Cockshutt 1850 with Hydrulic powered front wheel drive

IP: 209.226.247.89 Posted on May 7, 2005 at 09:25:29 PM by Jason

I was wondering how rare are Cockshutt 1850 with hydrulic powerd front wheel drive tractor is? and what values are they worth today? From the serial # what year is it also? 185-8270 163-716-478

Re(1): Cockshutt 1850 with Hydrulic powered front wheel drive

IP: 67.2.249.235 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 08:15:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Your Cockshutt 1850 was built in 1965. Not many of them were made making it a low production tractor. I really don't know how many of them were made. Perhaps they would know at the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net or perhaps Sherry Schaefer may know. Email: sherry@oliverinformation.com. As for value, check with Kurt Aumann. His website: www.aumannauctions.com. Larry

Re(2): Cockshutt 1850 with Hydrulic powered front wheel drive

IP: 209.226.247.37 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 08:45:35 AM by Jason

Thank you for your help Larry Harsin. Jason

S55 hydraulics

IP: 208.149.197.240 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 10:47:32 PM by Jim Bailey

Hi Larry: Is there a way to do a "power beyond" hydraulic setup on a S55 ? I couldnt find anything in the big oliver service manual. ( did find the power beyond info for 66-88& Supers though ). Also, is it correct that no hydra-lectric was available on the S55 ? Thanks for your help. Jim B.

Re(1): S55 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on May 7, 2005 at 06:41:51 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a way, but the "power beyond" type pump furnishes only 5 gal. per minute and that is not adequate for a loader. The method of choice is to use a front pump for a loader. There was no hydra-lectric available on the S55. Larry

Re(2): S55 hydraulics

IP: 208.149.197.138 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 10:12:59 AM by Jim Bailey

Larry: Thanks for the reply. The S55 in question belongs to a guy I work with. He doesnt want a loader, just an extra connection for a remote implement cyl. I'm not familiar with S55 hydraulics and have not actually looked at his tractor. Sounds like a power beyond is more difficult than on the 66-88 systems. Maybe the front pump would be best. Thanks again, Jim

Re(3): S55 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.17 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 06:45:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will tell you what you have to have and will be able to fix you up with it. Larry

Oliver Potato Digger

IP: 206.72.56.15 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 06:04:48 PM by Jeremy

I recently purchased a single row Oliver potato digger / harvester. It is PTO operated, roughly 24 inch wide digging path. It has no decals left on it, so I do not have model number or SN. I am looking for any information that someone may have including a parts book, manual, etc or just some good old advise! I plan on using this one so all is appreciated! Thanks

Re(1): Oliver Potato Digger

IP: 67.2.249.221 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 09:56:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with the Museum in Charles City for a Manual and what info they might have on your digger. Email: fchs@fiai.net Also, check with Sherry Schaefer about what info she might have on an Oliver Potato Digger. Email: Sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Re(1): Oliver Potato Digger

IP: 70.69.82.62 Posted on May 7, 2005 at 09:55:22 AM by Super 55

What a coincidence, I was trying to buy one off of a fellow that had one rusting in the field. He didn't want to sell, but I did get the parts book and operator's manual from Floyd County. They are only $10 each. I'm going to keep an eye on my digger, one day that fellow might decide to sell. The model I was looking at was also a pto, and it had the id plate on it. It was a 2-26 single row potato digger. If you go to this link you should be able to see a picture.http://www.imagestation.com/mypictures/index.html

Oliver/White G1355

IP: 68.35.39.115 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 08:36:39 AM by Kerry

My husband has an Oliver G1355 that he is considering selling. Can you tell me about what value he can expect? A local dealer told him they are worth at least $7,000 - is that right? It could use a paint job, but besides that it is in great condition with about 1500 hours on an engine overhaul.

Re(1): Oliver/White G1355

IP: 69.179.16.67 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 10:43:14 AM by Ron

Prices vary a lot across the country but if the tractor is good mechanically it's worth every penny of $7,000.

Re(2): Oliver/White G1355

IP: 67.2.249.221 Posted on May 6, 2005 at 09:52:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't seen any sell in our area. If that is what the dealer told you, I would assume that that is a fair price. Larry

Info on Oliver 2255

IP: 65.60.214.161 Posted on May 4, 2005 at 04:59:28 PM by Matt Hutcheson

I went to look at a 2255 today that I an interested in buying. It has the 3150 cat motor, 5464 hours. When they started the tractor it put out a pretty good cloud of smoke for a few minutes untill it warmed up, then it didnt seem to smoke at all. It ran strong, idled well and sounded good when it was opened up. Other than a few oil leaks it seemed to be a good running tractor. I am looking for something to use on the farm, so I dont want something that I have to work on much before using it. Is the smoking something to be wary of, like a blown head gasket or other problem? Is the 3150 a good motor? Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Re(1): Info on Oliver 2255

IP: 69.179.16.67 Posted on May 4, 2005 at 05:29:38 PM by Ron

The 3150/3208 is a great diesel. White smoke while warming up is perfectly normal for that engine. Black smoke on the other hand should be checked by a diesel mechanic. It could have many causes.

Re(2): Info on Oliver 2255

IP: 67.2.240.164 Posted on May 4, 2005 at 06:54:16 PM by Larry Harsin

The 3150 is a good engine. I don't think the smoke upon starting it is abnormal. We had one that acted the same way, and it was o.k. Larry

Re(3): Info on Oliver 2255

IP: 199.120.117.20 Posted on May 7, 2005 at 07:07:42 AM by Jim Meade

I have a 2255 with 3150 and it smokes pretty strong on start up. My Oliver mechanic friend says it's not a problem. Mine uses very little oil.

