1800a head

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 03:40:23 PM by nat

hi. i have a 1800a diesel that was leaking compression into the cooling system somewhere. we pulled the head off and can see cracks around the holes for the power chambers on every cylinder. a couple are pretty big. is this common on these heads. it was running fine and i quit running it as soon as this problem started. it looks like those cracks are pretty old and there are a couple questionable spots on the gasket so i am thinking i will just put on a new gasket (it has a victor 3809 on it now). any thoughts would be appreciated. thanks.

Re(1): 1800a head IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 09:12:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I would just install a new head gasket. Cracks are not uncommon and as long as it isn't leaking antifreeze into the engine or causing other problems, there is nothing wrong with using a head that is cracked. Larry

Oil Pressure

IP: 12.29.179.131 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 12:22:22 AM by Jim F.

Hi Larry, what will the oil pressure be on a 88... I just overhauled the engine and running @ 500 RPM I have about 10 - 12 #. Looks like from the book this is sufficient. Please advise. Thanks Larry.

Re(1): Oil Pressure IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 09:09:21 PM by Larry Harsin

12 - 18 lbs. What you have is good! Larry

exhaust manifold

IP: 207.177.72.202 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 12:08:37 AM by Steve Oliver

I need to change the exhaust manifold on my '77 rowcrop'. Do I need to change both the exhaust and intake manifolds or can I just change the exhaust? Can a shade tree mechanic do this? It doesn't look too hard to do?

Re(1): exhaust manifold

IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 09:08:04 PM by Larry Harsin

You can use the same intake manifold, but they both have to come off and have new gaskets. Split them and put the 2 back together with the new gaskets. You'll have a problem getting out the bolts that hold the 2 together. Use a torch to heat the bolts up so that they will come out without twisting off. If they twist off, you will have to drill them out. Larry

Oliver Loader?

IP: 32.97.110.70 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 08:43:34 AM by Peter Zielenski

In the Dutchess County Penny saver in NY, there is a 1965 Oliver loader for sale. I stopped and looked at it this morning and it seems to be ok with only a few small puddles of various fluids under her, but the question is: can you still get all the parts for this tractor. The model number is 1239.

Re(1): Oliver Loader? IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 09:02:19 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm assuming that parts would still be available for a tractor built in 1965. There is no such tractor as an Oliver 1239. Could it be a 1250? Oliver 1250's were built by Fiat. They are hard to get parts for. Get back to me on this. Larry

manifolds

IP: 209.183.124.77 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 03:08:45 PM by Dick

I have a Super88 s/n54665 is it possible to get new manifolds intake and exhaust for it?

Re(1): manifolds IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 08:58:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You can get them from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

E-76" CLETRAC

IP: 24.106.3.77 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 12:48:32 AM by RIPPER

I am looking for any information on cletrac my serial # starts with 4A.... and all I can find is info. on a 5A thanks

Re(1): E-76 IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 08:43:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net. Larry

Help- Gasket #'s

IP: 66.202.65.15 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 11:05:08 AM by R.Doty

Larry, I wrote the other day of my husband needing torche specs. Now we are in need of the correct part# for the head & valve cover gaskets. We ordered a set but they not the right ones. Here is the info. that we have: Oliver 1800 ser#134428-844 we believe it's a series B. The guys at NAPA figured out that it should have a F310DL motor. The # on the head is 22102 man.7/1971 the block# 155720A-221120. The old gasket has a Victor# 3809. With this info. could you please determine what is the correct part# that we should be ordering. thanks again. R.Doty

Re(1): Help- Gasket #'s

IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 08:46:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I really need to know if your tractor is a gas or a diesel. I will check out the part numbers in the morning. Larry

Re(2): Help- Gasket #'s IP: 209.163.7.37 Posted on May 8, 2003 at 07:57:08 AM by Larry Harsin

The head gasket for a gas or a diesel is part number: 155722A. The valve cover gasket for a gas is: 105524A. For a diesel is: 101796AA. Larry

Carb.

IP: 208.203.4.140 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 10:16:58 AM by Curt

I am in need of a carburator for a 1800b. Part number is USX29. Where can I find a rebuilt or new one? Thanks

Re(1): Carb. IP: 209.163.7.63 Posted on May 7, 2003 at 08:39:05 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. Larry

1850 perkins diesel oliver

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 10:28:55 PM by ed armentrout

I am looking for a good 354 perkins shortblock, do you know any whereabouts of one? If not, how difficult is it to change the dry sleeves in this motor? and, how reliable will the motor be? The rest of the tractor is in excellent shape.

Re(1): 1850 perkins diesel oliver IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 05:50:23 AM by Larry Harsin

You need to get a Shop Manual that covers the overhaul of the Perkins engine. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. It requires a suitable puller to perform the operation of removing the old sleeves and installing the new ones. It is a good engine and it is worth the trouble. It will be reliable. If you want a good rebuilt shortblock, contact Valu-Bilt at 888-828-3276. Larry

Re(1): 1850 perkins diesel oliver IP: 205.206.65.60 Posted on May 8, 2003 at 07:01:16 PM by alberta dave

Ed, I have been told that if you weld vertical strips on the inside of the old dry sleeves that they will shrink and come out easily. I have yet to try this but I was kind of curious if this method is fact, fiction or fantasy.

Re(2): 1850 perkins diesel oliver IP: 209.163.7.28 Posted on May 8, 2003 at 10:27:28 PM by Larry Harsin

What Dave says is true, but you have to be really careful doing that or you can screw things up. Larry

Float Setting on an 880

IP: 64.19.86.22 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 09:05:39 PM by kman

My shop manual says the float setting is 1/4" on the Zenith carb. Where is this measured from? Also, what causes carburetor "frosting" around the stud area (to manifold)?

Re(1): Float Setting on an 880 IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 05:45:01 AM by Larry Harsin

That is measured from the casting to the float itself. The frosting is a problem that is very common to the 880 with the Zenith carb. The 1600 is also bad about that and it uses a Marvel carb. The condition is worse at approx. 32 degrees outside temp. The simplest thing to do is to make sure you have a 180 degree thermostat and that it is working properly. You can also fabricate a baffle in front of the carb to stop some of the fan blast on it. In extreme cases, we used to fabricate an intake air heater that drew warm air from the outside of the muffler to go into the air cleaner. Larry

Lift Control Quadrant

IP: 63.148.118.34 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 05:57:35 PM by R.B. Bozay I have two 550s.One has a cracked and repaired lift control quadrant.It being the better of the two tractors I was wondering how much of a job it would be to switch them without running into any serious problems? Would the switch necessitate draining the hydraulic fluid?

