"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - October, 2014 Archives


Oliver 88 sqeaky racker arm

IP: 50.33.32.248 Posted on October 31, 2014 at 06:11:02 PM by mark muller

Hi Larry, I have a 88 standard..one of the rocker arms is sqeaking I have cleaned the arm assembly several times all the oil ports are clear I have great oil pressure it is the very front rocker arm, the last one to get oil..I am not sure what to do..any ideas??

Re(1): Oliver 88 sqeaky racker arm

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on November 2, 2014 at 09:07:14 AM by Larry Harsin

You apparently have a rocker arm that is so worn that the oil is all gone before it gets to the front. You may need to get a better set of rocker arms. Possibly, I have a set. email me if you need them. Larry


1555

IP: 208.157.174.59 Posted on October 28, 2014 at 08:05:38 PM by Ed Cernohous

I am working on a oliver 1555. I have the front cover off the engine and my crank and cam are aligned according to the marks but when I put the oil pump in I can't get the distributor drive slot to line up parallel to the block. Any idea what my problem could be? It almost seems like my camshaft might be marked wrong. This engine didn't sound like my 1750 and I am trying to chase down the problem.

Re(1): 1555

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 31, 2014 at 08:16:32 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is fairly close, you can still make it work. Larry

Re(2): 1555

IP: 208.157.174.59 Posted on November 5, 2014 at 05:55:22 AM by Ed Cernohous

My question to you is ...why? In both my shop manuals it says that the slot in the oil pump gear is supposed to line up with the distributor mounting holes and mine is off one way or the other. I know that I can MAKE it work but I want this thing right and I was hoping that you could answer my question as to why.

Re(3): 1555

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on November 11, 2014 at 07:45:52 AM by Larry Harsin

They are not all perfect. Just get it as close as you can and that will be what you work with. Larry


Oliver 77D Overheating

IP: 204.12.187.196 Posted on October 27, 2014 at 08:01:24 PM by Eric-IA

Having this problem even at idle. The gauge will jump into HOT, the block is very hot, yet the radiator is cool. I replaced the thermostat again (I had replaced the thermostat in it less then a year ago) and bled off the air in the housing and still getting hot. The water pump is not leaking. Any ideas on what to check next?

Re(1): Oliver 77D Overheating

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 28, 2014 at 07:37:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would have the radiator flow tested. Larry


OLIVER 1800 DIESEL

IP: 67.142.161.21 Posted on October 25, 2014 at 12:56:16 PM by BRYAN

MY OLIVER HAS A CRACKED HEAD, CASTING NUMBER G221 902, will a head with casting number G221 202 interchange with my old head?

Re(2): OLIVER 1800 DIESEL

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 26, 2014 at 10:01:07 PM by Larry Harsin

There is another number stamped on that head. It's in the area where the valve cover sits on the head. It is towards the left front. Larry


Steering problem

IP: 98.220.28.153 Posted on October 24, 2014 at 03:16:18 PM by Jim Hilliard

I have a 1966 1850 diesel. My problem is when the tractor hits a bump usually in road gear the front tires sway out of control, until I come to a stop. The tie rods don't have much play. Not sure of the name (sector arm?) but we're the tie rods attach under the front of tractor has some play.(is this normal) There isn't a nut to tighten that part visible from the bottom of tractor. Any ideas would be helpful to fix my 1850.

Re(1): Steering problem

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 25, 2014 at 07:41:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably the problem is that the Pitman Arm is loose on the shaft. There should be a bolt to tighten that arm on the shaft. However, the splines may be worn so badly that you will have to replace the arm and the shaft both. The nut on that bolt is hard to see. Have your wheels turned hard to the right, then maybe you can see it. Also, the Needle Bearings may be worn enough to make it shimmy. Larry


1265 hydraulic lift issue

IP: 166.137.89.147 Posted on October 21, 2014 at 06:12:04 PM by Ben H.

Hello, I have a 1265 with hydraulic lift issues. When you move the draft to lift the arms it lifts but only in a couple positions and it will not lift all the way up. I rebuilt the pump and cylinder and took the valve block apart as best I could and cleaned it. I also replaced the filter and changed the hydraulic/trans fluid. With all this done there is no change. Does anyone know what the culprit might be, I'm all out of ideas. Thanks for any advice.

