"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Sept. thru Mid Dec., 2000 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Sept. thru Mid Dec., 2000 Archives
88 PTO Disassembly
Posted by Joe on December 14, 2000 at
12:32:13: IP Address: 206.230.133.39
The long winded address below is for a
photopoint file picture of the pto drive hub on
the rear of the long shaft from the flywheel. If
the description below is not clear, it might be
helpful if you can pull up the photo.
Not sure how to get the hub off the shaft
without damaging things. I want to replace the
shaft (worn splines on frt) and rear seal. I have
removed one snap ring and the parts book
shows another ring inside, so appears the seal
and bearing have to press off the shaft to the
rear (over the splines). Not sure how tight the
seal wear ring and bearing are on the shaft. Am
I doing it right if I support the hub and press the
shaft towards the flyweel???
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1237322&a=9135689&p=35458493
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 14,
2000 at 15:34:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.48
In Reply to: 88 PTO Disassembly posted by
Joe on December 14, 2000 at 12:32:13:
Disassemble the clutch. Take the facings and
the center plate out. Then remove the 4 cap
screws that are secured with lock tabs and
remove front clutch cover assembly. Now all
you have to do is lay a piece of hard wood
(4x4) or something on the floor and then
with the engine end of the shaft on the wood
lift it up and slam it down on the wood and it
will drive the shaft right up through the hub.
It goes the opposite way from the flywheel.
The shaft comes out through the back of the
hub instead of the front of the hub. You
wouldn't have needed to remove the snap
ring. Larry
6 or 12 volt
Posted by Ben on December 12, 2000 at
23:25:49: IP Address: 38.28.162.10
is my 1948 oliver 77 tractor im restoring
have a 6 or 12 volt system
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 13, 2000
at 08:15:40: IP Address: 209.163.7.19
In Reply to: 6 or 12 volt . posted by Ben on
December 12, 2000 at 23:25:49:
Ben. All of them were built with 6 volt systems
but many of them have been converted to 12
volt systems. Does the tractor have a 6 or 12
volt battery in it? If it's been changed over and
has a 12 volt generator, the generator will have a
tag that says 12 volt. Also it will be stamped on
the base of the voltage regulator. Larry
Firing order for 77
Posted by ben on December 12, 2000 at
23:14:09: IP Address: 38.28.162.10
I have a 1948 oliver 77 and i need to know
what spark plug wires go to what terminal
on the distributer cap?
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 13, 2000
at 08:10:07: IP Address: 209.163.7.19
In Reply to: Firing order for 77 posted by ben
on December 12, 2000 at 23:14:09:
Ben. The firing order is: 1 5 3 6 2 4. You are
going to have to get the engine turned until you
are on top dead center number 1. To
accompolish this, turn the engine with the
number 1 spark plug removed until you feel
compression by holding your thumb in the hole
while someone turns the engine. Then remove
the timing cover on the fly wheel. This is below
the ignition coil. Continue moving the fly wheel
until you find top dead center (TDC) on the fly
wheel. Now you are at TDC #1. Now remove
the distributor cap and note the location of the
rotor and place #1 spark plug wire where that
rotor is in the cap. This thing rotates clockwise
so the next wire you install is #5 and right on
around the firing order. Then you should be able
to reinstall the cap and the spark plug you
removed and the engine should be ready to start.
Larry
88 engine removal / installation
Posted by Joe on December 11, 2000 at
14:31:43: IP Address: 206.230.133.22
During restoration, I'm now ready to remove
engine for paint stripping, cleaning, and
paint.
1. Is there any chance of a problem with
transmission & PTO shaft alignment after
disturbing the engine mounting. What if I
unbolt the front frame (tub) from the final
drive - is there a chance this could disturb
alignment?
2. Is the one long head bolt really suitable for
lifting a diesel engine or should I hook on
somewhere else? Does it balance at the bolt
with the bell housing on or off?
3. Hope you are better soon!
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 12,
2000 at 06:43:54: IP Address: 209.163.7.73
In Reply to: 88 engine removal / installation
posted by Joe on December 11, 2000 at
14:31:43:
Joe, it won't hurt to take it apart. Everything
has dowels and line up pins so that
everything will be correct when you put it
back together. That one long head bolt is
sufficient to lift the entire engine. That is
what it is there for. Leave the bell housing
on. Thanks for the wishes. Larry
Combine engines
Posted by Dan Korn on December 10, 2000
at 08:14:24: IP Address: 63.20.200.116
Larry; Do the 525 and 535 have the same
size (hp) engine and if not do you know
what the differences are? Also I have a 70
standard with complete sheetmetal for sale
and also a 770 and 66 with 3 pt. what would
be a fair $ for these? One more thing my
father has an M Oil-Pull that needs a oil
pump any ideas whop we can contact?
Thanks Dan Korn
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 10, 2000
at 19:21:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.38
In Reply to: Combine engines posted by Dan
Korn on December 10, 2000 at 08:14:24:
Dan, The 525 has a smaller engine than the 535.
Probably 10 hp less. They are both Chrysler's
and they look alike but the 525 is smaller. If the
tractors are complete and they run, I would say
$1500 for the 70, the 770 probably $2000 and
the same for the 66 with the 3 pt. There can be a
lot of variation with these figures depending on
where you live and their condition etc. I don't
know about the Oil-Pull pump. The last issue of
Antique Power Magazine had a lot of
information on Oil-Pulls. You might look up a
copy of it. Larry
Power booster swap
Posted by Allen Pruehs on December 09,
2000 at 07:36:06: IP Address: 206.31.56.32
Larry what parts will I need to swap a power
booster into a tractor that wasn't originally
equipped with one? Any particular rough
spots with the installation? I'm looking to
install a power booster in an 88 wheatland.
Thank you,
Allen Pruehs
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 09, 2000
at 17:18:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.12
In Reply to: Power booster swap posted by
Allen Pruehs on December 09, 2000 at
07:36:06:
Hi Allen, You should be able to swap all the
parts that you need. You will need the bell
housing for the engine and all the power booster
parts and the input shaft that goes into the
transmission. You will also need the backing
plate between the engine and the bell housing.
Larry
88 diesel
Posted by JS on December 07, 2000 at
20:58:54: IP Address: 205.188.196.57
Is there a way for the average week-end
mechanic to adjust and/or turn up the pump
on an 88 diesel to give it a little more zip?
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 08, 2000
at 06:55:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.4
In Reply to: 88 diesel posted by JS on
December 07, 2000 at 20:58:54:
Yes. There's a large plug on the back of the
governor housing on the top. Remove that plug
and reach in there with a small screwdriver and
turn that screw clockwise. Turn it about half a
turn at a time and try it. Don't give it too much.
If you overfuel the engine it is not good. This
small screwdriver will just fit into one side of
the nut in there. What you are doing is adjusting
the smoke screw which gives the engine more
fuel. Larry
Posted by JS on December 08, 2000 at
16:45:49: IP Address: 205.188.198.178
In Reply to: Re: 88 diesel posted by Larry
Harsin on December 08, 2000 at 06:55:45:
Thank you for that tidbit of info.
Purchased an 88 diesel today, starts and runs
real good, a little blow-by smoke from valve
cover breather (is this a problem) need both
sides rear side panels, have both front
louvered panels. Where can I purchase these
and at what cost?
Thanks again for the information.