Re(1): Lift Control Quadrant IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 05:39:07 AM by Larry Harsin

It looks like it is possible to do this without having to remove the whole unit and without having to drain the oil. It doesn't look like it would be that hard to do. Just work your way in, unbolt the quadrant and take it off. Larry

FLUID

IP: 198.64.162.155 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 10:58:47 PM by KIM

HI LARRY I HAVE A 1650 DIESAL AND IT CALLS FOR TYPE A TRANS FLIUD CAN I USE SOMETHING DIFFERENT? THIS TYPE A SEEMS TO BE HARD TO FIND THANKS, KIM

Re(1): FLUID IP: 67.0.84.204 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 11:55:21 PM by Dean Barker

I'm assuming this is in the Hydra-power or Over-under. The later over-under transmissions used White hydraulic oil; that is what I use in the over-under and the hydraulic system in my 1655.

Re(2): FLUID IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 06:29:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Also the new Mercon transmission fluid is suitable for that purpose. Larry

1855

IP: 64.157.16.235 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 08:29:53 PM by john bedwell

larry, i had to road my 1855 a few miles down the road today, during the trip the front tires wobbled real bad around 16mph, if i slowed down, the wobling would stop. the tires are 3rib goodyear, possible the originals, have you heard of this one? what do u think?

Re(1): 1855 IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 06:18:12 AM by Larry Harsin

It could simply be worn parts in the steering under the steering cylinder. Something might be loose and worn where the pitman shaft goes into the pitman arm. It could be loose tie-rod ends. It could be improper toe-in on the front wheels. Etc. Larry

33 to a 70 or 77

IP: 24.225.12.184 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 01:26:58 PM by Terry

Will a 33 combine's engine (flathead continental 226ci.) fit into a 70 or 77 easily. I was told by a collector in western Neb. that it was done quite a bit in the 50s and 60s.

Re(1): 33 to a 70 or 77 IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 06:24:19 AM by Larry Harsin

It would have a better chance of fitting into a 70 than a 77. I havn't done it. Larry

clutch return spring

IP: 24.205.17.125 Posted on May 3, 2003 at 11:50:37 PM by wayne mabb

the clutch return spring was broken on my 1943 oliver 70 and i need to know where it attaches to the frame. where the piece was mounted causes the new spring to be nearly expanded with rhe clutch engaged and i am afraid it will just fail again.

Re(1): clutch return spring IP: 209.163.7.45 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 06:15:11 AM by Larry Harsin

The clutch return spring was originally attached to the casting on the front of the transmission. There is a little hole in that casting that it hooks into. It is VERY difficult to attach it. I always attach it to the rear on the casting and then pull it forward to hook it on the clutch rod where it attaches to the arm of the clutch shaft. Larry

Re(2): clutch return spring IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on May 4, 2003 at 11:11:07 AM by Larry

I need to replace the spring on my 70. Where can I find a replacement. Are there specifications so a person can buy them locally? Thanks for your work on maintaining such a good website.

Re(3): clutch return spring IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 06:26:36 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a new clutch return spring from Korves Bros. The part number to ask for is: BA903. Email them at: korves@htc.net or their website is: www.korvesoliver.com. Larry

1955 engine trouble

IP: 209.106.191.120 Posted on May 2, 2003 at 11:43:04 AM by Bruce Baragary

wHAT DOES IT TAKE TO CONVERT FROM THE 310 wAUSKEAU to a cummins? Explain engine mounts, manifold, and clutch? thank you

Re(1): 1955 engine trouble IP: 68.152.9.254 Posted on May 2, 2003 at 12:15:10 AM by Shep VA

Check my cummins / oliver stuff out on my site and then email me questions if you have more. I have done 5 cummins conversions now and would be glad to help you with any questions you have. Sheps World

Re(2): 1955 engine trouble IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 06:19:50 AM by Larry Harsin

Shep is the guy to talk to, I have not done one. Larry

Oc3 wrist pins

IP: 170.215.247.235 Posted on May 1, 2003 at 07:58:25 AM by Paul

Hi I;m restoring an Oliver Oc3 and I'm looking for replacement wrist pins and bushing for this engine.If they are not available then I would like to get new piston then. The bore is 3 1/8 the wrist pin diam is .745 or equlivent to 3/4". Any infor would be greatful. Thanks Paul

Re(1): Oc3 wrist pins IP: 209.163.7.76 Posted on May 1, 2003 at 11:02:47 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman for info and parts for your OC3. Email: zoc@att.net.

2255 Clutch

IP: 65.161.254.244 Posted on April 30, 2003 at 11:13:18 PM by Scott

I recently bought a 2255. Looks good and runs great but it has a scraping/thumping noise when the clutch is out. Rattles the entire cab. The noise seems to come from the clutch area but it's hard to tell. Goes away when you put the clutch in. It's not so noticeable under a load. I was told by the previous owner that the clutch was replaced but it starting making this noise soon after and he parked it. I'm thinking it must be a throw out bearing. I suppose they could have done something else wrong when they put in the new clutch. Maybe they didn't install a new throw out bearing at the time. What do you think it could be? Do you know of any other possible causes? Are there any easy checks? Thanks for any suggestions you may have.

Re(1): 2255 Clutch IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on May 1, 2003 at 07:13:29 AM by Larry Harsin

That's going to be tough. I'm afraid you are going to have to pull it all back out of there and see what is going on. Something isn't right. Larry

1650 Steering

IP: 66.43.217.196 Posted on April 30, 2003 at 09:58:52 PM by Matt

I recently purchased a 1650 with almost everything new on it. (motor, tires, hydraulic pump, etc) I haven't used the hydrualics heavily yet, but the power steering is very stiff and doesn't seem to work very well. What are some possible problems? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 Steering IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on May 1, 2003 at 07:10:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I would first check for a sticky regulator spool in the flow divider. If that is o.k., try putting a shim or 2 on the relief valve spring to increase the pressure. Larry

Hydrulics

IP: 207.251.220.243 Posted on April 30, 2003 at 07:22:08 PM by Tim

I have an Oliver 1950, 4 yaers ago I had a new hydrulic pump put in it. The 3 point hitch and the remote cylinders rises real slow. The tractor has to be wide open to have any hydrulic pressure, at idle speeds the remote cylinders will settle. Is there a valve out of adjustment? If so where? It's a 4WD and the strearing seems to be fine. Thanks

Re(1): Hydrulics IP: 209.163.7.92 Posted on May 1, 2003 at 07:08:14 AM by Larry Harsin

Refer to your Operator's Manual for the correct adjustments of the 2 remote valves. Check the adjustment of the by-pass valve located on the right side of the unit, where your right foot would be when you are sitting on the tractor. It should be turned all the way in when you are using the 3 pt. and backed out 3 turns only when you are trying to operate a single acting cylinder on the right remote cylinder valve. You should check your operating pressures where you couple on to the remote valves. They should not be less than 1750 psi. You may have a malfunctioning by-pass valve. This valve is located on the front of the hydraulic unit pointed in from the right side. It is taken off with an inch and five sixteenths wrench. The earlier style is adjustable with shims, whereas the newer style by-pass valve is non-adjustable. I have seen these newer style valves where the spool was hung up in the bore, thus causing low system pressure. But this causes me some concern as you say your steering works fine. If this were the problem, I think your steering would be weak also. Anyway, make sure the spool is not stuck in the bore, providing this is how your tractor is equipped. Also, if you have this later style relief valve, there is a screen in there that is supposed to keep foreign material from causing the valves to stick. Quite often this screen will be ruptured and you will have to replace it. Larry

