"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" April through mid-May, 2002 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" April through mid-May, 2002 Archives
carb
IP: 62.224.215.140 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 02:59:06 PM by Mr.T
Larry, Just moved in town[O.C. Md.] trying to help a neighbor. He brought me a Marvel/Schieber carb in kit form from a Oliver 66 4cyl. It had been in water and was rusty so I soaked it in Murratic acid. Cleaned up real well. I have never worked on a tractor so I hope this didn't destroy the carb. I race drag cars so my experience is with Hollys. The float's left bulb was dented and the arm was bent. leaked tested it seems ok. straighten the arm and ressembled the carb. Guessed at the float height but after I turned on the gas it ran out the throat of the carb. What is the float's level to be set at? Do you rebuild carbs? Can one get parts for these old carbs? thanks Mr.T
Re(1): carb
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:49:48 PM by Larry Harsin
The float is set at approx. a quarter inch from the carb body to the float. Yes, I rebuild them. If you want me to repair it, send it to me at 3426 170th St., Estherville IA 51334. Yes, you can get parts for them. Larry
2255
IP: 64.33.181.205 Posted on May 12, 2002 at 08:39:50 PM by frank
how many horse is the 2255 tractor.
Re(1): 2255
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 07:22:48 AM by Larry Harsin
Most of them were set at about 145 horsepower. Larry
88 gas
IP: 205.188.197.178 Posted on May 12, 2002 at 07:34:22 PM by drew
i have a 1950 rowcrop 88 gas, the electric harness has been chopped into. the tractor runs but i would like to restore the elect harness . know where i could get a diagram? thanks. drew.
Re(1): 88 gas
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 07:21:43 AM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City/Mary Ann Townsend. hpocacc@fiai.net. The diagram will be in it. Korves Bros korves@htc.net has the wiring harness. Larry
OC-46-3 gas
IP: 216.234.101.208 Posted on May 12, 2002 at 00:05:09 AM by Keddano
Yes, this was my weekend for Olivers,I picked up a OC-46-3 gas crawler.I've ordered the manuals for it.While I wait for them, what is the dist.point setting? Also looking for a radiator, tracks, and other parts. Thanks Dan
Re(1): OC-46-3 gas
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:38:41 PM by Larry Harsin
The distributor point gap is .022. Contact Landis Zimmerman for parts. zoc@att.net or 717-738-2573. Larry
Super"77" vs "77"
IP: 216.234.101.208 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 11:45:11 PM by Keddano
Just bought a what I thought was a super 77,checked # 3390040 and it's a 1951 "77".This tractor has orignal paint and (decals looked orignal)They say SUPER77.If someone converted this over to a super "77" years ago is there any way of telling without opening it up?What is the bore and stroke of the "77" and Super"77"?Also will any bigger manifolds and/or carbs fit it?Thanks Dan
Re(1): Super
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 07:15:40 AM by Larry Harsin
It is a 1951 model straight 77. I would guess that someone put S77 sleeves and pistons in it and put S77 decals on it. You could put it on a dyno and check the horsepower. That will tell you if it has been changed over. The 77 came with a 3 and 5/16 bore and a 3 and 3/4 stroke. The S77 had a 3 and a half inch bore and stroke. You can put a S77 manifold and carb on it. Larry
Re(2): Super
IP: 216.234.125.169 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 04:33:17 PM by Keddano
Larry,do you know the casting # on the s77 manifold, Thanks Dan
Re(3): Super
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:35:20 PM by Larry Harsin
It is M 415. Larry
88 Hydraulics
IP: 12.150.140.119 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 10:27:19 PM by Greg Davis
Larry, I have an 88 that you have to speed up the engine to get it to pick up implements that are not very heavy. It gets worse when the hydraulic oil is hot. The pump and resevoir have been rebuilt about 2 years ago. It has never really been a strong pump since. I understand the sides of the pump can be surfaced where the gears have worn into them. Will this help? Also, how do I tell if I need to replace the gears of the pump and the center piece around the pump. How much would that cost? I think it is just worn and all I replaced was bearings, O rings and seals. How much is a completely reconditioned pump from you? How much pressure should it be putting out at the remote cupplings? Sorry for all the questions. Thanks for the advice. Greg Davis
Re(1): 88 Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 07:09:11 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, resurfacing the side plates really helps if they are worn. I look at the gears and compare them to a pump that is not worn to determine whether to replace them or not. I have a reconditioned pump for $350 plus shipping or if you want to, send me your pump, I can repair it if it is repairable. The cost will be on a time and material basis. At the remote cupplings, the pressure should range from 1050 to 1250 not to exceed 1250. Larry
Re(2): 88 Hydraulics
IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 10:30:44 AM by Greg Davis
Larry, I've got another pump that I rebuilt. It looks pretty good inside. I think i'm going to try it first. If this doesn't work I'll get back with you. Thanks for the advice and your website is great. Greg
Oliver 1755 replacement engine
IP: 64.216.55.86 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 08:55:58 PM by Harvey
I am looking for information about how to replace the orginal Diesel 6 Cly engine with a Cummins engine. I need to know which engine that is used and what it takes to make the changeover.
Re(1): Oliver 1755 replacement engine
IP: 209.163.7.70 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 10:33:27 PM by Larry Harsin
The engine that is used is about the same one that is used in the Dodge Pickups. Cummins Great Plains is the outfit that has the info about redo-ing them. Your AGCO Dealer should have the phone number for them. Tom at O'Brien Co Impl will have if they don't. 800-320-6224. It costs roughly $10,000 to do it. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1755 replacement engine
IP: 64.12.103.163 Posted on May 12, 2002 at 11:27:08 AM by Don
Also, over on YT's oliver board shep is over there talking about his oliver conversions. He would gladly talk you through it and tell you any problems he has had. He has done an 1850 and an 1855 both with the Cummins 5.9L, and I'm sure it would work in a 1755 as well. Just gotta be careful not to have it cranked up too many hp so as not to bust up the whole rear end, but I have heard of 1755's handleing the load of a 5.9. Goodluck, Don
sticking valves
IP: 208.10.124.249 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 11:36:45 AM by Larry Wolfe
I am still haveing the valves stick on my 1555.I have tryed replaceing the springs and removeing the oil seals.I can only get 10 hours running before they stick again.I am not looseing any water and its not running hot.Do you have anything to try.
Re(2): sticking valves
IP: 208.10.124.97 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 05:48:14 PM by Larry Wolfe
I forgot to say its a diesel.I don't have a temperature guage or a hole to screw the send unit into.This tractor has the oil coolers in front of the radiator and no heat exchanger on the hydro-power.I am getting plenty of oil to the rocker arm shaft, but its not getting to the valves.
Re(3): sticking valves
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 10:06:25 PM by Larry Harsin
Another thing to do to get more oil over onto the valves is to shim under the rocker arm supports with washers to raise the rocker arm shaft slightly. This will allow oil to run over onto the rocker arms and get more onto the top of the valves. See if this helps. Larry
Re(4): sticking valves
IP: 208.10.124.172 Posted on May 12, 2002 at 11:45:33 AM by Larry Wolfe
That sounds good i'll try it.Thanks
Re(5): sticking valves
IP: 208.10.124.188 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 05:47:44 PM by Larry Wolfe
Well I don't think shims under the rocker posts will work.There are no threads left on the adjustment nuts now so theres no where to go.I freed up the valves and ran the tractor on a sever lean with the cover off.All that happened was oil ran over the edge of the head and out,but no oil ran over the rockers onto the valves.I then reinstalled the cover and air cleaner and ran it for 2 hours and it ran fine.I know this wont last.
Re(6): sticking valves
IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on May 13, 2002 at 08:44:32 PM by Larry Harsin
You can put the lock nuts for those rocker arms on the bottom side and then you will have enough thread. After you get those nuts changed and get those arms tipped some, take a chisel or a file or something and make a little channel on the rocker arm so the oil will run down there. Larry
Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 63.27.103.197 Posted on May 9, 2002 at 09:14:50 PM by Noel Putman
I just bought a super 55. The hydraulics work great for about an hour of mowing lifting the finish mower occasionally. Then it will no longer lift. Upon checking the hyd fluid level I noticed the fluid was milky (and was not previously). After an hour of non use the hydraulics will work just fine again. Any suggestions as to what may be causing this? Thanks much, Noel Putman
Re(1): Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.8 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 06:41:58 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing to do is change the hydraulic fluid and put in a new filter. From the I&T Shop Manual: "Recommended operating fluid for the hydraulic lift system is SAE 5W engine oil for temps below 32 degrees, or SAE 10W-30 for all seasons. Reservoir capacities are: 9 qts, for systems without external or remote cylinders, ll qts. for systems with external or remote cylinders." If you feel that the milky look is from it being foamy, I would try non foaming hyd. fluid that meets the viscosity specs. as quoted above. These Manuals are 40 yrs. old and some of these oils now have more additives that cause foaming. Milky can be caused by water in the oil also. Larry
Re(2): Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 63.27.103.201 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 04:18:39 PM by Noel Putman
OK will do. I'll let you know the results. Thanks for taking questions!!
