1850 steering

IP: 64.179.149.200 Posted on October 30, 2008 at 10:06:04 PM by Dan Hunhoff

I just purchased an 1850 D. Going down the highway it drifts R and I musc constantle turn slightly to the L to keep it straight down the road. Is there an adjustment for this or do I need new parts?

Re(1): 1850 steering

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on October 31, 2008 at 06:16:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Usually when it does that, it is the hydra motor on the bottom of the steering wheel. If it is real bad, you will have to replace the hydra motor. Larry

oliver 60

IP: 76.177.207.74 Posted on October 30, 2008 at 11:46:17 AM by K. W. Mink

I am new at tractor restoration and wanted to ask about my electrical system. The battery is a 8 volt , does this mean that the coil and voltage regulator and generator are not 6 volt but 8 volt? I am going to rewire the lights and will a 6volt bulb work on a 8 volt system? thanks KW

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on October 30, 2008 at 08:43:16 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You have a 6 volt tractor with a 6 volt regulator and generator. It is a common practice to use an 8 volt battery. 6 volt bulbs will work. Larry

Re(2): oliver 60

IP: 76.211.13.70 Posted on October 31, 2008 at 08:04:53 AM by Terry Allen

When can an 8-volt battery be purchased. Have never heard of or seen one, while working on vehicles for 40+ years.

Re(3): oliver 60

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on October 31, 2008 at 08:11:52 PM by Larry Harsin

They have them and some people like to use them. Larry

Super 88 Injection Pump

IP: 24.227.246.236 Posted on October 29, 2008 at 01:09:43 PM by Craig Scott

Will an injection pump off a Super 77 work adequately on a Super 88?

Re(1): Super 88 Injection Pump

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on October 29, 2008 at 07:58:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will work. Larry

1550 Sleeve Puller

IP: 75.105.241.142 Posted on October 29, 2008 at 09:51:02 AM by Robo

I'm in the process of fabricating a sleeve puller to use on a 1550 gas. I plan on using a 1/2" thick, round steel plate for the bottom. Being that the engine is not yet opened up, I would like to know the diameter of the cylinder counter bore at the bottom, so I can make the plate just a bit smaller. Thanks

Re(1): 1550 Sleeve Puller

IP: 75.104.188.245 Posted on October 30, 2008 at 08:40:49 PM by Larry Harsin

It is 4 inches in diameter. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC- Front Wheel Seal Installation

IP: 69.208.1.146 Posted on October 27, 2008 at 08:24:38 PM by Terry Allen

This unit has the dual-wheel tricycle front. What is the best way to install the axle seal. The seal must be installed from soft side (not metal). How is it driven into position without damaging the sealing surface side? What lube should be used?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC- Front Wheel Seal Installation

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 27, 2008 at 11:05:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I do it with a hammer and small punch and carefully tapping it in working around the seal. I use ordinary lithium based gun grease in the wheel bearings. Larry

1650 drawbar question

IP: 216.65.163.156 Posted on October 26, 2008 at 10:12:29 PM by Mark K

Hi - my 1650 gas has a wide swinging drawbar and no 3 point hitch. Can this tractor take a 3 point hitch if the drawbar is removed? If not, are there tillers or mowers that will work with the wideswing drawbar setup? Thanks, Mark

Re(1): 1650 drawbar question

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 27, 2008 at 05:42:40 AM by Larry Harsin

There is pull type equipment available for that tractor. What you have is a "wheatland" model. Those wheatland models have a completely different hydraulic system than the row crop versions. It would be quite expensive to put a row crop style hydraulic system and 3 pt. on that tractor. In my book, it would be prohibitive. Larry

1655 main bearings

IP: 68.220.107.34 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 11:22:35 PM by Cleon Couey

Can main bearings be replaced without removing the cylinder head as the rod bearings can?

