.2.249.1 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 05:39:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one and I don't know who does. Try contacting some salvage yards. Here are some in our area: Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304 Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry

550 Stumble

IP: 207.144.87.221 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 04:49:36 PM by J.Mash

I just rebuilt my carb,When I pull the throttle quickly going uphill it stumbles a little. Air screw is open 3/4 a turn,load screw 1 1/2turns.Elevation here is about 4000ft.

Re(1): 550 Stumble

IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 06:07:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I would open the load needle a little more. Try that and see. Larry

Hercules Dooc rear seal

IP: 144.134.97.185 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 04:35:12 AM by Tim McCauley

Hi, I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm getting bad links when I try to search the archives. We have an Oliver (Cletrac) AD crawler with a Dooc Hercules 4cyl diesel. It runs well but there is to much oil getting into the clutch compartment. It may just be that the oil level in the sump were too high or the holes that allow the seal to drain back were clogged up. But can anyone out there give me tips on how to asses the state of health of the seal and is it possible to get a replacment if that is needed? Thanks, Tim McCauley

Re(1): Hercules Dooc rear seal

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 07:54:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Check this out with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net. He is a Cletrac expert and has parts. Larry

880 help

IP: 64.251.142.239 Posted on November 8, 2003 at 08:00:45 PM by Luther

I have an 880 just rebuilt but a little weak on horsepower. We're gonna switch the bosch pump to a roosamaster and everything from a 1600 to make this work. Injectors are rebuilt. The motor is also totally rebuilt. My questions are can I turbocharge this motor are will the bottom fail? I'd like to be able to hold 100 to 125 horse. I hope I'm not dreaming. Do I need to do extensive work to the head for this horse or can I get by with what I have? I have an 1800 exhaust manifold to help flow but I know the exhaust valves are small.Can I use 1855 rods if drilled or is that possible? I have the bigger crankshaft. What do you think I could get out of this motor with just the pump change? Is the nozzle preassure something I need to worry about or will this be alright? Can you give me any advice on timing the different pump? I apologize for so many questions! Any help is so greatly appreciated! By the way, how much for a Cummins conversion kit? Thank you so much.

Re(1): 880 help

IP: 206.105.8.150 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 04:09:57 AM by Bubba

You are dreaming. I'm not aware of any Cummins "kit" but you'll spend $10k to do a decent conversion. Then you will tear up the rest of the drivetrain. If you want a 125 hp tractor, buy one. A 1950 with a GM and a little work should do it.

Re(2): 880 help

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 07:52:31 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, I don't think you are going to gain any HP by switching to the Rossamaster pump. Is your Bosch pump in good condition? Has it been checked out? I wouldn't reccommend adding a turbo until you are sure your injection system is working properly. I think the engine will perform better with a turbo but I don't think you should expect to use it under constant load at more than 80 HP. If you do exceed 80 HP, I think you will shorten the life of the engine. Also I think you are going to have problems keeping it cool. With a turbo on there, at higher HP readings the oil capacity and the oiling system will be a problem. You are dreaming at 100 - 125 HP as that engine is not designed for that. I wouldn't exceed 80 HP. I don't know about using 1855 rods. Those new design rods are not for the early design oiling system. The later style rod is designed for full pressure crankshaft and the engine you are working with is not a full pressure crandshaft, so they won't work. With a top notch pump only, you won't get any more than 60 HP, with a turbo you might get up to 80 HP. More HP and you will blow it up!!! Nozzle pressure should not exceed 2000 lbs. To time the 1600 pump, you'll have to use 1600 specs. We don't have a Cummins Conversion Kit. Check price with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Also, check with Adam Shiflett about the Cummins Conversion. He's experienced in this. AShiflett@AgFirst.com. Larry

Re(3): 880 help

IP: 64.251.143.29 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 08:45:05 PM by Luther

Larry, thanks for all the info! The cummins conversion was for a different tractor.I think 75 to 80 horse is more than plenty also out of this tractor was curious how far I could push it. It won't be ran at the high horse constantly, just at some pulls.My bosch pump has a weak head which you know is expensive to rebuild. The roosamaster pump is rebuilt from my adviser/mechanic who helps me alot with all my "problems". How big of turbo can I turn at stock r.p.m.? Do i need to change my oil pump to make this work? Or should I scrap this idea and be happy with what I have? I've got plenty in the motor already. Again, thank you for your time and I've talked to Tom at O'Brien many times. Their great people to work with and are very helpful. Once again, thanks!

Re(4): 880 help

IP: 68.155.14.91 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 09:45:42 PM by george steadman

A big factor in turbo size is cubes and head work for flow. The amount of boost needs to be below 15lbs. unless you do some major bottom end work. I have accomplished good and bad with an 88 engine. It dynoed for 140 but could not keep the head gasket in, fixed that and had to work on the bottom. I think with the proper rebuild you can have a lot of fun.

Re(5): 880 help

IP: 67.2.249.22 Posted on November 10, 2003 at 10:33:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I would follow George's reccommendations. He is more experienced with this than I am. Larry

Re(5): 880 help

IP: 64.251.140.191 Posted on November 12, 2003 at 08:43:40 PM by Luther

Once again, thanks Larry! I'll have to "grill" george for info. George, when you talk about the proper rebuild are tou saying to factory specs as mine is, or something more? I've talked to a machinist about porting and polishing and I think this will happen because I have to dismantle my newly rebuilt motor to install the roosamaster pump.I want to use an 1800 exhaust manifold for more flow and maybe an easier base plate to adapt a turbo to. If I push 100 horse, do you think I'll need to do the bottom end work as you say and what needs to be done? 140 horse is absolutely incredible from an 88! Thanks so very much and as soon as it snows here (St.Louis), we're going to tear her apart. May need your help again at that time. Thanks!

70 oliver

IP: 207.225.216.190 Posted on November 8, 2003 at 07:22:40 PM by Gary Roholt

I have a 1943 model 70 oliver. I need to replace the rear tires. The size on tire is 11R-40. I am not having any luck finding tires of this size and would like to change the rims to a 38 or 42 inch tire. I need to know what rims are interchangeable with the ones that I have.

Re(1): 70 oliver

IP: 206.105.8.150 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 04:11:41 AM by Bubba

See www.millertire.com

Re(2): 70 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.188 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 07:33:43 AM by Larry Harsin

John Deere used some 38 inch rims. Oliver used 38 inch rims on their later 70's and Massy Harris used some rims that would work. But you will have to get the splined hub (9 bolt) from another 70 to be able to use these other rims. Check with Arnold Meyer at: almeyer@frontiernet.net or Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332. Larry

Re(3): 70 oliver

IP: 207.225.216.190 Posted on November 15, 2003 at 05:19:53 PM by Gary Roholt

Thank you for the information!

Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 66.222.53.16 Posted on November 8, 2003 at 03:59:43 PM by Harvey Fry

Recently acquired a 1940 model. Has a distributor on it instead of a magneto and runs nice and smooth. Sheet metal and the rest of the tractor seems to be in real good shape. However, it does spit oil and a light smoke out the exhaust. Intend to run a compression check, but can't find the values for compression in my manuals. Have JD's & IH's, but this is my first Oliver. Would appreciate any help, & ideas. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 206.105.8.150 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 04:15:55 AM by Bubba

The values are not that important. Run a dry check first. All cylinders should be within 10% of each other. Then run a wet check (squirt oil in each plug hole). If any cylinder comes up more than 10%-15%, the rings/walls are worn.

Re(2): Oliver 70 rowcrop

IP: 66.222.55.170 Posted on November 9, 2003 at 12:25:28 AM by H. Fry

Bubba, thanks. Will try that procedure. Appreciate the help.

1750 Hydrolics

IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on November 8, 2003 at 08:53:22 AM by Phil

Larry, I have a snowblower on my 1750 (3-point hitch). I want to use the left remote lever only to change snout direction from left to right. I have not connected the hoses yet but I notice when I pull the lever back, I hear the pump labor and when I push the lever forward, I hear nothing which indicates that it is set up for one way operation. If that is the case when I get the hoses conneted, can I change the left lever to two way operation? Thanks.

Re(1): 1750 Hydrolics

IP: 67.2.242.35 Posted on November 8, 2003 at 03:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can change it. Larry

Oil Filter Base

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 06:07:27 PM by Frankie Friday

Where can I get the oil fitler conversion piece for the 1650 diesel?

Re(1): Oil Filter Base

IP: 67.2.249.122 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 09:47:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with your AGCO dealer or with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1800 Wheatland Sheetmetal?

IP: 199.199.181.194 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 11:10:28 AM by Ryan

I am working on restoring my 1963 1800 Wheatland Diesel, only problem is that the sheetmetal that wraps around that platform is missing.(only wheatlands have this). I need the door for the left side and the entire right side. I have looked all over the country w/ no luck. Any help is appreciated.