550 steering

IP: 205.188.208.70 Posted on April 29, 2003 at 08:36:10 PM by Tom O'Neill

Larry, I just aquired a 550 model 45-0711 serial 133062-583 it has an oliver backhoe and loader and I believe it is a industrial. Could you tell me when it was made? I have a shop manual with it but would like to get a owners manual. The power assist in the steering doesn't work. A rebuilt pump was put on it but didn't help. it has assist piston on it. Can you tell me if it is a industrial tractor and is the steering unit the same as the standard 550s? Can it be rebuilt? could it just be the seals in the assist pistons? How can I check? Any help you could give me would be appreciated much. Thanks, Tom

Re(1): 550 steering IP: 209.163.7.31 Posted on April 30, 2003 at 06:58:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 550 was built in 1963. Get an Operator's Manual from Charles City: fcsh@fiai.net. If it has a factory mounted loader and backhoe, it is an Industrial. It will have a non-adjustable front axle which has heaver spindles and hubs than a regular 550. However, the steering units are the same on both. I think your shop manual will tell you that the steering assist cylinders are not repairable as far as the piston seals are concerned. After you decide what you need, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He has handled a lot of 550 parts etc. Thanks for the compliments in our Guest Book. We enjoy the website very much. Larry

torche specs.

IP: 65.165.85.89 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 10:47:16 AM by Reta Doty

Larry, My husband has a Oliver 1800 ser.# 134428 He has to replace the head gasket & valve cover gasket and needs to know the torche specifications. Can you Help. Thank You R.Doty

Re(1): torche specs. IP: 209.163.7.83 Posted on April 29, 2003 at 06:57:06 PM by Larry Harsin

The head bolts are 130 ft. lbs. The oil cap screw is 120 ft. lbs. After you run the engine a bit, retorque the head bolts and readjust the valves. Larry

Re(2): torche specs. IP: 64.179.97.133 Posted on May 3, 2003 at 07:58:40 PM by Reta Doty

Larry, thanks your reply was just what Mike needed to know. We really like your site. It has been very helpful. Mike also has a 1939 BD Cletrac dozer that he is working on restoring that he may have a few questions about. Thanks again. Reta Doty

Re(3): torche specs. IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 05:54:04 AM by Larry Harsin

If you need information or parts for your Cletrac dozer, contact Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net. He is the Cletrac expert and sells parts. Larry

550 PTO

IP: 63.148.118.52 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 10:47:15 AM by R.B. Bozay

Larry: Recently aquired my second 550,a 1960 model. When engaging the PTO it becomes activated but the lever will not lock into the engaged position. I'm hoping this is a PTO clutch adjustment problem. This is a very good staight,tight tractor in all other respects.Thanks R.B.

Re(1): 550 PTO IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 12:59:31 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll just have to try to adjust it to get it to engage properly. If you can't, you will have to split the tractor and see what the problem is. Larry

cockshutt 1850

IP: 161.184.20.43 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 11:33:39 PM by David Wennerstrom

Both of my running 1850D's have some troubles. Tractor 'A' made a loud pop last year while harrowing about 30 hours after I put a new fuel pump and injectors on. I got a strong smoke blow out of the crankcase vent but no apparent leakage to the coolant side. I will be pulling the head off soon. What should I be looking for? Tractor'B' has a presistant habit of spitting copius amounts of Glycol out of the rad when running inspite of a new head gasket I installed last year. I have run the tractor all winter w/o trouble but it getting hot and hay season will be here soon. I did not see any cracks in the old head when I had it off. I have a second rebuilt head from another engine with about 300 hours on it to put in. I have been told that the seals around the liners will sometimes leak as well. How can I determine if this is the case when the head is off?

Re(1): cockshutt 1850 IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 12:57:25 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be a broken valve or a broken piston. Just look and see. It might just be a head pulled off of a piston. Tractor B: Are you sure that it is the engine causing the problem. It might be the radiator that needs to be taken apart and have the tubes cleaned. You may have a partially clogged radiator and it isn't allowing enough cooling in hot weather. Larry

Re(2): cockshutt 1850 IP: 161.184.63.177 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 10:33:32 PM by David

I am pretty sure the trouble with tractor "B" is in the engine as I have found the same trouble with three different albeit used rads. The fluid is pushed out of the rad and I can see bubbles forming from what must surely be exhaust. I recently removed the cap and noticed a puff of smoke syncronized with a slight miss/sputter of the engine.

Re(3):cockshutt 1850 IP: 12.172.240.89 Posted on April 29, 2003 at 03:59:58 PM by m kuhns

I would pull off your exhaust manifold and check to see if any of your exhaust ports are wet, caused by antifreeze. More than likely you have a cracked head like you say. It could be a head gasket seeping a little. Check all the fire rings where they seal on the liner flange and head. It should be nice and clean like fresh metal. IF it is somewhat dirty or a narrow seating groove by the fire ring the head gasket might be leaking. The liners are dry sleeves with no coolant around them.

Re(4):cockshutt 1850 IP: 161.184.16.225 Posted on April 29, 2003 at 07:42:16 PM by david

Thanks for the info. This will be a big help in locating my problem. I am hoping that the trouble is confined to the head as I have the spare and I really can not afford to pull the engines apart right now.

1450 diesel

IP: 216.43.119.227 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 09:10:21 PM by George

I recently bought this tractor the three point hitch wont go up if you manualy pull it up it slowly goes down what will correct this problem thanks a bunch

Re(1): 1450 diesel IP: 209.163.7.32 Posted on April 28, 2003 at 12:52:58 AM by Larry Harsin

I would drain out the hydraulic fluid and put in new. You will need to look in your Operator's Manual to see what to put into it. Then I would clean the hydraulic filter. It may be plugged. Then see if it works. Larry

Re(2): 1450 diesel IP: 216.43.119.227 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 10:43:04 PM by george

I'll give it a try let u know what happens Thank's P.S. where can i find a manual?

Re(3): 1450 diesel IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 05:57:03 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

1957 super 88 diesel

IP: 63.146.245.147 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 10:31:50 AM by Robert Klingensmith

I have a super 88 diesel that runs great. It sounds like it has a miss in it or a bad valve.It is currently in the shop.The mechanic says there is nothing wrong,that it's just what the injector pump sounds like.The sound is more pronounced at idle.I am unfamiliar with oliver and don't know what it should sound like.Does not smoke after it warms up.Thank You in advance,Robert

Re(1): 1957 super 88 diesel IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 06:53:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Possibly your mechanic has done this, but, I would check the valve adjustments. Then if they are o.k. I would probably remove the injectors and check them. Also, I would pull the caps off the energy cells and check them. You could have a plugged energy cell. Larry

1800a

IP: 63.146.245.147 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 10:21:39 AM by robert klingensmith

Hello, What would cause the 3pt to not go down? Also the power steering is weak, Does the power steering need overhauled? Would it just need new o-rings? THANK YOU Re(1): 1800a IP: 209.163.7.59 Posted on April 27, 2003 at 06:49:05 PM by Larry Harsin

The one-way bypass valve is maybe not seated. It's an adjustment you make on the right side of the unit. It's an external valve with a pipe on it. It needs to be closed. It should show you how in your Operator's Manual. It sounds like the hydraulic system could be weak and should be checked out. Has the hydraulic fluid been changed lately? Remove the hydraulic filter and see if there are any shavings or foreign material in it. You probably obtain a Service Manual for the hydraulic from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. It will have the specifications and procedures for diagnosing your problems. Larry

carburetor

IP: 24.205.136.50 Posted on April 26, 2003 at 08:46:59 PM by wayne mabb

where can i get akit to rebuild the carb on my 1943 mdl 70 or the name/address of someone who can rebuild it?

