rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on October 30, 2009 at 04:55:45 PM by dale

Larry,i had a professional engine builder redo my 1947 oliver 70.The cylinders looked pretty good so we agreed to just re-ring it.Ever since i cannot get it to stop smoking.We thought it would break in,but no luck.It doesn't work hard,just for show.Any crazy ideas? thanks Dale in PA

Re(1): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 75.104.188.220 Posted on October 31, 2009 at 07:38:34 PM by Larry Harsin

70'S PUT A LOT OF OIL IN THE ROCKER ARM AREA. YOU MAY BE GETTING SOME OIL GOING DOWN THROUGH THE VALVE GUIDES. YOU COULD TRY TO REDUCE THE FLOW UP THERE, MAYBE CUT IT IN HALF OR SOMETHING AND SEE IF THAT HELPS. THE FIRST THING I WOULD DO IS PUT NEW WICKS IN THE ROCKER ARMS AND SEE IF THAT WORKS. THE PART # FOR THE WICKS IS B213A. WICKS FOR AN 88 WOULD WORK ALSO. THEY ARE # H213A. LARRY

Re(2): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on November 2, 2009 at 09:41:02 AM by Dale in Pa

we put rubber boots over intake valves thursday.should be positive seals.That didn't help.I thought i would pick your brain.Is that a wakashaw motor? May be looking for new sleeves and another set of rings. Thanks Dale

Re(3): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on November 3, 2009 at 06:15:09 AM by Dale in pa

Larry,would you have a good rocker arm asm that you could sell me? Dale

Re(4): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 75.104.161.85 Posted on November 3, 2009 at 06:26:41 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a Continental engine. If you want sleeves and pistons, call Monte's Equip in Chicago. 800-228-2625 I don't have a set of rocker arms for a 70. They are usually worn out. Ask Monte's about that also. Larry

Re(5): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on November 8, 2009 at 05:48:03 PM by Dale in Pa

I hate to ask this,but how do you replace the wicks in the rockers? Dale

Re(6): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 75.105.51.155 Posted on November 8, 2009 at 08:11:26 PM by Larry Harsin

You take the whole assembly all apart. Then, use a stiff wire and compressed air to clean out all of the particles of old wicks, if there is anything left in there. Then, you have to use a sharp wire or something to push them in there. I were restoring an old 88 recently and most of the wicks were gone and oil was just pouring over to the valves. I replaced all of them. Larry

Re(7): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on November 11, 2009 at 07:32:24 PM by Dale in Pa

Larry,i found the trick for installing those wicks.Tie a string around the end of wick,feed string through the rocker and pull wick through.Works great!Havent installed on motor yet. thanks,Dale

Re(8): rebuilt engine smokes

IP: 75.104.183.218 Posted on November 14, 2009 at 07:20:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Ha! I think that is a great idea! I'll try that!! Thanks! Larry

1555 conversion

IP: 74.32.232.151 Posted on October 29, 2009 at 03:40:02 PM by Scott

Larry I would like to convert my 2 spd to a 3 spd this winter. I recently picked up the 3spd w, the cooler & lines from a 1655 diesel w/a bad block. Im looking for all the linkeage w/the throtle & over under levers. Do you have something like this? Thanks

Re(1): 1555 conversion

IP: 75.104.188.220 Posted on October 30, 2009 at 06:42:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have those parts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry

Re(2): 1555 conversion

IP: 209.50.29.77 Posted on November 3, 2009 at 11:36:50 PM by B A Star

The 1550 was not produced with the Over/Under aux trans. You are going to have to modify the flywheel and clutch disc or the input shaft to install it. 1650 tractors had a helical gear transmission with pressure lubrication. 1550 has a spur sliding gear transmission. I don't know how the transmission will live with the 20% increase in speed. I learned a long time ago don't tell someone that it can't be done as they will prove you wrong.

