Oliver 1750 IP: 162.40.76.58 Posted on October 4, 2005 at 10:36:56 AM by anthony

Larry, I had emailed you a while back regarding trying to get live hydraulics out of my tractor to replace an exterior pump. When I tried to loosen the front 1/2 pipe plug on the lid I found it was really tight (I had a 4 foot cheater and found that I was just stripping the inside of the plug). Any advice, I have tried the obvious (w-d 40 and a cheater). I don't think Heat will work with the plug because the steel will expand in all directions?

Re(1): Oliver 1750

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on October 4, 2005 at 02:24:53 PM by J. Ulmer

To try and break the corrosion out of the threads use your W-D 40 or some stuff Larry and his cohorts turned me onto called "PB Blaster" (available at O'Rielly's). Set a heat lamp over the plug and housing and let it warm up all over. Get some dry ice from your grocery store (and use gloves as it will freeze tissue(freeze burn skin). Place a small chunk on the plug and let the plug SHRINK away from the threads (the housing is still warm). This thermal contraction after expansion of the housing has worked for me lots of times before and is really useful where you have aluminum or O-rings you do not want to torch. Good Luck!!Jerry

Re(2): Oliver 1750

IP: 67.2.248.185 Posted on October 4, 2005 at 11:47:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Go ahead and use the heat and let it cool. Then try it. You may have to repeat this process several times. Larry

engine swap IP: 206.145.168.107 Posted on October 3, 2005 at 09:42:46 PM by jason

i have a oliver 2255 with the 3150 cat and was wondering if a 3208 could be installed with no or not many modifications. The 3208 is in a old White that was parted out.

Re(1): engine swap

IP: 67.2.248.127 Posted on October 3, 2005 at 10:25:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it is doable, with a few minor modifications. The fuel system is slightly different. I think the flywheel and the drive train are the same. It would just hook up a little different. Larry

3 cyl diesel IP: 69.3.72.195 Posted on October 2, 2005 at 09:59:09 PM by James Otis

My Grandfather had an Oliver 3 cyl diesel that made a put,put,put,pause sound. I think he told me that it was a 4 cyl engine with one cyl cut off and they used the same 4 cyl pump but with one of the feeds plugged. I think. So it went put,put,put,pause,put,put, put,pause. Is this correct?? Also I think it had an enclosed cab. Any info would help settle a dispute!! Thanks in advance. Jim

Re(1): 3 cyl diesel

IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on October 3, 2005 at 07:55:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Oliver used a 3 cyl. Hercules Diesel in some of the small crawlers in the late 1950's and early 1960's. These sound like what you describe. Also, in the 60's and early 70's Oliver sold Fiat Olivers that had 3 cylinder engines. They were the 1250 A, 1255 and 1265. I am not aware of there being a 4 cylinder with one cut off. I suppose it could be true. Larry

waterpump & serial # IP: 4.172.69.39 Posted on October 2, 2005 at 09:27:43 PM by tom puccini

i have a 1600 oliver and the water pump went , where can i get one ? and as for the ser.# there are 2 sets of numbers on the plate but i cant see which is the ser# . the first set of numbers are 16-2109 and the second set of numbers are 130-716-607, this is a 6 cylinder gas engine i dont know what year it is either , maybe you can help with that as well . hope to hear from you a.s.a.p as i have one more field to cut b/4 it gets to cold . thank you for your help

Re(1): waterpump & serial #

IP: 67.2.179.221 Posted on October 2, 2005 at 10:17:10 PM by Jason

I would just go to any agco dealer, that is where I get mine for our olivers. I would say it must be a 1963

Re(2): waterpump & serial #

IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on October 3, 2005 at 07:39:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The first number you give is the Spec. Number. The Serial Number is 130 716. The last 3 numbers tell of the gearing etc that was put into your tractor. Your 1600 was built in 1963. You can get a waterpump at your AGCO Dealer or call Valu-Bilt. 888-828-3276. Larry

Oliver 88 PTO IP: 65.165.16.211 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 01:26:19 PM by Nebraska Cowman

Is the live PTO (long shaft) the same on the 88 standard and row-crops?

Re(1): Oliver 88 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.86 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 09:50:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Larry

1650 clutch IP: 216.70.5.201 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 07:49:26 AM by C. R. Wolfe

Yikes, I think my clutch has gone bad in my Oliver 1650 gas. SN174203. Seemed to go very quickly from funcitoning fine to not functioning at all. Yesterday while using i suddenly smelt burning cluch smell and by the time I got back to barn it would start moving slowly and would not back up slight incline. Couple of questions so I can do some time money calculations.

1) How difficult is it to replace 1650 clutch? Do I need to split the tractor?

2) What would be average repair cost at a tractor dealer/shop?

It appears that my 1650-1655 Oliver shop manual is missing the pages on the clutch. Group Q10 Engine clutch section only has page Q10-5-1 Specifications and then goes to Q20 Section 10 on the R-O-T (reverse o torgue) section. If anyone would be willing to copy their section Q10 section 5 on the clutch so I have a replacement instructions. I would be most grateful and able to reimburse cost. Fax would be really great as time is an issue with winter heading to MN.