Re(1): carburetor IP: 209.163.7.86 Posted on April 26, 2003 at 08:53:50 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

Oliver 1650 gas

IP: 209.130.171.127 Posted on April 25, 2003 at 11:02:57 PM by Kevin coers

Larry I have a 1650 gas, the tractor will idle just find, when i give the throttle a nudge forward, it always wants to cough sputter and almost die. I just had the carb cleaned, new needle valve, etc.. It almost seems like the tractor is starving for fuel. I changed plugs in an attempt to alieviate the problem. no help...

Re(1): Oliver 1650 gas IP: 209.163.7.77 Posted on April 26, 2003 at 06:30:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the fuel strainer out of the bottom of your fuel tank and make sure it doesn't have an obstruction. Larry

Model 84 Oliver self propelled windrower

IP: 66.82.9.34 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 08:55:23 PM by Daniel Morris

I need a complete Oliver "60" row crop gas engine for it.I would prefer it not stuck but as long it's all there I could deal with it. That is all she lacks from being complete. Has anybody everseen one I would be happy send them pictures in the mail. I also need a manual for it if anybody has any info. please email me.

Re(1): Model 84 Oliver self propelled windrower IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on April 25, 2003 at 09:02:30 PM by Larry Harsin

For the engine, contact Doug Johnson at: 319-347-6332 or email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com or Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net. For a manual, contact Mary Ann at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

ignition on a 1943 oliver 70

IP: 24.205.17.223 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 08:16:48 PM by wayne mabb

does the wire that comes of from the magneto get wired to the ignition switch and if so does it have 6v to it to power the mag?

Re(1): ignition on a 1943 oliver 70 IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on April 25, 2003 at 08:58:45 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It is hooked to a switch so that it grounds the magneto. DO NOT RUN CURRENT INTO THE MAGNETO! The magneto has it's own power. Do not use a switch that feeds current to the magneto. Larry

head gasket

IP: 67.225.115.29 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 09:11:39 AM by Virgil Judd

My ol Oliver Super 55 4cyl.Gas(year is unknown) needs a new head gasket but I'm having a little problem locating one, anyone know where I can find one?

Re(1): head gasket IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 06:17:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He'll have one. Larry

super 88 diesel

IP: 64.68.165.189 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 10:43:03 PM by David Dahl`

this super 88 diesel has a hand clutch that moves the foot clutch when you push the handle forward. IS this rare or exactly what is this for. I ask because i have never seen one before

Re(1): super 88 diesel IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 06:14:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I've known of them. They were an option as a field installation package. One application was for pulling an Allis Chalmers round baler. Some people wanted a hand clutch for other reasons. They aren't common, but I have seen them. Larry

Cultivators

IP: 64.10.194.197 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 06:51:57 PM by Richard

Larry: I was at a sale this past weekend and I purchased 3 Oliver items. Two cultavators and a bean puller. Question is There are two different colours. One painted red has the number of RC996 on the lifting arm, the other on the same lifting arm is RC796 and its green. The puller has the same colour and number as the green lifting arm. Are they off two different tractor models or are they two different years of production/ Thanks Larry. Richard

Re(1): Cultivators IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 06:08:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. Contact Duane Starr at email: bastar@inetnebr.com. He may be able to help you. Larry

550 3 point ???

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 09:12:20 AM by Joe Shaffer

I have 1969, 550 and last night I was mowing with my bushog mower and I noticed that the 3 point was going up and down by it self. It would drop about maybe 1 inch (I think it was less) I'm waiting to get my service manual, so I have no idea if its low on fluid or is there something else wrong. Sorry for all the questions I'm new to tractors. But I'm having fun with it if that helps....hahahaha Thanks for the help... Joe Shaffer

Re(1): 550 3 point ??? IP: 209.163.7.67 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 12:30:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Check your fluid levels in the 3 pt. Larry

Re(2): 550 3 point ??? IP: 68.103.104.92 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 08:21:40 PM by Anonymous

Where do I check it at??? I do not have a book yet. Is there not a web site that post pictures/pages from a manual? Thanks

Re(3): 550 3 point ??? IP: 68.103.104.92 Posted on April 23, 2003 at 08:30:33 PM by Joe Shaffer

Hey Larry; A buddy of mine has a book that is for Ford 8N that has all kinds of part in it. Gages, fenders just about any thing thats for that tractor. Does anyone make a book like this for an Oliver 550??? Thanks again Joe

Re(4): 550 3 point ??? IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 11:57:31 AM by Joe Shaffer

OK one more thing Harry. Where can I find Pictures of a 550? I would like to know what this thing looked like new. I talked to my wife last night about doing a restore on this tractor because I like it so much. She said that would be fine... Thanks again...Joe

Re(5): 550 3 point ??? IP: 209.163.7.57 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 06:04:32 PM by Larry Harsin

When you get your Operator's Manual, you will have a picture of your tractor. Some of the parts will be pictured also. To check the fluid levels in your 3 pt. there should be a dipstick under the seat. (It's smaller than the dipstick sitting in the seat!! :-) :-) ) Put in 10w30 engine oil if it is low. As soon as you get your manual, check the whole tractor over -- all the fluid levels etc. Change all of them if it hasn't been done recently. Change the hydraulic filter also. Larry

Re(6): 550 3 point ??? IP: 208.10.124.64 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 06:58:16 PM by Larry from MD

For photos click on the Yesdurdays tractors link on larry's home page,then click photos on the left on that page.Click on olivers then type in 550 in the search.