1850 clutch

IP: 75.237.172.250 Posted on October 28, 2009 at 06:36:52 PM by Cal Innes

I have an 1850 and the clutch is beginning to slip and I believe it is more than just an adjustment. Does the engine have to be removed for that job? Cal

Re(1): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.104.188.220 Posted on October 29, 2009 at 06:24:43 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has hydra-power drive, you will have to remove the engine with the hydra-power and set it on the floor and then split the hydra-power from the engine. If it does not have hydra-power, you can do it with the engine in the tractor. Larry

Re(2): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.198.53.12 Posted on November 1, 2009 at 05:37:05 PM by cal Innes

Thanks for the reply! I've been busy and haven't gotten back here to your site until now. The 1850 has the hydraul-shift, just the hi-lo range shift...like the Massey Fergusons' "multi-Power", does that also require the engine removal, the same as the Hydrapower? How is corn harvest progressing?

Re(3): 1850 clutch

IP: 75.104.191.70 Posted on November 1, 2009 at 06:25:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That will require engine removal. The corn harvest locally is going mighty, mighty slow. It is so wet and muddy here. We have had over a month of rain. The corn is terribly wet also. The guys would like it to dry down in the field some more. A few are starting though and drying it. I think it is 26% moisture or more. Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 72.251.63.33 Posted on October 28, 2009 at 06:35:06 AM by corre

Larry Iam finishing a lower end overhaul and getting ready to time engine book says 2 degrees before top dead but can only find the top dead mark on flywheel was wondering about how far from top dead would 2 degrees be I see a punch mark but it is about inch and a half before the top dead is that it seems far thanks in advance for your help

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 75.104.188.220 Posted on October 29, 2009 at 06:20:25 AM by Larry Harsin

Two degrees is approx. an eighth of an inch. The flywheel had a timing tape on it when it was new. The timing tape has worn or fallen off. You can get a new one from an AGCO Dealer. Larry

Wiring Problems

IP: 68.47.34.209 Posted on October 28, 2009 at 05:21:43 AM by JDH

On my 1900A I am replacing the ignition switch. When I got the tractor the ignition switch did not work. The problem I am having is there are 2 orange wires going to the solenoid on the starter. I'm not sure why it has 2. Does one stay hot and the other is the switch? Thanks

Re(1): Wiring Problems

IP: 75.104.161.129 Posted on October 28, 2009 at 05:57:54 AM by Larry Harsin

There should be a wiring diagram in your Operator's Manual. You can get a manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. I'll see if I have a 1900 manual and get back to you, but you should get yourself a manual. Larry

770 carburetor

IP: 208.126.84.198 Posted on October 27, 2009 at 09:25:11 PM by Jim

Larry, The only way I can get my 770 gas tractor to accelerate without hesitating is to have the choke pulled out about 3/8". It idles great at about 375 rpm's as per the operator's manual. I removed the carburetor and cleaned everything. There does not seem to be anything blocking the gas line from the tank. I have a new condensor, rotor and distributor cap. I checked all of the spark plugs so I don't think that it's anything electrical. It just seems to be starved for gas when you accelerate. What am I missing?

Re(1): 770 carburetor

IP: 75.104.161.129 Posted on October 27, 2009 at 10:55:51 PM by Larry Harsin

It may have a limiting jet in the bottom of the carb bowl. I would remove that. It lets the gas down into the chamber where the fuel goes into the load adjusting nozzle. Just take that limiting jet out and try it and see. If your tractor has over sized pistons in it, that is probably what is wrong. The limiting jet isn't letting it get enough gas. Larry

specs - 1855

IP: 69.84.73.103 Posted on October 25, 2009 at 09:08:00 PM by Donovan Boschee

I have a question about a 1855 oliver tractor, Is the engine a perkins or a wauaska engine, the one i am looking at is a diesel. also is there a gas model 1855?

