77 RC hydraulics

IP: 208.253.76.238 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 08:04:48 PM by Mark G.

Larry, just recently purchased a 77 that has been shed kept but not ran hard for 4yrs. All parts and engine seem fine except for the hydraulics. It has a selfmounted NI picker on it and when a drove it in the shed it wouldn't relieve the pressure and allow the nose of the picker to drop. It raised the it just fine. Every once and awhile it I would jerk the lever quick it would relieve just a little pressure. Since I'm not a master mechanic I was wondering if you could give me some direction where to start looking. What area's should I be checking. Thanks for all your great input! Thanks, Mark

Re(1): 77 RC hydraulics

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 09:29:27 PM by R. Marg

was it running when you tryed to let it down my 77RC won't release unless it is running don't know if that helps but I fugured I give you my 2 cents worth

Re(2): 77 RC hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 10:36:21 PM by Larry Harsin

It may simply be just low on oil. Add a couple qts. of hydraulic oil. This is probably what the problem is. Marg is right about having the engine running. Sometimes you have to speed the engine up a little. Larry

Re(3): 77 RC hydraulics

IP: 208.253.76.229 Posted on October 12, 2003 at 08:04:03 AM by Mark G.

Gentlemen, Yes, the tractor was running and it was low on fluid. I added two qts. of oil and the problem still persisted. Although, I did only have the tractor at idle speed. I'll try to speed it up a little and try that. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the help!!! Mark

Re(4): 77 RC hydraulics

IP: 208.253.76.223 Posted on October 12, 2003 at 12:37:14 AM by Mark G.

Well... I cranked up the trottle and the pressure was releived. This technique worked, but is this the norm? Also, I will be sending for an owners manual but one thing that is different that I see from my 88RC is that the hydraulic oil filter, if there is one on the 77, is not in the same location. I'll learned alot more in the future. Thanks for expereince!! Mark

Re(5): 77 RC hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 06:46:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is the norm. Many of the older hydraulic systems were built without filters. About 1953, Oliver started building the units with filters. There is information in the Oliver Shop Manual about fitting filters on the earlier style units. Larry

Cletrac Tractor

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 02:14:13 PM by R. Marg

I'm look at buying an old Cletrac but haven't found any numbers on it. It is very small has an engine about 18 inchs long and I can just fit in to the thing the shift lever is right under my right leg when I sit in it it would almost fit in a pickup truck bed also what might it be i.e. numbers of it or where do I find them on it and what might it be worth it is complete but not running right now but the engine is free

Re(1): Cletrac Tractor

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:37:53 PM by Larry Harsin

That sounds like a little Model F. Does it have the high rear drive sprocket? These were built around 1920 and are quite rare. Nice find!!!! For more information and parts etc., contact Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA. Email: zoc@att.net or 717-738-2573. Larry

Cletrac tractor

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 03:11:22 PM by R. Marg

well I got the thing so now what is it on the side of the engine there are the numbers E15 T about what year etc is this little thing???

Re(1): Cletrac tractor

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 10:32:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Really, I am not a Cletrac Expert. Did you contact Landis Zimmerman? He has a business of servicing Cletracs and selling parts etc. If you are closer to the West Coast, contact Bechthold Tractor Service in Lodi CA Email: trim-n-prun@softcom.net. In my book, it doesn't say anything like E15 T. Larry

Re(2): Cletrac tractor

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 11:15:16 PM by R Marg

Well Larry I'm in Missouri around the lake of the ozarks but thanks

Re(3): Cletrac tractor

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on October 12, 2003 at 07:35:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Email Landis Zimmerman and ask him where to look for a serial number or some other identification. Email: zoc@att.net Larry

Re(4): Cletrac tractor

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 12, 2003 at 04:04:38 PM by R. Marg

Just to let you know Larry I've had this little toy now for about 24 hours and it now runs. It had 3 stuck valves intake on 2,3,4 cylinder the carb need cleaning and of course it still needs a lot of orher work but now that I know it runs the rest is a down hill climb

Cletrac tractor

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 07:55:59 AM by R Marg

Larry Zimmerman thinks its a HG and by the way I had it up and running yesterday It had 3 intake valves stuck open but now I need a starter since the one that is on it was rigged for it not the right one Thanks for all the Info Rich

Quick Hitch from Tractor Supply

IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 09:28:38 PM by RB

I am considering buying a Tractor Supply cat. II quick hitch to go on my 1955. Will it work? In other words, will the lift arms ends fit inside the quick hitch slots with the Oliver swivel balls? Also will the toplink ball fit into the top slot of this quick hitch? Overall, is this quick hitch a good unit, or is some other brand much better? Any advice will be appreciated.

Re(1): Quick Hitch from Tractor Supply

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on October 11, 2003 at 10:25:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I would buy it with the understanding that it will work or I would be able to take it back. It is probably fine. Larry

tricks to fix

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 12:37:42 AM by R. Marg

If you have a locked up engine try turpentine it eats rust and will unlock a stuck engine quickly and if you have one that overheats and nothing else works try vinegar in the cooling system it works better then all the stuff I have tryed from the parts houses and for less $$$

Re(1): tricks to fix

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 08:22:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for the tips! I have a stuck tractor I will try it on. Larry

Re(2): tricks to fix

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 09:06:17 PM by R. Marg

it worked very well on my AC 190XT it had been locked up for about two years and the tupentine had it un locked in 2 or 3 hours and it now purrs like a kitten. just thought I help out other people if I could. also works well for removeing rust from parts ,carbs etc

oliver 77

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 11:17:03 AM by R. Marg

is there an easy way to up the H.P. of my 77 to get it up around 55HP I know by the test that it puts out about 38 HP stock can I get it up to around 55 whit out hurting it?????

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 08:19:45 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't think it is practical or will work. You are asking too much from that tractor. I wouldn't reccommend going more than 45 HP, which amounts to installing S77 sleeves and pistons. You could spend a lot of money trying to get more HP and then your cooling system wouldn't be adequate. Larry

Re(2): oliver 77

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 09:09:55 PM by R. Marg

thats what I figured but figured I'd ask any way just trying to get it to pull a New holland 850 round baler which it won't do like it is but it sure does a good job of trying and if things are just right it does a good job but most of the time the hay doesn't cure right to make it work all the time

550 wheel ?

IP: 65.149.188.9 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 05:33:40 AM by John

I have a 550 with 26 inch power adj. wheels. One rim is rusted beyond repair. I have a set of MF 28 inch power adj. rims with cast centers that won't fit. Can the Oliver 26 in. centers be used with 28 inch rims??

Re(1): 550 wheel ?

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 07:12:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The Parts Book says that they did use 28 inch power adjust wheels were an option. I don't know where you will find any. Larry

Re(2): 550 wheel ?

IP: 65.149.188.49 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 09:31:41 AM by John

I have the 28 inch rims. In your parts book, are the 26 and 28 inch centers the same? I think the four parts that connect to the rim might adjust far enough to be used. Just trying to find out before I clean up the multiple coats of paint and rust. Thanks for any further info.

Re(3): 550 wheel ?

IP: 67.2.242.33 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 08:16:52 PM by Larry Harsin

No, they are not the same. The disk for the wheels are different. The part number for the disk on the 28 inch rim is 100 087A. The part number for the disk on the 26 inch rim is 101 323A. Larry

1650 Front tire size

IP: 12.30.157.65 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 09:52:29 PM by Randy

Larry, I was wondering what size tire is the standard for the front of a 1650 Diesel? This tractor has a loader on it and currently has 11L-15 high flotation wagon tires on it.Which would be the best? The 9.50-15 or 11-15, 3 rib Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 Front tire size

IP: 206.105.8.29 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:25:17 PM by Bubba

The manual lists several sizes. I use 4 rib implement tires on mine. Works better with the loader; doesn't slide as much.

Re(2): 1650 Front tire size

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:53:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Different conditions require different sizes. I really don't like the real wide floatation tires on a loader tractor. I think the 9.5L-15 is a good choice. Larry

Rear wheel torque on 1755

IP: 216.127.194.141 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 09:40:04 PM by Dave

Larry, Can you tell me what the torque spec. is for the bolts that fasten the cast clamps to the center cast hub on a 1755? Thanks in advance

Re(1): Rear wheel torque on 1755

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:49:42 PM by Larry Harsin

It is around 400 ft. lbs. Larry

Steering Problem

IP: 66.66.116.60 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 08:56:50 PM by Eugene Haines

Wonder if anyone has a fix for our Oliver Super 55 steering problem. The tractor turns just fine to the right but is very difficult to turn steering wheel to the left.

Re(1): Steering Problem

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:48:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like the steering box is worn out. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver Super 55 Steering Problem

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on October 12, 2003 at 02:06:40 PM by Eugene Haines

Super 55. My tractor turns just fine to the right but turning the steering wheel to the left is a major effort. Does anyone know what might be wrong?

