"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - April, 2007 Archives


Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 24.197.199.23 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 01:09:40 PM by Blake

I have a oliver 88, when pressing the clutch in and when releasing, the clutch shaft has a wobble to it, i checked the coupler, and its ok, but i did notice that when i had it apart that if you push the clutch shaft into the pilot bearing, the slot to put the bolts in sticks out of the coupler...should it do this, becuase i think my wobble is that the shaft isnt sitting in the pilot bearing...do i have the wrong coupker...or clutch shaft or...any advise?

Re(1): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 216.46.211.228 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 06:05:49 PM by rrlund

Don't want to steal Larrys thunder,but this is a clasic case of a bad pilot bushing. There is not a pilot bearing in those,only a brass bushing inside the hub in the center of the flywheel.

Re(2): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 24.197.199.23 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 07:27:32 PM by BlakeG

Actually it does have a pilot bearing, trust me im not some yahoo, becuase i just put a new one in!

Re(3): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 67.2.242.125 Posted on May 5, 2007 at 09:37:22 PM by Larry Harsin

That clutch shaft may be wrong. When you put the ball bearing pilot in, it requires a different shaft. The shaft is about the same length, but it has a different end on it to match up with the bearing. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 216.46.210.142 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 01:35:54 PM by rrlund

Larry,was a ball bearing pilot standard on the later 88s or something,or was it an update? I've never seen one,but then that's why I read these things is to learn.

Re(5): Oliver 88 clutch shaft

IP: 67.2.248.71 Posted on May 6, 2007 at 05:36:18 PM by Larry Harsin

It was standard on the later 88's. There was a change-over pkg. so that you could change your bushing type pilot over to a ball bearing type. The pkg. consisted of the drive hub with the pilot bearing, longer flywheel bolts and the new style clutch shaft. Larry


Oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 71.215.128.53 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 02:24:01 PM by ernie firestone

does this tractor have a differential lock? would be handy when plowing... and it is working good even without the lock...

Re(1): Oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 67.2.249.234 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 09:25:02 PM by Larry Harsin

No. It does not have a differential lock. Larry

Re(2): Oliver model 1955, year 1974

IP: 71.215.128.53 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 09:46:09 PM by e firestone

thankyou, i kind of figured that was the case..i do like the tractor.. a real cadillac...


Oliver 1450 injectors

IP: 70.100.225.222 Posted on May 2, 2007 at 04:40:42 PM by Herb

I need one injector for my 1450 i am haveing troble finding one i was told the injectors from a 1465 are the same if not where would i get one thank you

Re(1): Oliver 1450 injectors

IP: 67.2.249.63 Posted on May 2, 2007 at 10:44:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200 Website: www.centralfuelinjection.com Larry


Super 55 hydraulic lever

IP: 66.109.153.81 Posted on May 1, 2007 at 08:37:37 AM by Donald Buelke

The hydraulic control lever "free-falls" and must be held at the stop or held by hand. I was attempting to install a new friction disk, but I can't remove the friction plate from the control shaft. Removing the lock nut and trying to pry or unscrew it has been unsuccessful and I don't want to damage it by trying too hard. From what I see in the manual, it should be removable externally. I suspect the alloy friction plate has fused to the steel control shaft over time, but I'm uncertain if it should unscrew or pry off. I've tried heating it with a torch without success, too. Suggestions appreciated.

Re(1): Super 55 hydraulic lever

IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on May 1, 2007 at 05:06:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Time and corrosion have made it difficult to deal with. I heated mine up and tightened it up and let it go at that. If you want to get it apart, you might have to take the whole unit off of the tractor and that would be a JOB! Possibly you could cut a slot in the friction disc so that you could slide a new one in behind. You'd have to cut it to slide it over the shaft. This way you wouldn't have to take it apart. Larry


Super 88

IP: 207.177.100.108 Posted on April 30, 2007 at 09:27:12 PM by Aaron

We are in the midst of restoring our Super 88. We are leaning towards automotive paint rather than "authentic" oliver green paint because of its ease to apply. what is your opinion on restoring in such a manner?