Re(1): 1800 Wheatland Sheetmetal?

IP: 206.105.8.178 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 04:06:23 PM by Bubba

I would run an ad in the HPOCA magazine. Pretty sure "wanted" ads are free for members.

Re(2): 1800 Wheatland Sheetmetal?

IP: 67.2.249.122 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 09:44:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rempel Salvage in Canada 800-244-7662 Larry

99 4cyl.

IP: 162.40.91.1 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 12:02:18 AM by Eric

I am looking for a manifold for a 1947 99 4cyl. I also would like to know the value of a restored 99 4cyl. so I can tell if the tractor I found is a cost effective restoration project. Thanks

Re(1): 99 4cyl.

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 01:49:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen one of these sell. I think you would have a hard time getting $3000 for one restored and repainted. You can get a manifold from Rosewood Machine and Tool 937-362-2871. Larry

770 Overhaul

IP: 208.188.159.131 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 10:30:15 AM by gary

overhauling a 770 gas. does going to a 3 5/8 overbore change much? also the camshaft bushing should i change it out what do i need to look for. this engine ran great but when i heard a slight knock i found that the whole top ring was wore out!! thanks

Re(1): 770 Overhaul

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 01:44:51 PM by Larry Harsin

The 3 5/8 overbore will work very well in your 770. I would replace that camshaft bushing. With the 3 5/8 overbore, your engine will be almost identical to a 1550 engine. I have done this also to S77's and that works very well. Don't set the ignition timing any faster than what the book reccommends. It won't be necessary to do any alterations in the carb, everything will be compatible. If it acts like it is running too lean on the load mixture, you may want to discard the limiting jet. However, if it runs fine, don't monkey with it. Larry

Re(2): 770 Overhaul

IP: 208.188.159.131 Posted on November 7, 2003 at 07:28:35 AM by gary

thanks a million, I just found out about your web site sorry about the no subject! its very nice that your time is given!!

66RC hyd filter

IP: 204.96.180.109 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 08:16:52 PM by Steve

Where is the hydraulic filter SUPPOSED to be on a 66RC?

Re(1): 66RC hyd filter

IP: 67.2.248.241 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 05:51:27 AM by Larry Harsin

The early 66RC's did not have a hydraulic filter. I think they started adding filters to the units in late 1953. On the later 66's, it is very evident on the right side of the unit. Larry

88 frame

IP: 207.69.140.15 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 06:51:52 PM by Victor

Is the super 88 row crop frame the same as a 88 row crop frame. I recently broke my super 88 tractor in two and I was thinking about fixing it up since the tractor was rebuild once and ran really good.

Re(1): 88 frame

IP: 64.68.172.76 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 09:18:43 PM by David

The Super 88 frame is different. An 88 frame will work, but it will not have the bolt holes in side of frame for attachments. I have a super 88 frame for sale I would sell for 75.00 Plus freight Where do you live? I am in north central So. Dak.

Re(2): 88 frame

IP: 207.69.140.55 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 10:09:18 PM by Victor

I live Luverne Mn. wich is 30 mile's east of Sioux Falls S.D. Let me know how much freight is or I might just drive to your location.

1655 front leak

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 04:06:41 PM by Carl

Hi Larry, I'm starting on my wintertime repairs as field work is pretty much done for the year here in WI. I have a 1655 that has been leaking hydraulic fluid in the front for quite a while. It looks like its coming from the bottom of that cylinder shaped housing that sits down in the tub under the radiator. The wide front fastens to bottom of it. There must be a seal in this. What's involved in replacing the seal? Have you done this before? Thanks!

Re(1): 1655 front leak

IP: 67.2.249.157 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 06:30:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, I have done it before and it isn't too hard to do. There are 2 "O" rings you will need and a quad ring. The front wheels should be straight ahead before you begin this procedure. I find the easiest way to do this is to loosen the 6 bolts that hold the wide front up to the tractor frame. Also, loosen the 3 bolts that hold the wishbone to the tractor frame. You loosen all these bolts so that the front end can be lowered approx. a 1/2 inch. This will allow more room to work at the top of the power steering cylinder to remove the lid. 2 three eighths cap screws secure the lid. There is also a 1/8 inch pipe plug in the center of the lid, that you can remove using an Allen wrench. This lid will be removable by prying it up and taking it out of there. Then, you will see a metal plug in the top of the sector. You will have to remove this by prying it with 2 screw drivers. It has an "O" ring on it. After removing the plug with the "O" ring, you can unscrew the sector using a 1 1/8 in socket. Simply unscrew it, like you would a bolt. After you break it loose and start loosening it, it will start turning hard again. Simply keep turning the same way and it will break the sector loose from the pitman shaft on your wide front. After you have accompolished the above, you will need to remove the 6 bolts in the pedestal plus the 3 in the wishbone, and install 2 longer guide bolts (approx. 4 - 5 inch long bolts). Now, jack the front of the tractor up until the sector clears the pitman shaft. Then you will be able to install the quad ring that is leaking on the bottom of your power steering housing. You may have to remove the sector completely to accompolish this, but not always. Then reverse the order to reassemble. Be careful to install the sector properly as it is timed to the rack. There are timing marks on the sector. Removal of the radiator, for me, is not necessary, but for a first timer, it may make it easier for you. Good Luck! Larry

Re(2): 1655 front leak

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on November 6, 2003 at 04:07:29 PM by Carl

Thanks Larry, I have a clutch project in a 1650 gas that I need to finish yet, then I will get started on this project. I printed out your instructions as a guide to start me out. I will post back if I run into problems. Again thanks for your help! Carl

Steering shaft Super 44

IP: 206.137.39.87 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 08:12:12 AM by Jason Spence

The steering shaft that comes out of the steering box on my Super 44 is bent, the bushing in the box are in need of replacement and the splines on the end of the shaft are worn. Whats the chance of finding a steering shaft for this model.Did Oliver use that same steering box on another model? If so, which? Thank you, Jason Spence

Re(1): Steering shaft Super 44

IP: 67.2.249.157 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 06:11:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Ollie Schaefer about that. Ollie has a lot of experience with S44's and 440's. He even has some parts. Email him at: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry

Oil Filter Base

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 07:08:22 PM by Frankie Friday

Do they make a piece for the oil filter where I could put a screw on filter on a 1650 Diesel?

Re(1): Oil Filter Base

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 07:09:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I have seen where they used a base from a 1650 gas for that filter, but I have not done it myself. We would welcome remarks from someone else who has done this. Larry

Re(2): Oil Filter Base

IP: 206.105.8.193 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 02:31:37 PM by Bubba

This is a bolt-on deal, the parts are spec'd in the parts book. Any AGCO dealer should be able to supply them.

Re(3): Oil Filter Base

IP: 152.163.253.8 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 05:34:53 PM by Vernon Smith

Use only the parts specified,I have a 1955 that some one added a spin on for the by pass filter and it raised the oil pressure at start up to 160psi for about 3 minutes.The turbo becomes your releif valve and sprays oil out of the seals until it comes down to normal.

Re(1): Oil Filter Base

IP: 216.106.90.160 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 05:56:14 PM by Aug

I have a 1650 D, 1750 D, and an 1850 G all have been converted to the spin on oil filter adaptor. I use the same spin on wix filter for these engines as the 1850 diesel uses. This works well but with the sock filter you can inspect the used filter easier for bearing material.

1953 88RC

IP: 216.37.132.131 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 07:00:34 PM by Greg Salvatore

I am looking for a narrrow front end for my 88 , I am also looking for 6 new or rebiult injectors, a loder or snow plow, or 3pt hitch for it.hope you can help me . thanks

Re(1): 1953 88RC

IP: 68.155.12.184 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 09:13:24 PM by George Steadman

Light hubs or heavy hubs on the front end. I have 6 rebuilt injectors sitting in the box.

Re(1): 1953 88RC

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 07:06:32 AM by Larry Harsin

We have a narrow front and a choice of loaders for your 88. If you are interested in these, email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com For an after market 3 pt., you can get one from Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): 1953 88RC

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 07:13:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Did you read the posting just before your post? There is an Oliver loader in Michigan. It might be closer for you. Larry

Looking For A 1950 Oliver RowCrop with a Detroit

IP: 24.123.203.255 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 05:06:01 PM by Tim

Iam looking for a nice 1950 Oliver RowCrop with a Detroit. Can anybody tell me where I can find one or two. Thanks!