Re(1): Oliver Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on October 13, 2003 at 06:30:55 AM by Larry Harsin

If your tractor doesn't have power steering, you could have something binding in the linkage or in the gearbox below the steering wheel. If you have power steering, something could be wrong in the control valving below the steering wheel. Larry

1250 oliver

IP: 207.190.105.169 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 06:25:50 PM by Josh BRaman

Hi I have a neighbor"s 1250 utility oliver tractor at my place that I am working on. THe problem is we are having a hard time finding parts ofr it. IT has a ga fiat motor in it. 4 cyl. WE also can"T find anything that tells us that it is for sure a 1250 or what the motor size is. Just wondering if you have any ideas where to look for the tractor model, and where to look for parts for it. THanks alot. \ Josh

Re(1): 1250 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:46:25 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1250 gas is hard to find parts for. Check with Rick's Agri Parts. Website: www.ricksagriparts.com. He has some parts and has a flyer that has specs for it listed. Also, you can check out Danny Bowes website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. Also, we have been told that Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg TN has Fiat parts 423-581-5557. The serial number for the 1250 is located on the lower left side of the instrument panel. If you want to post the serial number, we can tell you what year it was built. Larry

what tractor do I need

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 01:37:27 PM by R. Marg

I would like to know all of the oliver tractors that are 50hp or bigger I know that a 77 is 38hp at the pto and a super 77 is 41hp at the pto but what about the 88,super88,90,etc what are there H.P. ratings

Re(1): what tractor do I need

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:32:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Over 50 HP is S88, S99, the 99 4 cylinder is 50 HP, the 770 is 50 HP as is the 880 and the 990. They are 50 HP and above. The 90 doesn't have 50 HP. Larry

88/super88

IP: 66.54.1.38 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 01:34:02 PM by R. Marg

I would like to know what makes a super 88 super and what makes it differant from an 88 and also where can I find H.P. rateings on these tractors

Re(1): 88/super88

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:29:14 PM by Larry Harsin

The S88 is built heavier than the fleetline 88 and it has many improvements. The Super had flat mounting pads on the front frame for mounting newer style cultivators. The engines had various improvements including stronger crankshaft and crankcase. However, most fleetline 88's have S88 sleeves and pistons. S88's have larger exhaust valves and larger intake manifolds and carbeurators. These are just a few of the many improvements on a S88. The HP ratings are given in the Operator's Manual. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

1650 post hold digger

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 07:51:58 AM by Alan Bredbury

How much trouble is it to put a post hole digger on a 1650 industrial? How expensive? Anyone got a used one for sale?

Re(1): 1650 post hold digger

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:21:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Someone will have to fabricate a center link for the digger because the 3 pt. is different on a 1650. It shouldn't be too tough or too expensive for a welding shop to do. Larry

Re(2): 1650 post hold digger

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 06:51:13 AM by Alan Bredbury

Interesting, I checked out the back of the tractor, there is no PTO back there. Is this normal? It is an industral. I am thinking I should buy a hydraulic motor and an auger and mount the hydraulic motor where the backhoe bucket goes. A couple of new hoses with quick disconnects, a mounting bracket for the motor and a coupling from the motor to the auger and I should have a pretty good post hole digger.

Re(3): 1650 post hold digger

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on October 10, 2003 at 07:15:33 AM by Larry Harsin

That would be the way to do it. Larry

Decals 1250

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 06:57:42 AM by Tal Ward

Need decals for a 1250 are they avability any where? Tks. Tal

Re(1): Decals 1250

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 11:17:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Lyle Dumont. Email: oliver@lisco.com. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 12.231.94.26 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 00:20:34 AM by Dave

I looked at an oliver 77 with a 6 cylinder diesel and the owner needed to use starting fluid to help it get started, but after it ran and the temperature came up it ran pretty good. He said this was because the injectors may be bad. Does this sound right? Also noticed some smoke from top of valve cover breather? Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 67.2.249.161 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 06:46:10 AM by Larry Harsin

The hard starting and rough idling is typical of an engine that is "tired". It may be usable the way it is. One of the first things to check would be the injectors. If there is much blow-by (smoke) coming out of the breather, there is a good chance that this engine will have to be overhauled. Larry

1800 serial number 148-125-822

IP: 64.42.26.5 Posted on October 8, 2003 at 00:12:31 AM by doc

I am considering buying a parts tractor. This is the serial number the owner gave me and said it was an 1800 diesel. My reference says this would be a 1964 C model. Is this right, and would I get enough parts to interchange with my 1800 diesel model A(sn 113-268-886)to make it worth it? What bothers me is the owner of the other tractor also listed it as a Model #38-1232. Does this make sense? What does he have there? Thank you for your most excellent Oliver website, and you sir, are a priceless resource. doc

Re(1): 1800 serial number 148-125-822

IP: 67.2.248.35 Posted on October 8, 2003 at 07:17:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The diesel engines are different in those 2 tractors. You could change the complete engine from one to another, but not parts from one engine into the other. That Model number is listed on his serial number tag with the serial number. That tractor (1800C) has a tilt steering wheel with hydrastatic steering. There are some parts that will interchange like the front axle, the back wheels and hubs, brake parts. A lot of the parts in the transmission etc are different. There were several improvements in the transmission and hydraulic system in the C series. Larry

Re(2): 1800 serial number 148-125-822

IP: 64.42.26.5 Posted on October 8, 2003 at 10:49:55 AM by doc

Thanks for your quick and expert reply. My 1800 A (sn 113-268-886) runs perfect, clutch is great, hydra-power drive works good after I brought the fluid level up, brakes, pto, 3pt. all good. The parts I need are those you told me were interchangeable. Even though the center member on the front end is different, I need the steering arms, and tie rods. The ones on the A work ok, but they all have been welded at some time long ago. The right front wheel has a little wobble to it. A big thing to me is that someone cut the battery cover and drilled holes here and there including the fenders when mounting a cab on the A. I can't tell from pictures I've seen but it looks like the dash on the C is different, so the battery cover and top piece of sheet metal (hood?) is probably different too. The 1800 C is complete except the 3 point lower link arms and lifting links, the side tin, and the engine's 'rocker arm assembly'... Do the engines use the same fuel injector pump? Can I convert the A to a dual speed pto using the parts from the C, or is that an either/or (540 or 1000, not both) situation. The A has the powerjuster wheels, the C has the cast. I would like to make the A look and work like new, and if possible, get the C running and pulling again. But I may end up with extra parts from the C for sale or trade. Sorry I went on so long, but this is really interesting, and I've only scratched the surface. Thanks again for all your help keeping Oliver's alive. doc

Re(3): 1800 serial number 148-125-822

IP: 67.2.249.161 Posted on October 9, 2003 at 06:41:32 AM by Larry Harsin

The fuel injection pump for the A is different from the C. They may interchange though. Call Central Fuel Injection in Estherville IA, and ask them. They specialize in these old fuel systems. 712-362-4200. Neither the A or the C can be made into a dual speed 'as is'. You might be able to put a complete PTO unit from a 50 series Oliver into this tractor and make it dual speed. I don't know for sure, I havn't tried it. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. about this - 800-320-6224. Larry

1550 diesel

IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 09:08:55 PM by Jerome

I want to hook up my hydraulic lines to lift ram on my plow. There are two outlets on each side below the seat. Do I put the the hoses on the same side, for pressure and returns. Also it is running hot, only when I pull a load. There is no thermostat in it, will that make a different in it over heating, I'll have the radiator clean and try that. I'm also looking for a loader for her.

Re(1): 1550 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 10:26:45 PM by Larry Harsin

The hoses are both connected to the same side. The engine should have a good 180 degree thermostat in it. We have a 1610 Oliver loader that will fit that tractor. If you are interested in it, email us at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

242 disc harrow

IP: 12.147.155.231 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 07:11:48 PM by Claude Kilpatrick

I have a Olive model 242 disc harrow that is missing the hydrolic cylinder. Does anyone know the size of the missing cylinder? Thank you

Re(1): 242 disc harrow

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 10:23:29 PM by Larry Harsin

A standard 8 inch stroke hydraulic cylinder should work. It could be Oliver or John Deere or Case/IH or a generic one from a Farm Supply Store. If the disc is larger than 13 ft., it should probably be a 4 inch in diameter cylinder. Larry

cracked head

IP: 64.198.47.121 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 04:16:42 PM by jean

where can we find a different head here in Illinois, we are 100 miles east of St Louis MO, someone says that an engine off of a combine will bolt right up, is that true? what kind of combine? Do you suggest welding the head? if so who would you recommend and what would be an approximate cost. thanks

Re(1): cracked head

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 10:20:17 PM by Larry Harsin

You don't say what tractor you have. Get the numbers off the top of the head and email them to us. We'll see if we can help you. Larry

Oliver 1850 - Service Manual

IP: 67.39.138.3 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 03:30:57 PM by Sandy

Would you know were I could find a service manual for a oliver 1850 tractor. My husband recently purchased one and it needs some work done be we do not have any manuals for it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreated. Thanks, Sandy

Re(1): Oliver 1850 - Service Manual

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on October 7, 2003 at 10:16:40 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual and/or a Service Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email her at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

1550 parts?

IP: 66.152.128.163 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 07:25:41 PM by d

Larry could you help me with finding a 1550 gas head, and the intake. thanks.

Re(1): 1550 parts?

IP: 67.2.242.113 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 09:44:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. A 770 head will work. It has the same valves. Larry

1750

IP: 12.172.240.96 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 07:03:15 PM by elmer yale

like to know what year my 1750 is,serial no. is;,191-080-427 and what was the ''main'' purpose of the set back front end

Re(1): 1750

IP: 67.2.242.113 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 09:42:48 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1750 was built in 1967. I don't really know the reason for the set back front end. Probably to give it a shorter wheel base for working in tight places. Larry

1800 Oliver C-series

IP: 64.90.78.90 Posted on October 5, 2003 at 07:20:11 PM by Troy Mevissen

I'm looking for a cylinder head for an 1800 C-series Oliver with a 310 Waukesha engine. What other models have the same head?

