Oliver 550 PTO

IP: 66.30.164.121 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 11:32:05 AM by Ron

I am trying to locate a Pto assembly for an 1959 Oliver 550. Found one listed as fitting a 770 ? is it the same ? what are the differences ?

Re(1): Oliver 550 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.84 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 11:31:11 PM by Larry Harsin

A PTO from a 770 will not fit a 550. You need one from a S55 or a 550. They are made totally different. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Tim Smith at email: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

power steering?

IP: 66.226.104.222 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 09:27:15 PM by Mike B

can power steering be added to my oliver supper77? How hard would it be?

Re(1): power steering?

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 10:37:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Get a used Char-Lynn from a 77 through an 880, from a salvage yard. It will take you a day to put it on. I have mounting instructions that I can send to you if you need them. Email your address to me, if you want them. Larry

1650 hydra steering unit

IP: 206.114.53.130 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 08:59:27 PM by Alan Wernette

My 1650's hyda steering unit under the dash is really noisy and over the last few years the steering is getting hard to use unless I give it more rpms plus it is drifting more. This is getting dangerous since it has the high speed transmission and setback front. Is there a good place to either get it fixed or purchase a rebuilt or good used one? Did they built a better replacement unit and if so is this still available?

Re(1): 1650 hydra steering unit IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 10:34:04 PM by Larry Harsin

A good used one is a good way to go. You could put in a newer style. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 550 Gas Idle speed

IP: 12.10.17.68 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 04:21:36 PM by Larry Kruse

I put a new kit in the carb. and also new manifold gaskets. I cannot get a smooth idle below 1000 rpm. The throttle shaft shows some wear at the seal. It that enought to cause this type or problem? What else should I look for?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Gas Idle speed

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 10:24:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have done those things and it still won't idle, you could have bad intake valves or worn valve guides. I would reccommend that you take a fitting out of the intake manifold and get a vacuum gauge and check it as instructed in the Service Manual. I doubt if the problem is the wear on the throttle shaft. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 Gas Idle speed

IP: 70.187.30.152 Posted on October 12, 2006 at 08:10:27 PM by Larry Kruse

The compression is aroung 130 lbs. Would worn valves ruin the compression?

Re(3): Oliver 550 Gas Idle speed

IP: 67.2.249.180 Posted on October 12, 2006 at 09:28:28 PM by Larry Harsin

The compression sounds o.k. I don't know what the problem is. Larry

S55 front axle pipe plug

IP: 198.162.133.20 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 12:56:59 PM by Stu

There is a 3/8" pipe plug on the top of the hub of the front wheels. Its a plug in the manual. #11, page 9-3 I think. What is that for? Can it be a grease zirc to grease the bearings with pressure gun grease? Its a big fitting but one can be made to work with a reducer.

Re(1): S55 front axle pipe plug

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 10:18:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is for greasing the front wheel bearings. I remove the plug and stick the head of the grease gun in the hole and start pumping. Larry

1800 LPG

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 02:08:28 AM by j.

Howdy folks! Drug home an 1800 factory LPG with no serial # plate. Has 1963 mfg date on the tank (from Western Tank MFG in Lubbock) but I don't know where to find number to figure if a "B" or "C" production wise. Has a number stamped on side of block at front under alternator and usual casting numbers on block. It has tapered side "1800 Oliver" plate on side curtain, full oil steering and tilt wheel. My Larry Gay book does not address LPG hp. Were factory LPG higher compression than gas(like IHC)or same all the way through? Jerry

Re(1): 1800 LPG

IP: 67.2.249.45 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 07:00:32 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor has a tilt steering and full oil steering, it is a "C" series. It has 80 hp. I'm not sure about the compression, it could be a little higher than the gas, but both models carried pretty high compression. Larry

Re(2): 1800 LPG

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 09:32:24 AM by j.ulmer

Thanks chief. I will service out all fluids and filters and run a compression check on all cylinders to check for burnt or sticking valves. Would you have a left side sheet metal engine "curtain" panel"? Being it is a propane the cut on the tank could be hard to come by. Since I don't have it I don't know what it looks like and may have to try surgery on something else. What other sheet metal models would fit?ju

Re(3): 1800 LPG

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on October 10, 2006 at 10:16:22 PM by Larry Harsin

The side panels for the B and C series 1800 would be the same. I can take a picture of the 1800 B series LP, that I have and email it to you if that would help. Email me if you want this so that I have your email. Larry

Re(4): 1800 LPG

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 06:56:39 AM by Larry Harsin

I looked at my factory 1800 LP this morning. My tank sits lengthways of the tractor. I feel that your tractor must have a "field conversion", if the tank sits crossways. My side panel is the normal side panel for an 1800 gas. That may be why your panel is missing. Therefore, you may have to become a surgeon! Larry

