1600 hydraulics

IP: 99.183.201.23 Posted on September 29, 2009 at 08:07:52 PM by W.D. Blevins

I'm currently working on a 1600 restore. Have been using the tractor for some time now with a hydraulic pump that seems weak. The tractor has to be at around 1500-1700 rpms to lift a round bale or operate a du-all loader up and down that is mounted on the tractor. The tilt on the bucket seems to operate at a much higher speed than the 3-point or the up and down travel on the loader. Have tried adjusting the restrictor valves with little success as one is froze and cannot turn adjusting screw. Can you still find these restrictor valves? Also, I have been looking for pumps just in case, but everywhere has the notation that if tractor has a external relief valve pumps will not work. I don't know what I have. My tractor has the external divider valve for power steering on the hydraulic housing. The numbers on the tractor are close to unreadable but as near as I can read the are model # 16-1105 and the serial# is 145 074 067. Please help as I love the old tractor but just am not the knowledgeable about it.

Re(1): 1600 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 29, 2009 at 11:23:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1600 was built in 1964. It is a late one. It sounds like your pump is getting weak. You should get a new one. You can get one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Either of these places will have the restrictor valves.One that has the external relief valve takes a different pump than the internal relief valve. Tom will get the right pump for you. Describe for him what you need. Larry

880 Diesel Power Steering

IP: 74.103.162.180 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 01:50:20 PM by Steve

Larry - what would you look at first on a Power steering system on an 880 Diesel that turns hard. Oil is up, but foamy. Pump unit mounted behind Generator. Is there a test to diagnois? Thanks

Re(1): 880 Diesel Power Steering

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 29, 2009 at 06:05:35 AM by Larry Harsin

If there is slack or sloppyness in the steering wheel, I would guess the steering unit needs to be taken apart and be readjusted. Otherwise, the pump may not be developing sufficient pressure. You can test the pressure by installing a gauge in the pressure line to the unit. It should develop 700-900 lbs. Larry

Re(2): 880 Diesel Power Steering

IP: 74.103.162.180 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 05:58:04 AM by Steve

We had the unit apart to replace some seals that were leaking. Could the unit have air in it ? Is there a correct procedure to bleed the unit or does it work the air out by itself ?

Re(3): 880 Diesel Power Steering

IP: 75.105.44.87 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 10:41:00 PM by Larry Harsin

It works the air out by itself. Keep adding oil and see if it gets to working. If not, send the unit to me and I will fix it for you. 3426 170th St. Estherville IA 51334. Larry

oliver 99 LP

IP: 12.165.80.170 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 11:41:02 AM by joe

Did oliver make an oliver 99 LP gas? I purchased one on an auction, but I think it may have been a conversion to LP? Do you have an pics of one or can I tell by the serial # if it was an LP model?

Re(1): oliver 99 LP

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 10:55:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think there were any factory 99 LP's. There were conversions. You can't tell by the serial numbers. Larry

880 decals

IP: 76.69.47.203 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 11:34:18 AM by Don

Can you tell me what year and/or serial number the 880 changed from the white decals to the black decals. Thanks. Don.

Re(1): 880 decals

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 10:54:00 PM by Larry Harsin

They changed on the last year's production - 1963. Larry

1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 163.153.134.12 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 09:24:42 AM by robert lapage

Hello. We have 1650 oliver diesel tractor. We had the motor rebuilt and now are tring to get the hydrolics to work. There are 2 wires that go from the shifter to a (selenoid) Do those wires have to be in tact to work. The power steering works but the return line from the power steering gets very hot. Any suggestions!! He cleaned out all valves etc. They were rusty from sitting.