Re(1): 1655 main bearings

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 26, 2008 at 02:19:16 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. They can be replaced by removing the oil pan and taking the caps down one at a time and replacing the inserts. Larry

Oliver 1850 speedometer

IP: 207.118.28.84 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 10:25:36 PM by Joel Mietzner

I have a 1850 diesel (Perkins 354). I have searched all over the transmission's front housing look for the attachment point without sucess. Could you please let me know how to find the location or send me a picture of where it is situated on the tractor.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 speedometer

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 26, 2008 at 02:17:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The speedometer is driven off of the front of the bevel pinion shaft, which is the bottom shaft in the transmission. It has a cast iron cover. There is a fitting on that cover where the drive fits on. If you don't have this, you may have a tractor that was ordered out with a bevel pinion that was made for 4 Wheel drive, so that a 4 wheel drive unit could be installed. In this case, the speedometer was driven out of the drop box for the 4 wheel drive. If this should be the case, you will not be able to install a speedometer on this tractor. (there would be not drop box). Larry

550 Oliver 3-point

IP: 65.39.96.102 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 09:57:14 AM by Tim Sherbeck

I have a 550 oliver that the 3-pt does not work correctly. I have taken it apart and cleaned it. I replaced all o-rings and the leather on the cylinder. I adjusted according to service manual. It will work when you first run the tractor, then it blows oil out the breather and will not lift right. After you run it for awhile it will begin to leak oil into the transmission housing. Any ideas? Thanks, Tim

Re(1): 550 Oliver 3-point

IP: 75.105.51.182 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 07:24:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd say your pump is shot. Larry

Re(2): 550 Oliver 3-point

IP: 65.39.96.102 Posted on October 26, 2008 at 08:51:10 AM by Tim Sherbeck

Larry thanks for the info. Do you have a hydraulic pump or know were I could find one?

Re(3): 550 Oliver 3-point

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 27, 2008 at 05:45:22 AM by Larry Harsin

For a different pump, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 216.232.213.139 Posted on October 24, 2008 at 01:25:34 PM by Orest

I would like to know the manufacture of the engine and the firing order I belive the engine is a waukisha I don't think the spelling righ. Thank you OREST

Re(1): oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on October 24, 2008 at 09:05:30 PM by Larry Harsin

The engine is an Oliver Waukesha. Oliver did the casting and Waukesha did the machine work and built the engine. Most of the ones built from 1940 on were built that way. Oliver 60 on up. There were trucks that hauled the castings to Waukesha and then hauled the completed engines back. The firing order is: 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 216.232.213.139 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 11:53:38 AM by orest

having more problems do you know what make the distributor is and the maufactures original number I am looking for points, condenser, rotor and cap. one other thing, what is the displacement of the engine in cubic inches? orest

Re(3): oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 75.105.51.182 Posted on October 25, 2008 at 07:23:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It should say on the side of the distributor, what kind you have. The earlier 1555's came with a Holley Dist. The later 1555's came with a Mallory Dist. You should be able to get the points, condenser, rotor and cap from your NAPA Store or your AGCO Dealer. If you have a Mallory, you may have to go to your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You should get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. The displacement of the engine is 231 Cu. in. Larry

Re(4): oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 216.232.213.139 Posted on October 27, 2008 at 12:51:20 PM by orest

The tag on this distributor is gone and we need #'s for them. I'm located in Canada so some of this info is hard to find. Thanks in advance orest

Re(5): oliver 1555 tractor

IP: 75.105.50.168 Posted on October 28, 2008 at 12:21:57 PM by Larry Harsin

The Holley distributor has a cast iron base with a vacuum advance. The Mallory distributor has an aluminum base. I don't have the numbers...... If you just tell your parts man what you have, he would be able to get the right parts for you. Larry

Oliver 70

IP: 209.248.150.234 Posted on October 24, 2008 at 09:53:15 AM by John Shaddy

I purchased an Oliver 70 (201359)which sat for years in a barn with cattle. All wires were chewed and pulled off terminals. I bought a wiring harness and service manual shows magneto. I have distributor coil. Can suppy wiring-advise what I need? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on October 24, 2008 at 09:00:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the wiring. You can get wiring from an auto supply store. You will have to run a wire from the ammeter to the ignition switch and then a wire from the ignition switch to the coil. Larry

