"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - September, 2007 Archives


USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 207.199.246.250 Posted on September 30, 2007 at 04:23:45 PM by steve

I have an 1800c with a Marvel USX 32-1 carb, The tractor ran great until last fall, had the carb rebuilt, put in new plugs and wires and it ran somewhat better but since the tractor is only used for moving hay, mowing and snow removal, it does not get used much and the carb seems to be giving me problems again. Is there a better carb to use that will give me better throttle and power? With no load on it, the tractor won't pull a hill on the gravel in 6th gear. I've been told the USX carbs are not that great to begin with.

Re(1): USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 4.158.84.111 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 05:41:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd have that carb checked out again, possibly there is something wrong. I wouldn't change carbs yet, putting in something different is an expensive way to go. If you can't get it fixed locally, check with Denny's Carb Shop: www.denny'scarbshop.com Larry

Re(2): USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 65.197.31.35 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 03:42:22 PM by steve

Was contacted by Cathy Smith of Denny's Carb Shop in Ohio. They have found some defects in mfg process of this old carb, they will correct those and rebuild the carb for $325.00 with a 3 day turn around, she says it will perform better than changing over to a Zenith. Considering the last rebuild cost $120.00 and never really fixed the problem entirely, this may be the best way to go?

Re(3): USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 4.158.84.129 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 07:11:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd sure consider it. It's a lot cheaper than the Zenith. Larry

Re(4): USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 64.108.158.24 Posted on October 2, 2007 at 05:59:45 PM by Tom

I came here to ask the same basic question - my usx 32 has been rebuilt 2x and still gives me fits. I found a very nice carb from an 1800 A (TSX-807 I think)for dirt cheap and am wondering what would be required to use that? Is the mounting flange same?

Re(5): USX-32 Carb on 1800

IP: 4.158.84.97 Posted on October 3, 2007 at 07:54:49 AM by Larry Harsin The TSX-807 won't work. To both of you, I don't have all the parts to fix these anymore. I can't get them. I would try to work with Denny's Carb Shop. Larry


1800 ring and pinion

IP: 64.179.117.176 Posted on September 30, 2007 at 10:23:40 AM by Jim P

I have an 1800 pulling tractor with an 8 tooth pinion gear and a 47 tooth ring gear. I pull it in 6th gear and I need to go about 30% faster. Are there any different ring and pinions available for this tractor.? Also, If they are available, does anyone have one? I am taking out my over/under so if anybody needs one, mine is for sale. It works great. Thanks for any input,

Re(1): 1800 ring and pinion

IP: 4.158.84.111 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 05:34:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I am not aware that there are any different ring and pinions for that tractor. Larry


1650D Injector Pump

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on September 30, 2007 at 07:13:14 AM by rwskinner

Would anyone happen to have the Roosa Spec Sheet for a DBG-FC629-1DH My Roosa Book does not have the specs for this particular model. I just want to make sure I get it set right on the clearances.

Re(1): 1650D Injector Pump

IP: 4.158.84.111 Posted on October 1, 2007 at 05:43:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200. Larry


1850 diesel

IP: 208.54.14.34 Posted on September 29, 2007 at 07:29:47 PM by jim

Larry- question on fuel filters. IT manual shows bleed points on housings. I can't see any on mine. Understand bleeding is critical.

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 4.158.84.89 Posted on September 29, 2007 at 09:00:29 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a bleeder on the top of the primary filter on the right side of the engine. There is no bleeder on the final filter on the left side. But, there are 2 bleeders on the injection pump. Those will take care of it. Larry


power steering on 1250 diesel

IP: 66.82.9.81 Posted on September 28, 2007 at 04:53:18 AM by Tom Kline

Can the power steering cylinder on my 1250 be rebuilt? Where can I get parts? Can I do it myself?

Re(1): power steering on 1250 diesel

IP: 4.158.84.27 Posted on September 28, 2007 at 05:58:53 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say it probably can be rebuilt. Check with Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9934. I havn't rebuilt any of these. Possibly you can do it yourself. Ask Maibach. Larry


1755 diesel differential

IP: 207.177.69.120 Posted on September 27, 2007 at 01:47:43 PM by Dennis Meggers

Every now and then when in road gear i hear a noise in the differential. Is there anyway of testing the low pressure pump located inside the trans. that runs to the top drive shaft by the small bicycle chain without removing the seat and trans. housing?