Re(1): Super 88

IP: 67.2.249.46 Posted on April 30, 2007 at 10:50:56 PM by Larry Harsin

That's o.k. But one thing I like about the AGCO Meadow Green, is you can get it in spray cans for touch-up, and it will match. Larry

Re(2): Super 88

IP: 12.226.103.141 Posted on May 2, 2007 at 08:58:11 PM by oliverequip

Larry's right, the AGCO paint is convenient, but I have painted 3 Olivers and used Dupont Centari single stage acrylic enamal (automotive paint) with hardener. It runs about $125/gallon. The paint job turned out really nice and has not faded one bit. Also you might know this, but from 1954-1956, the wheels are green on Supers and in 1957, they changed to red. If you use automotive paint, www.olivertractor.com has paint codes for Dupont, PPG, Martin Senour.

Re(3): Super 88

IP: 72.198.206.229 Posted on May 3, 2007 at 05:47:16 PM by Larry Kruse

I have used the DuPont paint. The paint supplier where I buy it will put some into aerosol cans. It costs more, but you have small quanties readily avalable to paint those hard to reach areas as you put it back together before you put on the final coat of paint.


Super 88 Gas engine

IP: 75.130.30.237 Posted on April 30, 2007 at 08:56:35 PM by Karl

What spark plugs would you install in a super 88 ? It has a champion #21 and others are a # 16.

Re(1): Super 88 Gas engine

IP: 67.2.249.46 Posted on April 30, 2007 at 10:47:51 PM by Larry Harsin

I would use the #16. Larry


Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 64.136.49.226 Posted on April 29, 2007 at 08:08:13 PM by 230jdb

Can you tell me what type of oil is recommended for a 77 diesel?

Re(1): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.50 Posted on April 29, 2007 at 09:28:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I use 10w30 Series 3 Diesel Oil. Larry


Fleetline PTO cover

IP: 12.189.32.38 Posted on April 28, 2007 at 03:09:44 PM by Greg

Larry, I have removed the complete PTO assy from my Oliver 88 Rowcrop to replace 540 shaft seal. The front bearing that supports the end of the 540 pto shaft has a cover over it that is open in the center. The picture of this part #1K-1024 shows it to be a enclosed cover. When I removed the snap ring from the end of the PTO shaft, I did not have to remove this cover. It appears to me this cover should be enclosed to prevent oil from leaking out of bearing. My local AGCO dealer cannot find a replacement part available anymore. Do you know if this part is available from anyone else?

Re(1): Fleetline PTO cover

IP: 67.2.242.54 Posted on April 29, 2007 at 00:16:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will be able to help you. Larry


1650 oliver

IP: 216.78.37.245 Posted on April 27, 2007 at 09:02:14 PM by Dave

My 1650 oliver has a hydraulic pump problem. When I removed the seat and all the bolts on the transmission cover. The cover would not release from the housing. I applied 100-150 pounds of pressure,but it still did not release. Am I missing some bolts or other fastners?

Re(1): 1650 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.136 Posted on April 28, 2007 at 05:40:19 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 long bolts on the pump housing, right behind the hydraulic filter. They are 3/8 bolts with 9/16 heads. These have to be removed before you can remove the hydraulic housing from the tractor. Larry

Re(2): 1650 oliver

IP: 216.78.40.122 Posted on May 4, 2007 at 06:03:40 PM by Dave

The two bolts that you stated were under the filter housing had been removed and the transmisson cover still would not release. Is there some connection with the hydraulic system or the draft control that must be remove?

Re(3): 1650 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.10 Posted on May 4, 2007 at 09:02:56 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a linkage (pin) on the outside of the unit on the left side. Have you removed that? If all of the bolts are out, use a chain hoist to lift it and use a hammer and chisel and get it broken loose. Those gaskets can be pretty sticky sometimes. Larry


60 starter

IP: 71.192.32.194 Posted on April 25, 2007 at 08:25:59 PM by Chris

Larry - the starter on my 1947 Oliver 60 needs to be replaced. I pulled it off and it is a 6v delco - part #1109452. The tractor was converted to 12v several years ago by it's previous owner. Will a 12v starter from a 66 work with my 60? My thought was that a 12v starter would last longer and parts for a 66 would be easier to find. I'm just not sure of what type of revisions were made to the engine from the 60 to the 66. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re(1): 60 starter

IP: 67.2.248.52 Posted on April 25, 2007 at 10:01:58 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That 66 starter won't work. Have your 60 starter repaired and it will work again. Or, you can call Valu-Bilt and get a rebuilt one. You can give them your part number. 888-828-3276. Larry


Oliver 1750 Water in Cylinder and Oil

IP: 63.229.175.52 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 07:54:22 PM by matt