Oliver hyd cylinder

IP: 205.188.116.77 Posted on October 22, 2008 at 06:49:56 PM by Bill

I need to rebuild the hydro electric cylinders for a 770 and was wondering how to get them apart. Does the magnet come off first or is it part of the gland? And what holds it together? Is there a lock devise keeping it from coming unscrewed? Thanks Bill

Re(1): Oliver hyd cylinder

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on October 23, 2008 at 06:11:25 AM by Larry Harsin

The gland is held into the cylinder barrel with a snap ring. To remove the magnet, you have to remove the cylinder rod from the gland first. You have to take it all apart before you can get the magnet out. Larry

Test gas gauge

IP: 129.42.161.36 Posted on October 22, 2008 at 04:51:37 PM by Dean Schmidt

I have an 880. The gas gauge quit working. I had some bad connections but corrected all those issues and still gauge stays on E. Is there a way to test if gauge or sending unit is the failing item?

Re(1): Test gas gauge

IP: 75.104.183.159 Posted on October 23, 2008 at 06:08:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Ground the wire that goes to the sender and see if that makes the gauge read "Full". If it does, then the trouble is in the sender in the tank. It may be just that the float has fuel in it and it won't float. Larry

1655 Oliver oil pressure

IP: 68.220.104.233 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 07:20:15 PM by Cleon Couey

50 psi oil pressure on start up. Gradually falls away to 10 psi after about an hour of running. Removed oil pump to inspect for blockages,obstructions,debris,etc.But found nothing.pump looked good and screen was clear. If engine is shut down at this time it won't start back up until several hours cool down. Resembles weak batteries but it has 2 brand new batteries. The reason we are still running this tractor is we have 40 more acres hay to cut before frost. But I know this can't be good for it. Tell me what I can do short of complete rebuild. I'm sure you know how farmers are always on a budget. Any advice would be appreciated. CC

Re(1): 1655 Oliver oil pressure

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 08:24:36 PM by Larry Harsin

While you have the pan off, check the main bearings and if you see copper, definitely replace them. Sounds like you have a tired engine. I don't think it will hurt to go ahead and use it to finish up, as long as you keep the oil pressure up and replace the bearings. But, 10 lbs of oil pressure isn't enough. This winter, it should be torn down and overhauled. Larry

550 Oliver 3-point

Author: Tim Sherbeck

Date: October 21, 2008 at 11:14 AM

I have a 550 oliver that the three point does not work correctly. I have replaced the o-rings and the leather on the piston. It will work initially then blows oil out the breather on top of housing and will not lift.It will also leak oil into transmission. Any ideas? Thanks.

Re: 550 Oliver 3-point

Author: Larry Harsin

Date: October 21, 2008 at 10:33 PM

It sounds to me like you have a bad pump. It is probably leaking oil out into the transmission. Larry

one way cylinders

IP: 74.34.75.211 Posted on October 20, 2008 at 07:33:10 PM by ronnie dewitte

looking for some one to tell me how to plumb my 77 for one way cylinders

Re(1): one way cylinders

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 06:46:10 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll need a momentary restrictor. The plunger and spring parts numbers are K2114 and K2115. The swivel with those pieces in, is plumbed back to the reservoir and the other hose goes to the cylinder. I normally hook up the one way to the left side of the unit and if it is going to be a very large cylinder, you should have a reservoir tank to give it more oil. If you need any of these items, call me 712-362-2966. Larry

1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 72.161.145.133 Posted on October 20, 2008 at 03:58:04 PM by dan mclane

I have a 1600 Row crop wide front end. I keep having trouble with the steering pitman shaft and sector arm. The securing bolt keeps wearing out and I lose steering. Is the pitman shaft supposed to be splined into the sector arm? I think mine only uses the bolt to keep things from turning on the pitman? If there were splines on this connection they are gone now. Where can I get replacements or do you have a better solution? Thanks Dan