Re(7): 550 3 point ??? IP: 68.103.104.92 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 08:15:44 PM by Joe Shaffer

Thanks Larry your the Best!... I also liked the dipstick comment, that was funny...hahahaha Where the best place to get parts that has a good selection at a fair price??? Thanks again Joe

Re(8): 550 3 point ??? IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on April 25, 2003 at 08:54:09 PM by Anonymous

Call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry

2255 three point lift

IP: 12.150.142.144 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 09:30:54 PM by Greg Davis

Larry, Do you have any experience with working on the valve that controls the three point hitch arms on a 2255? I recently bought one and the three point will not lower. Someone said it is a valve located just under the seat of the tractor. The remote hydraulics work and the pump is good. Any help would be appreciated. Greg

Re(1): 2255 three point lift IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on April 22, 2003 at 10:29:22 PM by Larry Harsin

You should have an Opertor's Manual and a Service Manual for this tractor. You can get one from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. I have not had this problem before. Larry

Re(2): 2255 three point lift IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on May 9, 2003 at 09:38:55 AM by Greg

Larry, It was a broken steel roll pin that connected the draft control linkage. Thanks. Greg

Re(3): 2255 three point lift IP: 209.163.7.6 Posted on May 9, 2003 at 10:15:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad you found the problem. Larry

550 front axle& steering

IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 07:15:50 PM by John

Will front axle from a 55 fit in a 550 using the 55 spindles, the axle that I want to put in is a double ajustable one the original was single. The next question is will the steering arms adjust enough to work on the with the double axle , thanks in advance.

Re(1): 550 front axle& steering IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 09:24:46 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that will work. Larry

550 decal

IP: 207.67.12.192 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 04:53:33 PM by Greg

Howdy... Putting some final touches on my newly rebuilt machine. Can anyone tell me if the "550" decals that are on the left and right sides of the hood slant forward or slant backward??

Re(1): 550 decal IP: 209.163.7.71 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 09:22:02 PM by Larry Harsin

They slant with top forward. Larry

1600

IP: 209.32.113.178 Posted on April 20, 2003 at 12:36:51 AM by Gary Jordet

I am thinking of purchasing an Oliver 1600 gas model, can you tell me what the PTO hp is? Thank You

Re(1): 1600 IP: 209.163.7.24 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 04:48:31 AM by Larry Harsin

The PTO hp. on an Oliver 1600 gas is 57. Larry

Oliver Super 55 3 Point

IP: 216.74.205.164 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 06:22:43 PM by Roger

My 3 pt. is stuck in the upward position. Doesn't matter where the control lever is moved.

Re(1): Oliver Super 55 3 Point IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 10:42:55 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing to check would be to make sure the 3 pt. has oil in it. If all the outside linkages look o.k. you may have to unbolt the top and take the hydraulic unit apart to find out what the problem is. You should get a Service Manual from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. I suspect you may have some broken linkage or a siezed control spool in the servo valve. Larry

1355 oliver

IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 05:30:50 PM by Paul Karlheim

I HAVE A 1355 OLIVER 4WD THAT I PUT A SPIDER CASE IN AND SOME NEW GEARS ON THE PINION SHAFT I NEED TO KNOW THE TORQUE SETTING FOR THE NUT ON THE PINION SHAFT AND WHATS THE BEST WAY TO HOLD EVERYTHING STILL SO I CAN TORQUE IT

Re(1): 1355 oliver IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 10:38:53 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have that information. You can get a shop manual from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

66 Orchard

IP: 216.95.136.35 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 02:38:45 PM by Richard

In getting my orchard out from winter storage, I found it was almost impossible to steer. I lifted the side shields and squirted some penetrating oil on the universals. What might it be? Where to start? Thanks

Re(1): 66 Orchard IP: 209.163.7.75 Posted on April 19, 2003 at 10:36:52 PM by Larry Harsin

The universal joints are the most likely problem and you worked on that. Also, check the steering gear box and make sure it has grease in it. Also check to see if the kingpins on the wheels are greased. Larry

2-70 HYDRULICS/LOADER

IP: 152.163.189.168 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 01:32:10 PM by RYAN GILBERT

Hi Larry, Today I kinda got my 2-70 4x4 stuck a lil and went to put the loader down to lift the front up and it did not work and the loader now will not go up or down, or tilt I checked the fluid and it was low so I added some and still the same thing it did start working a lil bit but very very slow and no power at all then stoped workin at all again .Its plumbed into the remotes I took the hose off released some fluid and still the same. We dont have a white dealer out here and I dont have much money. If ya could help It would be great thanks

Re(1): 2-70 HYDRULICS/LOADER IP: 152.163.188.199 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 03:09:36 PM by RYAN GILBERT

Update, I took the releave valve out put it back in now it goese up and down faster not right but faster but will not lift any weight loader has no power ohhhh! Thanks in advance larry.

Re(2): 2-70 HYDRULICS/LOADER IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 10:31:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your relief valve is sticking open. You need to get it so it will slide back and forth in the piece that it sets in. That little plunger in there is sticking. There is a little brass screen in there behind that relief valve that needs to be replaced or cleaned. If that little screen is ruined, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, and get a new one. You may be able to get yours to work, but if it is damaged you should get a new one. I would also reccommend that you get a new hydraulic filter and install it at the same time if you havn't already done so. Larry

1850 COVER

IP: 144.92.164.199 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 10:04:37 AM by mm

Larry: I own a 1850 with dual mount tanks. I would like to replace the value cover this weekend. What exactly do I have to do to get at the value cover, Is the front fuel tank in the way. ?

Re(1): 1850 COVER IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 10:23:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You will have to raise the tank up far enough to remove the valve cover. It is hinged at the back so you just use something to lift the front end of tank up and hold it while you are working on the valve cover. Larry

12 volt conversion

IP: 209.103.239.3 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 09:40:51 AM by Jason Scholten

We own an Oliver 77 Standard, and want to convert it over to 12 volt negative ground. (It currently is stock, 6 volt positive ground.) What is all involved in this, and are there any suprises I will run into? We plan on swaping the lights over to 12 volt bulbs, and I know I will need a new ignition coil, but what about the charging system, ect. Thanks in advance, Jason

Re(1): 12 volt conversion IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 10:20:37 PM by Larry Harsin

If you put a 12 volt generator on it, it will remain positive ground. If you put an alternator on it, it will have to be negative ground. In my opinion, it would be very simple to install a 12 volt generator and put on a new 12 volt regulator and a resistor ahead of the ignition coil. Larry

radiator cap door clips

IP: 141.151.39.74 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 07:01:03 AM by Dan

Larry, Can you replace the spring clips that hold the door for the radiator cap down on my 60 and where would I get one? Thanks, Dan

Re(1): radiator cap door clips IP: 209.163.7.45 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 07:57:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have them. Try Korves Bros. Email korves@htc.net Web: www.korvesoliver.com Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry

1850 gas vapor locking

IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on April 15, 2003 at 10:26:50 PM by Steve

Larry, Out in the field this afternoon (85 degrees)with my 1850 gas, it would cut out at full throttle. If I would slow down to 1000 RPM, it would come out of it. I could sometimes make a couple of round at 2000 Rpm before it would act up. I've drained the sediment bowl, changed my in-line filter, checked the screen at the carb, and replaced the rubber seals on the gas lines. Still didn't help. There seems to be good gas flow when the motor is not running.Is this vapor locking? Have you encountered this problem before? Thanks for your help. Steve

