Ask The Oliver Mechanic Archives - April, 2000
Ask The Oliver Mechanic Archives - April, 2000
Super 55 power steering
Posted by greg R. on April 30, 2000 at 07:26:57: IP Address: 209.153.14.13
Hello, Larry,,, I have not started on my 770 yet,, busy spring,, may start next week.
Anyway a freind picked up this cute little Super 55 [ 1957] with a loader on it. It is a bit rough and needs some love and attention, and various repairs.It has power steering but it does not work, there is some fluid in the p.s. pump, but it is low. Looking at my I&T manual, it shows the steering unit up under the dash. but on his 55 on both sides there are 2 lines [ look like brake line fittings] just hanging out. We thought maybe they went to cylinders mounted from the front axle support arms to the steering arms on the front axle, but there are no cylinders, just mounting holes. Is the unit under the dash just a valve to direct the flow of oil to some cylinders, or is the under the dash unit,all self contained, or actually is the power assist unit? When Gerry bought this tractor, the guy he bought it from did not even know it had power steering,so I guess it hasn't worked for a long time, or he is dumber then are here
thanks greg.....
Re: Super 55 power steering
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 30, 2000 at 21:44:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: Super 55 power steering posted by greg R. on April 30, 2000 at 07:26:57:
Hi Greg! He might have had a later style 550 power steering put on it. That's what I suspicion. Then there would have been a cylinder on each side. This unit under the dash just directs the flow of oil to the cylinders. Larry
Re: Super 55 power steering
Posted by Greg R. on May 01, 2000 at 09:25:11: IP Address: 209.153.14.32
In Reply to: Re: Super 55 power steering posted by Larry Harsin on April 30, 2000 at 21:43:53:
ok,,, maybe the tractor originally never had p.s. and like you say it may have been a 550 unit installed later. The ps pump is "piggy-backed" onto the generator, but if has been pumping dry or almost dry for years, it may be "junk".
Then there is the starter/flywheel. There is a bad spot we were told on the flywheel, so each time you want to start it, you must take a pipe wrench and turn the crank , jus' a lil' bit, then it spins right over. Why would the flywheel stop on the bad spot EVERY time ? It can't be the starter, I am guessing, 'cause if it was,,, turning the crank should not make it work.
I told ya' this 55 needed some love and attention.
thanks
greg
Re: Super 55 power steering
Posted by Larry Harsin on May 01, 2000 at 20:21:59: IP Address: 209.163.7.40
In Reply to: Re: Super 55 power steering posted by Greg R. on May 01, 2000 at 09:25:11:
Hi Greg! If you look, you will find 2 spots where the starter engages the flywheel. On a 4 cylinder engine there are 2 spots where that engine stops invariably. And those spots are probably worn just enough so that the starter doesn't engage properly so when you move it just a little bit it starts. You will probably have to replace the flywheel ring gear. You are probably right, the power steering pump is probably junk. These are very, very hard to get repaired or replaced. You could put on a new style pump but that gets involved. This tractor could be a "money pit". Larry
Re: Super 55 power steering
Posted by Greg R. on May 01, 2000 at 22:21:33: IP Address: 209.153.14.15
In Reply to: Re: Super 55 power steering posted by Larry Harsin on May 01, 2000 at 20:21:59:
Hey thanks for the info,, I told Gerry to take the loader off, and sell it, and just try to "pretty-up" the tractor, then maybe a guy could live without the power steering. He brought it out to our Jaycee Hall, and we used it to move some downed trees and stuff, he just wanted to play with it for a while, it does run pretty good, when I get done with my 770 project, he may bring it out here to "Shadetrees-R-Us" , and we may fix all the easy stuff.
thanks again, we will keep you posted on our progress,,
greg
Traveling
Posted by Bill Pierson Allstar Farmer on April 28, 2000 at 20:09:22: IP Address: 63.14.92.72
Larry, Hi! We're down here at Rod's, checking out your website. Sure looks good! Talk to you later. Bill and Bette
Super 55?
Posted by Keith on April 28, 2000 at 13:37:26: IP Address: 63.81.237.28
Larry: Seems like I'm going to have a Question or so a week until I have changed out every part on this ole girl. This week I bent the left side tie rod. I have been able to find another. My problen is I took a ball joint spreader to seperate the ball joint from the pittman arm. No luck. Seems the ball joint collapsed or some thing. I have driven the spreader in until it can't go any farther. It did not budge the stud. Tried getting off the pittman arm and no luck there. Used a pry bar between the Transmission case and the stud and still no luck. What do you suggest?
Re: Super 55?
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 28, 2000 at 14:02:33: IP Address: 209.163.7.7
In Reply to: Super 55? posted by Keith on April 28, 2000 at 13:36:32:
Hi Keith, Take your torch and put some heat on the pitman arm right around where the bolt is tight. Then wedge a piece between the bolt and the housing and hit the arm with a hammer. Larry
Re: Super 55?
Posted by Keith on April 29, 2000 at 15:46:26: IP Address: 63.81.237.94
In Reply to: Re: Super 55? posted by Larry Harsin on April 28, 2000 at 14:02:33:
Larry: Came loose on the second WACK. Thanks again. Keith
Prices and location
Posted by Pete in Ks. on April 28, 2000 at 07:10:07: IP Address: 12.13.248.3
Larry great site! Would like to know location and prices of tractors you have for sale. Thanks
Re: Prices and location
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 29, 2000 at 05:42:33: IP Address: 209.163.7.30
In Reply to: Prices and location posted by Pete in Ks. on April 28, 2000 at 07:10:07:
Hi Pete! We are located in NW Iowa approx. 90 miles east of Sioux Falls SD. Our tractors are competetively priced. Email us about the ones in which you are interested. Larry
GG General Ser no.
Posted by larry wolfe on April 26, 2000 at 18:57:19: IP Address: 207.226.216.69
I have an oliver/cleatrac production guide it lists the last GG general serial number as 1fa6886. all other sources list it as 1fa6532 a differance of 354. Did oliver (or the printer) make a mistake or something else happen? The people at the avery website don't seem to care.
Re: GG General Ser no.
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 20:18:25: IP Address: 209.163.7.21
In Reply to: GG General Ser no. posted by larry wolfe on April 26, 2000 at 18:57:19:
Hi Larry! I don't know. Call Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata, PA 717-738-2573. He is an authority on Cletrac's. Larry
Re: GG General Ser no.
Posted by larry wolfe on April 28, 2000 at 10:57:07: IP Address: 207.226.216.117
In Reply to: Re: GG General Ser no. posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 20:18:25:
I didn't realize they dealt with wheel tractors too. I checked klines ser.numbers and they have what I have. So AVERY and the other sites are differant.
What will fit an1800
Posted by Don Gustafson on April 26, 2000 at 14:29:33: IP Address: 204.60.39.76
I have an Oliver 1800 Industrial tractor with no engine. I would like to put something in it with good power. I perfer a diesel. What can I do and where would I find an engine. Thanks Don
Re: What will fit an1800
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 20:10:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.21
In Reply to: What will fit an1800 posted by Don Gustafson on April 26, 2000 at 14:29:33:
Don, You have several choices. You can put in an 880D or a 1650D or an 1800D. I don't know who has an engine right at the present time. My choice would be the 1800B or the 1800C (both diesel) engine. Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. might have an idea. 1-800-320-6224 Larry
Splittin tractor
Posted by Steve on April 25, 2000 at 18:55:39: IP Address: 209.222.116.14
Larry,
Finaly stopped rainin long enough to get to fixin the couplin sleeve we talked about before. Havent really torn into it yet, just surveyin the situation before i get into too much trouble. If i do need to split the tractor , u got any other hints. As far as i can see there is 6 bolts , but the bolts have a head like a torx bit. I was first tryin to size it with a wrench till i discovered this, and a 3/4 fits loose and a 5/8 wont go. As far as i can see its pretty hard to get any wrench or socket of any type on there (no room). Any suggestions , other than hopefully i can fix it from the inside of transmision instead of splittin?
