Oil in radiator

IP: 216.135.19.110 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 08:48:52 PM by Andy

I've got a 1966 Oliver 1650 Diesel that is getting some engine oil into the radiator. Any insights/fixes for this problem.

Re(1): Oil in radiator

IP: 67.2.249.138 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 09:29:46 PM by Larry Harsin

You may be working with a cracked cylider head. Otherwise, it could be bad "O" rings on the bottoms of the sleeves. You'll either have to replace the head or put new "O" rings on the sleeves. Larry

Another manual question

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 07:37:48 AM by Carl

Larry, In your opinion, which is better-the Jen Sales service manuals or the I&T service manuals? I have always had the I&T manuals, so I'm not sure if the Jen Sales manuals would be any better. I hate to spend money and then not get anything better, but sometimes I'm disappointed with the I&T manuals as it seems they do not go into enough detail in some areas.

Re(1): Another manual question

IP: 67.2.249.138 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 09:26:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I really can't say about Jen Sales Manuals as I havn't had any of them lately. I like to get Oliver manuals from the Museum in Charles City. Selling manuals helps to keep the Museum open. Larry

Oliver Row Crop 66

IP: 66.15.69.13 Posted on November 22, 2005 at 03:34:18 PM by Sam

We need specs and engine parts.

Re(1): Oliver Row Crop 66

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 06:07:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Some of the specs are in the Operator's Manual all of them are in the Shop Manual. If you don't have these manuals, you can get them from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. For parts, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

S77 Generator to Alternator

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on November 22, 2005 at 01:38:28 PM by Chuck

I want to switch my 1955 S77 Diesel from the original generator to an alternator. Where can a bracket be bought? Or will a bracket off of a newer tractor fit? Or would I need to make one?

Re(1): S77 Generator to Alternator

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 06:02:30 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a universal bracket from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. Larry

Rebuild Super 55 engine

IP: 205.208.227.27 Posted on November 22, 2005 at 08:10:21 AM by Ralf Cunningham

I am currently rebuilding a Super 55 engine. I have the new cylinder liners and pistons. I have already removed the old ones and the block seems to be in very good shape. The question I have is about the O-rings on the bottom of the inserts. Is there any type on sealant needed on these .Any other tricks I need to know about. Thanks in advance

Re(1): Rebuild Super 55 engine

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 05:59:10 AM by Larry Harsin

There should be instructions in the package with your sleeves. First get the sleeves to fit into the block without the "O" rings. Then install the "O" rings on the sleeves making sure that they are not twisted. Then coat the "O" rings and the sleeve surface with liquid soap. Also, coat the sealing surfaces in the block with liquid soap. Then you should be able to press these assemblies in by hand. However, you may need to use a block of wood and a hammer to tap them in. Larry

Which manual is better for 1550 gas (1965)

IP: 65.54.98.109 Posted on November 21, 2005 at 08:34:35 PM by Tom Hall

My father-in-law just purchased a 1965 Oliver 1550 (gas engine). He does not have any repair or service manuals. Are the original Oliver service manuals or the aftermarket/restoration manuals more useful for everyday use ? The tractor will be used as a working farm tractor. Any repair or service manual suggestions for the Christmas gifts will be appreciated. I have already ordered a set of replacement decals. Thanks, Tom Hall

Re(1): Which manual is better for 1550 gas (1965)

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 05:47:22 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get an Operator's Manual for a 1550 gas from the Museum in Charles City. There are 2 different Shop Manuals for this tractor. Ask the people at the Museum about the differences in the manuals and help you decide which one you want. 641-228-1099. Larry

1855 Hyd Hose WEIRD seal HELP!!!!

IP: 65.143.144.240 Posted on November 21, 2005 at 06:35:56 PM by Bruce

1971 Oliver 1855

I had to replace the big hose from the pump down to the pressure valve body below. That is done! However, one of the lines I had to disconnect from the valve body during that time needs a new seal. The line comes out of the side of the valve body and goes up to the "t" which feeds under the seat. When I took the line off of the valve body I took the seal and put it in my garage to keep safe.... well, it dried out, swelled up a little and ACTUALLY tore itself. I tried to reuse it but it won"t go in the bore of the valve body far enough. You can see two views of the seal in the picture. The smaller diameter end of the seal feeds onto the 5/8"ths inch metal tube and butts up against the steel backring you see 3/4 of an inch up the tube. Then, partially visible on the right side of the picture, is the male nut which surrounds the tube. You can barely make out the threads as they appear white. This nut (with threads on the outside), slides down to the steel backring and actually over the smaller diameter of the seal, and then threads into the side of the valve body. If you have followed this far, I thank you. I have been to TWO hydraulic fitting places (Tompkins Industries in Kansas City was one), A Tractor Dealer, a company that makes o-rings, and an aerospace company that makes seals. I have called my nearest white/agco dealer, and he thinks I might have an o-ring that was mashed into this appearance. I can tell enough that this looks like the shape is was made in. I"m trying to avoid the 100 mile trip to the dealer, especially when it doesn"t sound like he has it, or knows what it is. Now, where in the heck can I get one so I don"t have to spend $100 making a custom hose with a different end because I can"t buy some .50 cent seal that dried out? The Tompkins Fittings guy called it a tube seal with a steel backring. He had seen them before, couldn"t remember where, or how to get them.

Re(1): 1855 Hyd Hose WEIRD seal HELP!!!!

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 05:42:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and he will send one to you. The only way to fix them is to get a new one. 800-320-6224. It will be more than 50 cents,however, as it is a special seal. Larry

1655 Pto

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on November 20, 2005 at 07:00:20 AM by Billybob Ia.