Re(5): 1800 LPG

IP: 67.137.88.228 Posted on October 11, 2006 at 07:06:26 PM by Jeff Oliver I have a 1800 LPG C series and it is as Larry said also, the tank sits longwise on it and the side panels are the same as my B series diesel. They are about 80 hp but pull like other brands 90 hp tractors do. Mine has about 165-170 compression which a little higher than some of the gas tractors we have.

motors swap super77,88

IP: 66.226.104.222 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 08:38:00 PM by Mike B

can a supper 88 diesel engine fit in a supper 77 gas tractor

Re(1): motors swap super77,88

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 09:35:09 PM by Larry Harsin

It's been done, but it is tight!! You'll have a problem having room for an air cleaner, and you'll have to cut away some of the radiator shroud. You also won't have a big enough radiator for that engine, without getting something done. Larry

1850 PTO

IP: 70.41.98.181 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 07:58:25 PM by dan korn

Larry: Today I was chopping corn stachs with my 1850 and the PTO quit working and the hydraulics and power steering also stopped. There is a very bad grinding sound comming from down by the Hydra Power area. Do 1850's have a similiar hydraulic pump/PTO drive design as the 880's, in the fact that there is a hollow shaft on the outside which drives the transmision and a solid staff inside the hollow shaf which runs the hydraulic pump and PTO. If this is the case what are the chances that the solid shaft broke??? Is this common? Where would you suggest I start looking.

Re(1): 1850 PTO

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 09:32:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I suspect that the splines are gone off of either the drive shaft or the drive hub in the fly wheel. This is similar to the set-up in the 880, only it is built heavier. You'll have to remove the drive shaft from the tractor to determine what is wrong. The drive shaft can be removed by removing the little tin cover, then a snap ring, then a plug and "O" ring. Then you can remove the drive shaft from the tractor. Larry

Super 55 Steering

IP: 165.138.147.155 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 01:25:42 PM by Jeff

S55 steering is broke. Wheels not turning the same. I think there is a gear box that may have a problem. What does it take to fix? Where do I get the parts? Thanks...

Re(1): Super 55 Steering

IP: 67.2.242.6 Posted on October 9, 2006 at 09:25:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He keeps a rebuilt one on hand. Larry

power lift vs. hydraulics

IP: 216.135.28.214 Posted on October 7, 2006 at 03:41:01 PM by Andy

I have a good running 1951 gas 77 with power lift and a 1955 parts super 77 diesel tractor with hydraulics. Can I take off the power lift and replace with the hydraulic unit? If so what does this entail? Thanks!

Re(1): power lift vs. hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.88 Posted on October 7, 2006 at 08:52:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you can. You will also have to remove the hanger bearing for the PTO shaft on the 77. You will have to exchange the transmission input shafts. Larry

880 gas

IP: 216.129.184.239 Posted on October 6, 2006 at 10:05:13 PM by ray andre

removed rods from 880 gas and they were installed different.which side of engine does bearing tang go?also no front marks on pistons.

Re(1): 880 gas

IP: 67.2.242.21 Posted on October 6, 2006 at 10:36:44 PM by Larry Harsin

On 880's the rods are off-set. 1, 3 & 5, go one direction, and 2, 4 & 6, go the other direction. They won't fit the "wrong" way. Larry

Re(2): 880 gas IP: 4.249.204.68 Posted on October 7, 2006 at 12:48:45 PM by Larry from md

The offset is away from the nearest main bearing,correct?

Re(3): 880 gas

IP: 67.2.248.88 Posted on October 7, 2006 at 08:48:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is correct. Larry

1555 Power Steering

IP: 204.112.125.126 Posted on October 5, 2006 at 05:50:01 PM by Wes Hamm

Steering is lazy. Pressure gauge on the flow divider tests about 500psi. I've used up to 10 shims with only around 100psi gain. Relief valve spring is purple and aproximately 2 5/8inch long.

Re(1): 1555 Power Steering

IP: 67.2.249.112 Posted on October 5, 2006 at 07:03:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Check your pressure on the main hydraulic and see what you have there. If the pressure on that is 1800 or 1900 lbs, check the flow divider regulator spool. It might be sticking. Larry

1750

IP: 216.222.170.38 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 09:34:19 PM by savin sundstrom

Are the rocker arms from a 1650 the same as a 1750?

