1650 hydraulic leak

IP: 68.69.78.54 Posted on October 31, 2013 at 06:45:14 PM by Justin Hanks

Hi Larry, I recently inheirited my grandpa's 1650 #208988452. Steering and 3 point do not work. Steering Works if oil is added to the hyd res, but it runs out about as fast as you add it. It seems to run out along the shaft near the chain couple. After looking at the service manual and reading some posts I'm thinking the seal on the hyd pump or the pump itself. Is there another seal between the chain couple and hyd res that may need replaced? I can't seem to find anything on the final drive or transmission in the service manual I ordered. Any info would be great. Thanks, Justin

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic leak

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on November 4, 2013 at 06:37:23 AM by Larry Harsin

From what you say, I think the seal on the hydraulic pump is bad. The transmission is so full of oil it is running out of the input shaft. You will have to replace the pump. For the part, call Tom at O'brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 70 overhaul

IP: 162.58.82.136 Posted on October 30, 2013 at 07:54:13 AM by Clay McNaughton

I posted you regarding some issues with low oil pressure on an Oliver 70. After checking some items, you have advised me that it will need a new crank and bearings, and cam bearings to correct the problem. I have decided to make this a winter project. My question is, where can I find the parts to replace the bearings? And can I have the crank and cam turned down by someone like Arnold Motors? Do you have parts that I can purchase? Any help on this would be well appreciated! Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Oliver 70 overhaul

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 30, 2013 at 08:55:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I have some bearings, but you will have to get the crank ground before you know what size you need. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. about cam bearing and engine bearings. 800-320-6224. Larry

Difference in models

IP: 24.111.165.250 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 11:35:50 PM by jim

what is the difference (besides engine) between 1800 1850 and 1855's, mainy interested in transmission/power shift and hydraulic system,thanks

Re(1): Difference in models

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 30, 2013 at 08:51:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1800 & 1850 are open center systems and the 1855 is a closed center system. All 3 tractors use the same basic designs with improvements as the years went by. Larry

1550 clutch housing

IP: 184.153.195.78 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 08:26:23 PM by Charles Limmer

I've got a 1550 diesel with HPD. The upper 'ears' on the clutch housing are broken off. Two questions; when I put this thing back together what can I do to prevent this happening again, and where can I find a replacement housing?

Re(1): 1550 clutch housing

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 30, 2013 at 08:49:33 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have the old ears, I'd take them and have them welded back on. To over come this problem, you will have to drill a hole in the engine frame, below the hydra power and install a jack screw to support the hydra power. Larry

1850 pto stub

IP: 108.2.194.3 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 06:38:39 PM by Ed Bachman

I have a question. On a oliver 1850 pto stub I was experiencing gear oil leaking through the pto stub bearing. I purchased a new bearing had it pressed on the shaft, new o-ring for the od of the bearing, put it together, and it still leaks through the bearing. I then took it apart and quizzed my Bearing dealer about it, and he said it is a sealed bearing and that the old bearing may have had a leather seal, and this one has a rubber seal and their made to be a sealed bearing but not necessarily to hold oil back. I bought a new o-ring again for the od put it all back together filled the rear back up with oil, and am experiencing oil leaking through the bearing not at the outside of the bearing. My question is, is there supposed to be oil in the cavity behind the bearing that the bearing is supposed to hold back, or do I have a different problem internally. Or can you recommend a bearing to purchase to put on the pto stub that will retain the oil behind the bearing. Thank you for your help.

Re(1): 1850 pto stub

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 30, 2013 at 08:45:55 AM by Larry Harsin

There isn't supposed to be oil in there, but that is a common ailment. To rectify it you have to remove the engine and put in new seals etc. To me it isn't worth all of the work. It is a big job. I wouldn't worry about it. Larry

oliver 1750

IP: 108.16.84.36 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 01:49:40 AM by walt wilson

I need to replace oil pan gaskets and main seals. do you have any helpful suggestions? thanks walt

Re(1): oliver 1750

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 07:28:17 AM by Larry Harsin

To do all of that, you have to pull the engine out of the tractor. To do the oil pan you can leave the engine in the tractor. But to do the rear main seal, you'll have to remove the engine from the tractor. Larry

Row Crop 88 Serial Number Question

IP: 187.108.150.66 Posted on October 25, 2013 at 04:31:40 AM by Bill Morando

I have tried to find the exact meaning of the serial number of my Dad's Oliver Row Crop 88. It has a wide front end and from initial research it appears to be a 1949 Model. But, I am not sure what the rest of the serial number means. Can you please help? The serial Number is: 127630C88FB. I am not sure what the C88FB means. I believe the "B" means a wide front end, but the rest I am at a loss. Any help would be great. I am going to try to restore it and want to know what exactly I am starting with. Thanks a lot for your help.