Our pto seeps oil at the bottom of the shaft by the snap ring. We installed a new seal on the shaft back inside, still a small leak, I have the rubber O ring to install. The bearing is tight, does the bearing help seal around the shaft or is the problem the seal we just replaced. Thank you for your help. Billybob Ia.

Re(1): 1655 Pto

IP: 67.2.249.46 Posted on November 20, 2005 at 09:20:50 PM by Larry Harsin

About the best that you can do is install that "O" ring. This is a common thing with 1650's, to have that little leak. You may not get it completely eliminated. It is nearly impossible to keep that from leaking. Larry

Super 88

IP: 136.2.1.153 Posted on November 18, 2005 at 05:57:57 AM by Jim McAfee

Larry, What is the difference between an 88 and a Super 88?

Re(1): Super 88

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on November 18, 2005 at 09:05:56 PM by Larry Harsin

The S88 was the model that came after the Fleetline 88. The Fleetlines were built up to the fall of 1954, then they began making the S88. The S88 had a larger engine (with 10 hp more) and other various improvements. Larry

Re(2): Super 88

IP: 136.2.1.153 Posted on November 21, 2005 at 08:22:59 AM by Jim McAfee

Larry, What would be the serial numbers to look for Super 88s? What is the difference between the Super 77 and the Super 88? What other Oliver, Industrial, or White engines would bolt into a Super 88 that would be best for pulling? Jim

Re(3): Super 88

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on November 23, 2005 at 05:34:41 AM by Larry Harsin

The S88's began with serial number 6503 in 1954 they ended with 56580 in 1958. The difference between the S77 and the S88 is that the S77 is approx 1000 lbs lighter and 10 less HP. It has a smaller engine. You could bolt a 310 Waukesha like in a 1955 or a 283 like a 1655 diesel has or a 1650 gas engine, into your S88. Larry

2-70 power steering

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on November 17, 2005 at 02:37:05 PM by Carl

Hi Larry, We have a problem with the power steering on our 2-70. Lately it will not work if its been sitting around for awhile especially in the cold. It was working fine about three weeks ago we parked it in the yard. We were going to hook up the loader to it. But have been so busy on the farm didn't get to it until yesterday. I started it up and had no power steering at all. I ran it for a good 15 minutes, still no steering. It has done this a few times earlier in the year also, although it came back after warming it up for a few minutes. It got to 2 or 3 degrees above last night. Do you have any ideas on this one?

Re(1): 2-70 power steering

IP: 67.2.248.99 Posted on November 17, 2005 at 08:14:37 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a regulator spool in the flow divider is sticky. Let the tractor run for awhile again, then speed the engine up to about half throttle and wiggle the remote levers back and forth several times. If this doesn't help, I would remove the regulator spool from the flow divider and see if it is sticky. Like maybe there is a burr or binding. Larry

770

IP: 68.72.13.106 Posted on November 16, 2005 at 10:06:14 AM by bryan j

how many horse does this tractor produce?

Re(1): 770

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on November 16, 2005 at 08:49:35 PM by Larry Harsin

A S77 has 43 hp and a 770 has 50 hp. Larry

Flat front tires

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on November 15, 2005 at 02:15:18 PM by Joe

Hi, I'v replaced the front tubes too many times these past few years. Has anyone had any luck having the front tires filled with urethane foam? My 1650 has a loader.

Re(1): Flat front tires

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on November 16, 2005 at 08:47:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I just saw an article in Farm Show Magazine about fixing a flat tire with "Tire Balls". Contact The Tire Ball Development Co. 877-847-3225 Email cboone@tireballs.com Website: www.tireballs.com Supposed to be "a brand new way to flat-proof tires". I don't know anything about using urethane foam. Larry

Re(2): Flat front tires

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 22, 2005 at 02:07:32 PM by J.Ulmer

Tire repair companies that do heavy industrial work (scrapers, graders, and loaders ) should have a contact who fills tires for contractors skid steer loaders, ect. which work around nails and other junk. A lot of farmers around ranch land with mesquite will have tires filled with solid high density foam to stop flats from mesquite thorns. The tire will be heavier and not have much give, but will not go down from slow puncture leaks. Try a Bandag recapper for contacts.

Super 55 Transmission Oil

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on November 14, 2005 at 08:01:05 PM by Larry

I have 85-90 weight oil in my transmission and have noticed that I am getting large amounts of oil foam. I just drained it after running it for about 1/2 mile. The oil seemed milky, but after settling there was no sign of water and the foam disapeared. IS FOAMING NORMAL? SHOULD AN ANTI FOAMING ADDATIVE BE USED?

Re(1): Super 55 Transmission Oil

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on November 16, 2005 at 08:34:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think I'd worry about it. If it gives problems, you may want to consider an additive or talk to your oil supplier about a different oil. Larry

boatmotors

IP: 4.254.95.84 Posted on November 14, 2005 at 02:14:49 PM by ernest w butler

hi im wondering if anyone would know a little about the oliver boat motor.i have a 6hp made in dearborn mi. the motor runs and is in very good condition. any info would be greatly appreciated thank you.

Re(1): boatmotors

IP: 67.2.249.142 Posted on November 16, 2005 at 08:31:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Sherry Schaefer at email: Sherry@oliverinformation.com She has all of that information. Oliver bought out Chris Craft in the late 70's and that is where the Oliver motors came into the picture. I think they made them only about 5 yrs. or so. Larry

1953 Row Crop 77 Wiring Harness

IP: 65.90.87.66 Posted on November 14, 2005 at 08:54:39 AM by Bob Gronas

My father and I recently purchased my Grandfathers Row Crop. It is in excellent original condition. While we debate if we are going to do a full resto or not, we have found that the wiring harness is starting to cause us problems. Being new to this, we have no idea where to look. Any suggestions? We would like to keep it as original as possible.