Re(1): 1265 hydraulic lift issue

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 22, 2014 at 07:40:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I really am not familiar with the Fiat Olivers. I have not worked on them. You could check with Rick Stair in Wooster, OH and see if he can help you. Email: info@ricksagparts.com phone: 330-466-2164. Larry


Super 77 Diesel Hydraulics

IP: 70.197.193.117 Posted on October 21, 2014 at 05:38:18 PM by STEVE L

My Super 77 Diesel Hydraulics were working just fine for years, now lever will only work in "up", seems like lever restricted from moving back to "down". I switched Cylinder hoses and then cylinder only works "down". Hydraulic only has one lever and forks appear OK, and apparently elec out side, but wires cut off, maybe since new. Also, separate issue happened year prior, can,t get transmission into low range, lever just falls back toward seat. HELP, Thanks, STEVE L.

Re(1): Super 77 Diesel Hydraulics

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 22, 2014 at 07:34:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should take the reservoir off of the hydraulic unit and look in there. Some of the linkage has come loose or broken on the control valve. With the shift lever, it sounds like it has become dislocated or come loose. Remove it and reinstall it. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 Diesel Hydraulics

IP: 70.197.203.205 Posted on October 22, 2014 at 09:41:58 AM by STEVE L

I can't find my manual right now. Will I have to remove PTO shaft to take reservoir off and to also redo shift lever? Thanks, Steve L.

Re(3): Super 77 Diesel Hydraulics

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 23, 2014 at 06:45:00 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You won't have to. Larry


Gemmer hydraglide steering gear

IP: 68.58.85.205 Posted on October 19, 2014 at 06:20:26 PM by john shanahan

My steering gear is leaking out of the top and bottom quadrent seal. I spoke to O'brien impletment and they said you could use the same seal in both top and bottom. Is this true? Also, what is the best way to remove the staking on the seal retainer?

Re(1): Gemmer hydraglide steering gear

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 20, 2014 at 07:30:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes.That is true. Simply unscrew the nut out of the retainer and it will be fine. Larry


Oliver 770 over running clutch

IP: 68.58.85.205 Posted on October 15, 2014 at 07:45:07 PM by John Shanahan

I am replacing the overrunning clutch in the "power booster" drive of a '59 770. The manual talks about a special tool for aligning the drive housing to the front of the rear main frame. Do you have any advise about alignment without the tool? Also, will the clutch house cover mounting holes in the block support the engine in a modern engine stand that is designed to mount an engine off the bell housing? The manual shows an engine mounted off each side using the mounting bolts.

Re(1): Oliver 770 over running clutch

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 16, 2014 at 07:57:00 AM by Larry Harsin

I use the regular Drive Housing to help align it. I don't think I would try to support the engine that way. I would use the regular mounting. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 770 over running clutch

IP: 68.58.85.205 Posted on October 19, 2014 at 06:16:43 PM by john shanahan

I popped the over running clutch out tonight and it does not appear bad ( palls are not broken) It will catch everytime, however, sometimes it takes about half a revolution of the input shaft. Is this normal or is the clutch worn out?

Re(3): Oliver 770 over running clutch

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 20, 2014 at 07:29:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd definitely replace it. Larry


1750 Oliver Oil Leaks at Filter Housing Base - Cartridge Type Oil Filter

IP: 70.192.199.104 Posted on October 14, 2014 at 06:50:08 AM by A. Jacks

I have a late 60's Oliver 1750 which was purchased new and maintained by our family since then. I believe it is a 1968 or 1969 model. I am trying to successfully change the Oil Filter and am having trouble getting it to stop leaking between the cartridge filter canister and the oil filter base. I bought the oil fiter at NAPA and am certain I have the correct one. The oil filter came with 3 different rubber gaskets, each of the same diameter, but of different widths. When I replaced the rubber gasket, I used the one which fit the groove in the oil filter housing base (seemingly) most correctly. It was very obvious to me which rubber gasket provided was appropriate for this application. Nevertheless, despite my tightening down the cartridge filter canister as much as I dare, it still leaks around the bottom of the canister. Nothing is out of round on either the canister or the oil filter housing base. All parts are original. I grew up on a large working grain and livestock farm and was very active in all areas of farming this place. I have 2 college degrees and am at least of average intelligence. However, this one has really stumped me. I can't figure out what to do to keep the oil from leaking. Your timely and wise comments would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1750 Oliver Oil Leaks at Filter Housing Base - Cartridge Type Oil Filter IP: 98.161.32.110 Posted on October 14, 2014 at 10:08:43 PM by Larry K

When I had that problem before, I found that an old gasket had welded it self to the base. I had to work to scrape the old hard gasket off to get down to the base metal. I have also had a bad filter that leaked at the seam. Good look in finding the issue.