Re(1): Row Crop 88 Serial Number Question

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 28, 2013 at 07:33:04 AM by Larry Harsin

What you say could be correct. I have always been told that the numbers following the serial number told about the things put into the transmission. Check with the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099 or email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Oliver 1855

IP: 69.77.235.203 Posted on October 22, 2013 at 03:58:54 PM by Tony Meeder

I have an Oliver 1855 and have a vibration in the pressure relief valve stack below the pump. I have set the pressure relief valve and the compensator valve to what they need to be at according to an IT manual. So it is not pounding associated to that. The only way I can stop the noise is to back the compensator valve all the way out and the vibration begins to go away around 50-100 psi. Is this normal and the way the tractor should run?

Re(1): Oliver 1855

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 23, 2013 at 07:57:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I really can't give you an opinion on that. Call your AGCO Dealer. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1855

IP: 208.86.59.120 Posted on November 14, 2013 at 10:44:18 PM by Ross

Sometimes dirt builds up in the compensator valve and causes noise. On my 1855, I took the screw all the way out and blew some air in there to make sure it was clean. The farther back the screw is the less noise it will make, but it will also not have as much pressure. The biggest thing, though, to cause noise, seems to be if the system is sucking air in somewhere...check all hoses and connections...I wouldn't worry too much about the vibration unless the system is getting hot.

1755 Leaking near chain coupler

IP: 98.31.36.166 Posted on October 22, 2013 at 01:02:37 PM by Dave

I'm working on a 1755. it has a pretty bad leak near the chain coupler. it's leaking automatic transmission fluid very quickly. i believe its leaking from the hydropower drive. From asking other guys with issues with this , there is a seal on the input of the hydro power drive that leaks. From what i understand the engine has to be pulled and the transmission. wanted to get an experts opinion on it. also the hydraulic transfer pump is leaking, haven't been able to find any seal kits for it. thanks dave

Re(1): 1755 Leaking near chain coupler

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 23, 2013 at 07:55:57 AM by Larry Harsin

O'Brien Co. Impl. should have the parts. 800-320-6224. Yes, the engine with the hydraul will have to be pulled before you can repair it. Larry

StanHoist

IP: 70.194.1.86 Posted on October 21, 2013 at 12:06:54 PM by Jerry Shannon

Larry, Can you tell me if Stan Hoist was ever affiliated with Oliver at any time? I have a StanHoist chisel plow that says StanHoist on it. It is a 10 point and came with my Oliver when I purchased it. Looks very beefy. Has new points, and another set of new points. Was seeing if it hs any value. Thank you.

Re(1): StanHoist

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 22, 2013 at 09:07:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Stan-Hoist and Bush-Hog went together and then they affiliated with AGCO. I'm not sure if they are still affiliated or not. I owned a Stan-Hoist chisel plow years ago and it was a good machine. I havn't seen any sell lately, so I'm not up on the value of them. Larry

Oliver 1955 Fuel Issue

IP: 75.103.136.156 Posted on October 19, 2013 at 05:03:54 PM by Nathan Nunaley

We have an early 1970's Oliver 1955 tractor. Just a couple days ago, we started having issues with the engine losing RPM's/power, with the throttle full-open. This can happen with under power (pulling a John-Deere 1508 mower), or just sitting idle, with no load at all. The engine speed will slowly decrease from 2,400 rpm down to below 1,000 rpm over a couple of minutes, and will then eventually die. We can immediately restart the tractor, and throttle right back to 2,400 rpm. We might then be able to engage the PTO and mow for thirty minutes, or maybe just 50 yards, it's not really consistent. The only consistent thing is, after the engine dies, it will start right back up, and can be revved up to full throttle. Does this sound like a fuel issue, or something else? We've changed the fuel filter, and have not seen any evidence that there is air in the system.