Re(1): 1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 06:37:48 AM by Larry Harsin

There are splines and they are probably shot. You will have to take it apart and replace the worn pieces. It may need both the shaft and the pitman arm. Your AGCO Dealer should have the parts and A&I will have the parts. A&I is cheaper. You can get A&I Parts from your John Deere as John Deere owns a share of A&I. There should be a parts number on the pitman arm, that will tell them what they need to know, Larry

Re(2): 1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 72.161.145.133 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 07:50:48 AM by dan mclane

Just to be clear. Are you saying that the sector arm is splined where it attaches to a spline on the pitman shaft? Is it possible that I had a sector arm that was not splined, but just had a bolt to hold the position?

Re(3): 1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 4.249.102.134 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 10:47:53 AM by Larry from Maryland

The splines are small and only on one side so they can be missed. You have a common problem.

Re(4): 1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 72.161.145.133 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 11:10:10 AM by dan mclane

Is there a better solution for a repair or upgrade? Maybe welding the sector arm to the pitman? The combined replacement for these two items is over $300.

Re(5): 1600 Row pitman and sector arm

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 08:31:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You better just buy the parts and fix it. You will have to have both the splined part and the bolt for this to work properly. Larry

clutch repairs

IP: 209.83.9.142 Posted on October 20, 2008 at 11:56:42 AM by PAUL

Just wondering how the clutch housing comes apart on a 770 gas engine oliver . Does it come apart without removing the engine?Any help would be wonderful, shes grinding pretty hard already going into gear.

Re(1): clutch repairs

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 21, 2008 at 06:32:51 AM by Larry Harsin

If the 770 has a Power Booster in it, you will have to remove the engine to service the clutch. If it doesn't have PB Trans, you will not have to remove the engine. In either case, you will have to remove the PTO drive shaft that goes from the rear up to the engine. Then, unbolt it and get it up out of there. I usually unbolt the dash and lay it up on the engine. This way you can avoid unhooking all of the wiring etc. Larry

radiator cap

IP: 68.29.189.116 Posted on October 19, 2008 at 05:40:57 PM by Tom

Thanks for the lead on Maibach Tractors - they came through with an AGCO governor spring even though my local AGCO dealer could not find one. Now, my next concern - a radiator cap for my 1800B gas. When the tractor is warm, I get a drip of coolant from the cap. There is an overflow tube that runs from the neck of the radiator down in front of the core, but I'm getting a leak at the cap itself. It also steams from the cap when I shut it down. The gasket in the cap looks pretty shot. I've looked for a new cap but haven't found one. In fact, after looking around, I'm more confused than ever. This is a pressurized system, right? With no surge tank, am I supposed to leave some space in the top tank? I've been filling it to the top. Do you know of a source for a replacement cap, or can my old cap be rebuilt with a new seal and maybe new spring? I see references to a long and short necked radiator, how do I tell which I have?

Re(1): radiator cap

IP: 75.104.183.135 Posted on October 20, 2008 at 05:31:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Long or short neck doesn't make any difference. Just get a new cap. Did you check with Maibach? They should have one. Larry

550 spindle

IP: 12.192.137.117 Posted on October 16, 2008 at 04:39:22 PM by Glenn Lockwood

I *bent* the L spindle shaft shortly after I bought the tractor in 1995. Got a replacement from dealer but had to adjust the tie rod quite a bit to align the front end. Also the castle nut must be overtorqued to get a cotter pin in it. I have broken 3 spindles since and get the same part to repair. I want to get one like the first one I had that fit the hub correctly and wouldnt break off at the outside bearing taper. The original left spindle looked like the one on the right side. A=9.5 B=1.25 C=1.25 D=0.75 I suspect someone upgraded the front end by using non-stock parts. Specifically a stronger spindle with a wider hub. I believe when I got the tractor the bushings were worn and the shaft was already bent because the steering arm nut had nearly punctured the tire from rubbing on it. I replaced the bushings and thrust bearing with the 1995 repair. Any ideas on what I should do? I'm breaking this spindle every year with FEL loads that don't seem excessive to me. I have liquid in the tires and use a counterweight on the 3 point to help take weight off the front end. And FYI I was able to adapt a power steering pump from a 1996 Hyundai elantra to replace the cessna pump by soldering up an inlet pipe from brass pipe fittings and fabricating a bracket from flat stock. It's a little weak but works.

