770 or 880

IP: 75.197.158.139 Posted on September 30, 2010 at 06:07:58 PM by Colt

I am scheduled to go look at a parts tractor, mainly for the motor. The man that owns it doesnt know if the tractor is a 770 or 880 and states that all emblems are gone. I was wondering if there was any way to identify the tractor, mainly by casting numbers on the block or any other way. Thanks for your help!

Re(1): 770 or 880

IP: 75.104.168.49 Posted on October 1, 2010 at 07:10:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The castings on the 880 - a lot of them have a K ahead of the part number. Such as the engine block would be a KA100E and 190320 on the left rear corner of the block above the starter. On a 770, the corresponding numbers would be MB100B or 185320. Larry

1800B Shift Rail

IP: 108.99.194.111 Posted on September 26, 2010 at 07:22:03 PM by Tom

BAD DAY. While Chopping corn stalks, 1800B Got stuck in unknown fwd gear. When shifting to where reverse should be, trans locked solid and would stall engine. Got the top cover off the trans and rt hand shifter rail is broke clean in half at the front notch. I got it back to neutral and it appears I can now use R1 or 4 (or R2 and 6) but any attempt to use 1,2,3, or 5 will put it back in locked condition. So, I read the manuals and want to be sure I understand what's in front of me. Tractor has hydrapower, so it must be split to get enough room to take the broken rail out the front of trans? Is that correct? How about the hydraulic unit? Manual says to remove it, but I'm not sure that really has to happen, as it's the right rail that's the issue. Do you think it can be repaired without removing the whole hydraulic unit and 3-point? What about PTO shaft - must that come out? I'm about sick over the loss of this tractor, I have no means to split a tractor this large and will have to hire it done. Any suggestions on finding a qualified Oliver mechanic or any estimate of the hours required to complete such a repair?

Re(1): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 06:59:06 AM by djm75

you don't spilt an oliver you pull the engine and hydrapower out the top just like a car. easy job with a cherry picker.

Re(2): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 75.104.182.9 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 07:33:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you are right at the first question. The way to work on this tractor is to remove the engine and hydra-power as a unit, as djm says. From the description of your problem, it sounds to me like you have more than just a broken shift rail. I'm thinking the cluster gears on the input shaft are your problem. This will mean removal of the hydraulic unit to repair this tractor. Also, removal of the PTO drive shaft is necessary before you remove the engine and hydra-power as a unit. I would use a chain hoist as that would take a big cherry picker. Larry

Re(3): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 70.9.25.36 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 05:43:31 PM by Tom

Thanks for the feedback. It's a little therapeutic to hear somebody more optimistic about the situation. So, you guys think I'd be ahead to pull off the sheet metal and gas tank, disconnect the wiring, radiator hoses,clutch and throttle linkage, etc and pull the motor? What else has to come off to do this? Can the Fan stay on? Alternator? Does the Grille have to be removed? What does the combined engine and hydrapower weigh - i.e. how large an A-frame crane would I need? Any thoughts on the cost or labor time involved to hire this done? I don't have a lot in this tractor at the present, but don't want to spend my way into having a very expensive 1800 either. I'm pretty sure the broken shift rail is the problem. It basically allowed the trans to shift into combinations of gears that normally are not permitted. With the cover off, I got the right rail back to the center position and things seem OK, I just don't dare try any of the gears on the left side of the pattern (those that involve the right shift rail). Ever heard of these rails breaking before?

Re(4): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 206.72.19.163 Posted on September 28, 2010 at 05:36:21 AM by djm75

I would say any A frame would work I use an automotive cherry picker all the time and it works fine. I remove the fan and the radiator just for safety as they are fragile and expensive its only 6 bolts. alternator and grill I leave on. i am only guessing it weighs about 1000#.