Re(1): 1650 clutch

IP: 67.2.242.108 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 09:58:22 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, we don't have a Fax. I think if you would call the Floyd County Museum, they would Fax the pages to you. 641-228-1099. If your 1650 has hydro-power drive or hydraul drive, the fuel tank will have to be removed, the PTO drive shaft will have to be removed and the engine and radiator will have to be lifted up out of the tractor. There is a new heavy duty diaphram type clutch available for 1650's. I would reccommend using one. This would be a big job. Labor and all, it could be $1000 at a Shop. Larry

Re(2): 1650 clutch

IP: 199.150.177.135 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 12:08:06 PM by CEB

Larry, I had one of those heavy duty diaphram type pressure plates in my 1655 for a couple of years. For one thing, you will need to put in a different style of release bearing for it to work at all. You may need to modify the clutch rod (make it longer) to get enough adjustment. While it is true they are less prone to failure, I did not like the way it worked. The tractor was always tough to shift, I always had to fight it to get it in gear. I tried adjustments, but that didn't help any. Last winter, I put the tractor in the shop and put a regular factory original style pressure plate back in. I bought the best heavy duty one I could find. So far, no problems (knock on wood) and I sure like the way it shifts. I don't have to fight it anymore.

Re(3): 1650 clutch

IP: 67.2.248.86 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 09:49:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I hadn't heard about the problem of hard shifting with the new diaphram before. Glad to hear your solution. Larry

1655 diesel engine temperature IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on September 28, 2005 at 05:32:39 PM by Karl

I was out disking and noticed the temperature gauge was near the red area. I pulled the radiator screen and cleaned off cattail fuzz and also pulled some straw from the radiator face. After letting it idle for a few minutes the temperature gauge went down a little. After returning back to disking the temperature gauge went back up but not to the red area. Under no-load the gauge runs nicely at about 1/3 of the way into the working range on the dial. Does my radiator need to be cleaned/boiled out or does a 1655 diesel run warm when working?

Re(1): 1655 diesel engine temperature

IP: 67.2.242.108 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 09:44:17 AM by Larry Harsin

This doesn't sound unusual for a 1655. Another thing that I have found is fan belts that still slip when they are tight. Try a new fan belt. Larry

1800 IP: 203.173.36.106 Posted on September 28, 2005 at 06:46:27 AM by Ken Wright

Larry, Still having trouble getting the 1800 to run, I was wondering if the fuel lines from the Rossa Master rotary pump might be screwed up. How do you tell on these rotarys which one goes to number one injector?

Re(1): 1800

IP: 67.2.242.108 Posted on September 30, 2005 at 09:42:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It's stamped on the pump body, next to where the line fitting attaches. Larry

1855 won't start IP: 68.219.36.125 Posted on September 26, 2005 at 09:22:25 AM by Vince Geiger

Hi Mr. Larry, my dads 1855(not sure what year) just quit all of a sudden and won't crank back up. here is some background info. i replaced the rubber boots on the return fuel line prior to this problem ( i did the repair, bled the system, engine cranked, tractor was parked for 3 weeks, then tractor was cranked and driven 3 miles, engine quits at end of trip, won't start back), then I started trying to trace problem. Fuel tank full, fuel line from tank to inj. pump clear and flowing strong. Loosened fuel lines comming out of pump, turned eng. over, nothing. Do you think we have a bad inj. pump? Is there a way to be sure? Thanks for any info! My dad, Wendell Geiger said if anybody would know, it would be you

Re(1): 1855 won't start

IP: 67.2.242.122 Posted on September 26, 2005 at 10:51:11 PM by Larry Harsin

First of all, make sure there is a strong flow of fuel to the injection pump. I would loosen a fitting on the inlet side of the pump and turn the engine and see if fuel is squirting out there. If you have good fuel pressure on the inlet side of the injection pump, it should pump fuel through the lines to the injectors. If it does not, you will probably have to have the injection pump repaired as needed. It sounds like you need to have your injection pump repaired. Larry

temp gauge IP: 136.160.146.76 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 10:14:05 AM by CP

Hi Larry, What Oliver tractors or crawlers used the 4lb pressure temp gauges? I have one that has 4lb pressure on the gauge facing and the cable is not quite 3 ft long.

Re(1): temp gauge

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 07:55:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Probably a late S55. This would be my guess. AND......you can't buy them anymore. I havn't been able to find them anyway, that say 4 lb. pressure on them. Larry

1655 diesel starter IP: 66.163.147.75 Posted on September 24, 2005 at 10:57:10 PM by Karl

The 1655 diesel starter had dead spots so had to replace it. Found out the starter I replaced also fits a John Deere 4020 diesel. Is this correct? If not, what problems will I expect to have? I already installed a JD rebuilt starter. The previous owner said the original factory starter could not spin the engine fast enough to get it to start in the winter even with fresh batteries and engine coolant heater/ and manifold heater. I didn't have any problems when it was 20 below with the JD starter...

