Oliver 1450

IP: 63.131.51.160 Posted on September 30, 2011 at 07:02:08 AM by John

My steering wheel won't turn to the left. I tore the top off of the gear box and so far have found that I need bearings. As I get deeper into it, I may find I need gears. Any advice on finding bearings or cross reference information or a good used box is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 1450

IP: 75.104.161.18 Posted on September 30, 2011 at 09:13:11 AM by Larry Harsin

That is a Fiat Oliver. Check with Rick's Ag Parts in Wooster OH 330-466-2164 or email: info@ricksagparts.com Or you can try this website: www.importtractorparts.net Larry

oliver 77 carb. adj.

IP: 173.85.179.228 Posted on September 29, 2011 at 06:51:52 PM by ron i overhauled carb., and the problem is engine throttle needs to be on fourth notch for idle also engine loppes when i advance throttle. any ideas? THANKS Re(1): oliver 77 carb. adj. IP: 75.104.161.18 Posted on September 30, 2011 at 09:08:56 AM by Larry Harsin You need to get your Operator's Manual and read the section about throttle and governor linkage adjustments. If you don't have a manual, you can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum 641-228-1099. Larry

1650 hydraulic problem

IP: 173.184.206.206 Posted on September 28, 2011 at 08:14:48 PM by Tom Miller

I have a 1650 that the 3 point works great but the front loader won't lift a bucket of snow not less a big bale of hay. The internal filter had been removed by prior owner which tells me he had problems also. I have tried adjusting the screw/bolt on the right side but it doesn't seem to change anything. Am I do for a pump or adjusting valve? If its pump time how big of job is it to change out and any recomendations on where to purchase would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic problem

IP: 75.104.168.174 Posted on September 29, 2011 at 06:51:49 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to check the pressure on the unit. Get a gauge and plug it in where the outlets are, to check it. It should develop 2000 lbs. of pressure. There are shims located on a relief valve, to the rear of the filter, on the right side. Putting in shims will raise the pressure. Don't exceed 2200 lbs. The complete hydraulic unit has to be removed from the tractor to replace the pump. Pumps are available from your AGCO Dealer or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. There is available the regular pump or an aftermarket pump. The aftermarkets are good quality pumps also. Larry

Super 88 Diesel Thermostat

IP: 70.41.38.15 Posted on September 26, 2011 at 11:11:24 PM by Ed Kost

Larry, we just overhauled my S88 diesel and found the thermostat was bad. I can't find the right sized thermostat for it. Can you tell me where I can find a thermostat for the large thermostat housing? Thanks!

Re(1): Super 88 Diesel Thermostat

IP: 75.105.44.215 Posted on September 27, 2011 at 06:45:36 PM by Larry Harsin

The regular thermostat( for an 88) from AGCO is 101400A. I have never see the large one on an 88. Call me 712-362-2966 Larry

1650 hydraulics

IP: 184.158.7.254 Posted on September 24, 2011 at 10:37:05 PM by Gerald

Hi Larry. I have 1650 gas w/loader. The bucket will not hold any weight (right side lever) I disconnected the hoses and it would hold then so I assume the problem is in the valve. Where should I start looking?

Re(1): 1650 hydraulics

IP: 75.105.51.125 Posted on September 25, 2011 at 02:07:44 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably have something wrong in the interlock. Try reversing the hoses on the outlet and see if that makes a difference. It could also be a thermal relief valve that is right there on the interlock also. This means removal of the top cover to repair. Larry

770 Brakes/Seal

IP: 74.69.112.221 Posted on September 23, 2011 at 12:17:29 PM by Justin

Larry, the brakes in my 770 gas tractor have never been very good. I've backed the manure spreader though the fence three times now this summer and decided it would probably take less time to fix the brakes than keep repairing fence. I pulled the covers on the brake assemblies and found everything was coated in oil/grease. I expect there is a seal around the shaft coming from the transmission that has failed? Is this seal replaceable from the outside or do I need to disassemble the transmission to replace it?