Re(2): super 55
IP: 63.26.248.246 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 11:29:03 PM by Noel
Well I drained the hyd system as the I&T manual outlines. Before I refilled it I looked down in there and there seemed to be a lot of sludge in the bottom of the hyd unit. Is there anything I can do to clean it out without taking the unit off the tractor? Also what fluid should I use to refill the hyd system? Thanks, Noel
Re(3): Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.73 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 06:06:59 AM by Larry Harsin
I would just leave the sludge in there. You would have to take the tractor apart to get it out. Use 10W 30 or 30W oil to replace the oil. Larry
Re(4): Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 63.27.103.48 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 09:23:42 PM by Noel
Am I to use non-detergent oil, or can I use valvoline? While I was working I noticed that there is a linkage under the seat on the opposite side from the hyd dip stick. This was connected with baling wire at the rear connection. After I looked at the manual and a trip to the hardware store I fixed and adjusted it. The lift works great now but is still foaming the oil. Would a detergent oil not foam. Thanks, Noel
Re(5): Super 55 Hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 10:10:15 PM by Larry Harsin
I would tend to use a non-foaming hydraulic oil SAE 30W. Larry
super 55
IP: 216.74.205.236 Posted on May 9, 2002 at 11:08:03 AM by Roger Mothersbaugh
Larry; Recently purchased a super 55. The previous owner installed a new clutch and transmission shaft. He said after installation he could not adjust the clutch so as not to grind gears. A shadetree mechanic told him to install one washer for a spacer in each hole between the engine and transmission housing. It will go into gear with the engine at low idle and only minor grinding. Any ideas on this? Thanks, Roger.
Re(1): super 55
IP: 209.163.7.61 Posted on May 9, 2002 at 01:09:27 PM by Larry Harsin
First of all, you are going to have to get a shop manual so you can see what the specifications are. Contact Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net to get one. You are going to have to take it apart and compare it to the spec. and go from there. Those washers shouldn't be required. Larry
Oliver 1755 Diesel
IP: 64.216.55.166 Posted on May 8, 2002 at 06:56:22 PM by Harvey
What type of engine was used in an Oliver 1755 Diesel tractor. I need to find an engine for a man who has one with severely damaged engine.
Re(1): Oliver 1755 Diesel
IP: 152.163.197.214 Posted on May 8, 2002 at 08:49:36 PM by Don
the deisels were 310 waukeshaw's. the same engine was used in the 1755, 1855, 1955, and 1950 T. the 1755 is the only one with out the turbo. there is an update kit available for those without oil coolers, although this isn't entirely nessesary with the 1755 as it is with the larger tractors. I change the oil in mine every 50 hours or so, as do many other people. the only real difference is the fuel pump as far as I can tell. the larger the tractor, the higher the pump is turned up. Basically, you can turn up the fuel on your 1755 and get a few extra horse's out of it if you really want. Don
1950 GM
IP: 208.49.186.251 Posted on May 7, 2002 at 04:00:16 PM by ATM
would like to know if a1950 ####shutt (Oliver) GM tub will bolt up with a 1855-1955 or any other back half and will every thing line up? Found a1950 Wheatland but I would like to use this tractor for farming need 3point an adjustable front end. Thought if I could find a tractor without a motor could swap tub and front end and would have a tractor with better hydraulics and over under. How heavy are the rear end parts in smaller 1750-1855 would they holdup. If any one has any thoughts on this please let me know. Thanks ATM
Re(1): 1950 GM
IP: 209.163.7.47 Posted on May 7, 2002 at 09:04:33 PM by Larry Harsin
I think it will line up. The 1855 would hold up o.k. The 1750 might work, it won't be quite as heavy and might be a problem. Larry
Stuck Front End
IP: 209.192.126.51 Posted on May 6, 2002 at 01:03:59 PM by Terry Rice
Larry, I need to adjust the front-end width on my 1655 row crop, but it is stuck. I sprayed penetrating oil where I could, took the pin out,loosened the u-clamp and then hit it with a sledge and a block of wood. It would not budge. I thought I could pull it out by using another tractor and remote hydraulic cylinder chained to it. All this did was slide the 1655's front end sideways. I even snubbed the other side to the back of my truck and it still slid everything sideways. At that point I quit before breaking something. I know this may seem like a simple problem, but it has me stumped. Sorry to be so long winded and I enjoy your site very much. Thanks, Terry Rice
Re(1): Stuck Front End
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on May 6, 2002 at 02:09:02 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to heat that with a torch and pound it with a sledge and heat and pound and heat and pound, etc. It's a long process called "Heat and Beat" :-). Good Luck! Larry
Re(2): Stuck Front End
IP: 209.192.126.51 Posted on May 7, 2002 at 12:43:09 AM by Terry Rice
Larry, Thank you for your quick response. I'll try "Heating & Beating". Terry
Oliver Super 55 Gas
IP: 208.149.201.217 Posted on May 6, 2002 at 10:30:52 AM by Kevin Van Pelt
My Oliver Super 55 Gas has serial number 14050518 and specification number 150005. Can you tell me the year of manufacture, what the specification number means, and what it was for? Thank you.
Re(1): Oliver Super 55 Gas
IP: 209.163.7.50 Posted on May 6, 2002 at 02:05:38 PM by Larry Harsin
Your S55 was built in 1957. The specification number tells how the tractor was put together, for the purpose to be used and what is included in it. For more detailed info, contact Sherry Schaefer at: sherry@oliverinformation.com. Larry
Where Can I find The Serial #
IP: 64.109.106.192 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 06:31:45 PM by Jon Fiala
I was out at my grandfather's farm today helping him out with various chores and somehow got into a discussion while standing beside an old 1255 oliver. It has a front end loader that is original. It's 2 wheel drive, I'm not sure what HP motor it has. Well we started looking around for a serial # and Grandpa wasn't too sure where to look for it. He said it's an Oliver 1255 Vineyard. My questions are, where is the serial #. How do i find out when it was built. And where can i find original specifications for this tractor. Any information would help. Thanks
Re(1): Where Can I find The Serial #
IP: 209.163.7.25 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 11:03:40 PM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual for your 1255. It will answer all your questions. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net I'm not sure where the serial number is on that model, but I think it may be on the dash. If you can find the serial number and send it to us, we can tell you the year. They made the 1255 from 1969 thru 1971. All of this plus the specs. will be in the Manual. Larry
3-point hitch
IP: 206.145.161.22 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 09:57:18 AM by mike
I have an Oliver 1550 and am having trouble with getting the 3-point to work. All fluids are up. It will raise when I increase the RPM's but has no power to lift. Any ideas?
Re(1): 3-point hitch
IP: 209.163.7.25 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 10:56:43 PM by Larry Harsin
If your remote outlets have normal pressure and the steering works o.k., you may need to check the little valve on the right side of the housing by your right foot. There is a 3/4 inch bolt head there that screws into the side. It is fine threaded. Just make sure this is screwed in snugly. If this does not help, I feel that the problem is in the regulator spool in the servo valve. Sometimes it is just a burr or a filing on this regulator spool. Occasionally I have been able to make things correct themselves by running the engine at full throttle and then wiggling the remote lever back and forth a few times. This causes oil surges to go through the valve and helps free up the regulator spool. If this doesn't help, then the servo valve will need to be removed and the regulator spool will have to be checked out. Larry
Re(2): 3-point hitch
IP: 206.145.161.13 Posted on May 9, 2002 at 09:20:16 PM by Mike
No luck yet. Where is the servo valve? I have an operators manual, is there a shop manual? Where could I order one?
Re(3): 3-point hitch
IP: 209.163.7.91 Posted on May 14, 2002 at 06:50:16 AM by Larry Harsin
The servo valve is inside the hydraulic unit, under the seat. To get at it, you must remove the top plate of the hydraulic unit. It is held in place by 4 5/16ths cap screws. You will need a Shop Manual to do this. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net. Before you start taking the unit apart, plug a hose into one of the outlets and pump the oil out of the unit. Larry
10 spline hubs
IP: 64.12.104.58 Posted on May 4, 2002 at 02:13:41 PM by Drew
Larry can you tell me the measurements for the oliver 80 and 70 row crop rear axle spline. I checked ours and the best i can tell is the 80 spline from side to side to top of spline is 2 3/4" and the 70 is 2 5/8". Ther is a set of hubs for sale with a 10 spline for oliver hart parr? casting number HC307 and just trying to figure out what they will fit. Thanks For your time.
Re(1): 10 spline hubs
IP: 209.163.7.20 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 06:09:53 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know what tractor that would be for. The H numbers are for 60's. I don't have an 80 RC to go measure. I do know that the 80 axle is larger than the 70 axle and they will not interchange. Larry
770 steering
IP: 216.114.202.137 Posted on May 1, 2002 at 10:12:27 PM by Dale Kavitz
Hi Larry, I was wondering if the steering could be tightened up. Someone told me it could be. The play is in the gears at the front of tractor. It is a wide front. Thanks
Re(1): 770 steering
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 07:00:14 AM by Larry Harsin
Does it have power steering or is it manual? If it is manual, there are 2 points of adjustment. The first thing you should do is check the play on the worm shaft. There's a lock nut on the front of the unit. Then adjust the plug in until the play is gone. Do not over tighten! Then, adjust the play between the worm and the sector with the screw on top of the unit. Turning the screw in or down will tighten it. Again, DO NOT set it too tight! Larry
1465
IP: 207.238.246.138 Posted on May 1, 2002 at 09:42:56 PM by Kevin Roberts
Larry, There is an auction coming up with a 1465 diesel in it.Being new to the the Oliver scene thought you might be able to enlighten me a little.Will it handle big bales,12'or 15' brush hog,7' or9' disc mower.Any major weakness'with this .I have heard only good about olivers but can't find anyone with direct knowledge of this and judging from your site , I trust your judgement.One more question,do you know the hydraulic gpm's and working pressures.The sales is May 8 ,hope you have time to reply before then,if not alittle more knowledge might help me down the road. Eagerly waiting your reply. THANKS KEVIN ROBERTS
Re(1): 1465
IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 07:07:47 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1465 was the largest of 3 tractors built for Oliver by Fiat. These were not built to be Utility tractors. And I am not real familiar with their hydraulics. However, I would think they would handle your brush hog and your disc mower. As far as "big bales", there are several sizes that people refer to as "big bales". It would handle 1000 - 1200 lb bales alright. Some "big bales" are much heavier. Larry
Re(2): 1465
IP: 207.238.246.151 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 05:30:17 PM by Kevin Roberts
Larry, thanks for the quick reply.Gotta couple more questions if you've got the time.How much does 1465 weigh (approx)and are parts available.Also,I was unsure what you were telling me about it not being built to be utility tractor.Will it not handle a front loader? Is it comparable at all to the U.S. olivers in size, lugging power,looks and dependability.