Re(1): 1655 diesel starter

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 07:52:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I wasn't aware that the JD starters would work in both. If it is working, there is no problem. (Nothing runs like a Deere, :) :) Larry

Re(2): 1655 diesel starter

IP: 66.163.147.144 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 10:30:23 PM by Karl

Larry, The original owner said the factory starter was too weak for this tractor in cold weather. Was this a common problem? Or did the factory install the wrong starter? The JD starter works great...395 dollars later....karl

Re(3): 1655 diesel starter

IP: 67.2.248.168 Posted on September 26, 2005 at 07:57:29 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The original starters were a little small. Larry

1650 starter IP: 69.26.16.233 Posted on September 23, 2005 at 11:16:51 PM by Bill

The starter on my 1650 diesel seems to engage sluggishly. It makes a brief clunk/grind noise until it actually engages and then it spins very well and the tractor starts right up. I have had the strater off twice and cleaned the shaft that the starter gear slides on. After I clean and lube the shaft it works perfectly for a few days and then it gets sluggish again. I should also mention that once the tractor is fully warmed up it no longer makes the noise, but engages smoothly. The cogs on the starter gear look good as does the fly wheel. Could it be a problem with the shaft the gear slides on or is it in that mechanism (solenoid?) on top of the starter that has the plunger that retracts to move the pivot that pushes the gear forward to engage the flywheel?

Re(1): 1650 starter

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 24, 2005 at 10:13:55 AM by J. Ulmer

What type of grease did you lube the Bendix with? Sounds like it is sticking and when the grease is hot it slides easily. I use Lubriplate white water proof wheel bearing (as in boat trailer) grease and it doesn't run off when hot or get hard and sticky when cold. Clean and lube the pivoting mechanism and solenoid slide pin as well as gunk keeps it from slamming the bendix gear into the flywheel teeth (hence the grinding noise as the bendix spinning against the flywheel before it engages teeth). Sat least access isn't as difficult as working on some stuff can be!! It may be your bendix is worn and binding and you might have to replace the starter drive if good cleaning and lubing doesn't keep her working. Good Luck!!ju

Re(2): 1650 starter

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 07:48:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree with what Jerry is saying. Larry

77 3rd member IP: 206.192.96.224 Posted on September 23, 2005 at 10:01:38 PM by Gary

Larry, While pulling out logs for firewood our 77 stopped in it's tracks We towed it back to the shed and removed the floor pan expecting a broken axle. Everthing appears to be as it should although when the tractor is put into gear the differential rotates and the tractor doesn't move. If you apply the right side brake the tractor will move. I can't see anything yet because the tranny was filled with a thin grease instead of gear oil at some point in it's life, due to leaking axle seals I'm told. I have a manual on order but I want to tear into it this weekend. Any tips on what I can look for? Thanks for the help. Gary

Re(1): 77 3rd member

IP: 208.245.213.163 Posted on September 24, 2005 at 12:54:14 PM by Craig

Several years ago I had the same thing happen on my 1850. Turned out that I had sheared the key in the axle hub because the u clamps weren't tight. Just a thought.

Re(2): 77 3rd member

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on September 25, 2005 at 07:43:56 PM by Larry Harsin

My first thought is that the splines are sheared off in a bull gear. It's either this or a broken axle. Sorry I didn't get this answered sooner. We were gone for the weekend. Larry

Re(3): 77 3rd member

IP: 206.192.96.68 Posted on September 26, 2005 at 11:38:25 AM by Gary

Larry, I didn't get time to work on it this weekend so it's no problem at all. I'm pretty sure the axles are still in good shape. I'm leaning towards the sheared spline theory also.I'll tear into it soon and get back to you. Thank you

1655 Hydraulics IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on September 22, 2005 at 09:16:10 AM by karl

Larry, Does an Oliver 1655 diesel built in 1974 have open or closed center hydraulics? Which is better? thanks. karl

Re(1): 1655 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on September 22, 2005 at 11:23:29 PM by Larry Harsin

It has the open center hydraulics. It has the same hydraulics as a 1650. The closed center hydraulic is sort of the standard now days. I wouldn't say that one is better than the other. The closed center employs a variable displacement pump whereas the open does not. Larry

1650 gas - Fuel starvation problem IP: 216.70.5.201 Posted on September 21, 2005 at 07:04:07 PM by Charles Wolfe

I beleive I have a fuel delivery problem with my 1650 gas. It starts right up and runs well for a while but if I start to drive it, after about 30 - 60 seconds either abrubtly dies or will start to sputter. If I put in clutch and remove load, it will often recooperate until load is put on it again. I have cleaned out sediment bowl. It appeared to me that the flow rate out of tank to sediment bowl was slower than I expected... I am no expert... maybe it was adequate flow, it just seems slower than I anticipated. Where are the likely spots that will cause fuel delivery problems? What is a good diagnostic approach to the problem? Your suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Re(1): 1650 gas - Fuel starvation problem

IP: 67.2.248.11 Posted on September 21, 2005 at 10:16:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing to check is to make sure that your filler cap is venting. See if the tractor acts better if you loosen it or take it off. If that doesn't do it, I'd unscrew the fuel strainer assembly out of the bottom of the tank and clean it out. Make sure there is no foreign material in there. Next thing I would check the flow through the fuel valve and the level of the floats. Larry

88 tranny question IP: 63.230.52.198 Posted on September 20, 2005 at 07:21:43 PM by Ray

