550 oil filter

IP: 69.172.88.51 Posted on October 31, 2012 at 03:53:02 PM by Rob E.

I have an Oliver 550 gas that doesn't seem to be putting any oil through the oil filter. I only noticed it one day when it had been running and was up to operating temperature, and the filter was still cold. I shut it off and removed the filter to inspect it and it was dry and as clean as the day I put it on new. The engine appears to be getting lube and it is running about 18 psi on the oil pressure gauge. Any advice?

Re(1): 550 oil filter

IP: 97.73.64.156 Posted on October 31, 2012 at 04:16:30 PM by larry from maryland

The restrictor hole in the filter is plugged.You will need to remove the tube that sticks up into the filer and a washer with a small hole is under there that is plugged.You may have to remove the whole base and turn upside down to clean it good.Use locktight or something when putting the tube back.

Re(2): 550 oil filter

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on November 1, 2012 at 08:12:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Take an air hose and blow air back through the inlet tube and that should do it. Larry

Re(3): 550 oil filter

IP: 69.172.88.51 Posted on November 6, 2012 at 10:40:18 AM by Rob E.

Thanks Larry. It is getting oil in to the filter again. Everything is in place properly, but I only have about 5 psi of oil pressure since I cleaned out the filter base. Is it time for an oil pump?

Re(4): 550 oil filter

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on November 8, 2012 at 06:38:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Not necessarily. The pressure regulating valve on the right front corner of your engine block may be stuck open. It has a 13/16 plug that you should unscrew. It has a spring and a plunger in there. Just remove the spring and take a long slim screwdriver and push in on the plunger. A shot of W-D 40 might be in order also. Then, reassemble and start your engine and see what it has. Larry

Oliver 1265 Project

IP: 75.208.34.150 Posted on October 30, 2012 at 10:52:23 PM by David Thomas

I bought a 1265 about a year ago and have been trying to get it running. I tried pull start with the truck and it almost wants to start but not quite then after about 1 minute of stop and go pull start its just turning the engine with no help from engine. I haven't worked on diesels too much and wanted to know where to start. Its a 1974

Re(1): Oliver 1265 Project

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on October 31, 2012 at 07:26:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I really don't have much to suggest. Make sure it can get air into the engine (plugged air filter). Make sure it is getting lean fuel into the engine (check the injection pump). Possibly you should have a qualified mechanic look at it, if you can't get it going. Larry

pilot relief valve?

IP: 204.248.124.171 Posted on October 28, 2012 at 09:23:28 AM by Brett1655

I keep shattering mount bolts for demand type diverter valve and purging the hydraulic system. Is this likely a full system over pressure problem- the pilot relief valve? Other ideas? Where would one be available? I don't have quick access to a pressure gage. 1971 1655 gas

Re(1): pilot relief valve?

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on October 29, 2012 at 07:56:05 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, you have to get a pressure gauge so that you know the problem you have. You really shouldn't have more than 2000 lbs. of pressure. I don't quite understand your statement about shattering mount bolts. You can get pressure gauges at your Farm Supply Store or an Automotive supply store. I need a better explanation of your problem. Larry

Re(2): pilot relief valve?

IP: 97.73.64.154 Posted on October 29, 2012 at 08:26:16 AM by larry from maryland

The 1655 had problems with the new style relief valves they had. It would be worth the effort to remove the large plug on the front of the unit, this is the valve and see if its stuck/bad screen etc.lots of guys replace them with the old style valve because the new ones cause problems. You should be able to here the relief working if you pull a remote lever with nowhere for the oil to go and engine running fast.

Re(3): pilot relief valve?

IP: 69.66.105.169 Posted on October 29, 2012 at 08:53:08 AM by Brett1655

The demand type steering diverter valve has parted from the case three times, shattering the mount bolts (and the valve casting its self). I have not put any gage on as yet, but I just figured out that the valve is likely a problem. The screen behind the plug has blown through with many flecks of steel plugging it. I can't see how to determing if the valve is defective. Is there any part of the piece its self that moves? The spring appears OK. Where is any replacement valve available? Does Agco have such a thing?

Re(4): pilot relief valve?

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 30, 2012 at 07:54:11 AM by Larry Harsin

You should contact Deitering Bros Impl. and ask for Tim. 888-545-2314. Larry

Re(5): pilot relief valve?

IP: 69.66.105.169 Posted on October 30, 2012 at 09:25:55 AM by Brett1655

So the pilot valve is siezed, providing potentially 5,000 PSI to demand valve, blowing it off the Olly. Repair is replace with (used)old style relief valve. Rework the demand relief valve. Thanks to you and Tim as you recommended, I am on my way to the tractor junkyard for an old style valve.

2-110 flywheel splined hub?

IP: 207.32.8.46 Posted on October 25, 2012 at 04:15:21 PM by rosco

I had the 2-110 in the shop for a new clutch & flywheel resurfaced. when I got tractor back, within 1 hour of run time using the pto on a stalk cutter, the bolts holding the splined hub to the flywheel sheared off and l lost all hydraulic and pto. had to have torn down again and new hub and shaft. old hub and shaft were worn but not stripped out. what caused this and how do I keep it from happening again?