Re(1): 770 Brakes/Seal

IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on September 24, 2011 at 08:03:41 AM by Larry Harsin

:-) :-) :-) The brake housing can be removed to replace the seals. While you have them off, be sure that the mounting studs are not loose. You can get the seals from O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The part number is M1110. Larry

770 Gas Steering Box

IP: 74.69.112.221 Posted on September 23, 2011 at 12:11:25 PM by Justin

Larry, I have a 770 gas tractor, wide front end, manual steering. The steering has become progressively loose over time, and is now almost undriveable. All the play appears to be within the gearbox - all other components are fairly tight for the age of the tractor. Can the box be adjusted to tighten it up, or am I looking at a rebuild? Thanks.

Re(1): 770 Gas Steering Box

IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on September 24, 2011 at 07:59:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The gearbox can be tightened. The worm gear has an adjustment on the front of the gearbox. To access that, you will have to drop the front end out of the tractor. The sector is adjusted by an adjusting screw on top of the gearbox. Before you start, make sure the pitman arm is tight on the output shaft on the bottom of the gearbox. Larry

Old style 88 manifold

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on September 23, 2011 at 09:40:43 AM by jeremy

I have and old style 88 standard gas tractor. It needs both the intake and exhaust manifolds replace. This engine has the larger freeze plugs on it. Will it be the same manifold as any other gas 88? Just don't want to order the wrong ones. Thanks for your help

Re(1): old style 88 manifold

IP: 75.104.169.146 Posted on September 24, 2011 at 07:56:39 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is the same. Larry

1650 ring and pinion

IP: 96.228.126.68 Posted on September 22, 2011 at 08:32:18 PM by robert lapage

Larry it was the injector pump. Our mechanic said ita a plastic bushing that is cracked. thanks. My friend is looking for a ring and pinion for his 1650 oliver. Do you know where I would be able to find one? Thanks again

Re(1): 1650 ring and pinion

IP: 75.104.182.93 Posted on September 23, 2011 at 07:36:42 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Check with Korves Oliver 618-939-6681, Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5304, or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. I do have a complete high speed transmission - rear end assembly for a 1650. If you are interested, email me. harsinoliver@ilechsi.com Larry

testing Oliver 77 ignition coil

IP: 173.85.179.228 Posted on September 22, 2011 at 07:17:51 PM by ron

Dear Larry, How do I check my ignition coil on my Oliver 77 to make sure that that is what is preventing me from getting a spark, when I try to tun it over.

Re(1): testing Oliver 77 ignition coil

IP: 75.104.182.93 Posted on September 23, 2011 at 07:31:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Just try breaking the points by opening and closing them, That will tell you if the coil is working, Larry

Super 55 HC Bad Miss

IP: 74.5.133.102 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 06:15:44 PM by Rod

I have a super 55 that I have had for 5 years. It's never really run right, even after I rebuilt the carb. This summer, while plowing a garden, it developed a really bad miss. I changed out the plugs, rotor, points and set the timing. I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets, but none of that seemed to help. I am wondering if my carb should be replaced. I have tried adjusting the richness and idle speed and really get no change in the speed of the engine. As a matter of fact, with the throttle all the way in (as slow as it goes), the further I pull on the choke, the faster the engine gets until the choke hits about 2/3 of the way out (the engine is probably revving at 1500 RPM at that point). Also, the engine has very little torque when running like this. And finally, when I get the throttle and choke balanced to where it runs pretty smooth, it will run fine for 10 or 15 seconds, then I hear a miss for a few seconds, then it goes back to running smoothly again. Not to mention that it backfires probably every 60 seconds or so when not under load. Oh, and there is a bit of surging when running at idle speed. Should I think about a new carb? Or is there something else I should try?

Re(1): Super 55 HC Bad Miss

IP: 75.104.182.93 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 07:50:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if you need a new carb. Check that out. It could have a bad distributor cap or it could be a valve sticking or any number of things. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 HC Bad Miss

IP: 142.165.64.62 Posted on October 15, 2011 at 10:39:13 PM by harvey

Sounds like something I went through with my Super 55. Turned out the manifold(s) were warped so bad that the intake was leaking. Easy to test by spraying carb cleaner near the intake ports. New gaskets solved all the problems.