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 09,
2000 at 17:22:16: IP Address: 209.163.7.12
In Reply to: Re: 88 diesel posted by JS on
December 08, 2000 at 16:45:49:
The blow-by is normal and shouldn't be a
problem. I have the panels you need. I am
laid up for a few days after a bit of surgery. I
will check on them when I can, to check
condition but I think they will be $50 - $60
plus shipping. Larry
question on oliver 70
Posted by teker on December 05, 2000 at
19:17:47: IP Address: 209.173.64.10
Hi Larry
I found an oliver 70 tractor that was in pretty
bad shape and
as the story goes it followed me home. I
want to get started fixing
it up but I ran into a problem. My tractor has
a mag and all the other
70's that I looked at were all ran by a
distributer. I would be
greatful if you could explain it. thanks
Kevin
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 07,
2000 at 17:08:46: IP Address: 209.163.7.62
In Reply to: question on oliver 70 posted by
teker on December 05, 2000 at 19:17:47:
Kevin. Most of the 70's were built with
magneto's originally and a lot of them were
changed over to distributors. If I were you, I
would prefer having the magneto if you can
make it work. Try it and see if it makes
spark. If it does not, there's a good chance
the points simply need to be cleaned. We
don't know where you are located, but it is
worth a little trouble to keep the magneto on
the tractor. The magneto relies on it's own
current and doesn't require a battery. If you
have a situation where it would be costly to
make the magneto work, then you might
want to consider going to a distributor. I
have distributors for sale. But if you can
make the magneto work, go with that. If you
need more info than this, write again. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on December 08, 2000
at 19:30:07: IP Address: 216.8.13.46
In Reply to: Re: question on oliver 70 posted
by Larry Harsin on December 07, 2000 at
17:08:46:
Oliver 70s had 5 differant versions of the
same engine in them. Some have a mag. on
one side some have it on the other,others
have a distributor. To make this happen the
timeing gears on the front of the engine
where changed. Not all the mag's where the
same.
PCV Valve / Oil
Posted by kb on December 04, 2000 at
21:43:13: IP Address: 63.15.85.229
Ever heard of oil coming out pcv valve and
ending up in air filter?? Have a 1992 Ford
f-150 and have found that oil is traveling out
pcv down hose and into air cleaner
housing?? Anyone know what this could be.
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 07, 2000
at 16:59:19: IP Address: 209.163.7.62
In Reply to: PCV Valve / Oil posted by kb on
December 04, 2000 at 21:43:13:
KB. Sorry about the delay in answering, I've
been having a bit of surgery. This could be
worn rings or bad valve stem seals. If it's a V-8
engine, it could be a bad intake manifold gasket.
This is not a good sign. No easy fixes here. I
agree with Don. Talk to your automotive dealer.
Larry
Posted by Don on December 05, 2000 at
21:51:35: IP Address: 152.163.213.78
In Reply to: PCV Valve / Oil posted by kb on
December 04, 2000 at 21:43:13:
it would probly help if you went to a ford dealer
or a automotive store and asked them for help.
Oil Pressure Need Battery Box
Posted by Richard Skinner on December 03,
2000 at 08:59:04: IP Address: 63.166.22.20
The oil pressure problem is fixed. I added a
few flat washers to the oil pressure relief
valve on the front right side of the engine
(283D). I now have 40 cold or hot and about
25 at a hot idle. Hopefully this was the
correct fix.
Next, someone robbed the battery box off
the right hand side of the tractor. If someone
knows where I can get one (lower half with
hanging brackets) I would appreciate it. My
email address is also listed in the header.
This 1650D is tough to crank over when it
gets cold especially when it drops below 50.
Its not hard to start if I have the cranking
speed how ever the 900 amp battery will not
crank very fast for very long after a 40
second pre-heat. Yes, it's a good battery. I'm
hoping dual 900 or 1000 cranking amp
batteries will help.
I thought maybe the starter is starting to get
weak and I need to check the amps it
requires however it doesn't even get warm.
How much is a r/b starter anyway? Does
anyone know the normal cranking amps
required for the 1650 D ?
Thanks,
Richard
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 03,
2000 at 13:20:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: Oil Pressure Need Battery Box
posted by Richard Skinner on December 03,
2000 at 08:59:04:
Hi Richard! I don't have the battery box or
bracket that you need. Call Tom at O'Brien
Co Impl: 800-320-6224. He will be able to
help you. Larry Harsin
Posted by larry on December 03, 2000 at
12:02:56: IP Address: 216.8.7.167
In Reply to: Oil Pressure Need Battery Box
posted by Richard Skinner on December 03,
2000 at 08:59:04:
I use a 29h battery in a 1600,1650,1850 with
no starting problems,but i don't use the
preheater just shoot ether in the plug hole in
the manifold. One shot does it. Most of my
preheaters don't work, but when they did
they drew too much power and then would
not start anyway. You should make it with
one battery, less expence less connections to
keep kleen. I removed all the double boxes
from my tractors.
Posted by Skinner on December 03, 2000 at
19:29:41: IP Address: 63.166.22.14
In Reply to: Re: Oil Pressure Need Battery
Box posted by larry on December 03, 2000
at 12:02:56:
How many cranking amps is the 29H?
Posted by larry wolfe on December 04, 2000 at
11:51:18: IP Address: 216.8.7.63
In Reply to: Re: Oil Pressure Need Battery Box
posted by Skinner on December 03, 2000 at
19:29:41:
Sorry i forgot to add my last name on the 29h
post above. I don't remember the amps exactly,i
guess its near 1000. Alot of things can affect the
cranking speed,battery cables,worn starter
bearings or gears.In my case i have a spare
starter that i can try if i think its the starter.
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 04,
2000 at 06:04:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.14
In Reply to: Re: Oil Pressure Need Battery
Box posted by Skinner on December 03,
2000 at 19:29:41:
Richard. I don't know. Ask your battery
salesman. Larry
88 Hydra-lectric Filter (Version II)
Posted by Joe on November 29, 2000 at
17:05:28: IP Address: 206.230.133.45
Have the Hydra-lectric apart during
restoration. Following the diagram in the
service manual and passages in the valves
and base plate, I can trace return fluid flow
from the spool to the filter. At the filter, the
fluid can go thru the outside of the element to
the inside - thru the hollow mounting bolt -
and dump in the reservoir (IE- filtered).
The part I don't understand, is why the
drilled hole in the casting (at the filter base)
also lets some or all of the fluid freeflow to
the reservoir without passing thru the filter.
Am I missing something??? I can E-mail a
couple of photo's if this is not clear or
understandable. It works OK, but I would
like to know how the filter really does
anything. Thanks.
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 29,
2000 at 17:44:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.14
In Reply to: 88 Hydra-lectric Filter (Version
II) posted by Joe on November 29, 2000 at
17:05:28:
Joe. This is not a full-flow filter. It is a
by-pass filter. That oil is coming in there
about 15 gallon a minute and that filter can't
handle that much, therefore the by-pass. It
filters a portion of it at a time. Larry
1994 Ford Explorer Xl problem
Posted by sue on November 28, 2000 at
18:40:35: IP Address: 209.179.79.140
Please give me some suggestions. I have a
1994 Ford Explorer XL. My finances are
low and I can't afford to take my truck to a
mechanic. When driving my battery guage
looks like it's overcharging. When I slow
down, it goes way down. My one battery
started smoking real bad and smelled like an
oil field. I put a different one in and when i
tried to start it it wouln't start. As soon as i
put cables on it, it started right up. As soon
as I let it run for a few minutes and the guage
showed full charge, I shut it off and it
wouldn't start again. When I use my power
window button, it pulls the battery guage
down and then back up. Any suggestions?
Please email me. As I mentioned, I don't
have alot of money and I need my car for
work. Sue
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 29,
2000 at 06:45:41: IP Address: 209.163.7.74
In Reply to: 1994 Ford Explorer Xl problem
posted by sue on November 28, 2000 at
18:40:35:
Sue. I don't have any suggestions for that
problem. I would take it to the Ford Dealer.
If you get an electrical system messed up in
those vehicles it is a nightmare. This is not a
place to try to save a few bucks. Larry
Posted by don on November 28, 2000 at
21:25:08: IP Address: 152.163.207.81
In Reply to: 1994 Ford Explorer Xl problem
posted by sue on November 28, 2000 at
18:40:35:
when running, the charging system should
actually be any where from 14-16 amps. if
when you jump it you hook the ground
someplace else in the engine compartment,
you could have a faulty ground battery cable,
and the alternator would still supply the
power for anything else, but when it comes
to start it up, the alternator isnt charging the
system so it wont have anything to turn the
starter. good luck on fixing the problem.