Re(1): 1850 gas vapor locking IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 05:55:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is vapor locking. One thing you can do is remove the side panels from the sides of the engine. That lets heat escape from the tank. Also, you probably have what we call "winter grade" gasoline. The next batch you get from your supplier should be less prone to do this. Oliver had an improvement package that had a heat shield and insulation for those tanks. You might be able to fabricate something with tin and fiberglas to help eliminate this condition. Larry

Carter Carb

IP: 204.101.190.159 Posted on April 15, 2003 at 08:18:36 PM by Paul

Can you tell me can I get a carter Carb kit for my 1955 Super 55 or can you give me a TSX number for a replacement Marvel Schebler. Doesn't seem to want to regulate the full enough with out shutting off and will let tractor flood at a low rpm thus float either sticking or has a hole and satuated. Thanks Paul in Ontario

Re(1): Carter Carb IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 05:50:07 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get parts for the Carter carb from Case/IH. They used that carb on the Super C Farmall, so you can get the parts from them. You probably need a new needle and seat. My info says that a Marvel Schebler TSX03 or TSX694 will work on that tractor. Valu-Bilt's catalog says that they have these. 888-828-3276. Good Luck! I have a hard time getting through their telephone system. Larry

1555 hydrolics

IP: 208.10.125.203 Posted on April 15, 2003 at 05:59:32 PM by Larry from MD

I just hooked my 1555 to a planter with hydrolic markers.When only one set of hoses are on that fuction works fine ,but with both connected when you move the marker lever the planter raises.It rises if a marker is being raised or lowered.I have the new style non adjustable restrictors.Any ideas on a fix I have tried switching hoses.

Re(1): 1555 hydrolics IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 05:44:40 AM by Larry Harsin

This is going to call for using an external control valve to control the markers. You'll have to plumb into the unit at the power beyond port and run the oil through the external control valve. Your difficulty is a common problem with this hydraulic system. You will need an open center valve to do this. Larry

Re(2): 1555 hydrolics IP: 67.0.84.226 Posted on April 22, 2003 at 10:26:07 PM by Dean Barker

You had me worried, Larry. I am going to use my 1655 diesel on the 5100 White planter for the first time. I hooked it up this evening, and it worked fine. I thought the 1555 and 1655 would have the same hydraulics; are they different?

Re(3): 1555 hydrolics IP: 209.163.7.4 Posted on April 22, 2003 at 10:32:16 PM by Larry Harsin

No, they are the same. You are lucky. You may find when you get to planting that your markers will start coming up. Larry

Re(4): 1555 hydrolics IP: 67.0.85.171 Posted on April 24, 2003 at 10:23:27 PM by Dean Barker

Larry--I talked to a neighbor that used his 1655 diesel on a 5100 White planter and everything worked ok. We both have the detent hydraulics instead of the hydra-electric. Would that make a difference? I sure don't want to have problems once I start planting.

Re(5): 1555 hydrolics IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on April 25, 2003 at 09:17:20 PM by Larry Harsin

They may have the White Planter plumbed so that it works with an Oliver tractor. It sure should be. You'll just have to see how it works. Larry

Re(6): 1555 hydrolics IP: 67.0.84.204 Posted on May 5, 2003 at 00:04:55 AM by Dean Barker

Hi Larry--Planted 160 acres of corn with the 1655 and 5100 planter; everything worked just fine. I like the 1655 diesel better every time I use it. Is there a way to adjust the kickout pressure on the detent valves?

Re(7): 1555 hydrolics IP: 209.163.7.38 Posted on May 6, 2003 at 06:03:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Not that I am aware of, I don't think there is. I'm sure glad it all worked for you. I agree with you, I think the 1655 is a GREAT TRACTOR. Larry

77

IP: 65.173.213.167 Posted on April 15, 2003 at 04:20:32 PM by Dale G

I have a 77 gas that was set at 2100 rpm for pulling and now wide open is only around 1600. I checked the linkage and it is not binding or slipped.When I put a load on it the governor opens up and it has power it's just running 500 rpm less than it was.What do you think? Thanks in advance!!!!!

Re(1): 77 IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 05:39:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Maybe the governor spring has become weak. Strecthed or something. Larry

Cochshutt 550

IP: 138.129.124.138 Posted on April 15, 2003 at 12:12:31 AM by Dale

Do you have experience with the pre-Oliver Cochshutt tractors? Mine is a Cochshutt 550 (1959 model year), and the problem is that the transmission input shaft continues to spin with the clutch engaged, therefore causing difficult shifting. I've replaced the clutch pressure plate, and clutch disk, it is adjusted properly, and with the engine off and clutch engaged the input shaft spins freely. The only thing I can imagine is that the pto shaft, which is inside the transmission input shaft, somehow is involved. Is that possible? Any ideas?

Re(1): Cochshutt 550 IP: 209.163.7.11 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 05:37:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not experienced with that particular model, but that sounds logical. Larry

couple of things ?

IP: 216.81.222.35 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 08:23:00 PM by Howard Clark

My neighbor has been unable to find a fuel cap for his 1755, it seems like that should be a common item ? Suggestions ? Is it possible to run a one way hydraulic cylinder off the outlets plumed on my 1855, or do I have to add something ?

Re(1): couple of things ? IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 10:22:32 PM by Larry Harsin

They have them at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. All you need to do to run your one way hydraulic cylinder is plug the hose into your Quick coupler and there you go. It should explain this in your Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): couple of things ? IP: 216.81.222.104 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 12:26:49 AM by Howard Clark

Thanks Larry. I did not get a reply back from the place you suggested to get an owner's manual from, so I do not yet have one of them. I did get an IT shop manual, and an OEM parts book, which are very helpful. I will steer my neighbor to O'Brien. Thanks again.

Re(3): couple of things ? IP: 209.163.7.26 Posted on April 17, 2003 at 10:36:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to get an Operators' Manual from Mary Ann at Charles City. She did change the email address to: fchs@fiai.net. You may be able to get an Operator's Manual from Tom also. Larry

made in italy??

IP: 128.84.20.237 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 09:10:20 AM by tom janda

Were any Oliver tractors ever made in Italy? I can't find any Oliver history refering to this tractor. Its Green with the square front. I don't know much about tractors, but I need to purchase one this year and this one is available in my area. Thanks for any info/advice.

Re(1): made in italy?? IP: 24.159.35.152 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 07:53:11 PM by michael mccloud

stay away from the fiat olivers, can not get parts. I had a 1250 and was glad to get rid of it, traded on super 55. The 1450 are the worst as far as parts then the 1250, i do have a few parts left if anyone is interested. hope this helps.

Re(2): made in italy?? IP: 209.163.7.3 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 08:11:19 PM by Larry Harsin

There were Olivers made in Italy by Fiat. They are good little tractors, but parts availability is a problem. The 1250 gas was made in such limited quanitity that you just can hardly get parts for them. The others are a little bit better, but still some things are hard to find. Larry

Re(3): made in italy?? IP: 68.155.12.226 Posted on April 16, 2003 at 08:37:41 PM by george Steadman

The 1250 and 1450 were the early ones the 1265 ,1365 and 1465 were tough machines, parts are easier for the 65 and 70 versions. If it is a 1250 you might try Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg,TN 423 581 5557 he has junked out several and has some new stuff on the shelf.