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 29, 2009 at 06:01:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Those 2 wires are connected to the safety starting switch on the gear shift lever. When they are connected, the tractor won't start when it is in gear. Lower the 3 pt. hitch arms and leave the arms down and see if the power steering still gets hot. The 3 pt. hitch control adjustment (below the 3pt. hitch lever), might be out of adjustment. That may be causing the arms to go too high and that makes the oil get too hot. Larry

Re(2): 1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 163.153.134.12 Posted on September 29, 2009 at 06:43:52 AM by robert lapage

I meant to say the lever that operates the 3 point hitch has wires that run to a plate or switch. The arms do not go up or down? Its the 2 levers that work the hyd. outlets that have wires. Do they have to be hooked up for things to work?

Re(3): 1650 hydraulic pump

IP: 75.105.44.87 Posted on October 1, 2009 at 10:35:06 PM by Larry Harsin

Those wires were for the remote cylinders and the automatic depth stop on the cylinders and no one uses them anymore. You may have one of the levers for the external cylinders, out of position. It needs to be centered, otherwise the valve is trying to send oil out to the remote cylinder and it is blowing the relief valve in the hydraulic pump and causing it to get hot. Larry

oliver 1600 hydraulic remote set up

IP: 75.199.192.250 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 02:50:24 AM by jason

i have a 1600 oliver i recently bought a round bailer that has 4 lines i was told that the tractor can be set up for that my question is i no where the two on right are and one on left that is pluged i am not sure where the other one on left is i am asuming it should be 1/2in to being as the other 3 look to be that size there is a bigger plug on left right by end of platform looks3/4in would that be it

Re(1): oliver 1600 hydraulic remote set up

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 06:34:44 AM by Larry Harsin

There are two 1/2" outlets, on each side, for the remote cylinders. Both sets are on the same level on the housing on the tractor. Each side should correspond. You need an Operator's Manual. This is shown in the manual. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City 641-228-1099 or there is a link on our "home page". There are detailed instructions about this in the Operator's Manual. Larry

550 Gas governor

IP: 72.198.216.18 Posted on September 27, 2009 at 06:27:52 PM by Larry K

I just replaced the governor on my 550. It also has a rebuilt carb with a new pistons. I had it on the dyno and could not get more than 28 HP. The governor just did not seem to open up. Everything was set up by the book to get both low and high speed. How should I approach the problem?

Re(1): 550 Gas governor

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 06:29:09 AM by Larry Harsin

There must be some linkage catching or binding that is causing your throttle to not open up. Something binding or bent......... Larry

seal in timing gear cover

IP: 208.126.84.198 Posted on September 27, 2009 at 05:45:51 PM by Jim

Larry, Yesterday I replaced the oil seal on the inside of the timing gear cover on a 1965 770 gas tractor. I was disappointed after I got everything back together to see oil dripping past that seal. The inside of the timing gear cover is worn to the point that there are grooves worn into the metal by ( I presume ) the old cork spring loaded seal. Will the new seal wear into those grooves in time or do I need to find a new or less worn gear cover? Thanks

Re(1): seal in timing gear cover

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 06:27:15 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd give it some time to wear in, like approx. 100 hrs. It will probably stop leaking. Larry

oliver 1950T

IP: 67.140.108.127 Posted on September 26, 2009 at 02:10:56 PM by Larry

I just did a complete filter change to our tractor,oil,hydra,air, and fuel.The tractor ran OK before but now has a miss. We have bled the fuel filters. When it is running under load it will try and come out of it but when load decreases the miss returns. Can someone please help

Re(1): oliver 1950T

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 27, 2009 at 07:24:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have an injector that is hung up. Watch for oiliness or wetness around the exhaust ports on the manifold. That will tell you which injector to have checked. That's where I would start. Larry

Water in gear & hyd. oil

IP: 216.226.11.244 Posted on September 25, 2009 at 09:58:00 AM by Bob T

Oliver S55 tractor It sets for months at a time and condenses water into the gear oil and hydraulic oil. the seals are all good.Would it help to plumb the vents to some type of filter? What type of filter to use? Maybe one to remove water from air compressor lines or some type of fuil filter?