Re(3): 1465
IP: 209.163.7.20 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 06:04:30 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know what it weighs. I would guess between 5000 & 6000 lbs. Yes, parts are available. It is a little bit larger than what is considered a Utility tractor. It is more like a Row Crop. Yes, it will be able to handle a front loader. Some of manufacturers of loaders made an auxillary hydraulic system for the Fiats. It's a separate system run off the front of the engine or off the PTO. Yes, it as least as good all the way around, as the American Olivers, and superior in some ways. Lugging ability, starting and durability are some of their strong points. They look like American Olivers. Larry
Re(4): 1465
IP: 207.238.246.163 Posted on May 5, 2002 at 08:54:11 PM by Kevin Roberts
Larry, Thanks for your patience and helpful info.You provide a true service . If everything goes well You'll probably here from me again.Thanks again, Kevin Roberts
Re(5): 1465
IP: 198.81.17.22 Posted on May 7, 2002 at 03:46:40 PM by Mel
Kevin, Like you I just purchased my first 1465 at an auction. With front loader and remotes for 2500.00. I will have to do some hydrolic work but found out the tractor is a 1974 and has 70hp. Hope this helps.
Re(6): 1465
IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on May 11, 2002 at 10:15:07 PM by Larry Harsin
If that 1465 is in decent shape, you got a bargin!!! Good for you! Larry
770 Head
IP: 12.89.0.186 Posted on May 1, 2002 at 07:23:13 PM by John
Larry, had you ever heard of someone shaving thier cyl head to get more power??? is it worth the trouble??? Thanks
Re(1): 770 Head
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 06:41:30 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I have. It's not going to do a whole lot of good. If you have a good machine shop, they will know how far to go with it. I wouldn't exceed what they reccommend. Larry
Re(2): 770 Head
IP: 12.89.0.80 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 03:44:33 PM by John
Larry, would big valves help more??? Just looking for that few extra HP. Thanks.
Re(3): 770 Head
IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 11:06:39 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, I think larger valves might help. Opening up ports, polishing to get more air into it. Maybe a larger carburator. More piston displacement will help. It depends on how much money you are willing to spend. I'm not into doing this kind of engine work, but I've heard some fantastic results with these engines. Larry
Re(4): 770 Head
IP: 12.89.4.107 Posted on May 3, 2002 at 08:46:01 PM by John
Thanks for the advice Larry, I'll let you know how I make out. John
Oliver 1365
IP: 209.74.220.111 Posted on May 1, 2002 at 01:05:24 PM by Chuck Bryan
Hello I have had an Oliver 1365 for several years. It is a great tractor with the exception of the hydraulic system. Is there a way to improve the pressure or make it more reactive? Any similiar complaints?
Re(1): Oliver 1365
IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 06:39:21 AM by Larry Harsin
I'm really not very acquainted with the hydraulic system on a 1365. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may be able to help you. Larry
1955 Term Project
IP: 65.129.40.131 Posted on April 30, 2002 at 05:20:09 PM by Jed Vail
Larry, My father and I are Oliver collectors and fans. For a college Power and Machinery class I chose to do a report on my fathers' 1955. I was hoping that you could guide me to a maintenance and lubrication schedule that is required for the report. We do not have an owners manual yet so I was hoping to find something online.
Re(1): 1955 Term Project
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 30, 2002 at 09:06:41 PM by Larry Harsin
You need to get an Operator's Manual and get your maintenance schedule from that. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net She will get it to you right away. Larry
Oliver 55 what are the set up specs to do the points and timing
IP: 206.172.211.116 Posted on April 30, 2002 at 07:13:27 AM by stewart
They havent been done in 20 years.Thanks in advance.
Re(1): Oliver 55 what are the set up specs to do the points and timing
IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 30, 2002 at 09:03:26 PM by Larry Harsin
The points should be gapped at .022. At slow idle, timing should be somewhere around Top Dead Center. At full throttle, the timing light should show IGN on the flywheel. You may have to use some white chalk on the flywheel marks so you can see them with the timing light. Larry
Oliver OC-96
IP: 24.50.159.115 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 09:17:07 PM by Paul Coleman
after rebuilding the engine in my OC-96 I cant get fuel do you know anyone that has information on the roosamaster pumps used on the Hercules DD-198 engines used in these machines
Re(1): Oliver OC-96
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 10:11:17 PM by Larry Harsin
The man to talk to is Landis Zimmerman. Phone: 717-738-2573 He has email: zoc@att.net but I think it might be better to call him about this. Larry
550 rocker shafts
IP: 63.114.86.236 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 06:25:35 PM by shane
Larry,my rocker shafts on a 550 are leaking.is this an expensive major job?thanks,Shane
Re(1): 550 rocker shafts
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 10:08:09 PM by Larry Harsin
After looking at the Shop Manual, it appears that the whole unit would have to be disassembled to replace the seals. Unless they are leaking quite badly, I don't think I would do it. You should check the breather located under the seat and make sure it is not plugged. It may be causing the leakage of the seals. Larry
oliver 66 wont run
IP: 66.218.7.107 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 12:12:31 AM by Darryl J. Polak
oliver 66 electric system new 12v rebuilt carb ajusted valves read repair manuel it says tractor has a early spark ign. was not converted by me I just in stalled new was a 6v system and is it possible for the timing to go outthanks for any help
Re(1): oliver 66 wont run
IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 12:35:03 AM by Larry Harsin
Check and see if you have spark and see if it is getting fuel before you start messing with the timing. Larry
Re(2): oliver 66 wont run
IP: 66.218.8.110 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 06:53:24 PM by Darryl J. Polak
SORRY should have mention these before it does have both tractor will about one minute struggles to idle and then shuts off able to start up again and shuts
Re(3): oliver 66 wont run
IP: 12.78.141.158 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 08:43:09 PM by Mike B
Sounds like possible fuel starvation. Check the fuel filter or the line for signs of rust or clogging. Problem may also be ignition related such as a faulty coil or condenser or a short or poor ground. Doubt that it's timing or it wouldn't light off. It would burp and belch but not run.
Re(3): oliver 66 wont run
IP: 12.78.141.158 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 08:54:41 PM by Mike B
Just re-read your symptoms. I'm not that familiar with the 66 set up. But, if it is conventional fuel/ignition, as I said in the other message, make sure that you are getting plenty of fuel (since carb was rebuilt, maybe something is way out of adjustment). A shot of starting ether into the intake when it wants to stall might give you a clue if it briefly perks back up. Failing that, maybe the voltage increase is overloading the ballast resistor in/on the coil. Check the points, if they are burned it is likely the coil is mismatched, or the condenser is cooked, or both. Check too that the battery (ignition switch) goes to the + post on the coil, and the primary wire from the points goes to the -. Sometimes these get accidentally switched during rebuilds. Larry might have some other ideas. Good luck.
Cylinder Order
IP: 12.89.146.78 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 09:21:03 AM by Mike B
Larry: Which is the #1 cylinder on a 550 gas, 4-cyl engine? Is it the one closest to the radiator or closest to the cowl. I can't find any literature with specific reference and I've gotten different answers from local "experts". Thanks.
Re(1): Cylinder Order
IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 12:30:35 AM by Larry Harsin
The #1 cylinder is the one closest to the radiator. Larry
Oliver 55
IP: 152.163.201.211 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 11:28:26 PM by John
I'm helping a friend liquidate his late father's estate which includes (among many other makes) a restored Oliver Super 55 serial 12774518. Everything is new right down to the tires. The tractor is as near new condition as any I have ever seen. Can anyone give me an approximate value for this rig? Thanx...JQ
Re(1): Oliver 55
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 05:36:13 AM by Larry Harsin
Different areas of the country tend to have a little difference in the prices. In our area that tractor would be worth approx. $5000. Larry
770 CARB
IP: 12.89.1.248 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 05:30:41 PM by John
Larry, I pull a 770 gas. The engine has some work done to it (dome pistons, etc...). I have the origional carb on it A MS tsx755. What can I get a carb off of that would be bigger and still bolt up??? Thanks
Re(1): 770 CARB
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 06:47:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Try a tsx 610 off of a S88. Or, you could take the bowl off the carb and remove the load jet that lets the fuel down into the adjustable metering valve. See if this helps. Larry
Re(2): 770 CARB
IP: 12.89.0.206 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 08:24:52 PM by John
Thanks for the help. John
what model
IP: 64.12.104.23 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 04:35:41 PM by nat
i recently purchased a oliver at a local aution. the sides have been painted but i can read 1800 on it. after the auction several "experts" came around to identify it. can you help. the specification # is 18-1210. the serial # is 92 817-886. any help would be appreciated.