Re(1): Oliver 1955 Fuel Issue

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 22, 2013 at 09:03:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I think there is something in the fuel system that is affecting it. I'd make sure there is good flow of fuel out of the fuel tank. If that checks o.k., I would make sure the fitting on top of the pump that goes to the bleed lines isn't plugged and can vent. If it doesn't vent, this is exactly how your tractor will act. If you find the vent is plugged with foreign material, you should talk to the person at your pump shop. Foreign material plugging this fitting can be a sign of a governor ring that is breaking up. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1955 Fuel Issue

IP: 75.103.136.156 Posted on October 25, 2013 at 04:56:33 PM by Nathan L. Nunaley

I removed the diesel fuel return tubing and fitting(s) from the top of the Roosa-Masters fuel pump. Fuel was running freely from the fuel tank all the way through the return line. I was a bit confused by the hex fitting that screws directly into the fuel pump. I did not initially realize that this fitting was actually a check valve, so I thought something was stuck inside the fitting, although it was clear/translucent. Once I returned home, I did a Google search on Roosa-Master pumps and ran across a forum with the following advice; "Do like the Doc said, but remove the return fitting check valve, and replace it with a standard fitting. If you look, it has a little glass ball in it. This check valve is not necessary if pump is mounted horizontally, but if used on a deere with a vertical pump mounting I believ it is. I have 2 pieces of equipment I did this trick to, and both been running fine for years." I can just barely move the glass ball inside the fitting, perhaps 1/8" upwards. It appears to be spring-loaded downwards, towards the pump. Would you consider it sound advice to replace this check valve fitting with a standard fitting, or remove the glass ball from this fitting? I'm not so certain that this check valve was passing flow before I started poking around inside it. Also, during this investigation, the rubber tee on top of the first fuel injector cracked. I need to order a replacement rubber tee, or perhaps a full set of six. Could you tell me what the part number is? I'm going to order a part manual from Yesterday's Tractors, but probably won't get it for several days. Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Re(3): Oliver 1955 Fuel Issue

IP: 69.68.210.36 Posted on November 13, 2013 at 11:35:53 AM by Cole J.

We've had a very similar issue with a 1755. It ended up being the, (what we called "secondary fuel pump"). Its on the "passenger side" of the tractor. Bolts straight the block. Some tractors have them and some do not. If yours has it, you might check that.

Re(3): Oliver 1955 Fuel Issue

IP: 68.21.87.4 Posted on November 14, 2013 at 09:48:21 AM by Roy Wrightsman

The part number for the t boot is 163670A. you can get them from ag parts first. I have the same issue with a 1755. We took the pump off this fall for a bad pilot tube (leaking fuel into oil). It was off and on several times (rolled seal, etc). Since the next to last time, we have had the same issue with it, except ours has been more losing power but would recover usually without dying. I will check this fitting you are talking about. Everything after the fitting on mine is clear and you can easily blow through it. We changed the fuel filter as well, and drained probably 5 gallons of fuel through to the pump with no interruptions in the flow.

1750 oliver carb

IP: 107.202.176.171 Posted on October 18, 2013 at 10:15:31 AM by greg

Good morning! I have a question about converting a carb on a 1750 oliver. it currently has the marvel schebler carb on it, and i have nothing but problems with it. is there a fairy cheap way to convert to a better carb? if so what kind, and where would i find one. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1750 oliver carb

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 22, 2013 at 09:28:55 AM by Larry Harsin

No. If you want to convert to a Zenith, you will spend at least $700. I would attempt to get the Marvel Sheblar repaired. Larry

550 tires and rims

IP: 72.78.200.98 Posted on October 17, 2013 at 05:46:35 PM by Terry

Hi Larry. My Oliver 550 has 13.6x26 tires that are worn out on 12 inch wide rims. I have an excellent pair of 14.9x26 tires that are for 13 inch rims. Will it work to put these tires on my 12 inch rims? Thanks so much for your advice.

Re(1): 550 tires and rims

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 18, 2013 at 08:11:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I think so. I'd try it anyway. See if you can make it work. Larry

Oliver 60 starter

IP: 98.250.227.21 Posted on October 17, 2013 at 02:14:00 PM by Greg Elston

My grandfather is giving me his 1940? Oliver 60 row crop. His father bought it brand new. It needs a starter. What is interchangeable?