Re(1): 1953 Row Crop 77 Wiring Harness

IP: 170.215.45.244 Posted on November 14, 2005 at 03:25:11 PM by Mike

Call Mark at Korves Oliver 1-618-939-6681 or www.korvesoliver.com

super 55 pto collar

IP: 4.156.99.12 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 04:47:36 PM by mike soucy

I need to replace the pto release collar on my Super 55 ID# 15005 Ser#30084-518 does anyone know the part#. It is brass in 2 pcs it looks the bottom part of a piston rod with 2 ears. Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): super 55 pto collar

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 09:50:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Call your AGCO Dealer, he will have the part. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Rust Removal on cyclinder

IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 12:05:35 PM by Jim

I just purchased a good, operating Oliver Hydra-electric cyclinder. I has some rust on the shiny part of the cyclinder. Any info and advice on removing the rust and getting the shine back would be much appreciated. Thanks. Jim.

Re(1): Rust Removal on cyclinder

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 04:45:21 PM by J.Ulmer

The "shine" is a chrome plating which has obviously rusted through. You may or may not have deeper rusting and pitting as well. On used older equipment if the pits are not too deep I have had good luck smoothing the shaft with "oo" or "oooo" steel wool to remove the surface oxidation. If you have sharp pitting, you may have to use a fine emory cloth to smoothe out the cylinder rod. The point is to smoothe the rod to minimize abrasive cuting of your seals and wipers as the shaft extends and retracts. Keeping the rod lubed with use and retracted if possible will help extend the service life of rod and seals.

Re(2): Rust Removal on cyclinder

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 09:48:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use some fine emery cloth and smooth it up. Larry

1650 gas gauge

IP: 12.106.111.10 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 04:47:34 AM by Mark

Larry, I have a 1650 with a gas gauge that doesn't work. Is there a easy way to figure out if it's the sender or gauge? Does one fail more commonly than the other. Thanks for any help you can give me!

Re(1): 1650 gas gauge

IP: 67.2.248.204 Posted on November 11, 2005 at 05:14:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Usually the sender goes bad on those. Just use a jumper wire to ground the terminal where the wire goes to the tank. When you ground it, the gauge should read "full". This would indicate that the sender is not working. Then you will have to remove the hood to get to the sender. One thing that could be wrong with the sender would be a float full of fuel that is laying on the bottom of the tank. I have drained the fuel out of those floats and resoddered them. If the float is not the problem, you will have to get a new sender. Larry

550 Axle

IP: 130.36.62.127 Posted on November 10, 2005 at 11:50:40 AM by John Muir

I recently replaced the front axle spindle bushings and bearings on my 550. I noticed that the front axle main member is sloppy at the pivot pin. Which part commonly wears the pivot pin or the main member hole? And how hard is it to get the pivot pin out? The manual says something about a "puller".

Re(1): 550 Axle

IP: 67.2.249.99 Posted on November 10, 2005 at 06:58:14 PM by Larry Harsin

This wear is typical. I don't have a "puller" either. You may have to fabricate one. I am thinking you will probably have to take the worn parts to a machine shop and have the pin either built up or a new one made. The hole in the axle member, if it is worn, will have to built up or rebushed or whatever is appropriate. Larry

Re(2): 550 Axle

IP: 69.77.130.22 Posted on November 13, 2005 at 09:47:46 PM by J. Mash

I JUST WENT THROUGH ALL THIS WITH MY 550. THOSE PINS ARE STILL AVALIABLE. I HAD MINE MADE AT A MACHINE SHOP. YOU HAVE TO HAVE YOURS BUSHED TO FIX THE PROBLEM. ALSO THE PIN GOES THROUGH THE AXEL AT A ANGLE NOT STRAIGHT LIKE MOST TRACTORS. THE 550 WAS DESIGNED THS WAY. BE SURE YOUR PIN IS HARDER STEEL THAN WHATEVER YOU BUSH THE AXEL WITH. OTHERWISE IT WILL GAUL AND STICK ( NO MATTER HOW MUCH YOU GREASE IT ) AND BREAK THE SET PIN THAT HOLDS THE AXEL IN PLACE. A BRASS BUSHING WILL PROBABLY WORK THE BEST.

charging batteries

IP: 24.247.247.249 Posted on November 6, 2005 at 03:50:39 PM by Tom Harmon

I recently picked up an Oliver 1655 diesel. It has 2, 6 volt batteries hooked in series. What is the best way to charge the batteries.

Re(1): charging batteries

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on November 8, 2005 at 05:19:51 AM by J Ulmer

Hook your 12 volt battery charger to the pair in tandem as one 12 volt battery. You will put the ground on the negative of battery "A" and the positive on the + of battery "B"

Re(2): charging batteries

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on November 8, 2005 at 12:54:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would do it the same way as Jerry said. If you can't do it this way, charge the 6's individually. Larry

550 Oliver disel injection pump

IP: 216.78.51.78 Posted on November 6, 2005 at 08:06:41 AM by Dave

Purchased an Oliver 550 that was running great. Unfortunately, it sat far 6-8 months before I picked it up with old fuel in it and it would not start. I drained the diesel fuel out of the tank and lines, replaced the filters, added an electric fuel pump (6-8 lbs of preesuure), confirmed fuel at the Rosamaster injection pump and checked for fuel at the injectors. The inectors were not geting fuel. I put disel fuel cleaner in the hose going to the injector pump and it is soaking. Any way to get the pump working again without removing it from the tractor and overhauling it? If I need to remove it from the tractor, I can not find the identifying marks that the ITT manuel states that should be present on the borsch pumps/rosamaster pumps? nHow do I re-align it. Thanks