Re(1): what model
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 06:38:43 PM by Larry Harsin
It is a 1960 1800A. This is the first series of 1800's built. Larry
Re(2): what model
IP: 205.188.197.159 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 07:58:43 PM by nat
thanks for the information. i bought this to use with a haybine. do you know of any common problems i should watch for. i have heard that these have weak cranks? do you know the hp rating. it is a 6 cyl diesel. thanks for the help. this is a great website.
Re(3): what model
IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 05:32:48 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1800 A is about 70 hp. I wouldn't argue when they say they have weak cranks, but I think if a person replaced the bearings before they get too bad you wouldn't have troubles. Those engines are getting old and have done a LOT of work. We enjoy the website also. Larry
Wico mag dirty points
IP: 66.81.34.71 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 12:05:10 AM by Pat T.
Larry, every once in a while the engine will start and run just a couple of seconds or more then quit. I run a cloth or business card through the points to clean them and that fixes the problem. How are the points getting dirty? Could it be oil coming through the camlobe shaft or what?
Re(1): Wico mag dirty points
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 06:36:43 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it could be oil coming through. Check your crank case breather and make sure it is not plugged. Larry
Oliver 770
IP: 216.178.86.177 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 12:01:29 AM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I've been noticing that there appears to be oil seeping out past two of my sparkplugs. It doesn't seem to smoke really bad though so I'm not sure what might be causing this. Would you know what this might be an indication of? Thank you for your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 06:34:22 PM by Larry Harsin
Make sure your thermostat is working to keep the engine at the proper operating temperature. Be sure there are gaskets on the 2 spark plugs that are leaking. Larry
Specs on a 770
IP: 64.12.107.42 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 02:18:57 AM by John
Larry, I'm thinking of purchasing a 1960 770 Row Crop with an adjustable wide front end. This tractor is fairly rough condition. I would like to know what the tractors weight and horse power ratings are. This tractor has live pto and hydraulics, no power steering. The rear tires are 13.6x38 and I'm wondering if this tractor should have larger tires. I pulled this tractor at a tractor pull today and it ran out of traction long befor it ran out of power.
Re(1): Specs on a 770
IP: 209.163.7.36 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 07:14:10 AM by Larry Harsin
Shipping weight was approx. 4500 lbs when they were built. The 770 should have 50 horse on the belt and around 43 on the drawbar. Most of them were equipped with the tires that you have, however, they can be equipped with larger tires. Larry
Installing cab kit in ROPS cab
IP: 152.163.207.193 Posted on April 26, 2002 at 11:27:49 PM by Bob
Larry, I'm trying to install a cab kit in a ROPS cab on a 1955. The old cab kit was almost completely gone when I bought it in 1997. Only part of the vinyl covering around the seat is still there. I have purchased a kit from FCI in Ill., but the instructions are lacking in details for me. What order of steps do I follow in doing this job? I have cleaned most of the cab and have done a trial run with the left and right pieces. They seem to have gaps close to the side windows and at the bottom inside corners. Is this normal? Also, is it necessary to loosen and raise the top of the cab to install the headliner? The old piece under the seat was cut out around the seat assembly, but I have been told to only punch 4 holes for the seat attaching bolts to reinstall the seat. I do know of any other ROPS cab in my area, so I don't know what it should look like when it is done right. Also, must the slotted plate that has the hyd and pto levers be removed and "refoam sealed" before or after the right side kit piece is installed? Lastly, do I need to renew the front headliner (apparently inside the console) to seal air leaks from the AC and heater? Would half inch gray foam work? Should the floor mat be in or out when installing the side pieces? Thanks for your help.
Re(1): Installing cab kit in ROPS cab
IP: 209.163.7.27 Posted on April 27, 2002 at 06:41:39 AM by Larry Harsin
I havn't put in one of those kits. I have put in a new headliner and I did it without removing the top, however you might get a better job if you did remove it. I believe I'd try to make the headliner all one piece. As far as the rest of the cab, I don't know. It is a lot of work. Larry
oliver 55 Starter
IP: 12.111.49.67 Posted on April 26, 2002 at 03:31:16 PM by Frank
I have an oliver 55 with a delco remy starter. The starter has a broken bendix spring. The problem is I am doubting that this is the original starter. Parts people are not finding a Oliver 55 part number for this spring. This is the coil spring between the drive gear and the starter. I have a broken spring and sleeve. Any ideas?
Re(1): oliver 55 Starter
IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on April 26, 2002 at 08:40:24 PM by Larry Harsin
If your sleeve is broken too, you will have to get a new bendix drive. Larry
Re(2): oliver 55 Starter
IP: 209.176.252.67 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 05:48:40 PM by Frank
The bendix drive is my problem (I think) I ordered a new starter drive and I recieved a new bendix drive. There was no spring or sleeve with it. Just the drive was in the box. The parts guy said he was aware of 8N's using the big bendix springs, but not olivers. Is this a case of a retrofit starter on this ollie 55?
Re(3): oliver 55 Starter
IP: 208.10.124.92 Posted on April 28, 2002 at 08:03:18 PM by Larry from Maryland
The bendix starter was the original starter on the s55 gas.It does have a large bendix spring in it.Later models used starter with an electric selonid on top so you could start it with out useing your foot to push the pedal.You need to take back the part you have and ask for the oldest parts man they have.The springs are still being made and sold.
Re(4): oliver 55 Starter
IP: 12.111.49.67 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 07:28:54 AM by Frank
Thanks. Just knowing that this is an Oliver starter makes thing much easier. If I know what I have, I can get parts. Up until now, I was starting to think I was in the dark. Thanks again. Frank Root
Foot Pedal
IP: 209.62.162.124 Posted on May 2, 2002 at 04:24:15 PM by Kevin
You have enlightened me as to why I have a foot Pedal that goes nowhere. My Starter has the solonoid. Did Oliver continue to install the foot pedal to nowhere through out the run or has mine been upgraded? Thanx.
Oliver 1755 Making bad grinding noise in rear-end
IP: 207.144.208.219 Posted on April 25, 2002 at 07:31:58 PM by Bill Sisson
Dear Larry, Appreciate your website so much. Not too many people know what an Oliver is anymore, much less know what to do with them. Anyways, I just bought a '72 Oliver 1755. Don't know a lot about it. One thing seems troubling is this terrible grinding noise in the rear end. Don't notice it so much in low range, just in the higher gears. It doesn't make this noise when going down hill, only when climbing or straight on with a load. Any advice or insight would be much appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver 1755 Making bad grinding noise in rear-end
IP: 209.163.7.58 Posted on April 25, 2002 at 09:13:19 PM by Larry Harsin
The first thing I would do is check the transmission oil levels. Refer to your Operator's Manual to find out where to check this. There is a test plug on the back of your tractor. Use 80 - 90 transmission grease. After you have checked the level, you should test to see if the lube circuit is working on the transmission. There is a filter above the left brake. Loosen that filter with the tractor running and see if oil comes out after the filter is loosened to varify that that system is working. If that lube system is not working, that is the cause of the grinding noises. I hope this isn't the case, as that would be bad news. If there is a lubrication problem in the rear end, it will probably have to go to your AGCO Dealer. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1755 Making bad grinding noise in rear-end
IP: 208.10.124.121 Posted on April 26, 2002 at 11:41:35 AM by Larry from Maryland
I would allso check for loose wheel bolts and axel clamps.
Re(3): Oliver 1755 Making bad grinding noise in rear-end
IP: 207.144.208.219 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 07:52:23 PM by Bill Sisson
Larry, Thanks for the advice. I think things look pretty serious, but I not sure where to go from here, short of dropping it and a lot of $$$$ off at the AGCO dealer. I checked the lube oil and it was low. I then decided to drain it and put fresh oil back in it. When I removed the drain plug I found some "chunky" oil. The worst was a 1 inch piece of metal closely resembling the spline from a gear. Do you think I can inspect the extent of the damage by removing the PTO cover ?