Re(1): 1755 diesel differential

IP: 4.158.84.27 Posted on September 28, 2007 at 05:56:34 AM by Larry Harsin

With the tractor running, unscrew the filter and see if it is pumping oil. Larry

Re(2): 1755 diesel differential

IP: 207.177.69.120 Posted on October 5, 2007 at 01:36:24 PM by Dennis Meggers

Thanks for the info. I tried the filter while running and had oil flowing. The pump I am wondering about runs off of the top shaft connected by a small chain (similar to a bicycle chain). It draws oil from the bottom of the differential and dribbles it onto the top shaft. I do not believe that it is part of the main oil system and does not go through the filter. I had the differential cover off last year and replaced this chain and also checked the pump for mechanical failure, there was none. Is there anyway of checking it with out removing the housing again. Thanks for the info. once again.

Re(3): 1755 diesel differential

IP: 4.158.84.188 Posted on October 6, 2007 at 08:13:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Checking to see if it is pumping oil, like you did, is all you need to do. Larry


1850/1650 Cab Question

IP: 192.43.65.245 Posted on September 26, 2007 at 08:16:27 AM by Kerwin

Hello. Will a Hiniker cab from an 1850 mount on a 1650? Or would this require extensive changes in the mounting pads and hood enclosure? I do not know the model number of the Hiniker cab, but could get from current cab owner. Thanks for the help, and for answering my question about the 88 clutch shaft.

Re(1): 1850/1650 Cab Question

IP: 4.158.84.121 Posted on September 26, 2007 at 07:13:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it may take a different mounting package. You may be able to mount it, but it would require some differences in the brackets etc. Larry


77 fleetline

IP: 4.188.129.242 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 09:48:52 PM by Mike

Hyd. res. is low and trans. is over full, is that where the hyd.oil is going? If so what needs to be done and how big a job is it? If this is the problem does it leak through all the time or only when tractor is running?

Re(1): 77 fleetline

IP: 4.158.84.110 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:39:56 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is where the leak is. Usually the oil is leaking past the pump seals and it can leak both when the engine is running and when it isn't. The pump will have to be removed from the tractor and repaired as needed. If you want to send the pump to me, I can repair it and send it back. Bearings and seals are approx. $100 plus labor. Larry


1650D Injector Pump

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 07:32:17 PM by Rwskinner

I have a 65 model 1650D which acts like it's starving for fuel. It ran fine a few days ago and yesterday it acted like it was out of fuel. I cleaned the bowl and screen, (it did have some water in it). I changed primary and secondary filters, clean the screen in the inlet of the transfer pump (it was clean), and replaced the check ball in the return fitting (top of Pump). I bleed the system multiple times with no air found. The lift pump is new as well. The engine starts and runs perfect for about 3 or 4 minutes when cold and then slowly slows down until it dies. It will immediately restart and then only run about 30 seconds before it dies. Injector pump is full of fuel, primary has plenty of pressure. Any other ideas? Oh, when I drained the fuel from the timing window, I caught it and there was about 3 or 4 small fragments in it like from the drive coupling. I got this pump from Larry Harson abnout 5 years ago in it has a few hundred hours on it. Think the pump is going out again?

Re(1): 1650D Injector Pump

IP: 4.158.84.110 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:36:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that your governor ring is starting to break up. Central Fuel Injection can repair it. 712-362-4200 or possibly you have a pump repair near you, to call. Larry

Re(2): 1650D Injector Pump

IP: 207.243.120.94 Posted on September 26, 2007 at 10:49:49 AM by rwskinner

Do you still handle exchange pumps?

Re(3): 1650D Injector Pump

IP: 4.158.84.121 Posted on September 26, 2007 at 07:10:47 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't make a practice of having those. Larry Re(4): 1650D Injector Pump

IP: 67.55.237.115 Posted on September 29, 2007 at 12:58:05 PM by mark

I had that same problem like you described with my 1600. The flex ring is breaking apart. I had van's fuel injection in Marion Iowa rebuild it. They put a different type of flex ring in the pump which would never go bad again. I forgot what it is called. The whole thing cost me $608 dollars, but i have a new pump.