Re(1): Looking For A 1950 Oliver RowCrop with a Detroit

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:34:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Check the ads in the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine. Also, in Antique Power magazine. You can also run a "want" ad in one of those magazines. For the HPOCA magazine, contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com Antique Power has a website: www.antiquepower.com Larry

how many with Creeper gear

IP: 205.181.102.119 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 09:37:24 AM by howard

does any body know how many 1949 88 with factory wide front and a creeper gear trans. are they a dime a dozen or are they rare thanks howard

Re(1): how many with creeper gear

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:31:20 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that they tend to be rare, I'm not sure. I don't believe they know how many were made. The creeper transmission is what is rare. We have a S77 diesel with a power-booster creeper in it. Larry

Super55/550 Engine

IP: 63.126.248.204 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 09:19:46 AM by Sanford Kelley

I have a Oliver tractor ident no.45-0061 S/N 85-035-519 with engine S/N 1103485. What is the engine? An Oliver or Waukesha or ? It recently broke a ring and I need to what kit to purchase to repair engine.

Re(1): Super55/550 Engine

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 04:50:55 PM by Larry from MD

Its a 550 and an oliver engine.

Re(2): Super55/550 Engine

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:28:43 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a 550. It's an Oliver engine built by Waukesha. You can get engine parts from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. You can get engine parts from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

880 cab

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 07:37:02 AM by Glen Durbs

Did they make a cab for an 880? If so would you have a place to get them, and how much would I expect to pay? Thanks!

Re(1): 880 cab

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:23:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Cozy Cab made one for 880's. I don't know if they are still in business. What you would expect to pay if you found one, would depend on condition. Perhaps $200 - $500. Larry

Oliver baler

IP: 151.201.16.250 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 05:29:19 AM by Paul

Larry Graet site! Do you know the vintage of a oliver 50 twine-tie baler. I am looking at 1 and just wanted to have a idea on the year of it. It baled this year what do you think it could be worth? thanx for your help Paul

Re(1): Oliver baler

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:21:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The number 50 baler was built in the late 50's. I would say that if it is in working condition, it would be worth from $400 - $800. Larry

power beyond installation

IP: 216.106.56.97 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 10:28:48 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I am putting on a two spool valve to run my loader on my 1800 C. I have the shop manual on the 1800 and 1850. They both say to remove two 1/2 inch pipe plugs and put a 3/8 plug back in the housing about six inches on the intake side. The plugs on my tractor are 3/8 instead of 1/2 and I am guessing that I will have to put a 1/4 plug back in the housing. Is this correct? Thank you

Re(1): power beyond installation

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:18:07 PM by Larry Harsin

No, that is not correct. I'll go out and look at my 1800 C in the morning and answer this again later. Larry

Re(2): power beyond installation

IP: 216.106.56.93 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 07:09:39 PM by Jason Epperson

The plugs I am looking at are about a 1/2 in diameter but they have 3/8 pipe threads. Is this right? All of the other plugs on this tractor are the same size except for the big ones on the bottom of the unit.

Re(3): power beyond installation

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on November 5, 2003 at 07:54:30 AM by Larry Harsin

The plugs that you will remove to attach the 1/2 inch hoses, will be 1/2 inch pipe thread. If your hydraulic unit has the filter on the front of the unit like a 50 series, remove the 1/2 inch pipe plug at the left upper side of the unit by the filter. See if you can find a threaded passage straight back in that hole. If you do, plug it. Then to go back into the unit from the valve: directly back and on the cast lid, facing to the front, you will remove that 1/2 inch pipe plug and connect your hose. I think this will work, but I have not done an 1800C as yet, and like you, discovered that the routing is slightly different from the early 1800's or from the 50 series tractors. Let me know how you come out. Larry

Hydra-Power

IP: 12.30.157.83 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 09:37:09 PM by Randy

Is the hydra-power unit from a 1850 gas tractor the same as one in a 1650 diesel?? If they are different, what modifications would have to be made to make it work? And would it fit?

Re(1): Hydra-Power

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:15:50 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydra-power drive is the same in the two tractors except for the input shaft and the bell housing. These 2 items can be switched to use the unit on different applications. Larry

1900 axles

IP: 65.238.14.114 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 07:39:48 PM by John

Hello: I just acquired a Oliver 1900 Checkerboard. It has a problem. The big nut that holds the center section of the wheel to the axle is loose on both sides. What causes this and what do you do to correct it? The tires do not have fluid in them. Also where is a good place to get manuals, and what can you do to a 4-53 detroit for pulling? Thanks John

Re(1): 1900 axles

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:13:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Over the years, those hubs get to working on the axle. I would remove the hub and install a new key. Then I would tighten the nut and it has to be tightened with a 1 inch drive socket, as tight as possible using a cheater bar. Then, periodically, check the torque and tighten if necessary. You can get manuals from the Floyd Co Museum in Charles City IA. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net. On the Detroit, you can put on a 4 valve head as a 1950 would have. You can also install larger injectors. There are other things you can do also, such as speeding up the blower or installing a turbo. Larry

Oliver 70 Hydraulics

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 05:44:34 PM by Bob Bennett

Larry What a great site you have and so much helpful information, thank you so much. I was reading your archives and came across this message: Oliver 70 Hydraulics IP: 143.115.159.54 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:26:33 PM by Larry Did Oliver make a hydraulic pump and valve system for the Oliver 70? IH and John Deere had hydraulics during the mid 40's. I find it hard to belive Oliver did not have some type of hydraulic system for their tractors.

Re(1): Oliver 70 Hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 19, 2003 at 10:34:31 PM by Larry Harsin I have a 39 70 RC with a front end hydraulic loader Model RC-504 made by Ware Machine Works, from Ware, Mass. This loader has an external Sundstrand pump mounted to the belt pulley output shaft. The reservoir and up and down lever is mounted directly to the frame of the Loader. The man I bought the tractor from had the cylinders rebuilt and it works great. Ware Machine Works is still in business. Maybe this will help

Re(1): Oliver 70 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.43 Posted on November 4, 2003 at 06:07:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Thank you for your input. I believe we had told John that the Ware Machine Works is still in existence. Larry

880 wheels

IP: 24.151.33.247 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 05:07:22 AM by Alan

I am looking for Rear Wheel Wedges or Clamps for an Industrial 880 with Dual Rear Wheels and Ware Backhoe. Need about 12 pcs. Any ideas for a source?

Re(1): 880 wheels

IP: 67.2.249.19 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 07:41:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I might have some of these. I won't have time to check on them for a few days. When I do, I will email you. Otherwise, I don't know who to suggest might have them. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

RC-504 Front end loader

IP: 64.5.20.17 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 02:04:02 AM by Bob Bennett

Larry, I have a 39 70RC with a hydraulic front end loader made by Ware Machine Works model RC-504. Did Oliver sell a hydraulic loader at that time or is this something that would have been installed later. The hydraulics are mounted where the belt pulley is and work perfect and the tractor runs very smooth. Also who built the motor for the 39 70 RC's this is a 6 cylinder engine with a Delco starter and generator. One last question on this tractor the paint is in poor shape but the wheels and wheel weights are the same color as the body would this be correct or should the wheels match the 70 stripe down the sides of the frame. Thanks for your help...

Re(1): RC-504 Front end loader

IP: 67.2.249.19 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 07:36:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Ware Machine Works built that loader for the Oliver 70. Ware Machine Works built several different machines to fit Oliver tractors. Ware Machine Works is still in business and you can still get repairs for all the items they built for Oliver tractors. Those loaders were available in 1939, but I can't say if it came on your 70 or if it was purchased later. All of the Oliver 70's had Continental engines. The wheels on the '39 70 were red to match the stripe on the sides of the frame. Larry

Carborator Float Adj.

IP: 207.144.98.37 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 11:07:31 PM by J. Mash

How do you set the float level on a TSX-811 carb? THANKS!!!

Re(1): Carborator Float Adj.

IP: 206.105.8.157 Posted on November 3, 2003 at 05:41:12 AM by Bubba

The kit contains a gauge you use to get the correct measurement. You turn the carb body upside down and very carefully bend the float arm until the correct gap from the float to the gasket surface is obtained. You must keep the floats parallel to the mating surface; I find a needle-nose pliers works well.

S-55 Hydraulic Pump Question

IP: 209.195.181.10 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 03:53:08 PM by Rich

I have the hydraulic pump out of our S-55, and I am trying to decide if the center section of the pump needs to be replaced. The inside of the center section has a high polish, but no scoring, the curious thing is the surface has small undulations that I can feel with my finger but can't see by eye. The end plates are slightly scored and I plan on laping them flat.The reason I pulled the pump was the 3 point was weak and got weaker as the oil got warm.