Thanks,
steve
Re: Splittin tractor
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 05:54:48: IP Address: 209.163.7.20
In Reply to: Splittin tractor posted by Steve on April 25, 2000 at 18:55:39:
Steve, If you have to split the tractor, try the 11/16 socket. If that won't work, you'll have to go to Snap-On, or Mac or even your White dealer and get a special socket just for that job. Larry
Re: Splittin tractor
Posted by don on April 25, 2000 at 21:44:22: IP Address: 205.188.199.54
In Reply to: Splittin tractor posted by Steve on April 25, 2000 at 18:55:39:
those bolts are probly 11/16
1955 diesel for sale
Posted by Larry Weber on April 25, 2000 at 09:56:50: IP Address: 209.207.13.244
Larry, would you be in the market for a 1955 diesel? The tractor runs good. Had new pistons,rings, mains and rod bearings about 300 hrs ago. Currently running without turbo fins. Tires about 60% rear,new front. Has cab. has power shift. Paint is fair. All metal good. I'm asking $4000 or best offer.
Re: 1955 diesel for sale
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 25, 2000 at 12:34:53: IP Address: 209.163.7.44
In Reply to: 1955 diesel for sale posted by Larry Weber on April 25, 2000 at 09:56:50:
Hi Larry! I don't think I'm interested in the 1955 at this time. Larry
Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems
Posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 24, 2000 at 20:20:54: IP Address: 205.188.199.145
Dear Larry:
A while I asked you about two relays for my Oliver 77 hydra-lectric. You suggested that I convert it to a 12 volt system and use 12 volt relays. I took your suggestion, however my hydra-lecric is still not working properly. It does not work off of the switch, but will work manually but then blows the fuse. How or where can I get the wiring diagram for the system, it is a 1952 Oliver 77, with a 3-pt. hitch? Further, do you think it could be a short from a bad solenoid?
We are stumped, really need help as soon as possible as trying to use the tractor for field work.
Thank you for your time and cooperation!!!
P.S. HOPE YOU HAD A NICE EASTER!!!
Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 25, 2000 at 06:08:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.27
In Reply to: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 24, 2000 at 20:20:54:
Hi Marlo! There are all sorts of possibilities. It might be 2 wires touching or it might be in the cylinders themselves. Disconnect the cords to the cylinders and try running it on the manual side of the electric system and see if that makes any difference. I will send the diagrams to you. I either need your address or if you have access to a fax machine, I could fax them to you. You can send this to my email. Yes, we had a great Easter. Larry
Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems
Posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 25, 2000 at 20:45:32: IP Address: 205.188.192.42
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems posted by Larry Harsin on April 25, 2000 at 06:08:02:
Dear Larry: Thank you for your quick response, I will try your suggestions. I have a computer fax, I need my PC on to receive, I will leave it on tomorrow while I am out, the number is 219) 251-9164. if you cannot fax it tomorrow, let me know when you can and I will be sure to have my PC on to receive. Also, what kind of resister should I get for my lights, can I buy it at an auto parts store (due to the 12 volt conversion), further if it is the solenoid(s), do u know where these can be purchased?
Thank you for your help, I truly appreciate it!!!
Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 21:30:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.33
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 25, 2000 at 20:45:32:
Hi Marlo, We are having difficulty sending the fax. We receive a constant busy signal and it won't send. Possibly something isn't right at your end? We will try again in the morning. Larry
Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 26, 2000 at 06:12:34: IP Address: 209.163.7.12
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-lectric problems posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 25, 2000 at 20:45:32:
Hi Marlo! You should be getting the fax right away. For the resisters, tell them at your parts store what you are doing and they will have what you need for the lights. About the solenoids, you will have to have "new old stock" Oliver parts. Your White dealer may still have them or you can try O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Ask for Tom. He will UPS them to you right away if he has them. Larry
OC-6 engine made funny noise.
Posted by Brandon Howell on April 24, 2000 at 12:44:33: IP Address: 205.188.200.156
I had my OC-6 out the other day had it up to full rpm. It made a funny caclunk noise. As soon as i heard it i shut the engine off. I thought it was the fan belt but it wasn't. I stared it back up and now it burns oil like crazy. I still have oil pressure though. Oh by the way i fixed the water in the oil. the oil pan was loose lettng mosture into the engine. Any ideas? i think i am going to need some good ones.
Re: OC-6 engine made funny noise.
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 24, 2000 at 20:05:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.32
In Reply to: OC-6 engine made funny noise. posted by Brandon Howell on April 24, 2000 at 12:44:33:
This has all kinds of possibilities. I think you are going to have to tear it down and see what happened. I have plenty of parts.
Larry
770 low range slips out
Posted by wayne on April 22, 2000 at 13:11:48: IP Address: 205.188.192.173
Larry our 770 will slip out of low range when it goes down a slop but not uphill or when it is steady pulling. Then we either shift to high and it grabs and goes or push the clutch in and then it will ingage. We took it apart took clutch out and housing off the front side of the transmission. The last gear on the shaft that goes into the trans. has a gizmo inside it that looks like a watch band, this somehow turns the shaft one way and free spins when it is in the other range, could this be bad and slip causing our problem. thanks for any help;
Re: 770 low range slips out
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 22, 2000 at 17:22:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.46
In Reply to: 770 low range slips out posted by wayne on April 22, 2000 at 13:11:48:
Hi Wayne! That "watchband gizmo" is the sprague clutch and that is the problem!! That one piece is quite expensive but you will have to replace it. In some instances you can convert to a standard transmission but it will cost about the same and you'll have just 6 speeds.
Larry
770 cam timing
Posted by eric on April 19, 2000 at 22:03:46: IP Address: 216.183.140.3
i got a oliver 77 with a 770 engine in it, use it for stock antique, tractor pulling. was wondering if there is any gains to be had by degreeing the camshaft and the crankshaft different from factory specs, and whether changing valve adjustment wider or narrower can help also.thanks
Re: 770 cam timing
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 20, 2000 at 05:31:55: IP Address: 209.163.7.37
In Reply to: 770 cam timing posted by eric on April 19, 2000 at 22:03:46:
Hi Eric! I'm not into tractor pulling and I don't know. Larry
1550 ign. timing
Posted by Dan F. on April 19, 2000 at 20:29:17: IP Address: 208.30.88.137
My tractor was backfiring and was slow to accelerate. Thought I would check the timing. When I pulled the cover the marks were not clear. Is there just one mark for TDC or is there another for 22 degrees. the mark I found had TD which was all I could make out.I reset it using it as TDC and it runs great. Thanks for any info.
Re: 1550 ign. timing
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 20, 2000 at 05:29:12: IP Address: 209.163.7.37
In Reply to: 1550 ign. timing posted by Dan F. on April 19, 2000 at 20:29:17:
Hi Dan! It sounds like you are pretty close. When it's running full throttle it should be about 22 degrees with the vacuum line disconnected. At idle with the vacuum disconnected it should be dead center. Larry
Diesel 12 Volt vrs Dual 6 Volt Series
Posted by Richard Skinner on April 19, 2000 at 04:48:24: IP Address: 63.66.139.83
Larry, according to my book, my old 1650-D had dual 6 volt batteries which run in series. I'm sure this was done to increase cranking power. Someone has removed the 2nd battery box and the tractor is running a single 12 volt battery. I really don't suspect a problem here if the battery cranking amps are up to snuff. The book also states the min. cranking speed should be 150 rpm which I'm well below, I'm at 80-100 cranking rpm. If I use the manifold heater, she drops considerably. I'm sure the battery is slightly weak, or is rated below the recommended specs. Which cranking amp battery would you recommend?