Re(1): 1750

IP: 67.2.242.115 Posted on October 5, 2006 at 05:36:26 AM by Larry Harsin

On a diesel engine, if it is a power cell type engine, it would be the same. But if it is direct injected, they may be different, I'm not sure. Larry

oliver 550 clutch problem

IP: 209.163.97.124 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 08:38:36 PM by Mike O'Brien

Hi, About 2 weeks ago, I started to notice a metallic screeching sound in the area of the clutch/transmission. At that time, I assumed that it was maybe a broken tooth on one of my gears. However, the sound would tend to go away after a second or two of forward motion, but come right back and stay loud under reversing. Yesterday, I was doing some light disk work and it stuck in 2nd gear and I lost all of my clutch pedal. Right now I am suspecting that the throwout/release bearing has failed. The tractor is currently in the barn, awaiting a split. I'm having trouble locating a throwout bearing for the 550, and wondering if I'm on the right track to even suspect the bearing. I also have a pesky trans fluid leak between the gearcase and the clutch area that I intend to fix while the tractor is split. Do you have any idea what seals I'd need to fix that or where I'd find them? Will I have to pull the pto clutch to replace that seal? And are there any other problematic seals I should replace while I have it split? Just really wanna know what I'm getting myself into before the split. I've done tons of transmission work, but it's been mostly limited to jeeps. I'm located in eastern virginia, not prime location for finding oliver parts, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): oliver 550 clutch problem

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 08:57:36 PM by Larry Harsin

You should split the tractor. While you have it split, you should replace all of the seals on the clutch shaft for the engine clutch, and also on the bottom shaft where the PTO clutch is located. There will be at least 4 seals that will have to be replaced. You will have to pull the PTO clutch. With it sticking in 2nd gear, I wonder about the transmission, but I would check out the other things first, because if the engine clutch is bad, it could cause it to stick also. Check with Maibach Tractor in Creston OH for parts. 800-808-9934. Larry

Re(2): oliver 550 clutch problem

IP: 209.163.97.190 Posted on October 5, 2006 at 06:30:11 PM by Mike O'Brien

I guess I should have said that it doesnt really stick in gear, but I just have no clutch function, and no clutch pedal. It feels like the linkage is disconnected almost, but there are no signs of that from the outside of the tractor. I was able to restart the tractor in 1st and finish the work I was doing and get it parked in the barn. I am now thinking either the fork or throwout bearing is the culprit. thanks.

Fleetline engines

IP: 4.252.204.158 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 04:41:43 PM by Robb Thomas

Are fleetline gas and diesel blocks the same? I have a good gas block and a cracked diesel engine and I would rather have a diesel. Thanks Robb

Re(1): Fleetline engines

IP: 67.2.248.247 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 08:46:17 PM by Larry Harsin

They are the same except for the very earliest production blocks. If it is the same year or newer than the diesel, it will work. Larry

Oliver fenders

IP: 67.40.93.158 Posted on October 3, 2006 at 09:35:23 AM by Roger

I have a 1946 RC 70. I need rear fenders. What other models will fit? thanks

Re(1): Oliver fenders

IP: 67.2.248.113 Posted on October 3, 2006 at 10:05:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Only the fenders off of a 70 will fit. Larry

Oil in coolant 1850 gas

IP: 166.214.173.47 Posted on October 2, 2006 at 07:44:12 PM by mbattles

I have oil in my coolant. I've heard of coolant in the oil, where should I look for the trouble? thanks

Re(1): Oil in coolant 1850 gas

IP: 67.2.248.113 Posted on October 3, 2006 at 10:02:42 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1850 gas will do that by forcing the oil out of the crankcase, up around the "O" rings on the cylinder sleeve liners. Larry

Oliver 550 model

IP: 207.144.138.62 Posted on October 2, 2006 at 05:32:07 PM by Russell Ph

I have bought an Oliver 550 gas without powersteering. 1 question is how can I make it powersteering? 2nd What size plow disk will it pull? Most of all how can I find out what year model it is? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 550 model

IP: 207.144.138.62 Posted on October 2, 2006 at 06:01:47 PM by Russell Ph

Went out to check on some numbers best I can tell the spec # is 35 - 0025 and the serial # is 6733 (6 or 0) - 5(maybe 1)9 :::67330-519 or 67336-519. Hard to see with most numbers rubbed almost off.

Re(2): Oliver 550 model

IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on October 2, 2006 at 06:55:25 PM by Larry Harsin

If the serial number begins with 67, it is a 1958. As a general rule, it is not feasible to put power steering on a 550. The only way would be to buy the parts off of a 550 that had power steering (from a salvage yard). You can talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. about it. 800-320-6224. It will handle a 3-14 mounted plow. In tough conditions, a 2-16 mounted plow would be more desirable. Larry

2655 oil pump

IP: 24.158.6.245 Posted on October 1, 2006 at 01:52:19 PM by matt

We have a 2655 with 585ci diesel and the oil pump went out. We hear there is a external one to replace it. Is that true and how would the tach work?

Re(1): 2655 oil pump

IP: 4.249.204.44 Posted on October 1, 2006 at 06:25:34 PM by Larry from md

Yes there is an external pump it bolts between the block and the hydraulic pump.The drive for the tac is eliminated so they sell you an electronic one that runs off the alternator. There are problems with the external pump also. If the pressure relief valve sticks(it works in unfiltered oil)you lose prime in the pump.The next time the engine is started you have NO oil pressure and engine will sieze if not shut down.