Re(5): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 75.104.168.49 Posted on September 28, 2010 at 07:40:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, pulling the motor is the way it is done. The fan has to come off so that you can remove the radiator. The grill does not have to be removed. The engine and the hydra-power together weigh approx. 1300 lbs. I would use a 1 ton chain hoist. Yes. I have heard of rails breaking before. I would say approx. 20 hrs. shop time. I'd recommend that you get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(6): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 198.208.251.21 Posted on September 29, 2010 at 07:42:18 AM by Tom

Thanks again for your replies. Any suggestions on where to get a replacement rail? I have access to a machine shop and could probably fashion a workable replacement, but the original looks to be flame or induction hardened in certain areas. I'm a little worried that a used replacement might have a crack started already, guess a magnaflux check would be a good idea. Do you know which models might be a suitable donor or if there is an "improved" part I should be looking for?

Re(7): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 75.104.168.49 Posted on October 1, 2010 at 07:16:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. These would be "used". For something new etc. call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(8): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 184.217.227.187 Posted on October 4, 2010 at 07:45:49 PM by Tom

WOW! Worthington has a location less than 10 miles from me, and their website shows a dozen or so 1800's! Thanks for the lead. Sad though to see Olivers being hacked up for parts. Guess it's like organ donation, some have to die so that others may live...................

Re(9): 1800B Shift Rail

IP: 198.208.251.21 Posted on October 7, 2010 at 02:28:13 PM by Tom

OK - Got a part lined up. Tom at O'brien was kind enough to answer some questions about pulling the motor. I asked about where to actually lift on the motor and he suggested that one of the head bolts would have a male stud on top where I can attach a lift ring. Did not give that much thought at the time, but when I went out to look it over, I slapped my own forehead - can't see the head bolts, just rocker cover, and those studs don't look at all like a good lift point. So, where do I grab this thing to lift it? Do I pull the rocker cover and then attach to a head bolt?

1855 diesel

IP: 24.2.184.27 Posted on September 26, 2010 at 08:47:31 AM by Jamie Butterfield

I have a few questions about our 1855. A few years back Dad put a rod through both sides of the block while mowing hay. When removing the engine, my manual says to remove the pto shaft. we can only get it to come out about a foot. We removed the top pto cover threaded in a 1\2 bolt and pulled. How do we get it to come put all the way?It seems like it should be more like our old super 77. It has about a 6ft shaft that comes all the way out very easily. Our 1855 has the 310 Waukashaw. We here this engine is notorious for throwing rods. We are thinking of repowering with a Cummins or Perkins. We are a small farm and need the 18 for tillage work. We need a new engine, do you have one? What would you do?

Re(1): 1855 diesel

IP: 75.104.182.9 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 07:27:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO shaft must come back further than a foot. Your problem is that there are 2 sets of splines that have to line up at the same time to have it come out. Push the shaft all the way back in, then turn the PTO output shaft a little, and try again to remove the shaft. You may have to do this several times to get it to line up right. The problem with the 310 engine is as you stated. I have worked with several over the years and have had good luck with them. Some improvements were made with connecting rod bushings and bolts. A Perkins or a Cummins are both good choices for re-power, but get to be quite involved and expensive. Many times more than the tractor is worth. I don't have an engine like you need. Larry

Re(2): 1855 diesel

IP: 98.125.121.14 Posted on October 12, 2010 at 03:12:24 PM by Matthew Jorgensen

Hi. I'm a big fan of Cummins and plan to someday repower an 1850 to use as a hot-farm puller....... You basically need a good running 5.9 cummins out of a dodge. Ideal would be a non-intercooled motor out of an 89-91 dodge diesel. Intercooled motors would work too, but the non-intercooled already have the intake plumbing all set and ready to go in your tractor. (The later 94-98 cummins with the big ol' P-Pump are great too, but not as fuel efficient as the earlier VE pumps.. The P-pump can draw as much as 50hp by itself when fueling hard.. But, if you want BIG HP then the the P-pump is the way to go.) Then, take the injector pump to a pump shop and have them rework the governor to be constant speed like a tractor should be. Finally, you need an SAE3 (I believe) Bellhousing for the cummins... These can be found online.. They are commonly found attaching allison AT545 transmissions to cummins engines in bluebird school busses as well as other big-truck applications. Then an SAE3 flywheel from cummins (won't be cheap, but may as well get a new flywheel) and such.... You WILL however need to get a different bellhousing for your Hydraulshift....... One from a 2-105 white will work.. Or an 1850 with perkins diesel.... I've researched quite a bit on this and look forward to the day I can throw it together..... I already have a 175hp cummins with a constant speed governed pump on it.. Just need to rebuild it and stick it in a tractor.