55 losing oil into rearend

IP: 66.59.167.165 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 06:29:25 PM by PaulH

my 55 losing hydrallic oil into rear end after continued use can find no signs of oil seal leaks and seal was changed o ring in pump housing changed as oil line was deadended and blown oil o ring a result on start up pipe from reservoir to pump seems fine but is gravity and shows no leaks when static and full of oil pan has no holes leak seems to be a pressure leak any ideas where to start as noway to see inside when pump is in drive position.Thanks Paul

Re(1): 55 losing oil into rearend

IP: 4.158.84.110 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:33:10 PM by Larry Harsin

There must be some leakage inside the pump. Take the pump apart and inspect it. Replace the O rings and go from there. Larry


Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.150 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 09:15:07 AM by Terry Allen

Want to replace the exhaust manifold. Can you advise where to get it (NOS preferred) and the 6 studs, nuts and gaskets for both the exhaust and intake manifolds? The nuts and studs have a lot of rust. What is the best method to remove them?

Re(1): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.158.42.8 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:28:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 or www.agpartsfirst.com for the parts. I would heat up the nuts with a torch to remove them. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.226 Posted on September 27, 2007 at 09:26:11 PM by Terry Allen

Ag Parts does not carry the manifold studs. Do you have any for sale, new or used? May be able to have made at a local fastener co. Do you know or suspect if they are made from a high strength metal? The description in the parts manual does not specify metal type.

Re(3): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.77 Posted on September 28, 2007 at 06:41:21 PM by Terry Allen

According to the Parts Manual, 2 different lengths of 3/8" studs are used to anchor the manifolds. Do these double-end studs use NC and NF threads on the same stud? Can you advise the threaded lengths?

Re(4): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.158.84.47 Posted on September 29, 2007 at 07:07:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe they are made from high strength metal. They do have the double threading (same stud). I have 4 of the 3/8" x 51/4" studs. I do not have the 2 3/8 x 61/2 bolts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He may have all of these. 800-320-6224. Larry


55 losing oil into rearend

IP: 66.59.167.165 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 06:29:25 PM by PaulH

my 55 losing hydrallic oil into rear end after continued use can find no signs of oil seal leaks and seal was changed o ring in pump housing changed as oil line was deadended and blown oil o ring a result on start up pipe from reservoir to pump seems fine but is gravity and shows no leaks when static and full of oil pan has no holes leak seems to be a pressure leak any ideas where to start as noway to see inside when pump is in drive position.Thanks Paul

Re(1): 55 losing oil into rearend

IP: 4.158.84.110 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:33:10 PM by Larry Harsin

There must be some leakage inside the pump. Take the pump apart and inspect it. Replace the O rings and go from there. Larry


Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.150 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 09:15:07 AM by Terry Allen

Want to replace the exhaust manifold. Can you advise where to get it (NOS preferred) and the 6 studs, nuts and gaskets for both the exhaust and intake manifolds? The nuts and studs have a lot of rust. What is the best method to remove them?

Re(1): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.158.42.8 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 11:28:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 or www.agpartsfirst.com for the parts. I would heat up the nuts with a torch to remove them. Larry

Re(2): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.226 Posted on September 27, 2007 at 09:26:11 PM by Terry Allen

Ag Parts does not carry the manifold studs. Do you have any for sale, new or used? May be able to have made at a local fastener co. Do you know or suspect if they are made from a high strength metal? The description in the parts manual does not specify metal type.

Re(3): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.160.180.77 Posted on September 28, 2007 at 06:41:21 PM by Terry Allen

According to the Parts Manual, 2 different lengths of 3/8" studs are used to anchor the manifolds. Do these double-end studs use NC and NF threads on the same stud? Can you advise the threaded lengths?

Re(4): Oliver Super 77 (Gas) Manifold Parts

IP: 4.158.84.47 Posted on September 29, 2007 at 07:07:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe they are made from high strength metal. They do have the double threading (same stud). I have 4 of the 3/8" x 51/4" studs. I do not have the 2 3/8 x 61/2 bolts. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He may have all of these. 800-320-6224. Larry


Oliver Super 77- Hydraulic Oil Filter

IP: 4.160.180.209 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 09:43:28 PM by Terry Allen

Do you know where one can be purchsed? Are there replacement equivalents, such as a NAPA product?