Re(2): 2655 oil pump

IP: 67.2.248.213 Posted on October 1, 2006 at 10:12:25 PM by Larry Harsin

That is true, there is an external pump. And what Larry from MD says, is true. If you want to use a tach with an external pump, it has to be operated by a sender on the generator. Larry

Fan belt 77

IP: 216.135.28.37 Posted on September 28, 2006 at 03:51:05 PM by Andy

I'm trying to replace the fan belt on a 77 gas. It seems I have the right belt compared to the old one but it sure is tight trying to get it back on. I have both top pulleys off and it's still too tight to get on. Any tip's? Thanks!

Re(1): Fan belt 77

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on September 28, 2006 at 10:28:22 PM by Larry Harsin

If it won't go, you better take it back and get a different one. They do fit tight, so that they have the correct range of adjustment. Larry

Re(2): Fan belt 77

IP: 216.46.212.86 Posted on October 4, 2006 at 08:53:29 AM by Randy

I might be a little late on this one,but did you loosen the bolts in the bottom pulley and turn it to widen it out? That is how you adjust the belt on the fleetlines.

Ignition switch 1550

IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on September 28, 2006 at 01:46:33 PM by Dave Drury

Larry, I just put a new alternator on my 1550 gas. It fixed my charging problem, but when I fired it up and turned the key off, it kept on running. I figure I need a new ignition switch. Is it just dumb luck that the switch gave out at that time, or did I do something to cause it when I changed the alternator. Nothing strange happened during the alternator installation. Where might I find a switch and about how much is it going to cost.

Re(1): Ignition switch 1550

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on September 28, 2006 at 10:26:14 PM by Larry Harsin

It kept running because of a backfeed from the alternator to the ignition coil. You'll have to put a diode or a resistor in the line between the alternator and the coil. Larry

Re(2): Ignition switch 1550

IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on October 8, 2006 at 08:47:15 PM by Dave Drury

Well I'll be switched! (or not) I'm glad I ran this by you, saved me the cost of an ignition switch. Thanks again, Larry, "You the Man".

1600/1650

IP: 71.55.64.170 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 07:49:44 PM by Keith Tyson

My neighbor has a 1600 with bad transmission issues. We were wondering if we could take the lift off the 1600, bolt it to a 1650 transmission & rearend housing then bolt that to the 1600 tub and motor.Will that work?

Re(1): 1600/1650

IP: 67.2.249.169 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 10:10:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe that that is doable. Larry

88 Diesel

IP: 63.135.142.163 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 06:03:05 PM by schimko

I got another question bout my 88 diesel. I was just at a local pull here and got to talkin to some guys and one of them said to put a quart of automatic transmission fluid in with a full tank of diesel and use it as i normally would. He said that it works great on cleanin out my injectors, lines, fuel cells etc... I figure its worth a shot but once again i would really appreciate a 2nd opinion. THanks

Re(1): 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.169 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 10:09:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is something that I have been told. It has been reccommended to me by people who work on pumps and injectors, so it must be o.k. Larry

Re(2): 88 Diesel

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 25, 2006 at 07:49:06 AM by J. Ulmer

We have done that, particularly on something that has sat idle for a good while (like a combine or cotton stripper) as well as old stuff we have bought. The ATF adds "lubricity" which helps stuff slide easier and detergent dispersal agents to prevent the valves from sticking in an automatic transmission facilitates good, smooth operation of the mechanical parts of the fuel system and move "sludge" buildups off surfaces and out of the fuel system. Any time we have "low sulfur" diesel fuel we add 1 gallon / 100 gallons to gain "lubricity". I havew a 1985 Ford F-250 6.9 (IHC) diesel with 325,000 miles on it which has never been rebuilt (motor) and the pump was only gone through once at 125,000 to repair and replace the fiber ring which was disentegrating with the improved style.

Calcium Cloride Disposal

IP: 67.162.85.137 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 08:33:04 AM by Andy Peffers

The previous owner put calcium chloride in the rear tires of my 1958 Oliver 880. I want to drain it and restore the rims. Where is the best place to dispose of this? Is it harmful to the grass? Maybe I should take it to a tire dealer and let them take care of the fluid.

Re(1): Calcium Cloride Disposal

IP: 67.2.249.169 Posted on September 23, 2006 at 10:06:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I take it to the tire dealer and have them pump it out. They put it in tanks and reuse it. It does kill grass. Larry

77 clutch adjustment

IP: 63.135.142.163 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 10:38:45 PM by schimko

Restoring a 51 77 gas. Got a new clutch plate new throwout bearing and new pilot bearing but no new pressure plate (it didnt look to be too worn). Put it all back together got it runnin push the clutch in and nothing. Was told over the phone by an old oliver mechanic to adjust the nut on the threaded rod, the one that the clutch pedal is on. He said to adjust it out. So i did i went as far back as i could go and still nuthin. Well i seen him the next day told him what i did and he said no that i should have adjusted toward the bell housing. Well we havnt tried it yet just thought i would get another opinion...