Re(1): 550 Oliver disel injection pump

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on November 8, 2005 at 12:51:43 PM by Larry Harsin

The stuff that you put in the fuel might help it start working. I think probably the metering valve inside the pump housing is stuck. If you can't get it going, call Central Fuel Injection and talk to Bill. 712-362-4200. I would talk to Bill before I started removing it from the tractor etc. If that tractor is running o.k., all you have to do is take the little timing window (cover) off of the pump and line the marks up before you remove it from the engine. If the engine isn't moved, you should be able to put it back on and it will be right. I think that the flywheel probably had a timing tape on it and it is gone. You can get a new timing tape from AGCO. Larry

Oliver 66 Specs

IP: 63.161.220.84 Posted on November 5, 2005 at 07:53:10 PM by Scott Mills

What is the Intake and Exhaust valves clearance. Where can I find tune up specs?

Re(1): Oliver 66 Specs

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on November 8, 2005 at 12:43:05 PM by Larry Harsin

10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust with engine at room temp. The tune up specs are in your Operator's Manual. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Fuel Cap & 1655 Hydraulics

IP: 66.163.147.35 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 08:16:28 PM by Karl

Larry, I finally did it, I forgot to put the fuel cap on the fuel tank. It fell off and I lost it. I went to the local Case IH dealership and got a replacement....Question -- Does the Fuel cap need to be vented on a 1655 diesel? How do I tell if the one I have (I think it is for an IHC M) is vented or not? Thanks for hosting this site. I have asked alot of questions and you have been great help. One more question -- I have a grain wagon with a one way cylinder hoist. Will the 1655 hydralics let the wagon go down if I raise it? I haven't tried it yet. I remember dad having sometype of issue here but I don't remember it exactly. My oliver won't lower the loader when the engine is turned off. So I am wondering if something need to be adjusted for me to use the wagon...

Re(1): Fuel Cap & 1655 Hydralics

IP: 67.2.249.141 Posted on November 4, 2005 at 04:56:09 AM by Larry Harsin

All of the caps for the older tractors were vented. You should be able to see the vent. You could ask the parts person, but all of the unvented caps that I have used, say "unvented". For your 1655...there is a 1/2" bolt with a 3/4" head by your right foot, that has to be backed out 3 or 4 turns. Also, the right hand remote valve should be used for one way operation. There is a bleed screw under the seat frame that has to be backed out 3 turns. This is covered in you Operator's Manual. Larry

Super 55 temp gauge

IP: 71.115.194.31 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 07:21:11 PM by Mark

Larry- great resouce you have here, I have learned alot from reading the archives. My 1957 Super 55 had a temp gauge that wasn't working so I replaced it with a brand new one. I ran the tractor for about 10 min and the new gauge never budged. Could it be that the tractor is missing the coolant thermostat? Have you seen new gauges that are bad? Thanks in advance! Mark

Re(1): Super 55 temp gauge

IP: 67.2.249.141 Posted on November 4, 2005 at 04:42:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen new gauges that didn't work......it's probably a thermostat that isn't working. You should start the tractor and run it about 1/3 throttle. Then remove the radiator cap. If you see coolant moving, the thermostat is probably at fault. Larry

1650 Brakes

IP: 63.173.203.162 Posted on November 2, 2005 at 09:09:03 AM by Joe

I've got to do some brake work on my 1650 - brakes work, but not enough holding power to hold on the steep slopes here in Ohio. I'm getting a copy of the shop manual - any advice on doing these?

Re(1): 1650 Brakes

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 06:31:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take them apart and inspect them for wear. Make sure the actuating disks are not sticky or frozen. Many times they just get dirty and you can just blow out all of the dirt with a compressor. You may want to put in all new brake disks. I think you can replace the whole set for under $100. You may want to replace the 6 springs that hold the metal plates together, if they appear to be stretched. Larry

1850 diesel

IP: 144.92.86.203 Posted on October 31, 2005 at 09:14:16 AM by mm

I own a 1850 diesel and I see diesel fuel coming from 2 injectors samll amounts. I am not that finiliar with diesel engines therefore my description my be not the best. The leaks are by the big nout on the top looks just under 1inch in diameter and I tried to tighten them but I could not move the nut. Do you have any suggestion on how to stop the leaks

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 06:26:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Sometimes, they just leak!!! Sometimes it is hard to keep them from leaking. You might try to remove the nut and replace the sealing washer. Larry

Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 66.162.187.17 Posted on October 28, 2005 at 03:21:35 PM by Andy Wecker

Larry - I recently rewired the ignition and charging system on my 550 - it has an alternator and a negative ground system. Buckeye Auto Electric sells a great alternator and bracket system, and the whole thing starts and runs great. I bought a cluster gauge from Korves that is compatible with a neagtive ground system - the box was labeld "VE Neg.". But I am having a heck of a time getting that wired up. My old wiring was in pretty bad shape as far as being a useful guide, nobody sells a lighting harness so I am having to make my own, the wiring diagram I bought with the ignition and charging harness from Maibach is not as much help as it could be, the gauge didn't come with anything, and I'm a bit of a novice. I hooked the black wire into the "ACC" post on my ignition switch, I have new sending units from NAPA for oil and temp., but the buzzer runs constantly, oil and amp both glow w/o turning off, and the temp and fuel gauges peg one way or the other.

Re(1): Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 67.138.142.246 Posted on October 28, 2005 at 08:17:38 PM by Tom

I bought a wiring harness from Korves Oliver, it was a little $$$, but saved me lots of time. VERY good quality. They don't offer a "lights" wiring harness, but it's pretty simple. Key to switch to fuse block, split- one back to gauges, one towards fenders, split again under seat- one to RH front fender, one LH frt, One LH rear, one spare for flasher if I ever want it., done.