52 oliver 88

IP: 161.184.17.189 Posted on May 4, 2005 at 11:43:02 AM by jim

Hi Larry a while ago I gave you my serial # of my 88 and you told me it was a 1952. I also have a 1949 88 and the paint seems to be the same, I was of the understanding the paint changed in 52. Could it be my 52 was painted before the change or would they have changed colors @ 51 year end? Which color would be darker?

Re(1): 52 oliver 88

IP: 67.2.240.164 Posted on May 4, 2005 at 06:45:30 PM by Larry Harsin

In 1952, the green paint changed to Meadow Green. We get Meadow Green from our AGCO dealer and find that to be the cheapest here. Before that, they were a little bit darker. We have the darker green mixed. The Martin Senour number for it is 99L-8746. Your paint dealer should be able to match this. The colors look close to the same, but the older tractor is a little darker. Larry

88 Hydraulics,Lift, Belt Drive

IP: 66.82.9.82 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 12:46:18 PM by Bob Stockdill

I have a 88 s/n 3508420. It doesn't have any lift, hydraulics or belt drive. I also could use a new manifold. Do you have any of these? I was also wondering if you would know the HP on this year of 88. I believe it is a 1953. I thought some 88's also have live pto, Is that correct?

Re(1): 88 Hydraulics,Lift, Belt Drive

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 10:30:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I have all of the above. Email me about this, cobalt@rconnect.com The 88 was originally built with 43 HP. Most of them have been upgraded with the Super sleeves and pistons which gives them 10 more HP. Most 88's have live PTO. Larry

1655 follow-up

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 07:27:43 AM by Chad (IA)

A couple of weeks ago I saw an add in the Des Moines paper for a 1655 D, owned by the Iowa National Guard. The word was that this tractor was "using" water. It also had a broken 3 point yoke. It had only 3600 hours was used only for mowing, was a 1975 year. It had the perfect size rims and average tires. Had a beautiful ROPS / canopy that made your heart race. Had the upper back rest and probably the high speed. Great for a aspiring collector like myself. My mechanic and I looked at it and here was his assessment: Jump and use 1/2 can to get started. Very little white smoke. No smoke after 30 seconds. Ran for 30 minutes, maintained 30 lbs oil pressure, normal tempature. No vibration, sounded very good and tight. Drove good. No bubbles in water. No water in oil. "I can't find a thing wrong with that tractor, I would take the radiator to a good shop have it gone through and take it to the field" Long story short, my bid at $3133 was $300 short. I taked to the winning bidder. Not willing to sell the ROPS/canopy. However, it sounds like it will stay in the Oliver family. He grew up with a 1655 and assured me I would see it restored on the collectors curcuit after he gets a few years of field work out of it

Re(1): 1655 follow-up

IP: 67.2.242.8 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 10:25:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Thanks for the report! Larry

1650 gas

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 00:14:38 AM by robert oliver

IN MY TRACTOR THE CAM GEAR ATE THE CRANK GEAR UP I NEED THE SERVICE MANUAL TO PUT THE GEARS BACK ON AND GET IT TIMED AND ALSO TO FIND OUT HOW TO SET THE GOVENOR BACK TO SPEC,S I HOPE THAT YOU CAN HELP ME

Re(1): 1650 gas

IP: 67.2.249.182 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 07:17:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Service Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net or call them 641-228-1099. Larry

1850 torque specs

IP: 216.114.203.236 Posted on May 2, 2005 at 09:28:45 PM by Lyle

hi Larry, i just got done overhauling a 1850 diesel and i torqued the head bolts to 85 lbs and i notice a little anti freeze running down the head gasket i was wondering if my old manual doesnt have the right specs the head has been planed so it shold be good thanks Lyle

Re(1): 1850 torque specs

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 00:09:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't be too concerned. I would warm the engine up good and then retorque the head. I would also put a can of Bar's Leak in the radiator and see if that helps. Larry

Frozen Steering

IP: 216.46.211.104 Posted on May 2, 2005 at 07:48:14 PM by Randy Lund

Larry,the first question that you answered in the May/June Oliver Heritage had to do with a frozen steering column on an 1800,1855 and 1950. My 1550 did the exact same thing for a few years. I finally figured out that there was moisture in the needle bearing in the top of the column. I had to take off the steering wheel and remove the shaft,then spray WD-40 in the bearing to loosen the needles. Then I worked hard grease into it and put it back together. I haven't had a problem since. Letting it run for 5 minutes or so worked,but I use it everyday on the mixer wagon and it was getting expensive as well as time consuming.

Re(1): Frozen Steering

IP: 67.2.240.169 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 00:06:52 AM by Larry Harsin Yes, that does work. Larry

Knife and guard anvil

IP: 207.177.83.248 Posted on May 1, 2005 at 06:30:35 PM by Randy-IA

Hi Larry , Do you know where I could find one of these knife and guard anvils for working on sickles ? I have an Oliver 415 that needs all new ledger plates and that anvil might make life easier . Thanks ....Randy

Re(1): Knife and guard anvil

IP: 67.2.249.21 Posted on May 1, 2005 at 11:12:32 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with your JD or Case IH dealer. Or call Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

1755 stuck pto shaft

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 08:19:55 PM by brad kubat

Hi Larry~ I just received a reman 3 speed from O'brien implement for my 1755 diesel. The trouble we are having is that we can only pull the pto shaft out 6 3/4" beyond rear housing. We removed rear upper cover, snap ring, plug, & O ring per I&T manual. We need to pull the shaft out, to pull engine, any suggestions. Thanks very much. Brad.

Re(1): 1755 stuck pto shaft

IP: 65.6.24.40 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 08:49:19 PM by George Steadman

They can be stubborn, I have put a bolt in the end and attached an impact wrench and somehow the shaft seems to just slide out. I have also just put in a bolt turn and pull, keep repeating and it will eventually line up and slide out. Patience is the best friend when dealing with the shaft.