Re(1): specs - 1855

IP: 75.104.183.35 Posted on October 26, 2009 at 06:23:38 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a 310 Waukesha. There is a gas and a diesel 310 Waukesha. Yes. There is an 1855 gas. Larry

oliver 770 wiring

IP: 97.83.31.168 Posted on October 25, 2009 at 06:53:36 PM by Mike

Hi Larry, I have a late 770 with factory alternator. The wiring diagram calls for a "Brown and White Resistance Wire" The original is just one thin wire. What is the purpose of this and is a replacement available. I cant seem to get my AMP light to work.

Re(1): oliver 770 wiring

IP: 75.104.183.35 Posted on October 26, 2009 at 06:21:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Korves Oliver 618-939-6681 for a new wiring harness. This is probably what you need. Talk to Mark Korves about this. There will be a wiring diagram with the new harness. Larry

oliver 880

IP: 67.209.80.142 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 11:39:22 AM by Adam Nelson

I am having a hard time finding a value on a Oliver 880 wide front with a all hydro loader. The tractor does have hoses that swing to the back for implements but no 3 pt. The only other thing I am having trouble with is the wiring of the starter to the battery and battery to the generator or what ever it is that a 880 would have had to recharge the battery. I would like to know how to fix the wiring my self but would also like to sell the tractor. I would appreciate any advice I could get. Thank you Adam

Re(1): oliver 880

IP: 75.104.182.253 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 11:35:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Get a new wiring harness from Korves Bros. It will have a wiring diagram with it. 618-939-6681. Larry

head gasket headache

IP: 74.241.171.135 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 08:16:59 AM by Keith

Larry: I know the 1450 is fiat and not a great engine but do you have any tip to make the head gasket seal (if I can find one) I would like to get the tractor at least running even if it is past its day as a working machine. The gasket has been changed before and it never did seal completly small leak rt side between back two pistons. Can I do anything with the old gaskets (have 2) if I can't find a new one. will try almost anything at this pt. if any hope of working. Thanks

Re(1): head gasket headache

IP: 75.104.182.253 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 11:32:49 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Ag Parts First on this. They have some things for a 1450. 866-264-9720 Larry

Oliver 1800C

IP: 4.255.41.46 Posted on October 19, 2009 at 07:53:54 AM by Larry West

Hi Larry, great site and thanks for the effort! I picked up a 1964 1800C 4WD with loader last week. Overall is in good shape but has two cylinders popping and blowing white smoke when starting cold. It also slobbers raw fuel out number two and five exhaust ports when cold. Kinda warms out of it (quits slobbering) but doesn't smooth out completly. I have the manuals coming from the museum and plan on pulling all the injectors to go to the shop for testing/rebuild. Tractor has less than 2000 hours but has only been used as a loader tractor to move big hay bales and push snow. Would you recommed I pull the engery cells and clean them also? The exhaust looks pretty carboned up from low RPM operations. Are there any tricks in pulling the energy cells and what parts (seals, o-rings, etc) should I get on hand? I can get the part numbers from the AGCO online parts book, but would like to know what I really need for parts before hand. Thanks again, Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1800C

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 19, 2009 at 10:29:14 PM by Larry Harsin

I would pull the injectors and have them tested. If # 2 and #5 cylinders are the offending cylinders, I would pull the energy cell caps off. You don't need any special gaskets for this. If they are plugged, clean them. I'd try using a soft wire or a small drill bit, working at them with compressed air. You don't have to remove them. After you see what you find, go from there. That engine shouldn't be worn out. You won't need any special tools or parts to go this far. Larry

1800C Part 2

IP: 4.255.46.128 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 07:17:43 AM by Larry West

Got the injectors out of my 1964 1800C. Good news is they looked like they had been out recently and came out easy. Sent for bench check anyway. Bad news is finally got the enery cells out and what a mess! Spacers were welded in by heat up to the point the plug threads were almost burnt through on 3 plugs and the remaining spacers were almost burnt through. The cell caps were worse. Three were burnt completly up (as in gone!) with one more half gone and the last two ready to go. Took a 3/4 impact gun to get the plugs out! Wonder it started and ran at all! Parts looks like an issue. Calling OBrians this morning to check on caps, spacers and plugs. Any other place to check for parts? Any ideas on getting the bodies out? Can a bolt be used in place of the special tool shown in the manual? If so what size/thread pitch? I'm still soaking/cleaning at this point. Having fun so far ..... Thanks, Larry

Re(1): 1800C Part 2

IP: 4.249.102.159 Posted on October 23, 2009 at 04:55:53 PM by Larry from MD

I have a puller i made myself. Took a large threaded rod and cut threads to fit the cells. Used a nut and washer to do the pulling. Mine did not pull hard, but were in good shape.I think they are fine thread.