550 clutch problems

IP: 71.113.149.90 Posted on September 26, 2010 at 08:35:34 AM by ednillinois

I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing assembly and fork and i still have no clutch. it seems the bearing is not contacting the fingers on the pressure plate to release the clutch.straight from the box of parts ordered from korves. do i need to readjust the fingers from the box or should it just work?

Re(1): 550 clutch problems

IP: 75.104.182.9 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 07:21:02 AM by Larry Harsin

It should work, but there is an adjustment on the pedal linkage on the outside of the tractor. You should have about 1 1/2" of free travel on the pedal. Your Operator's Manual will be helpful here. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 550 clutch problems

IP: 208.103.155.165 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 09:23:12 PM by Larry from MD

You didn't loose one of the keys on the shaft?

Re(3): 550 clutch problems

IP: 71.113.177.51 Posted on September 28, 2010 at 02:55:15 PM by ednillinois

if you are talking about the washer that hold the fork to the shaft--- no it is in there. i have the book and the cd on my comp.. i did the adjustment on the clutch pedal both tighter than 1/2 inch and loser than one inch. it still wont release, i can idol it down and shift into gear back to neutral and in reverse without the clutch

Re(4): 550 clutch problems

IP: 75.104.168.49 Posted on October 1, 2010 at 07:24:48 AM by Larry Harsin

IF the clutch won't release, the hub that drives the PTO from the pressure plate, may be holding the clutch plate forward so it can't get away from the flywheel to release. If this is the case, you'll have to grind off some of the spline on the drive hub,so that the pressure plate can back away from the flywheel. Larry

77 Hydraulic pump

IP: 207.199.223.97 Posted on September 23, 2010 at 10:47:40 PM by Adam

I am in the process of restoring my grandpas 1950 77RC. It had a hydra lectric pump on it from the factory that went bad and a mechanical flip unit now covers the hole. I purchased a 1951 77RC parts tractor with a working hydra lectric unit. My question is the pump has tiny control valve stubs coming out each side of it controlled by a pair of vise grips. Is it possible to get factory type control levers for this unit or was this unit not intended for mechanical control? from what I have read so far I believe it is a type 2 unit

Re(1): 77 Hydraulic pump

IP: 75.104.169.85 Posted on September 24, 2010 at 06:49:45 AM by Larry Harsin

It might be possible to rework that unit to put levers on it. You may have a late type one unit and if so, it would be simpler to get the newer unit with the levers or even go to a series 3 unit. Larry

1855 mfwd

IP: 65.27.82.213 Posted on September 23, 2010 at 03:57:41 PM by Doug

I have an 1855 diesel mfwd that I am in the process of restoring. I was just wondering how many of these tractors where built and what the value of a tractor like this is.

Re(1): 1855 mfwd

IP: 75.104.169.85 Posted on September 24, 2010 at 06:47:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how many were made. You could check with the museum in Charles City 641-228-1099. I havn't seen any of them sell, so I can't say value. Value is condition. Larry

1655 inj. pump leak

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 10:53:57 AM by Gleaner

I see the injection pump on my 1655 has started to leak diesel. When I wipe it off and then run it, it appears to be coming out from around the throttle shaft. Must be a bad seal on the throttle shaft. Can that seal be replaced without removing the injection pump from the tractor or do I have to pull the pump?

Re(1): 1655 inj. pump leak

IP: 4.248.219.242 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 11:46:57 AM by Larry from MD

Yes there is a small oring on that shaft.

Re(2): 1655 inj. pump leak

IP: 75.104.169.85 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 10:10:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the pump and take it to a pump shop for repair. Larry

Re(3): 1655 inj. pump leak

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on September 23, 2010 at 01:40:12 PM by Gleanerguy

Thanks, I thought I would need to do that, just wondered if there was anyway to get around that.