Re(1): Oliver Super 77- Hydraulic Oil Filter

IP: 4.158.42.213 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 05:58:42 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. NAPA carries that filter. The hydraulic filter that you mention is also used as a primary fuel filter on the S77. Several stores have them. Just tell them what you are looking for. The AGCO part number is: 103096AS. Larry


Oliver Tractor Literature

IP: 4.160.180.209 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 09:05:32 PM by Terry Allen

Can you recommend:? 1. A good book covering the Oliver Tractors with good photos? 2. A good magazine for the collector and restorer?

Re(1): Oliver Tractor Literature

IP: 4.158.42.213 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 05:55:47 AM by Larry Harsin

A book: Oliver Hart Parr, by C.H. Wendell. Photos are in black and white, but it covers everything Oliver. It costs approx. $40 and you can get it at the Museum in Charles City. The Museum also has several other books with colored pictures etc. 641-228-1099. The 3 magazines I like are: The Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine, you get it by joining the organization for $30. Website: www.hartparroliver.org Oliver Heritage Magazine $29 Website: www.oliverinformation.com Antique Power magazine $30 www.antiquepower.com Larry


88 Oliver Clutch Shaft Question

IP: 207.230.193.23 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 07:58:08 PM by Kerwin

In the process of replacing the pilot bushing in my 88 with the newer ball-bearing type bushing, I have run into a question about the new clutch shaft: The clutch shaft that I installed is from a 77 with the ball-bearing pilot bearing, which I had heard was the same shaft as for an 88 (1K-579-A). However, the shaft seems shorter then it should be. With the coupler secured on the clutch shaft, if the clutch shaft is pushed forward to bottom out in the pilot bearing, the set screw hole in the coupler does not line up with the hole in the transmission input shaft. I would say the clutch shaft has about 3/8" play from fully seating on the input shaft to bottoming out in the pilot bearing. Are the clutch shafts actually different between the 77 and 88? Otherwise, what else could be causing the problem, or is this shaft play normal? I'm concerned that if I use the set screw, the clutch shaft won't be in the pilot bearing by very much. Thank you; any help is appreciated.

Re(1): 88 Oliver Clutch Shaft Question

IP: 4.158.42.213 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 05:42:07 AM by Larry Harsin

That is the correct clutch shaft. I think what you are finding is normal and that everything will be fine. The clutch shaft can go a little bit further forward, but it will back out and still be correct. Larry


Super 55 Hyd.

IP: 66.227.225.130 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 02:10:22 PM by jerry ray

Larry, A few weeks ago the three point on my 1954, super 55 stop lifting after unhooking a platform which I used to carry 55 gallon barrels of water. I know the pump was putting out because I have the second valve hook up to a home made front dozer blade. I checked the fluid levels and all is up to where it should be. I played around with the draft control without help. Now suddenly it works again. Do I have some dirt in the system? Is the filter pluged? It has been about 5 years since I change oil and filter last, which is not a lot of hours since the tractor sits most of the time.

Re(1): Super 55 Hyd.

IP: 4.158.42.213 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 05:34:52 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is change the oil and filter. It could have been a speck of foreign material or it could have been a spool momentarily stuck in a passage, that caused the problem. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 Hyd.

IP: 66.227.225.130 Posted on September 25, 2007 at 09:50:48 AM by jerry ray Thanks for the responce. I will get the oil and filter and get it changed.


1850 draft control

IP: 207.103.48.198 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 05:18:53 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - using 1850 to plow. Set draft control down. It slowly works its way back up. Have to hold in position. What would be the problem ?

Re(1): 1850 draft control

IP: 4.252.26.161 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 06:04:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Assuming that you are talking about the 3 pt. hitch control lever, the adjuster for the friction disk on the 3 pt. hitch control lever, has backed out. This will have to be retightened. If the disk is broken or gone, you will have to get a new fiber disk. To adjust this, you'll have to remove the top lid off of the hydraulic unit. Then, remove the forks for the remote levers and slide the levers out. If there is any oil leakage in this area, I'd replace the seals on these levers. Larry


1850 hydrolic leak

IP: 207.103.48.198 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 05:17:06 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - have 1850 - loosing oil internally - going into the final drive. Where would be the most likely place this would happen ?