Oliver 1955
IP: 168.159.80.65 Posted on April 24, 2002 at 02:40:54 PM by Kris
My brother has an Oliver 1955 with a wide front. He has been looking for a narrow front for it. Are they hard to find?? He has not been able to find one. Also The tractor has the 310 turbo diesel in it and he wants to get more power from it. What is teh best way to do that?? Is it best to turn up the pump or boost. Also need instructions on how to do that. Any help is appreciated Kris
Re(1): Oliver 1955
IP: 209.163.7.62 Posted on April 24, 2002 at 07:33:18 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have a narrow front for it. Check with a salvage yard or Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. The same front that fits at 1850 or an 1855 will fit it so it shouldn't be too tough to find one. You could also contact Worthington Tractor Salvage at 800-533-5304. They have locations all over the U.S. and should be able to find one for you. I really don't reccommend turning the engine up in that 310 diesel. Before you do anything to the pump, put it on a dyno and check it out. At 105 horsepower, that is about the max for that engine to survive. You could back out that torque screw that is on the back of the pump about a half turn at a time while you have it on the dyno. I would not reccommend going above 115 horsepower! I don't reccommend above 105 h.p. really. Larry
Oliver 770 HC compression
IP: 216.178.91.5 Posted on April 22, 2002 at 10:42:41 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. If I take a compression test on my cylinders what should I consider good readings and what would be considered bad readings? I don't see any information in my books relating to this. Thank you once again for everything, Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 HC compression
IP: 209.163.7.80 Posted on April 23, 2002 at 05:51:50 AM by Larry Harsin
Probably, a range of 125 to 150 would be acceptable readings, but I am more concerned about the cylinders being about the same. I would like to have them show readings that are no more than 25 lbs. variation across the whole engine. Larry
Oliver 770 HC ignition timing
IP: 216.178.91.5 Posted on April 22, 2002 at 10:38:40 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. Could you please tell me the proper setting for the ignition timing? I have three different books telling me three different things. I have it set at 25 degrees now, but seems to run smoother when set higher. Thank you, Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 HC ignition timing
IP: 209.163.7.80 Posted on April 23, 2002 at 05:48:44 AM by Larry Harsin
25 degrees at full throtle should be pretty close. I wouldn't want to advance it any more than that. At faster speeds it may sound smoother, but when you put the engine under load, you may have detonation problems which can burn valves. Larry
Oliver 770 HC coil
IP: 216.178.91.5 Posted on April 22, 2002 at 10:35:15 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. Is there any way I can test or check for symptoms of a faulty coil? Thank you, Mike Renner
Re(1): Oliver 770 HC coil
IP: 209.163.7.80 Posted on April 23, 2002 at 05:44:43 AM by Larry Harsin
There are such things as coil testers. I don't have one, however. I usually replace the coil with a different one and see if that is the problem. Larry
950
IP: 161.184.192.152 Posted on April 19, 2002 at 05:20:07 PM by Gil
I recently asked you if there was a 950 oliver built, and I got your reply, you said, that the 950 was the 6-cyl. version of the 990, Have you ever seen a 950 with a 3-cyl. GM. in it?
Re(1): 950
IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on April 19, 2002 at 10:44:39 PM by Larry Harsin
No, but the 950 and the 990 are basically the same tractor with different engines and different frames to accommodate the engines. The 950 has the 6 cylinder and the 990 has the 3 cylinder. Larry
1265 Oliver
IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 10:22:29 PM by L Kruse
I found a 1265 Oliver diesel that is offered for sale. It has not run for several years. Are there any major problems with this model of tractor that one needs to be aware of? Are parts available? I know it has a Fiat engine. Is it a tractor worth putting into a collection?
Re(1): 1265 Oliver
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on April 18, 2002 at 06:35:18 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1265 was a good tractor and parts are available at an AGCO Dealer. I don't know of any particular problems. I would say it is worth putting into your collection. Larry
Re(2): 1265 Oliver
IP: 66.144.8.175 Posted on April 23, 2002 at 11:06:36 AM by Ed Winkle
My mother and father purchased one new. We still have it with the loader on it. I think we have 7000 hours on it with good power still. The clutch has been the biggest problem with it, I think we are on our third. The plates must be set just so, as said in the Oliver shop manual. It is a very fuel efficient tractor and tough. Ed Winkle www.erinet.com/hymark HyMark Consulting
Super 55 loader cylinders
IP: 65.25.122.84 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 09:41:14 PM by Mike
I was looking at a Super 55 that has a front end loader setup that looks rough. I don't know if this setup is home made or not but it's been used very hard and has a couple of the pivot holes pulled open on the inner end near the steering wheel.The rams on the cylinders have been in the out position for years and are really rusty. Is there a way to have the surface finish restored and at what cost? Also, is there a picture anywhere of what an original front end loader setup looks like? Thank you.
Re(1): Super 55 loader cylinders
IP: 63.175.91.20 Posted on April 29, 2002 at 11:34:29 PM by ShepFL
Hey Mike - This is ShepFL. I know of a loader sitting in MN. The loader originally came off the Mall of America S55. Holler out there on the Oliver forum of www.ytmag.com Ask for Randy Gesch of MN. ytmag
Re(1): Super 55 loader cylinders
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on April 18, 2002 at 06:32:10 AM by Larry Harsin
Take it to a welding shop and have the pivot holes built up and resized. I would suggest to take emery cloth and get the rust off of those piston rods on the cylinders before you ever try to use it. It just may work - you may have to put new seals in it also. Occasionally, you can find a used loader in good condition at a fairly reasonable cost. You could also replace the cylinders. There are lots of different manufacturers of loaders to fit those tractors so I don't know about a picture to help you. Larry
Re(2): Super 55 loader cylinders
IP: 209.152.105.19 Posted on April 21, 2002 at 10:20:37 PM by Ryan
I don't know if there is one, but a good source for pictures would be ytmag.com, they have pictures of just about everything there. Ryan
1655 D
IP: 209.143.29.212 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 07:34:56 PM by Wayne Hess
Hi Larry: My 1655 D Idle's Ragged. Anything Below 1000 RPM It will lope,above 1000 RPM it will smooth right out. The man I bought it from said it has always done this. However, aftyer shutting it down this afternoon, it would'nt start again . Acted like it was'nt getting a drop of fuel.Checked everything up to the injection pump and it seems ok. Took pressure line off number one injector and it just kind of spits. I'm ready to pull the pump unless you have an Idea.
Re(1): 1655 D
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on April 18, 2002 at 06:21:16 AM by Larry Harsin
I think that is what needs to be done. It probably needs to have the pump repaired. Larry
4 cylinder Oliver Tractor
IP: 216.42.67.35 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 12:53:28 AM by mike warren
I recently purchased a 4 cylinder overhead valve Oliver Tractor. It has a bucket on the front. I was told it was an Oliver 55. Does this mean the year or model or what? How can I determine the model? There is a tag on the dash, but it is worn and unreadable. The PTO seems to slip. I'd like to find a manual and parts to repair this. Thanks for your assistance.
Re(1): 4 cylinder Oliver Tractor
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on April 18, 2002 at 06:18:54 AM by Larry Harsin
The model is Super 55 and was built from 1954 thru 1958. There should be a tag on the center section by your feet that would have some information on it. (Down there behind the clutch housing). You can get an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual and/or a Parts Book, contact Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net and order them. Parts are readily available at any AGCO Dealer. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 can help you if you don't have a local dealer. Larry
Super 55 backhoe
IP: 146.114.111.14 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 11:17:53 AM by Dennis Goodenow
I am looking to buy a backhoe attachment for my 1957 Super 55 gas tractor. The unit I am looking at weights about 1500 pounds, and came off a IH tractor the had about 50 horse power. How much weight can my Super 55 three point hitch carry, and do you think I have the horse power to power this backhoe. Thanks, you are great.
Re(1): Super 55 backhoe
IP: 209.163.7.44 Posted on April 18, 2002 at 06:09:55 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it is a little bit more hoe than your tractor could handle. That hoe weighs almost half as much as your tractor. I think it would be a little short on horse power too. Larry
770 Fuel Gauge
IP: 216.178.86.168 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 10:42:05 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I have a problem with my fuel gauge where even if the tank is full it won't read above 1/4 tank. Do you have any idea what may be causing this? Thank you again for all of your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): 770 Fuel Gauge
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 06:21:08 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing to check is your float assembly in the tank. Disconnect the wire from the sender on the tank. Turn the ignition switch on and ground that wire. The gauge should read "Full". If the gauge reads "Full", the trouble is in the sending unit in the tank. It might possibly be that the float is full of gas and it can be repaired or soddered. However, if the gauge in the dash does not read "Full" when grounded, it is at fault. Larry
77 rebore kit
IP: 64.196.142.30 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 08:10:46 PM by savin sundstrom
can you tell me why a 3 3/4 overbore kit will not fit in my super 77
Re(1): 77 rebore kit
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 06:16:16 AM by Larry Harsin
A 3 3/4 is a little big for a S77. It probably wasn't designed for that engine. My first thought is that it is designed for an 88 block. My preference would be a 3 5/8 overbore kit for a S77. Larry
88 hydraulics
IP: 159.238.6.56 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 05:19:01 PM by chuck
Larry: Thank You for the previous answer. To remove the pump and send to you for rebuild sounds like good idea to me. Couple questions. 1. To remove pump unit. I guess from books, general idea is remove hydraulic unit housing. Pull power take-off shaft and pull out pump. What things to worry about. Can I re-install power take-off shaft and use tractor while pump is out for re-build. THank You for the help CHuck
Re(1): 88 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 06:11:12 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, that is the way to remove it. No, you can't re-install the power take-off shaft and use the tractor. If you are in a hurry, I can send you a reconditioned pump in exchange for your pump, to keep you going. If you would like to do this, email me. Larry
power steering
IP: 159.238.6.56 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 05:04:18 PM by chuck
Larry: Thank you for the previous answer. Did you determine if you had a used Char Lynn power steering system? How is the Char Lyn pump driven? How does the unit connect to steering? Thank You CHuck
Re(1): power steering
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 06:05:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Hi Chuck! Sorry, we didn't get back to you sooner(busy weekend). Yes, I have a Char Lynn power steering coming and I will know more about what they are when they get here in a couple of days. The Char-Lynn is driven by a belt from the front crankshaft pulley. The pump mounts on the thermostat housing and sits above the generator. The torque unit sits near the clutch housing beneath the oil filter. The steering shaft is cut and the torque motor installed at this point. Larry
550 oliver
IP: 63.114.86.167 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 01:46:48 PM by Andy
Larry,im looking at a 1974 550 gas.are these good reliable tractors?are parts available and how much should an average one be worth?im going to use it brushhogging fields.thanks,Andy
Re(1): 550 oliver
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 05:57:30 AM by Larry Harsin
Excellent choice!!!! Parts availability is good. This will be a safe tractor to use for mowing pastures, do to it's low center of gravity. A nice 550, in our area, is worth $4750 - $5500, if it is in really good shape. This means good rubber and power steering. Larry
Re(1): 550 oliver
IP: 63.65.244.222 Posted on April 19, 2002 at 12:05:46 AM by Greg S.