Re(1): 77 clutch adjustment

IP: 67.2.248.58 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 10:49:02 PM by Larry Harsin

He is giving you good advise but....on your old pressure plate, you should have checked the height of the fingers, as they tend to get low with age. In other words, the height is the distance from the hub of your clutch disk to the top of the finger. I try to have it be 1 1/8". You'll have to turn the nuts clockwise on the adjusting bolts to achieve this, and then restake them after you make the adjustment. If you can make it work with advise from your friend, that is fine. But, if you can't, you'll have to go back in there and do this. Larry

S-88 Diesel

IP: 66.174.92.162 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 07:49:21 PM by John

Larry, looking for some answers to these questions. I have been looking for a spec sheet but can not find what I am looking for, so I'll ask you. What was the factory HP of a 1958 oliver Gas S-88? and a 1958 S-88 Diesel? What was the size of the stock pistons in a S-88 diesel? and the compression? I have heard everything from 3 1/4 to 4 1/8 size of the pistons and heard up to 13 to 1 compression. I want to put bigger pistons in the S-88 diesel for more get up and go, how much larger can I go (safetly)and what would be the HP gain? Should I increase the compression to ?? Thanks for any help you can provide.

Re(1): S-88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.58 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 10:43:06 PM by Larry Harsin

The gas was 54 hp and the diesel was 55 hp. The pistons were 3 3/4" bore on both gas and diesel. The compression was 15.5 to 1. I don't go larger than the 3 3/4" bore on the diesel. The S88 gas is more suited to over bore and even stroking than the diesel. In the gas engine, you can go to 3 7/8" bore and also, it is possible to stroke the gas engine 1/4", by ofset grinding the crank throws and using Oliver 77 rods. I have not heard of this being done on the diesels, but I understand it works well on the gas. I've been told that you can get as high as 75 hp on the gas engine, without spending a lot of money, by over boring and stroking. I don't think you want to increase the compression. If the tractor is in good shape, it is high enough. Larry

Cold blooded 88

IP: 63.135.142.163 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 08:37:11 AM by schimko

what exactly makes a diesel so cold blooded? I just bought an 88 diesel it runs pretty good but you can run it for an hour, shut it off, and come back to it 5 minutes later and you will need ether to start it again. I was told the injection pump was gone through recently but i dont know if anything was done. Another question could i get an injection pump off an 1855 or 1755 diesel and use on my 88? I would probably need to do alot of head work if it were to work???

Re(1): Cold blooded 88

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 06:52:19 PM by J. Ulmer

Lots of people utilize ether incorrectly in administering too heavy a charge resulting in a more explosive detonation rather than merely ignigting the diesel spray. Short bursts sparringly sprayed while the motor is turning over spreads the ether through the incoming air load resulting in more even charging and ignition at the lowest possible (and least energy against pistons, rings, and headgaskets) while starting the combustion of the diesel. Residual heat building up then keeps igniting the consecutive subsequent firing of the cylinders. Damage from over charging and detonation can result in lower compression which is detrimental to enough compression (and compressive heat) to ignite the fuel charge. Misuse and subsequent damage necessitates more ether usage and at larger charges. Sort of like a doper with drugs, an older engine in not so good shape which started using ether while cold can devolve into requiring ether when warm in warm weather. I've owned several two-cycle detroit diesels which were "ether addicts" even in hot weather. I knew they were worn out, but once started they could get the job done. I used them only sporadically and could tolerate starting them on ether till I had the time/money/and/or energy to tear them down and fix them like they needed. Sometimes a defective pump could be the cause, but Detroits are direct injected off the cam and dont have injection pumps, so I knew they were tired. Larry will probably suggest trouble shooting with compression and leak down tests (covered in old archives of his) and can help you pinpoint your troubles. Good luck and hope I didn't bore you too much!! Jerry

Re(2): Cold blooded 88

IP: 67.2.248.58 Posted on September 21, 2006 at 10:32:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Hard starting can be as Jerry Ulmer says, low compression or inadequate injection pump pressure or poor atomization (bad injectors) or low cranking speed. So...correcting all of these problem is necessary to get your old engine to run like it was new. It is possible to refit your engine with the Roosa-Master system, such as the newer engines had. My suggestion, if you wish to do this, would be to buy the necessary parts from a 1600 or a 1650 at a salvage yard or a used parts place. In my area: Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

OC-46-3G firing on 1 cyl.

IP: 216.67.37.146 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 10:21:39 PM by Tom Wales

Hi, I'm about ready (I think) to buy a 56? crawler. I changed the plugs and they are getting spark. But only the front plug will fire. If I'm getting gas, and spark, why won't the other two fire off also? Thanks, I'm a carpentern not a mechanic.

Re(1): OC-46-3G firing on 1 cyl.