Re(1): 1800 Oliver C-series

IP: 67.2.249.119 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 07:48:17 AM by Larry Harsin

I wasn't aware that the 1800C had a 310 engine. I thought they had a 283, which would be a 3 7/8 bore and a 4 inch stroke. Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. I have an 1800C gas that I am in the process of rebuilding. It might be for sale. Larry

S77 Hydraulic lift - won't lift under load

IP: 209.191.195.10 Posted on October 3, 2003 at 11:07:25 AM by Frank

Hi. I've got a '55 S77 with live hyd. lift - single cylinder. It works fine when the cylinder is operated without hookup to anything. When I put it on a small 8' tandem disc, it won't raise the disc off the ground, but it has enough pressure to lower and raise the wheels off the ground. Before I tear it all apart to check the pump, seals, plates, etc., is there anything simple and easy that can be the culprit here - like the relief valve face seat? Or is this a symptom of needing to bleed the system? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Re(1): S77 Hydraulic lift - won't lift under load

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on October 4, 2003 at 06:54:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you are going to find that you have a worn pump. Take the pump apart and see what you have. Larry

1955 value

IP: 216.106.56.114 Posted on October 2, 2003 at 08:46:16 PM by Jason Epperson

There is a 1955 row crop coming up at an auction this weekend and I was wonderign what is it worth. It has a wide front, 3 point hitch, single hydraulics. The rear tires are about 40% and solid, one new front and one that is about bald. The paint is good but the right fender has a hole torn out of the top of it about 2 inches in diameter. I started and drove the tractor today and it starts good but it does puff some whitish-blue smoke and lopes at an idle. There is evidence of oil running out of the exhaust manifold. I suspect that this tractor hasn't been run much lately and probably needs to have it ears pinned back and it will probably run alot bettter. I did notice that the low side on the over/under hydraul shift was acting like it was slipping. What causes this? What do you thnk would be a fair price? I was thinking around $4000. Was there alot of problems with the 310 diesel in the 1955 compared to the 1855? Thank you.

Re(1): 1955 value

IP: 205.188.209.74 Posted on October 2, 2003 at 09:01:56 PM by vernon Smith

I bought one in about the same shape and paid 2800 for it,after I looked it over a little closer the bypass oil filter had been removed creating extreamly high oil pressure and that blew the turbo seals making it smoke and leak oil out of the manifold where the turbo is mounted.Other than some body work and front end parts it wasnt a bad deal.Mine had 3300 hrs on it.

Re(2): 1955 value

IP: 67.2.242.69 Posted on October 3, 2003 at 07:23:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I think the cheaper price is more realistic. I would try for the $3000 range. There are possibilities with the engine and the hydraul that you could have a big repair bill. With the hydraul slipping on the low side, the unit will have to be removed and a new sprag clutch installed. There will surely be more to fix than just a sprag clutch on a unit that age. By the time you get this tractor back up in shape, you could easily have a total of $6000 invested in this tractor. Larry

Re(3): 1955 value

IP: 216.106.56.42 Posted on October 4, 2003 at 07:41:15 PM by Jason Epperson

The tractor ended up bringing $3100. I ended up not going to the sale. My neighbors went to it a told me what it brought. They told me when they started to sell the tractor the auctioneer told the crowd that the over/under was out of it and it would cost about $4000 to fix it!! A machinery jockey ended up buying it from southern Missouri.

1950 cockshutt Value

IP: 128.206.232.96 Posted on October 2, 2003 at 02:23:01 PM by C. Kerr

I wondered what a 1950 cockshutt is worth. I have located two and they are both in the $5000 range. Is there any way of finding out how many 1950's were cockshutt's as opposed to Olivers? Also, did any of the cockshutt's come out with 3 pt hitch? Thanks

Re(1): 1950 cockshutt Value

IP: 67.2.242.69 Posted on October 3, 2003 at 07:16:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, some cockshutts came out with a 3 pt. hitch. I don't know of a way to say how many were cockshutts and how many were Olivers. You could check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com. But I believe that they were all made together and no one knows. Larry

1650 reverse-o-torc

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on October 1, 2003 at 09:34:48 PM by Alan Bredbury

Ok I got the pressure up to 160 psi, rotary valve and pressure regulator were self explanitory once disassembled. When I engage reverse the pressure stays within 10 psi. When I engage forward the pressure drops to 100 psi sometimes but always at least drops 30 psi. The manual says I have clutch leakage I assume they mean the forward clutch piston. I also assume that as the clutch has been slipping the plates are going to be burned when I open it up. Questions. 1. do I have to remove the unit to rebuild the piston? 2. Can I buy a kit for rebuilding the reverse-o-torc? 3. If yes for the kit, where? about how much? Thanks. Oh, and I know, buy the parts manual before I take it apart :-).

Re(1): 1650 reverse-o-torc

IP: 67.2.249.42 Posted on October 1, 2003 at 11:03:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably have to remove it. I don't know if there is a kit. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Ask him about a kit and/or parts. Larry.

Re(2): 1650 reverse-o-torc

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on October 2, 2003 at 01:18:03 PM by Alan Bredbury

Wow, Tom is a really nice guy and very helpful. I will be calling him with all the numbers tomorrow and buying a variety of Brakes, seals and tranny parts.

1650 - 2 things

IP: 216.159.100.3 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 12:13:59 AM by Matt

Larry, I have three questions for you. 1. I am putting an auxillary set of valves on my 1650 for operating my loader. What is the most efficient way to plumb this in terms of hoses etc.? 2. Do you have any recommendations for finding a Char Lynn pump for the power steering on one of these? What is the most efficient way to tear a 1650 down to make this repair. Thanks. 3. What kind of hydraulic pressure should a 1650 have?

Re(1): 1650 - 2 things

IP: 67.2.249.123 Posted on October 1, 2003 at 07:42:07 AM by Larry Harsin

1. On the top lid of the hydraulic unit, on the left front corner, directly below the front edge of the seat, is a 1/2 inch pipe plug facing toward the front of the tractor. Remove this and back in this passage is a threaded area for a 3/8 pipe plug. Insert a plug here. You will need a socket-type plug so that you can insert the plug and tighten it. Then directly back of where you install this plug, facing the left fender, is another 1/2 inch pipe plug. It will be close to the adjustable restrictor for the left hand remote outlet. Remove this plug. The oil will return to the unit at this point. The oil comes out of the front point, then goes to the inlet side of your 2 spool valve, and then returns to the back port. 2. For a Char-Lynn pump, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. You can replace the hydramotor by disconnecting your battery and taking the instrument panel apart and going in there. 3. A 1650 should have around 2000 lbs. of pressure. Larry

Re(2): 1650 - 2 things

IP: 216.159.100.3 Posted on October 1, 2003 at 10:41:09 AM by Matt

Is the Char-Lynn conversion the best way to fix the power steering on the 1650? I have heard people mentioning getting a used pump that matches the original. What is best?

Re(3): 1650 - 2 things

IP: 67.2.249.119 Posted on October 6, 2003 at 07:52:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know which is best.....just whatever you find that has a price on it that you can live with and it works. Did you check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224? Larry

Re(1): 1650 - 2 things

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 08:42:49 PM by Alan Bredbury

The backhoe attachment on my 1650 machine has 3000 psi bypass on the valves. Be carefull.

Re(1): 1650 - 2 things

IP: 206.105.8.226 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 02:36:25 PM by Bubba

The service manual has the correct pressure readings and the procedure to check them. You'll need it to do the teardown anyway.

Model 88

IP: 158.116.158.130 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 11:39:02 AM by Bob

Larry, my old push starter switch on my Model 88 burned up so I bought a replacement but it does not have any distinguishing markings on it to tell where to hook up BATT. Can you think of a way? Thanks

Re(1): Model 88

IP: 67.2.240.174 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 08:12:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Hook it up the same as the one you took off. The neg terminal of the battery goes to the top post. A jumper wire from the top post will go over to the ammeter. The cable that goes to the starter will go to the bottom post. Larry

77 throttle spring?

IP: 65.40.137.157 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 07:03:50 AM by Wade (PA)

I am in need of a new throttle/governer spring on my Oliver 77. This is the one on the left side of the motor and connects the governer and the rod to the throttle lever. Can these still be bought new? or available through someone? also, would a 770 spring be heavier than the 77 spring? Thx

Re(1): 77 throttle spring?

IP: 67.2.248.7 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 07:14:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you can still get them new. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I think the 770 spring is the same. Larry

88 distibutor

IP: 216.138.29.45 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 10:20:10 PM by Andy

Was there a bushing in the distributor housing ,my distributor shaft is so loose the points aren't ever the same gap, if a bushing is available i would try it rather than the electronic conversion

Re(1): 88 distibutor

IP: 67.2.248.7 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 07:11:29 AM by Larry Harsin

There is not a bushing available. Besides a worn bushing, you probably have a worn shaft. Take it apart and see what is worn. If the shaft is o.k., a machine shop may be able to install a new bushing and fit it properly. Otherwise, you will have to look for a good used distributor for that engine. If that is what you need, I may have one. I'll check and you can email me if you need it. When looking for a replacement distributor, take the numbers off of your old one so that the replacement will be the correct one. Larry

slowing down my tractor

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on September 28, 2003 at 06:46:34 PM by Roger Anderson

I have a 1944 70RC oliver and it runs to fast to do any work with it,like bushoging,disking,or lets not even talk about plowing. Is there anyway to slowdown the forward motion,perhaps by changing the gear ratio in first gear or even the rearend gear ratio? This model only has three forward gears.