Re: Diesel 12 Volt vrs Dual 6 Volt Series
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 19, 2000 at 05:05:36: IP Address: 209.163.7.46
In Reply to: Diesel 12 Volt vrs Dual 6 Volt Series posted by Richard Skinner on April 19, 2000 at 04:48:24:
Hi Richard! This tractor needs all the cranking power it can get. Get the largest battery you can and check the starter to make sure it's up to specs. This should help you get your RPM's up. Larry
Super 55 3pt hitch trouble...
Posted by Michelle on April 18, 2000 at 21:25:32: IP Address: 64.38.0.225
Hi Larry...I was referred to your sight for help! I don't know if you are the same Larry that responded to my post in YTM..if you are, I am sorry to go into this whole thing again..but if you are not the same Larry, I would love to hear your suggestion to our problem.
I bought my husband a Super 55 last year for his birthday. It runs like a charm, except for a problem he is having with his 3 pt hitch. He recently bought a post hole digger and after he dug a few holes with it and tried to lift it out of the hole, it started to bounce (the augar). It sort of jumps like a jack hammer. He said it happens even when the PTO is not engaged. If he lowers it to the ground and the pressure is taken off, then it stops bouncing. Any suggestions???
Unfortunately, I didn't get a manual with the tractor. Can you please tell me where I can purchase one for him (Father's Day present). He is so proud of his "Olie" and I want to make sure he irons out all the bells and whistles!!
Someone suggested that it could be the "draft control". (this might have been you..but I am not sure). Unfortunately, we don't even know what or where the "draft control is located!! Someone else suggested that he adjusts the "plow sensor"..again... don't know where that is either (now you see why we need the manual). My husband is very mechanically inclined..but even he knows when he gets over his head on things (except when he tried to fix the kitchen sink..but that's another story all together!).
Thanks for your time and again, if you already did reply to me on the other message board, I am sorry for the repeat!
Have a good night,
Michelle
Re: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble...
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 22:41:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.30
In Reply to: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble... posted by Michelle on April 18, 2000 at 21:25:32:
Hi Michelle! I am not the same Larry who answered you on YTB. You can get a manual from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net This is the first thing you should do. Read the question and answer just before yours on my message board. Larry Harsin
Re: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble...
Posted by Michelle on April 19, 2000 at 05:42:24: IP Address: 64.38.0.106
In Reply to: Re: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble... posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 22:41:35:
Hi Larry, thanks for the manual info and the "draft control" answer. (I wish I could have been more to the point like Pete was!..it sounds like the exact problem. I told my husband your advice and he wanted me to ask you "when I locate where the lock out screw is, or is supposed to be, if there isn't one, would putting one in automatically "lock it out"? Also, is it located in the same area on his Super 55 as you referred Pete to on his 550?
One more question, when I order him the manual (since it is a surprse I don't want to ask him this question) do I order the Operator's manual, the parts manual AND the service manual or will one of them be sufficient, and if so, which one/or one's do you suggest?
Thanks Larry,
Michelle
Re: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble...
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 20, 2000 at 05:46:55: IP Address: 209.163.7.39
In Reply to: Re: Super 55 3pt hitch trouble... posted by Michelle on April 19, 2000 at 05:42:24:
Hi Michelle! I would suggest you get an Operator's Manual. This will probably tell you what you need to know. The Service Manual will be more expensive as it covers several tractors. About your problem, the earlier S55 had a small lever on the right side of the unit. It had a position control or draft control setting. (When digging postholes it should be on position control.) The later S55 and the 550 had this bolt or screw behind the seat to lock out the draft. Larry
550 3pt problem
Posted by Pete on April 18, 2000 at 07:44:41: IP Address: 12.13.248.4
Larry, I have a 550 first year model. The 3pt works fine with box blade and 6' rotary mower but posthole auger will bounce violently up and down the moment pressure is applied to lift it. Can you shed some light on this as to what is needed to repair?
Thanks
Pete
Re: 550 3pt problem
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 12:09:27: IP Address: 209.163.7.23
In Reply to: 550 3pt problem posted by Pete on April 18, 2000 at 07:44:41:
Hi Pete! The draft control is causing the problem. There is a lock-out screw behind the seat in the area of the center link hookup. Look in your Operator's Manual. This screw will keep the draft control from sending messages: it will lock it out. Larry
1850 transmisssion
Posted by Tim on April 17, 2000 at 20:35:49: IP Address: 208.247.254.120
I have a 1850 that has siezed 1st/3rd gear to the sleeve it rides on. The transmisssion carries about 11 psi of transmission lube pressure.I have it torn apart. And I have a new gear and sleeve.Is there anything I can do before putting it back together to prevent it from happening again. This tractor has done this three times in the last 23 years.Is it common to have trouble?
Re: 1850 transmisssion
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 06:07:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: 1850 transmisssion posted by Tim on April 17, 2000 at 20:35:49:
Hi Tim! That is not a common problem. You should make sure transmission lube system is working properly. Make sure you use a GL5 transmission grease and I would add a gallon extra. (It will be above the test plug). Check for blockage in the routing of the oil to that sleeve. Larry
1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by Don on April 17, 2000 at 20:29:23: IP Address: 152.163.207.206
Hi Larry,
Our 1755 diesl has a pump leak right below the radiator. We had it in the shop last year for that problem but it started back up again about 2 or 3 hours later. Also, when it was in, they said it needed new injectors and possibly a pump rebuild because it is so hard to start and when i changed it's oil it smelled like it had some fuel mixed in with it. Any thoughts on that? Thanx in advance
Don
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 05:59:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.10
In Reply to: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by Don on April 17, 2000 at 20:29:23:
Hi Don! What they told you sounds logical to me. The fuel in the oil goes with pump and injector problems. Larry
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by Don on April 18, 2000 at 21:18:37: IP Address: 152.163.195.201
In Reply to: Re: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by Larry Harsin on April 18, 2000 at 05:59:09:
What would you suggest about the hydraulic leak? We had it fixed before and it never really stopped, only slowed down for a while. we tried tightening the two bolts that hold on the plate but it felt almost like one of the holes was stripped.
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 20, 2000 at 05:50:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.39
In Reply to: Re: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by Don on April 18,
2000 at 21:18:37: Hi Don! I don't really understand where your hydraulic leak is. If you have stripped threads, you need to fix that first. Larry
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by don on April 20, 2000 at 06:55:15: IP Address: 205.188.200.32
In Reply to: Re: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by Larry Harsin on April 20, 2000 at 05:50:57:
the leak is coming from a plate right underneath the radiator
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 21, 2000 at 04:55:55: IP Address: 209.163.7.35
In Reply to: Re: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by don on April 20, 2000 at 06:55:15:
Hi Don! That plate I am assuming has to be part of the power steering cylinder. This is NOT a common problem. There's an O ring at that point that is causing your problem. That cast iron lid on the steering cylinder has to be removed and a new O ring installed. Be sure there are no flaws in the ceiling surface on the lid or in the cylinder. Larry
Re: 1755 hydraulic leak????