Re(1): 1850 hydrolic leak

IP: 4.252.26.161 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 06:00:16 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a seal on the draft control rod that goes through the oil pan to the area just inside the left hand bull gear. This is the most likely place for leakage. Check it for leakage and replace that seal, if necessary. You'll have to remove the PTO assembly from the rear of the tractor to do this. Larry


18-27 Hart Parr

IP: 70.112.146.78 Posted on September 23, 2007 at 07:19:56 PM by mike green

I have a 1931 or 32 oliver hart phar 18-27. I am in the process of trying to start it after it has set up since about 1942. I had to take the governor and magneto off since the cap to the governor disintegrated and the pieces fell into the governor. I have it back together but could not find timing marks so I found tdc on cylinder #1 and with trial amd error got it where it fires on the #1 cylinder about TDC. The impulse part of the governor really made it difficult. Is this right? Close enough? Is this the only way to do this or are there timing marks that I just missed or is there some other trick I dont know of.

18-27 Hart Parr

IP: 4.252.26.161 Posted on September 24, 2007 at 06:21:19 AM by Larry Harsin

This is from an 80 Shop Manual. I don't have one for the 18-27. The 18-27 was the fore runner of the 80. When the timing gears are installed, match the "C" marks on the crankshaft and camshaft gear and match the "M" marks on the camgear and magneto-governor drive gear. The crankshaft keyway will be upward when the timing marks are in the correct position. The magneto-governor drive gear used on the early tractors (this will include your tractor) has two "M" marks and two keyways. The purpose of this is to provide an adjustment of the magneto timing by a choice of the keyways and marks. The difference between the marks amounts to about 1/2 tooth on the gear. Larry


Power Booster

IP: 68.113.155.164 Posted on September 22, 2007 at 04:09:59 PM by Steve Merritt

How do you set up an 880 with a power booster with a single acting cylinder? The lever mount blocks the drain port. Do you have to plumb the return back into the large port on the left side of the reservoir, or is there another port I can use?

Re(1): Power Booster

IP: 4.158.84.150 Posted on September 23, 2007 at 02:53:58 PM by Larry Harsin

The thing to do is to plumb into that big port on the side of the reservoir. Larry


Oliver Super 77 Transmission

IP: 4.160.180.134 Posted on September 20, 2007 at 08:06:22 AM by Terry Allen

After shifting into 4th gear, I am not able to disenge from this gear without an extreme effort.

Re(1): Oliver Super 77 Transmission

IP: 4.158.84.246 Posted on September 20, 2007 at 07:41:41 PM by Larry Harsin

The problem could be that the engine clutch is not releasing properly and is causing it to keep turning. With the engine shut off, depress the clutch pedal and see if you can turn the drive shaft by hand. It should turn freely, This is the first thing I would check. This is the most common thing wrong when they shift hard. Then, it could even be a bad pilot bearing in the flywheel. Larry


S77 Oil

IP: 4.160.180.219 Posted on September 19, 2007 at 08:10:51 AM by terry Allen

Have a Super 77 (1955). The hydraulic system call for 10W Motor oil. Where can I find it? Is the a substitute? If a substitute is recommended, can the be mixed?

Re(1): S77 Oil

IP: 4.158.84.107 Posted on September 19, 2007 at 09:38:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I use a med non-foaming hydraulic oil that I purchase at my Fleet Store. Yes, they can be mixed. Larry


1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 06:28:32 PM by KIM

I have a leak (transmission fluid )coming from the bottom of my Hydro Power Drive. I disconnected the line that runs under the hdyro pwer drive from the separator ( not sure what it is called but it looks like a trans type cooler and has 2 heater hoses running into the front of the engine) then i pulled out the shaft and there was the O-RING I believe is causing the leak. My problem is it is very hard to fit the shaft back in, I don't want to tear up anything but it seems like I am hitting something that keep's it from going in smoothly . Any idea why it is so stubborn?

Re(1): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 4.252.197.117 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 09:08:18 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a thrust washer on the front of the housing where you pulled the shaft back. That washer has slid down and you may have to take the unit out of the tractor, before you can get it back in place. Up on the front of the housing, you can barely see where the shaft slides up to. The bellhousing fits up to it. You can try with a wire or something and see if you can push that thrust washer back in, but I sort of doubt that you will be able to do this. If you can't you will have to pull the engine with the hydra power out of the tractor and set it on the floor and remove the side cover, before you can reinstall that shaft into the housing. There is also an O ring in the front of the housing that should be replaced. The bellhousing has to be removed from the hydra power, before that can be replaced. Larry

Re(2): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 67.55.255.180 Posted on September 17, 2007 at 06:39:09 AM by Don

I had the same problem Kim and I had to remove mine. if you take it out there was some other seals I put in advised by Larry you may want to check with him if you do that. good luck

Re(3): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 4.252.197.117 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 09:09:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Remember to take the PTO shaft out before you remove the engine and hydra power from the tractor. Larry

Re(4): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on September 17, 2007 at 09:09:45 PM by KIM

Holy cow, what a mess ,, should left that alone!! I will let you know.