Re(2): 1755 stuck pto shaft

IP: 67.2.248.248 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 08:59:31 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 sets of splines that aren't lining up. Push the shaft back to the original position and turn the PTO, then try it again. It just takes some patience, but it will eventually come. Larry

Re(3): 1755 stuck pto shaft

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 09:04:19 PM by Brad Kubat

George~ You are a LIFE saver! We messed around w/this thing for almost 2 hrs! I used your bolt & impact method & had it out in 10 seconds! Many, Many Thanks!! Brad

1855 3-point removal

IP: 67.233.14.193 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 05:08:58 PM by potentpuller

I am trying to remove the 3-point arms on my 1855. I have the upper link off and am trying to remove the lower links but the pins in the lower link support are frozen inside the balls and I cant remove them. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The Potent Puller

Re(1): 1855 3-point removal

IP: 67.2.248.248 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 08:56:18 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to heat them up with a torch and let them cool off. Do this a time or two and they should free up. Larry

1800A cracked block

IP: 65.23.162.33 Posted on April 29, 2005 at 08:32:06 PM by larry anderson

I have an 1800A gas that needs sleeves and pistons. we found cracks between 3 cylinders. looks like the block has froze up and spread about .025 away from the liners on the manifold side of the engine. No antifreeze gets into the oil. Would I dare to resleeve this engine? If not what engines would inter change, or where could I find a block or engine? thanks in advance. Larry

Re(1): 1800A cracked block

IP: 67.2.249.186 Posted on April 29, 2005 at 10:46:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I have resleeved engines the way that you describe. The main thing is that there is no cracking in the bottom where the sleeves seal to the block. If a good block is available, I would opt to replace the block. At the time I did it, there wasn't another one available. To find another block, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, Worthington Tractor 800-533-5304 or Rock Valley Salvage 800-8331-8543. Larry

Re(2): 1800A cracked block

IP: 69.179.16.67 Posted on April 30, 2005 at 05:46:05 AM by Ron

The block isn't worth fixing. Any 6 cyl. Oliver/Waukesha gas engine can replace any other. Tractor salvage yards can sell you a complete running engine for far less than the cost of a block and all the machine work and labor to fit the old parts in it. Local phone book, ag magazine, or tractor dealer can point you at salvage yards.

310 torque specs

IP: 131.118.85.202 Posted on April 28, 2005 at 01:51:06 PM by Chase

Larry, I am rebuilding a 310 G and am needing all of the torque specs for that particular engine. Do you have any books with those in it. Thanks.

Re(1): 310 torque specs

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 28, 2005 at 01:56:27 PM by Ron

fchs@fiai.net should have a service manual for the 1850.

Re(2): 310 torque specs

IP: 67.2.248.131 Posted on April 28, 2005 at 08:43:49 PM by Larry Harsin

The head bolts are 130. The main bolts are 130. The rods are 57. Larry

Re(3): 310 torque specs

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 29, 2005 at 09:30:27 AM by Ron

While all the Oliver/Waukesha 6 cyl. gas engines have the same head bolt tightening sequence it's not the usual "inside/out" pattern due the the few head bolts. If you get the pattern wrong, they won't hold torque and may leak. The correct pattern is in the service manual.

oliver parts prefix

IP: 65.102.161.79 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 05:31:11 PM by chuck margosian

I am trying to find out what tractor model parts begin with an "A" such as A891A that is suppost to be a belt pulley for a oliver 60, but all my parts begin with an "H". I have an oliver 60 RC 1945. Chuck, Kent,WA

Re(1): oliver parts prefix

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 10:30:24 PM by Larry Harsin

The "A" was for the 28-44 which later evolved into the 90 and 99 4 cylinder tractors. Most of the 60 parts start with an "H". Most of the 70 parts start with a "B". Most of the 80 parts start with a "C". 66 parts start with "L". 77 parts start with "M". 88 parts start with "K". etc. Larry

Oliver 770

IP: 147.182.5.50 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 02:56:20 PM by Mark Rigdon

Larry, Can you give me an approximate price range that a late model (1965 or later) 770 with wide front and 3 point would go for assuming it's mechanically sound? I found a guy who knows where one is at. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 770

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 10:25:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I would give it a range of $3500 - $4500. Larry

Oliver plow

IP: 130.76.96.19 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 07:44:37 AM by Vernon

I have an Oliver semi-mount 4 bottom 14" plow. It is a round tube beam. I can not find the series NO. anywhere on the plow. The Raydex bottoms ARE NOT spring or hydraulic reset. Do you have a clue which series this might be? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver plow

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 10:23:50 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a 4400 series. A 4441 was a pull type plow that was built the same way. This is in that family of plows and I think it may be a 4440. A lot of the parts are interchangeable. Larry

The Oliver OC3

IP: 12.163.89.63 Posted on April 25, 2005 at 07:51:37 PM by David & Tawnya

We bought an Oliver OC3 crawler(1948) and we're having trouble with the starter and also with the engine missing. Is that a common problem, and how can it be fixed? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): The Oliver OC3

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 10:17:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Zimmerman Cletrac. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry

Plow/Planter ID

IP: 4.248.254.199 Posted on April 25, 2005 at 06:32:28 PM by MJC

Hi Larry, I have an Oliver 4-bottom, 16in plow that the only casting number that I can find is on the rear wheel housing (217 810 B). Rear depth control is by hydraulic cylinder and tractor lift arms control front depth. There is only one wheel, the rear. The main beam is about 4X4 in square. You and I previously identified the plow as a 4441, however I obtained a Parts Book and Operating Instructions for the 4441, and the one I have is definitely not 4441. I ordered a set of shares for the 4441 and they did fit. Any ideas?? Also, I have an older 2-row planter that I cannot find a name on. The planter is chain driven, 4-bin, adjustable width, Cat-1 3-pt hitch. Casting # - 318297 (Foot Assy); 316578 (Seed plate Drive Shaft); 316607 (Main Front Beam). The color is yellow/orange. Thanks for any info you may have on either of these older pieces of equipment.