Re(4): 1655 inj. pump leak

IP: 4.248.218.24 Posted on September 23, 2010 at 05:19:30 PM by Larry from MD

I have had the upper cap off several of them its not that bad a job.That is a low preasure part of pump.One thing that happens is the shaft breaks and i have replaced those. One problem is the shafts sometimes have 2 slots and only is used.Just keep things clean and be carefull.After its together just use your hand pump to push new clean fuel into the area you worked on.

1969 Model 1650

IP: 75.222.90.236 Posted on September 21, 2010 at 07:46:26 PM by randall english

how do i tighten / loosen the nut on the injection pump that's closest to the engine block. The outside two are no problem but i can't even see the one on the inside.

Re(1): 1969 Model 1650

IP: 75.104.169.85 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 10:08:41 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a special wrench that you have to get. It is curved like the letter C. You have to get it from Mac Tools or Snap-On. Larry

Super 88 starting

IP: 208.126.158.47 Posted on September 21, 2010 at 06:22:32 PM by Zach

Hi Larry, I need some help. Got a super 88 about two months ago and have been using it almost daily since then. The battery wasn't charging so I pulled off the generator, had it tested and put on a new regulator. While I had that apart I changed plugs, plug wires, distributer cap, rotor, points and condensor. I made sure to polorize the genny when I put it on and once everything was together it would not start at all. I have since put all the old parts back on except plug wires. Have also checked point gap and firing order probably a hundred times. I was not getting a very good spark so I changed the coil. Now getting spark on all 6 plugs and no fire. What could I have screwed up. Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Super 88 starting

IP: 70.187.11.243 Posted on September 21, 2010 at 10:26:21 PM by Larry K

Did you verify which position on the distributor is #1? I just worked on one where someone had rotated the distributor when they installed it many years earlier.

Re(2): Super 88 starting

IP: 141.129.1.98 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 08:54:00 AM by Zach

I did pull the number one spark plug out, put my thumb over the hole and had someone turn over the tractor till it blew my thumb off. I then checked the rotor position to make sure it was lined up with the right plug. It was pretty close as I could see. Is there a better way to check this? Does the firing order go clockwise when looking down at the cap? I changed the wires one at a time but the order seems to be in the oposite direction to what my shop manual says. Thanks again for the help. Zach

Re(3): Super 88 starting

IP: 75.104.169.85 Posted on September 22, 2010 at 10:06:49 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have #1 compression, then find where the #1 spark plug wire goes and then it is clockwise from there. Larry

White 2-85 Shifter problem

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 10:29:35 AM by Chris Chewning

I have a late 70Õs White 2-85 MFWD with a hydraul-shift transmission. When I bought the tractor it wouldnÕt go into reverse or shift between gears very easily. I took the cab off and removed the top cover and found that one of the lubrication lines that goes to the input shaft was cross threaded and had fallen out. I fixed it and put the cover back on and everything worked great. 6 months later I drove it and parked it and I am having trouble getting it into reverse again. It will go into position but when I let off the clutch it grinds and is not fully engaged. Sometimes I can push hard enough to catch the gear but I usually have to hold it to keep it in reverse. I was wondering if it is another lubrication problem because it seems odd that it would just stop engaging for no reason. It hasnÕt been abused or put under a lot of stress or anything. Your insight is greatly appreciated

Re(1): White 2-85 Shifter problem

IP: 4.248.217.241 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 11:28:06 AM by Larry from MD

Sounds like a bent shifter arm/fork this is common when when its hard to shift into a gear. People try to make it work by pulling or pushing harder. Often the thing will end up breaking and falling into the gears

Re(2): White 2-85 Shifter problem

IP: 75.104.169.238 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 08:31:30 PM by Larry Harsin

You are just going to have to dig back into it and see what is going on. Then, let me know what you find. Larry

Re(3): White 2-85 Shifter problem

IP: 64.32.255.210 Posted on September 27, 2010 at 08:50:20 AM by Chris Chewning

It was a loose shift fork. One of the bolts fell out completely and was laying in the pan. The other was so loose you could turn it with your hand. Tightened everything back up and put some locktite on it this time. everything works like a dream now

super99

IP: 68.76.147.137 Posted on September 19, 2010 at 02:59:25 PM by matt

I was wondering if you knew what grade oil to use in a 3-71 we have been using 15-40 but we heard we should be using 30 weight which is correct thanks.