1850 diesel

IP: 4.255.9.98 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 04:52:39 PM by Jonathan Maupin

I was disking a hillside yesterday and pulled my 1850 diesel off to the side and let it idle while I seeded grass on the hill for about 20 minutes. I came back to the tractor, revved it up, and started working it again and it smoked quite a bit. Also a black liquid ran out of the muffler bottom down onto the exhaust manifold and oil filter after a bit. It seemed thicker than engine oil. Maybe fuel? any ideas what happened? Runs great other than what happened. thanks for your help

Re(1): 1850 diesel

IP: 4.252.197.117 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 08:56:19 PM by Larry Harsin

You let it sit and idle too long with the oil warmed and thinned. You should have shut it off. If it needs an oil change, you should change the oil. If it is low on oil, you should put oil in it. It should be o.k., but make sure the oil is clean and at the proper level. Don't let it sit and idle that long again. Larry


Oliver Tractor

IP: 4.160.180.223 Posted on September 15, 2007 at 06:48:54 PM by Terry Allen

Can't identify my tractor from the SN, even using the "Oliver Tractor Data Book". Was not able the find any serial numbers (8 digits) even similar to mine in the book. My tractor has tricycle wheels (two in front) and open cowl sides, exposing the motor. The body is green, with white wheels and radiator grille. The rear axle says "Row Crop". SN 21 339 - 705 Specification Number 17 - 1414

Re(1): Oliver Tractor

IP: 4.252.197.222 Posted on September 15, 2007 at 07:08:40 PM by Larry Harsin

It looks like it could be a 660, 770 or an 880 any of which would be built in 1955. Look for numbers on the enging block, above the starter. If it is a K number it is in the 88 family. If it is an M number it is in the 77 family. If it is an L number, it is in the 66 family. Could you email a picture of it to us? Larry

Re(2): Oliver Tractor

IP: 209.50.27.169 Posted on September 18, 2007 at 10:44:43 PM by B A Star

Your tractor is a Super 77. As Larry said, it was built in 1955. It was built with the "Special Low Speed" power train.

Re(3): Oliver Tractor IP: 4.160.180.134 Posted on September 20, 2007 at 07:53:37 AM by Terry Allen

Thanks for the information. the engine number 1(or L)M100B, so assume it's a Super 77. Still puzzled about the colors- Green body, white wheels and white grille. No sign of green paint on the wheels down to the metal. The color scheme doesn't make sense according to the "Oliver Tractor Book"

Re(4): Oliver Tractor IP: 4.158.84.150 Posted on September 23, 2007 at 02:57:58 PM by Larry Harsin

A lot of those tractors got painted Meadow Green and Clover White when they were traded back in, years ago. Many of them are like that. I don't know the answer to no green under the white on the wheels, but I think the tractor was probably repainted at one time. Larry


1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 72.47.57.10 Posted on September 13, 2007 at 03:47:37 PM by kIM SHARVER

I have a 1610 loader connected to the 1650 Industrail hydraulics. I think my pump needs a rebuild, how can I check the flow rate, pressure ect, to prove that it may need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Re(1): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 4.158.42.53 Posted on September 14, 2007 at 05:38:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Get a pressure gauge and put it in one of the lines that goes to the cylinder. Check the pressure with the engine at half throttle and the oil cold. Then, recheck it with the oil at operating temp. If there is a significant difference in the 2 pressures, it is a good sign that your pump is shot. Also, the speed of travel on your loader, with operating temp verses the cold start up temp, is a good indication of pump wear. Larry

Re(2): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 72.47.57.10 What pressure should the gauge read?