Re(1): Water in gear & hyd. oil

IP: 75.105.52.118 Posted on September 26, 2009 at 06:10:16 AM by Larry Harsin

My experience is that if the gear shift boot is good, you should not get water into the transmission compartment. You can get a new gear boot from Korves 618-939-6681 or your AGCO Dealer. The hydraulic may be condensation somewhat. If you follow the instructions in the Operator's Manual, it tells you how often to change the fluids. That should be followed to avoid this. I don't think filters are the way to go. Larry

Super 77 RC Gas- Disc Brakes

IP: 69.221.170.61 Posted on September 25, 2009 at 08:07:25 AM by Terry Allen

When removing the cover plates, found oil in the mechanisms. Assume it came from the final drive, past the seals? What is involved to replace the seals (1M-1110?)? Are special tools required? How far do i need to go into the transmission?

Re(1): Super 77 RC Gas- Disc Brakes

IP: 75.105.52.118 Posted on September 26, 2009 at 06:04:38 AM by Larry Harsin

On the S77, it is not difficult to replace those seals. However, before replacing seals, check the oil level in the transmission to be sure it isn't over filled. Also, there are drain holes that let out oil that gets past the seals. Those holes are probably plugged with dirt. What I'm saying is that often you can clean the brakes and open the drain holes and it will be fine. If you have to install new seals, remove the brake housing and install new seals. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 RC Gas- Disc Brakes

IP: 99.51.89.71 Posted on September 26, 2009 at 09:24:43 AM by Terry Allen

Thanks. Where are drain holes in relation to the brake housing? How large are the drain holes?

Re(3): Super 77 RC Gas- Disc Brakes

IP: 75.104.188.223 Posted on September 27, 2009 at 07:26:37 AM by Larry Harsin

They are on the bottom, just outside of where the seal is. You can stick an eighth inch punch into the holes. Larry

Oliver 77 RC

IP: 24.138.31.190 Posted on September 25, 2009 at 07:56:58 AM by Art Hill

would like to slow down my oliver from its present 2.5 mph low gear .Is there another smaller gear I could use say from an industrial model. Thanking you in advance for your help .Art

Re(1): Oliver 77 RC

IP: 75.105.52.118 Posted on September 25, 2009 at 06:38:47 PM by Larry Harsin

There are different ring gear-pinion combinations that were available for those tractors. You would have to look in various salvage yards and used parts places to find something that is a different ratio than you have. The Industrial gears are faster combinations because they were smaller wheels. Larry

880 oliver / perkins

IP: 75.201.176.22 Posted on September 23, 2009 at 12:35:38 PM by Dusty

Larry im putting a 354 perkins in my 1959 880. im having trouble finding the clutch i should put in. i want to go with a 13 inch clutch out of a 1850 or so but cant remember if the slines on the 880 shaft will match. any suggestions? thanks Dusty

Re(1): 880 oliver / perkins

IP: 75.105.50.137 Posted on September 23, 2009 at 08:43:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I have never done that. I'm pretty sure that won't match up. Larry

770 governor

IP: 208.126.84.198 Posted on September 22, 2009 at 08:52:37 PM by jim

Larry, I'm working on the governor linkage on a 1965 770 (gas). When the governor control is at the top of the governor quadrant, the engine will idle between 350 and 400 rpm, as per the operator's manual. However, when I place the governor control at the bottom of the governor quadrant, the engine is running at 2150 to 2200 rpm, several hundred rpm's over rated speed. I've tried to follow the instructions in the operator's manual but I can't seem to get the linkage adjusted correctly. What am I doing wrong.