I bought a non-running 1961 550 w/ loader for $300 (got real lucky). McFarlane's in WI had the same running machine for &6500. My tractor was pretty rough. I'm completely restoring it. Piston, rings, sleeves, bearings, PTO, etc. Down to the metal throughout, primed and painted...inside and out. Have about $3,000 into it so far and beyond new hydraulic hoses and wheel clean-up I won't many other expenses. Most pricey stuff so far is the emblems, decals, grommets, etc. Not much bang for the buck there. I caved on most of that stuff, but the real workin' stuff that is expensive is the PTO and hydraulics. PTO clutch pack will run $200 for all the discs. The PTO hubs will exceed $300 ea. so be real careful when inside. Traction clutch about $60.
Oil Additive
IP: 137.128.100.253 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 11:56:48 AM by Terry Hoist
The manual for my Oliver 550 (gas) calls for SAE10w-30 with an oil additive (102082-A)for the transmission, and SAE 30W plus the additive for the hydraulic system. Is the additive still available, or is there a better lubricant for them?
Re(1): Oil Additive
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 05:51:26 AM by Larry Harsin
As far as I know, that additive is not available any more. You could use 80 - 90 transmission oil. I would prefer to use 10w - 30 in the hydraulic. Larry
fuel in oil
IP: 12.13.248.12 Posted on April 16, 2002 at 08:05:16 AM by Pete in Ks
Hi Larry,Reciently the seals in my Roso-master pump went bad and let fuel by into crankcase. 1973 1655 w/5300 hrs. on pump. I purchased new sleeve and umbrella seals and replaced them. All seamed fine till I checked oil 2 days later and there was fuel in oil again.I figured I damaged one of the seals on installation so I pulled pump again and replaced seals. I took special care replacing pump. I started tractor and it run fine. Now two days later I have fuel in oil again. Is it possable I was given the wrong seals? Appearance wise they looked right. I might add the seals are leaking with the tractor not running. Anything I'm overlooking?
Re(1): fuel in oil
IP: 209.163.7.51 Posted on April 17, 2002 at 05:47:30 AM by Larry Harsin
Does it have a transfer pump on the right side of the engine? It might be leaking at that point. The diaphram might be ruptured or cracked. Anything's possible, but it sounds like the seals on the pump should be o.k. by now. Larry
1855D noise
larry... i was going down the road the other day when my 1855 began making a strange noise. the tractor was in 6th gear, overdrive ( switching to under made no differance) and did not seem to loose power or change rpm. the noise can be best described like an intermitant chain slap or grinding. this is the third time i've heard the noise. it comes and goes. it seems to occur only at higher speeds. any ideas. is it safe to run the machine? thanks.
Re(1): 1855D noise
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on April 15, 2002 at 10:43:16 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think I'd keep running it. I'd try to find out what is going on. I'd check the drive train. Check the chain coupler between the transmission and the hydraul. Larry
770
IP: 216.134.9.240 Posted on April 15, 2002 at 08:54:37 AM by kraig mcmillan
Larry, how much tow-in do I need in order for the tractor to turn properly? What is the procedure for setting the tow-in? And, how big of a disc plow should a 770 pull? Thanks for all your help! Kraig
Re(1): 770
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on April 15, 2002 at 01:06:45 PM by Larry Harsin
A quarter to a half inch should do it. Use a tape measure and measure on the inside of the wheels at the same relative point on the front of the wheels and back of the wheels to see that they measure the same. (making the wheels straight with each other.) I would think a 770 would pull at least 4 discs on your disc plow. I don't know really as we don't use disc plows here and I don't know anything about them. Larry
Rich 550
IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on April 15, 2002 at 05:45:12 AM by Peter
I have a 550 that runs smooth at an idle and high rpm's, but blows carbon from the exhaust when I first start it. When I pulled the plugs they were black. I know of several other 550's that seem to be the same. Will the plugs clean up under load or is the carb set too rich? Thanks Peter
Re(1): Rich 550
IP: 209.163.7.52 Posted on April 15, 2002 at 01:00:54 PM by Larry Harsin
I think maybe you should adjust your carb down a little if you can. Since they took the lead out of the fuel, these engines don't run like they used to. Get it set a little leaner and see how you get along. Larry
vent smoke
IP: 64.12.106.44 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 08:46:26 PM by Drew
Larry we just got a 770 gas a few weeks ago and are using it on our mixer wagon for two feedings aday, a total running time of one hour. When under a load she smokes (blue) like a train out the valve cover vent and less when idleing, a half quart of oil a week, but does not smoke at all out the exhaust.I know she needs help but just didn't understand why its not burning any out the top. Thanks for any info.
Re(1): vent smoke
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 10:27:49 PM by Larry Harsin
It just has enough wear that it is starting to take some oil. Probably most of the wear is in the top piston ring and is letting some compression get into the crankcase instead of the exhaust. When a 770 starts putting out blue smoke, it is really sick. If you tear it down, check those top piston rings for wear and if they have more than .004 wear in the top ring groove, you'll have to cut the groove for an oversized ring or put in new sleeves and pistons. Larry
950
IP: 161.184.178.45 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 07:07:22 PM by Gil
I was wondering if there was a Oliver 950 built? You don't seem to see them often. Are they rare?, would apreciate any info. Thanks.
Re(1): 950
IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 10:20:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. The 950 is the 6 cylinder version of the 990. I can't say how many were built as they are counted in with 990's and the 995. They were built from 1958 thru 1961. They all used the same essential chassis. The 950 delivered 50 drawbar horsepower. It weighed just over 10,000 lbs bareweight. The 950 gas sold for $5475 and the diesel sold for approx. $6325. This information is from C.H. Wendel's book, "Oliver Hart-Parr". Larry
70 R C Gear ratio
IP: 67.241.30.6 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 10:45:28 AM by Ken
I have changed the rear end on a 70 RC I replaced a 1941 6 speed with a 1937 4 speed the gears in the tran. are the same but the ring gear is diff. what is the diff in the speeds ? thanks Ken
Re(1): 70 R C Gear ratio
IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 12:32:22 AM by Larry Harsin
It has to be figured out by counting the teeth on the ring gear and the bevel pinion gear. Then go to the parts book or an Operator's Manual that has the specs in it to get the difference. The 4 speed was built for the steel wheeled tractors that had less speed. Larry
engine knock
IP: 216.95.136.80 Posted on April 13, 2002 at 06:00:54 PM by Richard Turner
I just had the head of my 66 gas tractor overhauled. When I put it back together it really knocks. Sounds like a desiel.I retarded then advanced the time using the distributor. Didn't help.Before I did the head there was a slight knock but nothing like it is now. What can you suggest?
Re(1): engine knock
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 05:42:11 AM by Larry Harsin
If that tractor has over sized pistons, you may have the wrong size head gasket. A piston may be touching the head gasket. Otherwise, you will have to pull the oil pan and start checking for loose bearings or a loose wrist pin bushing. Larry
1750
IP: 12.154.3.197 Posted on April 13, 2002 at 04:18:46 PM by Ken Goodall
Larry, I recently purchased an Oliver 1750 with a Dual 3150 quick tach high lift loader on it. I have noticed that lock pin holes on center member on the front end are wobbled out or oblonged about 1/2" and that the wheels rock back and forth. I was wondering if there is any type of upgrade or conversion to beef up the front end so this will not happen again. Also is there an upgrade or fix for the poor power steering on this tractor or is it a case of to much loader for the front end of this tractor. Lastly the front tires turn far to sharply almost to the point that they are at a 90 degree angle to the rear wheels. Your thoughts and thanks Ken Goodall
Re(1): 1750
IP: 209.163.7.13 Posted on April 14, 2002 at 05:38:38 AM by Larry Harsin
I understand exactly what you are talking about. It sounds like your tractor has carried a loader for quite some time. The best way, that I know, to overcome your problems, would be to install a front end from a 2255 under this tractor. Your loader seems to be a bit much for your wide front. There have been 2255's in our area parted out and there may be one in a salvage yard. I don't know of a fix for the poor power steering. I do think it is a case of too much loader for your front end. The stops in the spindles in the front end get worn and then the tires turn too far. It sounds like your front end is worn out and I would replace it. Larry
oliver decals
IP: 205.188.193.53 Posted on April 12, 2002 at 10:44:34 PM by Vernon Smith
Larry, awhile back there was a post about small decals put on different model tractors.There was a phone number and the person that had them was Jim Vickroy.The phone number wont go through that was posted,do you have a different number or another way to get ahold of Jim? Im in the middle of 3 restoration projects of my own,a 770 diesel,a 1955 diesel and a 2150 diesel.If you have a pair of good steering cylinders for the 2150 or even just a pair of good rods with out the cylinder Id be intrested. Thanks!