Re(1): slowing down my tractor

IP: 67.2.249.17 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 07:32:31 AM by Larry Harsin

An Oliver 70 has either 4 gears forward and one reverse or 6 gears forward and one reverse. I never heard of a 3 gear 70. I don't understand what you have. Perhaps it would help if you would email a picture to me. Larry

Re(2): slowing down my tractor

IP: 216.106.56.49 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 08:47:19 PM by Jason Epperson

Several years ago we had a 1947 70 row crop that we bought. The guy said it was geared to fast to do anything. I sold it to a friend of mine who restored it. We found out that the transmission would not go into the forward set of gears beacause the input shaft was broken and would not let the gears slide onto the other rails. It would not go into gears: 1,2 or 5. It would go into reverse,3,4 and 6. After we changed the input shaft everything worked fine. I would take the top cover off of the transmission and have a look inside.

Super 88

IP: 65.124.251.96 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 08:34:30 PM by Don

Can someone give me the dimensions of the 1956 Super 88. I am having one shipped and need some information. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Super 88

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 10:45:44 PM by Larry Harsin

The weight of a S88 is 5250 lbs. It is approx. 7 1/2 ft, high, 11 ft long and 8 ft wide. Larry

spec. manuals

IP: 208.44.226.81 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 07:57:01 PM by R .Miller

Dear Larry, i'm looking for a manual,or manuals for specifications such as bore, stroke ,vavle size,carb.size,compression,horsepower,and cubic inch for a 77-1850 on all models(ie gas,desiel,lp)? Thanks for the great site! Rod

Re(1): spec. manuals

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 10:42:58 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get Operator's Manuals, Shop Manuals and Parts Manuals for everything that Oliver ever built at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Oliver 770 intake/exhaust manifold

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 01:40:26 PM by Mike Renner

Larry is there a recommened torque setting for tightening the intake/exhaust manifold. I just replaced the manifold gaskets & don't want to leave them to loose or overtighten them. Thank you. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 770 intake/exhaust manifold

IP: 206.105.8.10 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 03:32:03 PM by Bubba

What does the service manual say?

Re(2): Oliver 770 intake/exhaust manifold

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on September 27, 2003 at 10:39:04 PM by Larry Harsin

They are actually just snugged up nice like 25 - 30 ft. pounds. Larry

1987 s15

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on September 25, 2003 at 09:37:43 PM by dave

I replaced a serpentine belt yesterday on my son's 1987 s15 and today the belt is about halfway frayed where it is getting eaten up. What would cause that? Any idea?

Re(1): 1987 s15

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on September 25, 2003 at 10:13:15 PM by Larry Harsin

There has to be something out of alignment or the belt is rubbing on something. Larry

Re(1): 1987 s15

IP: 206.105.8.6 Posted on September 26, 2003 at 09:36:47 AM by Bubba

Idler pulley froze, tensioner broke, belt damaged during installation, wrong belt routing.

1555 Oliver

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 03:11:28 PM by Jim

I have a 1555 Oliver with power steering and a tricycle front end.I would to know what different wide front ends will work on my tractor. Thanks Jim

Re(1): 1555 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 07:12:59 PM by Larry Harsin

A wide front off of a 1650, 1750 or an 1850 will work. Larry

50's OC4 Crawler

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 07:55:30 PM by Tim Goode

My father-in-law is a retired lumberman who has a working OC4 crawler gas dozer that is in excellent running condition. Someone has approached him about buying it and his sawmill, I am trying to get input from knowledgable people as to the worth of the tractor,so he doesn't get taken.Any help would be appriciated.

Re(1): 50's OC4 Crawler

IP: 67.2.248.38 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 00:36:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd say it is worth approx. $4000 depending on how it is equipped and it's condition. Larry

Tractor Weights

IP: 65.172.9.72 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 07:45:56 PM by Jim

I was wondering if you knew the approxiament total weight in pounds of a Super 88 Diesel. Thanks.

Re(1): Tractor Weights

IP: 67.2.248.38 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 00:35:03 AM by Larry Harsin

It is approx. 5000 lbs. Larry

backhoe valves

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 09:35:23 PM by Alan Bredbury

Ok I got the valve assembly out, dropped it on my wrist in the process, that hurt like a b**ch it is heavy! Someone in this forum told me that the valves only required O-rings to rebuild. Perhaps they were mistaken? My valve assembly seems to have seals at the top and bottom of each valve. the 6 valve assembly is a Gressen brand with the numbers P112A and 1714 65 on it. I am going to try to find the seals tomorrow but any input would be appreciated, where to get them or if they can be replaced with O-rings. Generally I assume if there are seals in an assembly there is a reason they were used instead of O-rings. Thanks.

Re(1): backhoe valves

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 11:29:20 AM by Bubba

Seals and O-rings are different animals, just like you said. Any shop that rebuilds hydraulic equiqment can sell them to you. Better yet, if you are near a city large enough to have an "industrial supply" shop, most seals and O-rings are commodity items. These guys can usually match them up pretty quick and not charge you and arm and a leg either.

Re(2): backhoe valves

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 08:23:18 PM by Alan Bredbury

So far my search has been like trying to find a needle in a hay stack. No one seems to be able to look the seals up by the brand and valve number. One place said give me the valve assembly and I will find the seals and rebuild it for you, I did not bother to ask for a price, In connecticut I am sure I would be looking at $500 - $1,000. I found a place on line that will make them custom for me if I send one in. for about $100 each, I need 12. I am going to try a couple of places that the maintaince guy at our plant gave me tomorrow. Seems to me these seals should not be worth more than a couple of dollars each. In the mean time I am going to bore all the levers oversize and make up an oversize shaft to mount them on. I am also bushing all the control rods to take the slop out of them. Any further input on seal sourcing or kits for these valves would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(3): backhoe valves

IP: 206.105.8.115 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 06:21:31 AM by Bubba

Seals and O-rings are commodity items. It does not matter who made them or on what piece of equipment they are used. Your best best is to just take them to an industrial supply shop, lay them on the counter, and say, "sell me some new ones". They have sizing charts and can match them up pretty quick.

Re(3): backhoe valves

IP: 206.105.8.115 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 06:31:08 AM by Bubba

Regarding O-rings... place like Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, and others often sell O-ring assortments. I think I paid $30 for 1,000 of them several years ago.

Re(4): backhoe valves

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on September 25, 2003 at 12:56:23 AM by Alan Bredbury

Answering my own question in case anyone is in the archives looking. for Oliver backhoe 1714 65 valve assembly 6 spool the correct seal is DSU12-0.87-12 or for the fancier loaded seal U12-0.87-SQB from Hercules Hydraulics 1-800-777-5617. My cost with discount because of the family tool shop for 14 pieces (got a couple to drop) ~$15 plus ~$15 for overnight shipping. These part numbers where chosen by their engineer after I faxed a sketch of the valve assembly with dimensions and gave him the operating pressures. These are somewhat special because of the high operating pressure. If you just go anywhere and buy a 80 durometer rubber cup seal it will not hold up they are only rated to 1000 psi. I believe that is why my unit was leaking so bad.

Re(5): backhoe valves

IP: 67.2.249.17 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 07:35:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for adding this important information to our Archives. Larry

rocker arm ticking

IP: 216.106.56.85 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 08:25:30 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I'm back again with another question about my 1800. I have put around 3 hours on this tractor after overhaul and I pulled the valve cover back off and re adjusted the valves and retourqued the head bolts. I have a tick coming from the exhaust valve on the number 1 cylinder. I set the clearances by the book and was wondering if this will hurt anything. I suspect that the rocker arm could be bent a little bit. It isn't real loud, just annoying. What do you think?

Re(1): rocker arm ticking

IP: 206.105.8.230 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 07:44:51 AM by Bubba

If it ticked upon start-up after the overhaul and no amount of adjustment helps, replace the rocker arm. If it has just start ticking since the last adjustment, you might try adjusting it again. If it keeps getting louder, you may be wearing the lobe of the cam (lack of assembly lube, wrong lifter), or may have assembled the engine with old valve train parts and they were not replaced in exactly the same spot they cam from. Whenever lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, nuts are removed to be reused, they must go back to the same valve they came from or you'll be readjusting constantly until they all wear in together.

Re(2): rocker arm ticking

IP: 216.106.56.81 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 08:56:15 AM by Jason Epperson

When I rebuilt the engine, I took the rocker arm assembly to the machine shop to have the rocker arms refaced. When I got them back, they were put together wrong so I had to take them back apart and put them back in the right place so it is possible that the rocker arms are in a different place than original. It started ticking immediately after starting after the overhaul.

Re(3): rocker arm ticking

IP: 206.105.8.115 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 06:14:07 AM by Bubba

I'd replace the rocker arm and push rod for that valve. Readjust it after a couple of hours of running. If it still ticks, then the problem is likely with the cam lobe.

Re(3): rocker arm ticking

IP: 172.172.202.97 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 00:07:54 AM by douglas wenig

you may want to remove and check the push rod to make sure it is perfectly straight as even a slight bend will let it flex when it opens the valve and that changes the clearance to test it roll it on a perfectly flat surface and if it has any wobble to it at all replace it

Re(4): rocker arm ticking

IP: 216.106.56.32 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 07:40:54 PM by Jason Epperson

I checked all of the pushrods when I put the engine together. This engine dropped a valve on the #1 cylinder and broke the piston and sleeve. That is why I had to overhaul it. I might try a different rocker arm and push rod anyway though. Thank you

1365 Diesel Starter

IP: 12.221.234.24 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 08:02:43 PM by Scott

Was curious if anyone has ever changed the starter on a 1977 1365 Diesel. I took a look at my father in law's tractor this weekend and only could find two bolts holding the starter on, am I missing something? Also, if anyone has any ideas on where to find a reman starter I'd appreciate some input on that....thanks.