Re(1): Plow/Planter ID

IP: 67.2.242.89 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 10:15:38 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has a square box beam, your plow could very easily be a 565. Yellow orange - it could be a Case planter. There should be a casting of the eagle sitting on the world somewhere on it if it is a Case. The color would fit. Others of that color could be Minneapolis Moline, Allis Chalmers, or possibly a Cockshutt. Larry

Re(2): Plow/Planter ID

IP: 4.248.41.55 Posted on April 27, 2005 at 08:01:53 PM by MJC

Thanks, Larry.

S88 Diesel

IP: 67.36.241.104 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 08:55:40 PM by John Wilson

I'm gonna rebuild a Super 88 diesel for tractor pulling, and I want to put some 4" pistons in it. I know it will probably reduce compression thogh. Is there a way I can get around this so I can get some more horsepower?

Re(1): S88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 09:53:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't rig up tractors for tractor pulling. I'm not aware of anyone who makes 4" pistons for a S88 engine. You could check with Doug Johnson at email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com or phone: 319-347-6332. Larry

Oliver 550

IP: 156.63.247.145 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 01:47:05 PM by Don Burdsall

I would like to add a hydraulic hook up to my Oliver 550. Is this possible and where can I get directions?

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 09:49:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it is possible. You have to get an auxillary valve that goes on your tractor. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. There might be something about this in your Operator's Manual. I think some instructions will come with the valve. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550

IP: 207.134.203.244 Posted on May 3, 2005 at 04:29:14 PM by Bernard

Hi, is there a way to run the loader with a control valve. May be it have a pressure port and return plug, but wich one? Bernard Québec Canada

Re(3): Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.249.235 Posted on May 8, 2005 at 08:38:22 AM by Larry Harsin

The books really don't say. There is an external valve that you can buy and put on there and I'm not sure if you can do it without this or not. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and see what he says. 800-320-6224. Larry

Super 55

IP: 209.161.76.221 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 08:46:06 AM by Banks

I am the proud owner of a 1956 Super 55. I repainted it about 12 years ago with synthol enamel and its time for some new paint. Two questions At the time i painted it my local paint dealer's color chart listed two greens for Oliver. One "early" and one "late". I went with early because it was a more mellow green similar to Deere. Now I can only locate one Oliver green and it looks like the darker blue/green that I think was used on 550's and newer. Do you have a paint code for this earlier green? Next question is on decals. On my tractor the OLIVER and SUPER 55 on the hood is painted white. I confirmed this the last time it was painted by carefully scraping to bare metal and found nothing but white. At that time I made some templates and sprayed them white again. Do you know of a source for decals that white instead of the yellow that is all I can locate? My tractor also came with red back wheels and green front wheels.Again I confirmed this by going to bare metal looking for other colors. It has be sugjested to me that my tractor was built at the transition from green to red and that green front wheels were still in the factory. What is your thoughts on this?

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 09:46:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The correct green is Oliver Meadow Green. This green was used on the late fleetlines up through all of the supers. The Martin Senour number is 99L 3751. Your paint dealer can match this. However, it is cheaper to get it from an AGCO Dealer. The numbers and letters were all yellow. Your's must have just been faded. Check with Lyle Dumont on this. He is the paint and decal expert. He makes and sells decals. His email is: oliver@lisco.com I would rather doubt the story of the tractor being built during a transition. Larry

Stripped out Bolt

IP: 65.172.9.110 Posted on April 22, 2005 at 09:54:41 PM by Jim

We've got a S88 Diesel. The threads are stripped out for one bolt where the front tire rim bolts to the cast-iron center hub. Can new threads be tapped to fix the problem or should that hub be replaced? Thanks for any information.

Re(1): Stripped out Bolt

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 03:17:09 AM by Ron

You can do either. You can also drill it out to the next size and put a grade 5 or better bolt through both with a locknut on the inside of the hub.

Re(2): Stripped out Bolt

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 06:04:13 AM by Larry Harsin

You can drill those out and use 9/16 lug bolts that are available at a farm supply store or an implement dealer, like John Deere. The front wheel on a 4440 uses that bolt. Larry

Re(3): Stripped out Bolt

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 11:11:47 AM by J ULMER

If you want to keep the hub and close to original, you can tap the hole and install a Heli-Coil insert which involves basically drilling out the hole, tapping it with the HeliCoil tool and installing the HeliCoil which are new stainless steel threads which lets you use your old size correct bolt in the old hub. The inserts are relatively cheap, but the tap and insertion tool in a kit can run $50 or so, but you might find a mechanic friend who has them or a machine shop who have them and would drill, tap and install an insert for you for a very nominal price.

Lower Link Support

IP: 70.56.114.74 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 07:39:58 PM by dwm

Larry, On 1550s through 1655s, (and I believe on up) the lower arms of the 3 pt. hook up to one of three sets of holes on the tractor in what the parts and shop manual calls the 'lower link support'. I believe it must be fairly common for one of these to break as I have seen some tractors other than mine welded. I had this happen to my 1655 years ago while plowing, and we welded in back in place, luckily not damaging the seal. Problem is caused by using those snap-over ring type retainers on the implement to hold the 3-pt arm on, and corn stalks can flip the ring up and the pin pops out. In my case, when I got to the end of the field to raise the plow, one arm came off, and the other side raised one side of the plow twisting the 3 pt. arm until this clevis-like piece breaks. Forever after, I always used double-nutted bolts after that, and just bought enough hitch balls to put on everything. My question is--is the piece hard to replace? It looks like a real pain. My I & T manual says to remove the PTO housing off the back and the hydraulic unit under the seat. Do any transmission/differential gears need to be removed, or can you access it as the manual says after removing the PTO and hydraulic body...and then backing off the draft control spring? Do they freeze in place after this many years? Finding one of these may also be a real challenge. Parts book shows it as 157 683A. With this much off the tractor, what else should be inpsected? Any insite appreciated. Thanks, dwm