RC66 axle

IP: 12.166.19.228 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 08:50:50 PM by Jason Lawyer

The left rear axle on my 1953 row crop 66 has end play of about 1/4" to 1/2" of in and out. How do you fix this? The outer bearing appears to be in good shape. If the axle is pushed in there is no play. Thank you for your time and helpful information. Keep up the good work on "The right color green".

Re(1): RC66 axle IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 06:45:53 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to remove the top cover for the bull gears. Then remove the snap ring that holds the left hand bull gear. Then remove the 4 cap screws that hold the cap on the axle housing. Then remove the rear axle and find out what the problem is. I suspect the inner bearing is going to need to be replaced. Larry

1750loader

IP: 65.56.11.48 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 08:47:29 PM by john bedwell

hi larry, obrien co impl. claims a miller loader for a 1750 would be a good 1 for the money, what do u think? i dont know much about a miller loader, im ready to order somethimg, indpls in.

Re(1): 1750loader IP: 209.163.7.48 Posted on April 14, 2003 at 06:42:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree. Larry

Re(2): 1750loader IP: 216.16.11.102 Posted on April 21, 2003 at 04:10:17 PM by tony

Koyker makes a good loader for that tractor!

Water pump Oliver 70

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 05:47:19 PM by Larry

I need to overhaul the waterpump on my Oliver 70. Do you know of a place in western Iowa or Omaha, NE that does this type of work? Are there kits available? Thanks.

Re(1): Water pump Oliver 70 IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 08:16:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Call Valu-Bilt in Indianola IA 888-828-3276. They will do an exchange with you or would repair yours. Either way it will cost the same. Kits are not available as this isn't something you can do yourself. Larry

Oliver 770 repair

IP: 66.231.32.14 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 01:19:13 PM by Kenneth

I have an Oliver 770 and it had sit for a spell (about two years). After I got it running the clutch would not push in so the tractor would not go in gear. Is there a way to un stick this thing. I tried poping it in gear at low idle to unfreeze it but it didn't work. Also, it is leaking fluid through the disk brake area on the right side. My hydraulic fluid keeps runnihng out. Is there a gasket there or is it under the hydraulic pump housing where its going on through? I started her up today too and tried to move it by "popping it in gear" and it makes a thunk thnuk thunk noise, and won't move. I acts like it wants to though. I wonder if the fluid levels being depleted will prevent it from moveing? My pto shaft will not disengage either..Any suggestions, besides taking it to a real mechanic? Thanks so much. Kenneth

Re(1): Oliver 770 repair IP: 209.163.7.55 Posted on April 13, 2003 at 08:13:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you should have a professional check it out. It's probably going to need pump seals and bearing on the hydraulic. The engine clutch will have to be repaired. The PTO clutch will be removed to work on the hydraulic, so they can check it out at that time. Larry

1955 eng

IP: 155.147.14.9 Posted on April 10, 2003 at 12:55:13 AM by Jack

I have a 1955 that needs a new eng. It has a broken crank. I understand this is a common problem. I live in Fla which is JD country. No Oliver Experts down here. Any suggestions.

Re(1): 1955 eng IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on April 10, 2003 at 06:38:14 PM by Larry Harsin

You might want to consider a Cummins Repower. Or you can get a new crankshaft from Steiner Tractor Parts for $1000. Their website is: steinertractor.com. Larry

Oliver 1850 Hydra-Power Trans Knock

IP: 205.188.208.40 Posted on April 9, 2003 at 10:10:32 PM by Jerry - Ohio

I have an Oliver 1850 with the Perkins power. I have a loud knocking coming from behind the engine when the shifter is in a certain position. When the Gear shifter is in the Higher gears (6th half) even in Neutral there is a loud knocking. The knocking increases in speed when the Hydra-Power is put into high range. THe noise stops when the shifter is put into the lower gears (1st half). The noise isn't noticeable when it is in high or low range when the trasn shifter is in the low gear half. There is NO visible broken gears or bearings when looking in/at the Trasns/rearend. Looking for Suggestions.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 Hydra-Power Trans Knock IP: 209.163.7.96 Posted on April 10, 2003 at 06:31:38 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it's sort of a normal thing. It could be worn splines and sprockets on the chain coupling. This is not unusual. Larry

Oliver 1950 HP

IP: 207.251.211.168 Posted on April 9, 2003 at 08:44:47 PM by Tim B.

I'm looking to increase the horsepower out of my Oliver 1950 w/ GM 4-53 engine. I've got new injectors that will increase about 25 horsepower, so I will have about 130 HP, is the Hydra-power and transmission be able to handle the extra power? Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1950 HP IP: 67.209.200.109 Posted on April 9, 2003 at 10:15:12 PM by WFE

Running a 1950-T at 150 pto hp with an Over/Under. No problems getting it to the ground. Did make sure pressure plate was still up to spec. The springs can weaken with age and may need to be shimmed with washers (cheap fix) or replaced.

Re(2): Oliver 1950 HP IP: 209.163.7.53 Posted on April 10, 2003 at 06:34:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it would work o.k. Just use a little judgement about the loads you pull etc. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1950 HP IP: 67.209.252.18 Posted on April 10, 2003 at 11:11:23 PM by WFE

Remembered that there is a difference in the rear ends of the 1950 GM and most 1950-Ts. Most Ts (all but the very early ones) came with a bolster for the bull pinions. You can tell if one has them by looking at the belly of the rear end housing. If these bolsters are present, you will see two capscrew heads on the belly, one for each bull pinion, that are positioned roughly in line with the bull pinion shaft/brake disk housings. Early models apparently had a few problems, as the T's tended to go out the door pretty hot.

loader for 770

IP: 207.86.249.232 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 07:35:31 PM by Norm Orrall

I would like to put a Westendorf loader on my father's 770 wide front. I saw one on an 880 on this site. Can I put one on the 770?