Re(1): 1365 Diesel Starter

IP: 67.2.248.38 Posted on September 24, 2003 at 00:29:46 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1365 Oliver was built in Italy by Fiat. We have been told that Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg TN has some Fiat/Oliver parts 423-581-5557. Check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

Re(2): 1365 Diesel Starter

IP: 68.155.7.19 Posted on September 30, 2003 at 09:31:10 PM by George Steadman

We replaced ours 3 or 4 years ago, I think, the bolt pattern sounds right. Good luck on a reman, we ended up buying a new one from Agco for 520.00. It turned out to be the best investment we could have made. It improved the starting by at least 60%. We figured one starter every 26 years it wasn't too bad of a deal.

770 Steering wheel

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:52:13 PM by Mike Renner

Larry I'm trying to pull my steering wheel off with no luck so far. I have a 3 jaw puller that I think is plenty big enough, but the jaws don't seem to have enough of a bend or hook to them to reach underneath of the steering wheel. Is there a special puller for this job or do I need special jaws? Thank you for any help you can give me. Mike Renner

Re(1): 770 Steering wheel

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:54:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I use an air chisel and come in from the back side of the steering wheel and get right onto the hub. It will pop right off of there. Heating the hub a bit will help also. Larry

Oliver backhoe

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 06:41:49 PM by Alan Bredbury

I have an Oliver backhoe and the wrong manual. I am in the process of removing the valve assembly, and making an oily mess of my keyboard. I removed the hose for the middle cylinder (not the lift or dipper cylinder) Not sure of the correct name. I found that there is a flow restrictor in the bottom hole of the valve. Theoretically what purpose does it serve? Or is this the wrong place for the question this a a tractor forum not a hydraulic theory class. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver backhoe

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:52:15 PM by Larry Harsin

:-) :-) Are you answering your own question?? If that restrictor is in there, you better leave it alone. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Backhoe

Alan, I know this reply is late, but restrictor valves are installed to purposly slow cylinder movement. These are normally found on one side of the main boom cylinder circuit where the weight of the assembly would make it drop down way too fast for a delicate touch when needed. They also may be employed in the swing cylinders. As Larry says, leave it alone. Also, did you find your seals? I know a place in NJ that may be able to help you out. Mike

77 generator

IP: 67.29.210.60 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 10:23:52 AM by steve

Larry I have a 77 that someone has put a alternator on. I would like to put a generator back on so the side curtain will fit properly. I also want to keep it 12 volts neg. ground. Do you have a good used generator or a core that I could take to my rebuilder. thanks Steve.

Re(1): 77 generator

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:49:52 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't have one. If you want to keep that more original, you want a 12 volt positive ground with a generator. You can get a generator from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. Larry

Super 88 - Starter Switch

IP: 158.116.158.130 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 09:29:51 AM by Bob

Larry, I had to replace the original push starter switch on my 1958 Super 88 Gas tractor. The new switch is not marked with BAT or SOL. Is there a way to determine how it should be hooked up or does it matter?

Re(1): Super 88 - Starter Switch

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:45:55 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1958 S88 didn't have a push starter on it originally. Did you get the same switch as you are taking out? Send us the serial number to make sure you have a 1958 S88. Larry

Re(2): Super 88 - Starter Switch

IP: 158.116.158.130 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 04:28:06 PM by Bob

Larry, the tractor (and serial number) is at my ranch. I won't be going back until the weekend of Oct 4th. My memory may not be so good but in looking at various models of Olivers from the book "Oliver Farm Tractors" by T. Herbert Morrell and Jeff Hackett, my tractor looks like the 1950 Standard 88on page 69, with the dash panel like the picture on page 64. Maybe you have the book? The switch I bought was from an auto electric company and was an identical match. Can you offer any solutions? Thanks for your help.

Re(3): Super 88 - Starter Switch

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on October 15, 2003 at 09:20:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Just hook it up like the one you removed. Larry

550 wheel hubs

IP: 207.67.12.161 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 08:22:03 AM by Greg

Hello; Trying to get the three U-bolts off my rear axle hubs to rehabilitate. They're really rusted tight. Been doing the heat & beat with cutting oil to no avail. Hub sinks away too much heat. Any tricks or suggestions?? If I cut these off and drive them out is there anywhere I can purchase replacements?

Re(1): 550 wheel hubs

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:35:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have to do that. You can get replacements from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 industrial color

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 08:54:24 PM by Alan Bredbury

What was the original color of a 1650 diesel industrial oliver. I am going to be removing parts and while I have things apart I usually sand blast and paint as I go. Engine color too please. I prefer to use Rustolem if they have the color. Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 industrial color

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 10:28:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Look on your tractor in places where the paint was protected. I would say it was Federal Highway Yellow. Take a paint chip to your paint store. There is a color called Old Caterpiller Yellow, but I would think it would be the first one. The engine is the same as the tractor. Larry

1650 reverse-o-torc

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 08:51:13 PM by Alan Bredbury

I have a manual and am about to start rebuilding hydraulic valves and trouble shooting the drive unit on my 1650. Reverse on the reverse-o-torc works fine. Forward engages but slips sometimes and sometimes engages later, much later than expected. I have adjusted the pedals best I can considering the random engagment in forward. Fluid level is correct. I have reconnected the gauges and they work, the torque converter is not overheating. I see in the manual several trouble shooting steps involving the use of a pressure gauge. Components like a Converter charging valve and converter pressure regulator are mentioned but the locations of these do not seem to be well defined in the manual. Are these accessable with the unit in the tractor? Can I change clutch plates in the tractor (I doubt it). What is a reasonable time estimate for reverse-o-torc removal and reinstall? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 reverse-o-torc

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 10:24:29 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to test the pressures with the unit in the tractor. It should show in the manual how to do it. As far as replacing clutch plates, the unit will have to be pulled out of the tractor. I would say it would take a full 8 hr. day. Larry

88mainbearings

IP: 207.68.99.54 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 08:20:47 PM by Dan H.

1949 88 Are the mains shimmed? I put new bearings in , plastigauged at .001, and the crank won't turn. The caps are in the right order.

Re(1): 88mainbearings

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 10:20:29 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That was probably shimmed. You will have to get some shim packs from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or some dealer of your choice. Larry

Re(1): 88mainbearings

IP: 206.105.8.245 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 02:48:52 AM by Bubba

Without knowing more about the engine's history it's impossible to say exactly what the problem is. But I can tell you this: shims should never be used. I'd take the block, caps, main bearings and crank to a machine shop and have them align bore the mains. They can also check the crank for being straight. Bring the service manual with so they can get the sizes correct.

Re(2): 88mainbearings

IP: 209.158.24.139 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 05:50:22 PM by Dan H.

Thanks Larry.

Re(3): 88mainbearings

IP: 67.2.249.242 Posted on September 22, 2003 at 07:33:24 PM by Larry Harsin

On early model Fleetline tractors, use Shim pack 1K-103 for 88 series engines. This is from the Oliver Shop printed by the Oliver Corp. The early 88's were shimmed at the factory. Larry

Re(4): 88mainbearings

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on September 23, 2003 at 11:20:13 AM by Bubba

These are bearing shims, right? His problem was that the crank would not turn without shims, meaning he would need to increase the clearance by using cap shims. I believe that's what he was asking. Cap shims are a bad idea for lots of reasons which is why I suggested he get it align bored. That's standard shop procedure whenever when a crank won't turn with the correct bearings and correct cap bolt torque.

Re(5): 88mainbearings

IP: 207.68.99.145 Posted on September 26, 2003 at 08:35:25 PM by Dan H.

Larry, Tom O'brien can't get the shims any more. Can you get them? Or should I just cut them out of shim stock myself?

Re(6): 88mainbearings

IP: 67.2.249.17 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 07:37:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Just cut them out of shim stock. Larry

535 combine

IP: 216.138.55.72 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 07:59:34 PM by oliver farmer

hi larry, not sure if you can help but am going to try anyway. my combine came with a v-8. it has been replaced with a different v-8 from a 545(he said). it has the saw tooth valve covers, not the straight ones like on a 7300. i don't have anything like what the firing order is or which cylinder is #1,#2 and so on. i also don't know what the timing should be or where the mark is. (i assume it is on the front cover under the water pump). also, i can't find the serial # of the engine, don't know where to look. i changed the oil yesterday and today after it started i heard what i thought was a tappet ticking. so, i removed the valve cover on one side and not just one but two valves are not opening, the rocker arms aren't even touching them. i tightened the small adjusting bolt as far as it would go and still the valves aren't opening hardly at all. i can feel the cam lob when i push on the rocker, but i am wondering if the lifter has somehow lost its prime? i see in the only book that i have(it is a 545 engine parts book for the v-8 form #448025) that the early engines used a mechanical lifter or a hydrolic one. if it is mechanical, can i replace all 16 with hydrolic ones? if you can help with any of this i would be in your debt. thanks for any help you can give. chuck brammeier

Re(1): 535 combine

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 10:18:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any information on that engine or any parts books or anything. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Perhaps he can help you. Larry

paint colors

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 02:40:45 PM by Shane Koopman

My father-in-law is looking for the original colors of an Oliver 99 walk-n-plow and a Planet Junior horse cultivator, if you know one or both of these that would be wonderful. Thank-you

Re(1): paint colors

IP: 67.2.248.92 Posted on September 21, 2003 at 06:53:44 PM by Larry Harsin

In the Sept/Oct 2003 issue of the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine, there is a letter and pictures of an Oliver horse-drawn walking plow collection. All in the picture are painted red. I really don't know the answer to your question. Perhaps you should contact Sherry Schaefer, Editor, and check this out. Her email is: sherry@oliverinformation.com. Larry

Oil

IP: 66.190.135.166 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 01:01:13 PM by Larry

I have a cockshutt 30 and would like to know what weight oil goes in the belt pulley housing and the pto, and where the plugs are located on the tractor to drain them and fill them back up again. Thanks if you can help.