I was able to get a 1750 running which was sitting for years. It has 3100 orginal hours on it and I think the engine was rebuild once. I was able to get it running and it ran well, Decided to adjust valves, and it ran great. Then It began starting hard, so I Thought A valve or two were sticking and lossing compression. I found that two valves were stuck open so i cleaned them up and adjusted valves, and ran a compression test. All cylinders but the #4 were at 150lbs. #4 before I could run the test had mist coming out of the cylinder. I decided to crank it over and it spit out water. Then we pressured the Radiator and after we put pressure on the rad,we turned it over and water just ran out. Question is would a head gasket cause water in cylinder and oil pan?? I am getting the head checked, looks great like it has very few hours on it. Only one cylinder had waterin it, and hte block water jackets are still holding water, so I dont think it is a sleeve. Any IDEAS???

Re(1): Oliver 1750 Water in Cylinder and Oil

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 11:07:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It's possible that it could be a head gasket. You should be able to see if the head gasket is leaking water into the cylinder. You may be right, but look closely at the area at the top of the #4 sleeve and see if there is a crack about 1/2" down and running around the circumference of the sleeve. With this condition, if it was cracked, I would think you would be getting some compression into the water jacket as well as water into the cylinder. Larry


rocker arm shaft

IP: 69.177.129.216 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 06:29:06 PM by frank

can you tell me where i can get a new rocker arm shaft for a 53 77. i need it to be new.. thks. for the help

rocker arm shaft

IP: 69.177.129.216 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 06:29:06 PM by frank

can you tell me where i can get a new rocker arm shaft for a 53 77. i need it to be new.. thks. for the help

Re(1): rocker arm shaft

IP: 67.2.249.90 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 11:01:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He might be able to help you. 800-320-6224. I don't know who would have a new one. Larry


88 Oliver propane

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 01:38:06 PM by jack

Need to know if rowcrop 88 rearend will exchange with my rowcrop 77 rearend

Re(1): 88 Oliver propane

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 05:57:49 PM by Larry Harsin

They are different. I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but they are different. You could install the 88 engine in the 77 transmission front frame and assembly and rebore the 2 front engine mounting holes in the tractor frame. It will crowd the radiator a little, but I have seen it done. If you are going to be pulling it very hard, you may have a heating problem. There will be some problems with having room for an air cleaner, also. Larry

Re(2): 88 Oliver propane

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 07:18:12 PM by jack

my question was will an 88 rearend bolt on to my 77 frame. i have found a 88 tractor that i can get for just hauling it off. i am wanting to send a rearend to a shop and have the difflock installed and would like to put it on my 77 pulling tractor when completed

Re(3): 88 Oliver propane

IP: 67.2.248.40 Posted on April 24, 2007 at 05:29:18 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure about that, as I havn't done that. Check the bolt pattern and see if it will fit. Larry


cracked sleeves

IP: 71.48.77.27 Posted on April 22, 2007 at 08:28:06 PM by pappy

WE just overhauled an Oliver 1600 deisel engine and now we have at least 3 sleeves cracked. The crackes are about 3/16 down from the top of the sleeve and go all the way on one of them. In ather words we have two pieces of sleeve instead of one. What went wrong?

Re(1): cracked sleeves

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 05:53:54 PM by Larry Harsin

If you put an overbore set of sleeves in there, you probably should have gotten a different head gasket with larger holes for the sleeves. This happened to me with a 1650 gas with overbore pistons, and the sleeve supplier neglected to inform us that a different head gasket was required. So, check this out first to make sure you are getting the proper head gasket with your sleeve sets. Larry

Re(2): cracked sleeves

IP: 71.48.77.27 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 07:35:18 PM by pappy

Thanks Larry.I would say you hit the nail on the head.Costly mistake.


Super 55 Starter

IP: 65.189.248.116 Posted on April 22, 2007 at 07:52:18 PM by Roy Fleming

Larry I tried to start my 55 after sitting over the winter and the starter does nothing. I pulled the starter, took it apart, the brushes look ok but is still does not do anything. What do I do next. The sytstem is original 6v with delco starter 1107147.