HART-PARR
Posted by Frank Jurenka on November 28,
2000 at 08:16:55: IP Address:
152.163.201.68
I have a pic of my families farm that shows
a rear view of a tractor that a friend believes
is a Hart-Parr of a vintage before the
12-24,Model E of 1924. Where can I find
out the model history of this firm to id the
model in my pic and where can I find a full
pic or ad of the model that preceeded the
12-24. Thank for your Help. Frank Jurenka
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 28, 2000
at 18:26:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.32
In Reply to: HART-PARR posted by Frank
Jurenka on November 28, 2000 at 08:16:55:
Frank. The 10-20C was the Hart-Parr that
proceeded the 12-24E. The 10-20C evolved into
the 12-24E during 1924. We have C.H.
Wendel's book entitled Oliver Hart-Parr that has
one picture of a 10-20C. I will copy it on a copy
machine and send it to you if you will email
your address to me. Larry
wiring help, hydra-lectric
Posted by Ryan on November 24, 2000 at
09:48:55: IP Address: 216.145.134.161
I was wondering if It would be ok to use the
black wire that powers
my hydra-lectric, which I am not going to
use, as a place to hook elelctrical
accessories, like the heater fan I am installing
in my cab. looking at the
wiring diagram, it seems to be a good place
to hook in, after the fuse, for this
purpose. will I be causing problems with my
hydraulic system if I cut this?
Ryan
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 24,
2000 at 19:16:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.70
In Reply to: wiring help, hydra-lectric posted
by Ryan on November 24, 2000 at 09:48:55:
Ryan. You can do that. It won't mess up
your hydraulics. Larry
Posted by Ryan on November 24, 2000 at
19:45:15: IP Address: 216.145.134.164
In Reply to: Re: wiring help, hydra-lectric
posted by Larry Harsin on November 24, 2000
at 19:16:18:
Thanks, I did it, thought it looked ok, just wasn't
sure how that
hydra lectric system worked, didn't know if it
need power even when
not in use. On the same thing, i was using it's
power to feed a blower
motor for a cab heater. hooked it in to the lines
to the hydra power,
but not alot of heat. noticed that the tractor never
really gets into
the black on the gauge, i suspect the thermostat
is stuck open. I can't
seem to find one in the catalogs i have, do i just
have the wrong
catalogs, or is this going to be hard to find. I
assume it is in the
large housing at the top of the motor, wanted to
get the new one in hand
before I took the old one apart.
Thanks again,
Ryan
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 25,
2000 at 07:44:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.42
In Reply to: Re: wiring help, hydra-lectric
posted by Ryan on November 24, 2000 at
19:45:15:
Ryan. You will have to get one from a White
Dealer or and AGCO Dealer. Larry
880 Fenders
Posted by Chester McTiegle on November
22, 2000 at 17:39:22: IP Address:
152.163.204.213
Hello Larry. I have a 1958 880 Diesel,
narrow front. It is almost identical to an 880
I grew up with. The big difference is that my
present 880 has the regular "clamshell"
fenders and the tractor I grew up with had
big round fenders that covered the top of the
tire. Some people hve told me that these
fenders were just a clamshell fender with an
extension bolted on. I feel pretty well sure
that the fenders on our old 880 were one
piece. I am completely restoring this tractor
and I want to have the same fenders that my
old 880 had. Could you please let me know
if I should be looking for fenders or fender
extensions? If you know where I might be
able to locate such parts could you please let
me know? Thank you very much for such a
wonderful website. This is a real treat for a
life long Oliver lover!
Thank you for your help.
Chester
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 22,
2000 at 20:57:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.91
In Reply to: 880 Fenders posted by Chester
McTiegle on November 22, 2000 at
17:39:22:
Chester. Your old fenders were 2 piece.
They were the clam shell with extensions. I
don't have any for sale and I don't know
anyone who does at this time. Thank you for
the compliment on our web site. Larry
wanted, oliver 550
Posted by Jim cobb on November 19, 2000
at 19:09:09: IP Address: 209.91.46.253
wanting to buy a oliver 550, restorable
condition,
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 20, 2000
at 06:36:12: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: wanted, oliver 550 posted by Jim
cobb on November 19, 2000 at 19:09:09:
Jim. I don't have a 550. There is one advertised
in the HPOCA magazine: 816-675-2328. Larry
fan belt for 1948 Oliver 99
Posted by Dan Kudrna on November 19,
2000 at 11:43:02: IP Address: 206.30.25.98
I'm looking for a fan belt for a 1948 Oliver
99 with a 4 cyl. Walkeshaw (sp?)
engine. S/N 514167066. The belt should
measure 53 43/64?quot; long and either
1 1/16?quot; or 1 1/8?quot; wide.
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 19, 2000
at 17:08:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.45
In Reply to: fan belt for 1948 Oliver 99 posted
by Dan Kudrna on November 19, 2000 at
11:43:02:
Don. These are very hard to find. T.H.E. (Tom
Hasenfritz Equipment) claims that they can
furnish any belt you need. Their phone:
800-634-4885. Larry
Posted by Don on November 19, 2000 at
12:49:22: IP Address: 152.163.207.84
In Reply to: fan belt for 1948 Oliver 99 posted
by Dan Kudrna on November 19, 2000 at
11:43:02:
you could probably go to an automotive store
and buy one. they should have it in the books
what the parts # is
what used loaders fit a 1650?
Posted by Ryan on November 12, 2000 at 20:21:59: IP
Address: 216.145.134.165
Don't know if this is really the right forum for this, but I
am having a hard time figuring out what
loaders will fit my 1650. When I see a used one
advertised, for example a IH 2000, how would i know if
it will fit my tractor? New loaders I have found info on the
web, but the ones in my price range (read old)
are harder to figure. I expect a little mount building, but I
can't seem to find info on older loaders or
anything on oliver loader numbers that will bolt on.
Someone told me that one that bolts to the axle is what
I need, but looking at my mounting points on the tractor,
that doesn't seem like it should be my only option.
I know that no one can give me a complete list of what
will fit, but does any one know any easy fits of loaders
that were commonly available? Oliver numbers would be
good too. I know where there is aN 1850 with an Oliver
loader, if they would seperate it would that bolt on? Any
insight would help, thanks in advance.
Ryan
Posted by larry wolfe on November 13, 2000 at 17:20:22:
IP Address: 206.15.135.111
In Reply to: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by Ryan
on November 12, 2000 at 20:21:59:
The most important thing is the hydrolic preasure of the
loader and tractor must match or be close. I have a case
loader on one of my 1650's. The 1650 has a 2000 lb rated
system that rules out all loaders that fit the old tractors. A
loader off a 1850 should be made to fit,the rear axel is
wider front to back. The best sorce for what fits used to be
the dealers for that loader.I have some loader info but they
don't list everything they can be made to fit.
Posted by Ryan on November 13, 2000 at 21:37:10: IP
Address: 216.145.134.164
In Reply to: Re: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by
larry wolfe on November 13, 2000 at 17:20:22:
I feel like I'm from palm beach, and am confused. "A
loader off a 1850 should be made to fit,the rear axel is
wider front to back"
does that mean it will fit a 1650, or is too wide? When did
the 2000 lb (psi?) system become common? When I say
older loader, I don't
really mean older than my tractor, just not a brand new
Westendorf TA 24. I was sent a picture of a Oliver 1609
that mounts to the
pad mounts on the frame, but another picture I have of an
oliver loader (unknown #) on a 1850 mounts to the rear
axle. I just want a
few ideas if I go to a tractor salvage yard what to look for.
If I call one and they say they have one that will fit, I am
not sure
how to find out how hard it will be to make it fit, and I
don't really want to trust someone and then spend more
money mounting it
than if I bought a new loader.
Ryan
Posted by larry wolfe on November 14, 2000 at 12:20:44:
IP Address: 206.15.134.233
In Reply to: Re: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by
Ryan on November 13, 2000 at 21:37:10:
The rears are about the same across side ways or
wide.The differance is that the bolt holes are wider front to
back,or you could say the axel is fatter. Oliver and many
other companies have both sets of holes or a clamp that
does not use the holes.The 2000 pound system came in
with the 1900,1800,1600 tractors or around 1960.Older
tractors like S88,770,IH M or H,2cyl deers etc. I have
seen many mismatched rigs at sales or for sale and
owners complain that they just could not make it work
right.Alot of these old loaders fit great but the cylinders
blow apart or they bend from to much force lifting.I found
the 1609 loader in my 1966 book,it does not say what it
fits.With a lift of 3000 pounds i would think it fits.