Re(2): 1750 Oliver Oil Leaks at Filter Housing Base - Cartridge Type Oil Filter

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 15, 2014 at 07:54:50 AM by Larry Harsin

That could very well be the problem, but I would try a different canister, if all else fails. Larry Harsin


Oliver 60

IP: 216.157.210.162 Posted on October 13, 2014 at 11:31:03 AM by daryl

hello, I am having trouble locating pistons for a 1944 oliver 60. with a 3 3/8 diameter, aluminum. Does anyone know where I can locate one?

Re(1): Oliver 60

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 13, 2014 at 09:13:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with O'Brien Co, Impl. 800-320-6224 or Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


1800 Oliver fuel problem

IP: 166.147.88.21 Posted on October 11, 2014 at 09:04:39 PM by Mario

I have a 61' 1800 Oliver row crop gasser with fuel problems. When I leave my tractor at hi or low idle it will continue to run till I shut it off no matter how long I let it run. But when I start to drive my tractor it will try to die after about 1 min so I will begin to choke it in an effort to keep it running. Eventually, I will end up having to choke it constantly to keep it running and then it will die and not restart even with choke all the way out. I take the fuel bowl off and the gas flows freely from the tank and I have replaced the in-line fuel filter with no change. I have tried to adjust the carb and that isn't helping. It seems to ice up on outside of carb when it is idling at pto speed.It seams like it's loosing vacum while I have a load on it or it needs a carburetor rebuild or something , please help me?

Re(1): 1800 Oliver fuel problem

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 13, 2014 at 09:10:08 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get a carb kit. Larry


Change front end

IP: 76.26.234.153 Posted on October 10, 2014 at 01:30:56 PM by roy smith

1. can a nf be changed to a wf on 1600 2. can that 1550 you have take a loader. 3. is their much difference in 1600 and a 1650.

Re(1): Change front end

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 11, 2014 at 08:23:23 AM by Larry Harsin

1. Yes. 2. Yes, it will handle a loader. 3. The 1600 and the 1650 are nearly identical except for the horsepower. Larry


1600 3 point drop rate

IP: 66.102.6.37 Posted on October 5, 2014 at 12:53:53 PM by mike chapman

I have a really nice original 1600 diesel that is my go to tractor. My guest I on is there any way to adjust the drop seed on the 3pt, seems awfully fast with much weight on it. I have an IT manual and owners Manuel but can't find anything about this adjustment. Thank you in advance.

Re(1): 1600 3 point drop rate

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 7, 2014 at 06:58:18 AM by Larry Harsin

No. There is not. Larry


1850 diesel needs clutch

IP: 209.131.226.11 Posted on October 4, 2014 at 03:05:28 PM by Tony Thompson

Hello, I have my 1969 Oliver 1850 diesel tore apart to replace clutch. I am ready to lift engine and hydro out. At rear of tractor I have removed tin cap, snap ring, threaded plug, o-ring, but the rear shaft slides out about 14 inches and stops against something. it will not pull out far enough to clear the chain coupler. Do you know what is wrong? Thanks for any possible help! Tony

Re(1): 1850 diesel needs clutch

IP: 198.212.99.11 Posted on October 6, 2014 at 06:44:09 PM by Greg

If the shaft is out so you can see the end install a 1/2" bolt with a nut on it for locking it tight to the shaft. Use an impact wrench on the bolt while you pull on the shaft. The shaking of the inpact lines up all of the splines and it will come out

Re(2): 1850 diesel needs clutch

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 13, 2014 at 09:07:32 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to get the splines lined up. Larry