Re(1): S-55 Hydraulic Pump Question

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 08:36:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Get a hydraulic pump kit and it will have that whole center section. If you don't have a place, you can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

550 carborator

IP: 207.144.175.1 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 03:46:44 PM by J. Mash

How loose is too loose for a throttle cross shaft and butterfly? Can a speedysleeve be put on it? Or is this really an issue? J.Mash

Re(1): 550 carborator

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 08:33:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I would just install a new carburator throttle shaft. If there is a little play in it, it won't hurt anything. There will be a little seal for it in that carb kit that you get from Tom. That should be sufficient. Larry

oliver spreader

IP: 207.170.34.120 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 03:35:06 PM by Tim Northern ILL

How would I calculate the value of an Oliver ground driven spreader???My brother-in-law has a old one that the paint and tires are still good on, He would like to sell it...or mabe just fix it up. any suggestions??? Tim

Re(1): oliver spreader

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 08:30:00 PM by Larry Harsin

I would try to get at least $500 for it. Larry

550 carborator

IP: 206.74.182.40 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 00:56:22 AM by Johnny Mash

Will a good soaking in parts solvent and a kit, cure idle problems on A TSX-811 carb? any help appreciated. THANKS!

Re(1): 550 carborator

IP: 206.105.8.245 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 04:30:27 AM by Bubba

Maybe. Depends on what the problem is. If there is dirt trapped between a needle and seat, yes. If there is a vacuum leak, wrong float level, etc., then no. If you really want to soak it, be careful. All the soft parts must come out or the solvent will damage them. Some of the soft parts may not be included in the kit. Best bet is to buy a kit in case you tear a gasket, disassemble the carb and inspect it. But do so after your prove that there is no water in the gas and the gas is reasonably fresh. Water in the gas is by far the most common cause of a rough idle.

550 carborator rebuild

IP: 207.144.175.39 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 10:54:15 AM by J. Mash

Bubba, should I soak the jets and needle seat? THANKS!

Re(1): 550 carborator rebuild

IP: 67.2.240.163 Posted on November 2, 2003 at 08:27:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't soak the needle and seat. I would remove that and soak everything else. Larry

1850 Transmission Smoke

IP: 207.136.23.152 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 08:40:55 AM by Fred

My 1850 sat for a couple of years and I just got it running again. The PTO shift collar shattered when I engaged the clutch. Put in a new collar and got the clutch loosened up where it will engage and dis-engage but there is smoke coming from transmission. Comes out around gear shift boot and out of large PTO clutch adjustmentn plug opening. This occurs in neutral gear with PTO in or out. Since it occurs in neutral transmission, I assume it is not transmission related but I don't know. Have you ever experienced this? Thanks I appreciate your reply.

Re(1): 1850 Transmission Smoke

IP: 206.105.8.13 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 11:27:25 AM by Bubba

What color is the smoke? What is the level and color of the gear oil? Condition of filter? What is the level and color of the hydraulic fluid? Condition of filter? Could be a couple of things, need more info.

Re(2): 1850 Transmission Smoke

IP: 208.10.255.125 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 12:18:48 AM by Fred

I appreciate your quick reply. I found the problem. When I refilled the T&FD the 90W started coming out the test plug so I stopped. The capacity is 43 qts. but I hadn't put that much back in. After running the PTO for a few minutes I re-tested and added another 10 to 12 qts. This fixed it. Thanks again.

orchard 66

IP: 216.209.175.49 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 01:10:51 AM by Jason Foreman

hi again. I have a 1950's oliver orchard 66 and I was looking through my manual and it says that i shouldn't use coolant so i was wondering if coolant would hurt it any because it hasn't rained much and it hasn't snowed yet and i need to be able to start it. I was also wondering if you could tell me where i can get used orchard fenders and if so i would like to know how much they are, also I was wondering if you could get me a price quote on a muffler. thanks again Jason Foreman p.s thanks for your quick reply to my last message.

Re(1): orchard 66

IP: 206.105.8.13 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 11:32:24 AM by Bubba

Starting it isn't the problem... if it goes below freezing and you don't have a 50/50 coolant/water mix, you risk cracking the cylinder case.

Re(2): orchard 66

IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on October 31, 2003 at 06:45:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Use a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol and water. Leave that in year around. For reproduction orchard fenders, contact Jim Heaslip at 905-779-3910. For a muffler, contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Lifters

IP: 205.242.56.60 Posted on October 30, 2003 at 10:16:57 AM by Kris

Hi, is there a machine shop that can reface lifters for a 77 Gas? Thanks,

Re(1): Lifters

IP: 67.2.248.7 Posted on October 30, 2003 at 12:25:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm sure there is........You can buy reconditioned lifters from Valu-Bilt. Possibly they would trade. 888-828-3276 Larry

Cab for 1650

IP: 12.30.157.46 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 09:31:35 PM by Randy

What would a fair price be for a cab to fit a 1650. A neighbor has one that is rusty but all the glass is good in it. I havent seen it, so dont know about door hinges and that sort of stuff.Also, how hard is it to put one on?

Re(1): Cab for 1650

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 10:06:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Prices are all over the place. I sold a real good one for $400. I priced one yesterday that was a nice one - it was $700. It will take at least a day to get one mounted. You will probably have to put a new liner in it. Larry

Re(1): Cab for 1650

IP: 206.105.8.189 Posted on October 30, 2003 at 05:36:22 AM by Bubba

One recently sold up here for $150. They are a lot of work to install and remove.

2150 4WD

IP: 24.195.198.199 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 11:32:07 AM by John

I have found a 2150 4WD near me and am looking very seriously at it. i have experience with smaller olivers - 1650, 1655, 1955. is there anything funky or tricky about this one? never seen a hercules motor up close. are there certain things to look for when i go see it? thanks a lot.

Re(1): 2150 4WD

IP: 152.163.253.8 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 09:11:03 PM by Vernon Smith

I have a 2150 2wd,the biggest problems I ran into were a cracked block,but I knew about it and it was in a spot where I could get to it and fix it easily,steering cylinders were rusted and needed to be rechromed.Normal wear on the front axle pivot pin & bushing,but needed to be replaced,if you have to buy pins and bushings they are very expensive unless you can get them made at machine shop.The only thing I needed that I couldnt get was the #5 injector line.Other than that it hasnt cost a lot of money to keep it going and I have a few small things to repair before I paint it.The rear axle seals on the hub are a problem if they leak,not a lot of parts to fix it but a lot of work to do it right.The motor, at least on mine is naturally noisy.Not to the point where you would think something is wrong but it makes a lot more noise than the waukasha diesel.

Re(2): 2150 4WD

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 10:01:53 PM by Larry Harsin

If it runs and is a sound tractor, I'd go for it. These 4 WD's are getting to be quite collectable. If the Hercules engine needs to be overhauled, it is expensive, but it is a good engine. I priced an overhaul kit just last week, included sleeves & pistons, bearings and gaskets. Approx. $2000. Larry

Re(3): 2150 4WD

IP: 24.195.198.199 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 11:10:23 PM by John

thanks larry and vernon, either myself or my brother will hopefully go look at in the next couple days. i will let you know it turns out. i had heard the overhaul kits were really expensive but it pales in comparison to something else in the 130 hp range... i also hope to click a pic or two of it.

88 cast front wheels

IP: 65.241.194.83 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 07:33:05 AM by Oliver Fan

I've got an 88 with a narrow front. It has the cast front wheels, and I'm wanting to swap them out for the conventional style hubs and 5 lug wheels. I've heard the hubs off of an oliver combine will interchange. Is that correct? There are a couple of them at a local junkyard.