Remeber this is Larry Wolfe and i am giveing my best
guess.
Posted by Ryan on November 14, 2000 at 22:03:52: IP
Address: 216.145.134.161
In Reply to: Re: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by
larry wolfe on November 14, 2000 at 12:20:44:
Thanks, that cleared it up for me. I got a picture e-mailed
of a pristine 1650 with
a 1609 loader on it, so that tells me it would fit, but
finding one may be harder
than it's worth. I don't want ot search nationwide.
Thanks
Ryan
Posted by Don on November 16, 2000 at 20:19:22: IP
Address: 205.188.200.148
In Reply to: Re: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by
Ryan on November 14, 2000 at 22:03:52:
On my 1755, it came with an allis chalmers loader, not
sure what the model is or how hard it is to cobble it
together, but it clamps around the back axel, and then bolts
onto the front bolt holes on the frame. It has a oil reservoir
on the left side, but has the hoses running to the back
controls. i think it was made for a higher pressure, but it
does the job it has to. Remember I'm just saying whats on
mine, and if you could find one like mine, you might be
able to make it fit
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 17, 2000 at
06:23:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.99
In Reply to: Re: what used loaders fit a 1650? posted by
Don on November 16, 2000 at 20:19:22:
Hi Ryan, I have been gone for a week and havn't been
here to answer the email. These other guys seem to have
covered the question just fine. On these loaders, different
regions of the country offer different short line loaders.
You just have to do your investigating and see what fits.
Du-al and Westendorf are popular in our area and have
loaders that will work for you. Farmhand is another brand
that will work. Larry
550
Posted by Peter on November 04, 2000 at 18:55:40: IP
Address: 216.176.145.135
Larry,
I'm looking for both lifting links for the 3 point of my
550. The spools are so loose the stabilizer bars can't be
used. Would you have these? Also, I'm trying to make
sense out of the engine serial number. The tractor serial
number is 147-127-519 making it a 1964 model. The
shop manual I have indicates the 3 digit series engines
started at serial number 1055429. The engine serial
number of my 550 is 69452. It's located on the front right
side below the oil relief valve plug. The person I bought
the tractor from says it's been in his family since new and
has never had any major engine work requiring a
replacement block. What do you think?
Thanks,
Pete
Posted by larry wolfe on November 06, 2000 at 18:02:15:
IP Address: 206.15.134.230
In Reply to: 550 posted by Peter on November 04, 2000
at 18:55:40:
Pete all of these tractors have had alot of use and they are
old,so finding tight ones maybe hard. I would sugest
buying new ends from central tractor and weld them on
you lift arms.
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 04, 2000 at 19:22:39: IP
Address: 209.163.7.96
In Reply to: 550 posted by Peter on November 04, 2000 at
18:55:40:
Pete. I don't have the lifting links for your 3 pt. Contact Tim Smith
at Smitty's Tractor Parts: 330-832-9792 in Dalton OH. It's best to
call him in the evening. As far as the numbers on your engine, I
don't know. Since you've been told the history of the tractor, I
wouldn't worry about it. Could there be another couple of digits you
can't see in the number on your engine block? Larry
1650 questions
Posted by Ryan on November 02, 2000 at 17:15:53: IP Address:
216.145.134.90
I recently bought a 1965 1650 gas, and I need some mechanical
advice.
As when ever I buy something like this, first thing on the list is all
new fluids. This is went well until I got to the hydraulic fluid. In
the manual it shows taking out a 5/16(?) square plug, then it tells
you to run the tractor to drain fluid. Great. The problem is that
the plug was stubborn, and I was stubborn, to the point that the
plug barely resembles a square shape (it all happens fast with an
impact)and I still can't get it out. Is this the only way to get
that fluid out correctly? I do want to get that plug out, but if I
can't, do I have another option? On another subject, I assume that
this year,'65, does not have hardened valve seats. What is the best
solution to this? I imagine it would be expensive, maybe
impossible,
to get hardened seats put in. How much would it cost? What
additive
should I use if I can't afford the seats? I hope that this tractor
will be around for quite a while. I bought it for an acreage
tractor, basically, and want to get a loader for moving snow, and
just make it the last one I buy for my acreage, ever. thanx for any
help you can give,
Ryan
Posted by Larry Harsin on November 03, 2000 at 21:46:36: IP
Address: 209.163.7.75
In Reply to: 1650 questions posted by Ryan on November 02,
2000 at 17:15:53:
Ryan. I would not worry about valves or valve seats. They have
hardened valve seats. On draining the hydraulic, plug a hose into
the hydraulic coupling where you hook the cylinder on and pump it
out that way. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on November 02, 2000 at 18:39:51: IP
Address: 206.15.136.135
In Reply to: 1650 questions posted by Ryan on November 02,
2000 at 17:15:53:
Leave that plug where it is. Plug a hydrolic coupler with a open
ended hose on it into the remote outlet start engine and pull remote
lever untill oil stops flowing. It's much easyer to catch in a bucket
that way. Oliver used hardened valves and seats anyway, don't
worry about useing unleaded gas. The tractor needs NO aditives to
the gas. Stop the engine as soon as the oil is out because the pump
turns when it turns
Posted by Ryan on November 02, 2000 at 20:33:15: IP Address:
216.145.134.162
In Reply to: Re: 1650 questions posted by larry wolfe on November
02, 2000 at 18:39:51:
thank for the info. I am surprised that Oliver was that forward
thinking, but it is good
to know about th valve seats. Also good to hear that the hydraulics
will be easy. I
thought about doing it that way, but feared that it seemed to easy to be
the right way
if the manual said to do it a different way. I have one more question
(tonight) for this
great site, that is I am planning on having a friend of mine who is the
electronics guru
for the 8000 series at John Deere (I know, boo, hisss) Re-wire my
Ollie up to modern specs
with weather pack connectors and all, do I need the Hydra-Lectric? I
found the plug for it
dangling by the trans filter during my fluid changes, and I am not
really sure what I need
it for. I plan on using the hydraulics for stuff like a log splitter or
maybe a back hoe that
a friend has, but not any serious field implements like plows or discs.
If I don't need it
I will eliminate it and keep the plug around just in case.
thanks again for the info,
Ryan
Posted by larry wolfe on November 03, 2000 at 11:55:04: IP
Address: 206.15.135.60
In Reply to: Re: 1650 questions posted by Ryan on November 02,
2000 at 20:33:15:
The hydro electric will only work with oliver hydro-elc cylinders. I
don't kow anyone that uses this system anymore. It's too hard to
keep working.
oliver 770 listed for sale
Posted by Jerry on October 31, 2000 at 18:47:30: IP Address:
63.14.66.176
What is the asking price for the oliver 770 you have listed this
date? I have an oliver 770 currently and pull it in the Apple Country
Tractors Pullers Assn. Enjoy old tractors and found your site quite
interesting. Thanks, Jerry M.
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 31, 2000 at 22:19:08: IP Address:
209.163.7.47
In Reply to: oliver 770 listed for sale posted by Jerry on October 31,
2000 at 18:47:30:
Jerry. I am asking $2750 for the 770. Larry
late model Super 88
Posted by JS IN on October 29, 2000 at 20:44:38: IP Address:
205.188.193.51
What are you asking for Super 88?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 29, 2000 at 22:55:48: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: late model Super 88 posted by JS IN on October 29,
2000 at 20:44:38:
I am asking $3250. Larry
77-88 or Super 77-88
Posted by JS IN on October 29, 2000 at 20:37:40: IP Address:
205.188.193.51
Tell me differences between 77-88 and Super 77-88. Weight , hp
and options?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 29, 2000 at 22:54:11: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: 77-88 or Super 77-88 posted by JS IN on October 29,
2000 at 20:37:40:
The Supers had larger engines and heavier drive trains. The later
Supers had 12 volt electrical systems. The 77 - 88 were built until the
fall of 1954. The Supers were built until the fall of 1958. As far as size
and weight, they were pretty much all the same. With the Supers there
were larger tires for the increased horsepower. The last 2 yrs. of the
Supers they introduced power steering as an option. I doubt if over
20% of them were sold with power steering. Larry
1850 OLIVER
Posted by T erry Davis on October 27, 2000 at 18:20:41: IP
Address: 205.188.198.179
My dad bought an 1850 oliver tractor new in 1965. After 4400
hours or so the engine siezed up. It was overhauled by the dealer.