IP: 67.2.249.101 Posted on September 18, 2006 at 06:12:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Maybe the valves are sticking on the other 2 cylinders, so that you are not getting any compression. Remove the 2 rear spark plugs out and see if those 2 cylinders are making compression. Larry

770 power steering

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 08:06:27 PM by Gerald

Larry I have a spare 880 power steering unit, will it fit in a 770 that has manual steering in it now? I know that I have to mount a pump for it. Thanks

Re(1): 770 power steering

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 09:38:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. Larry

550 Carb and governor adjustment

IP: 70.187.30.152 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 07:41:45 PM by Larry Kruse

Thanks the for response to my earlier question. Now that I have read another manual, I have a question about Old verses New throttle - governor spring # IH309. My 550 had the light weight steel governor that was bad, and I had the old heavy cast unit. What is the coil count when you use the old heavy governor? The tech manual says: "When later shafts and weight are installed on older tractors, the Oliver No IH309 governor Sping Coil Cut-out shown in fig. 0362a should be removed from the governor spring. After removing the IH-309 reset the IKS 277 spring end to position shown in fig. 0362A. When this is done there should be 19 working coils between stops IKS 277 and IH 2789 What coil count should I use for the heavy governor?

Re(1): 550 Carb and governor adjustment

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 09:37:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use the 19 active coils. If it is necessary to get more rpms, you could go to 18. Larry

550 Carb adjustment

IP: 70.187.30.152 Posted on September 16, 2006 at 06:05:30 PM by Larry

Just got my 550 up and running. I cleaned the carberator and installed new low speed needle.. I cannot get it to idle at less than 700 RPM. If I set the throttle slower, it stalls. It starts again with a little choke. Today it has started to lope. I have the manaul and I am going to take off the air filter and check the setting of the governor. What else would you suggest?

Re(1): 550 Carb adjustment

IP: 67.2.249.207 Posted on September 16, 2006 at 07:23:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would start out with the load needle at a turn and a half open, the idle mixture adjustment at 3/4 of a turn open, and proceed from there. Larry

Re(2): 550 Carb adjustment

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on September 17, 2006 at 09:03:57 AM by J. Ulmer

I know this seems elementary, but if your hearing is not good around the noise of a running engine you could have a vacuum leak through a bad gasket or crack in a manifold dropping the pull through the carb at slow speeds. An old timer in the sixties showed me on a 6 cylinder irrigation engine (running on natural gas, but the principal is the same) by taking a can of B-12 and spraying in brief pulses around the carb base and connections to the head how the motor sped up when it sucked the additional "fuel" through the defect. Simple and easy and I've used this trick to locate and fix problems on poorly running gas engines several times on various pieces of equipment. Lots of Luck!!Jerry

Oliver 1650

IP: 206.123.195.241 Posted on September 13, 2006 at 10:07:16 PM by Cory Willbanks

Hello, this is my first time on your site and I love it. The question I have for you is on an Oliver Model 1650 Diesel it has 2 different sets of gears and something called hydra power on it. The guy wants 5 thound for it. It has new injectors, rebuilt injector pump plenty of power but smokes constantly. What I would like to know is what year it was manufactured if the smoking problem is fixable, can you still get parts for these and where and how much it will cost to rebuild the engine and is it worth $5000. Any and all help appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.248.41 Posted on September 14, 2006 at 10:41:37 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 1650's were built between 1964 and 1970. We need the serial number of your tractor, to tell you what year. The serial number is on a tag on the dash. If the engine needs to be overhauled, $5000 for the tractor, is pretty steep. A complete engine overhaul could be as much as the cost of the tractor ($5000). A 1650 diesel in excellent condition would bring $6250 in my area of the country. A 1650 diesel in need of an overhaul would be more realistic at approx. $3000. Parts availability is good. I would think if it had new injectors and the injector pump rebuilt, it must be something else other than the injection system making it smoke. Thus, we are back to a worn engine and that means a possible overhaul. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650

IP: 206.123.195.225 Posted on September 16, 2006 at 07:41:09 PM by Cory Willbanks

Alright thanks for all of the help I will see if I can get the guy to come down on his price

Oliver 1650

IP: 12.196.104.230 Posted on October 6, 2006 at 01:31:21 PM by rhonda foth

I am looking for a detailed breakdown of a power steering kit - 1650PS for an E50 Oliver or something like that. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.242.21 Posted on October 6, 2006 at 10:42:05 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Parts Manual for a 1650 from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Cockshutt 570 Super

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on September 12, 2006 at 10:08:33 PM by Jeremy

Can you tell me what the stock gear ratio is in this for Road Gear. Is it 17:1, 18:1 or where would be a good place to go to find that information?

Re(1): Cockshutt 570 Super

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on September 13, 2006 at 06:43:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I have no idea! Check with Tim Smith at email: smittytractor@aol.com or with Allen Adams at the ####shutt website: www.####shutt.com Larry

1555 standard

IP: 205.200.53.109 Posted on September 12, 2006 at 04:46:14 PM by Wes Hamm

Have you ever built a three point hitch for this series of tractor.My hydrolics are tied up for the FEL.If I build a TPH how would I get hydrolic supply for another cylinder.