Electrical issues

IP: 70.197.215.58 Posted on October 4, 2014 at 02:33:37 PM by Steve P

On my 1650 diesel I recently changed the battery and re-did some of the wiring on the lights. I add two flashers and two 35 watt head lights. Everything functions great until I drive it at higher RPM. It then blows the fuse to the lights if they are on and boils the battery. I've changed the voltage regulator and it still does it. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks

Re(1): Electrical issues

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 7, 2014 at 07:01:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you are pulling more amperage with your extra lights than the system can handle. You may want to install a larger alternator. Larry


Loader question

IP: 70.208.199.138 Posted on October 2, 2014 at 01:32:01 PM by Darryl Barhorst

I would like any information possible, to find out if my Oliver 1550 loader,which is currently mounted to my 1968 Oliver 1250,will fit,or can be mounted to my 1962 Minneapolis Moline 4 Star...any help with this would be great,and Thank you.

Re(1): Loader question

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 08:48:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I think that is possible. You can get a loader Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. This manual tells how you can fix up loaders to fit different brands of tractors. Larry


Voltage Reducer

IP: 174.238.166.225 Posted on October 2, 2014 at 09:37:56 AM by Jeremy McQuown

Currently have a 12V battery on a Super 55 (gas). System runs on a 6V generator. In order to keep the 12V battery for cold winters, where would you recommend mounting the reducer? In between what items on the wiring diagram should it go?

Re(1): Voltage Reducer

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 08:45:34 AM by Larry Harsin

If it works without the reducer, I would leave it alone. What I normally do is install a 12 volt generator and regulator when I go to a 12 volt system. You can either install a 12 volt ignition core or put a voltage reducer between the ignition switch and the coil. About the lights, either install 12 volt bulbs or install a voltage reducer between the light switch and the lights. Larry


Oliver 1700

IP: 74.46.54.11 Posted on October 1, 2014 at 11:39:06 PM by Austin

Have you ever Heard of a Oliver 1700? TIA

Re(1): Oliver 1700

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 08:41:19 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I haven't. Larry


770 Governor

IP: 76.77.199.65 Posted on October 1, 2014 at 08:04:48 PM by John Holles

My 770 over revs when I start it. Checked the linkage from the quadrant by the steering wheel to the governor and governor back to the carburetor and they move freely. Removed the governor housing and found grooves worn into the shaft in front of the gear. Could this be causing the weights to get hung up and not slide? Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): 770 Governor

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 08:40:18 AM by Larry Harsin

That is a possibility. Larry

Re(2): 770 Governor

IP: 198.212.99.11 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 11:07:46 PM by Greg

The Gov. bushing in the engine block is set to protrude a specific distance. In other words it should be sticking out of the block a certsain distance. If that distance is too short due to wear there used to be a washer you could use to make up the difference. I don;t know if that is available anymore or not. If not the bushing would need to be changed. It's been awhile since I did this so I don't remember the distance but it should be in a shop manual. The part numbers would also be in any of the older parts books from a 77 to a 1650 becayse they were the same. This will cause the lack of gov. control. P.S. i was an Oliver mechanic for 27 years. Greg

Re(3): 770 Governor

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 7, 2014 at 06:57:06 AM by Larry Harsin

The washer is part number K289. If you want to go to the new style set up. Contact Korves Oliver. 618-939-6681. They have a new style bushing that does not require the washer. Larry

Re(4): 770 Governor

IP: 76.77.199.65 Posted on November 15, 2014 at 05:46:22 PM by John Holles

Thanks Larry and Greg. Finished harvest and just getting around to reading your replies. I'll give the new bushing a try and see if it helps. Thanks again. John


S55 governor

IP: 66.116.62.178 Posted on October 1, 2014 at 11:52:41 AM by Ted

I was approached by an acquaintence if I were interested in his S55. It is not running. He showed me two governors that he has removed. The original governor shaft broke while he was running the tractor.He then bought a new governor from Korves and installed it. It went bad immediately. The drive gear was found to have the teeth chewed off. He wants to sell the tractor. Before I make an offer, I would like to know what you think may be causing the goveror problems and what it would take to fix the engine.

Re(1): S55 governor

IP: 172.242.134.43 Posted on October 3, 2014 at 08:39:04 AM by Larry Harsin

My first thought would be that the cam gear is bad. You may also have to replace the crank gear. Larry


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