Re(1): Lower Link Support

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 07:54:28 PM by Larry Harsin

Replacing the lower links is as outlined in your I & T Manual. The hydraulic unit does not need to be removed, nor do any gears or drive train. The PTO unit does have to be removed as your manual says. There is nothing too difficult. Be sure and check the setting on the tension on the spring and reassemble it to that dimension. Also, replace any worn bearings where the pivot is supported and certainly the seals. I think the rest of the repair will be apparent. I think you will be able to find used parts to replace your broken ones. And I am sure that new bearings and seals are available. Larry

Re(2): Lower Link Support

IP: 70.56.114.74 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 11:17:01 AM by dwm

Thanks for the reply Larry. The I & T manual I have, No. O-23 for 1550 through 1655, paragraph 258 on working on the "draft control actuating assembly" says you have to remove both the PTO unit off the back, and "on all models, remove the hydraulic housing". Having no experience here, I'll try it your way. dwm

Re(3): Lower Link Support

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 09:56:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't see any need to remove the hydraulic unit if you just have to remove one of the lower rock shaft pieces. Larry

oliver 60 rc

IP: 64.68.174.96 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 09:35:26 AM by shannon frericks

Need information on removing steering bolster! reason is because it steering hard even when front ends up in the air!

Re(1): oliver 60 rc

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 07:46:49 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check is to see if any of the "U" joints are binding. If it becomes necessary to take the worm gear and sector apart, those pieces can be removed without taking the bolster off of the tractor. All of the bearings can be replaced if necessary, also. Larry

Re(2): oliver 60 rc

IP: 64.68.174.35 Posted on April 22, 2005 at 07:39:31 AM by shannon frericks

It is in the bolster it self. I have that all apart and it still turns hard! I was wondering how to get the steering gear off to drop the bolster? P.S. Thanks larry for the first reply and for being fast!

Re(3): oliver 60 rc

IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 06:01:17 AM by Larry Harsin

Loosen the nut on the top of the sector and jack the tractor up so that the post is hanging (or the wheels are off of the ground), then pound down on the shaft and it will come loose. It is a tapered shaft. Larry

Re(4): oliver 60 rc

IP: 64.68.174.159 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 07:52:18 AM by Shannon Frericks

Thanks again, tried that seems to be on pretty tough! Any other suggestions?

Re(5): oliver 60 rc

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on April 23, 2005 at 09:58:00 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It will come loose. Get a bigger hammer! :) :) Larry

Re(6): oliver 60 rc

IP: 64.68.174.204 Posted on April 26, 2005 at 12:17:07 PM by Shannon Frericks

I got her free but,there is no top bolster bearing is this common? All there was were 2 shims beneath the eccentric gear and a smooth cyclinder below the shims that the bolster shaft slides though! Thanks again!

Re(7): oliver 60 rc

IP: 67.2.248.185 Posted on April 27, 2005 at 07:16:22 AM by Larry Harsin

That eccentric is the top bearing. The shims are used to take up the slack on the bottom bearing. When you reassemble this, install a new "O" ring in the groove on the eccentric, so that the grease will stay up in the worm gear and sector. Also, do not set the worm and sector too tight with the eccentric or it will bind. In other words, leave some slack. Larry

Re(8): oliver 60 rc

IP: 64.68.172.54 Posted on April 28, 2005 at 05:19:31 PM by Shannon Frericks

Hi Larry There is no groove for the O-ring! So I was wondering do I place the o-ring between shims and the housing? Thanks sincerely yours, Shannon Frericks

Re(9): oliver 60 rc

IP: 67.2.248.252 Posted on April 29, 2005 at 06:58:47 AM by Larry Harsin

If there is no place for an "O" ring, just assemble it without one. If it has worked this long without one, it must not need one. Don't put it between the shims and the housing. That won't work. Get some "corn head grease" from the Case IH dealer or the JD dealer and fill the steering gear box full. This will stay in there better than 140. Larry

Oliver 1900/2255

IP: 194.82.238.108 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 09:19:37 AM by billybunter

I am interested in buying a big Oliver/cockshutt either the 1990/1950 GM diesel or perhaps a 2255. What in your opinion would be the better buy, I am interested in using it to trailor other classic tractors (John Deere 5020) to local shows and also to take part in our local tractor pull (in the farm class). As you may see I live in the UK so we have little experience of these models over here.Are their any obvious weaknesses in these models or things to look out for? Are value similar?

Re(1): Oliver 1900/2255

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 10:51:04 AM by Ron

The 2255 will have the CAT 3150/3208 which was used in trucks, yachts, industrial equipment, construction equipment, as well as tractors. Therefore, parts may be easier to come by but you would be a better judge of that. Many diesel shops here sell rebuilt 3150/3208s at reasonable prices; they are almost a commodity item. At least on this side of the pond, prices are similar and depend greatly on condition. The 2255 is an immensely powerful tractor and would likely suit both your purposes.

Re(2): Oliver 1900/2255

IP: 67.2.248.255 Posted on April 21, 2005 at 07:43:27 PM by Larry Harsin

The 2255 is a heavy tractor to haul around. It is heavier than your other 2 choices. It will weigh 3000 lbs. more than your other 2 choices. It weighs approx. 14,000 lbs. All of the tractors you are comparing are good choices. I know of no special weaknesses in any of them. Personally, I would choose the 1950 GM, because I worked with them when they were produced. Larry

narrow front end

IP: 216.220.251.162 Posted on April 20, 2005 at 07:04:07 PM by mike

Larry I have a n/f with the small six bolt hole patern hubs for my s88. what model tractors used the small front hubs?