Perhaps some of you Oliver experts out there can tell me if I'm on the right track. My Super 88 has always had a whine in the transmission when run in 3rd, 4th and 6th gears. It gets higher pitched and louder as the tractor speeds up. 1st, 2nd and 5th gears make no noise at all. Since 1st/3rd, 2nd/4th, and 5th/6th use the same gears, I figured the howl must be a bad bearing somewhere like the high-low slider. So I removed the PTO unit, the electro-hydro unit, and the floorplate to see what was going on. I can't see anything obviously wrong, but I did find that the very top shaft with the high and low gears had about 1mm of up and down play. All other gear shafts have no vertical play whatsoever. The slider on the top shaft also had about 3 or 4mm of lateral play, along with the connector rod. The vertical play on the top shaft seemed to be more pronounced at the rear of the shaft closest to the high gear. Even though the bearings at the rear of the shaft appear to be fine and turn easily with my finger, my thinking is that they need to be replaced to get rid of that play, which would likely get rid of much of the whine in the high range of gears. Is my feeble mind working correctly in this instance? Now for one last related question. The main shaft running back from the engine has a bit of a wobble in it right where it is exposed between the rear of the block and the dash. Could that have something to do with the whine? My thinking is it doesn't, since only one tranny range has any noise, and the wobble isn't bad enough to be knocking against anything. Great web site, and I love reading all the advice offered by the many Oliver aficionados out there!

Re(1): 88 tranny question

IP: 67.2.249.118 Posted on September 20, 2005 at 11:58:54 PM by Larry Harsin

These transmissions had whinning noises when they were new, some worse than others. I have a feeling that you can correct all of the things that you mention, and you will still have a whinning transmission. Larry

Re(2): 88 tranny question

IP: 63.230.52.198 Posted on September 21, 2005 at 10:04:03 AM by Ray

Thanks, Larry. I grew up hearing the Oliver whine, but I've also run across some 77s and 88s that make no noise at all. Somebody once told me Oliver transmissions whine because they're so strongly built. One former Oliver dealer even told me to mix up some oatmeal and dump it in the transmission and that would quiet it down. I'll just pack plenty of grease around the bearings, have the oatmeal for breakfast, and call it good. Thanks a bunch! As always, you're a Godsend to all of us novice Oliver mechanics. By the way, I wrote a series of newspaper columns chronicling the restoration of my Super 88 this past summer that were extremely popular with local readers. As soon as I can figure out how to make them available to visitors to your Web site, I'll do so. It's the least I can do for all of us who know the best green tractors didn't come from Waterloo, Iowa, but about 45 miles north of there.

generator belt IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on September 19, 2005 at 02:51:43 PM by J.P.

Larry, How do you put a generator belt on my rc 77?? I don't see an idler pully or any way to slide the water pump. It looks like there may be an adjustment on the crank pulley but not sure. I am getting a manual for it soon just thought I would ask. Really glad you take time to help us hobby and real farmers out!!! J.P.

Re(1): generator belt

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 19, 2005 at 06:11:20 PM by jerry

You should be able to loosen the bolts on the generator and rotate it through the slotted end bracket and use the generator as your tightening idler. Unless your generator is mounted differently from all I have seen (I do not have an RC70 handy to look at) you will find it has two holes pivotting together on each end and one opposite these on the pully end which is in a curved slotted bracket which lets the generator rotate in an arc moving the pulley farther from the crankshaft and water pump pulleys. They remain in position and the generator us used to take up slack.

Re(2): generator belt

IP: 67.2.248.83 Posted on September 19, 2005 at 10:13:31 PM by Larry Harsin

The RC 77 has a movable shiv on the crankshaft pulley. You have to open the shiv up wide and you should be able to change the belt out. These details will be covered in your Operator's Manual. Jerry's method of changing in the above post is for a S77. Sometimes these have been put into a RC 77. Larry

Re(3): generator belt

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on September 21, 2005 at 08:43:40 AM by J.P.

Sorry guy's I messed up!! I know how put on the gen belt need to know how to get the fan belt off so I can put put the gen belt on. I m not as dumb as I look!!

Re(4): generator belt

IP: 67.2.248.168 Posted on September 26, 2005 at 08:01:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You still have to loosen the adjustment on the crankshaft pulley. Then take the big belt off of the crankshaft pulley, then you can work the small belt over the fan and through the big belt. Larry

tractors IP: 207.118.211.140 Posted on September 18, 2005 at 04:54:26 PM by Jeremy

Hi I have A ####shutt/ Oliver and I would like to find out more about it but it don't have a seireal number enymore but I have some parts numbers for it how would I go about finding out more on this to find the make and modle of it? If enyone hase eny info please contact me A hackerjeremy63@hotmail.com thank you

Re(1): tractors

IP: 67.2.249.253 Posted on September 19, 2005 at 07:39:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The best thing would be if you could email a picture of it to me. (cobalt@rconnect.com) You can look on the engine block for numbers. Once you figure out what tractor that you have, you can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA, by emailing them. Email: fchs@fiai.net However, you will have to know what tractor that you have first. Larry

Oliver 70 IP: 66.112.34.98 Posted on September 18, 2005 at 11:28:14 AM by Leslie Stewart

Hello, i have a 1937 Oliver 70, there is a popping noise coming from the transmission, or rearend when it is put under a load

Re(1): Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.140 Posted on September 18, 2005 at 01:46:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the bull gear cover off and see if something is wrong in there. If you can't find anything in there, you'll have to look in the transmission. Possibly it is a bad bearing..... Larry

880 IP: 206.173.112.17 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 05:27:08 PM by jim

Larry: My 880 diesel is hard starter when cold.Is this common? Also, was this engine built by Oliver? Thanks,

Re(1): 880

IP: 67.2.186.177 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 10:48:00 PM by Mike

I have a 1958 880 diesel and it starts a little hard when it is colder if I don't plug it in, check to see if the manifold heater is working properly. The motor is a Waukesha.