Super55 steering

IP: 99.102.230.219 Posted on September 19, 2011 at 10:42:40 PM by Bill Hummel

I've got a 1957 S55 with manual steering. It turns to the right fine but for left turns it requires a LOT of muscle. Any ideas on what's wrong? I've checked the I&T shop manual and I'm not sure of rebuilding the gearbox with all those ball bearings to mess with.Are there any aftermarket kits to simplify a rebuild? Thanks, Bill

Re(1): Super55 steering

IP: 75.104.182.93 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 07:54:03 AM by Larry Harsin

There are no after market procedures. You need to follow the instructions in the Shop Manual. You need to get in there and see what it needs. A lot of them have gotten water in there and frozen. You could check with Kent Gordon and see if he has a used one. 903-729-8349 Larry

Re(2): Super55 steering

IP: 69.72.27.20 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 12:04:43 PM by Larry from MD

A few years ago valu-bilt was offering a rebuilt and exchange unit.Check the bearing in the front spindle too,they can drag one way too.

Re(3): Super55 steering

IP: 99.191.117.250 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 07:40:36 PM by Larry K

I had to replace both the thrust bearings under the front spindles and bearings in the gear box. If Obrien County Implement does not have the gear box parts, I think the old Ford 8 N's and Jubilees used the same steering box.

Re(4): Super55 steering

IP: 96.228.116.115 Posted on September 20, 2011 at 08:08:44 PM by robert lapage

I just rebuilt mine. I went to my local ford dealer and he gave me white plastic type bearing. It is the bearing and race together. It works nice. You dont have to worry too much about freezing up. I think it is self lubricating. Good luck

Re(5): Super55 steering

IP: 142.165.64.62 Posted on October 15, 2011 at 10:44:05 PM by harvey

When I rebuilt my steering box I accidentally lost the ability to turn left and had to do it again. I also tapped for a drain plug, as well as a filler plug in accessable places. The factory method of the mounting bolt hole is too tricky.

Oliver 70 Carberetor

IP: 98.168.213.200 Posted on September 17, 2011 at 05:40:12 PM by Larry K

This 70 sat for a year and now it will start with full choke and then after a minute it shuts down as if it is running out of gas. It has a new carb kit and the carb was soaked in cleaner. All ports in carb seem to be open to air flow. What should I try next?

Re(1): Oliver 70 Carberetor

IP: 75.105.54.18 Posted on September 18, 2011 at 06:01:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Possibly it is dirty again. You might have to soak it again. There is a product called Stabil that you put in your fuel to help keep it from going bad. Check the flow of fuel to the carb. Larry

Fleetline 77 Clutch Spring

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on September 16, 2011 at 01:02:12 PM by Karl

Larry, I asked you once before about how to get the clutch pedal spring re-installed on a 77 Standard. You indicated "it can be done" but so far I have not been able to do it. I can get the forward end of the spring hooked into the clutch release lever inside the bell housing, but cannot figure out how to stretch it far enough to hook the other end through the eyelet on the forward side of the belt pulley housing. Since I have had this tractor, the spring has never been installed and I'm not finding any other parts that would fill the gap. Is there a tool or a technique I need to stretch the spring far enough to loop through the eyelet, or is there another part that I should be looking for to bridge the gap?

Re(1): Fleetline 77 Clutch Spring

IP: 75.105.54.18 Posted on September 18, 2011 at 05:58:44 PM by Larry Harsin

If you don't have enough strength in your hands, you might be able to find a small pair of vice grips to use. It is difficult to do and takes strong hands. Maybe someone could help you. You won't ruin it by stretching it that far. Larry

Re(2): Fleetline 77 Clutch Spring

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on September 26, 2011 at 04:29:35 PM by Karl

Power of positive thinking--once you confirmed it could be done, I got the spring stretched and hooked into place with minimal problems with the vice grips!

550 power steering

IP: 99.37.84.80 Posted on September 14, 2011 at 05:25:18 PM by Robert Kowalczyk

This may sound like a broken record but I've owned a 550 for about 15years and decided to put a loader on it and have been told that it would work better with p/s. Well the loader is going to be a winter project and just started researching the p/s question. Seems that the p/s gear assemblies are hard to find other that searching the web and tractor bone yards which could be an exhausting endeavor with no guarantee of even finding one. My oliver book shows the unit which looks simple enough. any reasonable suggestions. RK

Re(1): 550 power steering

IP: 75.104.168.188 Posted on September 15, 2011 at 07:47:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd contact Jackson Power Steering in Jetmore KS. 620-357-6546. Larry

1650 engine

IP: 163.153.134.15 Posted on September 13, 2011 at 10:28:11 AM by robert lapage

Oh boy Larry.Well last year we had a 1650 diesel engine overhauled. Then we needed to add an input sprocket and chain. We have about 70 hours on the engine and its seems to have lost all power. The oil pressue is up to about 40. It is smoking. No rattling noises, the fluids are up. Maybe the anti freeze is down a couple inches. What to look for!! Thanks...