Re(1): Oil

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 10:26:03 PM by Larry Harsin

You need to get an Operator's Manual for your tractor. You can get one from the Charles City Museum. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. I would guess that it uses 80 - 90 transmission oil. Larry

finding rear tires

IP: 68.18.97.142 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 08:51:34 AM by trapper

I am unable to locate rear tires for my Oliver, size 13.6X26. Any suggestions ?

Re(1): finding rear tires

IP: 206.105.8.61 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 02:10:28 PM by Bubba

www.millertire.com

Oliver 55 Rear Rims Where?

IP: 68.62.210.80 Posted on September 19, 2003 at 11:20:03 PM by Rich Milton

I'm in need of a replacement rear rim. One is rusted badly. These are spinouts rims and measure 12" X 26". Does any one know where I may aquire one or both? Thanks for any help.

Re(1): Oliver 55 Rear Rims Where?

IP: 206.105.8.188 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 04:29:34 AM by Bubba

Try www.millertire.com

Re(2): Oliver 55 Rear Rims Where?

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 07:33:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Try Rock Valley Tractor Parts (Salvage). 800-831-8543. They may have a used one. Larry

crankshaft from 66

IP: 206.230.105.248 Posted on September 19, 2003 at 08:52:18 PM by Dennis Rausch

My neighbor has a 66 Oliver which is breaking crankshafts. He has had it since new but has broken 4 of them in recent years and he doesn't know what is wrong. The last time he had the engine line bored and had it ground for a super 66 crank. It always seems to break between #3 and #4. What does he need to do next?

Re(1): crankshaft from 66

IP: 206.105.8.188 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 04:48:44 AM by Bubba

Excessive thrust bearing wear, usually due to the operator riding the clutch or not adjusting the clutch freeplay correctly is one cause. Excessive main bearing clearance and/or poor oil pressure (worn oil pump, usually) is another. Oil contaiminated with coolant from a block/head crack is a possibility. Not getting the engine and transmission properly aligned due to faulty pilot bearing/bushing installation is another. A guaranteed way to destroy the thrust bearing is to hammer the pulley on the crankshaft snout. Wrong main bearing bolt torque, reusing old bolts, block web crack, etc. are other less likley causes.

Re(2): crankshaft from 66

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 07:31:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Another thing that could do it is using oversized pistons and trying to get too much power out of that engine. Larry

1650

IP: 68.60.214.149 Posted on September 19, 2003 at 08:24:55 PM by Alan Bredbury

I have a set of service manuals for my tractor now but I got the wrong one for the backhoe attachment. I have looked carefully for a serial number tag on the attachment and I can not find one. The manual I got is form number 432557 White manual from 1972. The manual I got shows a set of 4 valves and another set of three control valves; the stabilizer controls are next to each other in the manual I recieved. On my attachment the valve set is a single pack of 6 valves with the stabilizer controls on the outside right and left. There is a 1617 2/78-4/78 not exactly in that format on the cover of the manual for the backhoe. Can anyone tell me that the correct numbers or number would be for the manual that goes with my attachment? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on September 20, 2003 at 07:28:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I think if you'd send that manual back to Mary Ann and tell her what you have, she would help you find the correct manual. The phone number of the Museum is 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 1850 diesel

IP: 65.181.16.246 Posted on September 18, 2003 at 06:52:36 PM by Jerry Ballard

I'm looking at a 1850 diesel. What is the horsepower and is the pto "live". Also what is "dual power"? The tractor has a cab and appears to be in pretty good condition. Is $4,000 a reasonable price? Thanks, Jerry.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on September 18, 2003 at 10:15:13 PM by Larry Harsin

It is 92 HP. The PTO is live. Dual power is the 2 speed hydra-power - you have high and low in each gear. $4000 is reasonable if the tractor is complete and in good shape and runs properly. Larry

770 exhaust manifold

IP: 198.81.26.13 Posted on September 17, 2003 at 10:09:10 PM by Matt Shiffrar

I HAVE A LATE MODEL 770 ROW CROP TRACTOR W/CULTIVATOR BARS AND HYDRAULICS.I HAVE A PROBLEM WITHE THE FRONT 3 CYLINDERS MISFIRING. TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT I LOOKED DOWN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND NOTICED THAT THERE WAS A PIECE OF BRASS W AN OVAL HOLE ABOVE IT SEEMINGLY BLOCKING THE FRONT THRE CYLINDERS FROM LETTING GASSES ESCAPE. WHAT IS THIS AND SHOULD IT SLIDE OR FLIP OR WHAT.

Re(1): 770 exhaust manifold

IP: 67.2.248.74 Posted on September 17, 2003 at 10:11:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what that is. I would try to get it out. Then see what the deal is. Larry

Re(2): 770 exhaust manifold

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on September 18, 2003 at 11:33:56 AM by Larry from MD

My guess would be that they are manifold gaskets.oliver had a problem with some bad ones.People often get them messed up and if the intakes are missing the engine will miss.

5.9 cummins

IP: 12.173.109.204 Posted on September 17, 2003 at 04:20:59 PM by Ben

Ive offten heard of different people puting a 5.9 cummins in there olivers will a 1550 take the abuse of it and what would i have to do to make it fit in? any info would help. thanks alot

Re(1): 5.9 cummins

IP: 67.2.248.74 Posted on September 17, 2003 at 10:09:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I would not reccommend putting a 5.9 Cummins in a 1550. The engine frame is not big enough and the transmission and differential is not heavy enough. Larry

Re(1): 5.9 cummins

IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on September 19, 2003 at 10:55:45 AM by Shep VA

I have put a 5.9L Cummins into a 1655 before and the engine is set to 85 HP on the PTO of the tractor. You can set the power of the Cummins engines very easily and you would not want to be pushing a lot of HP through a 1550 but it can be done if you use your head. The 5.9L engine is a tight fit in a 1655 and would likely be so in a 1550 as well. You might want to consider using the 3.9L 4 cylinder Cummins. I have seen a 1650 Olvier with this set up and it works nice, except the engine was shorter. The tractor I saw they moved the radiator back to make the shorter engine work with the fan, but I always thought if I used that engine I would put an electric fan on the radiator and be done with it. Just some thoughts, check out my site, I show some Olivers that I have converted to Cummins Power. Sheps World

77 gas RPMs

IP: 66.152.128.95 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 07:55:22 PM by d.mars

I have a 1954 "77" gas used for pulling only. what if anything could be done in order to keep my rpms up at the end of the pull? I am turning more than stock now. but at 5500lbs it still drops to 700rpm. any suggestion? thanks.

Re(1): 77 gas RPMs

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 08:55:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm assuming that you have oversized sleeves and pistons. You may have to increase your cubic inches with larger pistons. You could put a larger carb on it. You could install a 770 cylinder head with larger valves to have more power. These are just a few ideas. I'm not a puller. I just restore. Larry

Oliver 1650 manifolds

IP: 216.120.184.2 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 11:21:10 AM by Don Thompson

Hi Larry ,I just purchased my first Oliver and I love it. It is a 1969 1650 gas w/wide front end. I'm looking for a new intake and exhaust manifolds with the gaskets. Do you know where I could locate these. I love your site and thanks in advance.

Re(1): Oliver 1650 manifolds

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 08:50:42 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 manifolds

IP: 216.120.184.2 Posted on September 25, 2003 at 01:39:57 PM by Don Thompson

Thanks Larry, I talked to Valu-Bilt and already have the new manifolds. I do have another question however. Do you know where I could get a set of the manifold hold downs ( rods and tops )? I'm not sure what you would exactly call these but a couple of them are in real poor shape. Thanks again.

Re(3): Oliver 1650 manifolds

IP: 67.2.249.17 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 07:41:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe you are talking about the clamps. I may have what you need if you will email me with a little more information about exactly what they are and which ones. Are you referring to the stud bolts that secure the manifold and the clamps? I may have these. Email is: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Temp gauge won't work

IP: 216.106.56.33 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 07:47:24 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I finally have my 1800 all back together and everything sounds real good, I have one problem though; my temp gauge won't work. I put in a new sending unit and I checked the voltage on both sides of the gauge. I have 13.5 volts on one side and 4.8 volts on the other side. I have 4.8 volts at the sending unit also. What do you think? Thank you.