Re(1): 88 cast front wheels

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 09:56:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I have been told that they will work. I've never tried it. Larry

value if any

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on October 28, 2003 at 09:42:12 PM by Don-Wi

I got a few old parts back form my 1600's rebuild, mainly old pistons, sleeves, springs, and was wondering if I would be able to sell any of these through something like ebay. The sleeves I know are worn, but they can be rebored. I should mic the pistons to see how worn they are. I figure the old springs might be nice for someone who has 1 or 2 brocken and don't feel like buying all new. What do you think? Donovan from Wisconsin

Re(1): value if any

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 00:32:48 AM by Larry Harsin

The sleeves and pistons are of no value. The springs are of very little value, if any. I would doubt if you would be able to get any of them sold. Larry

55 Super hydrallics

IP: 204.101.190.139 Posted on October 28, 2003 at 06:19:05 PM by Paul Hodgson

Well I did it today. I installed two quick couplers on the loader circuit of the hydrallic system and using a brand new gauge coupled to the pressure outlet started the engine and the gauge spiked at 2200 lbs. and stayed there . The three point hitch did raise but after some time and slowly then seemed to work fine a couple times up and down then went to bottom and would not come up. Shut down checed the oil and low added a large quantity started but oil disappearing into transmission. What kind of a blow out should I be looking for when I take the hydrallic box off the unit. I'm thinking the intake gasket on the pan to the pump or maybe an "O" ring betweeen the cover and work cylinder. But why would the pressure spike so high as the relief valve sshould relieve at 1500 lbs. Also my new gauge has stuck at 2200 lbs. Thanks for the help Paul in Ontario

Re(1): 55 Super hydrallics

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on October 29, 2003 at 00:28:34 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll just have to take it apart and see what has happened. It might be a blown pump seal. You should inspect the relief valve and make sure it is not sticking. The gauge is probably ruined. It sounds like you have a relief valve malfunctioning. Larry

no volts

IP: 68.103.104.69 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 08:08:08 PM by Joe Shaffer

I went to start my 1969 550 and it would not start, so I jumped it and it started just fine. After about an hour of mowing it started popping and would not do anything under a load so I drove it back to the garage and parked it. I think that I have a bad gen. or volts reg.? Any help would be great. Thanks Joe

Re(1): no volts

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 10:31:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is have my battery tested. If it tests o.k., then have the generator and regulator checked out at a repair shop. If all the above things test out o.k. and the tractor still acts up, try a new condenser. Also, if the points are burned or pitted, replace them. Larry

Re(1): no volts

IP: 206.105.8.82 Posted on October 28, 2003 at 10:07:57 AM by Bubba

First, remove and clean all electrical connections. This causes 90% of these kinds of problems. Next, most any auto parts store like NAPA or CarQuest will test your battery and generator for free. Don't replace them unless they test bad.

Re(2): no volts

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on October 28, 2003 at 11:53:41 AM by Joe Shaffer

Thanks for the help. I will start tonight on this. Joe

550 Gas Oliver

IP: 206.74.182.211 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 06:12:50 PM by Johnny Mash

I need some help, I recently bought a gas 550. It had been siting for about 6 months the wireining harness had shorted out under the battery, on the right side. I put a new wire harness back in it. The gas tank had a little rust in it. So I washed it out good. I cleaned the strainer and sediment bowl. I dissasembled the carborater and cleaned EVERYTHING! I gave it a full tune-up plug wires included. The bumper and spring were missing on the govonor. I replaced them. I also put a new shim behind the govonor. I adjusted the govonor and carb too specs. I cannot get the tractor to idle below around 1200 RPM, after the engine gets up to operating tempature, but it idles fine when it is cold. I'm going to replace the intake gaskets next, should I have the intake surface milled? The tractor has 1500hrs on it. I tried a diffrent coil, but it didn't change anything. After it gets so warm it will not idle, you have to choke the engine to start it up. I runs fine in the upper RPM range. Do I need a resistor with my coil or a coil with internal resistor, or does it matter? The carborater is a TSX-811. Did that carb come on a 550 gas? Whats the adjustment spec for this carb? Any help would be greatly appreciated Johnny Mash

Re(1): 550 Gas Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 10:28:02 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have an air leak on the manifold gaskets. With only 1500 hrs., I doubt if the manifold would need to be resurfaced, but that is a good place to check. Gaskets should do the job here. The TSX 811 is correct for that tractor. For adjustments, I normally start with 1 1/2 turns on the load jet and 3/4 of a turn out on the idle jet. Recently, I had a carb with a non working idle circuit. I finally gave up and installed a different carb. Larry

super 55 shifting

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 11:00:25 AM by John Siske

Mr Harsin My center shifting rod is very difficult to move. I pulled the trans. cover and can see no problem. The last owner allowed rain to enter the trans because of no boot on shifter. Could this have collected at the bottom shaft and gunked it up so that the gears won't mesh? Prehaps a poppet ball is stuck? Please help

Re(1): super 55 shifting

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 10:20:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I would check the poppet balls and springs since you say water has gotten in there. I don't think the problem is in the gears. Also, I would reccommend draining the compartments and checking for broken pieces. Larry

Super 55 Trans Noise

IP: 209.195.181.10 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 07:09:26 PM by Rich

Good Afternoon Larry, We used our S-55 for a hay ride last night and I had never realized how noisy the rearend is in road gear. I plan on pulling the 3pt cover to work on the hydraulics, and I was wondering if there is something in particular I should look for in the trans or rearend? Thanks Rich

Re(1): Super 55 Trans Noise

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on October 27, 2003 at 05:33:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Just look at the condition of bearings and look for worn parts. Check the backlash on the ring gear and pinion. You will surely find something as normally they are a quiet transmission. Larry

Oliver 60

IP: 216.42.120.203 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 11:35:56 AM by Martin Miller

Does an Oliver 60 have a pto? If so is it capable of running a 6' pull behind brush hog? Does a 60 have remote hydraulics? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Oliver 60

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 01:23:03 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it has a PTO. A 6' Bush Hog would be a lot for it to handle. It might work in normal conditions, but there are some conditions where it would not handle it. The PTO is not live. The 60 does not have remote hydraulics. If you want a small tractor that would work on a job like that, a 66 would be a good choice or a S55 or a 550 would be a better choice. The S55 and 550 have 3 pt. hitch and independent PTO. The S55 and 550 also have a lower center of gravity and are closer to the ground. They don't stand up so high and you can work under tree branches better. Larry

white 2-70

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 11:31:13 AM by dale

larry, my 2-70 has a noisy rattle coming from chain coupling when idling. chain is new and oiled. is this normal or what could be the cause? thanks for any info.

Re(1): white 2-70

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 01:16:15 PM by Larry Harsin

It is not unusual. I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 206.158.165.183 Posted on October 25, 2003 at 03:08:28 PM by Phil Brown

My son-in-law has an Oliver 70 with what appears to be a factory metal cab. It is complete with the side panels to cover the engine and runs very well. Do you know if Oliver produced these tractors with the cab and if so, how many did they produce? Do you know what the approximate value would be. It is in good mechanical condition, but needs to be painted.

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.37 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 05:07:01 AM by Larry Harsin

You have a good find. Yes, a company named Raby made cabs for 70's. If you have a nice tractor that runs well, I would say your tractor with cab could be worth in the neighborhood of $2000. Restored, it could be worth $4000 - $5000. I don't know how many were made with cabs. We know of one that is restored here in our area. Larry

Power front axle assist

IP: 208.247.100.130 Posted on October 25, 2003 at 02:00:17 PM by Casimer Maliszewski

I would like to buy a power front axle assist for an Oliver 2150 or White 2-135 or 2-155 tractor. Cash paid...Location not important

Re(1): Power front axle assist

IP: 67.2.248.37 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 05:02:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one or know who does. You could check with Worthington Ag Parts, 800-533-5304. They have stores all over the nation and can check all of these. Larry

1650 manifold studs and clamps

IP: 216.120.184.2 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 11:15:54 AM by Don Thompson

Was wondering if there is anywhere I could purchase new manifold studs and clamps for my 1969 Oliver 1650G. Also was wondering what the difference or significance of the regular wide front and the set back fontend on these tractors. Mine has the set back.

Re(1): 1650 manifold studs and clamps

IP: 206.105.8.165 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 06:25:13 PM by Bubba

Studs are standard off-the-shelf hardware/auto parts store items. Clamps might be available at your AGCO dealer, if not, try a tractor boneyard. The set-back made for a shorter wheelbase and hence a reduced turning radius.

Re(2): 1650 manifold studs and clamps

IP: 67.2.249.248 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 06:57:29 PM by Larry Harsin

If you can't find the studs or clamps, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The set-back front was made for an option for the RC and the Utility. It doesn't really turn any shorter than the other front end. They are a rougher ride. It was a matter of choice. Larry

temp/fuel gauge

IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 08:52:43 AM by Glen Durbs

I need a combo temp fuel gauge for a 59 880. Where can I find parts for this tractor? Also high gear lever will not stay in? Any suggestions? Thanks, Glen

Re(1): temp/fuel gauge

IP: 67.2.249.248 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 06:51:10 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a gauge from Korves Bros. Oliver at: korves@htc.net. About the lever, you may need to remove a few shims from the over-center clutch for the power booster. I would say 3 or 4 shims from each of the 3 packs. Larry

1650 Diesel missing

IP: 12.30.157.18 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 08:04:46 PM by Randy

Larry, I changed both fuel filters and put fresh #1 fuel in it for the winter. It sure fires up much faster, maybe half the cranking time. It does still seem to smoke a little white out exhaust pipe, and when it misses it puffs out a little extra white smoke. I cracked injector lines one at a time, and they all made an equal difference in rpm, could an injector still be bad?? What is your opinion on running turpentine or laquar thinner through pump to clean it out?? I seem to think it might be the pump, but want to rule out all other things first.