After only 50 hours the engine started using oil, overfilling the
radiator with oil, No water is mixing in the crankcase, This tractor
sat idle for 8 years, the dealer not finding or willing to correct the
problem at his expence. We decided to have another mechanic look
at it. He replaced the head gasket, but the problem still exist. Any
answers?
Posted by Skinner on December 03, 2000 at 09:10:51: IP Address:
63.166.22.20
In Reply to: 1850 OLIVER posted by T erry Davis on October 27,
2000 at 18:20:41:
Forgive me if this is incorrect but Doesn't an 1850 (310TA) have an
oil cooler? Or is that a 1950?
If that is the case I would have it checked out. We loose oil coolers all
of the time and they WILL transfer fluids either way.
People will state that coolant can not enter the oil because the oil
pressure is higher, I can prove that is not the reason because I believe
that when this occurs it is when everything is cold and the engine is
not running. It also is common for oil to transfer into the cooling
system, which will happen when she is running.
Now, I'm not an oliver mechanic but I am a Waukesha mechanic, and
If I remember right, that oil cooler is mounted in/behind the oil filter
housing.
Again, I thought there was a 310TA in the 1850's but I'm really not
sure.
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 28, 2000 at 06:42:37: IP Address:
209.163.7.96
In Reply to: 1850 OLIVER posted by T erry Davis on October 27,
2000 at 18:20:41:
Terry. I've had it where the oil is being forced into the water jacket past
the O rings on the bottom of the sleeves. This does not sound
possible, but it does happen, especially on this model. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on October 30, 2000 at 11:53:30: IP Address:
206.15.134.85
In Reply to: Re: 1850 OLIVER posted by Larry Harsin on October
28, 2000 at 06:42:37:
You will have to replace the blook to solve this problem. The raditator
and cooling system are preasurized ,so for oil to enter it has to enter
where the oil is at a higher preasure. This means the block is cracked
between the oil gallery and the water jacket. There is no preasurized oil
in the head so it may be ok.
880 pushrods
Posted by grant on October 25, 2000 at 20:17:49: IP Address:
216.183.128.2
I am having trouble with pushrods jumping out of place on 880
diesel . I am plowing clay with 4-14 trail plow and on hard lugging
#1 pushrod would jump out [ exhaust] I was checking under
rocker and found rocker was scored and metal filings so I replaced
with good used one. To day on heavy pull # 3 and#5 jumped . I
wonder now if rocker rack is wore out after 40 years running? The
head was done 5 years ago and oil changed yearly[50 hrs] Any
ideas?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 26, 2000 at 06:16:13: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: 880 pushrods posted by grant on October 25, 2000 at
20:17:49:
Grant. It's not getting enough oil up to the rocker arms. I would blow
the oil passages. Then check the oil pressure at the sending unit on the
filter base. Try to get at least 15 lbs. of oil pressure at full throttle. You
can slightly stretch the spring on the front right hand corner of the
engine block. If these things do not help, remove the oil pan and first
check the oil inlet screen on the oil pump to see that it's not clogged. If
the oil inlet screen is o.k, I would check for loose main bearings. Larry
1755 block
Posted by Don on October 25, 2000 at 13:32:39: IP Address:
205.188.193.177
about how much would a waukeshaw block cost for a 1755? a
family friend has a 1755 that was just overhauled, and his brother
threw a rod through the block. now i might buy it and fix it if the
prices are right. it would probly need the crank and atleast the
connecting rods. maybe the pistons to depending on how bad the
inside looks
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 26, 2000 at 06:19:42: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: 1755 block posted by Don on October 25, 2000 at
13:32:39:
Don. A rebuildable short block for a 1755 is real hard to find. I'm
guessing it will take at least $2000. Larry
Posted by Don on October 26, 2000 at 10:23:50: IP Address:
64.12.104.57
In Reply to: Re: 1755 block posted by Larry Harsin on October 26,
2000 at 06:19:42:
would it be easier to just go with a whole new engine? my dad thinks
a cummins, but i was thinking more towards perkins. what do you
think?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 27, 2000 at 06:09:30: IP Address:
209.163.7.92
In Reply to: Re: 1755 block posted by Don on October 26, 2000 at
10:23:50:
Don. It would be better to go with a new engine. I would choose the
Cummins. The life expectancy and the fuel economy is so much
better. The main problem now is cost. Is the tractor going to be worth
what you are spending? Larry
Posted by Don on October 28, 2000 at 10:37:22: IP Address:
64.12.104.59
In Reply to: Re: 1755 block posted by Larry Harsin on October 27,
2000 at 06:09:30:
If anything else, i can use it for a parts tractor. our 1755 has its own
share of problems, including the front axel that i twisted last year
while plowing. when it was fixed the 1st time, the pin used was a size
too small, so the axel still had some play, and eventually broke again
while moving some big square bales.now with the correct size pin
being used, it still has some play and shifts back and forth when
changing direction. If i could get a new loader frame that would fit my
massey ferg. 165, i would take the one off the 1755 and put the cab on
it off the other one. If anything, it would be nice to get the other 1755
so i could put off the engine work on the other. either way im going to
have to wait til spring. also, i contacted a dealer about the oil pressure,
and they said it should be fine, just that we should get it in the shop as
soon as we dont need it for a while. i plowed last night with it, and the
oil pres. remained constant around 20 psi, so i think i will put it off for
a while.
oliver 1755 gas
Posted by Mark on October 23, 2000 at 05:56:34: IP Address:
156.46.252.153
Hello. Thanks for a great oliver website. I have the chance to buy a
1755 gas was wondering how good a starter this tractor is in cold
weather,also what kind of price is a fair asking price for this tractor,
about 5000 hrs. overhauled at 3500 hrs. good rubber. thank you,
Mark
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 23, 2000 at 06:20:52: IP
Address: 209.163.7.24
In Reply to: oliver 1755 gas posted by Mark on October 23, 2000
at 05:56:34:
Mark. A tractor like that in good condition has a price range of
$3500 to $6000. I saw one sell at a farm auction last spring - in
excellent condition with cab and wide front - for $6250. These
tractors start good in cold weather. Larry
Posted by Julius on November 27, 2000 at 22:21:49: IP Address:
209.253.186.9
In Reply to: Re: oliver 1755 gas posted by Larry Harsin on October
23, 2000 at 06:20:52:
Mark,
I agree with Larry. I have a 1550 gas that sat in the field for about 2
and a half years. I just finished redoing the top end about 2 months
ago, and it still needs the carb rebuilt. Larry may correct me if I'm
wrong, but the gas engins in the 1550 and up are BASICALLY the
same. Again with the need for a carb rebuild, I can start it in cold
weather with barely any choke. It is just a great tractor.
Julius
Oliver 88 Hydraulic System
Posted by gary on October 18, 2000 at 10:43:01: IP Address:
208.211.4.86
Larry,
My buddy just purchased a 1952 Oliver 88 Row Crop (diesel) We
notice two hydroelectric switches/controls mounted on the steering
wheel. How (what) di they work?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Gary
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 19, 2000 at 05:28:04: IP Address:
209.163.7.58
In Reply to: Oliver 88 Hydraulic System posted by gary on October
18, 2000 at 10:43:01:
Gary, That was an option on the 88. They controled the hydraulic
valves. In today's terms we call this electric over hydraulic. It also
made it so you could adjust the depth stop on the hydraulic cylinder
without getting off the tractor. There are 3 series of hydra-lectric units.
Naturally, the 3rd. is the best. The 1952 was probably equipped with a
1 or a 2 series if it is original. Larry
1755 Over/Under
Posted by Kevin L. Dea on October 16, 2000 at 20:19:30: IP
Address: 209.180.47.211
I have obtained an over/under out of a 1755 Oliver and have it all
torn down.