Re(1): 1555 standard

IP: 67.2.248.141 Posted on September 12, 2006 at 09:50:17 PM by Larry Harsin

I have not attempted this. You could contact Saginaw County Tractor Parts and ask if they make a 3 pt. for this tractor. For the hydraulic supply for another cylinder, put a single spool, one way valve in the line with your other valves. Attach this to the 3 pt. hitch. Larry

1957 super 55 oil leak

IP: 66.236.228.11 Posted on September 12, 2006 at 12:13:30 PM by butch coulter

i have noticed a large oil leak it is coming from the middle of the tractor i check the motor oil its ok i thinks coming from the back half of the tractor now what should i do also how hard is to split the tractor thank you you have a great site i read it all the time

Re(1): 1957 super 55 oil leak

IP: 67.2.248.141 Posted on September 12, 2006 at 09:44:45 PM by Larry Harsin

This problem is not difficult to repair as you do a "Z" split to separate the 2 halves of the tractor. You should get a Service Manual for a S55, before attempting to do this. You can get one from Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. I believe you are correct in your diagnosis of the problem. You'll probably have to reseal the PTO clutch. I would also do the seal on the transmission input shaft, while I am in there. Glad you enjoy our website. Larry

880

IP: 205.237.169.201 Posted on September 11, 2006 at 03:43:21 PM by jason

hi I was wondering if you could tell me what the valve clearance on an 880 is suppose to be? thank you

Re(1): 880

IP: 67.2.249.67 Posted on September 11, 2006 at 07:12:13 PM by Larry Harsin

The valve clearance on an 880 is 10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust. Larry

1950T

IP: 72.23.83.223 Posted on September 8, 2006 at 05:22:50 PM by brian pa

I talked to you last year about rings spining on a new overhaul. I tore the whole engine out again and I am starting from scratch. I have checked crank end play, alignment of hydraul ring end gap. Here is my question, I could not find anything wrong so I wanted to start from the very begining and double check everything. I originally purchased a sleeve and piston kit and checked them against the old ones that came out. I found the old ones had a taller piston from center of piston pin to top of piston. Also the old ones had two 3/32 compression rings with no keystone ring the new ones have one 3/332 and a 1/8 keystone ring that goes on top. The it manual only says about the new piston design nothing about the ones I pulled out. Also my manual does not give a side clearance for the keystone ring only a max. for all which is.006 . The other question I have is, have you ever heard of anyone using total seal rings and if so how long do they last. If you are not familiar with them alot of race engines use them they have no gap they are like a slinky or a key chain. You have to split them and either turn them down on or work them around the piston down on. thank you for the replies.

Re(1): 1950T

IP: 67.2.249.213 Posted on September 8, 2006 at 09:00:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't encountered the difference in the pistons and rings that you talk about. I'm puzzled by the difference in the piston height of the pin in relationship to the top of the piston. I would double check to make sure you have the right pistons for that engine. I have not heard of anyone using the double seal rings, but that doesn't mean they won't work. I don't know. Larry

Re(2): 1950T

IP: 4.249.105.115 Posted on September 10, 2006 at 05:23:28 PM by Larry from md

The keystone rings are what was in my 1950t and that is what the books call for. Your old pistons should have markings on them that can be back crossed in the parts books to see what they were for. Clean one up real good check the top and under the skirt.

blue smoke

IP: 64.61.227.76 Posted on September 8, 2006 at 01:10:20 PM by dave

I have an 880 diesel have blue smoke all the time. Where should I look first

Re(1): blue smoke

IP: 67.2.249.213 Posted on September 8, 2006 at 08:52:33 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably have worn or broken piston rings. The engine will have to be taken apart. It is oil getting into the combustion chambers that is causing the blue smoke. Larry

1650 PTO

IP: 65.66.131.74 Posted on September 6, 2006 at 12:28:03 PM by GREGG

TRYING TO SPLIT A 1650 AND SWITCH REAR ENDS- HOW DO YOU PULL PTO SHAFT OUT OF THE REAR OF TRACTOR, IT IS A 1964 MODEL?? THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!! GREGG

Re(1): 1650 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.155 Posted on September 7, 2006 at 05:44:55 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the four 5/16" cap screws that hold the cover on the back of the PTO housing. Then, engage the PTO clutch and remove the snap ring that is hidden behind the 2 holes in the PTO drive drum. You may have to release the PTO, to turn the clutch, to find the ends of the snap ring, but after you get the snap ring out of it's groove, you'll want to engage the PTO before you pry the drive drum back off of the plates. Use a large screw driver on each side and pry the drive drum back. This will pull the PTO drive shaft out with it. Larry

oliver 1655 trans

IP: 66.175.194.88 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 07:45:02 AM by owen salz

I HAVE A 1655 WITH A POSIBLE BROKEN IN PUT SHAFT TO THE TRANS. SOME THING BROKE WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND LOCKED THE REAR END.NOW WHEN I LET THE CLUTCH OUT, THE INPUT SHAFT TURNS, AND MAKES A GRINDING NOISE?