Re(2): Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.248.140 Posted on October 28, 2005 at 09:13:50 PM by Larry Harsin

What you need is an engine wiring harness with a diagram from Korves. The ones that I have gotten from them have a diagram. Call them and talk to them. Larry

Re(3): Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 66.162.187.17 Posted on October 31, 2005 at 08:10:34 AM by Andy Wecker

Thanks for both your posts - I emailed you separately with the wiring diagram I have. I may have misheard Mark Korves, but I had the impression that the Oliver shops all sell more or less the same harness. I bought my harness from Maibach, but my gauge from Korves. Both the quality and price of the harness ($60) is tough to beat. The cluster gauge is too big relative to the old one, so I don't know whether I will enlarge the hole or not. This didn't surprise the Korves guys, but they said usually the difference (.020") is not so much as to cause a problem fitting. The glass on my old gauge is cracked, and I don't know if it can be salvaged or not. I'll try to keep notes on what I work through with Tom's advice, and then what I accomplish on my own. The Korves support is really great - I'm just hobbled a bit by being a novice.

Re(4): Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 06:23:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Get a half-round file and you'll have the hole large enough it just a little bit. With that particular gauge cluster from Korves, this is a normal problem. Larry

Re(4): Cluster Gauge Wiring for 1963 Oliver 550

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on November 4, 2005 at 04:48:32 PM by john

hey andy,did that wiring harness have the lights that go into the gas and temp gauge holes?? there are 4

Hydra-power

IP: 156.76.147.55 Posted on October 27, 2005 at 04:40:08 AM by Greg LaBonte

Hi Larry, I have a 1966 oliver 1850 gas. I can't get the hydra-power out of direct. The lever will not move. I didn't want to force it to much and break something. Any ideas?

Re(1): Hydra-power

IP: 67.2.248.16 Posted on October 27, 2005 at 10:07:45 PM by Larry Harsin

The problem usually is the arm that the control rod hooks into is siezed on the pivot pin. I would try soaking it with penetrating oil and letting it set overnight or so. It will have to be removed and cleaned to correct it. It has a nylon bushing in the pivot, so you can't heat it with a torch or you will melt the bushing. You'll just have to work with it and get it off of there. Larry

Re(2): Hydra-power

IP: 156.76.147.55 Posted on October 31, 2005 at 03:04:00 PM by Greg LaBonte

I removed the lever arm and cleaned up the pivot pin but I still can't get the spool to move in or out?

Re(3): Hydra-power

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on November 3, 2005 at 06:38:45 AM by Larry Harsin

That spool will have to be removed. But that can't be done until the engine and hydra-power unit are removed from the tractor, so that you can remove the cover on the hydra-power. BIG JOB!!!! Apparently there is a burr or something where that spool slides in the housing. To remove the spool from the cover, you first have to remove the plug that holds the spring and the detent ball against the spool. Many times, the 1/8" pipe plug has to be heated with a torch before you can get it loose with your Allen wrench. Larry

880 Power Steering

IP: 64.33.180.103 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 12:17:19 PM by Stew Kepler

Type A automotive transmission fluid, which was used in the power steering pump of my Oliver 880, is no longer available. Can I use Dextron III in the pump or is there someting else that I should use. Thank you for your help. Stew

Re(1): 880 Power Steering

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 11:04:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Dextron III is fine. Larry

Oliver 77 firing order

IP: 209.167.194.172 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 09:49:00 AM by Kevin Weedmark

I was wondering if you can help me out? I am looking for the firing order of a Oliver 77 6cyl tractor. I have looked on the block etc but cannot find any info. Unfortunately I have misplaced my manual. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 77 firing order

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 11:03:28 PM by Larry Harsin

The order is 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4. Larry

359 Hercules

IP: 69.95.86.86 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 08:06:54 AM by Jeremy

Where can I find a 359 Hercules, and what do they run? I know some of the White's used a 478 Hercules, but did any of the Oliver or Whites use the 359? Or was that strictly a Cockshutt thing? Would like help finding one.

Re(1): 359 Hercules

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 11:01:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not aware of Oliver or White using a 359 Hercules. You could check with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net I don't know who would have one. Larry

Re(1): 359 Hercules

IP: 70.224.71.166 Posted on October 26, 2005 at 10:52:52 AM by 90%ret'd

Like Larry, I don't ever remember that size Herc in an Oliver. Cockshutt used a 339 in the Super 570, 298 in the 570, 198 in the 550.

770 clutch with hi-lo

IP: 206.10.12.207 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 08:43:01 PM by andrew

i put a new clutch in the 770. When i start the tractor with the clutch disengaged it will go into gear fine but once i let the clutch out and push it back in again it grinds when u try to put it back into gear. The tractor has hi-lo.