I have all of the parts (seperated) I want, except for the ring gear. I
cannot
seem to get the center shaft out of the ring gear. Is there a trick to
this, or
is it not made to come apart? I have one of the snap rings, on one
side out, and
I tried removing the shaft that way, with no success. Does the shaft
only come out
one way. I cannot get the other snap ring removed to try removing
the shaft the
opposite way.
Any insight would be much appreciated. I really would like to
make this work. This
planetary set seems ideal for what I am trying to make.
Thank you for the help.
Kevin
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 17, 2000 at 04:29:24: IP
Address: 209.163.7.34
In Reply to: 1755 Over/Under posted by Kevin L. Dea on October
16, 2000 at 20:19:30:
Kevin. I havn't worked on a 1755 so I can't help you. Larry
1755 oil pressure
Posted by Don on October 11, 2000 at 17:37:23: IP Address:
205.188.200.166
hey Larry!
i havent been here for 2 months mainly because lightning took out my
computer, but i was wondering what the proper oil pressure should be for
my 1755 deisel. when started up in these cold october mornings, it will get
up to 40psi,but then after running it for a while under load it will drop all
the way down to 10. i talked to someone who restores oliver crawlers, and
he said the absolute min. they should run is 6, but i still think thats kind of
pushing it.I was wondering if trying a thicker oil would help or if the
pump is just worn and needs to be replaced? when i get the money saved
up in a couple years i want to restore my 1600 and 1755 back to mint
condition, so im looking for a cheaper way out on these repares
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 12, 2000 at 04:51:52: IP Address:
209.163.7.70
In Reply to: 1755 oil pressure posted by Don on October 11, 2000 at
17:37:23:
Don, I'm afraid you have worn crankshaft bearings. I would take the pan
off and inspect the bearings and see what's required. I wouldn't keep using
it that way or you might lose and engine. Larry
Posted by don on October 12, 2000 at 20:08:05: IP Address:
205.188.195.174
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Larry Harsin on October 12,
2000 at 04:51:52:
about how much would it cost to get new bearings? or even have a shop do
that?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 13, 2000 at 04:36:43: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by don on October 12, 2000 at
20:08:05:
Don. The other Larry's suggestion about checking the bearings is correct. To
have a shop replace the bearings should be approx. $400. Maybe a little more
or less. Larry
Posted by Don on October 13, 2000 at 19:18:08: IP Address:
205.188.195.181
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Larry Harsin on October 13,
2000 at 04:36:43:
i would think the bearings would be original equipment seeing as how it only
has around 4100 hours on it. while i have the pan off i should probly have the
pistons pulled and get new rings. it has a little bit of blow-by and oil comes
out the exaust. how much would the rings run me? i think it has the
waukeshaw engine
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 14, 2000 at 04:26:15: IP Address:
209.163.7.96
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Don on October 13, 2000 at
19:18:08:
Don. I'm guessing that this is a diesel. If you start tearing into things, you
might find you need more than rings. You will just have to look it over. By
the time you get new rings and gaskets and bearings, a rough guess would be
around $800. Larry
Posted by Don on October 14, 2000 at 19:33:11: IP Address: 64.12.104.41
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Larry Harsin on October 14,
2000 at 04:26:15:
its starting to sound like one hell of a project. i would tear into it now but we
need it for plowing and then to plow snow in the winter, as long as it starts. i
guess i just gotta leave it plugged in over night
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 15, 2000 at 05:34:48: IP Address:
209.163.7.4
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Don on October 14, 2000 at
19:33:11:
Don. I would recommend putting new bearings in it before doing any more
work. The other things can wait but I would definitely replace the bearings.
I'd also recommend changing the oil more often than the recommended
intraval since the engine is in that condition. Larry
Posted by Don on October 15, 2000 at 08:51:29: IP Address: 64.12.104.169
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Larry Harsin on October 15,
2000 at 05:34:48:
thanks for your advice. ill give it an oil change but i still think i gotta put off
the main engine work because i just cant afford anything right now
Posted by larry wolfe on October 15, 2000 at 17:20:44: IP Address:
206.15.135.253
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Don on October 15, 2000 at
08:51:29:
One tractor my father had acted like yours. Someone did a poor job of
instaling the valve seals. They leaked in 2 cylinders causeing the rings to
carbon up and stick. I replaced the rings and seals and put it back togather. It
ran fine and used no oil. But replaceing the bearings did not improve the oil
preasure, The space in the crankshaft for the thurst bearing was too wide and
could not be filled by a new bearing. He would not alow me to remove the
crank,said it was too expensive to fix. The oil preasure was low anytime the
engine was warm. I replaced the tractor as soon as i could.
Posted by Don on October 15, 2000 at 19:57:26: IP Address:
205.188.198.176
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by larry wolfe on October 15,
2000 at 17:20:44:
i still gotta rip the pan off and take a look at the bearings.cross your fingers
for me. i guess i can use our massey 285 on the plow, but it just dont
work as good on our oliver plow. it always seems to jump out of the
furrow
Posted by larry on October 12, 2000 at 10:29:41: IP Address:
206.15.134.201
In Reply to: Re: 1755 oil pressure posted by Larry Harsin on October 12,
2000 at 04:51:52:
If you take the pan off look to see if you have the updated bearings, they
have 3 holes instead of 6.They can make a differance in oil pressure.
Governor adjustment on 77
Posted by Dennis M. on October 11, 2000 at 09:32:10: IP Address:
170.49.43.1
I have "all" the manuals on adjusting the governor, however, there is no
way I can adjust governor to throttle linkage with 1/16" over travel. There
isn't enough threads on the rod. After placing the governor lever in the full
open position at the steering wheel, it pulls the governor lever so far back,
I don't have enough threads on throttle rod (in full open position) to make
it fit. Governor bumper spring adjustment was found to be all the way in.
How do I zero out all adjustments and start a new? Or is my governor
worn out?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 12, 2000 at 04:47:07: IP Address:
209.163.7.70
In Reply to: Governor adjustment on 77 posted by Dennis M. on October 11,
2000 at 09:32:10:
Dennis, You will have to take the governor housing off the engine. The
governor is not necessarily worn out, but I'm sure the thrust washer between
the gears and the engine block is worn quite thin or completely gone. Look
for worn parts and replace as necessary. Also the thrust spool and the bearing
in front of the weights may be worn badly. After getting worn parts replaced,
you will be able to accomplish the adjustments you have been attempting.
Larry
Oliver bulldozer?
Posted by M. Berry on October 08, 2000 at 19:25:44: IP Address:
152.163.197.77
I recently bought a small bulldozer. The previous owner told me it was a
1951 Oliver. I can't find any serial number, model number, or any
identification at all. It has 5 1/2 foot blade, 4 cylinder flathead engine, 3
speed transmission, the tracks are 10 inches wide. I'd like to identify it so
that I can get the right shop manuel. Can you help me? Thanks!
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 09, 2000 at 05:39:03: IP Address:
209.163.7.83
In Reply to: Oliver bulldozer? posted by M. Berry on October 08, 2000 at
19:25:44:
It's either an HG or an OC 3. The last HG's were built in 1951 and after that
they were OC 3's. The OC 3's were yellow. The HG's were green. They were
the same Oliver Cletrac crawler. Larry
Remember the 283D Overhaul?
Posted by Richard on October 04, 2000 at 04:42:42: IP Address:
63.166.22.45
Howdy Larry!
Something that happens as I run my freshly rebuilt 1650 that I find a little
strange. When I fire her up cold, and take the engine wide open I have
about 28# of oil pressure, but after the engine warms up, the oil pressure
comes up to about 35-37#.