Re(1): 1650 Diesel missing

IP: 67.2.248.155 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 08:12:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it could be a bad injector or possibly an energy cell. I would not reccommend running turpentine or laquor thinner through the pump. I would go ahead and run it awhile and see if it gets to acting better. If you'd put it on a load and work it for awhile, it might get better. Larry

Re(2): 1650 Diesel missing

IP: 206.105.8.236 Posted on October 24, 2003 at 06:05:01 AM by Bubba

I would check compression first.

oliver 66

IP: 64.91.148.115 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 02:24:41 PM by joe confussed

I have a 1950 oliver 66. I have been pulling it at the local tractor pulls this year. Last week I pulled as good as I have ever done, but after I unhooked and pulled away from the sled, my 66 just died. It sounded like it started to pinging and the engine just slowed until it died. I took it out of gear, and it started right up and did it again. I thought it sounded like it was so hot it was locking up. Oil was fine and so was water temp. After cooling, or sitting for a while, it ran good enough to pull on to the trailer. Any ideas? Thanks, Joe

Re(1): oliver 66

IP: 67.2.248.155 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 08:08:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you've spun a bearing. I would pull the oil pan and start checking the bearings. Larry

Re(2): oliver 66

IP: 64.91.149.68 Posted on October 28, 2003 at 08:48:48 AM by joe confussed

I will do that. Thanks, Joe

770 power booster

IP: 169.207.136.171 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 06:39:26 PM by Randy

I have a 770 that the power booster is out on the low side, I was told by several people that it probably is the sprag clutch. How difficult is it to change?

Re(1): 770 power booster

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 07:28:48 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a big job. The engine has to be removed from the tractor, then you have to remove the power booster housing from the front of the transmission and replace the sprag clutch and all the other worn parts. I do not have these parts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 770 power booster

IP: 209.173.42.64 Posted on October 25, 2003 at 09:23:12 AM by Jeff

How hard would it be if you had one of these on an 88 and the low side is out to just take it out and hook everything back up like original?

Re(3): 770 power booster

IP: 67.2.248.37 Posted on October 26, 2003 at 05:11:29 AM by Larry Harsin

It would take a different clutch shaft and a different transmission input shaft. Also, the housing for the oil seal over the transmission shaft would be required. Some people simply lock the power booster clutch in direct and remove the lever. This would work on the above mentioned 770 also. Larry

Loader for Super 55

IP: 66.129.192.49 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 01:02:32 PM by Smitty

Who makes a good loader for the Super 55? I've heard I will need to run another pump either off the p.t.o. or the crank. Is that true? Are there any original loaders available and are they any good? I may consider a new one if it has better features.

Re(1): Loader for Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 07:25:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a nice Soo loader that is for a S55. Presently, it is on a 550. It has a front pump and a separate valve. It has a hydraulic bucket. You can find a picture of it on our Tractors for Sale page of this website. If you are interested in it, email us. Larry

Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 65.41.118.180 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 06:28:41 AM by Brad & Denise Schmidt

I was wondering if on our tractor where the fuel line that comes out of the fuel filter if I can put a hose on that because the line leaks and I do not have the tools to make a new line but I can get the fitting for each end and put a hose between? I was also wondering how much hp does a 77 diesel have?

Re(1): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 06:59:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can fabricate a hose to do that. The Oliver 77 Diesel was 35 HP. Larry

fan belt and crank pulley

IP: 216.209.175.90 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 01:06:00 AM by Jason Foreman

I have a oliver orchard 66. I am having problems with my fan belt, The crank pulley wobbles (doesn't seem normal) and what is supposed to be the fan belt tensioner on the crank pulley doesn't turn so I can't tighten or loosen the belt, and I am not sure how the tensioner exactly works and how the pulley is held on. Can anyone help me , if so please e-mail me at foreman_jason@hotmail.com or rachel_anne84@hotmail.com Thanks Jay

Re(1): fan belt and crank pulley

IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 06:55:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The adjustment for the fan belt is done by the back half of the crankshaft pulley having 3 quarter inch bolts and the back part of the belt groove is adjustable by moving this portion of the pulley to adjust the belt. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It discusses this and tells you how to do this. You can get a manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City. Email her: fchs@fiai.net. If you need some parts for repair, email us. Larry

Oliver Rowcop 77

IP: 12.231.89.141 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 08:11:55 PM by Dave

Well, I have done it I am an Oliver owner. But I don't know the year. Numbers on the tag are 3506785, specification # 77-0109. Would someone know the year and where to get a mannual for it? Also it has a 6 cl. diesel. How did they get them started? This one takes starting fluid to get it started, after that it runs fine. The last owner said it needs injectors. Where would I get them? Thank you, Dave

Re(1): Oliver Rowcop 77

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 09:24:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 77 was built in 1953. You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City. Email her: fchs@fiai.net. You need 2 Group 2, heavy duty, 6 volt batteries hooked in series. When you get the Operator's Manual, it will furnish more information for you. Then remove your starter and take it to a Delco-Remy Repair shop and have them service and repair it. Then if it still doesn't start good, remove the injectors and have them checked and repaired as needed. Call Central Fuel Injection at 712-362-4200, and ask to speak to Bill. He can give you further information. They specialize in these older engines. Larry

Loader and Cab for a 1850

IP: 206.147.20.132 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 07:34:14 PM by Paul

Hi We just bought an 1850 Oliver and we are looking at putting a loader and a cab on. Do you have any recomondations as to what might fit and work best? Do you know of either that are for sale? Can you tap in the hydrydralics in to use a joystick or remote controls for the loader?

Re(1): Loader and Cab for a 1850

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 09:15:27 PM by Larry Harsin

We have a good Stan-Hoist/Bush Hog loader that will fit on your 1850. It is shown on a 1750 in our tractor pictures. Yes, you can tap in the hydraulics for an external valve for remote controls. The cab that is on the 1750 Diesel in our tractor pictures will fit your 1850. If you are interested in either of these, email us at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Re(1): Loader and Cab for a 1850

IP: 165.234.86.94 Posted on October 21, 2003 at 03:23:39 PM by Dan Folske

I bought a cab from a "55" series Oliver/White. It fits well and the rear cab mounts were correct. I had to make front mounts because there were none with the cab. I have a Leon '707' loader on it. There are photos on my website.

Super 55 Vibration

IP: 206.47.184.219 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 06:53:10 PM by Paul Hodgson

I have an engine generated vibration in my 55 does not vibrate at an idle or when under load but when comes off of governor the sheet metal of hood vibrates to point that the small bolts in hood spin. Is there supposed to be some type of damper on the exhaust pipe as it is metal to metal pipe to hood. or do I have some other balance problem inside the motor. I do have a couple of noisy tappets or excessive wear on the cam lobes but haven't had this apart as yet maybe this winter. Thanks for the info. Paul in Ontario.

Re(1): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 09:08:37 PM by Larry Harsin

That little engine does do some vibrating at certain speeds and if you have some worn engine parts, that would tend to aggravate it. You may have some loose main bearings that may aggravate it also. Larry

Re(1): Super 55 Vibration

IP: 207.144.87.226 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 10:00:39 PM by Johnny Mash

Not to worry Paul we have a 550 diesel, that has always vibrated. The vibration is coming from the shield around the muffler. Try bending the edge of it away from the hood, so that it will not touch the hood.

oliver 1950GM

IP: 206.216.207.121 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 11:48:53 AM by andy

Larry I am wanting to know if the axles and housings off of an 1850 will work in my 1950GM wheatland.( I am wanting to do away with the odd ten bolt hub.) Thanks.

Re(1): oliver 1950GM

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 09:03:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I think they will work, but you are going to have switch bull gears also, as the 1950 had a bigger axle and a bigger hole for the bull gear. Then you will have trouble with tooth angle etc. etc. I have a 1950T chassis here that is for sale. If you are interested in it, email us. Larry

oliver wagon

IP: 67.29.216.170 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 11:25:00 AM by steve

Larry I have an old oliver wagon running gear that i want to restore. My father bought new in early to mid 50's. As long as i can remember it has had red running gear with green wheels. Is this the correct color, I know the newer ones were green with white wheels. Also about what ton would this wagon be rated at? thanks Steve

Re(1): oliver wagon

IP: 67.2.249.80 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 08:58:32 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your red with green wheels is correct. I remember them. As I remember, they had a 3 ton gear, a 5 ton and a 7 ton. If you have 5 wheel bolts, I would guess it is probably a 3 ton gear. A lot of these running gears had a serial number tag and many of them were built by Electric Wheel Co. in Quincy IL. Larry

880 power booster

IP: 208.33.29.44 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 01:00:39 AM by mike castle

LARRY, MY 880 HAS A FAULTY POWER BOOSTER THAT DOS'NT WORK.WHO COULD I GET TO WORK ON IT? ABOUT HOW MUCH IS THIS TRACTOR WORTH.1959 DIESEL WITH 6YRS ON RESTORATION.