Re(1): Oliver 60 starter

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 18, 2013 at 08:10:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of anything that interchanges with it. Call Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Oliver 70 oil pressure

IP: 75.170.196.70 Posted on October 16, 2013 at 08:03:34 AM by Clay McNaughton

I put a message on here a few weeks ago referencing low oil pressure on an Oliver 70. I also mentioned that the oil filter wasn't getting any oil through it. I did as you indicated and removed the oil feed lines to the filter and found a restriction device of some sort in the feed line and I removed it. This fixed the oil issue for the filter and it works fine now. I also put a new oil gauge in the tractor and it has great oil pressure when first started. However, after it is completely warmed up, the oil pressure is low. If you run it about 1/3 throttle or more, it will stay in the green range on the gauge. If you idle it down, it goes about halfway into the red range. What is your opinion on this? Will this need more attention or is it sufficient? Thanks in advance for any advise on this. Thanks Larry!

Re(1): Oliver 70 oil pressure

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 17, 2013 at 08:16:47 AM by Larry Harsin Crankshaft bearings and camshaft bearings are usually the culprits. You need to replace the crankshaft and bearings. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 oil pressure

IP: 108.161.59.240 Posted on October 23, 2013 at 06:49:21 PM by Clay McNaughton

Where's the best place to get a crank and bearings? I didn't see any advertised on Korves website. I assume you have these items? What are we looking at for cost? Would it be worth having the valves ground since I have to do the cam and crank? Thanks Larry!

1855 and a 566 plow

IP: 70.194.2.172 Posted on October 14, 2013 at 01:14:47 PM by Jerry Shannon

Hello Larry. Will my 1855 pull a Oliver model 566 6 bottom plow? My engine has been rebuilt a few years ago and runs great. Thank you.

Re(1): 1855 and a 566 plow

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 16, 2013 at 07:33:45 AM by Larry Harsin

It probably will under most conditions. In our area it would best pull a 5 bottom, but in your area it might pull 6 just fine. Larry

Re(2): 1855 and a 566 plow

IP: 208.86.59.120 Posted on November 14, 2013 at 10:21:25 PM by Ross

I have an 1855 and 566 6 bottom plow I use every year. It pulls fine in 3rd gear direct drive. We have heavy clay soils. Later on in the season, or if it's very dry, you may have to shift down, but if your plow is adjusted correctly, it should work.

Oliver 1850

IP: 173.245.221.224 Posted on October 12, 2013 at 04:53:33 PM by Rod

Looking at buying an Oliver 1850 with a Farmhand F-11 loader. I'm needing to lift at least 2000# to 2500#; will this combo do it? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 14, 2013 at 08:38:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I think so. Yes. Larry

1650 oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 206.72.22.180 Posted on October 11, 2013 at 05:44:48 PM by jesse

hi larry I recently replaced the hydraulic pump in my 1650 put it all back together and the engine would not turn over so I took the top cover loose and barred the engine over reassembled everything and the tractor works fine but there is a different noise then I have heard before almost like a ticking sound any Ideas would be great trying to figure out weather I should tear it back apart of just live with the different sound

Re(1): 1650 oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 12, 2013 at 08:40:01 AM by Larry Harsin

This isn't uncommon in a 1650. I believe I would just live with it. It might go away and it might not. Larry

Re(2): 1650 oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 206.72.22.180 Posted on October 12, 2013 at 08:59:06 AM by jesse

Do you think its possible I screwed something up when the engine wouldn't turn my thought is that the back lash in the gears is just a little more than it was so its a little noisier as a result I thought it was weird it locked up only thing I can think is the gear teeth were sitting on top of one another and when I pried it up and barred the engine it fell into place but I will just run it a while I guess

Re(3): 1650 oliver hydraulic pump

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 14, 2013 at 08:37:47 AM by Larry Harsin

What you are describing is probably what happened. Larry

1800

IP: 198.111.39.21 Posted on October 10, 2013 at 10:42:38 AM by Thomas S. Vukonich

I recently bought a 1800a sn#110880. When purchased all fluids were fresh and clean. I had run/worked her brush hogging for about an hour and maybe 30 minutes using hydraulics to pull fence posts. While pulling posts I noticed a white milky substance dripping out of the governor. I shut her down and checked the engine oil (mildly milky). I didn't run the tractor after that. 10 days later I went to test compression. I didn't warm it up because I was fearful of running with compromised oil. The oil looked less milky but was now much darker than it had been before. When I checked compression the engine was cold and all plugs were in except the one being tested. results were, cylinder #1-175lbs #2-175lbs #3-170 #4-170 #5-170 #6-165. Questions are 1. Could there be a leak other than at the head gasket? If so what are the likely causes? 2. If this repair calls for an engine rebuild would it be worth considering repowering with a newer engine? 3. If repowering with a newer engine what other engines are compatible? Say a 1750, 1755 or 1800 b/c? I'm a little lost as to what the next move should be. Any suggestions would be of great help. Also, I should mention. The tractor NEVER sputtered, skipped, seemed to loose power or otherwise faltered. Too, there was never any smoke in the exhaust.