Re(2): 1800C Part 2

IP: 75.104.182.253 Posted on October 24, 2009 at 07:11:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You can use a 3/4 fine thread bolt as a puller. The part numbers for the energy cells are The body is 7AS1732, the cap is K1735. If Tom doesn't have them, you can check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. If you have trouble getting those bodies out with the "puller", you may have to remove the cylinder head to get them out. And then it might be a hard job to get them out. It sounds like they are pretty well burned up. Larry

Re(3): 1800C Part 2

IP: 4.255.45.22 Posted on October 25, 2009 at 07:31:40 AM by Larry West

Thanks Larry! Got the parts on the way. I ordered one new body to use for comparing the condition of the old ones. I'm still soaking the bodies before trying to pull them. The orfice holes all look consistant in diameter, but till I get them out won't know what shape they're really in. I'm thinking somebody used starting fluid at some time to get it started and that's what did in the caps and once damaged, continued use of the tractor finished burning them up. I'll let you know what I find! Thanks again for the info and help. Larry

1850 6 volt battery question

IP: 76.250.135.200 Posted on October 22, 2009 at 06:44:28 PM by Norrod

Hello Larry, My 1967 1850 Diesel has two 6 volt batteries ran in series as per the owners manual. This should mean that the system is 12 volt if I am thinking correctly. If I replaced these with two 12 volt batteries ran in parallel would it do any harm to anything? Do you know why Oliver did this on some of their diesels and ran 12 volt on other 50 series diesels? Thanks so much.

Re(1): 1850 6 volt battery question

IP: 75.104.182.253 Posted on October 22, 2009 at 09:36:35 PM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. Two 12 volt batteries wouldn't harm anything. The two 6 volts in a series had more amperage for more cranking power, than one 12 volt. But they did a few with 12 volts in parallel and that worked also. You can go either way. But the 1850 diesels were all set up with 6 volts in series. Larry

oliver 770

IP: 75.97.62.95 Posted on October 22, 2009 at 03:52:59 PM by Chris Woodruff

Hi I have a oliver 770 gas. i'm wondering for the early model 770's what size tires were on the rear.

Re(1): oliver 770

IP: 75.104.182.253 Posted on October 22, 2009 at 09:31:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The most popular size was 13.6x38. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - Hydra-Lectric Gaskets Replacement

IP: 76.211.11.233 Posted on October 20, 2009 at 09:13:12 PM by Terry Allen

Would like to replace the top cover and housing reservior (between base and housing) gaskets. Can I remove bolts and lift off the cover and then then the base, without problems. Will these two sections come off without parts falling off? Repair manual instructions are vauge.

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - Hydra-Lectric Gaskets Replacement

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 21, 2009 at 06:18:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can do that. No parts will fall off. Just take it apart. Larry

1650 Sector Arms

IP: 204.191.232.245 Posted on October 20, 2009 at 07:14:50 PM by Roy Schulze

I have a 1650 tractor and the sector arm splines are worn out. Could you tell me what other models of tractor use the same sector arm.

Re(1): 1650 Sector Arms

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 21, 2009 at 06:16:42 AM by Larry Harsin

1850, 1600 & 1800 used it. Larry

oliver 580 manure spreader

IP: 63.224.226.100 Posted on October 18, 2009 at 09:42:29 PM by e firestone

larry, i know this is a repeat..but.. is there a site that has pictures of all the oliver equipment made.. i just would like to see a picture of this manure spreader.. maybe even get a manual.. tho it really is not needed, as the machine is pretty straight forward involving repairs..and maybe a picture of a packer i have, and also a grain drill.. this country was a heavy oliver sales area.. this manure spreader is the handiest thing.. you can take the beaters off the back and use the thing like a dump truck also..