Posted by don on April 21, 2000 at 19:24:23: IP Address: 205.188.199.184
In Reply to: Re: 1755 hydraulic leak???? posted by Larry Harsin on April 21, 2000 at 04:55:55:
thanx
oliver for sale
Posted by Brad on April 17, 2000 at 18:51:11: IP Address: 152.163.201.199
oliver for sale central Florida
283-D Head Gasket leakage
Posted by Richard Skinner on April 16, 2000 at 07:25:57: IP Address: 63.66.139.86
Hello Larry, a few quick questions. When I fire my 1650D up cold and rev the throttle up to around 1500 rpm or more, I hear a slight whine (Sounds like a turbo). When she warms up it goes away. To me, it sounds like the hydraulic system maybe bypassing until the fluid gets warm. Could that be the case? Is this normal? Hyd. system functions fine.
Next, I see what appears to be diesel seeping between the cyl head and the block on the right hand side of the engine (energy cell side). It bubbles slightly and cause a bit of a mess. I can see where it looks like someone smeared some epoxy or sealer over the side of the gasket as if it would really fix it. I'm going to pull the head in a few days, inspect everything, do a valve job and reseal it if the liners and all are okay. I heard a few people say that there is a common problem with heads leaking on the Waukesha engines, is this true? Does the 283 have this problem and can something be done about it while I'm tore down?
This may contribute to the hard starting problem. Any idea where and how much an compression tester adapter is for this old beast? I thought about going to my local fuel injection shop and getting an old Pintle type injector body and modify it to work.....
Thanks,
Richard
Re: 283-D Head Gasket leakage
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 07:49:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.28
In Reply to: 283-D Head Gasket leakage posted by Richard Skinner on April 16, 2000 at 07:25:57:
Hi Richard! I don't think I would worry about the whine. It could be in the hydra-power drive or the hydraulic system. On the head gasket seep, don't be too alarmed as long as it's not a major leak. I have added Stop Leak to the cooling system for this problem. You could also retorque the head bolts. If you are going to pull the head regardless, there may have been an upgrade on the headgaskets. On an engine that's been serviced this long, I'm pretty sure you will see some cracks in the head. Don't get too alarmed. I've put a lot of heads back on that were cracked. About checking compression, for myself, I don't think it's worth the trouble. I feel if you get the head off, you can observe the condition of the liners and possibly measure. When you do the valve job you'll see the leakage at that point. Larry
Antique Oliver
Posted by Ron on April 15, 2000 at 21:41:17: IP Address: 152.163.205.31
Where can I get manuals, parts, and other info on Oliver Hart Parr tractors from late 1920s - early 1930s?
Re: Antique Oliver
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 07:04:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.4
In Reply to: Antique Oliver posted by Ron on April 15, 2000 at 21:41:17:
Hi Ron! For the manuals for the Hart-Parr's from 1920 - 30's, I recommend you check with: Dave Preuhs, Rt. 1 Box 139, Lecenter MN, 507-665-2991. You could also check with Mary Ann Townsend at HPOCA headquarters in Charles City. Her email is: hpocacc@fiai.net Larry
Re: Antique Oliver
Posted by Dennis Giovanetti on April 28, 2000 at 10:34:13: IP Address: 152.163.207.72
In Reply to: Re: Antique Oliver posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 07:04:31:
Have recently purchased an Oliver Track layer, told that it is around 1942 vintage. where can I go to get more information on it? Manual on engine would be most helpful. Any other information appreciated! Thanks, Dennis
Re: Antique Oliver
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 30, 2000 at 05:25:57: IP Address: 209.163.7.44
In Reply to: Re: Antique Oliver posted by Dennis Giovanetti on April 28, 2000 at 10:34:13:
Hi Dennis! I would recommend you call Landis Zimmerman at 717-738-2573. He has a Cletrac business. He should have a manual and the information you need. Another source for a manual is the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors Assoc. Hdq. at Charles City IA. Mary Ann Townsend: hpocacc@fiai.net Larry
2050 low range gone
Posted by wayne on April 15, 2000 at 17:57:41: IP Address: 205.188.192.181
we just bought this tractor at a auction and high range is fine and direct is ok but when put in low range it stays the same speed as direct,is this a major problem or could it be fixed for a reasonable price.
Re: 2050 low range gone
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 15, 2000 at 18:33:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.25
In Reply to: 2050 low range gone posted by wayne on April 15, 2000 at 1
7:57:41: Hi Wayne! It's possible it could be a minor problem but it's also possible it could be a major problem. You're going to have to get a shop manual that covers the hydraul transmission. It may be a problem with the control valving that controls the pressure to the clutches in the unit. You'll have to get a gauge and check it out. Otherwise, if that checks out alright, the unit may have to be disassembled and repaired. This would be a major job as pulling the engine and hydraul out will be required. Larry
Transmision?? 770
Posted by steve on April 15, 2000 at 08:19:43: IP Address: 209.222.74.143
here we go, im afriad what ur gonna give me for an answer but here it is.
Oliver 770 ind., reverse o torque
The past couple days when i put the tractor into Forward or Revese it seemed to hesitate a bit, then snap in.This mornin the transmision seemed to skip a little , then it hit a spot where it would grind and jump a bit, but seemed that the gears wouldnt mess together. I changed to different gear and the same thing, even in Neuatral it was makin the same grindin, and jumpin. if i pushed ahead a bit with the hoe it would go, but still had a slight grind, almost like there is a section of gear gone. I guess im gonna have to tear into it, but thought id wait to hear what u have to say, with any luck it maybe something simple......but thats not my luck. i just got my manual from Mary Ann as u had suggested, just in time by the looks. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as im not much of a mechanic ......yet anyways
thanks for any help
Re: Transmision?? 770
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 15, 2000 at 18:21:20: IP Address: 209.163.7.25
In Reply to: Transmision?? 770 posted by steve on April 15, 2000 at 08:19:43:
Hi Steve! You've got trouble. I'm afraid your Reverse-o-Torque is hashed. You are going to have to tear it down and see what happened. Larry
Re: Transmision?? 770
Posted by steve on April 15, 2000 at 19:35:27: IP Address: 209.222.74.81
In Reply to: Re: Transmision?? 770 posted by Larry Harsin on April 15, 2000 at 18:21:20:
I was afraid u was gonna say that. In the manual it says that the reverse o torque is factory welded and cant be repaired? any way around that? i dont recall if i mentioned above, that even with reverse o torque in neautral it will still grind and jump, but if i put transmision in neatraul it stops grindin, i didnt try the reverse o torque with the transmision in neatrual though. The reason i was thinkin it was a gear is that its at a consistant rate, for example, every wheel revolution, i didnt check the exact occurance. Is there a possibility that there isnt enough fliud preasure to keep the reverse o torque engaged. I guess either way im in for a job
thanks again
Re: Transmision?? 770
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 07:33:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.50
In Reply to: Re: Transmision?? 770 posted by steve on April 15, 2000 at 19:35:27:
Hi Steve. In the manual, they are talking about the Torque Converter itself, but the Reverse-o-Torque gearbox can be repaired. I don't think the Torque Converter itself is a real high priced item. It sounds like you have still not determined where the problem is. The 1st. thing I'd do is remove the drain plugs on the transmission and the final drive of the tractor itself and check for metal filings. If these look ok, then pull the drain plug on the Reverse-o-Torque gear box and see what that looks like. Larry
Re: Transmision?? 770
Posted by Steve on April 16, 2000 at 16:56:16: IP Address: 209.222.74.56
In Reply to: Re: Transmision?? 770 posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 07:33:31:
Okay i found the problem. I couldnt really determine what this is but ill explain the best i can. between the reverse o torque shaft and the input shaft for the transmision there is a hole i can look up and see a double sprocket with a chain, this looks like it conects the 2 shafts together. It has broken away, i can see the fresh broken metal. What is happenin is when this slides forward it comes to the end of the input shaft and is grindin , i slid it back it "works". Could u explain what this is, and what i need for parts and avalibility
Thanks again,
Steve
Re: Transmision?? 770
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 16, 2000 at 18:42:04: IP Address: 209.163.7.19
In Reply to: Re: Transmision?? 770 posted by Steve on April 16, 2000 at 16:56:16:
Hi Steve! You will probably have to remove that transmission input shaft if the splines are worn off of the end of it. I don't know if that shaft can be removed without splitting the tractor at the point where the front frame is bolted to the transmission. Try taking the shaft out first. Then split if you have to. If you do have to split it, you won't have to split it very far. Just 2 - 3 inches. You can take out 2 bolts and put in 2 longer bolts. Then take out the remaining bolts. Of course, the loader frame bolts will have to be removed so the tractor can be moved. Like I said, you may not have to do all of this. If the splines are worn off of that shaft, you can probably take it to a machine shop and have new splines put on the end of it. The part number for that shaft is: 100978A. The part number for the chain is: 101861A. The part number for the sprocket is: 101859AS. You'll have to take the lid off the transmission. Unbolt the gear shift and take it off first. Be careful not to let springs fall down into transmission. I think you will see what has to be done after this point. Larry
1850 carb flooding
Posted by Bud on April 14, 2000 at 04:31:06: IP Address: 205.188.197.47
I have re-built a carb on an 1850 and it FLOODS. If I drain the bowl and start it, it fills, floods and stops. There is even gas showing at the gasket at the intake manifold. It only runs a minute or less to do this. I have checked and rechecked the float setting. What am I missing?