Re(3): 1650 INDUSTRIAL

IP: 4.252.197.117 Posted on September 16, 2007 at 09:19:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the specs for the Industrial. It should say in your Operator's Manual. I am guessing that it would be approx. 2000 lbs. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry


60 sleeves

IP: 65.121.139.193 Posted on September 13, 2007 at 12:57:36 PM by Brian Decatur co. Ia

I'm overhauling my 60. I had the block hot tanked. My new sleeves fit very loose in the block with no seal rings on them. Is this right? Should the sleeves have any height above the block? I got the sleeves from Maibach if that helps any. Thanks for any help. Brian

Re(1): 60 sleeves

IP: 4.158.42.53 Posted on September 14, 2007 at 05:34:35 AM by Larry Harsin

It's normal for them to fit freely without the rings. The sleeves should have a slight protrusion (.002 - .004) above the block. Larry

Re(2): 60 sleeves

IP: 65.121.139.193 Posted on September 14, 2007 at 10:52:05 AM by Brian Decatur co. Ia

With the sleeves in the block there is probably 1/16" clearance at the bottom so I can rock them back and forth. They sit about .004 below the block surface. Are there shims to raise them?

Re(3): 60 sleeves

IP: 4.252.197.222 Posted on September 15, 2007 at 07:12:14 PM by Larry Harsin

You should talk to Maibach or your machine shop. It doesn't sound like those sleeves are correct for that block. Call Maibach and talk to them. It sounds like those might be 70 sleeves. Larry


Oliver 1600 oil sender unit

IP: 69.27.50.34 Posted on September 13, 2007 at 08:32:04 AM by Noel Putman

Larry, I have a indicator light for the oil pressure on my 1600. Can I hook up a gauge to that sender unit and get a pressure reading?

Re(1): Oliver 1600 oil sender unit

IP: 4.158.42.53 Posted on September 14, 2007 at 05:31:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Put a "Tee" in there and then you can attach the gauge also, and have them both work. Larry


770 block numbers

IP: 74.36.220.155 Posted on September 11, 2007 at 07:10:07 PM by Jeff

I have a 1966 Oliver 770 with a cracked block and I found a good block from a different 770. The casting numbers are different. Do you know if it will still work? Cracked Block Numbers are: 185320 160918A Good Block Numbers are: 185220 104306A

Re(1): 770 block numbers

IP: 4.158.84.226 Posted on September 11, 2007 at 08:31:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it will work just fine. Larry


Oliver 440

IP: 206.74.19.124 Posted on September 11, 2007 at 10:21:32 AM by Jon

i just bought an oliver 440 with cultivator and front and rear wheel weights. cant find alot of info about the tractor. was wonder if you could email me some info on numbers made or value of tractor.

Re(1): Oliver 440

IP: 4.158.84.226 Posted on September 11, 2007 at 08:19:04 PM by Larry Harsin

The beginning serial number in 1960 was 85725. The beginning serial number in 1962 (their last year of production) was 121833. I do not know how many were made that last year (I don't have an ending number). Value depends on condition, condition, condition. Restored ones run approx. $10,000. Larry


left link

IP: 71.208.12.59 Posted on September 10, 2007 at 08:56:15 PM by Gerry

Larry, the upper half (external thread) on my left lower link of the 3 point is bent and I'm not sure I can straighten it. My friend with the torch says this is pretty hard steel and he's not sure if we heat it up we can keep its strength. Do you have a spare? Also I need a new seat back, not sure where to get one. Also I need a new brake band. I have a 1600.

Re(1): left link

IP: 4.252.28.243 Posted on September 11, 2007 at 06:32:28 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the link. I think I would attempt to straighten it using a press and some heat. If it isn't severely bent, I think you have a fair chance of straightening it. I don't think the heating will affect the strength that adversley. Ag Parts First has new seat backs and new brake bands. 866-264-9720. Larry


Oliver 1800 L.P. telescoping steering wheel

IP: 74.93.81.193 Posted on September 8, 2007 at 08:29:21 PM by Greg

Hi Larry, bought this tractor a few months ago and can't get the wheel to go out or in, there is a knob on top that fits your fingers, it has the oliver sheild on it. It turns counter clockwise to loosen it but nothing happens.I have put P.B. blaster down the shaft for months and nothing.It moves a little up and down about an 1/8 inch but thats it. I don't know if its that corroded or what. Any help would be appreciated thanks,Greg