Re(2): 880

IP: 67.2.248.148 Posted on September 18, 2005 at 06:28:17 AM by Larry Harsin

The most common problem on disels with hard starting is low compression. BUT, you can also have weak batteries, a marginal starter that needs repair, bad injectors, etc. The typical 880 here, I give a whiff of ether and they take right off. The engine was built by Waukesha, but it was a joint venture between Oliver and Waukesha. Oliver had a lot of input into the design. Oliver also did the foundry work on these engines, then were sent over to Waukesha where they did the machining and built the engine. They are called Waukesha engines. Larry

1655 diesel muffler IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 05:10:38 PM by karl

Larry, When I bought my 1655 Oliver from the orignal owner 2 years ago, they had a staight pipe exhaust. I asked a local CASEIH dealership to put on a muffler. I use the tractor alot for loader work in the winter time and very little in the summer time until last weekend. Now, 7 days later my ears are still ringing. I gues I will have to wear earplugs... but that leads me to my question. Dad's Oliver 88 gas with a stock muffler was very quite. Is the Stock muffler for a 1655 diesel quite also? I would go out and buy a new muffler if it would help. I don't want to waste money either. I see that the stock mufflers were black, mine is a silver straight through design. Thanks.

Re(1): 1655 diesel muffler

IP: 216.114.209.245 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 09:29:59 PM by lyle

Karl, the oem black mufflers are still available from your AGCO dealer,they are made by Nelson and have a heat shield on them, be prepared to spend in the $90.00 area Lyle

Re(2): 1655 diesel muffler

IP: 66.163.147.46 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 10:45:25 PM by karl

Lyle, thanks for the info. Will the OEM muffler be less noisy?

Re(3): 1655 diesel muffler

IP: 216.114.209.245 Posted on September 16, 2005 at 07:15:06 AM by lyle

Karl not only does that muffler sound better it looks a lot nicer if your into that sort of thing thanks lyle

Re(4): 1655 diesel muffler

IP: 67.2.248.16 Posted on September 16, 2005 at 00:54:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I would go get the muffler from AGCO. They have 2 different ones. They are both quieter and the more expensive one is the quietest. I would spend the extra bucks and get the quieter one. Larry

Re(4): 1655 diesel muffler

IP: 66.163.147.162 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 08:31:33 AM by karl

Larry and Lyle. Thanks for the information. I will order the quietist one today! thanks for hosting this forum, karl

Diesel in gas IP: 68.124.96.17 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 03:22:46 PM by Mark

We have a 1958 S55 with a gasoline engine. We had about 1Z(2 gallon of gasoline in the fuel tank. We accidentally added 1Z(2 gallon of diesel and ran the tractor for 10 minutes before we realized our mistake. I drained a little fuel out and it looked and smelled like gasoline. The S55 ran fine. Is there anything I should check or be concerned about?

Re(1): Diesel in gas

IP: 69.26.16.88 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 11:24:47 PM by Bill

A bit of diesel in the gas should not hurt a thing - might make a little smoke, but the extra lubricating quality in the diesel fuel will only lubricate your upper engine a bit. I used to add a gallon or so of diesel to my old Dodge pickup occasionally to make it ping less when pulling.

Re(2): Diesel in gas

IP: 67.2.248.16 Posted on September 16, 2005 at 00:48:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it will hurt it. I would just fill it up with gas and run it. Larry

1750 fuel IP: 207.254.120.222 Posted on September 14, 2005 at 08:41:52 PM by curt w

Hello Larry. I'm having trouble with my 1750 running. It's a diesel. It was loosing power. I thought it was fuel starved, so I changed the filters and bled them. Now it only runs for a very short time and acts as if it's still starved for fuel. Any ideas? Thanks.

Re(1): 1750 fuel

IP: 216.114.209.245 Posted on September 14, 2005 at 09:01:53 PM by LYLE

CURT I WOULD DARE TO BET THE INJECTION PUMP IS BAD AND WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED, ONE THING YOU CAN DO IS WHEN THE TRACTOR IS RUNNING AND STARTS ACTING UP LOOSEN THE TWO LITTLE SCREWS ON THE SIDE OF THE PUMP THAT COVER THE TIMING MARKS AND IF IT STARTS TO RUN A LITTLE BETTER THEN THE PUMP IS TOAST

Re(2): 1750 fuel

IP: 67.2.249.89 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 07:40:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I would check the vent fitting on the top of the pump, where the return line attaches, and make sure it isn't plugged. If you see material that looks like coffee grounds lodged in that vent fitting you may have a governor ring inside the pump, that is beginning to break up. If so, the pump will have to be removed and repaired at a pump shop. Larry

Re(3): 1750 fuel

IP: 152.163.100.202 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 09:02:24 PM by douglas wenig

before you start on the injection pump i would check the fuel supply pump because a bad diaphram and/or bad check valves can do the same thing and its a lot cheaper than an injection pump

row crop 77 charging IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on September 14, 2005 at 10:45:44 AM by J.P.

Larry, The old oliver I bought a few weeks ago was a pulling tractor. The guy has hooked a 12 voplt coil up to run the tractor in the pulls. He also cut the fan belt from the generator. can I put an alternator on this tractor?? Or should I try to go back to the 6 volt system. The wires are still hooked to the generator and runing to the amp gauge. I am planning to restore the old tractor back to original as possible. Thanks in advance. J.P.