Re(1): 880 power booster

IP: 67.2.240.166 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 06:54:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Where are you located? Worth depends upon how it is equipped such as WF, PS, 3 pt., etc. If it has these, I would guess it is probably worth in the neighborhood of $2000. Tires would be a consideration. Larry

1965 Oliver 1650 Diesel

IP: 12.30.157.55 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 11:16:49 PM by Randy

I just purchased a 1650 3 months ago, have been getting it going. It sat for 7-8 years. It starts very hard, even when it is 50-60 degrees out. Then runs rough for the first 5-10 minutes, worse at slow speeds than at higher R.P.M. Does this sound like injector problems? or possibly engine worn? Have ran it 10-12 hours,, dont burn any oil, so leads me to think it might be in the injectors. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks P.S. I seem to have moisture in the tank cap whenever I open it. I have treated in with HEET,, think a very small amount of water in fuel might make it do this?

Re(1): 1965 Oliver 1650 Diesel

IP: 206.105.8.11 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 07:54:01 AM by Bubba

Any water in diesel fuel will cause rough running, damage the injection pump, and damage the injectors. I'd drain the tank, replace the filter, and flush the fuel line up to the injection pump. There should be a water separator on it, if not install one. I'd also do a compression test to determine the condition of the engine.

Re(2): 1965 Oliver 1650 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 09:59:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with Bubba. There's a real good chance that you have a tired engine. You could start checking the easy things first, like taking the injector to a diesel shop and checked and reconditioned. Do a compression test while you have the injectors out. Then go on from there. There is a very good chance that the engine will need major work to get it back in good condition. Larry

Re(1): 1965 Oliver 1650 Diesel

IP: 64.12.96.45 Posted on October 25, 2003 at 09:15:33 AM by Chas in Tn.

If you don't clear this problem up, I would assume it is the injector pump. A tractor sitting for 7-8 years will have problems. I experenced this problem on my dads 1655 that sit for a long time, even in the shed. Moisture will finally get to fuel and hydraulic systems.

550 Hydraulic

IP: 208.63.187.56 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 07:30:35 PM by Ernest Boyda Jr

I've got a 1965 Oliver 550. I was pulling a bushog and my hydralics died. They won't lift any weight, but without the weight will come up very slowly. I've looked in the fill tube with the tractor running and while excersizing the lift control and don't see any movement of the fluid. I put a pressure gauge on the drain port and didn't get a reading. Maybe you know what the problem may be.

Re(1): 550Hydraulic

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 09:54:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that the hydraulic pump went bad. However, when you take the unit apart, first check the servo-valve for the 3 pt. Make sure that none of the plungers (or regulating spools) are sticking. Larry

1950T FWA

IP: 206.9.220.234 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 07:04:26 PM by Ryan Bateman

I have a 1950T FWA but the front drive axles are bad. Is there a "good" way to replace them. I am trying to sell the tractor and was wondering if it was worth while to fix them or sell it as is. It has been a good tractor but we no longer need it. Would you have an idea what the tractor is worth with the FWA working compared to without it?

1950T FWA

IP: 206.9.220.234 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 07:04:26 PM by Ryan Bateman

I have a 1950T FWA but the front drive axles are bad. Is there a "good" way to replace them. I am trying to sell the tractor and was wondering if it was worth while to fix them or sell it as is. It has been a good tractor but we no longer need it. Would you have an idea what the tractor is worth with the FWA working compared to without it?

Re(1): 1950T FWA

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 09:51:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a good handle on what that tractor is worth. But I do know that the parts for the FWA system are very high priced. So I would try to sell it "as is". I don't know how to replace the front drive axles without buying new parts from AGCO and that will cost an arm and a leg. Larry

Starter solenoid - 1650

IP: 148.78.243.121 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 04:43:04 PM by Cwolfe

I tracked down my electrical problem on my 1650 and it appears to be the starter solenoid. I called Napa and they don't think they have one. I can't tell whether my starter is a Delco-Remi or a Prestolite. The only identifing number on the starter is ... 4156 F18. Any help in getting a solenoid? I would hope to buy it local so I can get back to work sooner but if I have to order it, where can I find one? Thanks Cwolfe

Re(1): Starter solenoid - 1650

IP: 206.105.8.131 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 05:22:57 PM by Bubba

Mine has a A/C Delco 10MT starter. That's the model number. The solenoid comes with it, at least from NAPA. About $125 if I remember. If you want just a solenoid, try Carquest. Any '60's GM solenoid will work. Just take the old one along to match it up. Mark the terminals used on yours, not all of them are.

Re(2): Starter solenoid - 1650

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 09:47:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Most of them are Delco-Remy, but that doesn't look like a Delco-Remy number. The starter that is on there could be a rebuilt and that could be the rebuilt number. Is your 1650 a diesel or a gas? What is the serial number of your tractor? That might tell us what starter was used. If you would take that solenoid to your AGCO Dealer, he might be able to match it right away. Larry

Three point hitch for Super 44

IP: 206.137.39.88 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 10:14:59 AM by JASON SPENCE

I own a Super 44 that my grandfather bought new. He used the tractor to row crop and plant, so it's set up with cultivators but he bought a three point hitch set up that was never used. Well I've never seen it installed. My grandfather died several years ago and I'm wanting to install the three point hitch but nobody knows how. I'm looking for information, a picture if possible, that covers this area. I'm sure I have all the parts.

Re(1): Three point hitch for Super 44

IP: 67.2.249.151 Posted on October 19, 2003 at 09:41:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Mary Ann Townsend at the Charles City Museum and get a Parts Manual for your S44. It will show how it all goes together. Larry

Re(2): Three point hitch for Super 44

IP: 206.137.39.124 Posted on October 22, 2003 at 07:53:38 PM by Jason Spence

Do you have an address for Mary Ann Townsend or the Charles City Museum?

Re(3): Three point hitch for Super 44

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 23, 2003 at 07:33:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Mary Ann's email is: fchs@fiai.net The Museum address is: Floyd Co. Historical Society, 500 Gilber St, Charles City IA 50616. Larry

HG 42

IP: 64.141.16.181 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 10:35:10 AM by Harry Chapin

Hi...I am rebuilding a crawler model HG 42..serial # 7GA 432..what is it ??? Is it an Oliver OC3 ???

Re(1): HG 42

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 12:23:42 AM by R. Marg

a good web site for you to check at is Cletrac.org sounds like you have some of the same question I've had in the last few days

Re(1): HG 42

IP: 67.2.248.53 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 07:58:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Your Cletrac is an HG built in 1941. The 42 that follows HG is the width of the tracks. They call it the gauge. It is not an OC3. Larry

1550

IP: 12.154.3.12 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 10:23:51 PM by Steve

Saw a 1550 Oliver for sale in a newspaper and not sure of the size and hp. Didn't say whether gas or diesel.Any info?

Re(1): 1550

IP: 67.2.249.87 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 07:55:56 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1550 is a 53 HP tractor. It's a 3 bottom plow size tractor. 1550's were built in the late 60's. They are very similar to a 1650 only slightly smaller. The engine is 6 cylinder, 3 5/8" bore x 3 3/4" stroke. Larry

Oliver Horse Drawn Equip.

IP: 167.142.29.57 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 09:51:52 PM by Russ

I have several Oliver horse related pieces where do I go to advertise them?

Re(1): Oliver Horse Drawn Equip.

IP: 67.2.249.87 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 07:53:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The best places to advertise them would be the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine, Antique Power magazine or Farm Collector magazine. The HPOCA Magazine comes with their membership and is read by 6000 members. To place an ad, email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Antique Power Magazine email: antique@antiquepower.com Farm Collector email: classifieds@farmcollector.com Larry

super 88 clutch

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 06:30:43 PM by Mike

Larry, I am going to put new clutch in my super 88, can you give any tips on this and should I put an 11 inch unit , or is that what it has, also, my driveshaft leaks grease around the seal behind the coupler, do you have any of these parts?

Re(1): super 88 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 08:35:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The S88 does have an 11 inch clutch. The seal and the felt you need is part number K620 and K620A. You will also need the "O" ring that goes between the input shaft and the surface that spins in the seal. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 for these parts. Larry

1850 gas flooding

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 07:34:18 PM by Steve

Hi Larry, I've been having trouble with my 1850 flooding after it sets for a few days. The gas doesn't leak out the carb./air cleaner hose, it leaks out the exhaust manifold when I try to start it. It doesn't leak when just setting, just when I try to start it. I rebiult the carb. about a year ago. This just started happening in the last month. I've checked the needle and seat, that looks fine. It idles fine and runs smooth at higher RPM's after it cleans out. This doesn't happen if I use it everyday.Any suggestions? thanks.