Re(1): 770 governor

IP: 75.104.191.48 Posted on September 22, 2009 at 10:46:23 PM by Larry Harsin

First check the bumper screw in the front of the governor housing. Back it out a way and see if that helps. If it isn't that, there should be 19 active coils on the governor spring. If that engine is over speeding, with 19 active coils, remove the governor housing and check the inside for worn or broken parts. Larry

1755 timing

IP: 208.107.64.222 Posted on September 22, 2009 at 05:12:28 PM by mark

My brother is trying to install a fuel pump on a 1755 for a neighbor who had the pump off too have it worked on. I have done it in the past but do not remember exactly the procedure?

Re(1): 1755 timing

IP: 75.104.191.48 Posted on September 22, 2009 at 10:37:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the valve cover and watch the rocker arms as you turn the engine, and when the number 6 exhaust closes and the intake on that cylinder just begins to open, you are on Top Dead Center number 1. Then, install the pump. Larry

Oliver 1800 PTO shaft installation

IP: 67.224.11.17 Posted on September 20, 2009 at 08:32:04 PM by Chris

Have an 1800 that had a bad 2 speed, so I bought a used one at a local junkyard out of a 1650. Put that in, got it all together, but I cannot get PTO shaft to slide all the way. About 8 inches sticks out the back. Wondering if I need a different PTO shaft or is something just not aligned properly. Thanks Re(1): Oliver 1800 PTO shaft installation

IP: 75.105.44.42 Posted on September 21, 2009 at 05:29:39 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1650 2 speed is different than an 1800 2 speed. The main difference is the input shaft where it goes into the 2 speed. The 1650 input shaft is smaller than the one in an 1800. The PTO shaft is hitting the small hole in the input shaft and can' get through it. You might be able to make it work if you use the input out of the 1800 2 speed in the hydra power out of the 1650. If it won't, you're out of luck. If you need to, give me a call. 712-362-2966 Larry

1960 1800A

IP: 74.163.79.212 Posted on September 19, 2009 at 10:23:09 AM by Dave Leslie

I am curious as to just how rare (or not) my 1960 Oliver 1800A is. I need a tach cable for it. Where would be the best place to buy one? BTW...the radiator will be finished Monday and hope to have it running by that afternoon.

Re(1): 1960 1800A

IP: 75.104.190.161 Posted on September 19, 2009 at 08:26:36 PM by Larry Harsin

For the tach cable, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. I don't consider the 1800A a rare tractor. There are probably more of them than there are B's or C's. Larry

1947 & 1953 88RC

IP: 69.92.5.162 Posted on September 16, 2009 at 07:55:26 PM by MIKE

CAN I REMOVE THE MECHANICAL LIFT ARM BOX AND THE HEAVEY CAST TRANS TOP COVER FROM THE 47 AND REPLACE IT WITH THE ALUMINUM TRANS COVER MINUS THE HYDRAULIC PUMP OFF THE 53. IS THERE A MARKET FOR A SUPER 88 DIESEL CYLINDER HEAD

Re(1): 1947 & 1953 88RC

IP: 75.104.188.136 Posted on September 17, 2009 at 07:03:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can replace it that way. You may have to grind a bit out of the aluminum lid so that it will fit the hanger bearing for the PTO shaft. That might interfere. Yes, there is a market for the S88 diesel cylinder head. You could advertise it in the Oliver magazines. Oliver Heritage magazine: www.oliverinformation.com HPOCA magazine: www.hartparroliver.org Larry

oliver 1550

IP: 69.54.118.254 Posted on September 16, 2009 at 09:26:26 AM by hillbilly

working on oliver 1550 the distributer cap fell off and the wires came undone wondered if you new the order the go on the cap it is the 6 cyl.

Re(1): oliver 1550

IP: 75.104.188.136 Posted on September 17, 2009 at 06:56:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Normally, the No.1 spark plug wire goes into the cap in the hole that is closest to No. 1 cylinder. Then, the rotation of the distributor is clockwise, with the next hole No. 5 then 3 then 6 then 2 then 4. Larry

Grain drill

IP: 69.129.144.134 Posted on September 16, 2009 at 07:17:52 AM by jim lowery

would you know the year a oliver superior model no 26 serial no 26- 36088 was made?