Re(1): 550 spindle

IP: 75.105.50.70 Posted on October 18, 2008 at 05:18:17 AM by Larry Harsin

You could contact Kent Gordon in Palestine TX 903-729-8349 for a used original style front spindle. It sounds to me like you are overloading your unit. You might ask Kent (when you call him), about installing an Industrial front axle, which would have heavier spindles. Larry

Fuel gauge

IP: 72.251.63.173 Posted on October 15, 2008 at 10:43:53 AM by corrie

My 1650 diesel fuel gauge starting taking a long time to work. I looked for a loss connection but didn't find any. I even ran new wires. Do they make a new sending unit or is there someting I might be missing? Thank you for a your help.

Re(1): fuel gauge

IP: 75.105.50.70 Posted on October 18, 2008 at 05:10:15 AM by Larry Harsin

There are new sending units available from AGCO. It could be the gauge itself, also. Larry

Super 55 Loader

IP: 65.111.51.69 Posted on October 13, 2008 at 11:17:24 AM by Dave

I'm trying to find out what loaders are available for use with my Super 55. I've looked all over and information is sparce.

Re(1): Super 55 Loader

IP: 75.105.54.145 Posted on October 13, 2008 at 09:00:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver loaders that fit are 59A and 1510. Larry

Oliver plow

IP: 66.103.177.220 Posted on October 13, 2008 at 07:52:25 AM by Bob Elliott

Where do I find plowshares for an old oliver 2-14's bottom mechanical lift plow. It has only 3 bolts holding it on.

Re(1): Oliver plow

IP: 75.105.54.145 Posted on October 13, 2008 at 08:58:02 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from AGCO or Valu Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Oliver 880 RC

IP: 74.75.233.159 Posted on October 12, 2008 at 04:48:23 PM by Ron Grother

Is the 770 and the 880 floor board the same.

Re(1): Oliver 880 RC

IP: 75.104.190.91 Posted on October 12, 2008 at 11:40:46 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are not. They are a different size etc. Larry

Oliver 880

Author: James McKendrick

Date: October 10, 2008 at 8:39 PM

I just purchased a oliver 880 diesel, could you tell me the year, and hores power of this tractor, and what make of engine it has. spec # 48-1421 serial #87856-873. I live in Tooele Utah, not many olivers in this area. thank you Jamee McKensdrick

Re: Oliver 880

Author: Larry Harsin

Date: October 12, 2008 at 9:59 AM

Your 880 was built in 1960. It has 60 hp. The engine was built by Waukesha. Larry

oliver 500

Author: Fred Baraw

Date: October 8, 2008 at 7:13 PM

We have an oliver 500 specification #VAD/2OA, Seriel # 101092D, and was wondering if you had any parts that would fit it and maybe that you knew what year this tractor might be. We are unable to find parts for it in Vermont.

Re: oliver 500

Author: Larry Harsin

Date: October 9, 2008 at 8:45 AM

Your Oliver 500 was built in England by David Brown in 1961. Depending on what parts you need, some things you can order at a Case IH Dealer. We have some contacts with people in Canada. Elmer Landman 519-363-2663 is a member of the David Brown Collectors. Also, you can check out this website. www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Larry