Re(1): oliver 580 manure spreader

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 19, 2009 at 06:13:16 AM by Larry Harsin

The Floyd Co Museum in Charles City will have Operator's Manuals for all three of these machines. Call them and see what is available. These manuals may not cost very much and there should be a picture of the machine in them. The Museum also has a large green book that has black and white pictures of "everything" Oliver ever made with the writing about each thing. It is titled, "Oliver Hart Parr" by C.H. Wendel. I believe it runs $40 or so, but if you are going to order several manuals just to get pictures, you may as well buy the book. It would make a good Christmas present! Museum Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): oliver 580 manure spreader

IP: 63.224.226.100 Posted on October 20, 2009 at 09:10:08 PM by e firestone

thankyou Larry... i do believe we will buy the book.. it is a very good idea..looking over the different sites and all the different tractors made by Oliver and then to realize there was a complete line of equipment also is kind of humbling in its own way...

1855 timing spec

IP: 76.0.14.198 Posted on October 18, 2009 at 09:16:37 AM by Bruce

need timing spec for 1855 diesel

Re(1): 1855 timing spec

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 19, 2009 at 06:58:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Two degrees before Top Dead Center. Larry

oliver 88

IP: 207.144.223.108 Posted on October 17, 2009 at 04:16:11 PM by mark

what do i torque the head at?

Re(1): oliver 88

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 18, 2009 at 09:07:01 PM by Larry Harsin

At 100 foot lbs. Then, run for 15 - 20 minutes til it warms up good. Then, shut it off and let it set for half an hour and then re-torque it. Larry

oliver super 55 diesel

IP: 24.17.155.156 Posted on October 17, 2009 at 00:49:51 AM by gary

i am planning to rebuild the engine in my super 55 tractor with an over bore kit with 3 3/4 pistons new injection pump and injectors. how much horse power can i expect from this tractor? any sugetions are welcome. thanks

Re(1): oliver super 55 diesel

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 18, 2009 at 09:05:08 PM by Larry Harsin

First of all I would not put 3 3/4 pistons in a Super 55. The 3 3/4 works pretty good in a gas engine, but I wouldn't use it in a diesel. I would much rather use a 3 5/8 sleeve and piston set-up. You can get this from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. It will make approx. 40 hp with the 3 5/8. Larry

oliver 99 propane

IP: 98.19.41.81 Posted on October 16, 2009 at 11:49:54 PM by roger

Hello. I have a oliver 99 propane. Do you no if oliver made this at the factory? Or was there a kit you could buy a put on. Looking at it it looks factory but i don't know. When i bought it on a sale the owner said he brought it that way at the dealer in nebraska. He was looking for the invoice but never found and has past away. Doing research on line and visting people and i can not get any answers. Maybe you can help me with this. Any information would be great. Thank you for your time. Roger

Re(1): oliver 99 propane

IP: 75.105.51.112 Posted on October 18, 2009 at 09:01:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say it is probably an after market "Field Conversion". I am not aware of any Factory 99 propanes. Larry

Oliver S77 Turnpike

IP: 174.39.242.11 Posted on October 16, 2009 at 04:11:23 PM by tom jones

Have you ever heard of the oliver super 77 turnpike?? Only 32 made??? What kind of information can you give me??

Re(1): Oliver S77 Turnpike

IP: 75.104.188.170 Posted on October 16, 2009 at 04:59:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe you are referring to a Special Order built for maintaining the Kansas Turnpike. They were painted blue with yellow trim. I'm not sure how many were built. You can get more information about these by emailing Chris Losey, Editor of the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. magazine. Email: becky@hartparroliver.org or go to the website: www.centralstatesoliver.com and ask the Kansas collectors. Larry

1855 Waukesha Diesel

IP: 75.121.148.68 Posted on October 15, 2009 at 08:38:49 PM by Greg

How would you rate this motor overall? I hear good and bad about it.