Re(1): Super 55 Starter

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 05:50:03 PM by Larry Harsin

You should make that starter come to life with jumper cables. Otherwise, you could take it to a starter shop and have it repaired. It might be a bad starter switch or a bad battery cable etc. Larry


oliver 1650 starting problems

IP: 66.233.40.91 Posted on April 22, 2007 at 04:48:01 PM by Darrel Silveira

my 1650 has a newly rebuilt injector pump, professionally installed and won't start unless you CAREFULLY feed it almost a full can of ether with the throttle set at wide open. two of the exaust ports leak unburned fuel and the rest of the unburned fuel gets turned into white smoke when it hits the hot metal in the muffler. once you get her to fire on all six she runs like a swiss watch. i can shut her down and re start without a problem while warm, but the next morning the problem starts all over again

Re(1): oliver 1650 starting problems

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 05:47:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I just finished redoing a 1650 diesel with that same problem. The main problem was low compression. I installed new sleeves and pistons and also, I had new seats installed in the head and brought the valves closer to the pistons. This tractor would not start without using ether, but now it does. It is vastly improved. On the intake valves are flush with the deck of the head after they are installed and seated. And, I installed new exhaust valves and seats there, also. Larry


880 diesel

IP: 4.188.210.127 Posted on April 22, 2007 at 04:24:40 PM by Mike

I have an 1958 880 diesel that runs very well but at times it has a slight fluctuation in engine speed at full throttle. It seemed like it won't do it after it is warm but the other day was doing it after I had been using it for hours.It seems to quit doing it if you pull the throttle back a little.

Re(1): 880 diesel

IP: 67.2.242.86 Posted on April 23, 2007 at 05:42:59 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be some wear in the governor. Or, it could be the check valves in the fuel transfer pump on the right side of the engine. The little springs on the check valves could be getting bad. That is 2 things that come to mind. Larry


White American 60

IP: 152.163.101.17 Posted on April 21, 2007 at 07:01:56 PM by marvin oneal

I bought a 1991 White American 60. I used it today and the rear main seal went out. I need to know if it is a 2 piece seal or 1 and be able to pull the bell housing with out pulling the engine. It does not have the power shift and is there anything else I need to know

Re(1): White American 60

IP: 67.2.248.63 Posted on April 22, 2007 at 11:45:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a Parts Manual for this tractor. I believe it is a 1 piece seal. You should call O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, and ask to speak to Tom or their Shop Foreman. They will be able to tell you exactly what you need to know. Larry


1850 Diesel starter

IP: 170.11.30.141 Posted on April 20, 2007 at 09:44:44 AM by tom hamilton

I recently put a 354 perkins diesel in place of my 310 gas,now the starter will barely turn it,so I put an 1100 amp battery in it,same thing. Are the starters the same between gas and diesel?

Re(1): 1850 Diesel starter

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on April 21, 2007 at 07:54:15 AM by J. Ulmer

Look at the displacement and compression difference and you can see why the gasser starter can barely turn it over!

Re(2): 1850 Diesel starter

IP: 67.2.248.77 Posted on April 20, 2007 at 09:49:33 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They are not the same. You are going to have to get a diesel starter. The diesel starter is nearly twice as big. Larry


1600 Oliver power

IP: 216.51.181.112 Posted on April 19, 2007 at 11:00:16 AM by stan

My gas tractor starts and runs fine if I keep the choke out half way. Last fall I pulled a thirteen foot tandem disk. After running it for a half hour the tractor over heated and lost power. I rebuilt the carburetor yesterday. Still no difference

Re(1): 1600 Oliver power

IP: 67.2.240.173 Posted on April 19, 2007 at 07:52:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You should unscrew the sediment bowl from the bottom of the fuel tank and make sure there isn't some foreign material in the neck of the fuel strainer. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Oliver power

IP: 216.51.181.112 Posted on April 20, 2007 at 04:44:10 PM by stan

Just found an old worn out cork gasket that was falling apart. The operator1s manual just talks about a fuel filter in LP and Diesel. Where can I get one?

Re(3): 1600 Oliver power

IP: 67.2.248.77 Posted on April 20, 2007 at 09:45:38 PM by Larry Harsin

There should also be a screen in there with that cork gasket. Be sure there is a good flow of gasoline when you open that valve. You should unscrew the sediment strainer from the fuel tank and blow it out with an air compressor and clean it out thoroughly. Get a new Fuel Strainer Assembly from Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Sometimes the old ones are warped etc. Sounds like your's is toast. Larry

Re(4): 1600 Oliver power

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on April 21, 2007 at 08:01:04 AM by J. Ulmer

The choke was pulling vacuum to assist fuel flow, but you probably went lean and that caused the overheating...which had nothing to do with the carb. As you and Larry discussed get a clean, open fuel line back to the tank. As you found parts of the cork gasket in the mix you might want to check nothing has crudded up your carb rebuild as well as junk could cause flooding with a stuck open needle valve, ect. Lots of luck!