Re(1): oliver decals
IP: 209.163.7.74 Posted on April 13, 2002 at 06:29:49 AM by Larry Harsin
Upon checking, we wonder if the Area Code has been changed. We have found 2 Area Codes listed for him and aren't sure which one is the new one. One of them is 614 and the other is 740. His address is: Jim Vickroy 4535 Delmont Rd. Lancaster OH 43130. We just bought a truck load of parts and I'm not through sorting. If I find the steering cylinders for a 2150, I'll let you know. Right now I don't have them. Larry
oliver 88 clutch
IP: 65.166.115.17 Posted on April 11, 2002 at 09:55:57 PM by Jim Catlin
how do you change the clutch in an oliver 88? also where to buy parts? thank you.
Re(1): oliver 88 clutch
IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on April 11, 2002 at 10:23:43 PM by Larry Harsin
First, take the PTO drive shaft out. You do this by removing the 3/8 cap screws behind the clutch assembly. Then simply remove the clutch assembly and the PTO drive shaft comes along with it. You'll have to remove the hood, the fuel tank & the battery. Then remove the 4 bolts that secure the dash to the frame. You'll have to disconnect the light wires and the wires for the hydraulic. You'll have to remove the throttle linkage and the control lever for the belt pulley if you have a belt pulley. And unbolt the steering shaft by the clutch housing. Then simply lay the dash up on the engine and secure it so it won't fall off and unbolt the clutch drive shaft coupling and slide it forward. If you have a belt pulley assembly, you will have one 5/8 bolt and 5 or 6 3/8 bolts to remove before you can remove the belt pulley drive assembly. Then remove the starter & the front dust cover on the bell housing. Then there will be 4 more bolts that hold that clutch housing on. Then you should be able to pull the drive shaft back a little way and remove the clutch housing. Email me what you need, I may have the parts. Larry
88 standard
IP: 209.7.171.66 Posted on April 11, 2002 at 10:05:45 AM by James A. Kurth
sorry, i got it backwards, it was an 88 standard diesel and a 66 gas that i needed the values for. neither one is fully restored, but they're both in good working order
Re(1): 88 standard
IP: 209.163.7.60 Posted on April 11, 2002 at 10:11:49 PM by Larry Harsin
The 88 Standard Diesel will be about the same price as the gas. The 66 Gas has about half as much value when restored as the diesel. Larry
70 RC Valves
IP: 24.48.17.130 Posted on April 8, 2002 at 08:51:06 AM by Dan Supplee
I read somewhere that Pontiac valves will work in a late Oliver 70 head. Do you have any info on what year and engine model these valves were from if this true. Thanks, Dan
Re(1): 70 RC Valves
IP: 209.163.7.65 Posted on April 8, 2002 at 12:54:50 AM by Larry Harsin
I wasn't aware that Pontiac valves would work, so I don't know. Larry
Hard to Start HG-42
IP: 64.252.214.41 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 08:20:09 PM by Saint
I recently purchased a oliver cletrac HG -42.Love it ! One problem is in starting it. Brand new batt.but still tough getting it to really crank over seems you just have to catch it atjust the right spot in the stroke . Haven't had much experience with 6 volts.Have ordered manuals, just trying to fix some things while waiting
Re(1): Hard to Start HG-42
IP: 209.163.7.12 Posted on April 5, 2002 at 06:17:14 AM by Larry Harsin
Make sure your battery cables are all good and make sure your starter is good. Take it and have it reconditioned. It may need to have new field coils. You may need a more powerful battery, also. Larry
Re(2): Hard to Start HG-42
IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on May 10, 2002 at 10:24:21 AM by polk crawler
Try an 8V battery; it will spin starter faster and will work OK in a 6V system; I have an OC3 using an 8V battery. However,Larry's advice about having the starter rebuilt makes sense, had to do so with mine; cost around $100 but mech said it needed it. Good Luck PC
Row Crop 70 seat
IP: 24.48.17.130 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 11:08:06 AM by Dan Supplee
On my 46 row crop 70 I have a seat with a spring underneath it and a shock absorber on the back. Is this a Monroe-matic seat and where can I get bushings and a seat for it. Thanks, Dan
Re(1): Row Crop 70 seat
IP: 209.163.7.12 Posted on April 5, 2002 at 06:13:37 AM by Anonymous
Your Case-IH Dealer will have the parts. Some of the Tractor Supply Catalogs also have parts for that seat, like Valu Bilt 888-828-3276. If you have a dealer, Case-IH is the place to go. H's and M's used that seat. Larry
1650 hydraulics
IP: 216.248.75.2 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 09:52:40 PM by Ryan
Hello Larry, My '65 1650 came with 3 pioneer couplings on the back, (I am the third owner but the manual I got lists this as the first owner options). It was on the right side, and has a return line with valve in it. I figured this was for dump wagons, I have used it with single acting ones and it works well. My problem is that I added a fourth pioneer when I put my loader on, and it seems very difficult to connect, it always seems to have pressure. the left side couplings are hook-under pressure style, but both the right are not. the factory one isn't a problem, I can open that valve to release the pressure, but the one I plumbed can be really hard. I have had some success with shutting down and running the levers, but not much. have I done something wrong, or should I just put a connect under pressure one on and stop swearing at it?
Re(1): 1650 hydraulics
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 06:34:54 AM by Larry Harsin
You should put a coupler on there that hooks up under pressure. It is the proper thing to do and it will save a lot of monkeying around. Larry
Re(2): 1650 hydraulics
IP: 209.152.105.22 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 06:58:17 AM by Ryan
Thanks Larry, I wasn't sure if it was me or it. Ryan
loader
IP: 207.218.213.148 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 09:07:00 PM by KIM
HELLO LARRY, HOPE YOU ARE DOING WELL I HAVE A 1650 DIESAL WITH A 1610 OLIVER LOADER I NOTICED THAT WHEN I FIRST CRANK THE GAL UP MY FRONT LOADER SEEMS TO RESPOND A LOT BETTER WHEN COLD IT SEEMS I DONT HAVE TO INCREASE THE ENGINE SPEED AS MUCH. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED ONCE AGAIN LARRY THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME AND KNOWLEDGE KIM
Re(1): loader
IP: 209.163.7.22 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 06:31:10 AM by Larry Harsin
You may have a worn pump. Do some pressure testing both when it is cold and when it is warm. You might be able to adjust the pressure. Larry
Oliver 550 pulling capacity
IP: 137.128.100.252 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 11:14:22 AM by Terry Hoist
Can an Oliver 550 pull a 10 foot double disc? Also does the vickers hydraulic pump operate from the 80-90W fluid from the transmission?
Re(1): Oliver 550 pulling capacity
IP: 12.13.248.14 Posted on April 4, 2002 at 08:17:49 AM by Pete in Ks
I have a 10' Krause that I pull with my 550. My rear tire are calcium loaded and I pull it in 3rd gear. It pulls it fine but an 8' would be better. There just aren't many 8' wheel discs around.
Re(1): Oliver 550 pulling capacity
IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 08:48:04 PM by Larry Harsin
I doubt if the 550 will pull that disc. It might "sort of" pull it, but I think it would be a little too much for it. No, the vickers hydraulic pump uses a 10 or 20 weight hydraulic fluid. It has it's own compartment for it. The dip stick to check it is on the right side of the seat by the seat support. Larry
Hydralic oil
IP: 216.178.90.157 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 09:36:50 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I was just wondering if I can use something other than 10w oil in my hydralic system on a 77, 88, and 770. I see that Wal-mart sells two types of hydralic oil. One is called R&O antiwear hydralic fluid and the other is called Transmission and Hydralic tractor fluid or something close to that. I'm not sure which to choose if either. Thank you for your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Hydralic oil
IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 06:17:08 AM by Larry Harsin
I think either of them might work. The Tractor Transmission fluid might be the heavier viscosity and better for warmer weather. You shouldn't use fluid with higher that SAE 20 viscosity. Larry
Lead Additive
IP: 216.178.90.157 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 09:28:54 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry. I wanted to know if it is necessary to add a lead substitute with the gasoline for my Olivers. I have a 1949 Oliver 88, 1950 Oliver 77, and a 1965 Oliver 770. Thank you for your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): Lead Additive
IP: 209.163.7.72 Posted on April 3, 2002 at 06:13:06 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think it is necessary unless you are working them hard. For what I do with them I don't add it. Larry
1650 gas intake
IP: 192.43.65.245 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 02:45:56 PM by 88 Power
Larry-- thanks for your reply on my 88 disk brake springs. Anyway, I'm wondering if you have or know someone who has a production 1650/1655 intake manifold in good condition. I don't want an aftermarket manifold because the port runners are smaller. Thanks for your help.
Re(1): 1650 gas intake
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 06:05:35 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't have one. Tom might have one at O'Brien Co Impl. Ask for Tom 800-320-6224 Larry
rain water in oil
IP: 216.134.0.44 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 12:19:47 AM by kraig
Larry, every time it rains I get water in the crank case of my 770. Is it possible it is coming through the exhaust pipe? The pipe has a flapper on top but water still gets in. How can I stop this? Thanks K McMillan
Re(1): rain water in oil
IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 06:03:14 PM by Larry Harsin
Maybe you need a different rain cap. Also a curved pipe will do it. I've noticed when it is raining sometimes the wind holds the rain cap open. Larry
1750 & 1755 engines
IP: 66.84.175.21 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 08:42:48 PM by 88Power
Larry-- Were the 1750 and 1755 gas engines a 12 port or 9 port head?