Re: 1850 carb flooding
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 14, 2000 at 04:50:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.4
In Reply to: 1850 carb flooding posted by Bud on April 14, 2000 at 04:31:06:
Hi Bud! Is this carb. a Marvel? If it is, inspect the accelerator pump diaphram. Sounds like it is ruptured. If not ruptured, the accelerator discharge nozzle has a check valve which is spring loaded and may be stuck open. Larry
Super 55 Hydr Draft Control
Posted by Pete in Post Falls on April 13, 2000 at 13:15:10: IP Address: 192.220.148.2
My Draft Control has 2 positions. In one the Hyd System seems to work OK (A little "Hunting" but acceptable) in the other, it drops whatever to the ground.
Is this Normal?
Are you a good parts source for Super 55 parts? How about Horn draulic Loader parts?
Pete in Post Falls
Re: Super 55 Hydr Draft Control
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 13, 2000 at 18:51:29: IP Address: 209.163.7.5
In Reply to: Super 55 Hydr Draft Control posted by Pete in Post Falls on April 13, 2000 at 13:15:10:
Pete.The little lever has 2 positions. One is position control. one is draft control. It sounds like they are functioning properly. Your Operator's Manual should explain these functions. If you need an Operator's Manual, contact Mary Ann Townsend at HPOCA Headquarters in Charles City. hpocacc@fiai.net If you need advice on how to adjust this system, give me a call. 712-362-2966. I don't have any S55 parts. Check with Smitty's Tractor Parts in Dalton OH 330-832-9792. It's best to call in the evening. Or call O'Brien Co. Impl. at Sheldon IA 800-320-6224. O'Brien Co. would be a good place to check on those Horn draulic parts too. Larry
Super 55?
Posted by Keith on April 12, 2000 at 18:15:48: IP Address: 63.81.237.44
Larry,
Got the ole' 55 running this evening. Thanks for all the help. checked the manifold vaccum again. Gauge was waving back and forth between 19-21. Shot some WD-40 down the carb and this smoothed out quite a bit after several big blasts of it. It still waves between 19.5-20.5 if idled up it levels of just under 20. Is this about the best I can expect from this aged engine? Seems to be running fairly well at this point. Also looking for a seat assembly for a 55. part# 1ESR A-949 in good condition if you can get a line on one.
Re: Super 55?
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 13, 2000 at 11:56:26: IP Address: 209.163.7.5
In Reply to: Super 55? posted by Keith on April 12, 2000 at 18:15:48:
Hi Keith! Good for you! It sounds like you have saved yourself an overhaul. That is probably as good as you will get it without an overhaul. Is your seat rebuildable? Korves Bros. Red Bud IL 618-473-2855 or 939-8723 have a rebuild kit for them. They also have the torsion rubbers etc. to sell separately. Larry
Re: Super 55?
Posted by Keith on April 13, 2000 at 13:27:12: IP Address: 63.81.237.52
In Reply to: Re: Super 55? posted by Larry Harsin on April 13, 2000 at 11:56:26:
Larry,
Ineed the entire assembly. What I have sets on wooden blocks.
Re: Super 55?
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 13, 2000 at 18:24:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.47
In Reply to: Re: Super 55? posted by Keith on April 13, 2000 at 13:27:12:
Keith, I have a used rebuildable seat. I'll sell it for $50 plus shipping. It will probably cost $150 to purchase the parts to rebuild it. It's complete, the pan, the bracket, it's all there but it is hashed and needs to be fixed. Larry
1365 Thrust Bearing Problem
Posted by David Bowman on April 12, 2000 at 04:25:26: IP Address: 206.185.4.74
Hi Larry,
I have a 1365 with loader (PTO external pump). This little guy has had two thrust bearing failures in it's 2500-hour lifetime (first one resulted in a new clutch and the second a new block/broken crank). In YT's Oliver Discussion Board, one mechanic suggested that this series was prone to problems if the PTO was not disengaged when not in use. That is tough with a loader/external pump in use. Your thoughts? And does that disengage through the big lever, or through the lever centered over the transmission case (the one tieing in ground-engaging/independent/off pto action)???
Re: 1365 Thrust Bearing Problem
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 12, 2000 at 06:23:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.15
In Reply to: 1365 Thrust Bearing Problem posted by David Bowman on April 12, 2000 at 04:25:26:
Hi David! I'm not familiar with that tractor built by Fiat. I've heard that there were problems in that area. I don't have any information or know who would have. Larry Harsin
880 Diesel with loader
Posted by Steve Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 21:20:17: IP Address: 216.214.86.39
How much you want for that 880 with the loader, dad? That looks like a pretty nice outfit to me.