Re(1): narrow front end

IP: 67.2.249.0 Posted on April 20, 2005 at 10:23:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The early 77RC used those hubs. Someone has put them on your S88. They will work just fine. Larry

66

IP: 216.51.249.24 Posted on April 19, 2005 at 09:29:16 PM by farmer Tom

Had the 66 on an auger, had been running for 1.5 hours straight. Shut it off for dinner, came back tried to start it, it backfired loudly, spun the distributer enough to tear the coil wire off. Opened the inspection door on the distributer drive and the gear is broken. Do I have to take out the oil pump? What do you sugggest?

Re(1): 66

IP: 67.2.248.7 Posted on April 19, 2005 at 11:20:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The oil pump has to come out so you can replace the gear, if it is broken. Larry P.S. After thinking some more, I would look for trouble in the distributor. Something in that mechanical advance, below the breaker plate, may have broken and gotten caught and caused the gear to break. Larry

Re(2): 66

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 20, 2005 at 08:29:37 AM by Ron

A backfire could both cause the broken gear or be the result of the gear breaking. I'd pull the distributor and have a real good look at it and try to spin the shaft... if it spins freely there may be internal engine damage. If the shaft is hard to turn you'll need a new distributor but be sure to check the cam gear for broken/cracked teeth.

Re(2): 66

IP: 216.51.249.24 Posted on April 20, 2005 at 09:57:38 PM by farmer Tom

thanks for the advice. it is very hard to turn the distributer with it out of motor and the gear is broken. so I have major job ahead

88 shift pattern problem

IP: 70.56.119.157 Posted on April 19, 2005 at 08:21:31 AM by Ray Baltes

Larry, I recently purchased an 88 Row Crop that has a problem with the shift pattern. The former owner rebuilt the hydraulic pump, and now only the gears on the left side of the shift pattern work. I can get in both ranges, and he said before he took the shift lever out the tractor had all gears. Any thoughts?

Re(1): 88 shift pattern problem

IP: 67.2.248.7 Posted on April 19, 2005 at 11:11:40 PM by Larry Harsin

I think if you just remove the shift lever and look in there, you can see what is wrong. The interlock maybe swung to one side. When you begin to remove the shift lever, there are 2 springs to watch for and be sure not to drop them into the hole. Larry

1650 Starter Solenoid Replacement

IP: 4.248.238.248 Posted on April 18, 2005 at 06:49:36 PM by MJC

Good Evening Larry, I have to replace the starter solenoid on my 1650 diesel but can't see how to disconnect the rear of the solenoid from the housing. When I remove the 4 retaining screws that hold the solenoid to the starter body the solenoid moves forward an inch or so then is stopped by something inside the housing. There are two silver-colored discs that appear to provide access to the rear of the housing but I've not attempted to remove them. What am I not doing (correctly)? Thanks for your efforts!

Re(1): 1650 Starter Solenoid Replacement

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 18, 2005 at 07:40:51 PM by Ron

Service replacements are usually sold with the solenoid installed on the starter. The reason is that the starter must be completely disassembled to R&R the solenoid. The procedure is covered in the service manual.

Re(2): 1650 Starter Solenoid Replacement

IP: 67.2.248.167 Posted on April 18, 2005 at 08:13:32 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to pull the front part right off of there. When you pull the front part (the solenoid) off, the solenoid plunger will stay on the starter. Normally, this doesn't have to be replaced. What you are working against is probably a rubber boot or something. If you just pull a little harder, I think it will come. If it doesn't want to come fairly easy, I would be inclined to take the whole starter off and take it to the repair shop. Larry

Reversed Oliver

IP: 64.12.116.9 Posted on April 17, 2005 at 02:16:44 PM by Joe

Hi Larry, Is it possible to reverse the transmisson of an Oliver fleetline. To where you would essentially have 6 reverse speeds and 2 forward. I've seen several Allis Chalmers WD45's done, and wondered if an Oliver trans could be done too.

Re(1): Reversed Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.15 Posted on April 17, 2005 at 06:59:24 PM by Larry Harsin

Not like an Allis Chalmers can. Oliver did it with the "Reverse-O-Torque". It attaches ahead of the transmission. With this set up, the reverse idler is removed, and the Reverse-O-Torque reverses the entire transmission giving you 6 reverse and 6 forward gears. It was widely used on Industrial Olivers. Larry

1655 Three point hitch

IP: 152.163.100.9 Posted on April 17, 2005 at 07:35:09 AM by Billybob-Ia.

We got our tractor backit is overhauled, I was mowing with our rotary cutter, I was wondering if there is an adjustment for the rate of drop of the three point hitch, I did not see anything in our operators manual. It seems to drop the mower pretty hard. The old girl is ajoy to run. Thank you for your time and knowledge.

Re(1): 1655 Three point hitch

IP: 69.179.6.117 Posted on April 17, 2005 at 08:54:49 AM by Ron

My rotary cutter weighs 1,350 lb and it gets dropped pretty hard too. There's a lot of leverage out there with a 7' or 8' cutter. I find if I'm real delicate with the lever I can minimize the effect.

Re(2): 1655 Three point hitch

IP: 67.2.248.167 Posted on April 18, 2005 at 08:16:39 PM by Larry Harsin

There is no adjustment to slow the rate of drop on that tractor. Larry

Oliver2-26" Potato Digger

IP: 70.69.82.62 Posted on April 16, 2005 at 07:02:00 PM by Super 55

I was at one of the local produce markets in the Fraser Valley today and when I parked the truck, I noticed some old equipment in the field next to the parking lot. Low and behold there was what appeared to be an Oliver potato digger. It has a serial number plate:

serial # 1163 model: 2-26" Digger

I don't know anything about these implements, but wouldn't mind saving it from a slow rusty death. It seems to be all there, just a bit of the Oliver green paint on it, but has car tires on it. I talked to the wife of the owner, and she said to call her son when he comes back in a couple of weeks. I would only want it for display. What size Oliver would this match up to. What era is it, and how much should I offer the fellow and be fair to him. It doesn't look like it has worked for decades. Thanks for any help or advice. By the way, this is the first Oliver implement I have ever seen around here, so they aren't that common. I had to drive all the way to Edmonton for my 2 bottom plow.