Oliver 62w baler parts

IP: 64.216.55.88 Posted on April 18, 2007 at 11:12:10 AM by Harvey

Dad has a 62W baler and a 64 grain drill. We are in the Big Country Area of Texas. The area in and around Abilene Tx. We are looking for parts for the baler. At the moment, I do not know the proper terms for the parts. The connecting plunger bearing to the plunger gearbox is out. The bearing holder is cast iron. We may need the holder as well as the bearing.

Re(1): Oliver 62w baler parts

IP: 64.216.55.88 Posted on April 18, 2007 at 11:15:25 AM by Harvey

I think that Dad should be able to find the bearing in Abilene, if he can get the number off what is left of the bearing. The cast iron bearing holder, he was talking about taking to a machine shop today.

Re(2): Oliver 62w baler parts

IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on April 19, 2007 at 05:43:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Ollie Schaefer. Email: olliesch@papadocs.com Phone: 618-664-3050. Those balers were built near where Ollie lives and there were several dealers in that area. Ollie might be able to help find parts. Larry

Re(3): Oliver 62w baler parts

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on April 21, 2007 at 08:04:17 AM by J. Ulmer

You might link to the Oliver museum on Larry's home page and order a parts and/or operator's manual if you need some info to help you with maintenance and operation. Be safe!


External Hydraulic valve for 550

IP: 12.219.0.83 Posted on April 17, 2007 at 09:40:13 PM by Larry Kruse

Do you have the instructions on how to set up an external after market 2 way hydraulic valve on a 550? I have seen some in photos? Is this an open center or closed center valve? Thank you for your help.

Re(1): External Hydraulic valve for 550

IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on April 19, 2007 at 05:38:26 AM by Larry Harsin

It is an open center valve. If you look at the picture, it will show you how to hook it up. Larry


Oliver 770

IP: 75.68.162.58 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 08:35:41 PM by Bill Charbonneau

I am looking at a Oliver770 diesel.wide front with an power steering. 1958 per the owner. It has a rear axle with row crop on it. Ser #65390736. There doesnt appear to be any hydraulic hoses or a rear lift- 3 point. The two hydraulic levers go into what appears to be a pump or resivour at deck. Can you tell what is missing for hydrualics or how much fix it might need. Also wonder about where the 3 point or lift went to. The owner doesnt seem to know much about the mechanics and I dont know eneough about it. But the tractor runs and drives nice.

Re(1): Oliver 770

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 10:57:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You are looking at a 770 diesel row crop tractor with a standard drawbar and no 3 pt. hitch. It is a standard 2 valve hydraulic system. You can use one of them to run a 3 pt. hitch and the other one to run a remote cylinder. There is an after market 3 pt. hitch available. Saginaw County Tractor Parts has a good one. 810-638-5787. That would make you a nice tractor. Larry


Oliver 1800

IP: 4.239.135.155 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 03:44:01 PM by Jim Moffett

I'm looking at buying an 1800 with 6100 hrs on it. It has a six-cylinder diesel in it. I have a few questions.How many horsepower is this tractor? Rear tire size is 14.9-38, is this correct? This tractor has hydro-drive,whatis this? Tractor seems to be in good shape overall, are there any specific problems to look for on this machine? How is the availability of parts, new and used for this tractor? Thanks, Jim

Re(1): Oliver 1800

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 10:51:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Is it an 1800 A or B or C? If it is an A, the engine is 70 hp. If it is a B or a C, it has 80 hp. It's possible that that tire size is right. Hydro-drive is a direct and low range you can shift on the go. No real problems.....if it has the old style Gemmer steering with the complete unit under the radiator and a steering shaft, it is hard to keep these units working and it is hard to get parts for these units. Some 1800's were upgraded to a full oil steering like the 50 series has. Parts availability on the A engine......some of them are hard to come by. On the B and C engines, they are available. Larry


Oliver 1750 Diesel Clutch

IP: 66.37.229.72 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 01:29:03 PM by Tony

I have an Oliver 1750 diesel. I had the clutch replaced last summer. Recently I have had the following problems: 1) Difficult to shift out of 1st or 2nd gears (sometimes I need to pick up the front of my tractor with my loader -i.e. take the weight off the front of the tractor to get the shifter out of first or second????)
2) Difficult/impossible to shift from 5th to 6th when I am moving (gears will grind), before I replaced the clutch I was always was able to do this.
3) When I am in neutral (clutch engaged and out of gear) I experience drag that if I have momentum or if I am on a hill will bring me to a stop.
I think all of these are related. I know #3 is not due to brakes, because I relieved the pressure from the plates and it did not impact the drag at all. I assumed it was a bad clutch, but someone told me that it is possible that the gears are binding. One last thing is that it seems like all of these things become worse as the tractor warms up (I am not sure about this, but initially I do not have problems shifting in an out of 1st and 2nd.).