1650 shifting issue

IP: 64.208.230.145

Posted on October 6, 2008 at 11:47:46 AM by Kevin

I have an occasional shifting problem with my 1650, which is a 1966 or 1967 model, I think. On occasion it will ÒstickÓ in position where I can only move between two gears, like 5th and 1st or 6th and 3rd, basically back and forth and no sideways in the neutral position. Usually I fiddle with it long enough or drive it around and sooner or later it releases and everything is normal. I donÕt slam it around and shift slowly. The last time it happened, I took the shift handle out, (being careful not to drop the springs down in the tranny!) and the slotted piece down in the tranny swung freely left to right. I stuck a long handle screw driver down in there and gently poked around as a ÒHail Mary Ò play, put it back together and it has worked fine since. The shift ball on the end of the shift rod looked pretty good and there was some wear on the flats on the side of the shift rod; normal wear and tear, I assume? I have no idea what I Òfixed Òby poking around down in the tranny but I read my manual and it brought tears to my eyes at the prospect of tearing it down, particularly with the big Hinniker cab setting on it. One other bit of info on this long-winded question. This tractor had sat for a decade before I got it and I drained all 32 quarts of rear end fluid out and replaced it and the filter. I checked it after my latest shifting problem and it is sort of a creamy coffee color again. I am not losing a lot of hydraulic fluid, so might I have some water still in the rear end or what causes that gear lube to become milky brown colored? Is a tranny teardown in my future?

Re(1): 1650 shifting issue

IP: 75.104.190.239 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 12:13:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think that anything is necessarily, radically wrong. It could get that way over a year's time. I'd drain it and put in new. I don't think you will necessarily have a tranny tear down either. I have encountered this shifting problem before and I couldn't find anything wrong either. Larry

Re(2): 1650 shifting issue

IP: 12.47.110.48 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 01:13:04 PM by Kevin

Thanks, that is just the answerI was HOPING for!I'll drain it and replace before winter really hits here in Iowa

S88 diesel alternator

IP: 69.78.129.12 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 09:38:39 AM by Matt

I recently purchased a S88 dsl. Noticed the generator had been replaced with a l2 volt alternator but with no voltage regulator present. Do I need to install one? If so does the wireing and battery arangement (positive ground) stay the same way the manual shows? Thanks

Re(1): S88 diesel alternator

IP: 75.104.190.239 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 12:07:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that the alternator has a built in regulator inside. It will be negative ground now, instead of positive. With an alternator, it is alway negative ground, Larry

Re(2): S88 diesel alternator

IP: 69.78.129.15 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 04:24:33 PM by Matt

Thanks Larry, I wrote in a while back about this 88 having excessive fuel smoke cold or warm. I turned the pump down a bit and changed all the injector nozzels ,but still no real change yet. Im thinking about timeing the injector pump next and check my compression. Any ideas on these proceedures? Thanks again

Re(3): S88 diesel alternator

IP: 75.104.190.239 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 11:22:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd check the marks to make sure the pump is timed correctly. The marks should line up when the pointer on the flywheel is at FP (Firing Point). You can adjust the smoke screw on the PSB pump. Adjust it counter clockwise to lessen the smoke. Larry

1655 electronic ignition

IP: 70.215.203.111 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 07:18:55 AM by Micha Lyttle

Do you know if there is still an aftermarket conversion to electronic ignition available for my 1655? Thanks, Micha

Re(1): 1655 electronic ignition

IP: 75.104.190.239 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 12:05:47 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't know. Check with Tom Hassenfritz Equip. 800-634-3731. Larry

Re(2): 1655 electronic ignition

IP: 72.171.0.148 Posted on October 6, 2008 at 08:39:32 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Yes, Petronix Igniter. Have them in all of my tractors. Get the Petronix Flamethrower coil to go with them.

oliver super 55

Author: Claude Shepherd

Date: October 3, 2008 at 3:05 PM

I BOUGHT A SUPER 55 DIESL WITH A ROD YOU PUSH TO PUSH A BUTTON ON THE STARTER TO START IT RUN GREAT BUT THE GENERATOR HAS NO WIRES RUN TO IT THE REGULATOR SITS ON TOP OF GENERATOR IT HAS 2 WIRES HOOKED AN THEY GO TO AMP GUAGE CAN YOU TELL ME WHERE TO HOOK THE WIRES TO THE GENERATOR AND WHERE TO RUN THEM TO THE GENATOR HAS 2 STUDS TO HOOK TO AND THE REGULATOR HAS 3 THANK YOU