Re(1): Grain drill

IP: 75.104.188.136 Posted on September 17, 2009 at 06:53:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I would guess the late 40's or early 50's. Contact the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. They may have that info. 641-228-1099. Larry

77 valvetrain tick

IP: 24.44.167.125 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 08:13:51 PM by chris mcglauflin

the same tractor has what seems to be a very audible valve tick. before its induction into our haymaking fleet it sat for three years with a stuck exhaust valve which i fixed with marvel mystery oil adjusted the valves and this tick would drive me nuts and how do i reduce carbon buildup on internal components shes a little rich??? larry ure the man and i hope you can help me, ive got 2 rake 30 acres of 2nd cutting tomorrow !

Re(1): 77 valvetrain tick

IP: 75.104.189.137 Posted on September 15, 2009 at 05:55:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the valve cover off and see if any of the valves are running without oil. To reduce carbon build up, set the load adjustment on the carb a little bit leaner. Larry

1900 throttle question

IP: 68.47.34.209 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 06:18:04 PM by JDH

I need help with my throttle shaft on my 1900. When I got the tractor someone had some makeshift rod from the engine to the throttle shaft. I have tried several combinations of bending a new rod not to bind and yet open the throttle wide open. No success. It seems like the clutch shaft always gets in the way. Any ideas? I assume the throttle shaft on the engine needs to open all the way? Not too familiar with the detroits. What did the original one look like?Thanks for any advice.

Re(1): 1900 throttle question

IP: 75.104.189.137 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 07:09:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I know what you are talking about and I know they are a problem. You might be able to get a new rod from your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have a dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1900 throttle question

IP: 68.47.34.209 Posted on September 16, 2009 at 04:49:05 PM by JDH

Thanks for the response. Are the 1950's like that too or did they revise that issue?

Re(3): 1900 throttle question

IP: 75.104.188.136 Posted on September 17, 2009 at 06:51:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Some of it was similar. Larry

1800 overheating

IP: 74.163.79.212 Posted on September 13, 2009 at 12:43:27 PM by Dave Leslie

I just purchased an Oliver 1800 diesel and within 30 minutes of using it to pull a pulverizer it started running hot. When I started to remove radiator cap it boiled over and went up in a cloud of steam. Looks as though someone had put a water pump on in the past and the radiator had good clean antifreeze in it. I was told motor has had some work done on it and there are signs that may be true. Radiator flutes are clean and seem to be pulling plenty of air through there. Anyone have any ideas on what I need to do to fix problem?

Re(1): 1800 overheating

IP: 75.104.189.137 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 07:04:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I would check to make sure the thermostat is operating properly. Make sure it has a good fan belt and it is tight enough. With the tractor cooled down, start it up with the radiator cap off and look to see if there are any air bubbles coming up. Hopefully you don't see any. This would indicate getting compression into the water jacket. Larry

Re(2): 1800 overheating

IP: 74.163.79.212 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 01:43:36 PM by Dave Leslie

I check and there are no air bubbles in the system. Took thermostat out and tested it on the stove in a pot of heating water and it worked fine, but I have a new one on order. Pulled radiator and it looked "suspect" so I took it to local shop and will be sure it is up to par before putting it back in. Lastly, pulled water pump and made sure padddles were turning and it was fine. I hope once I get it all back together with new thermostat and radiator repaired I will have the problem fixed. Thanks for your help

brake reassembly Super 55

IP: 75.104.118.16 Posted on September 13, 2009 at 08:07:01 AM by Andy

Is there a trick to reassembling the brake pads and disc on a Super 55? The disc is held in place by three cap screws but to get them in place I angle the brake housing cover which moves the brake pads on the spline.