Re(1): Oliver2-26 Potato Digger

IP: 67.2.249.158 Posted on April 16, 2005 at 09:45:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I can't answer this. Contact Sherry Schaefer, email: sherry@oliverinformation.com There was a family named Tallman - old time Oliver Dealers and potato farmers in PA. They were friends of Sherry and I think she can answer this. Larry

oliver horse drawn cultivator

IP: 208.11.117.39 Posted on April 15, 2005 at 08:34:57 PM by kraig mcmillan

Larry, I have what I believe to be an Oliver one row horse drawn cultivator ( cut it from a stand of trees). It appears to be complete except for the wooden tongue. I want to restore it but I have found very little information. I have a few questions I hope you can answer or point me in the right direction. What I want to know is this an actual Oliver plow? If so about when were the built? And what was the color scheme? Any info is always greatly appreciated.

Re(1): oliver horse drawn cultivator

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on April 15, 2005 at 11:35:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I can't answer this. Maybe Sherry Schaefer could. Email her at: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Re(2): oliver horse drawn cultivator

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on April 15, 2005 at 11:46:41 PM by J. Ulmer

Your plow was probably built by the Oliver Chilled Plow Works of South Bend Indiana way before the merger in 1929 of the Hart-Parr Tractor works, Oliver Chilled Plow works, Nichols & Shepard threshing machine works, and a company that made grain drills. If you will go to the following address on the web you will find a lot about the plow company's history before the merger of 1929. www.centerforhistory.org/ocpw.html or www.indiana history.org/oliver or Google "Oliver Chilled Plow Works" with "South Bend , Indiana"

2255

IP: 216.79.136.32 Posted on April 14, 2005 at 11:34:19 AM by Greg Davis

Larry, On June 21st of last year I asked you about working on the pressure plate/clutch of my 2255. You responded on June 27th saying, and I quote "A note of caution: This tractor is difficult for even a professional to repair. I would strongly consider having a professional do this job. Larry" Well, the tractor is almost complete now. It is running and no leaks so far. Besides the bolt being missing out of a finger on the pressure plate (that was the problem) we did a complete clutch job, replaced the bushings in the front spindles, rebuilt the steering box, replaced the bearings in the pitman arm below the steering box, and took the P.T.O. off and replaced bearings in it and replaced the seals in it. We also straightened out some wiring problems and found a short in one of the caution lights. Keep in mind we only worked on Wednesday nights about 2 or 3 hours due to our schedule. We missed some weeks and didn't work at all. This is why it took so long. But I didn't need the tractor so we took our time. We did not have any "professionals" come in to help us. So now I have to ask you, do we qualify as professionals? When responded as you did, this fueled our fire, and we immediately took on the job. Thank you for inspiring us. We saved some money by doing it ourselves.

Re(1): 2255

IP: 69.179.18.239 Posted on April 14, 2005 at 11:47:40 AM by Ron

Well, time is money and money is time. So as long as you didn't need to be using the tractor you saved some money. But you traded off a lot of time. However, you certainly earned my respect. It goes to show what someone can do who is committed to accomplishing a project. Enjoy your tractor!

Re(2): 2255

IP: 67.2.249.229 Posted on April 14, 2005 at 07:20:39 PM by Larry Harsin

Sounds like a win - win deal to me. Congratulations on a job well done.!!! Larry

75 Spreader

IP: 4.252.130.115 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 03:55:48 PM by Brad Heiter

I'm looking for parts for an Oliver model 75 Spreader. I need the rachet dogs, springs and pins. Any idea of were to go for these parts? Brad

Re(1): 75 Spreader

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 11:36:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 88

IP: 161.184.21.159 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 10:47:56 AM by jim tippe

what year is my standard 88 serial #5025-827540 and could you please tell me if this was positve or negative ground originally. Where would I find push rods for a K100c engine. Do you know of any Canadian web sites. Thank You

Re(1): oliver 88

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 11:34:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 88 Standard was built in 1952. The 827540 is the actual serial #. It was positive ground. I think I might have some of those push rods. I'll check in the morning and email you. I don't know of any Canadian Oliver websites. Larry

Re(2): oliver 88

IP: 161.184.19.165 Posted on April 14, 2005 at 00:26:34 AM by Jim

Thank you Larry. You have a very good site and excellent response time. Thanks again.

Oliver 60 W.F.

IP: 66.243.200.185 Posted on April 12, 2005 at 05:08:24 AM by Ron Grother

did they ever use HxM hubs on the 60 W.F.

Re(1): Oliver 60 W.F.

IP: 67.2.249.4 Posted on April 12, 2005 at 06:58:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Do you mean F & H hubs? The only ones I have seen on the 60 WF is the regular Oliver hubs with pressed steel rims. I have seen the F & H on 60 RC. They had 3 different adjustments for setting the spacing for the front wheels. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 199.101.6.250 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 09:09:14 PM by Jeff

I am in the process of buying an Oliver 77 for my farm. I was told the timing gear needs to be replaced and the engine may have siezed up. I was told there is an item you can pour down into the cylinders that can release the pistons from being siezed. Should I try that, or should I overhaul the engine, (a mjor undertaking). Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 69.179.18.239 Posted on April 12, 2005 at 04:10:03 AM by Ron

Seized can mean anything from flash rust on the cylinders which can be removed with PB Blaster (any auto parts store) to a spun bearing that has welded itself to the crank to a busted rod. An overhaul will cost much more than the tractor is worth. If you need a tractor to farm with, pass on this one. There are plenty of good used running tractors available.