Re: oliver super 55

Author: Larry Harsin

Date: October 9, 2008 at 8:39 AM

Both of the terminals on the generator, go to the regulator. A on the gen. goes to the A or Generator terminal on the regulator. The F post on the generator goes to the F post on the regulator. You should get an Operator's Manual for this tractor. It has a wiring diagram. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry

1962 500 shifter trouble

IP: 198.208.251.24 Posted on October 3, 2008 at 07:08:54 AM by Matt Shelburne

My 550 began poping out of gear last night while hauling dirt (slip scoop). It has always made a clicking sound when in either of the reverse gears, but this sound has become worse in either fwd or reverse - sounds like the gears are gently clicking against each other - but out of time with one another. The shifter feels like it is engaging, but the throw may be shorter now. Has anyone ran into this before? The tractor has a rough life before I picked it up a few years back, but has always worked well until now. The condition worsened over a 20 minute period, so I quit until I can get a good diagnosis/repair.

Re(1): 1962 500 shifter trouble

IP: 75.104.188.19 Posted on October 3, 2008 at 10:39:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the cover off of the rear end and see if you can see anything. Something has probably come loose. Larry

Oliver 550 carburetor

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 07:19:53 PM by Larry K

MS TSX 811 carburetor on my 550 is all of a sudden gone crazy. It has been cleaned several times. At a show this weekend, the tractor stalled and would only run with the choke on. Opened it up and everything was clean. Still, it needs the choke. All adjustments were almost all screws in as far as they would go. I checked the gas flow it was good. What should I try next? When I had it on the dyno, 28 HP was all I could get even though it was a fresh overhaul with about 30 hours on it.

Re(1): Oliver 550 carburetor

IP: 75.104.161.144 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 09:47:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Is your float level correct? Are you getting adequate fuel into the carb? Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 carburetor

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on October 4, 2008 at 05:59:01 PM by Larry K

Float is at 1/4 as per manual. I had some crap in the fuel bowl, but screen was clean -flushed lines. My coil wire was loose and I tighten it to prevent spark gap. Points are good. Coil wire fix made it better, but both hi and low adjustment screws are turn in all the way and no effect on engine speed. Runs fast but will not idle. I sprayed propane on the manifold gaskets and that did not affect the engine.

Re(3): Oliver 550 carburetor

IP: 75.104.188.162 Posted on October 4, 2008 at 07:36:12 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have your load needle screwed all of the way in, it should stop the engine (starve it). If this isn't happening, fuel is getting in somewhere. Something is wrong. I just reread your problem and these are my thoughts. You should be running the idle mixture approx. 3/4 turn open, the load needle should be a turn and a half open. Then, maybe you won't have to have the choke on to make it run. Larry

Oliver 1600 Problems

IP: 12.216.7.181 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 11:28:41 AM by Jim Fitzgerald

My dad's cousin has an Oliver 1600 gas that is a later model. He is having trouble with the tractor as it will start and run great for 20-30 minutes. Then the tractor will spudder out and die. We thought it might be the coil, so he installed a new one and no change. He checked and cleaned sediment bowl and blew out fuel line. He said if he lets it sit for maybe 5 minutes, it will start up again and run for another 20-30 minutes. Do you have any ideas on what to try? We are checking to see if he has some sort of fuel filter in-line but other than that, we are out of ideas. Thanks in advance for you help, we have always enjoyed working with you.

Re(1): Oliver 1600 Problems

IP: 75.104.161.144 Posted on October 2, 2008 at 09:35:04 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing is to make sure your engine is getting fuel. I would check again the fuel strainer at the bottom of the tank. Then, I would try using a jumper wire and come from the main lead, where the battery cable hooks onto the starter, and go directly to the coil, thus bypassing the ignition switch and the wire to it. See if that makes any difference. This is the next thing I would do. If that doesn't help, possibly replacement of points and condenser. Larry

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