Re(1): Oliver 1800 L.P. telescoping steering wheel

IP: 4.252.30.49 Posted on September 10, 2007 at 06:31:22 AM by Larry Harsin

I would suspect that it is corroded. You may have to disassemble it to get at the problem. You'll have to remove the steering wheel and remove the gauge panel, then remove the steering outer column, to be able to determine what is wrong and to correct it. Larry


Oliver 500 tractor

IP: 216.207.198.201 Posted on September 7, 2007 at 08:25:47 AM by james lehren

I'm looking for lucas ignition parts.this tractor was built in 1959 by david brown in england.it is a four cylinder gas engine.i need dist.cap points& condenser.dist.model#is D3A4

Re(1): oliver 500 tractor

IP: 4.252.30.49 Posted on September 10, 2007 at 06:25:48 AM by Larry Harsin

We were in Ontario Canada recently and made a contact for David Brown parts. Contact Elmer Landman at email: ejlandman@sympatico.ca Larry


Speedometer Oliver 1850

IP: 207.118.31.198 Posted on September 7, 2007 at 00:05:13 AM by Joel

I have a 1964 Oliver 1850 tractor that I am tring to restore. I resently found a replacement speedometer gauge and cable but cannot find where the speedometer cable attaches to the tractor.

Re(1): Speedometer Oliver 1850

IP: 4.252.30.49 Posted on September 10, 2007 at 06:22:47 AM by Larry Harsin

It attaches to the casting on the front of the bevel pinion shaft , on the front of the transmission. Larry


77 Propane

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on September 5, 2007 at 06:05:34 AM by Dan

Where there any late 77LP row crops made with the LP cylinder horizontal instead of vertical? Thanks

Re(1): 77 Propane

IP: 4.158.84.208 Posted on September 5, 2007 at 07:56:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Not that I know of, I've never seen one. Larry


serial number location

IP: 64.136.49.226 Posted on September 4, 2007 at 08:35:01 PM by Duane Hollister

If the name and serial number plate is missing, is there another location on an Oliver 660 tractor to find the serial number? With a missing number plate, what distinguishes a 660 from a super 66 other than paint? What are the current values of a 660 in good, excellent and restored condition? Thanks

Re(1): serial number location

IP: 4.158.84.252 Posted on September 4, 2007 at 11:21:16 PM by Larry Harsin

No. There is no other place. On a gas tractor, the design of the exhaust manifold is different on a 660 than on a S66. This is the main difference. You could look for casting dates on the engine block and on the under side of the transmission housing, or sometimes the cast iron frame that supports the engine, will have a casting date. Also, there is a build date stamped on the engine cylinder head, usually on the surface, where the thermostat housing sets. If you want to look at this, you'll have to remove the tractor hood and unbolt the thermostat housing. I have seen this info stamped in other spots on the machined surface on the top of the cylinder head. This stamped date is the date the engine was actually assembled, and will give you an idea of the age of the tractor. I believe this is the same for a diesel. Larry


1850 hydrapower

IP: 74.129.230.16 Posted on September 4, 2007 at 01:50:44 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, Just had the hydrapower fixed on my 1600 to the tune of $1400. I just acquired an 1850D and am worried about the HP on that tractor now. Can you run the tractor without the HP ? Can you just swap out with a used HP?

Re(1): 1850 hydrapower

IP: 4.158.84.252 Posted on September 4, 2007 at 11:12:19 PM by Larry Harsin

You could run it without the hydra-power, but it takes several expensive parts to swap it out so that you can eliminate it. If you put in a used unit, it may not be any better than the one that you have. If it is usable, I would use it the way it is. Larry


Generator to alternator.

IP: 216.248.68.198 Posted on September 2, 2007 at 09:26:51 PM by Tyler Stigge

I have a 1959 Oliver 880. I have been having alot of trouble with the generator keeping the battery up. I run in for about 4 hours and the engine will not turn over if it dies. I was thinking of replacing it with an alternator, but I will lose the power steering if I do a direct replacement. The other side has the air cleaner in the way. Is there a good replacement for the power steering pump? Possibly a 12V pump? Is there a better idea? A good place to refurbish the generator?

Re(1): Generator to alternator.

IP: 4.158.84.224 Posted on September 3, 2007 at 06:49:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I would get the generator repaired. I take mine to Worthington Ag Parts in Worthington MN. Their phone is: 800-533-5304. Larry

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