Re(1): row crop 77 charging

IP: 67.2.249.89 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 07:36:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I would leave it 6 volt and get a 6 volt coil and put back on it. If it doesn't turn over good with the starter, I would have the starter repaired as needed and use either a group II 6 volt battery or an 8 volt battery. Larry

Re(2): row crop 77 charging

IP: 12.154.100.33 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 08:51:55 AM by J.P.

Larry, Whre would be the best place to find a belt for the gen?? I am in central ky and ollie dealers are a thing of the past. I assume the coil can be purchased at a local auto parts place. J.P.

NAPA should have the belt and the coil. Otherwise, you can call Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

oliver 550 over heating IP: 66.38.41.223 Posted on September 14, 2005 at 00:46:00 AM by kris

my 550 recently started overheating, my radiator sprung many leaks after. i replaced the radiator but it did not solve the problem. i checked the thermostat it seemed to be in working order. it is a 1963 550, im not sure how check the water pump, or if operates internally like a autos. i would be very thankful for any info. to help. thank you.

Re(1): RE: oliver 550 over heating

IP: 67.2.248.65 Posted on September 14, 2005 at 08:08:45 AM by Larry Harsin

Get the tractor warmed up and remove the radiator cap and see if there are air bubbles. If you see air bubbles, it is a sign that you are getting compression into the water jacket. This could be a bad head gasket, a cracked cylinder head or a porous or cracked cylinder sleeve. As far as the water pump being the problem, I havn't encountered this on Olivers, but once I did find a water pump problem on another brand of tractor and that involved an impeller that had come loose from the shaft and was not turning with the shaft. Larry

Oliver Plow IP: 207.119.231.215 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 09:47:07 PM by Jeff

I have an A-C2 Oliver horse-drawn, single-bottom plow that my great-grandpa, grandpa, and dad used plowing cotton in Arkansas. I'd like to know when these were made and where I can find replacement handles, nuts and bolts, and original color paint. The handles appear to have been red at one time. I know absolutely nothing about Oliver Implements so any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver Plow

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 10:48:15 PM by Larry Harsin

These plows were made in South Bend IN and are listed in the 1934 "Book of Oliver". They were made with either a steel beam or a wood beam. I believe they were possibly built as early as 1900 and as late as 1940. As I remember, the beams and the handles were red. Contact Darrell Pollesch at 920-928-2392 or Morris Harrison 712-722-3013 about replacement parts, etc. Larry

transmission 550 IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 09:15:48 PM by john

hello again have a 550 gas, been noticing certain dificulty lately shifting from forward to revese in low gear . adjusted the clutch this weekend to the specs of 1/2 to 3/4 freeplay. now there is a whinning noise in the tranny and that goes away in neutal and when put in gear the clutch pedal vibrates like the teeth of the tranny are attached to it as it slips in gear. tries increaseing the free play to no avail..any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): transmission 550

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 10:35:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the cover off of the transmission and see what is going on in there. It could be a bad bearing or possibly a spanner nut has come loose. Look it over and see what you can find. Larry

Re(2): transmission 550

IP: 205.188.117.10 Posted on September 15, 2005 at 08:16:15 AM by john

what would be the purpose of the spanner nut larry?

Re(3): transmission 550

IP: 67.2.249.157 Posted on September 16, 2005 at 11:03:03 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a nut used on a shaft to hold things in place. There are a couple of them in the transmission, in the front. Larry

Re(4): transmission 550

IP: 205.188.117.10 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 07:30:13 PM by john

thanks larry,do i have to split the tractor to see the loose nut or can i veiw it from the top? i was advised by a friend that i should not attempt to split the tractor myself i can however access the top and i have an IT manual.

Re(5): transmission 550

IP: 67.2.248.148 Posted on September 18, 2005 at 06:32:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I would take the top off first and look. The split is not that hard. Just follow the instructions in the Shop Manual, if you have to do it. Larry

Re(6): transmission 550

IP: 205.188.117.9 Posted on September 24, 2005 at 05:53:54 PM by john

well took the top off to look in transmission,the spanner nut was a little loose tightened it a 1/4 turn,reassembled mr oliver now its worse?? please advise,will not go into to low 1 cannot even shift if tracor is running.

Re(7): transmission 550

IP: 67.2.248.197 Posted on October 3, 2005 at 08:09:53 AM by Larry Harsin

The tractor is going to have to be split. Whether you do it or a mechanic, is up to you. Larry

1550 Carb and Rear end? IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 11:49:03 AM by Jeff

I adjust my carburetor for idle and air mixture and it runs fine. After driving the idle is at a much higher idle. The air mixture doesn't seem to make much difference except when screwed all the way in and the tractor quits. Gas slowly drips out of the bottom of the carb unless I shut the fuel off when parked. Also, someone had put transmission fluid in the rear end. Will this cause damage? Should I flush it before replacing with gear oil? How would I flush it? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1550 Carb and Rear end?