Don't you find that strange also? Normally you see the oil pressure drop a
little when it gets warm. I tried this with a new gauge also. Any clues to
whats going on?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 04, 2000 at 06:22:14: IP Address:
209.163.7.63
In Reply to: Remember the 283D Overhaul? posted by Richard on October
04, 2000 at 04:42:42:
Richard, It's probably some foreign material on the pick-up screen on your oil
pump. In other words, the screen is partially plugged. Larry
Posted by Richard on October 04, 2000 at 18:54:44: IP Address:
63.166.22.21
In Reply to: Re: Remember the 283D Overhaul? posted by Larry Harsin on
October 04, 2000 at 06:22:14:
Well, to tell you the truth, that is the only symptom that came to mind, as the
oil thins it would feed better into the pump. Its not hard for me to tell, I can
bore scope the oil pan (look inside without removing it) but I'm pretty darn
carefull, I sprayed it all down good before I bolted the pan on so I really
doubt a rag was left in there. Any other suggestions?
New Mains, Rod Brgs, and cam brgs and everything was well in spec. I
never could get the relief valve out of the front right side of the block though.
I tried several things. I started to use a tap and try to turn and pull it but never
did.
How is that oil pressure sound to you as far as 35 at 2200 RPM warm?
Any other ideas?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 05, 2000 at 05:25:31: IP Address:
209.163.7.26
In Reply to: Re: Remember the 283D Overhaul? posted by Richard on
October 04, 2000 at 18:54:44:
Richard, 35lbs at 2200 RPM sounds good. I don't have any other
suggestions. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on October 08, 2000 at 07:25:46: IP Address:
206.15.134.9
In Reply to: Re: Remember the 283D Overhaul? posted by Larry Harsin on
October 05, 2000 at 05:25:31:
One thing I have found before is a screen filled with gasket compound like
permatex or silicone after a new overhaul. The stuff squeezed to the inside
ends up in the screen. The intake is not blocked just partly filled. Engine oil
thats to thick will do it too.
S88 and S77 disc brakes
Posted by Bud Halverson on October 03, 2000 at 19:34:46: IP Address:
205.188.192.44
Hi Larry
I have a Super 77 that is missing the complete brake assembly on one side
(cover, actuater discs, etc.) I have a Super 88 Diesel that I am parting out.
Are the brake assemblys the same?
Thanks--Bud
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 04, 2000 at 06:19:31: IP Address:
209.163.7.63
In Reply to: S88 and S77 disc brakes posted by Bud Halverson on October
03, 2000 at 19:34:46:
Hi Bud, I think that will work. Try it and see. Larry
tune up super 55
Posted by Dave on October 02, 2000 at 15:15:58: IP Address:
216.229.174.42
Have Super 55 Gas model.
SN 23-299-518 Spec # 15-00019 (from plate on left sider of engine.)
Starts good when cold. Starts hard when hot. Loses power & blows fire
from exhaust pipe under load
I believe it to be out of time and in need of general tune up but can not find
tune up specs.
Can you help?
Thanks
Dave
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 02, 2000 at 22:09:36: IP Address:
209.163.7.18
In Reply to: tune up super 55 posted by Dave on October 02, 2000 at
15:15:58:
Dave, You need an Operator's Manual. It has all the tune up specifications in
it. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at the Floyd Co. Museum in
Charles City: hpocacc@fiai.net Larry
Oliver 1550 Gas
Posted by Julius Kerekes on October 02, 2000 at 08:17:54: IP Address:
209.253.186.16
Larry,
I posted a question about an Oliver 1550 Gas with timing problems in
early august and you sent me back some information. I just wanted to let
you know that I got the tractor running the other day and wanted to thank
you since that was due in great part to the info I got from you. The oil
pump was inserted 180 degrees out and I had to rerun the firing order
from that point.After a head and valve cover gasket, and much silever
solder to fix the cracks in the cast iron valve cover, she does run like a
dream now and I have only minor mechanical, and lots of cosmetic work
left. If you like pictures, and you want to see before and after pics of her, I
will send them to you. Just let me know where to send em.
I was wondering if you can tell me the model of Marvel-Schebbler
Carburator that was used on the 1550. I need to rebuild it and the origional
tag is gone from the carb.
Also do you know where I could get a used seat assembly and what I
might expect to pay for it.
Again, thanks for the info you provided. I couldn't have gotten it running
without it.
Julius
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 02, 2000 at 09:20:58: IP Address:
209.163.7.51
In Reply to: Oliver 1550 Gas posted by Julius Kerekes on October 02,
2000 at 08:17:54:
Julius, Glad to hear I was of help. The model of Marvel-Schebler
Carburator is TSX-903. For a seat assembly, call Tom at O'Brien Co.
Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1960 Oliver 550 Diesel Tractor
Posted by Robert King on September 30, 2000 at 18:20:22: IP Address:
63.104.205.199
Need a pressure plate for PTO for my tractor. Know where I can get one?
Posted by Larry Harsin on October 01, 2000 at 05:57:01: IP Address:
209.163.7.33
In Reply to: 1960 Oliver 550 Diesel Tractor posted by Robert King on
September 30, 2000 at 18:20:22:
Robert,
I do not have this pressure plate. Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. in
Sheldon, IA 800-320-6224. Or call Tim Smith at Smitty's Tractor Parts in
Dalton OH 330-832-9792. It's best to call Tim of evenings. Hope this helps.
Larry Harsin
Super 55 steering
Posted by Delbert on September 23, 2000 at 20:53:11: IP Address:
205.188.198.159
I have the steering gear box apart, the guides for the balls are not full, there
appears to be room for two or three more in each guide, is this normal?
Thanks Delbert
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 24, 2000 at 08:08:42: IP Address:
209.163.7.17
In Reply to: Super 55 steering posted by Delbert on September 23, 2000 at
20:53:11:
Delbert, I think so. If everything works smooth without catching, I think that
is the way it is supposed. Larry
1600 Front Weight
Posted by Bob Semrau on September 19, 2000 at 10:05:19: IP Address:
208.223.205.166
Larry,
I recently bought some front weights at an auction, but I need to find
the "first" weight that bolts to the grill that the weights I bought stack
on top of (they kept those with the tractors at this auction). Is this
weight hard to find or expensive ?
Thanks,
Bob Semrau
P.S. You may not remember me, but I finally got my PTO adjusted so
that even
though it turns a little with no load, it works right when connected up.
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 19, 2000 at 12:11:53: IP Address:
209.163.7.52
In Reply to: 1600 Front Weight posted by Bob Semrau on September 19,
2000 at 10:05:19:
Bob, I remember you and the PTO problem. I'm glad it is solved
somewhat. Right now I don't have an extra basic weight. They aren't hard
to come by. Try calling Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
Posted by Bob Semrau on September 20, 2000 at 06:36:57: IP Address:
208.223.205.166
In Reply to: Re: 1600 Front Weight posted by Larry Harsin on September
19, 2000 at 12:11:53:
Larry ;
Thanks. Now I know what to ask for (basic weight) - I wasn't sure what the
first one was called.
Oliver 70 paint
Posted by rooster on September 19, 2000 at 03:02:48: IP Address:
12.28.99.4
Hi Larry, would you happen to know what the paint codes are for a 1939
Oliver 70 Standard (wide front)?
Are the wheels red, yellow, or green? What shade of green is the body?
Thanks.
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 19, 2000 at 05:12:05: IP Address:
209.163.7.8
In Reply to: Oliver 70 paint posted by rooster on September 19, 2000 at
03:02:48:
Rooster, The 1939 Oliver 70 uses Martin Senour 99L-11511 (Green). The
wheels are red Martin Senour 99L-3752. Larry
Researching Son's Oliver 70
Posted by Pam Garland on September 18, 2000 at 17:30:16: IP Address:
152.163.201.74
I'm currently researching my son's Oliver 70 that was delivered from a
Dealership in our home town (Lizton, In) in 1947-1948 from Rawlings &
Bowman Oliver Dealership. I would like to find information about when
the dealership existed and hopefully documentation of that serial # being
sent to that dealership. My son is the fourth owner and the two prior
owners were family. The tractor never left our township or caounty as far
as ownership. We now parade and show it with pride, with what we know
so far. Any help from out there would be greatly appriecated. I keep
running into brick walls on the local history level and the fact that most the
old-timers are gone that would have dealt with the dealership.