Re(1): 1850 gas flooding

IP: 206.105.8.9 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 04:33:27 PM by Bubba

Exhaust manifold? Exactly where? Between the ports and head at each port? Or?

Re(2): 1850 gas flooding

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 08:32:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I would probably recheck the float setting. If it is correct, I would replace the needle and seat. Then if it continued to leak, I would just shut the gas off when I wasn't using it. Sometimes you just can't get those things fixed. Larry

Re(2): 1850 gas flooding

IP: 64.12.96.45 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 09:58:33 PM by Steve

It leaks out the gasket at the cylinder head on #4 and #6 cyls.

Re(3): 1850 gas flooding

IP: 206.105.8.203 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 06:58:21 AM by Bubba

Larry is right, it's flooding. It may be some dirt trapped between the float needle and seat. Easy enough to take the carb apart and clean. If that's not it, do what Larry said. It's also a good idea to install a good inline fuel filter.

OH NO! Electrical Problem - 1650

IP: 148.78.243.121 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 05:54:41 PM by Cwolfe

Just got done brushhoging and turned off 1650. Immediately tried to start it afterward, (to lower bucket) and it would not start. It also did some weird stuff like have the starter motor continue to weakly run despite having the key off or the tranny in gear! Zero voltage at the battery and it would not jump. Could this be as simple as just a dead battery? Why would the battery be dead after running for 3 hours? Is this likely to be the charging sytem? Thanks Cwolfe

Re(1): OH NO! Electrical Problem - 1650

IP: 206.105.8.9 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 04:30:48 PM by Bubba

Sounds more like a short in the main wiring harness. You'll need the manual for a wiring diagram, a DMM, and some basic knowledge of tractor electrical systems to find and fix it. When the same thing happened on my 1650, I took the opportunity to rewire the entire tractor. Glad I did as the OEM harness was in mighty tough shape.

Re(2): OH NO! Electrical Problem - 1650

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 08:28:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I have had batteries fail just like that. Otherwise, something may have happened in your wiring harness or the alternator may have quit and caused it to let the battery gradually run down. You'll just have to check it out and see. Larry

1650 axle housing

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 01:14:02 PM by Alan Bredbury

Larry, I recieved the axle housing that you sent. I am out of town for the next couple of weeks but sometime soon I will tackle the installation. The part looks great, thanks for finding it for me. Don't know what us Oliver people would do without you.

Re(1): 1650 axle housing

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 08:25:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear it got there. Larry

plow for 1650 - wanted

IP: 148.78.243.123 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 11:36:22 AM by cwolfe

I need a plow for my 1650. I would like to find a nice 3 bottom 16 semi mount. Any good plow would do but due to my Oliver addiction, I would like to find an Oliver plow if possible. What model number Oliver plow fits the above description? Where would be a good place to find an Oliver plow? What should I expect to pay? Thank you Cwolfe

Re(1): plow for 1650 - wanted

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on October 16, 2003 at 08:23:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net Model 565 is a good plow for a 1650. I'm not sure of price range. You could also check with Doug Johnson 319-347-6332. Also, call O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Ask for Jay. Larry

Re(1): plow for 1650 - wanted

IP: 64.12.96.45 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 07:29:20 AM by Chas in Tn.

I have a White 3-bottom, semi-mount, spring loaded-automatic reset, jointers, and spring loaded coulters. These plows haven't been used much.

Re(2): plow for 1650 - wanted

IP: 148.78.243.123 Posted on October 20, 2003 at 12:03:08 AM by Cwolfe

Is it for sale? I would be interested. How much and where in TN are you located? sundog@starband.net

super 55 utility $$

IP: 207.170.34.172 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 08:36:55 PM by Tim Greenfield

I have a chance to buy a super 55 with an oliver loader. the tractor runs. It looks rough, but not all dented up or anything ...just well used...Its a gasser, tires are 20% loader looks straight..how many hp would this be, and where would a fair price range be? I will appreciate any help you can give me

Re(1): super 55 utility $$

IP: 67.2.249.155 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 10:16:22 PM by Larry Harsin

That tractor has around 37 HP. If it is complete (all the tin etc) and running, I would value that tractor at $3000 - $4000. Larry

hydra-boost fluid

IP: 205.200.57.215 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 03:21:57 PM by Greg N

Hi Larry: I wanted to check the archives for this but they are out of order right now. What is Type A atf and is there a substitute? Thanks

Re(1): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 206.105.8.86 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 04:20:50 PM by Bubba

It's now called "Dexron". Any ATF that says Dexron or Dexron/Mercon is correct.

Re(2): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 204.184.28.220 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 10:09:07 PM by Bobby

We have used Hy-Tran for a long time in the Hydra Power on our 1550. It is available at Case IH dealers and you can buy it in larger quantities than quarts.

Re(3): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 67.2.249.155 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 10:13:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with these 2 guys. Larry

Re(4): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 152.163.253.8 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 09:42:12 AM by Frank Hudson

Which is better? Hy-tran or Dexron?

Re(5): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 205.200.35.44 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 06:17:30 PM by Greg N

Thanks guys. Frank, the advantage of hy-tran would be that you can also use it in the hydraulics and I would think the tranny/rear end. Plus you can get it in 5 gallon pails. It probably meets Dexron spec. but you should check with a Case/IH dealer.

Re(6): hydra-boost fluid

IP: 206.105.8.30 Posted on October 18, 2003 at 06:23:15 AM by Bubba

Hy-tran is made for hydraulic systems and SOME final drives. Olivers usually require 75W-90 gear lube, check the manual. Dexron can also be purchased in bulk.

perkins for waukesha

IP: 205.242.73.66 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 02:46:37 AM by Tony Reid

I have a 1800 oliver with a bad engine.I also have a 354 perkins that came out of an 1850 oliver that is a good engine.What chance of replacing the bad engine with the perkins. Thanks Tony

Re(1): perkins for waukesha

IP: 67.2.248.159 Posted on October 14, 2003 at 07:07:16 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to find an 1850 front frame and put it on your 1800 so that you can install the Perkins. You may have a problem with the radiator and have to have one from an 1850 diesel also. Larry

Re(1): perkins for waukesha

IP: 172.129.169.228 Posted on October 17, 2003 at 11:23:49 AM by doulas wenig

this will work good if you have a "c" series 1800 and use the front frame radiator bellhousing and top hood for the 1850 this has been done many times especially on 1855 and 1955 tractors and will work with earlier 1800s as well just takes a little more work cause of the sheet metal differenes on the "a" and "b" series

High out on 1850 Hydra power

IP: 206.147.20.83 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 07:14:13 PM by Paul

My dad just bought a 1850 gas but the hydra power doesnt work in High. I am wondering is there any adjustment to these? Is it expensive to fix these? How hard and what would I be looking at to try to rebuild it? Any special tools needed?

Re(1): High out on 1850 Hydra power

IP: 67.2.248.38 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 10:50:09 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get a Shop Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend email: fchs@fiai.net. You may have low pressure to the direct drive clutch. Or, you may have too much leakage in the direct drive clutch. It can be expensive to repair if you have worn out parts. After you test the pressures and make your determination of the problem, you will probably have to remove the engine and unit from the tractor to repair it. You will need some special tools. It tells you these in the Shop Manual. Larry

1650 industrial

IP: 24.213.248.154 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 08:52:57 AM by Joe Bomba

My 1650 will run for 5 seconds an quit new filters and fuel pump no help seem to have fuel to injector pump how can I test pump and any ideas where to find one

Re(1): 1650 industrial

IP: 206.105.8.202 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 09:40:06 AM by Bubba

The service manual has a write-up on how to find and repair the problem. You already spent more on the filters and pump than the manuals cost.

Re(2): 1650 industrial

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 10:05:39 AM by R Marg

you can crack the lines loose at the injectors and turn it over you should get a spray of fuel out of them if you don't the injector pump will need service I had the same problem with an AC 190 and had to have the injector pump rebuilt

Re(3): 1650 industrial

IP: 67.2.248.38 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 10:44:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Central Fuel Injection at 712-362-4200 and talk to Bill. Before you call them, unscrew the fuel strainer and remove it from the tank. Make sure there is not a blockage in the neck. Larry

Re(4): 1650 industrial

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 01:10:57 PM by Alan Bredbury

I know a bit about diesels. If it starts for 5 seconds the pump is producing enough pressure to pop the injectors open at ~1800 psi. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem before the pump as Larry suggests. Make sure your fuel shutoff valve is not partially shut off.

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