Re(1): Temp gauge won't work

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 05:43:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd replace the guage itself. It's probably goofy. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

manifold preheater on 1650

IP: 205.217.67.116 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 03:45:50 PM by Alan Wernette

I just discovered a problem with my diesel 1650 that I just purchased and currently fixing up. The motor was rebuilt 5 years ago and a new head was put on. What I found out was that the intake manifold, for some reason also changed at the time, has no preheater and no place to install one??? The wiring and switch are there. Is this an aftermarket intake manifold and do I need to find a good used original manifold to get this hooked up again? Especially here in Michigan I'll want the preheater to work! If I do need to get another intake manifold to properly put on the preheater do you have a used one? Lastly, the wiring on this tractor is pretty rough shape and thus I'm going to replace it. Again, the previous owner made some modifications by shortcutting. It is easy enough to follow on the service manual diagram except for the diagram is not clear on the connections at the starter. Could you help me make this a little more clear. The engine serial number is 133950 and tractor serial number is 189-746-456. Thank You and have a good day!

Re(1): manifold preheater on 1650

IP: 206.105.8.140 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 06:57:01 PM by Bubba

Per my 1650 At the starter: 1) pink wire from ignition switch "S" terminal to solenoid "S" terminal. 2) red wire from "-" side of ammeter goes to the large terminal on the starter. 3) positive battery cable goes to the large terminal on the starter. 4) The preheat switch wire also goes to the large terminal on starter. 5) The "I" terminal on the solenoid is not used.

Re(2): manifold preheater on 1650

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on September 16, 2003 at 05:40:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I wonder if someone put a different engine in that tractor. If you want, email us a picture with the intake manifold showing. There wasn't an aftermarket one. Bubba explained the wiring for you. Larry

Re(3): manifold preheater on 1650

IP: 136.181.195.123 Posted on September 25, 2003 at 04:58:31 PM by Alan Wernette

I talked to Tom at O'Brian County Impliments and he was able to figure out what was done in the overhaul. He mentioned I have a newer head and that it will work fine but I need to rewire the preheater wire so it reaches to the front of the newer air intake manifold that fits this newer head. He told me where the preheater is located on this newer head which is near the front and around in back. Thanks for guiding me his way over the phone.

Re(4): manifold preheater on 1650

IP: 67.2.249.17 Posted on September 29, 2003 at 07:46:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for letting us know what you found out. Larry

88 trans

IP: 24.140.68.74 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 00:23:24 AM by Tracey

I have an 88 with a very fast trans the quadrants are reversed and all the gears seem to be twice as fast. Years ago when we had Oliver dealer an old timer told me that this was a service bulletin from oliver you had to buy one or two gears and move some of the others around. Now no one has a clue about this. I was wondering if anyone knows anything and if the collectors would have any interest in this?

Re(1): 88 trans

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 06:49:50 AM by Larry Harsin

What you have is an Industrial Transmission. It tells about it in the Oliver Service Manual for 88's. It is also shown in the parts books for those tractors. Larry

Hart-Parr Oliver Plowshare Radiator Caps

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on September 14, 2003 at 05:45:17 PM by Sue

HELP !!! I visited the Penfield Illinois Oliver Show which featured a company from Ontario Canada that refurbished Hart Parr Oliver Plowshare Radiator Caps. I did not get their name. I need to order a Christmas gift for my favorite Oliver Restorer. Anyone know the company?? Thanks

Re(1): Hart-Parr Oliver Plowshare Radiator Caps

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 06:47:01 AM by Larry Harsin

That was Bill Campbell, PO Box 203, Kinmount ON KOM 2AO I don't have a phone number. He winters in Fla, but he should still be in Ontario. Larry

550 Transmission oil

IP: 66.11.105.76 Posted on September 14, 2003 at 12:13:03 AM by Gary

Hi Larry, I have been using 80-90 gear lub in the transmission of my 550 but there is a lot of drag in the winter after startup and until it warms up. Somewhere I read says to use 10W30 but I'm concerned with leaks with the lighter oil. But I'm also concerned about improper lubrication using the 80-90 gear oil. What's your opinion? Thanks, Gary

Re(1): 550 Transmission oil

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on September 14, 2003 at 02:32:23 PM by Ollie

Use the weight the book calls for. I use synthetic Mobil 1 which completely solves the winter problem.

Re(2): 550 Transmission oil

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 06:35:40 AM by Larry Harsin

I would do what the book says - use 80-90. Otherwise, this synthetic sounds good. Larry

Silverking ?

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 05:32:25 PM by Larry from MD

I never seen one like that does it have a model number or serial number? At 216 ci that engine is much larger than the 133ci herk or the 142 con.

Re(1): Silverking ?

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 08:14:43 PM by Larry Harsin

This Silverking was repowered with a Chevrolet engine many years ago. At the end of WWII they couldn't get the proper engine, so a blacksmith installed this engine in it. Larry

Re(2): Silverking ?

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on September 14, 2003 at 04:46:07 PM by Larry from MD

It looks like a R66 between 1935 and 1938.

Re(3): Silverking ?

IP: 67.2.249.232 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 06:33:04 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you are right. Larry

Horse Drawn Plow

IP: 68.18.92.22 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 02:20:50 PM by Walt Scaff

I recently purchased a horse drawn plow which is marked "Oliver" on the back of the small upper blade. It is also marked 95B-L Chatanooga on the back of the lower main blade. Is this the same as the tractor company? Any idea as to its' age? It is now painted solid red; what color scheme would make it more authentic? Thanks!

Re(1): Horse Drawn Plow

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 08:11:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I think there was another plow company named Oliver in Tennessee, so there is a chance that it wasn't the same Oliver Co. Check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Oliver 70 Standard

IP: 210.50.30.22 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 08:30:19 PM by Garry Howe

Hi. We have an Oliver 70 Standard. It has an arcing crack in the distributor cap (bakelite cap) between 2 and 4 outlets. How can we repair this. Tried superglue but it would not set any sugestions. Rgds

Re(1): Oliver 70 Standard

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 09:08:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I would simply get a new distributor cap. I am assuming that your tractor has a Delco-Remy distributor. Most automotive supply stores will have this. Take your cap with you and show it to them. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 70 Standard

IP: 203.28.69.162 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 00:25:12 AM by Garry Howe

Have looked around to try and buy new cap, but am unable to get one at this stage, live in small town in australia which cannot get new cap as yet. Am not using tractor for work but restoring it . Thought there migh be a simple way of fixing it or glueing the crack up.

Re(3): Oliver 70 Standard

IP: 67.2.248.58 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 06:34:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. in Sheldon Iowa 712-324-4871. He will send one to you. Larry

Oliver 1250 gas

IP: 68.158.75.100 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 08:14:43 PM by RICH P

I seem to be having problems with the fuel system. I think I am having a vapor lock. I will run for aprox. 30 to 45 minutes, and the powerplant chokes down and dies. The fuel bowl has fuel in it and is full when this happens. When I shut off the fuel and empty and reinstall the bowl it will not refill. Then I will remove the bowl and open the fuel valve and fuel flows. It will run fine once I let it cool down for and hour or so. Any input to correct this problem would be great. It maybe something else but I think this is the problem

Re(1): Oliver 1250 gas

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 09:05:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Make sure that the fuel tank cap is venting. Simply loosen it to see. If the cap is faulty, get a new one. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1250 gas

IP: 205.174.22.21 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 04:36:47 AM by rich

I have done this and It was no help. I do not know what type of fuel line was installed orginaly or its routing but someone has installed a soft rubber line.

Re(3): Oliver 1250 gas

IP: 206.105.8.230 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 05:55:24 AM by Ollie

Usually this is a bad cap gas vent like Larry said. You can test to see if it's vapor lock by running warm (not cold) water on the carburetor for a few minutes and then try to restart the engine. Once in a while an ignition coil will fail as they get hot and then work once again as they cool off. If you exclude the other possibilities, I'd replace the coil.

Re(4): Oliver 1250 gas

IP: 205.174.22.21 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 09:44:16 AM by rich p

Thanks for the input. I will give it a try.

Oliver 77 Cam/Lifters

IP: 216.93.103.167 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 03:43:33 PM by Kris

Are there any sources for new lifters for a 77 gas engine? I would like to install a new cam, but haven't been able to find the lifters. Thanks, Kris

Re(1): Oliver 77 Cam/Lifters

IP: 206.105.8.145 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 05:11:34 PM by Bubba

Anybody who sells you a cam should be able to supply new lifters. If they can't, don't buy the cam. Have you tried your AGCO dealer?

Re(2): Oliver 77 Cam/Lifters

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 09:03:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. in Sheldon IA 800-320-6224. I agree with Bubba. Don't buy the cam if they don't have the lifters. Larry

Oliver Super 88 Fuel Pump

IP: 65.203.9.4 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 07:49:23 AM by Ben

Another question for you Larry. I just purchased this tractor and it has an electic fuel pump in place of the mechanical pump. Do you know of any problems I may have keeping this electric pump installed? I am concerned about having constant fuel pressure being supplied to the injector pump versus the pulse pressure of the mechanical pump. This electrical pump is rated at 10 psi. Thanks for your time!

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 Fuel Pump

IP: 67.2.248.108 Posted on September 11, 2003 at 09:00:35 PM by Larry Harsin

If your tractor runs good with that on there, I would leave it alone. I feel that it will work fine. Let me know. Larry

7 inch headlights

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 08:56:21 PM by Larry Coltrin

got the lights off my 2 Oliver 70's and while trying to get the standards off the lights, I broke 3 out of 6 bolts. It looks like there is some kind of fastener on the threads on theoutside of the lights. How do I get the bolts out of the light?

Re(1): 7 inch headlights

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 09:09:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd heat the bolts with a torch and see if that will help. Larry

Oliver 60 6-12 Volt ?