Re(1): brake reassembly Super 55

IP: 75.104.189.137 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 06:58:32 AM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. It just takes a little time. An important thing is not to over torque those 5/8 bolts as they can distort the brake housing assembly. I would suggest 35 foot pounds of torque. They don't have to be real tight. Larry

Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - PTO

IP: 69.208.8.54 Posted on September 12, 2009 at 09:39:49 PM by Terry Allen

How difficult is it to change the PTO seal?

Re(1): Super 77 Gas RC 1955 - PTO

IP: 75.104.189.28 Posted on September 13, 2009 at 06:16:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO unit has to be taken apart to do this. It would help you to get a Service Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should have one of those also, but it won't help you in repairing your PTO. If you aren't experienced with doing this type of thing, it could be difficult, but if you are somewhat experienced,,,,,,, it is difficult for me to say. Larry

oliver hydro hoses

IP: 24.44.167.125 Posted on September 12, 2009 at 12:56:14 PM by chris mcglauflin

i've got a 1953 oliver 77 and i just got the hydraulics to work but i'm not sure i have the lines hooked up correctly i only want to use the left side for a dual acting cylinder on my haybine can u help me???

Re(1): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 75.104.189.28 Posted on September 12, 2009 at 08:30:33 PM by Larry Harsin

The rear outlet should go to the base of the cylinder. The other side is just the opposite. Larry

Re(2): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 24.44.167.125 Posted on September 13, 2009 at 01:56:35 PM by chris mcglauflin

so you are saying that the rear is active and the front is passive and opposite the the two on the right outputs ??? ps thanks in advance youve been most helpful

Re(3): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 75.104.189.137 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 06:55:33 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I'm saying that the rear outlet on the left side is supposed to go to the base of the cylinder. Both outlets have the same amount of pressure, it is just the direction of the cylinder when you move the lever. Larry

Re(4): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 24.44.167.125 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 02:14:42 PM by chris mcglauflin

oh ok so where does the return for the cylinder get plumbed into? sorry i dont know sqwat about oliver hydraulics. when i pull the left lever down it operates the front left port i push it up it operates the left rear port. shouldnt the left rear pressurize the cylinder by pushing up and drop it down when i pull down?? im confused ??? thanx for all your help i appologize for my lack of knowlege

Re(5): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 24.44.167.125 Posted on September 14, 2009 at 08:00:10 PM by chris mcglauflin

larry my father just explained the whole system to me and now i get it, the oil is put into the cylender on the left rear or left front it doesnt really matter the pressure is relieved from the opposite of the side of the cylender top/ bottom that recieves the pressure

Re(6): oliver hydro hoses

IP: 75.104.190.161 Posted on September 20, 2009 at 12:41:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Now, you have it. Larry

1955 oliver, year 1972

IP: 216.161.91.140 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 10:21:24 PM by e firestone

speaking of hydra-power shifters... yesterday i plowing with a 4 bottom plow on the tractor in real tough sod... and as the afternoon wore on the hydra power unit started getting a more audible whine in the low range position in 4rth gear.... was i just going to hard on it... today i was using the tractor with a 12 foot glenco culivator and all ok... though i did use the tractor in the direct drive position and took it easy...there did not seem to be any slippage and the unit operates correctly at all times....oil level is ok and still crystal clean....

Re(1): 1955 oliver, year 1972

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 12, 2009 at 06:36:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I doubt if you were working it too hard. I would say, if there is something wrong, it will manifest itself in the future. It may be a bearing or something. For now, I'd be inclined to leave it alone. Keep good oil in it etc. Larry

hydro power

IP: 74.110.71.11 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 06:27:41 AM by mike h.

in the 1755 and 1655 and 1855 i see where they have the 18 speed over,under, direct. Did they put that type of trans in an 1850 with a perkins motor. what kind of diff. is there between hydro power and shift

Re(1): hydro power

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 07:59:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Not in the 1850, but it is in the 2-105 and 2-85. The differential is about like an 1850 or an 1855. If you mean difference, it is the extra 6 speeds. (diff. ??) Larry

Re(2): hydro power

IP: 4.248.221.89 Posted on September 13, 2009 at 12:48:28 PM by Larry from MD

The 2 speeds have a 30% reduction in them. The 3 speeds have a 20% reduction and a 20% overdrive. Some guys claim that the last of the 1850's could be had with a 3 speed, you don't see many, but they are around.