Steve Harsin
Re: 880 Diesel with loader
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 12, 2000 at 06:17:17: IP Address: 209.163.7.15
In Reply to: 880 Diesel with loader posted by Steve Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 21:20:17:
Hi Steve! We're asking $4250 for the 880D and loader. Dad
1955 turbo
Posted by Larry on April 11, 2000 at 19:03:54: IP Address: 206.175.101.97
Larry, nice web site. I am also an Iowa man. Near Clinton. I have a blown turbo on a 1955. Is there a rebuild kit for them? It seems that used ones are a risk and rebuilt ones are very pricie. I am currently running with a blocking plate. Cuts power a lot. Thanks Larry
Re: 1955 turbo
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 21:18:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.5
In Reply to: 1955 turbo posted by Larry on April 11, 2000 at 19:03:54:
Hi Larry! I'm not aware of a rebuild kit for a 1955 turbo. I think that even though they are pricie I would go with a rebuilt one. Check with Central Tractor and get a quote. 1-888-828-3276. Larry
770 hydraulic pump job,
Posted by Greg R. on April 11, 2000 at 15:57:01: IP Address: 209.153.14.27
I got my service manual today ,, it looks real nice ,, got it from Quality Farm and Country. My first assult will be to look at the leaking hydr.pump seal/seals. To remove the shift lever, the manual shows a "homemade" piece of sheet metal, 4 in by 5 in with a slott cut in it,, it says to insert the plate under the lever socket before lifting the the lever and socket from the Transmission,,, this will keep the springs from falling into the gear box. I would guess you remove the mounting bolts, then tap this sheet metal plate carefully into position between the mounting flange and the transmission top, while keeping a good grip on the shifter to prevent it from falling out before you are ready. Sounds simple,,, then after pulling the pto shaft,, and unbolting the hydr. unit,, it should lift out ,,, right ??? No special tools needed yet I hope ??? Pray for me,,,,I will start this job in the next day or two,,,,
Thanks for all your help,,, if this goes well then it is on to the power steering unit job,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Re: 770 hydraulic pump job,
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 16:46:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.8
In Reply to: 770 hydraulic pump job, posted by Greg R. on April 11, 2000 at 15:57:01:
Hi Greg! It sounds like you are on the right track. You will probably have to put new bearings and new seals in that pump. Also make sure the center plate isn't cracked. Let me know how you come out. Larry
Re: 770 hydraulic pump job,
Posted by Greg R. on April 11, 2000 at 17:33:32: IP Address: 209.153.14.18
In Reply to: Re: 770 hydraulic pump job, posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 16:46:47:
Ok,,, this "center plate" [[is it called the mounting base in the manual ?] is that the plate on top of the transmission, that the hydr. tank or cover is bolted too
Re: 770 hydraulic pump job,
Posted by Greg R. on April 12, 2000 at 05:16:32: IP Address: 209.153.14.14
In Reply to: Re: 770 hydraulic pump job, posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 21:09:40:
ok,,, gotcha,,, thanks,,
283-D
Posted by Richard Skinner on April 11, 2000 at 05:10:52: IP Address: 63.66.139.85
Larry,
One more quick question. Since my 283-D has the Pintle Style injectors, does this mean it has energy cells also. On the opposing side of the injector, there is a large plug for each cylinder. Ofcourse the book doesn't show them for my engine, but again it also shows a different injector. If so, would these add to the hard starting or low idle misfire? Thanks
Re: 283-D
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 09:01:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.4
In Reply to: 283-D posted by Richard Skinner on April 11, 2000 at 05:10:52:
Hi Richard, Yes, you have energy cells. Yes, there is one for each cylinder. They do not necessarily add to the starting problem. A quick way to check: Start the engine cold. Let it run about a minute. Then put your thumb on each engine cap l at a time. The one that's coldest will indicate the problem cylinder. Your problem might be the energy cell or it might be the injector or some other problem in that particular cylinder. I have seen where the engine cell was plugged with carbon but the injector was the initial problem. Good Luck. Larry
770
Posted by Greg R. on April 10, 2000 at 18:47:51: IP Address: 209.153.14.27
This 770 I am working on is I think a "62. [ ser #122567-736 ]It has a factory power steering unit, All the photos I have seen show the p.s. pump to be "piggy-backed" on the generator, My p.s. pump is a stand alone pump above the generator, and there is "1" belt that runs around the: crank-water pump-power steering pump-generator. But there is another pulley on the crank, the p.s.pump has some washers to shim it so it lines up with all the other pullies, it looks sorta' "Rube Goldberged"... Is this p.s. pump suppose to have it's own belt down to the crank ? I need to pull off the radiator and get to power steering "stuff" as there is a pretty good leak under there somewhere,, it leaks out over night... What could I find there ?
Thanks,,, greg
Re: 770
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 10, 2000 at 21:08:15: IP Address: 209.163.7.48
In Reply to: 770 posted by Greg R. on April 10, 2000 at 18:47:51:
Hi Greg! It sounds like someone has done some engineering here. It may have come with the "piggy back" and then someone changed it. As long as it works, its ok. If the p.s. is leaking, first make sure you know exactly where it's leaking. It's hard for me to explain how to repair this p.s. unit on the web. If you would call me on the phone (712-362-2966) I'll try to explain it. I am planning to try to have a repaired unit and do exchanges with customers in the near future. Yes, it's best if p.s. pump has it's own belt to the crank. If it leaks out over night,it might be on the left side when you stand behind it. There's a tin plug in the end of the cast aluminum cover on the left side. Sometimes this leaks. The unit has to be removed from the tractor to fix this problem. First disconnect the steering shaft. To remove you must disconnect the tye rod end out of unit. Then use a 7/8" socket and unscrew the bolt in top of the unit. As you unscrew it it will get loose then it will get tight as it pulls the unit off of the spline. Keep unscrewing til it pops unit off. Then you can remove unit from tractor. Larry
Re: 770
Posted by Greg R. on April 11, 2000 at 05:36:02: IP Address: 209.153.14.29
In Reply to: Re: 770 posted by Larry Harsin on April 10, 2000 at 21:08:15:
Ok, thanks,, I will call you when I get started,, I have a lot goin' on, plus the weather still has not turned into spring yet,, when it does, it will be lawn mowin' times,,,, yuk ! I am going to tear int o the hydr. unit , then the power steering leak. This poor old 770 seeems to have a lot of little problems, but heck,, I got it for 50$ and the repair to the crack in the block seems to be holding up using JB Weld on the outside and Silver Seal in the coolant,, so no big expense yet. If this was to be a "pullin' tractor" or even a workin' tractor I would wonder about the crack repair, one old timer said a good heli-welder could weld it in place, without a tear down ,, so I will fall back on that if need be.Thanks again,, I will be in touch,,
Plus a friend just bought a Super 55 with a loader, that really needs some TLC,, I may help him along with that unless it gets to deep.
Super 88 tricks
Posted by Greg R. on April 10, 2000 at 18:34:52: IP Address: 209.153.14.27
Maybe all you guys already know this , but you can go to the local Case/IH dealer and get the rubber torsion bushings for the Oliver seats. The only thing I found was that the adjusting screw ends up on the bottom instead of on the top of the rubbers. They were about 115$ at the Case/IH store, so they are not really much cheaper than other places where they refurbish them. IH used them on their 706 and other tractors.
Also, if you want to make a 6 volt Oliver into a 12 volt positive ground, just go to the "boneyard" and get a generator, regulator, and coil off of an old Chevy, then you can sorta' keep the original "look" of the Oliver charging system. You may want to put a resistor from the coil to the dist. I seemed to burn up points before I did that.
Exhuast mainfold Stud
Posted by Keith on April 09, 2000 at 14:32:24: IP Address: 63.81.237.21
Larry,
Just wanted to pass on an alternitive to burning out a broken stud and easy out. It took a little while,(about 20 minutes of drilling) but a masonary bit in an electric hammer drill did the trick without the hazzards or the stress (on me) of burning it out with a torch. Just fired up the 55 for about 15 minutes. the new manifold gaskets seem to have smoothed the missing. Have not put it all together but fired it up open header and a temp gas tank. runs much better. Should not need to pull the head. thanks again.
Re: Exhuast mainfold Stud
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 09, 2000 at 19:06:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.37
In Reply to: Exhuast mainfold Stud posted by Keith on April 09, 2000 at 14:32:24:
Hi Keith, I'm glad everything worked out well for you. That masonary bit and hammer drill sounds like a good idea. Thanks. Larry
1650D Injectors
Posted by Richard Skinner on April 09, 2000 at 08:36:56: IP Address: 63.66.139.93
Nice Site!
I have a 1650D with a 283D and I was looking in the Waukesha (Arrow)manual and it says the 283D is suppose to have pencil style injectors but the smaller engines had pintle type injectors. I'm wondering how accurate that information is because my 283D has the pintle type. Is this something Waukesha did for Olivers or has someone swapped parts around on me?
The old tractor has 8800 hours on it and takes awhile to start even in warm weather but runs great when she warms up. At an idle, she will burn pretty clean then every once in awhile she'll spit a little black smoke. I was thinking the injectors should be cleaned or taken down to the shop for a rebuild. I haven't ran a compression test yet (afraid to) but really because I don't have an adapter to fit the head.
Some say that I'm getting due for an overhaul with that number of hours on her. I deal with numerous engines from natural gas to diesel and most have a lifespan of 12,000 to 40,000 hours.