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 10:32:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I would soak the carb in carb cleaner and install a new carb kit. Also, check your manifold gaskets ( on the changing of the mixture). On the rear end, just drain out the transmission fluid and put in new 80 - 90 transmission grease. You don't need to flush it. Larry

engine for 4-78-15 IP: 216.106.26.196 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 09:52:34 PM by Jason Epperson

I was wondering if you would have or know someone that has a complete engine for a 4-78-15 backhoe? I think the 1650/55 diesel is the same thing. This would be a 283 waukesha correct? Thank you.

Re(1): engine for 4-78-15

IP: 67.2.248.184 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 11:14:15 PM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932 or Tim Smith at email: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

Diesel overflow IP: 71.241.206.24 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 07:50:11 AM by Gerry form Maine

My tractor seemed to overheat, 1960 880. Then all the diesel in gas tank, ran into oil pan and overflowed out between engine and transmission. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Diesel overflow

IP: 67.2.248.184 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 11:11:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I would guess that the diaphram on the transfer pump sprung a leak and all of the diesel fuel went into the crankcase. You can get a repair kit for the fuel pump from Korves Bros. Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry Re(2): Diesel overflow

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 17, 2005 at 10:17:32 PM by J. Ulmer

You will then need to drain and change engine oil & filter and if it oiled your clutch/flywheel housing (internally) you may need to figure out how to do some cleaning in there. I don't know if there is a drain and it was open at the bottom of the clutch (assuming it was covered,) but I had the dickens of a time with a Ford which rusted the hydraulic pipe passing through the trannsmissio from the pump to the rear of the tractor. The tranny overflowed into the clutch and we had beauceau problemos. Split the tractor three times till we found oil source problem, and twice more cleaning up clutches. Good luck!!

Re(3): Diesel overflow

IP: 70.105.250.63 Posted on September 22, 2005 at 09:20:01 PM by Gerry form Maine

Thanks much for your continued help. I'll find out soon

1955 super 55 steering gear IP: 69.37.225.188 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 08:03:29 PM by Bill

I own a 1955 super 55 with a very worn steering gear Could you recommend a sorce for a good used or rebuilt steering gear for this machine thank you in advance Bill

Re(1): 1955 super 55 steering gear

IP: 67.2.248.238 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 07:43:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

super 77 firing order IP: 67.40.108.61 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 01:45:11 PM by chad pender

My father in law had just purchased a belived to be a oliver super77. This tractor has sat in a field where the cows have ate off the spark plug wires. We are trying to fing the correct firing order. Could you help us or lead us to someone that can: THANKS

Re(1): super 77 firing order

IP: 70.224.86.127 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 08:35:19 PM by 90%ret'd

1-5-3-6-2-4 is the firing order

HG crawler tranny IP: 169.207.130.30 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 11:37:49 AM by Randy

we are looking for a transmission for our HG crawler. Will a tranny from a Avery model A fit? is it identical to an HG?

Re(1): HG crawler tranny

IP: 67.2.249.51 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 01:32:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Zimmerman Cletrac. www.olivercletrac.com I think it might, but they will know for sure. Larry

770 diesel IP: 216.223.180.75 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 08:58:52 AM by RICH RENSBERGER

I have a 770 diesel that wont start unless you ether it or pull it only a foot or so.Runs great otherwise,smokes a little but seems to have good power,my son has won a few tractor pulls with it.Any ideas would be helpful,thanks. RICH

Re(1): 770 diesel

IP: 24.231.250.125 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 12:53:15 PM by Jeff

Does it start OK when warm? Check the timing on the injector pump.

Re(2): 770 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.51 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 01:36:57 PM by Larry Harsin

My first thought would be that it has low compression. Remove the muffler and the air intake at the preheater. Then crank the engine with the starter. If you hear exhaust leakage or valve leakage on the intake side, a valve job would be in order. If you remove the cylinder head to do a valve job and can see wear on the cylinders, you will need to overhaul the engine. Larry

Re(3): 770 diesel

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 09:47:35 PM by bradk

Is the engine cranking fast enough(battery , cables, or starter)? ~brad

166 power unit IP: 207.254.120.237 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 10:31:00 PM by curt w.

Larry, I have the chance to buy a 166 power unit in very sad shape. My question is: Are these units at all rare? I believe it's the same motor in the 66. Is the serial # in series with the tractor?

Re(1): 166 power unit

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 11:05:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't believe they are extra rare, but if I had a chance to purchase one, I would. It is the same motor as the 66. I'm not sure about the serial number being in line with the tractor serial numbers. I doubt it. I think they could answer this question at the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or call them: 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 1955 IP: 24.231.250.125 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 04:53:25 PM by Jeff

Hi Larry, We have a 1955 Oliver with a 310 Wakashaw D. Year 1971. When purchased the tractor had 40 pounds of oil pressure when cold but as the engine warmed up the oil pressure dropped to 18 pounds and stayed there. We rebuilt the engine including new pistons, bearings, sleeves, gaskets, head and turbo. Tractor runs great, has great power, but the oil pressure problem is exactly the same. There are no external leaks, I have tried a new guage, have placed the guage in a different port, have checked the releif valve. Any suggestions of how to locate the source for losing oil pressure? Thank you Larry, Jeff P.S. We are an oliver family. Grew up on them and still farm with them. I really enjoy your web site. You certainly know a lot about Olivers!