Re(2): Oliver 77

IP: 67.2.249.4 Posted on April 12, 2005 at 06:55:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Typically I just take the engine apart and repair it as it usually needs overhauling anyway. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 77

IP: 199.101.6.250 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 07:33:09 PM by Jeff

Actually I am buying it from my father-in-law, he has 4 Oliver's. He is selling it to me for only $500, and he is going to assist me in repairing it.

Re(3): Oliver 77

IP: 67.2.248.164 Posted on April 13, 2005 at 11:39:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Take the head off and put some PCB Blaster in the cylinders. It comes in an aerosol can and can be found in a farm fleet store or an automotive store. It works like a penetrating oil. Larry

1250 rear rim

IP: 66.65.247.134 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 02:35:02 PM by John Tryon

Looking for a rear rim for a 1250 gas. Part number is 672 478-A. Mounts a 14.9-28 tire.

Re(1): 1250 rear rim

IP: 69.179.2.236 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 04:00:54 PM by Ron

Try www.millertire.com

Re(2): 1250 rear rim

IP: 67.2.248.194 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 07:25:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with www.agpartsfirst.com Phone 866-264-9720. Or Maibach Tractor Parts 800-808-9932. Or possibly Tim Smith, email: smittytractor@aol.com Larry

1550 Seat Shock Absorber

IP: 165.138.147.4 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 11:30:49 AM by Jeff

The tractor seat shock absorber on my 1550 gas tractor is shot. Where can I find one? What will work? Thanks...

Re(1): 1550 Seat Shock Absorber

IP: 67.2.248.194 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 07:21:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have one, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1850 gas Oil gallery

IP: 64.33.182.101 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 01:28:11 AM by JC(WI)

Does any one have a schematic /diagram of the oil galleries on 1850 Gas tractor? would appreciate getting a view of the oil flow in this engine. thanks, Jerry

Re(1): 1850 gas Oil gallery

IP: 69.179.2.236 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 06:38:34 AM by Ron

It's in the service manual.

Re(2): 1850 gas Oil gallery

IP: 67.2.242.65 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 06:53:00 AM by Larry Harsin

This is not in the Operator's Manual, you will have to get a Service Manual. An I & T Service Manual will have it also. It would be the same as the 1800C and the 1750 gas or diesel. You can get a Service Manual from the Museum at Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

88 L. P. gas Oliver

IP: 63.164.213.143 Posted on April 10, 2005 at 05:36:14 PM by Denise

My great uncle has just went to the nurseing home and left me in charge of his estate. We are cleaning up the old homestead and fell across this old tractor. Uncle says it was parked about 30 years ago in running condition in the barn. It has a loader on it, heat houser and the metal looks good. The question is the auctioneer says it isn't worth putting out on the sale date and wants to give us $150.00 for salvage. What and how do I find it's worth? Thanks, Denise

Re(1): 88 L. P. gas Oliver

IP: 69.179.2.27 Posted on April 10, 2005 at 06:14:53 PM by Ron

Don't get me started on auctioneers! It's worth way more than $150 even as scrap metal. Tell us where you are and maybe someone who is close by can put you in touch with an Oliver enthusiast who can assess its condition and give you a true idea of what it might be worth..

Re(2): 88 L. P. gas Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.29 Posted on April 10, 2005 at 11:33:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I would definitely put it on the auction. I wouldn't attempt to get it running. I would just put it on the auction and give the info that you just posted here about it being stored for 30 yrs etc. If it is advertised, you will get what it is worth. Larry

Re(3): 88 L. P. gas Oliver

IP: 64.24.241.92 Posted on April 11, 2005 at 08:26:44 PM by mike in ohio

Denise-- Follow Larry's advice and put it in the auction, but if it isn't too late to switch, find an new auctioneer whom you can trust! Good Luck-- Mike

1755 pto/rops top

IP: 12.22.148.66 Posted on April 8, 2005 at 12:03:59 PM by rick james

pto on my brothers 1755 does not engauge right away.it seems after it warms up the pto works.does the transmission fluid run pto,also he has a factory rops top that is heavy duty says white/oliver on this what could be the price to sell this.thanks

Re(1): 1755 pto/rops top

IP: 67.2.248.169 Posted on April 9, 2005 at 06:44:01 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO is engaged by the hydraulic fluid. The way his is working is not abnormal when the tractor and the oil are cold. I'd say that the rops is worth approx. $600 - $1000. Larry

Re(2): 1755 pto/rops top

IP: 64.12.116.74 Posted on April 10, 2005 at 09:00:04 AM by Chad (IA)

I am just north of Des Moines. I am looking for an original ROPS/canopy in the range Larry quoted. An original Oliver canopy has more overhang on the sides than other makes. It will also have an Oliver or White decal on the side overhang.

1800 C flexible fuel line

IP: 63.68.155.194 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 01:22:55 PM by Jim Smith

I need to replace the fleixlbe fuel line between the secondary fuel filter assembly and the injector pump. Do any of you know where I can get one?

Re(1): 1800 C flexible fuel line

IP: 69.179.7.84 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 05:41:33 PM by Ron

Take it off the tractor and drop it on the counter at NAPA or Carquest and they will make you a new one. Be sure to tell them it's for diesel fuel.

Re(2): 1800 C flexible fuel line

IP: 67.2.248.224 Posted on April 7, 2005 at 07:09:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Or, you can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 70 wheel

IP: 66.224.56.170 Posted on April 5, 2005 at 06:16:34 PM by RORY I am sending out the wheels with tire removed to be powdered coated. the wheel rims I have now are a little off white. on the internet all I see is a red color. what color is 1 39 standard suppose to have Re(1): oliver 70 wheel IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on April 6, 2005 at 06:22:31 AM by Larry Harsin I believe they should be red. They didn't have clover white at that time. Larry

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