Re(1): 1750 & 1755 Engines
IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 06:01:07 AM by Larry Harsin
Both were 12 port engines. They are identical. Larry
Oliver 1850 gas push rods
IP: 65.58.11.82 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 04:13:38 PM by Ray Englehart
I am trying to locate some push rods for an Oliver 1850 gas, 6 cylinder engine for my son-in-law. Can anybody help us out.
Re(1): Oliver 1850 gas push rods
IP: 209.163.7.67 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 07:21:14 AM by Larry Harsin
After checking this morning, I found that I don't have these. Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. He will have them. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 1850 gas push rods
IP: 65.58.206.42 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 07:11:46 PM by Ray Englehart
Larry, Thanks for the reply, I actually found some at a dealer within 25 miles of me. I will keep O'Brien Co Impl number handy for future reference.
77 Distributer
IP: 65.209.153.225 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 01:05:17 PM by Rich
Larry Can you tell me how much ignition advance is in the 77 distibutor. When I set the igintion per the book at full RPM, I can't start the engine. When I set the ignition about TDC at crank RPM it will start,but it looks like I am not reaching correct setting for full RPM setting. I checked the distributor and it is not froze up, but maybe something is not correct.
Re(1): 77 Distributer
IP: 209.163.7.39 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 05:59:00 AM by Larry Harsin
You should set the timing with the engine idling at 500 RPM at TDC. Then when you speed the engine up to wide open - 1600 RPM, with your timing light you should see IGN on the flywheel. This gives it about 20 degree advance. Larry
Re(2): 77 Distributer
IP: 65.209.153.225 Posted on April 2, 2002 at 06:35:42 AM by Rich
Larry Thanks for the information, I will try again this evening.
Oliver 88 Disk Brakes
IP: 192.43.65.245 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 09:24:55 AM by 88Power
Larry-- I'm working on the disk brakes on my 88 and would like to know if the short springs that hold the plates together are still available. Or if there is a direct replacement from a newer tractor. Thanks in advance for your help.
Re(1): Oliver 88 Disk Brakes
IP: 209.163.7.81 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 12:42:00 AM by Larry Harsin
They are still available at AGCO. Larry
MS TSX-755 Carb
IP: 66.212.4.66 Posted on March 31, 2002 at 01:18:42 PM by Mike Renner
Hi Larry, I have an Oliver 770 with a MS TSX-755 carb. on it. My manual says the high speed load adjustment is correct at about 1 5/8 turns open. I have to adjust mine to about 2 5/8 turns open to have it run correctly. I ran a brush hog on it the other day and it still seemed like it had a bit of power loss. Could there be a problem with my extra adjustment or maybe something else like the coil? Thank you for your help. Mike Renner
Re(1): MS TSX-755 Carb
IP: 209.163.7.9 Posted on March 31, 2002 at 02:13:23 PM by Larry Harsin
There's a little removable jet in the bottom of the bowl that limits the amount of fuel that gets down to the adjusting nozzle. Simply remove that jet (or opening) with a screwdriver and put it in your pocket and see if it works better. If it does, don't put it back in. Larry
Re(2): MS TSX-755 Carb
IP: 216.178.89.168 Posted on March 31, 2002 at 03:42:32 PM by Mike Renner
I will give that a try. Thank you again Larry for your help. Mike Renner
hydralic pump gears
IP: 216.191.189.235 Posted on March 31, 2002 at 08:47:26 AM by Ralph White
My question is in order to replace the hydralic pump idler gear is it necesary to split the tractor or can it be reached any other way? This is on a cockshutt 550
88 clutch
IP: 209.23.55.123 Posted on March 30, 2002 at 08:55:40 PM by Paul Wais
We have several 88's and one with a difficult clutch. Much harder to push than the other Olivers. I was hoping you could give me an idea why and how I can make this tractor a little easier to handle. Thanks for your time.
Re(1): 88 clutch
IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on March 30, 2002 at 09:16:14 PM by Larry Harsin
The answer is part number K898A. This is a later style clutch pedal and it will make it much easier to operate. I have one on hand if you want it. $20 plus shipping. Email me if you want it. Larry
Re(2): 88 clutch
IP: 65.209.153.225 Posted on April 1, 2002 at 01:08:24 PM by Rich
Larry Would this be applicable to the 77? How is different that the original pedal?
1755- out of the mud
IP: 64.12.102.173 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 10:12:12 PM by Don
Today I finally got my 1755 out of the "pond" in back of the barn. Yesterday I did all the parts runs to my agco dealer, bought a new tierod end, axel pin, and seal for the hub since it was submersed in water for a good week. I ended up calling the neghbor who has a payloader and we pulled it out forward and to the side a little before I could fix the axel. couldn't get it started because of a dead battery, so my dad ran and got me 2 new ones while I tried to pull out the axel tube. Only one problem- IT WOULDN'T BUDGE. Then an idea hit me- if it could turn one way, why not the other way to get it back? I hooked a chain around the bottom by the hub after taking the tire off, and pulled it back down with another tarctor. worked very slick. soon after I was using the new pin to drive out the old pin (which when it sheared off it wedged in the tube) and sooner than I knew i was back to moving manure again. Tomorrow I have to take the hub apart and repack the wheel bearings and put in the new seal, and then it should be all ready to go again. I wish I could have taken pictures, but I didn't have time. hopefully the third time's the charm and I dont snap another axel pin. I just gotta get a different loader tractor because that loader is too hard on the front end.-I've replaced every ball joint except the tierod end on the other side now after they all snapped while working. Just a small price you have to pay I guess. I'd still rather pay $50-60 for new tierods and a pin than over $100 for a used spindel. Thanks for letting me just share my experience on your board larry, you're always there with good advise when I need it. Don
Re(1): 1755- out of the mud
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 11:47:09 PM by Larry Harsin
Glad to hear you're up and running. It sounds like you have a heavy enough job there, that you could use a stronger front end -- like maybe an industrial unit. Loaders ARE hard on tractors. Larry
Re(2): 1755- out of the mud
IP: 152.163.206.191 Posted on March 30, 2002 at 09:52:30 PM by Don
Some day I would just like to get a small industrial 4wd loader(maybe a massey) or even a 2wd if it's industrial. This is the third loader on the farm, first being a fordson which didnt have power steering, which was traded in for a massey 165, which the loader's frame wasn't heavy enough and cracked the frame AND arms on the loader. Still have that tractor, but then I bought my 1755 which is currently the most expensive one on the farm. I just gotta take the loader off more often when I don't need it. Don
cork seals
IP: 205.188.197.161 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 09:00:21 PM by Larry E
Just found your website and already love it! Where can I get the cork crank seals for my super 55? thanks Larry
Re(1): cork seals
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 11:41:02 PM by Larry Harsin
You can get them at O'Brien Co. Impl. Ask for Tom. 800-320-6224 Larry
88
IP: 216.138.55.89 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 08:38:42 PM by oliver farmer
hi Larry, thanks for the help on the 77 hydraulic switch. i also have a 1950 standard 88 diesel. First, can you get me in the right direction for the correct decals and paint scheme? Second, i have seen a lot of tractors with the intake and exhaust manifolds that have "oliver" cast on them. like whats on a 880. showld my standard have this same type of manifold? i bought this tractor from canada and the oil filter said Sept. 1977. the manifolds don't look like they were changed, but if they were it would have been before 1977. thanks a lot. chuck
Re(1): 88
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 11:39:38 PM by Larry Harsin
The green paint is Martin Senour Paint number 99L-3751. Red wheels is Martin Senour red 99L-3752. Yellow for grills and radiator cap is yellow 90T-3753. Contact Lyle & Helen Dumont for decals and any paint scheme questions you may have. You can reach them at oliver@lisco.com. Your standard would not necessarily have that same manifold. They didn't always have the Oliver cast on them, especially the earlier ones as it didn't show. It was on the Supers and the 3 digit numbers. Larry
Wheel weights for 550
IP: 209.240.222.131 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 06:24:20 PM by Peter
I would like to add as much weight as possible without using calcium. What would be the heaviest weights I could use? Do you feel it is necessary to add weight for maximum traction, when there is no implement weight such as pulling a loaded wagon in the woods? What should I expect to pay for a pair of used wheel weights? How much weight per tire would I gain if I use calcium? Tire size is 14.6 x 28.
Re(1): Wheel weights for 550
IP: 63.148.28.138 Posted on May 6, 2002 at 04:42:09 PM by David
Let's back-up for a minute. I was going to suggest another source of wheel weights that i've used on my 550. However, this may be a little difficult since my '74 550 wears 26" rear wheels. Was there a choice of wheel sizes?
Re(1): Wheel weights for 550
IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on March 29, 2002 at 11:29:17 PM by Larry Harsin
I'm guessing you would gain about 600 lbs with your fluid. I'm not sure, but I think those wheel weights may weigh 100 lbs each. Therefore, it would take 3 sets of them to equal the fluid. I would guess you'd probably pay about $75 per pair of weights. A couple of sets of weights would be a good idea for more traction. Those little tractors are not too heavy. I don't know where you'd find weights. You might talk to Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl if you don't know of another place. 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(2): Wheel weights for 550
IP: 208.10.124.93 Posted on March 30, 2002 at 11:45:56 AM by Larry from Maryland
One pair of rear weights for a 28" wheel weigh 220 pounds or 110 for one.I have the only pair i have ever seen.