IP: 4.17.223.29 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 02:56:24 PM by Adam

I have a 1948 Oliver 60. I haven't been able to determine whether it is a 6 or 12 volt. The starter and generator are both made by Delco-Remey. I haven't been able to find a specification on the electrical systems. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 60 6-12 Volt ?

IP: 216.198.127.2 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 05:35:29 PM by Phil

It should be 6 volt unless someone has converted it. If it has a battery in it you can tell a 6 volt from a 12 volt by the number of holes on top. 3 hole=6 volt 6 hole=12 volt

Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 65.203.9.7 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 11:16:47 AM by Ben

I recently bought this tractor with a rebuilt engine. It's very hard to start without starting fluid. It puffs white smoke until it warms up, like all cylinders are not firing. It seems sluggish when reving the engine throttle. Any ideas? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 67.2.242.41 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 09:06:45 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check would be the energy cells on the right side of the engine. Unscrew the caps and pull the parts out. You may have some of these that are filled with carbon and plugged. If they are, you will have to carefully remove the carbon without damaging the surfaces of the energy cells. Use "O" ring pics on some of it or maybe small drill bits to go into where the injector shoots the fuel across into the cell. Hold these with your hands, not in a drill. If that doesn't help, let me know. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 65.203.9.4 Posted on September 10, 2003 at 06:52:40 AM by Ben

I checked them for a second time last night. None were clogged or wet. Thanks for helping.

Re(3): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 67.2.249.230 Posted on September 10, 2003 at 10:08:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Disconnect the air cleaner hose between the air cleaner and intake manifold and see if it is getting enough air. Larry

Re(4): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 65.203.9.7 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 07:21:53 AM by Ben

The intake air system is not blocked. Also, I had all the injectors tested a few weeks ago and they were good.

Re(5): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on September 12, 2003 at 05:34:51 PM by Larry from MD

The pump could be out of time or the govner pin sticking.

Re(6): Oliver Super 88 Diesel Sluggish

IP: 65.203.9.7 Posted on September 15, 2003 at 09:36:55 AM by Ben

Thanks for your help. I will let you know what I find.

Oliver 2255

IP: 195.240.217.101 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 03:53:34 AM by Rob

Hi, i'm the proud owner of a Oliver 2255 and my dream is to participate in a puller race for tractors, and now i'm wondering how i could get more power out of this huge block. I hope you can help me, Greetings Rob The Netherlands

Re(1): Oliver 2255

IP: 67.2.242.23 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 05:51:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I really don't feel qualified to answer this question. I am not a puller. Go back to our home page and click on the link to V8 Ollies (Fun Pulling Site). Look all of that over. Click on the "Silver Bullet" site and you will find several email addresses including: V8puller@aol.com. I'm sure he could help you. Larry

Oliver 770 governor linkage adjustment

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 09:26:07 PM by Mike Renner

Larry I want to make my governor linkage adjustment. When doing this should I turn the bumper screw out and hold the governor operating lever as far forward as I can by hand while the governor control handle is in the full throttle position to obtain my 1/16" setting forward of the operating lever or just leave the operating lever where it stops on its own without my assistance of pushing it forward and make my 1/16" adjustment from there? Thank you for any help you can offer me. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 770 governor linkage adjustment

IP: 67.2.242.23 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 05:34:05 AM by Larry Harsin

You want to have your throttle in wide open position and the governor arm back toward the carb all the way. Then hold the governor rod to the carb all the way back and adjust for the 1/16" - 1/8" over travel from this point. Larry

Oliver 880

IP: 205.197.175.45 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 01:03:40 PM by Craig

We have an oliver 880 and need to change the fluid in the rear. What weight gear oil should we use? thanks

Re(1): Oliver 880

IP: 67.2.242.23 Posted on September 9, 2003 at 05:30:24 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor is equipped with the power booster transmission, I would reccommend a fluid such as Hy-Tran from C/IH or Hy-Gard from JD. If it doesn't have the power booster, use 80 - 90 Gear Oil. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 880

IP: 172.130.9.252 Posted on September 10, 2003 at 11:07:13 AM by douglas wenig

larry is right about the oils to use but you can also use the universal transmission and hydraulic oil that was used in the 2-135/2-155 whites also as this has worked well in tractors that have the power booster trans cause we have used this for years the choise is yours

Parts needed, filters, seat, battery box

IP: 209.240.231.145 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 05:38:17 AM by Cwolfe

I am a relative new owner to a 1966 1650. It is a step up from my old 770. I want to change all the fluids and filters and need to find out Napa or equivalent numbers for the various filters. Hydra power filter (oliver part 156-513 A) Hydraulic fluid filter (165-442-A) Final Drive filter (156-513-A) I also need to replace breathers on Hydra power and hydraulic (104-792 A) Would I have to get these from White dealer? I am also looking for replacement seat foam/cover and a battery box. I would appreciate any information. Thank you. Cwolfe

Re(1): Parts needed, filters, seat, battery box

IP: 206.105.8.114 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 06:32:19 AM by Bubba

Engine, Hydraul-Shift, and Transmission/final drive filters are available from NAPA. They will look them up in the book for you. Hydraulic filter and seal are available at any AGCO dealer. If you have the chair type seat, your AGCO dealer can sell you replacement cushions. If you have the pan type seat, find an upholstery shop to repair the seat and backrest cushions. Can't help with the battery box.

Re(2): Parts needed, filters, seat, battery box

IP: 67.2.248.84 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 07:18:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. They are long time Oliver Dealers. He can supply all of these items for you. Larry

replacement bucket and rear brackets

IP: 205.217.79.95 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 10:14:54 PM by Alan Wernette

I'm planning to move my fathers Oliver 1610, new in 1967, front end loader from his Oliver 77 to my rebuilt 1650. I'm having a hard time finding a new or good used bucket that fits this model plus no one can find a manual for this loader. I need to see how the loader is attached to the rear wheel housing since the 77 and 1650 are quite different. Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): replacement bucket and rear brackets

IP: 67.2.248.84 Posted on September 8, 2003 at 07:14:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Some Fleet stores have new generic buckets that can be adapted to your loader. Check with T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. They show heavy duty buckets in their catalog. You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City IA. Email her: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Oil leak 55 Super PTO

IP: 206.47.184.229 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 07:19:41 PM by Paul Hodgson

Larry I have a problem with the spider hub on the front of the PTO leaking oil. Replaced the two "O" rings and the two seals on the PTO shalft but still have a leak onto the clutch plates. Did not leak when static or the first while I used the PTO after initial repair. Would it be possible I put the inner seal in the wrong direction as I faced lips toward front of tractor and the smaller seal lips face toward the rear of tractor. When I installed the "O" ring on the shaft I used a solution of brake fluid and motor oil for a lube to allow easy slid over of the spider hub and can find no cuts or marks since removal and re assembly but still have the leak and with oil the PTO wants to turn all the time and not brake. Any help would be appreciated as want to use my brush mower some more before snow flies. Thanks Paul form Ontario

Re(1): Oil leak 55 Super PTO

IP: 67.2.248.123 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 09:00:47 PM by Larry Harsin

First question: Are you using 80 - 90 transmission grease in the transmission? Has it been changed recently? It may need to be changed. Check the breather on the right axle. There should be a little cap there. Make sure it is not plugged. It sounds like you did everything right in installing the seals. Leakage in the PTO clutch is a common problem on these little tractors. Larry

Oliver 770 governor control shaft assembly

IP: 68.80.67.107 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 03:01:19 PM by Mike Renner

I loosened my lower governor control shaft lever (under the battery box) from the governor control shaft that comes down from the steering wheel. Is there any specific way these two are to be lined back up? The reason I did this is because the governor hand lever wants to overtravel on the upper bracket when I go back to the idle position and it is tight when pulled to full throttle position. I thought by doing this it would solve my problem, but it seemed to throw all of my other governor adjustments out of wack. I'm not sure where to go from here to get things back into order. Thank you for any help you can give me. Mike Renner

Re(1): Oliver 770 governor control shaft assembly

IP: 67.2.248.123 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 08:55:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I would put the lever at the steering wheel in the idle position or all the way up. Then move the arm on the shaft to where the linkage is in the slowest idle position and then tighten it and try it. That should do it. Larry

Oliver 77 Shims

IP: 216.93.103.229 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 01:46:44 PM by Kris

Hi, I have an early 77 gas that has the shims installed on the rod and main bearings. I have had the rods resized, but don't have all of the old shims. Are these available anywhere?

Re(1): Oliver 77 Shims

IP: 67.2.248.123 Posted on September 7, 2003 at 08:52:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you had the rods resized, you shouldn't need shims. Larry

Oliver 1950 T

IP: 12.107.246.224 Posted on September 6, 2003 at 08:42:17 PM by Steve

I am looking for a Walkashaw 310 engine in good running order with all updates. Do you know a source? Or do you know what it would take to swap the engine to a 5.9 Cummins and do you have a source for this?

Re(1): Oliver 1950 T

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on September 6, 2003 at 10:10:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Wes Dorhout at 712-324-2760. He specializes in Waukesha. Also, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

880 oil pressure

IP: 67.73.188.4 Posted on September 6, 2003 at 03:46:54 PM by larry davis

larry, i would like to know what the oil pressure should be for an oliver 880. i am looking at one for sale and the gauge only about 20psi, provided this gauge is working properly.

Re(1): 880 oil pressure

IP: 67.2.249.73 Posted on September 6, 2003 at 10:07:03 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has 15 to 20 lbs at high idle, that is normal. Larry

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