Thanks
Pam
Pamela5454@cs.com
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 19, 2000 at 05:20:19: IP Address:
209.163.7.8
In Reply to: Researching Son's Oliver 70 posted by Pam Garland on
September 18, 2000 at 17:30:16:
Pam, I don't know of any listing of Oliver Dealerships. Since the tractor
has never left the county, I believe that is where your research will have to
center. I would try to trace it through the owners. Where each one bought
the tractor etc. The serial number will tell you what year the tractor was
built. Sometimes these things will remain a mystery. Larry
Disk Front Steel Wheels - Oliver 60 Row
Posted by Dusty M. Erickson on September 15, 2000 at 16:19:12: IP
Address: 208.198.103.254
Larry: What is the diameter of the factory disk front steel wheels for an
Oliver 60 Row Crop versus the Oliver 70 Row Crop. I have heard they
are different sizes? How much would one expect to pay for these and are
they considered rare & hard to locate???
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 16, 2000 at 12:01:09: IP Address:
209.163.7.4
In Reply to: Disk Front Steel Wheels - Oliver 60 Row posted by Dusty M.
Erickson on September 15, 2000 at 16:19:12:
Dusty, On the 60, the diameter is 15 inches. On the 70 the diameter is 16
inches. The 60's came with 500x15 tires. The front wheel should cost from
$25 - $35. They are not overly rare. Larry
Posted by Dusty on September 16, 2000 at 15:55:19: IP Address:
208.198.103.62
In Reply to: Re: Disk Front Steel Wheels - Oliver 60 Row posted by Larry
Harsin on September 16, 2000 at 12:01:09:
Larry...Are you speaking of the front rims for rubber tires. I need the
diameter of the steel disk type wheels Part # H-729 (no rubber). for 60's and
70's, price, and rarity.
Thanks
Dusty
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 16, 2000 at 21:00:48: IP Address:
209.163.7.72
In Reply to: Re: Disk Front Steel Wheels - Oliver 60 Row posted by
Dusty on September 16, 2000 at 15:55:19:
Dusty, I don't have any of the steel wheels to measure. Call Arnold Meyer
at 507-372-7788. He can tell you. Larry
1900 power steering
Posted by mike hobbs on September 13, 2000 at 17:02:10: IP Address:
24.25.227.133
i have an oliver 1900 series A. recently it has developed a leak where the
steering shft goes in to thr steering gear, and the power steering has
stopped working.the hydraulics work normally still, and replacing the
flow divider didnt help the steering.it has the oliver/gemmer steering
gear.do you thunk the gear needs to be rebuilt, and are the parts avaible ?
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 13, 2000 at 20:45:18: IP Address:
209.163.7.73
In Reply to: 1900 power steering posted by mike hobbs on September 13,
2000 at 17:02:10:
Mike, If you want to send the unit to me, I can repair it. I'll have to know
exactly where it is leaking. There are still a few parts available and some seals
and I'll attempt to repair it so you can use it. Two of the seals are $25 each.
Larry Harsin, 3426 170th. St., Estherville,IA 51334
oliver 70 head gasket
Posted by jeff walker on September 13, 2000 at 14:32:31: IP Address:
216.220.4.164
hi larry and sandy, do you know where i can buy a new head gasket for
my oliver 70? thanks!
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 13, 2000 at 16:17:10: IP Address:
209.163.7.36
In Reply to: oliver 70 head gasket posted by jeff walker on September 13,
2000 at 14:32:31:
Jeff, I looked in the T.H.E. Co. catalog and on page 1-15 they have a
complete set and head sets - not individual gaskets. Their phone is
800-634-4885. Larry
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 13, 2000 at 16:06:40: IP Address:
209.163.7.58
In Reply to: oliver 70 head gasket posted by jeff walker on September 13,
2000 at 14:32:31:
Jeff, Check with your automotive jobber who handles Felpro gaskets. Larry
Harsin
1755 Over - Under
Posted by Kevin Dea on September 11, 2000 at 21:31:01: IP Address:
63.224.179.150
Mr. Harsin
I am interested in learning the mechanics of the over under hydro power
is in an Oliver 1755. On our farm we have one of these tractors that
seems to have a direct drive range, an under drive, and an overdrive.
Are the mechanical concepts of this "over/under" similar to say that
of a TA that is found in a 560 Farmall???? That is a simple planetary
gear set that is engaged to provide gear reduction. Or is there more
to it.
I need to know this information for a small scale project that I am working
on. I would need only the mechanical part of the over under to hopefully
be able to provide a 3 speed power shift. Could you possibly give me the
a rough dimensional size of what the mechanical gear are that accomplish
the over and under driven gears.
Any info is greatly appreciated.
If you would like to know more, please free to email me @
kdea@iastate.edu.
Thank you.
Kevin L. Dea
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 12, 2000 at 19:07:20: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: 1755 Over - Under posted by Kevin Dea on September 11,
2000 at 21:31:01:
Kevin, This is a completely self-contained unit with underdrive, overdrive
and direct with hydraulic clutches and planetaries. It has a provision for
cooling (a cooling radiator). I'd rate it as a very trouble free dependable
unit. This is more complex than the TA in the 560. You can get a service
manual from Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors in Charles City, IA. Contact
Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. This manual will have
drawings and specs and have it all broken down for you. Larry
Posted by larry wolfe on September 12, 2000 at 11:22:05: IP Address:
206.15.134.1
In Reply to: 1755 Over - Under posted by Kevin Dea on September 11,
2000 at 21:31:01:
The clutch discs are hyd. operated they are about 5 inch. It's hard to
imagine anyone useing these parts without the whole unit. The planetary
gears are bolted to the clutch,and the sprage clutch(under drive) must run
in oil. You need hyd. preasure to operate both direct and overdrive. The
only good thing is it is all contained in one unit,except for cooling.
Posted by Kevin Dea on September 12, 2000 at 12:11:22: IP Address:
207.177.35.137
In Reply to: Re: 1755 Over - Under posted by larry wolfe on September 12,
2000 at 11:22:05:
How big is the entire unit itself? I've never seen one.
Is there a seperate hydrualic pump to run these clutch discs then.
Do you have any ideas where I could get a schemtic of this setup
to look at. An old service manual or something.
Thanks for your response.
Kevin
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 12, 2000 at 19:10:04: IP Address:
209.163.7.46
In Reply to: Re: 1755 Over - Under posted by Kevin Dea on September 12,
2000 at 12:11:22:
Kevin, This unit will weigh approx 200 lbs. and is roughly 18 inches square.
Larry
loader for 77 standard
Posted by Jason Scholten on September 07, 2000 at 22:25:05: IP
Address: 216.145.193.166
Larry,
I was wondering if you know of anyone who makes a loader for a 77
standard? The local implement dealers seem to have no problem finding
one that will work on a row crop, but not for the standard. Also, how hard
is it to install a hydraulic system on the 77?
Thanks, Jason
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 08, 2000 at 05:37:16: IP Address:
209.163.7.69
In Reply to: loader for 77 standard posted by Jason Scholten on September
07, 2000 at 22:25:05:
Jason, I will have to research that a bit. You may have to take a regular loader
to a welding shop and have it modified to fit. I'm thinking about an Oliver
model 1510 loader. That might work. The hydraulic system is fairly easy to
install on a 77. If you decide you need one, I can supply one. Larry
Posted by Jason D. Scholten on September 08, 2000 at 21:12:03: IP
Address: 216.145.193.98
In Reply to: Re: loader for 77 standard posted by Larry Harsin on September
08, 2000 at 05:37:16:
My father runs a small welding shop out of his house, and I am a Millwright
by trade, so welding and fabricating mods will be no problem. Someone told
me recently that "Wessendorf?" makes loaders for smaller tractors, and that if
we could buy the arms and bucket, we could make the mounts.
How much would a Hydraulic kit cost? Where does the pump mount?
Thanks again for any info you might have.
Posted by Larry Harsin on September 09, 2000 at 05:25:42: IP Address:
209.163.7.64
In Reply to: Re: loader for 77 standard posted by Jason D. Scholten on
September 08, 2000 at 21:12:03:
Jason, The hydaulic unit (number 3 series) sets on top of the transmission. It
would cost approx. $500 for a reconditioned unit. I have these on hand. I am
chopping sileage now, but as soon as I get a little time, I will check on
Westendorf and some others. Miller makes a good loader, too etc. Larry