Re(1): 2-110 flywheel splined hub?

IP: 97.73.64.149 Posted on October 25, 2012 at 07:37:49 PM by larry from maryland

Well if the parts in the rear of the tractor are not put in correctly the long shaft can slip to the rear and come out of the hub.Hopefully he found his mistake the next time he took it apart and charged you for new parts not needed.

Re(2): 2-110 flywheel splined hub?

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on October 27, 2012 at 11:25:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say that the splines in the hub were worn and should have been replaced at that time. Larry

Pinion shaft nut

IP: 174.57.197.18 Posted on October 24, 2012 at 08:59:11 PM by David

We have an oliver 550 backhoe loader, and had some shifting issues.I noticed the pinion shaft was lose back towards the ring gear, the bearing race looks fine so I dont believe the play is from the wear of the bearings, I can clearly see the bearings are not sitting tightly against the race as if it needs to be drawn in more, is there a pinion nut on the end of the shaft I can tighten to put the proper preload on the bearings? there is some slight damage to the heel edge of the ring gear where parts of the edges are broken off. Im wondering if the pinion nut has become lose and is allowing the pinion shaft to travel back int the ring gear to deep in revers or while coating and chewing up the gears. Is there a way to tighten the nut on the shaft i cant seem to find one. Thanks

Re(1): Pinion shaft nut

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on October 27, 2012 at 11:22:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You are going to have to get a Shop Manual. You are going to have to split the tractor. There are 2 spanner nuts on the end of the bevel pinion shaft and I think you are going to have to take the gear out to get to those nuts. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. Larry

550 Front Crank Seal

IP: 70.41.132.18 Posted on October 24, 2012 at 07:30:33 PM by Don K.

I am trying to address a front crankshaft oil seal leak on my 550 Oliver tractor SN#123203-519. Are there any aftermarket options or OEM updates to the cork style front crankshaft seal? If not, are there any installation tips you can give me when using the cork style seal to insure long leak free life? IÕm winging this without a service manual.

Re(1): 550 Front Crank Seal

IP: 97.73.64.149 Posted on October 25, 2012 at 07:49:43 PM by larry from maryland

Make sure the cork slides easly over the pully,so it will seal on the cover and not just get stuck ,without touching the cover.If you change the front cover you can put a lip type seal in there.

Re(2): 550 Front Crank Seal

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on October 27, 2012 at 11:15:00 PM by Larry Harsin

You could put a new style lip seal in there, but it would take a different cover and a different crankshaft pulley. Larry

1600 BRAKES

IP: 74.4.43.198 Posted on October 24, 2012 at 08:44:58 AM by BOBBY

THE BRAKES ARE STUCK ON ONE SIDE OF MY 1600. IS IT CORRECT THAT THE BRAKES ARE EXTERNAL AND WOULD YOU HAVE ANY IDEAS AS TO WHAT COULD BE WRONG? ALL INFO IS A HELP.

Re(1): 1600 BRAKES

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 27, 2012 at 11:12:44 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably all you have to do is take them apart and clean them up. If there is any damage inside, you will find it. I have parts if you need them. 712-362-2966. Larry

2-70diesel

IP: 72.23.83.218 Posted on October 22, 2012 at 06:03:38 PM by Brian

What should be the valve lash for a 2-70 white diesel I have two manual saying different numbers right now I have them all set at .029" thank you for the help

Re(1): 2-70diesel

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 23, 2012 at 07:05:48 AM by Larry Harsin

That setting is fine. Larry

1600 Oil

IP: 76.14.229.240 Posted on October 20, 2012 at 02:45:13 PM by Roger

I have an Oliver 1600 Diesel. I am new to farming and have no idea of how to properly give maintenance to it, currently it is in need of oil (need to add) in one of the places it requires oil. As far as I can tell it seems that there are 3 or 4 places where you can add oil, but i do not know which type of oil to use and where it goes.I would really appreciate your help.

I saw a post on the same tractor model but it is gas not diesel which contains info pertaining to the oil but i do not know if you can use the same type for gas and diesel. Once gain i would really appreciate any help you can give me.

Re(1): 1600 Oil

IP: 76.208.10.134 Posted on October 21, 2012 at 07:38:21 AM by 90%ret'd

Contact Floyd Co Museum and order an operator's manual. Floydcountymuseum.org , then you will have all the info.

Re(2): 1600 Oil

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 22, 2012 at 09:08:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes!!! You really need an Operator's Manual! I would use 15-40 diesel grade oil in the engine. Type A or Mercon ATF fluid in the hydra-power below the fuel tank. Med. grade non-foaming hydraulic oil in the hydraulic system. This has a dipstick in front of the seat bracket between you legs. The transmission differential uses 80-90 gear lube. The check point for this is back of the right rear axle on the rear main frame. It is a 3/8" pipe plug that points out towards the wheel. Larry

231 Waukesha cam bearings

IP: 216.25.247.245 Posted on October 19, 2012 at 04:56:55 PM by C.welch

How many journals take a bearing?