Re(1): 1855 Waukesha Diesel

IP: 75.104.188.170 Posted on October 15, 2009 at 09:37:10 PM by Larry Harsin

It's o.k. if you get them restored correctly. They are not a great engine, but they are a good engine. Larry

Air cleaner

IP: 216.16.55.137 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 01:17:19 PM by Ronald Peters

I bought a 88 diesel head from you this summer and my mechanic put it on without the air cleaner. It looks like it needs to go under the two front head bolts to mount it. Does it hurt to take the bolts back out to put the cleaner on and then retighten?

Re(1): Air cleaner

IP: 4.249.102.240 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 05:39:11 PM by Larry from MD

There should be 2 special bolts just for that they have threads above the nut for the bracket.

Re(2): Air cleaner

IP: 216.16.57.108 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 07:53:56 PM by Ronald Peters

Ok I only see one of those in the middle left side and it showed in the book for a lift hook or something. Maybe need to look for those bolts. Do you have them? R D Peters

Re(3): Air cleaner

IP: 75.104.188.58 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 07:09:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It goes where they put it. It won't hurt to remove the bolts and put them back in. Some of those diesels came with those special bolts that Larry from MD told you about. Yours is not like that. It is o.k. for you to remove the bolts and retorque them. Larry

Oliver Super 55

IP: 216.249.66.85 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 08:11:59 AM by Ron Hardesty

Larry Hi: A friend of mine has come to me with a serial 3 for his Super 55. He is trying to figure out what year it is and where to fill the Hydraulic oil. I told him where the fill cap was on our 550 but he did not have anything to match. The serial # he gave me is 47238-518. He can not find this # anywhere. The closest thing that matches is a oliver 66. He is wanting to get an operator's manual. So any information you can give to me that I can pass on to him would be appreciated. Especially where the Hydraulic fill cap would be.

Re(1): Oliver Super 55

IP: 75.104.188.58 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 07:06:53 PM by Larry Harsin

His fill cap is probably on the left side of the seat instead of on the right side. It should be stamped right there beside the little dipstick saying, "check oil daily". His Super 55 was built in 1957. He should use a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry

oliver 550 positive ground

IP: 67.142.162.37 Posted on October 7, 2009 at 11:06:00 PM by Bill

I just purchased a 1973 oliver 550 with a positive ground electrical system and would like to know if there is any advantage to changing the system over to a negative ground? Also is there any advantage to converting to an electronic distributor & high voltage coil?

Re(1): oliver 550 positive ground

IP: 75.104.188.58 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 06:03:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The tractor was built with positive ground and a generator. I would prefer leaving it the way it was built. But if you want to put the solid state ignition with a high output coil, Korves Bros. Oliver has these. 618-939-6681. If you change to negative ground, you will have to have an alternator instead of a generator. Larry

77 sleeves

IP: 24.177.128.131 Posted on October 7, 2009 at 10:31:31 AM by Schimko

Does anyone know if 77 sleeves can be bored to 3 7/8"?? Also could you put an 88 3 7/8" piston on a 77 rod? I imagine the pins must be bigger in an 88 but can you bore the bushing out in a 77 rod to accept an 88 pin?

Re(1): 77 sleeves

IP: 75.104.188.58 Posted on October 8, 2009 at 05:59:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I think 3 3/4 is the maximum you should bore the 77 sleeves. Korves Bros. has the maximum size that you can install in a 77 block and they are 3 3/4 inch. 618-939-6681. The wrist pins you discuss are all the same diameter, As far as connecting rods, I don't know. Consult your machine shop about these. Larry

Slow hydraulics / service manual

IP: 67.232.205.66 Posted on October 7, 2009 at 06:19:53 AM by Ronjohn

First, I would like to find and purchase a shop manual for what I believe is a 1976- 1465 series. Second, my bucket and loader clyinders move very slow and get stuck in raised position. The loader has power to work but seems it doesn't dump or release the fluid well. can you help?