Re(1): 770 clutch with hi-lo

IP: 67.2.248.20 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 09:22:51 PM by Larry Harsin

They tend to be that way because of the over-center clutch for the hi-lo. It has a fly-wheel effect. It's just the nature of the beast. If you don't like it, the best thing is to remove the hi-lo assembly and make a straight transmission out of it. Larry

550 oliver

IP: 69.77.130.23 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 08:34:14 PM by Johnny

HELLO LARRY AND OLIVER FRIENDS. ANY BODY KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A NEW OR REPRODUCTION GRILL SCREEN FOR MY 550? THANKS,JOHNNY

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.20 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 09:19:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry

1800 carb problem

IP: 66.115.246.14 Posted on October 22, 2005 at 04:41:36 PM by rick

Just bought a 1963 1800 gas. Good tractor except that it smokes black and runs poorly. The guy I bought it from said he just had a kit put in the carb but it didn't help. It is a Marvel Schebler usx37 aluminum carb. I have heard that these carbs are not ver good. What can I look for in this carb, or is there a better carb I can retrofit onto my tractor? Thanks. Rick

Re(1): 1800 carb problem

IP: 67.2.242.49 Posted on October 22, 2005 at 09:38:15 PM by Larry Harsin

A USX carb has worked out well for us. The carb probably is at fault. The excellerator pump diaphram may be ruptured. You can obtain one from your JD Dealer. If this doesn't fix it, it may have an improper setting on the float. If that doesn't work, send it to me and I'll see if I can fix it. Larry

Re(2): 1800 carb problem

IP: 66.115.246.14 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 07:08:30 PM by Rick

I got a diaphram from JD today and installed it this evening. It runs much better. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us Larry.

1850 gas to diesel

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 21, 2005 at 08:30:08 AM by Robb

Larry, Now that I have found your site I can actually get some of my questions answered. I have a 1965 1850 gas with 1600 hours on it, but the motor is stuck. I found a complete 4-53 Detroit out of a 1900 that runs with everything from the radiator to the transmission. How hard will this be to install, or can it be done at all? Thanks, Robb

Re(1): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 65.6.57.199 Posted on October 21, 2005 at 07:49:36 PM by george

I don't think it will be a big chore to change. I believe you would need a tub. If you have the tub which I assume you do and not to step on toes do you want to sell the gas motor.

Re(2): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 67.2.249.66 Posted on October 21, 2005 at 09:23:28 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it is doable. You'll have to take the front frame with the 1900 engine and attach it to the transmission on the 1850. Larry

Re(3): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 08:40:43 AM by Robb

I would consider selling the gas motor as long as I can get a diesel transplanted. I have to first get the old 1850 apart and all of the right parts found. Robb

Re(3): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 08:50:59 AM by Robb

The ad just has everything, but the frame. To make this simpler, what were the diesels that were in the 1850's, what would be the more desireable swap, or should I just pay the $1,200 to rebuild the gasser? Robb

Re(4): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 70.153.105.198 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 06:24:13 PM by George

The dsl was a perkins to do this easily you would still need a tub. A waukesha dsl out of a 1750, 1800, 1855,or 1955 will all swap and be close or more horses. The 16 and under motors will also go in but would be a drastic reduction in power. The 4 53 sounds like a deal just need a tub. I have one out of a 2255 but I don't know how different they are from the Detroit tubs. I have a tub out of a 2-105 white that houses a perkins. Larry may have one for the 1900 or 1950. Someone else may have more info, hope this helps.

Re(5): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 11:11:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd be inclined to keep it a gas engine. I don't have a tub like you need. The 2255 is different from the Detroit tub. The 2-105 White (Perkins) won't fit either. Larry

Re(6): 1850 gas to diesel

IP: 65.6.22.36 Posted on October 26, 2005 at 06:23:16 PM by George

Larry, thanks for the info, thats why I was asking. I figured as much just didn't know and have never took the time to run the numbers.

Oliver 88 standard

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 18, 2005 at 07:35:58 AM by Robb Thomas

I am looking at buying an Oliver 88 Standard and was wondering what the horsepower rating for it would be and a good place to buy decals for it if I buy it. I am not sure of the year of it but it is probably in the serial # somewhere. Thanks Robb

Re(1): Oliver 88 standard

IP: 67.2.249.25 Posted on October 18, 2005 at 09:32:32 PM by Larry Harsin

The HP is the same as an 88 RC, which is about 43 HP when new. Most of them have been upgraded to have 50 HP. You can get decals from Lyle Dumont. Email: oliver@lisco.com If you give us your serial number, we can tell you the year it was built. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 standard

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 20, 2005 at 03:12:42 PM by Robb Thomas

Will this tractor have any problem pulling a 12' disk or a 3-14" plow? I am hoping to go look at it this weekend what would be a fair price? It is not as nice as the one you have posted, but all of the sheet metal is there with no dents or rust, just faded paint. If it hasn't been upgraded to 50hp how would that be done and if it has, how would I know? Thanks Robb

Re(3): Oliver 88 standard

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on October 20, 2005 at 09:30:30 PM by Larry Harsin

This tractor will have no trouble pulling those implements. I would give it a range of $1000 - $3000, depending on condition, how it is equipped, tires etc. Does it run? If it is extra nice, it may be worth more than $3000. About the 50 HP, ask the owner if it has been upgraded or check it with a dynomometer. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 88 standard

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on October 24, 2005 at 08:45:53 AM by Robb

Where can I find the sheetmetal that goes between the fenders and the steering column? I have every thing found except that. The serial # is 821631 which makes it a 1949 I think. Thanks, Robb

Re(5): Oliver 88 standard

IP: 67.2.242.9 Posted on October 25, 2005 at 11:14:25 PM by Larry Harsin

For the sheet metal parts you describe, check with Doug Johnson. Phone 319-347-6332 Email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com Larry

oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 154.11.98.45 Posted on October 17, 2005 at 09:17:16 PM by Toni

HI There... We just bought what we were told is an early 1950 50 horse (gas)Oliver tractor... There were no stickers on it at all but the # on the motor is 190320k100c.... The tranny is stuck in a forward gear,do you have any suggetsions on how to fix it.... We have pictures if you want to see them....