What is your opinion for the number of hours on this old girl?
Re: 1650D Injectors
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 09, 2000 at 19:02:11: IP Address: 209.163.7.37
In Reply to: 1650D Injectors posted by Richard Skinner on April 09, 2000 at 08:36:56:
Hi Richard, The earlier 1650D had the pintle style engine and the later ones had the pencil style. I would suggest that you pull the injectors and have them checked. The pressure is probably down on them. See if that improves things. No doubt the engine has some wear. If this helps on your starting I would leave the engine alone except I would pull the pan and check the rod and main bearings and see if they need replacement. In other words an "underhaul". You've done well with this engine. That's good hours!! Thanks for the compliment to our site. Larry
Re: 1650D Injectors
Posted by Richard on April 10, 2000 at 04:23:54: IP Address: 63.66.139.112
In Reply to: Re: 1650D Injectors posted by Larry Harsin on April 09, 2000 at 19:02:11:
Thanks Larry, I'll let you know the results.
Roll over for a 1855 or 1955
Posted by Brandon on April 08, 2000 at 16:43:08: IP Address: 205.188.196.32
Can u find the my cousin a open rops for is 1955? It must be in good shape the 1855 uses the same one as the 1955 does. I am sure apprecaite it
Thanks,
Brandon Howell
Re: Roll over for a 1855 or 1955
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 11, 2000 at 04:08:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.38
In Reply to: Roll over for a 1855 or 1955 posted by Brandon on April 08, 2000 at 16:43:08:
Hi Brandon! I have checked around and I can't find used rops. Your Agco Dealer can order a new one for you. Larry
3pth pto
Posted by Steve on April 08, 2000 at 06:52:53: IP Address: 209.222.74.29
hi Larry, GREAT site....looks like ur gonna have your hands full answerin question! Best site ive seen for listin what u have for parts, and direct answers.
Heres my question, i have a 770 ind, with a quick hitch Ware hoe, no pto or 3pth. Id like to be able to have a few implements, ie. winch, harrow/plow, tiller, spliter, bush hog etc.., in the future. From what ive heard from others its quite a project to install a pto on and industrial model. My thought was a 3pth and hydralic drivin implements. How much a problem would it be to put just a 3pth on. I dont have a manual to look at digrams yet, (what would u suggest as a good manual)
any insite would be aprreciated, thanks
Re: 3pth pto
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 08, 2000 at 08:14:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.24
In Reply to: 3pth pto posted by Steve on April 08, 2000 at 06:52:53:
Hi Steve! It will be real hard to do this. If your tractor has Reverse-o-Torque, you can't have a PTO. If you don't have Reverse-o-Torque, it will be very difficult to obtain the correct PTO drive shaft. I don't think you have enough hydraulics to run a Bush Hog. You do have enough for a winch or a splitter. A 3 pt. hitch would mess up your quick hitch. It might be a possibility to have a machine shop fabricate some kind of hitch to go on your existing hoe hitch. You can get a manual from Mary Ann Townsend at the Floyd Co. Museum at Charles City. hpocacc@fia.net She will need the model numbers of the Ware equipment you have. Larry
Re: 3pth pto
Posted by Sandra Harsin on April 09, 2000 at 18:44:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.37
In Reply to: Re: 3pth pto posted by Larry Harsin on April 08, 2000 at 08:14:18:
Hi Steve! I messed up on Mary Ann's email address. It is: hpocacc@fiai.net I looked at the new membership book and it is printed wrong in it. Sorry, Sandy Harsin
Re: 3pth pto
Posted by Steve on April 08, 2000 at 15:21:47: IP Address: 209.222.74.31
In Reply to: Re: 3pth pto posted by Larry Harsin on April 08, 2000 at 08:14:18:
Thanks, i guess the PTO is definatly out now, i do have Reverse-o-Torque, i had also thought of haveing a 3pth fabricated, sounds like this will be the route more practical over all. On the the matter of manual i was talkin bout for the 770, would she also have a manual for that ? Thanks again, Great! advice, ure sure to hear from me again, im new at this, and not much of a mechanic, just enough to get into trouble
Re: 3pth pto
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 08, 2000 at 18:00:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.20
In Reply to: Re: 3pth pto posted by Steve on April 08, 2000 at 15:21:47:
Hi Steve. Yes, Mary Ann Townsend has all the Oliver Manuals. The Floyd Co Museum was given alot of these things by White Motor Co. when the Charles City Plant closed. Larry
Oliver 77 Hydra-Lectric problems
Posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 07, 2000 at 21:37:07: IP Address: 152.163.206.214
Dear Mr. Harsin:
I have an Oliver 77 and my hydra-lectric 3-point hitch was going all the way up (and continuing to run) when I turned it on. I removed the two relays and believe they are bad. I cannot find these relays for a 6-volt system, only for a 12-volt system. Do you have any suggestions for finding (replacing) the relays. Further can the hydra-Lectric hydraulic system be converted to a 12-volt system, if so, what needs to be replaced and where can I get them.
Thank you for your help and cooperation!!! I also grew up with Olivers and I know they are the best ever made without a doubt!!!
Re: Oliver 77 Hydra-Lectric problems Posted by Larry Harsin on April 08, 2000 at 05:21:54: IP Address: 209.163.7.25
In Reply to: Oliver 77 Hydra-Lectric problems posted by Marlo W. Mangus on April 07, 2000 at 21:37:07:
Hi Marlo! I would switch to a 12 volt system. In the days when these tractors were made, the diesels were 12 volt systems. Just change the relays to the 12 volt and use a 12 volt battery. You will need a resistor for the ignition coil, a 12 volt generator and a 12 volt regulator. You can change the bulbs in your lights or put a resistor in them. If you really want to keep using the 6 volt system, I can check around at some of our area dealers who still have some old stock parts. Larry
1550 cab
Posted by Jackson on April 07, 2000 at 15:47:22: IP Address: 216.63.94.155
does anyone know where i could pick up a cab for a 1550?thanks,Jackson
Re: 1550 cab
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 17:46:06: IP Address: 209.163.7.20
In Reply to: 1550 cab posted by Jackson on April 07, 2000 at 15:47:22:
Jackson. I don't have any idea right now. Maybe someone else will see this and answer you. It might help if your location was known. Larry
Re: 1550 cab
Posted by Jackson on April 07, 2000 at 19:00:36: IP Address: 216.63.94.146
In Reply to: Re: 1550 cab posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 17:46:06:
larry,great forum!the kansas city area.thanks,jackson
Glad to find you!!!
Posted by Keith on April 07, 2000 at 14:09:24: IP Address: 63.81.237.82
Just found this site thanks to Larry Morphew's post on Yesterday's Tractors. I will probably be a frequent visitor. I have just started restoring a '54 Super 55. Have been having a hard time getting it running right. Right now I have the manifolds and valve cover off. Was getting an air leakage around what was left of the gaskets. I broke off the manifold stud next to the #1 cyl. Drilled it then broke off an easy out in stud. I am thinking of trying to burn out the easy out & then drilling the stud deeper and wider to get a better grip. What do you think? Also, I had a vaccum gauge on the manifold before starting this. When cold it would read about 17-19 with a steady vibration between the two. Engine runs pretty smooth at this point. As engine builds temp. the vaccum drops between to 10-15 and has the steady vibration between the two. Would smooth out if carb. cleaner was sprayed in the area. Do you think the intake manifold would be the only cause of this or should I pull the head for futher inspection? compression test read about 95lbs in all cyls. with plugs removed but I don't know what the rpm was at that time. One last thing for now. I was checking the valve clearance while I had the cover off. Manual says .010-.012 on intake and ,015-.017 on the exhaust. on a older motor. Would you tend to go with less or more clearance when you set them?