Re(1): Slow hydraulics / service manual

IP: 75.104.190.181 Posted on October 7, 2009 at 06:46:31 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Service Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. You should also get an Operator's Manual. It will tell you a lot about your tractor. I am not familiar with the hydraulics on the Fiat Olivers built in Italy. Hopefully these manuals will help you. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - Gear Shift Gasket Replacement

IP: 69.221.169.61 Posted on October 6, 2009 at 09:06:13 PM by Terry Allen

Replacing the gasket requires removing the gear shift socket. Do i need to worry about the springs and the seats falling down into the transmission. PLease advise best procedures.

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - Gear Shift Gasket Replacement

IP: 75.104.190.181 Posted on October 6, 2009 at 10:13:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Those can fall down in there, so be careful. If they do fall in, you'll have to use a magnet to retrieve them. When reinstalling, I use heavy grease to help hold the springs in place. Larry

White decals

IP: 71.0.223.148 Posted on October 6, 2009 at 12:51:31 PM by Cliff

I have an 1855 Oliver, serial number 255741685. I think it's a 1975. It came with a canopy on it that has a "White" decal like those on a White tractor cab. I've never seen one like that before; did Oliver put that on there, or maybe a dealer? It's never been repainted, so it must have come like that new. I also saw a White decal on the side tin in front; did they make them like that? Thanks a lot for this site; I absolutely love it. It's been very enlightening. I have my manuals.

Re(1): White decals

IP: 75.104.190.181 Posted on October 6, 2009 at 10:09:04 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Some of those came like that. If you are looking for a new one, contact Lyle Dumont. There is a link to him on our main page. Larry

Loose steering on 88

IP: 71.115.10.96 Posted on October 4, 2009 at 09:08:00 PM by Nick Misch

I have a 1949 Oliver 88 narrow front, and am wanting to know how you tighten up the steering. The front end has a bad shimmy when in 6th gear.

Re(1): Loose steering on 88

IP: 75.104.161.244 Posted on October 5, 2009 at 05:42:56 AM by Larry Harsin

There is an adjustment in the sector that sets the clearance between the worm and the sector. Take the cover off and see what is wrong. It may be bearings out or the distance between the worm and the sector. That is controlled by the eccentric. I recommend you take it apart and replace the seals, O rings and worn parts. (overhaul it) Larry

Re(2): Loose steering on 88

IP: 64.12.116.208 Posted on October 5, 2009 at 07:31:57 PM by Nick Misch

ok, how do you adjust the eccentric? Also do you know where I can get a good hyd. pump for the same tractor? Mine is cracked and can't be repaired.

Re(3): Loose steering on 88

IP: 75.104.161.244 Posted on October 5, 2009 at 08:28:52 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a set screw that holds the eccentric in place. It's in the front and fits in the notches of the eccentric. Remove the screw and turn the eccentric to where you want it and then put the screw back in to hold it. Don't set it up too close or it will bind. I have rebuilt hydraulic pumps on hand. Give me a call 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(4): Loose steering on 88

IP: 64.12.116.201 Posted on October 5, 2009 at 08:53:39 PM by Nick Misch

How much do you want for one of your rebuilt hyd pumps? And once I take out this set screw how do I turn the eccentric? And to get to the set screw I have to take the grills and stuff out right? Thanks for all the help, Nick

Re(5): Loose steering on 88

IP: 75.104.161.244 Posted on October 6, 2009 at 06:24:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You should just remove the radiator shell and take the radiator off. Use a pry bar or a screw driver to turn the eccentric. Larry

White 2-150

IP: 69.54.120.11 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 03:02:19 PM by Ryan Wilhelm

3-point won't go down only stays in up position even when the lever is in the down position.

Re(1): White 2-150

IP: 75.105.44.87 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 10:45:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing there is something broken in the control linkage inside the tractor. You may have to take the top off of the hydraulic unit to get at it. Larry

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