Re(1): loader for 770 IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 10:22:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will work just fine. It will handle a 7 ft. bucket. Larry

Oliver 66 Diesel Question

IP: 64.252.47.87 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 01:47:27 PM by Jon

Hi, I have a 66 Diesel that needs to have the fuel injector lines replaced. I purchased a set of lines but I am unsure as to the proper method of changing the lines and bleeding them. (This is the first diesel I have owned) Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 66 Diesel Question IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 10:21:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Get things cleaned up good before you start. Remove the old lines and put on the new ones being careful not to get dirt in them. Don't tighten them at the injector. After you get everything installed, crank the engine to fill the lines with fuel. When they start dripping then tighten them and start the tractor. Larry

oliver 1610 loader

IP: 63.162.166.98 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 11:33:26 AM by bob m

Will an oliver 1610 loader fit an IH 886 tractor? What do you think of this? What kind of lifting capacity do you think it has? Thanks, Bob

Re(1): oliver 1610 loader IP: 209.163.7.64 Posted on April 8, 2003 at 10:17:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I think it will fit. The 1610 loader is not a premium heavy duty loader. It is a light to medium duty loader. Fairly good lifting capacity. Larry

Re(2): oliver 1610 loader IP: 63.162.166.98 Posted on April 12, 2003 at 12:36:21 AM by bobm

Thanks for the advice Bob

1850 hydrapower

IP: 207.162.163.19 Posted on April 7, 2003 at 05:04:54 PM by tommy cannon

Just got my crank ground and am ready to see about the hydrapower. I didn't check the pressure before I removed the motor, so I don't know what kind of pressure it had. You had to pull hard on the lever to get it into low and it would shift back into hi. The oil would get hot when it was in low, but not when in hi.Do you have any suggestions as what to look for when we take it apart? I have studied the IT manual and it doesn't address my problem. If we can't find anything does it do any harm to just run it in direct and not ever use the low side? Any suggestions would be appreciated. There isn't anyone left in this part of the country that is familiar with olivers(NW Tenn or SW KY). Thanks TC

Re(1): 1850 hydrapower IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on April 7, 2003 at 07:47:00 PM by Larry Harsin

The only thing that I can think of is that on the input drive hub, where the drive hub drives the clutch discs there could be notches worn into the hub. If you find this to be, you will need a new drive hub. I think you will understand what I am talking about when you disassemble the unit and look at it. I may have a hub if you need one. Email me at: cobalt@rconnect.com if you need it. It doesn't harm it to just run it in direct and never use the low side. Another thing to check while you are looking at this is the condition of the clutch discs and the separator plates. Make sure they are not warped or distorted. Larry

Re(2): 1850 hydrapower IP: 208.10.125.168 Posted on April 9, 2003 at 07:37:10 PM by Larry from MD

If the hand lever is pushing its self back into high,then you have hydrolic preasure building up on one side of the valve.You need to clean the cover and valves and open all the holes in the cover and make sure the return hole is open.

Re(3): 1850 hydrapower IP: 207.162.163.19 Posted on April 11, 2003 at 09:16:47 PM by TC

That is exactly what is happening and the oil gets hot in low. I have the unit in the floor and about to start putting the motor back together. I was at a white dealer Wed. trying to figure out what I needed to start on the Hydrapower. So i need to remove the sidecover and make sure everything is open? Which is the return , is it the rubber hose? Do I need to order the overhaul package? Any help would be appreciated there isn't anyone left in this part of the country familar with olivers. Another question is my power steering cylinder id leaking around the shaft is my problem the o ring around the shaft or the quad ring, if it is the oring does the cylinder have to be completely dissisembled ? I have studied the IT manual and parts diagram and haven't figured it out. Thanks for your help. TC

Re(4): 1850 hydrapower IP: 209.163.7.35 Posted on April 12, 2003 at 09:59:34 PM by Larry Harsin

The rubber hose carries the high pressure oil that pressurizes the direct-drive clutch. Don't order an overhaul package yet. You may need to take the pressure regulating spool out of the body and see if it is sticking in the housing. It should be free to slide back and forth. You also need to remove the spring with the plunger that controls the low pressure circuit. It is just below the regulator spool. That poppit on the spring tends to wear through the cast iron seat in the housing. You can obtain a new seat from your AGCO dealer. This helps in directing oil through the oil cooler. On your power steering cylinder leak, you can replace the "O" ring and the quad ring without having to disassemble the power steering cylinder. I think it would be best if you unhook the cylinder and remove it from the tractor frame. Then simply push the sector gear up out of there and replace those rings. Watch the timing marks on the sector and the piston rack. Larry

550 Oliver Oil Seal

IP: 63.164.24.122 Posted on April 7, 2003 at 07:43:04 AM by Don Cyr

Looking for info on the proper timing cover seal for my 550 Oliver . It is a gas engine #26848 Mod.#45-0704 Ser.#123-645-519 . Any information on the year of this tracter , tech manuals,part manuals , would be very helpful . I live in buckfield , Maine and my home phone # is 207-336-3624 E-Mail is sandra@megalink.net Thanks Don Cyr

Re(1): 550 Oliver Oil Seal IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on April 7, 2003 at 07:40:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 550 was built in 1962. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual from Mary Ann in Charles City at: fchs@fiai.net. I think the timing cover seal is a spring loaded cork. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Don C. Chandler at Lovell ME might have the parts you need. 207-935-3339. Larry

hydraulics

IP: 68.10.27.17 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 07:30:10 PM by Jessie

I have a 1955 Super55, the hydraulics will work, but will not lift a load very well. I hooked up to a small camper with the draw bar and tried to raise the tounge a little but it would not raise. It will hold the weight but will not pick it up. I did not let the tractor run but for about 15 minuits before moving the trailer, should I let it warm up longer or is the pump in need of an overhaul or is there an adjustment somewhere. any info would be great. Thanks.

Re(1): hydraulics IP: 209.163.7.90 Posted on April 7, 2003 at 07:34:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suggest changing the fluid in it. If that doesn't help, then I would say you are going to have to take it apart and repair the pump. I would guess that the pump is worn out, but I would try new fluid first. I would put in the fluid that is reccommended in the Operator's Manual or if you don't have one, I would use 10w30 engine oil. Larry

Re(2): hydraulics IP: 68.10.27.17 Posted on April 9, 2003 at 06:29:49 PM by Jessie

Thanks Larry

"77"

IP: 64.208.116.39 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 04:13:34 PM by kmedchill

CAN I PUT A SET OF 88 PISTON AND SLEEVES IN THE BLOCK OF A 77 IF I MACHINE THE SLEEVES TO THE RIGHT LENTH? ORARE THE PIN HOLES IN THE PISTONS DIFERENT?

Re(1): 77 IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:57:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I would not reccommend that!!!! The pin holes are different and that is part of the problem. I would reccommend a 3 and 5/8 overbore sleeve assembly, which would be the same as a 1550 gas. This works out quite well. Larry

S55 tach

IP: 67.115.60.215 Posted on April 5, 2003 at 11:23:10 PM by Mark

Larry: I have a 1958 Super 55 with a frozen tachometer. Any sugestions? Thanks.

Re(1): S55 tach IP: 216.46.194.107 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 01:45:50 PM by Mel

Does the cable turn? If the drive is alright you may need a new one.

Re(2): S55 tach IP: 209.163.7.79 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 06:54:21 PM by Larry Harsin

If the tach cable is turning and the tach doesn't work, sometimes they can be repaired at an AGCO Dealership. I believe Korves Bros. have new ones. korves@htc.net. Larry

Re(3): S55 tach IP: 12.172.242.100 Posted on April 6, 2003 at 08:17:24 PM by m kuhns

I would check what the other fellows said, but make sure the tach turns also where the cable goes in. Just about ruined a tach cable that way a month ago. THe tach in our 1750 didn't operate for awhile and just happened to try and turn the cable before attaching it to the engine and it did't budge. Anyhow, if you need a new tach, call Maibach's in Ohio. They have aftermarket tachs for the 55's that look original.

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