Re(1): Oliver 1955

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 11:02:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the oil pan and pull the oil pump out. Look for wear in the bushings and the shaft. I have found these usually to be worn when this problem occurs. Glad to hear from Oliver Families!! Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1955

IP: 24.231.250.125 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 12:50:20 PM by Jeff

Thank you for your reply Larry, Are the bushings replaceable on the pump or would you recommend a pump replacement? If parts are available do you have a source? Thanks again Larry, Jeff

Re(3): Oliver 1955

IP: 67.2.249.51 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 01:42:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The bushings are replaceable. You can get them from AGCO. Your shaft will probably be worn also. A new one is "spendy". You may want to take yours to a machine shop and see what they would charge to build yours up or make a new one for you. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 1955

IP: 24.231.250.125 Posted on September 11, 2005 at 05:19:57 PM by Jeff

Thanks for your help Larry, My brother is a machinist so if needed he can rework the shaft no problem. Thanks again and take care, Jeff

Wiring IP: 207.69.138.144 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 02:05:48 AM by Justin

Would you happen to have a wiring diagram for a 1952 Oliver 88 Diesel Rowcrop, with the kick starter. (NO keystarter or hydra-electric hydraulics)

Re(1): Wiring

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on September 10, 2005 at 10:59:02 PM by Larry Harsin

You find these wiring diagrams in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone them: 641-228-1099. Larry

1800 B Hydraulics fixed IP: 70.97.230.60 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 10:23:50 PM by Jeff Oliver

checked the list arms and they were all the way up with no play. Readjusted the linkage under the lift lever and everything seems ok now. Thanks!!

Re(1): 1800 B Hydraulics fixed

IP: 67.2.248.135 Posted on September 9, 2005 at 06:41:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad we could help! Larry

oliver 70 IP: 69.66.118.143 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 09:29:14 PM by jason cooney

Hi Larry I am From western Iowa. I have an oliver 70 that my grandpa bought new. I am getting ready to restore it. The question I have is about the paint.There is a red paint strip around the lower part of the frame, I have seen alot of pictures and none of them have it. Did someone put this on there or is it factory? Thanks Jason

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.135 Posted on September 9, 2005 at 06:40:13 AM by Larry Harsin

That was factory. It will be the same red as was used on the wheels. Larry

1250 Dsl IP: 170.141.68.35 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 10:56:15 AM by Enrico Pucci III

I have been looking at your great web site!, I havn't found parts listing for my new 1250Dsl, I am in need of a front grill and a left fender.

Re(1): 1250 Dsl

IP: 67.2.248.135 Posted on September 9, 2005 at 06:37:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9932 or www.AgPartsFirst.com Larry

Re(2): 1250 Dsl

IP: 170.141.68.35 Posted on September 12, 2005 at 01:45:04 PM by Enrico Pucci III

Thanks larry, the site is great. I am wondering if you happen to have a picture of a 1968 1250dsl. I am wanting to see what my tractor looked like when it was purchased in 1968.

Re(3): 1250 Dsl

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on September 13, 2005 at 10:54:07 PM by Larry Harsin

If you would get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA, there would be a picture in it. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. You might check out this website also. I don't remember what he has pictured: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html It would have been Meadow Green and Clover White. Larry

1800 timing IP: 203.173.36.27 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 06:37:13 AM by Ken Wright

One of my Oliver tractors I am restoring, here in Australia, has a 1800A or 1800B engine fitted with a Rossa Master rotary fuel pump. Could you please tell me the timing of the fuel pump i.e. the degrees before/after top dead centre. An early reply would be greatly appreciated, as we are running out of reasons why she won't go!

Re(1): 1800 timing

IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 07:52:33 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1800A is 8 degrees before TDC. The 1800B is 2 degrees before TDC. Larry

Oliver 70 head gasket IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 10:54:14 PM by Larry

I just ordered a new head gasket through NAPA because I was getting leakage between the head and block. The new head gasket does not fit perfect. 1. The pilot holes are too small. Is it safe to drill out those holes to make it fit?

2. The gasket does not fit squarely over the water ports on the left side of the engine.

Is this normal? Is there a different gasket for a 1948 Oliver 70?

Re(1): Oliver 70 head gasket

IP: 67.2.249.15 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 11:56:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't encountered this problem before.........the gasket may not have been stamped out correctly. There is only one gasket that I know of. I believe I would take it back to NAPA. Larry

80 IP: 69.69.42.141 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 02:27:00 PM by anthony

I have a american 80 white great tractor. I'm having problems with the arms settling with the engine off on the 3 point and surging also when the engine is running.any suggestions?

Re(1): 80

IP: 67.2.249.15 Posted on September 7, 2005 at 11:53:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I think there is a ball check in the servo valve, that is not seating properly. Looking down on the servo valve while you are sitting on the tractor, it would be the check valve in the front top of the servo. This is the first thing I would check. Larry

Re(2): 80

IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 06:59:29 AM by Larry Harsin

This settling when the engine is shut off, is not abnormal. Sometimes you cannot cure that completely. Larry

Re(3): 80

IP: 69.69.42.141 Posted on September 8, 2005 at 02:21:25 PM by anthony

Are you refering to the american 80 or the 1365? Did I tell you about the 1365 hydraulic problems I thought maybe the pump was weak on it. Arms will drop when tractor is idled down, as well dropping when not running. Thanks

Re(4): 80

IP: 67.2.242.119 Posted on September 9, 2005 at 11:25:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I was talking about the 80. I don't feel qualified to comment on the 1365. There weren't any around here and I havn't worked on them. Larry

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