Re(1): oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 67.2.242.15 Posted on October 18, 2005 at 05:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin

What you have is an Oliver 88, Fleetline series. These were built from 1948 - 1954. The k100c block was used in the later Fleetline series. The serial number should be on the left side of the dash. If you would send that, we could confirm the year. As far as the transmission problem, you'll have to remove the gear shift lever and see if you can move the rails to a neutral position. Then try reinstalling the lever and see if it works. If it doesn't work, the cover or the hydraulic system will have to be removed to get at the problem. Larry

Re(2): oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 154.11.98.45 Posted on October 19, 2005 at 08:47:20 PM by Toni

I removed the hydraulic cover & the plate between the hydraulic cover & the main transmission body is loose but will not lift off, ... There was no serial # on the dash anywhere.... Would you have a manual for that tractor,I know with out a year it might be hard to pinpoint the right one...thank you for any info....

Re(3): oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 154.11.98.45 Posted on October 19, 2005 at 03:28:30 PM by Toni

WOOO HOOOOO...Thank you VERY much,am I ever glad to know what kind of tractor it is.... Is there a 3 point hitch that was made for that tractor,or would any hitch do???? Thank you for any info you may have...

Re(4): oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 67.2.248.20 Posted on October 20, 2005 at 04:59:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Saginaw County Tractor Parts makes new after-market 3 pts. for your tractor. 810-638-5787. You can't just use any hitch, it has to be for an 88. Larry

Re(5): oliver 50 horse??????

IP: 216.114.249.65 Posted on October 21, 2005 at 06:04:32 PM by lyle

Hey Toni im not sure if you have done this yet but the pto shaft has to be removed before the hydraliuc ass. can be removed thanks Lyle

Price Quote

IP: 207.118.177.193 Posted on October 17, 2005 at 07:04:08 PM by Eric

My uncle and I are starting to look for a 1655 Diesel and I was wondering what would be a fair price to pay for one in good working condition. Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Price Quote

IP: 67.2.248.44 Posted on October 17, 2005 at 08:18:12 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd say $5000 - $6000. Depends on condition and how it is equipped. Larry

oliver 550 transmission oil

IP: 66.82.113.85 Posted on October 16, 2005 at 01:11:20 PM by Doyle F

Larry - I have a 1973 Oliver 550 operators manual (#432 362) that says the recommended transmission oil is a mixture of 2.5 pints of oil additive (P/N 102 082-A) and 5 gallons of 10W-30 motor oil. Is this oil additive still available and if so where can I get it? Is there an alternative transmission oil that can be used and where can it be purchased? I do not know the year of the tractor but the Serial #'s are:45-0037 and 93216-519. If you know the year, I would also like to know that. Thanks in advance for any help you could give me.

Re(1): oliver 550 transmission oil

IP: 67.2.178.158 Posted on October 16, 2005 at 07:47:45 PM by Jason

That 550 should be a 1960

Re(2): oliver 550 transmission oil

IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on October 17, 2005 at 06:47:59 AM by Larry Harsin

Use 80 - 90 Transmission oil. You can get it at a Farm Supply Store or where you get your oil. That additive is no longer available. As Jason says above, your 550 is a 1960 model. The first number you listed is the spec. number. The serial number is 93216 and the 3 numbers after that have to do with gearing etc. that went into your tractor when it was built. When your tractor was built, a computer moved along the assembly line with it and every time something was put into your tractor, it was punched into a card on the computer. The Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA has found these "Build Cards". For a fee, they will look up your Build Card and tell you about your tractor. They havn't figured out all of the codes yet, but they can tell you quite a lot. They can even tell you to what dealer your tractor was originally shipped. Their email: fchs@fiai.net Their Phone:641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 50 Baler

IP: 12.179.8.195 Posted on October 13, 2005 at 07:50:29 PM by Randy

I am hoping someone can give me the part # for the 2 bronze bushings that go on the plunger end of the pitman arm on this baler. Local AGCO dealer doesn't even have a parts book for this baler. I have a manual but it has no part #'s. Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver 50 Baler

IP: 67.2.249.56 Posted on October 13, 2005 at 09:34:35 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 550

IP: 4.159.183.181 Posted on October 13, 2005 at 06:48:16 PM by Russ

Larry, we have a oliver 550 indrustral that is split in half, I was wondering if you would have a napa part number for the clutch pilot bearing. also were can a guy find pto clutches, clutch, pressure plate, and throughtout bearing we are looking for part numbers Thanks Russ

Re(1): oliver 550

IP: 67.2.249.56 Posted on October 13, 2005 at 09:32:00 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a NAPA number for that bearing. Check with O'Brien Co. Impl. for these parts. Larry

Re(2): oliver 550

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on October 14, 2005 at 05:52:09 PM by john noel

korves oliver.com have everything you need

Re(3): oliver 550

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on October 15, 2005 at 08:47:40 AM by J. Ulmer

Most bearings can be replaced if you have an intact old one at a good industrial supply house who can measure the bearing and cross it over in their books. Lots of times you can find an old number (Fafnir or Timken or BCA) on the old bearing and cross it. Most manufacturers get their stuff from suppliers and often have their merchandise stamped with the supplier's numbers. (John Deere being a notable exception)

OC-3 crawler wiring diagram

IP: 63.24.34.40 Posted on October 12, 2005 at 03:11:59 AM by Kevin Baker

I am needing a wiring diagram for a 1950 OC-3 crawler. The wiring is completly gone off of i

Re(1): OC-3 crawler wiring diagram

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on October 12, 2005 at 07:31:39 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Zimmerman Cletrac at 717-738-2573 or Website: www.olivercletrac.com There is a wiring diagram in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA Ph: 641-228-1099 or Email: fchs@fiai.net OR possibly Zimmerman would have one to sell you. Larry

Roosamaster fuel pump

IP: 203.206.84.40 Posted on October 11, 2005 at 09:30:15 PM by Ken Wright

Larry, There are no numbers on this roosamaster rotary fuel pump, only the leters "cc" and "c" looking at it from the back of the pump where the lines come out from. The model is a DB GFC6, going by this, it is a Flange fitting pump, for a 6 clyinder engine, that runs in a clockwise rotation. If this is the case, then the number one line should come out of the port with the "c" next to it, I need a correct answer for this one as I will probably have to make up some new lines. I currently have the number 1 line coming from the port with "cc" next to it, I'm assuming this stands for counter clockwise?