Re(1): oliver 1655 trans

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 02:15:56 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a broken shift lever. You'll have to remove the lid on the transmission and see what happened. Larry

super 77

IP: 142.177.76.157 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 07:28:28 AM by Bill Wood

this tractor motor is seized it has not run for two years how do i go about getting it going thanks

Re(1): super 77

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 02:13:55 PM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the cylinder head and use some good penetrating oil on the cylinders that are stuck. If they don't free up in a few days, I would go ahead and disassemble the engine. Larry

2255 over/under

IP: 66.231.2.25 Posted on September 3, 2006 at 07:47:03 AM by Ralph Rasmussen

My problem started with the over/under leaking oil out onto the ground.I had a local repair shop work on the tractor, The motor came out to replace the seal on the over/under. they found the shaft that runs the pto and hydralic pump was wore bad. that was replaced as was the seal to the rear end. Brought the tractor home and in 2 hrs I had oil from the rear end leaking out onto the ground. The repair shop took tractor back and replaced the shaft again and new seal. They did not know why it started leaking. Got tractor home again and in 2-3 hrs it started leaking again. By this time I needed the tractor for field work. So kept checking the oil level in rear end and adding oil. Now the tractor has stopped leaking oil from rear end and I'am losing oil from the over/under into the rear end. And nothing is leaking onto the ground. I talked to the repair shop about it and they don't understand how it can be doing it. They will try again to fix it but if they don't know why how are they going to fix it. They have been good to work with but we need to know whats going on. Thanks for any advice.

Re(1): 2255 over/under

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 02:08:24 PM by Larry Harsin

The oil out of the rear seal on your hydraul and going into the transmission at the trunnion. You'll have to replace that seal. I have never done this. There may be a seal inside the hydraul, where the two shafts run together and possibly it is getting in there some way. Larry

Super 55

IP: 70.104.111.12 Posted on September 2, 2006 at 05:06:19 PM by Layne

Larry, my hydraulics have been weak since Ive owned my tractor, I have to open the throttle to raise a bush hog. Well tonight I hopped on the tractor, started it, and the bush hog lifted straight off the ground. its never done this, once warm the lift is weak again. Also my lift arms leak down pretty quick, within 1/2 hour with weight. Any Ideas? Thanks, Layne

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on September 4, 2006 at 02:03:22 PM by Larry Harsin Your pump is getting weak. If you flip the draft control lever into the other position, it will cause it to act that way. When you repair the pump, you should put a new "O" ring on your 3 pt. hitch lift piston. Larry

1555 power steering

IP: 205.200.60.35 Posted on September 1, 2006 at 09:39:46 PM by Wes Hamm

I have another question in regards to the power steering.This tractor is my chore tractor it has a 70 case loader.Replacing the spring in the flow devider got the power steering working,but its a little lazy. However its consistant, even with a 1400 pound bale on the fork.Are their any ajustments

Re(1): 1555 power steering

IP: 67.2.249.165 Posted on September 1, 2006 at 10:01:30 PM by Larry Harsin

You can put shims in the relief valve on the flow divider, to increase the pressure. When you get bales that big, you can't have the bale up in the air if you are sitting still. If you are moving, it will work, but that size of bale is at the top range of this tractor's capacity. Larry

88 OLIVER

IP: 12.168.122.170 Posted on September 1, 2006 at 01:10:04 PM by HARDEN PHIPPS

WILL A 1650 HEAD FIT AN 88 ROW CROP MOTOR? WILL IT GIVE IT MORE H.P AND IF SO APPROX. HOW MUCH? IS THE 1650 HEAD TALLER THAN AN 88 AND IF SO HOW MUCH?

Re(1): 88 OLIVER

IP: 67.2.249.165 Posted on September 1, 2006 at 09:56:15 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It won't fit right in. The water passages are different (more of them). I have never tried to make this work, but the water passages are what you'd have to deal with. Bolt patterns are similar and they use the same port pattern manifold. If it is possible to make it work, it would give more hp. How much? I don't know. You'd have to use 1650 pistons. You'd have to use a larger carb and manifold, like the 1650 uses. Larry

Oliver 550 Diesel

IP: 4.155.198.212 Posted on August 29, 2006 at 04:26:14 PM by Dan Hartman

I recently purchased an Oliver 550 diesel at an auction. I would like to change the transmission and rearend oil. The oil called for is 10w30 with an Oliver additive. Today I'm sure there are much better lubricants available. Do you have any suggestions?

Re(1): Oliver 550 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.139 Posted on August 30, 2006 at 05:45:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use 80/90 transmission oil. Larry

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