Re(1): super99

IP: 75.104.169.238 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 08:42:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The tractor should be using a straight grade oil and not a real high detergent like most diesels. Your 30 weight is a straight grade oil. Your supplier should have the information. You should get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

1750 transmission

IP: 216.51.248.55 Posted on September 18, 2010 at 11:39:43 PM by Brian Blessington

I just bought a 1750 gas tractor. I noticed at idle there is a loud clunking noise (like a backlash sort of clunk) that disappears when I step on the clutch.It also disappears when I raise the engine speed above idle but is still noisy in general( minus the clunk) until I push in the clutch. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1750 transmission

IP: 75.104.169.238 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 08:24:26 AM by Larry Harsin

It is probably slack in the drive shaft coupling, which is a chain coupling on the front of the transmission. That's the way they are. Larry

Re(2): 1750 transmission

IP: 216.51.248.55 Posted on September 20, 2010 at 09:40:24 AM by Brian Blessington

Thanks Larry. I ordered a service and operators manual from the museum this morning. I will have a look at the coupler.

1939 Oliver paint codes

IP: 24.13.10.64 Posted on September 13, 2010 at 09:53:29 PM by John

Hi Larry, Do you have or know where I can find the correct paint color codes for a 39 Oliver 70? Looking for the green, red and yellow. Thanks!

Re(1): 1939 Oliver paint codes

IP: 75.104.183.126 Posted on September 14, 2010 at 08:10:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Lyle Dumont. Email: oliver@lisco.com Larry

3 pt

IP: 99.194.30.57 Posted on September 11, 2010 at 07:59:25 AM by lucas

will a power traction hicth from a 880 diesel fit on a super 88 diesel. If not what are the diffrences

Re(1): 3 pt

IP: 75.104.183.126 Posted on September 12, 2010 at 03:12:30 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It won't fit. There is no place on the bottom of the bull gear housing to hook the hitch onto. Larry

880 Diesel sending units

IP: 24.111.52.169 Posted on September 10, 2010 at 09:04:11 PM by Dave Wicks

I have an early (1958) 880 D and I cannot find any engine temp or oil pressure sending units. Guages and oil light system does not work. I suspect it has been removed and/or plugged. Can you tell me where the oil pressure and engine temp sending units should be located on the diesel engine?

Re(1): 880 Diesel sending units

IP: 75.104.183.126 Posted on September 11, 2010 at 07:31:03 AM by Larry Harsin

The oil pressure sending unit is located on the oil filter base. The temp sender is located on the left rear corner of the engine block, above the starter. If you don't have an AGCO dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224, and he will send you the senders. Larry

Re(2): 880 Diesel sending units

IP: 24.111.52.169 Posted on September 11, 2010 at 06:46:29 PM by Dave Wicks

Thanks for the reply. I have 1 more question. I noticed that there is a plug going into the engine on the left side near the front close to the thermostat housing and behind the diesel injector pump. I assume that the plug goes into the water jacket. I have a picture of the temp sending unit for the gas engine behind the starter. I was thinking the diesel was different. Can you advise what that plug is for? Thanks much!

Re(3): 880 Diesel sending units

IP: 75.104.183.126 Posted on September 11, 2010 at 09:52:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't really know what that plug might be for. It might just be an expansion plug in case of freezing or something like that. The diesel is a little different, but not much. Larry

1600

IP: 99.96.103.182 Posted on September 10, 2010 at 08:07:26 AM by Tom

Bought a 1600 and the battery was hooked up as negitive ground, I think it is suppose to be positive ground, do u think it caused damage? also gas tank has been empty and now is coated with rust, any ideas on how to clean this out?