Re(2): 1800

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 11, 2013 at 07:13:26 AM by Larry Harsin

There's all kinds of possibilities. The easiest option would be an 1800 B or C engine. Larry

Re(3): 1800

IP: 198.111.39.21 Posted on October 11, 2013 at 07:42:18 AM by Thomas S. Vukonich

I understand that my tractor has a 265" Waukesha engine. Would there be any problems Getting an overhaul kit to "upgrade" her to a 283"?

Re(4): 1800

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 11, 2013 at 09:43:43 PM by Larry Harsin

The 265 is hard to get bearings for. I think it would go to a 283 o.k. Larry Re(5): 1800

IP: 70.194.6.124 Posted on October 12, 2013 at 01:00:34 PM by Thomas Vukonich

Is the 265 in my 1800a different from a 265in a 1650 or 1655?

Re(6): 1800

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 14, 2013 at 08:36:25 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is a different family of engines. Larry

1365 Sudden loss of Oil Pressure

IP: 69.71.3.100 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 08:40:54 PM by Jim Glenn

This morning my 1365 suddenly lost all oil pressure while moving logs. I towed it to the shop, dropped the oil pan, and found a bolt that looks to be about an 8mm diameter, 60 or 70mm long laying in the bottom of the pan. I pulled the oil pump and it was in perfect shape. Rocker arm looks good. Where did it come from?

Re(1): 1365 Sudden loss of Oil Pressure

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 9, 2013 at 07:21:35 AM by Larry Harsin

That's a good question! You'll have to investigate and figure it out. Larry

1650

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 01:27:40 PM by robert lapage

Hi Larry. Afew weeks ago I was asking about our 1650 stalling when in gear. You said to look at the input shaft. We had a mechanic come and look and he thinks it is one gear locking on it. How does the shaft come out. the book said to drive it out the front. do we have to slip the tractor and or remove engine? The coupling sprocket will not come off. thanks

Re(1): 1650

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 9, 2013 at 07:19:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Remove the engine and the drive assembly. Larry

Oliver Diesel Oil

IP: 208.126.45.17 Posted on October 7, 2013 at 01:03:16 PM by Tony

Greeting, I recently picked up an Oliver 2150 FWA from Minnesota. I am changing all of the oils and I am curious what you recommend for engine oil. I'm sure the manual calls for strait 30 but we have a lot of great oils these days. Nonetheless, I wanted the opinion of an seasoned Oliver man before I stray away from specs. My service manual should be in soon. Thanks for your reply!

Re(1): Oliver Diesel Oil

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:22:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I like to use 15-40 diesel oil in the engines now days. A good looking tractor! Larry

power steering not working

IP: 70.215.11.156 Posted on October 6, 2013 at 09:06:56 PM by John Taylor

I have a 1550 and I was driving along in the tractor and the steering stopped working I checked the hydraulic fluid going to the steering column and there was plenty of hydraulic fluidI check the hydraulic pump to the columnI also check the two lines going to the front end and there was only oil coming out of them when I turn the steering wheelI jackedthe front end off the ground and the tires move freelywhat could be the problem?

Re(1): power steering not working

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:20:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The flow divider may have a stuck regulator spool. That's the big spool. Speed the engine up to about 2/3 throttle and wiggle your remote levers. If this does not do it, you'll have to take the flow-divider apart. Larry

Oliver 80 industrial Hydraulic

IP: 71.229.238.214 Posted on October 6, 2013 at 07:57:34 PM by Robert

I have a 1947 Oliver 80 industrial with a Lull loader. the hydraulic pump has spun a broken input shaft is there a replacement pump for this model

Re(1): Oliver 80 industrial Hydraulic

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:17:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any idea. I would try to contact Lull. Larry

Oliver 770 strange grinding

IP: 67.81.113.52 Posted on October 5, 2013 at 10:56:31 PM by William

I changed the throw out bearing for a friend he heard noise in the housing. Long story short I split it, found parts from an old starter getting thrown around. Clutch was fine, changed the throw out bearing. Put it all back together. When I pushed the pedal all the way down I could hear a slight grinding noise, messed around with the clutch adjustment and the noise went away. Drove it for two weeks no problem but now randomly I can't seem to pin point why but you can hear something in the transmission sounds like a gear slipping and trying to grab. Happens while in gear and in neutral. All the gears work, runs fine I'm not sure what could be causing the noise and why it would be only once in awhile. It's loud enough to hear over the motor. The noise the best I could locate was under the hydraulic system in the front of the transmission. Slightly behind the oil fill cap. Any ideas I would appreciate it.