Re(1): 231 Waukesha cam bearings

IP: 76.208.10.134 Posted on October 21, 2012 at 07:43:16 AM by 90%ret'd

If I recall correctly, only the front "behind the cam gear" journal has a replaceable bushing.

Re(2): 231 Waukesha cam bearings

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on October 22, 2012 at 09:02:47 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Only the front one. Larry

Old stlyle 88

IP: 75.245.68.239 Posted on October 18, 2012 at 10:34:32 PM by Tom

Is the tin work the same between a row crop and a standard old style 88?

Re(1): Old stlyle 88

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on October 19, 2012 at 07:37:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is.

Oliver 1850 3 pt lift lever repair

IP: 216.249.76.114 Posted on October 15, 2012 at 08:28:43 AM by Ron Hardesty

I have a 1965 Oliver 1850 Diesel. The 3pt hitch control lever will not stay where I set it at. It will continue to creep back while in operation cacing the implement to riae. In looking through my parts manuel it appears that I Pobably need to replace a friction washer and spring. My question is do you agree with this diagnosis. Also how hard of a repair is this and how do you go about taking it apart to do this. The I & T shop manuel I have does not go onto much detail. it also aludes to removing the Hydra - Lectric Control unit. This sounds rather involved and alittel deep for a novice mechanic such as my self. Please advise.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 3 pt lift lever repair

IP: 97.73.64.156 Posted on October 15, 2012 at 11:20:50 AM by larry from maryland

The quick non aproved fix is cut yourself a piece of rubber from an old inner tube and use 2 screwdrivers to pry back the washer and spring. Then just slip it in there without removeing anything.Use it that way untill you need to remove all the other parts to fix something else.Sometimes you need to add a drop of glue to ONE side of the rubber.

1755 Oil in radiator

IP: 199.241.240.214 Posted on October 9, 2012 at 08:26:01 AM by abd

i have a 1755 w/310 diesel engine & oil is getting into the water - have pulled engine, & removed head - head gasket appears to be intact w/o any leakage trails & the rocker arm hollow supply bolt did not appear to have a leakage problem either form the fittings on top or the threads in the block - any thoughts??

Re(1): 1755 oil in radiator

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on October 11, 2012 at 06:45:03 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is getting oil in the radiator, oil is probably getting forced up by the O rings on the bottom of the sleeves. Larry

Re(2): 1755 oil in radiator

IP: 209.50.30.21 Posted on October 30, 2012 at 10:37:44 PM by B A Star

Think about pressure differences. I doubt that oil that is in the crankcase with a vent has enough pressure to be forced into the cooling system. More than likely you have sleeves that have become pourous from electrolis. High pressure in the cylinder has forced oil into the cooling system. I will bet the only way you can fix the problem is to replace the sleeve and piston sets. This is common in wet sleeve engines of all makes.

231 engine

IP: 216.25.247.245 Posted on October 8, 2012 at 11:32:09 PM by C.welch

I need torque specs rod main head

Re(1): 231 engine

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on October 10, 2012 at 07:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The mains and the head is 100 lbs. The rods is 45 lbs. Larry

Super 55

IP: 69.130.230.66 Posted on October 7, 2012 at 11:33:58 AM by Mark H. Welch

We have recently become owners of a well-used and neglected, but stout Oliver Super 55 4 cylinder gas tractor. It ran initially, but now problems are cropping up (no surprise). First, the factory id plate says: Specification Number 15 0005, Serial Number 30 733 518. I can find no reference to a "Specification Number", and the serial number does not appear to correspond to any year range. Can you help me identify what year our tractor actually is? Second, after I replaced the existing battery (65-75 size series, 12v) and both cables, it spun like a top and started immediately. Later, my son added some fuel, and tried to start it. There was a soft "pop" enough to flip the rain cap on the exhaust, and then nothing. Any ideas? You site is very well done, and is on my favorites list.

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 10, 2012 at 07:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Your S55 was built in 1955. I'm not sure what happened. If you have fuel going into the motor and there is spark at the spark plugs, it should run. Larry

Re(2): Super 55

IP: 98.168.201.219 Posted on October 10, 2012 at 07:32:40 PM by Larry K

Since you replaced the battery and the cables, did you get the correct polarity on the battery? Do you have an alternator or a generator? The coil polarity is also important. Is your coil designed for 12 volt or do you need a resister in the circuit? My 550 with a generator has a positive ground system, but my Super 55 that I changed to an Alternator has a negative ground. I have to constantly remind myself of the differences. The owner's manual has a good wiring diagram, when you make changes in voltage or charging systems, you need to address some issues.

Oliver 88 engines

IP: 216.248.70.99 Posted on October 5, 2012 at 12:49:57 PM by Chad

Do all Oliver 88 engines have the date stamped in the block? Is it possible some would not?

Re(1): Oliver 88 engines

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on October 6, 2012 at 07:43:22 AM by Larry Harsin

The Build Date is actually stamped on the cylinder head up where the thermostat hooks on. This is on all 88's. Larry

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