Re(1): 1600

IP: 75.104.183.126 Posted on September 11, 2010 at 07:25:30 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor still has a generator, I would change it back to positive ground. But if the tractor has an alternator, I would leave it negative ground. If you have to start changing wires etc, consult the wiring diagram in your Operator's Manual. If you don't have an Operator's Manual,you can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. I would take the fuel tank off and take it to a car wash and clean it with hot water and soap. There are products available to coat rusty tanks after you get them cleaned. If there is a good salvage yard in your area, you might check if they have a good tank available. Larry

88 decal placement

IP: 64.250.217.244 Posted on September 8, 2010 at 08:15:03 PM by kevin

Where do the "KEEP SHIELDS IN PLACE" and the yellow decal about engine maintenance go? One of them I found in the middle top of the left fender, after stripping it down to bare metal. Thought I should find out before I already have them applied. Thanks for any help.

Re(1): 88 decal placement

IP: 75.104.182.104 Posted on September 9, 2010 at 07:26:14 AM by Larry Harsin

The Keep Shields in Place is usually put on the PTO shield or on the tool box. The yellow maintenance decal is on the fender where you found the old one or on the underside of the battery door. Larry

crawler

IP: 72.161.119.113 Posted on September 3, 2010 at 06:47:36 PM by Cory Chapman

As a project in FFA I wanted to restore an oliver crawler but I also have a galion pull type grader, so i was wandering which had more power, an oc-3 or an hg?

Re(1): crawler

IP: 75.104.168.31 Posted on September 4, 2010 at 07:11:10 AM by Larry Harsin

They are both about the same. They are the same size and same engine. The OC-3 was just an updated HG. Larry

1650 gas oliver1610 loader & 3 pt.

IP: 64.179.114.112 Posted on September 2, 2010 at 07:11:44 PM by stan e.

larry i just mounted a oliver 1610 loader on my 1650 gas & 3 pt. 3 pt. grader blade wont raise and lower like it did without the loader on. Sometimes it works after loader has been raised a little and re-lowered some any ideas thanks.

Re(1): 1650 gas oliver1610 loader & 3 pt.

IP: 75.104.168.31 Posted on September 3, 2010 at 06:53:52 AM by Larry Harsin

Look at your Operator's Manual and make sure everything is set up correctly. It should work. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099 Larry

Re(2): 1650 gas oliver1610 loader & 3 pt.

IP: 4.248.218.65 Posted on September 3, 2010 at 07:38:57 AM by Larry from MD

When mounting the loader did someone move the bypass valve on the hydrolic houseing, its the bolt sticking out by your right heal when sitting on the tractor. The oil goes to the 3 point last so recheck the oil leval.

Oliver 550 3 point hitch

IP: 24.247.9.243 Posted on September 1, 2010 at 02:21:32 PM by Tom

I have a 1968 oliver 550 and whenever I have and implement attached to the 3 point hitch it drops down about an inch and then raise and keeps repeating. I have tried to adjust the long nut under the seat and tried the top link in all three holes with no success. Also it does leak some Hydraulic fluid around the two top arms. Any info would be greatly appreciated Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver 550 3 point hitch

IP: 75.104.168.31 Posted on September 2, 2010 at 06:21:41 AM by Larry Harsin

This "cycling" is normal. However, if it gets to be too excessive,it probably needs a new O ring on the lift piston. But even with everything fine, it will do this. If you have leakage around the 2 top arms, first check the breather on the unit. If the breather is not plugged, you'll probably have to install new seals on the lift arms. The rock shaft does have bushings that can get worn enough that they have to be replaced also. Larry

3 pt. hitch

IP: 75.213.50.160 Posted on September 1, 2010 at 08:09:54 AM by Mike Welch

will a 770 three pt hitch fit and work on a super 77?

Re(1): 3 pt. hitch

IP: 75.104.168.31 Posted on September 2, 2010 at 06:16:29 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is a regular 3 Pt. it will. A power traction hitch from a 770 will not work on a 77. Larry

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