Re(1): 1650 engine

IP: 75.104.168.188 Posted on September 15, 2011 at 07:45:50 AM by Larry Harsin

I believe I'd have the injection pump checked. Larry

1650 power beyond

IP: 67.142.179.22 Posted on September 10, 2011 at 09:33:56 PM by doug

I am trying to plumb up a loader into the power beyond ports. I threaded the 3/8" plug into the 1/2" plug on the inlet port. I used this port and the 3/4" port near the bottom of the hyd. housing for the hoses to the loader. Now the hydraulics on the tractor make a squawling noise all the time unless I move the loader. I understand this maybe caused by using a closed center valve on the loader. I dont know how to tell if it is or not. Also the 3 pt. doesnt work now. Dont know where to go from here.

Re(1): 1650 power beyond

IP: 75.104.168.62 Posted on September 11, 2011 at 12:43:47 PM by Larry Harsin

A closed center valve will not work on that tractor. If it is squawking, I'd say it has a closed center valve. You shouldn't be returning the oil to that 3/4 hole on the housing. The oil needs to return into the tractor from your valve just behind where the threaded plug is. That plug behind points toward the fender and that is where the oil should go back in. Larry

1800 Oliver Gas

IP: 12.180.94.224 Posted on September 10, 2011 at 08:18:35 PM by Chris Stutts

I am going to look at a oliver monday afternon 9/12/11. I dont know anything about olivers "JD man" but I was wanting a 80hp tractor and run across this one. All I know is its a Gas 1800 good rubber looks sharp wants 2200 for it. He said it runs but sputers. He thought water in gas, but someone told him carb needs adjusted. Just wondering if you could tell me what to look for. Are their any particular things I need to look at close? Thanks for your time.

Re(1): 1800 Oliver Gas

IP: 75.104.168.62 Posted on September 11, 2011 at 12:39:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The main thing to look for is just good condition. If it has good tires, and looks and runs good, $2200 is a bargain. The sputtering could be several things. It might need a tune up or something. I wouldn't think it would be too expensive. Oil leaks are usually a problem on older tractors. If it doesn't have any of those, that's a plus. Larry

Oliver 550 Oil Pressure Relief Valve

IP: 67.233.194.53 Posted on September 8, 2011 at 03:18:53 PM by Mike McIntosh

I have an Oliver 550 I just bought and fixed the oil pressure gauge and it read 10 psi cold & 4 psi warm. Went to check the oil pressure relief spring and plunger and found out that they are not there. I'm thinking this is bad and if so where can I find those parts ?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Oil Pressure Relief Valve

IP: 75.104.168.204 Posted on September 9, 2011 at 07:43:47 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get those parts from O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

550 water pump pulley

IP: 75.104.49.27 Posted on September 7, 2011 at 07:22:05 PM by Frank Godfrey

The water pump just went out on my 550 Oliver. My problem is I can't get the pulley off. I tried a puller and heat to no avail. My next guess is to find someone with a press. Am I going the right direction? Thanks

Re(1): 550 water pump pulley

IP: 75.104.168.37 Posted on September 8, 2011 at 07:29:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It takes a press to remove that pulley. Possibly an Implement dealership or an automotive machine shop. If you have an AGCO Dealer nearby, that would probably be the quickest. Larry

Re(2): 550 water pump pulley

IP: 146.126.61.241 Posted on September 8, 2011 at 08:39:40 AM by Frank Godfrey

Thanks. My neighbor owns a machine shop he should have a press. If not there are a couple more machine shops nearby.

oliver 600

IP: 174.69.207.35 Posted on September 7, 2011 at 02:58:47 PM by John Delahoussaye I have, what I think is a Oliver 600 Diesel Tractor. Specification # VAD 2107 Serial # 100621 D I am having a problem with the 3-point Lift. I took apart the Hydraulic control cover and found all in good shape, nothing disconnected or broken. but I am quickly getting past my pay scale and looking for help. First, I am looking for a really good O&M Manual. Where should I start

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