Re(1): Oliver 770 strange grinding

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:15:58 AM by Larry Harsin You could have a bad bearing on the input shaft in the transmission. Larry

2 speed hydro

IP: 184.20.18.187 Posted on October 5, 2013 at 08:50:09 AM by corre k

Larry my two speed hydro started popping out of gear when I open the motor up at low rpm it stays in but as soon as I give it some rpm it shifts out what you think I got going out fluid is at correct level and filter was changed this spring

Re(1): 2 speed hydro

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:14:04 AM by Larry Harsin

From the sounds of things, I would say your low-range sprgue clutch is letting go. Larry

Re(2): 2 speed hydro

IP: 184.20.18.187 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:33:22 AM by corre k I take it has to come out for repair again would I be better to look for a three speed I don't put a lot of hours on it many baling and brush cutting the lever will shift its shelf when I open the throttle Thanks for help

Re(3): 2 speed hydro

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 14, 2013 at 08:40:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I think I would try to repair what you have. Larry

550 starts and stalls

IP: 71.50.212.239 Posted on October 4, 2013 at 05:23:36 PM by Keifer Boggess

Have an Oliver 550 gas tractor that fires up runs smooth at idle but give it gas and it sputters and stalls. Just had carb rebuilt, checked all fuel and air lines. New plugs, plug wires, points, rotor, dist cap, timing. Compression is 150,150,120,150. Nothing has changed what it is doing.

Re(1): 550 starts and stalls

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 5, 2013 at 08:06:46 AM by Larry Harsin

You may not be getting good spark from the ignition switch. I'd try hot wiring it from the starter terminal to the coil, giving it a 12 volt shot. See if that makes a difference. Larry

Re(2): 550 starts and stalls

IP: 71.50.212.239 Posted on October 6, 2013 at 09:31:44 AM by Keifer

Thanks for the response. We aren't having a problem starting it. The tractor begins stalling out after we accelerate it. I guess I don't understand how hot wiring is going to help on acceleration. I would remove the jumper to the battery after it starts wouldn't I. Thank you.

Re(3): 550 starts and stalls

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 8, 2013 at 09:11:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yeah, but I'd leave the jumper on there long enough to diagnose the problem. If it works o.k. with the jumper wire on there, that will show you where the problem is. I didn't mean just to help start the tractor. If there is enough spark etc. Larry

Re(4): 550 starts and stalls

IP: 71.50.212.239 Posted on October 11, 2013 at 03:47:04 PM by Keifer boggess

Ok, thanks, we will give that a try.

1650 diesel

IP: 166.182.3.18 Posted on October 2, 2013 at 08:18:58 PM by Luke Whitacre

Hi Larry, hoping you can help me. I need a replacement final fuel filter the book says 163 953-AS. I have a filter that fits but I cant get the system to prime. I get fuel out of both filter bleeders but cant get any at the pump. I think I have the wrong filter, any suggestions? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 3, 2013 at 06:56:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If you think you have the wrong filter, take it back and ask the person you bought it from. After getting the filter bled, go onto the other side and make sure there is fuel where it goes into the pump. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel

IP: 166.182.3.181 Posted on October 3, 2013 at 08:33:35 PM by Luke Whitacre

Well the filters are correct, still cant get fuel past the filters. It has about a quarter tank of fuel, is this enough fuel or should it have more?

Re(3): 1650 diesel

IP: 184.21.185.185 Posted on October 4, 2013 at 07:48:04 AM by Larry Harsin

That should do it. Larry

Re(4): 1650 diesel

IP: 208.86.59.120 Posted on November 14, 2013 at 10:29:20 PM by Ross

I had this exact same problem this winter when overhauling my 1650. When you change over the filter number at an auto parts store, they give a filter that looks similar but is made differently and has no outlet on top for fuel to run through. It is a different filter than the usual CAV filter like on a Perkins. I will have to look the number up tomorrow and post it if that helps...

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