Re: Glad to find you!!!
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 16:26:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.3
In Reply to: Glad to find you!!! posted by Keith on April 07, 2000 at 14:09:24:
Hi Keith! Happy you found me! How you plan to use this tractor would make a difference to me whether to overhaul it or not. Like whether you plan to use it for work or just to run enough for occasional small jobs. Burning out the old easy out and drilling deeper and wider is the way to go here. Sometimes a left hand drill bit works better in cases like this. Just be careful you don't break off the bit! At the present time I wouldn't pull the head. Try getting the manifold gaskets corrected and see if this solves the problem. You can always take the head off and look for worn valve guides and worn cylinders etc. The compression sounds ok for now. I would adjust the valves to less clearance because of wear on the contact area between the rocker arms and the valve stems.
Larry
Re: Glad to find you!!!
Posted by Keith on April 07, 2000 at 20:19:54: IP Address: 63.81.237.59
In Reply to: Re: Glad to find you!!! posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 16:26:23:
Thanks Larry
Oliver transmission oil
Posted by Greg R. on April 07, 2000 at 13:49:10: IP Address: 209.153.14.32
It says in the Oliver Super 88 operator's manual,on what to put in the gear box; "use seasonal grade transmission oil". Now,,, what would that be ??
Also on this Oliver 770 I am working on, it has the torque, or as Oliver calls it ,, the power boost. The guy I bought it from said "it did not work". I have the lever "forward" and the tractor does function with all six gears, aside from the "classic" rear end howl made famous by Oliver, but I am afraid to "pull the boost lever back" thinking some thing may fly apart. Do these boosters get out of adjustment,, or somehting to make them not work? And since it does operate with the lever forwards,, should I just tack weld the lever so no one can move it ?? I have a repair manual on order ,, will that describe this unit ??
Thanks .....
Re: Oliver transmission oil
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 16:10:00: IP Address: 209.163.7.3
In Reply to: Oliver transmission oil posted by Greg R. on April 07, 2000 at 13:49:10:
Hi Greg! In the Super 88, use 80-90 transmission oil. On the Oliver 770, it won't hurt to pull the lever back. Chances are, the tractor will just stop. From the description, it does not sound like its out of adjustment. The sprag clutch for the under drive is probably worn. I wouldn't tack weld the lever until I got the shop manual for it. You have 3 options here: 1. Leave it alone with the lever ahead. 2. Repair the unit to work like new. 3. Remove the power boost so it will be like a Super 88 transmission. Yes, the manual will describe the unit. Larry
Re: Oliver transmission oil
Posted by Greg R. on April 08, 2000 at 09:35:27: IP Address: 209.153.14.14
In Reply to: Re: Oliver transmission oil posted by Larry Harsin on April 07, 2000 at 16:10:00:
Thanks,,, for your info,,, this is my summer project, so I may tinker with the power unit after I look at the hydr. problem. I sent a check for the oil bowl and ring Friday,, let me know if you do not get it next week,, or if it is not enough.
later ,,, greg
1755 oil filter?
Posted by don on April 06, 2000 at 20:52:44: IP Address: 205.188.192.38
just a quick question- is the spin-on engine oil filter on our 1755 deisel something the previous owner put on or is it factory installed? we went to a local dealership and they only had the sock kind and didn't even know there was a spin-on for the 1755
Re: 1755 oil filter?
Posted by don on April 13, 2000 at 20:39:13: IP Address: 205.188.198.152
In Reply to: 1755 oil filter? posted by don on April 06, 2000 at 20:52:44:
thanks for all your help. bought the new filter and works fine
Re: 1755 oil filter?
Posted by Wrenchbender on April 09, 2000 at 21:14:09: IP Address: 209.240.200.172
In Reply to: 1755 oil filter? posted by don on April 06, 2000 at 20:52:44:
If the 1650 filter does not match up,you may have the set up I had on a 1750 once. It was a spin-on filter and oil cooler that replaced the sock type filter. If I remember right,it was the same filter as used on a 2-135. Good luck, WB.
Re: 1755 oil filter?
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 06, 2000 at 22:01:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.23
In Reply to: 1755 oil filter? posted by don on April 06, 2000 at 20:52:44:
Hi Don. Yes, the spin on filter is one someone has put on. As far as I know this is perfectly alright and is how I would prefer to do it. The Oliver part number you need for the spin on filter is 155618A, the same as the 1650 gas uses. Larry
Prices
Posted by Roger on April 06, 2000 at 19:06:24: IP Address: 171.223.201.237
Always wanted a 2255! What's the price? Also the 1800 tricycle? Nice web site, someone's done a lot of work.
Re: Prices
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 06, 2000 at 22:06:23: IP Address: 209.163.7.23
In Reply to: Prices posted by Roger on April 06, 2000 at 19:06:24:
Hi Roger! Thanks for the compliments! I have the 2255 priced at $7950 and the 1800 tricycle priced at $4250. Larry
Oliver 1600 I transmission
Posted by Bob Melville on April 05, 2000 at 07:25:54: IP Address: 192.232.120.194
Hi Larry - Cool website you've built here - nice job!
Here's my problem:
We have a '62(?) Oliver 1600 industrial with a Reverse-o-Torq transmission. It worked fine for many years, but lately it works OK only for the first 10 minutes or so, then gradually takes longer and longer to engage, and finally fails to engage at all. It also gets hot quickly (too hot to touch), yet the lines to the cooler in front of the radiator remain stone cold. After letting it cool down, it will work alright for a few minutes then fails to engage again.
We've disconnected and blown out the cooler and lines - they are clear. The fluid (ATF) is clean, and the filter has been replaced several times without effect.
My questions:
1 - Is there something else we can do (adjustments, etc) we can do to get the reverser working properly?
2 - Failing that, is it possible to add a reverse gear to the main transmission? (The Reverse-o-Torque provides reversing now.) We'd then swap the Reverse-o-Torque for a standard clutch, or clutch/Hydrapower.
Thanks in advance!!
Bob Melville
Re: Oliver 1600 I transmission
Posted by Larry Harsin on April 06, 2000 at 09:56:03: IP Address: 209.163.7.28
In Reply to: Oliver 1600 I transmission posted by Bob Melville on April 05, 2000 at 07:25:54:
Hi Bob! There are 2 regulator valves on the front left side of the Reverse-o-Torque. Check to see if they are sticking. You will need a 200 lb pressure gauge. It is to be installed (attached) at the top of the reverser housing on the back side of the bell housing. The top regulator valve is the high pressure regulator valve. The lower cap retains the converter charge regulator valve. Remove these valves one at a time and clean them and clean the valve ports. Reinstall the high pressure regulator valve and cap but Do NOT reinstall the spring. With shift pedals fully released, start engine and increase engine speed to 1800 RPM. The pressure guage should read 80 PSI (pounds). If it does not reach 80 PSI, remove or add shims (spacer washers) to obtain the correct setting. Then go back and reinstall the spring you removed from the high pressure valve. Then start engine and increase speed to 1800 RPM. Then it should come up to 160 PSI. If this doesn't work, you have internal problems and it will have to be torn down. It would be possible to install a reverse idler in the transmission but that is quite an involved process. Larry
Re: Oliver 1600 I transmission
Posted by Bob Melville on April 07, 2000 at 06:38:39: IP Address: 192.232.120.194
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 1600 I transmission posted by Larry Harsin on April 06, 2000 at 09:56:03:
Thanks Larry! That's exactly the diagnostic info was looking for! Won't have a chance to give it a try until next weekend - will let you know how I make out. I appreciate your advice!
Bob Melville