Oliver 77 Standard Clutch Return Spring

IP: 71.146.144.153 Posted on September 9, 2009 at 10:29:39 PM by Karl

Is there a trick or a special tool for to installing the clutch return spring on a Standard 77? Does the long end that passes through the hole in the clutch bell housing simply hook over the clutch release lever, or is there a particular hole in the clutch release lever that it hooks into, and in which case, how do you find it "blind" with the bell housing installed over the clutch? And, how do you get enough leverage on the spring to spread it far enough to hook the other end into the hole provided under the belt pulley housing? This seems like it should be a simple job, but it has me stumped!

Re(1): Oliver 77 Standard Clutch Return Spring

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 06:12:46 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a special hole in that clutch lever in the bell housing. You can use a flashlight and see it as you are working through there. It can be done. I use a pair of long-nose Vise Grip pliers to hook the spring at the back. It is a challenge, but can be done. Larry

S55 sticky brake

IP: 75.104.118.16 Posted on September 8, 2009 at 02:16:32 PM by Andy

Yesterday left brake sticking 1 mile from home. Let sit 3 hrs drive home no problems. Today disassembled brake housing, inspected plates, 3 ball bearings, 2 springs no obvious problems. Reassemble and now stuck worse than before, even with brake adjuster disconnected. Any ideas? Thanks!

Re(1): S55 sticky brake

IP: 204.116.207.228 Posted on September 9, 2009 at 09:08:48 PM by Johnny

You may have the drum bolts too tight.This distorts the drums and locks the brakes.Especially in damp conditions. If expander or drum has a lip worn on it,try lightly grinding or filing it off to make the surface flat. Expander springs get weak if brakes have been overheated. Keep your brakes adjusted correctly

Re(2): S55 sticky brake

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 06:09:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Johnny gave you good information. You may have to put new springs on the brake plates and you may have to replace the brakes discs, as they become oil soaked. Larry

model no and serial no

IP: 75.117.0.110 Posted on September 8, 2009 at 04:48:26 AM by jim h

The metal I D tag on my 1550 has model no 155-2212 ser no 160 492-504. What does the model no mean and what year was the tractor built thanks Jim

Re(1): model no and serial no

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 06:06:23 AM by Larry Harsin

The model is just an identification number. I don't have information on these moder numbers, but I do have serial number charts. The serial number is 160 492. It was built in 1965. The 504 in your serial number is a transmission code. Larry

pump

IP: 71.153.27.180 Posted on September 8, 2009 at 02:38:38 AM by Case

can a factory roosamaster pump from an oliver 1855 work on an oliver 1955 ?

Re(1): pump

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 06:03:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will work. Larry

Oliver 880

IP: 74.103.162.180 Posted on September 4, 2009 at 03:35:05 AM by Steve

Larry - We just finished reassembling a 880 Diesel which was purchased in parts. Problem: Can't get it to run. The Head totally redone. The injectors were rebuilt at a shop. Timing is at the "FP" mark with No. 1 in compression stroke. Injection pump timed to marked tooth on gear at pointer. Firing order correct. Get white smoke - not fire? The pump is original- not worked. The only thing we didn't get worked. Could it be it is too weak to pop the new injector springs? Fuel just dribbling in with no pattern ? We are stumped, definately missing something. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 880

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:56:52 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have the pump timed to number 6 instead of number one. When you have number one cylinder on compression, look for the marked tooth on the injection head of the pump. This may be the problem. Sorry to be so late in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show in Pennsylvania. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 880

IP: 74.103.162.180 Posted on September 28, 2009 at 01:47:02 PM by Steve

Larry - hope had good time at show. We kept at it and found there were 2 timing marks on the gear hub on the pump. When we timed to the mark we thought was for TDC. The tractor started right up.