Re(1): Roosamaster fuel pump

IP: 67.2.248.154 Posted on October 11, 2005 at 10:54:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your assumptions make sense, but why don't you call Central Fuel Injection to make sure. 712-362-4200. Website: www.centralfuelinjection.com Their business is pumps. Larry

Cultivators

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on October 11, 2005 at 06:25:25 PM by Terry

Could you tell me whether a two row cultivator from a 70 will fit a 60? Did they use same type lift etc.?

Re(1): Cultivators

IP: 67.2.248.154 Posted on October 11, 2005 at 10:46:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will. They used the same type of mechanical lift. It will fit exactly. Larry

55 super oil leak

IP: 204.101.190.151 Posted on October 10, 2005 at 06:49:21 PM by Paul

Larry I am having a problem with hydrallic oil going into rear end. Have removed hydallic lift from tractor and re filled with oil and can find no major leaks. Have spun pump with drill and activated lift but do not have enough drill to handle full load with arms tied down. Any suggestions on finding the leak as oviously must be under load leak. Thanks for any help. Paul

Re(1): 55 super oil leak

IP: 67.2.249.169 Posted on October 10, 2005 at 10:20:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I would search for the leak the same way you are. I don't have any other ideas at the present time. Larry

1750 hydraulics

IP: 162.40.76.148 Posted on October 8, 2005 at 05:27:49 PM by Anthony

I am still working on trying to get my hydraulics hooked up (see June posting). I have taken out the plug on the front left corner of the hydraulic unit (under the seat). And I have taken out the 1/2" pipe plug about 2 1/2 inches back, but when I went to put in the 3/8" socket pipe plug I didn't find any threads. I have a cab on and maybe I can't see the right plug. Am I in the wrong spot? On my tractor there is another plug between the one going forward and the one 2" back. Do I need to do something with that plug? Do I need to take that plug out and some how replace that with something to force the fluid around? Just as an added piece of information, the plug that was 2" back pointing toward the fender had a long special plunger on the end. Any advice? Anthony

Re(1): 1750 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on October 10, 2005 at 06:54:03 AM by Larry Harsin

You are not in the right spot. The plug that you say was "2" back pointing toward the fender" is not the right plug. The plug that you should remove is on the same level as the first plug you removed. Larry

Manifold paint and primer

IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on October 7, 2005 at 01:11:57 PM by Dave Drury

Larry, What is the proper paint and/or primer to use on the intake and exhaust manifolds on my 1967 1550? In short, what is a good high temp silver for use on the exhaust. Also, what color should the carburator be? Thanks, Dave Drury

Re(1): Manifold paint and primer

IP: 67.2.248.228 Posted on October 7, 2005 at 11:42:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a high temp. silver that comes in a spray can. I get it at my Farm Fleet store. It says High Temperature on the can. The spray can is all I have found it in. You can also get high temp black for manifolds and mufflers, too. The carb should be green. Larry

1755 steering? oil leak

IP: 207.170.23.53 Posted on October 4, 2005 at 12:12:20 PM by Dave

My 1755 sprung a large oil leak in the steering area. It sprayed it every where. I took the side covers and the 1/4" plate just foward of the dash but can`t spot the leak.It is a newer one that has the push button on the center of the wheel.I am thinking that it is the supply line that is coming from the pump but am looking for advice.Is there any hyd. in this area for the brakes? The tractor was parked at the time with the hand brake on when she blew. I think I lost approx. 5 gallons of oil before I got her shut off. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1755 steering? oil leak

IP: 67.2.248.185 Posted on October 4, 2005 at 10:52:12 PM by Larry Harsin

What you are working on is a hair puller and it will be hard to find the leak. My experience says it will probably be the pressure line that goes from the pump to the steering unit. This is about one of the worst things you will have to fix. You can't see it and it is all packed in there behind and underneath. It's a dinger. Larry

Re(2): 1755 steering? oil leak

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on October 5, 2005 at 09:40:00 PM by J. Ulmer

Really encouraging response from Larry, eh! :) I don't have a 1755, but I ran into a mess with a Bucyrus-Erie Hydro-crane which had about a jillion old hydraulic lines going through a panel and tower. It was built in 1968 and I got it in 2002 or 2003 and it had lots of time to age its hoses with heat, sunlight, age, and weathering. We could not see where all the lines went through, but had a small gold mine at todays oil prices running out the bottom. A guy at the coffee shop suggested using a wire as a fish tape and pulling a white strip of cotton cloth (like an old Tee shirt) through, pressuring one line at a time with air (as you have a good leak also you don't need thousand pound pressure to get leakage.) We steamed and cleaned out everything and isolated which line was emitting fluid and then undid it and snaked it out and built another and snaked it back in. There were steel tubing sections in the line and we just used a hose all the way, but later we found another line with friction holes rubbed where the rubber bushings mounted had fallen apart and out resulting in motion everytime the hose flexed under pressure and relaxed as the pressure was let off resulting an a short movement which rubbed a hole in the steel tubing line. The cloth can show you the approximate distance through the mess where your leak is without having to run oil plumb out the bottom. This advice is probably worth every penny it cost you so lots of luck!!!Jerry

Web Counters