Decals

IP: 65.73.101.221 Posted on September 3, 2009 at 05:21:25 PM by Randy Anderson

Larry do you know where i can get a decal set for a 1950 88 standard gas? Thank for the site you have saved me a lot of head aces!!

Re(1): Decals

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:53:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Lyle Dumont has decals. Email: oliver@lisco.com. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Show in Pennsylvania. Larry

Oliver horse plows

IP: 66.225.134.73 Posted on September 2, 2009 at 03:29:09 PM by david bailey

I live in Alberta, Canada and I would like to restore and use a 2 bottom gang plow which I believe is an Oliver. However, all the part numbers begin with the letter P, eg. P7176. Can you inform me if this would be an Oliver plow or is it made by some other company. Were part numbers different between plows sold in Canada vs USA? Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver horse plows

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:50:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The part numbers would be the same in the 2 countries. Typically the numbers for the Oliver plows are EP. Check with the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. They have all of the info on Oliver equipment. Their email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Super 77 Gas- No Ignition Spark

IP: 99.164.63.74 Posted on September 1, 2009 at 07:12:18 PM by Terry Allen

Assembled tractor after painting and can't get any spark. New points, condensor, rotor, distributor cap, coil, plug wires, plugs. Getting voltage to the coil and verified that points have ground. Any suggestions? Should the positive on the coil be connected to positive on the battery with a positive ground system? Any help greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Super 77 Gas- No Ignition Spark

IP: 99.164.58.1 Posted on September 2, 2009 at 06:29:11 PM by Terry Allen

Found the problem- a new bad coil.

Re(2): Super 77 Gas- No Ignition Spark

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:45:54 AM by Larry Harsin

The positive post on the coil goes to the points if you have a positive ground system. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show in Pennsylvania. Larry

Manifold

IP: 71.169.246.151 Posted on September 1, 2009 at 03:09:10 AM by Jerry

Larry, I noticed in some parts book there seems to be a piece of metal that separates the manifold from the hood. I would think it would be to help keep the hood cool so it won't deteriorate That is for an Oliver 70 model.

Re(1): Manifold

IP: 74.205.199.160 Posted on September 3, 2009 at 02:17:32 PM by Eric

My 70 had a piece of asbestos like material with some thin metal brackets riveted to it that mounted between the manifold and valve cover. I ended up leaving it off after I painted it because there was not much left.

Re(2): Manifold

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:43:33 AM by Larry Harsin

The new manifold gaskets that you buy don't have that shield on them. I don't think you need them anymore. Larry

Oliver 70 Info

IP: 71.169.246.151 Posted on September 1, 2009 at 02:59:56 AM by Jerry

Hi Larry. I know you have never been asked this but I was wondering what the paint codes were for a 1940 70 model. Also, do you know of a place where I can purchase new rings for it. I have the motor apart and was wondering if the oil pump ever tends to go bad. I also have the tip toe wheels that I would like to remove and that shouldn't be a problem, but how hard is it to get them back on. I would like to narrow the wheelbase a bit so I could trailer it.

Re(1): Oliver 70 Info

IP: 75.105.50.60 Posted on September 11, 2009 at 05:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

All of the Martin Senour paint codes have disappeared from the paint dealers' lists. I don't have the new numbers. Check with Lyle Dumont at email: oliver@lisco.com or with Sherry Schaefer at website: www.oliverinformation.com. The color was a Hunter Green, but I don't know the number. Automotive supply houses or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 should have the rings for it. I havn't encountered problems with 70 oil pumps. I havn't worked with 70 Tip-Toes that much. I would think you could get them back on correctly. Larry

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