Re(1): Oliver 1750 Diesel Clutch

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 10:44:55 PM by Larry Harsin

First I would try removing some free travel from the clutch. That would help to open it up and make it release better. If that doesn't work, you'll have to pull the engine and see if there is something broken in the pressure plate or one of the fingers out of adjustment. Larry


99 oliver

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 10:03:07 PM by jack

Are these very popular pulling tractors? I was told they are pretty rare.

Re(1): 99 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.217 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 10:42:50 PM by Larry Harsin

There are some around. There isn't a whole lot of them. They don't seem to be real popular for pulling. I don't get many calls for them from Pullers. Larry


770 Gas Head Gasket

IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 11:45:21 AM by Justin

I've had a slow internal leak for some time and there is coolant in the oil - my assumption was a failing head gasket. Yesterday after spreading manure, I started to get smoke out of the draft tube. Pulled into the shop and drained the oil - it was a milky/gray color and about 4-5 gallons came out. I assume massive amounts of coolant. Should I assume it's a blown head gasket and/or cracked head? I've never done one before - assuming it's the gasket and the head is OK, are there any replacement parts I will need other than a new gasket? Should I have the head milled down flat? This tractor only gets used about 5 - 10 minutes a day, I'm hoping the engine never got hot enough to warp the head or block, even with a compromised cooling system.

Re(1): 770 Gas Head Gasket

IP: 67.2.248.245 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 12:39:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I would certainly check the head gasket and make sure the head is straight. Have a machine shop check it. I'd also check to make sure coolant wasn't getting past the sleeve sealing rings in the block. If the head and the head gasket checks out o.k., then I'd look for the problem to be on the bottom of the sleeves. Possibly, also, it could be a cracked sleeve or a sleeve that is corroded enough that coolant is getting through the side of the sleeve, into the cylinder. Larry

Re(2): 770 Gas Head Gasket

IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 06:41:27 PM by Justin

So I pulled the valve cover and the valve train, and just as I was loosening the head bolts inside the cover, I notice a quarter-size metal disk laying next to a valve. Don't know what you call it, but I assume it is similar to a freeze plug and has fallen out of the hole (I think there were three total) I can see where this would allow a massive quantity of coolant to be pumped into the oil pan, pretty much until there is no coolant left. My coolant was in pretty good shape, I don't expect it came out from freezing, probably just fatigue and time. So do I keep going and do the head gasket at this point? I did a compression test before I pulled it apart and had 160 to 170 psi on all cylinders. I was told by the previous owner that he did an extensive rebuild of the engine, maybe these plugs were not addressed, or one just failed. I would prefer not to mess with pulling the head if I can avoid it. I re-tightened the head bolts, just need to check torque.

Re(3): 770 Gas Head Gasket

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on April 16, 2007 at 10:33:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Install new soft plugs and let her go. You have nothing to lose. Larry

Re(4): 770 Gas Head Gasket

IP: 75.111.137.139 Posted on April 21, 2007 at 08:22:19 AM by J. Ulmer

I would also recommend that you run the reassembled unit more than five or ten minutes after flushing and putting new oil and filter in to get the motor hot and up to operating temperature. Then I'd invest in another oil change so I can look for coolant in the oil and clear out the acidity that the water would have caused with sulfur in the lubrication system as the mixture causes sulfuric acid which does a real number on your rod and main bearings . You can save the rebuild by not having that toxic mixture soaking the bearing surfaces day and night. As you don't put many hours or get it hot ofter I would do more frequent oil changes as well. Jerry


1950T wet stack

IP: 4.252.215.41 Posted on April 14, 2007 at 08:15:42 PM by Ray Patrilla

Larry, I have a 1950T with about 400 hours on a total rebuild. It has a new TO4 Turbo and runs around 40psi of oil pressure. Every now and then I will get slight amounts of oil running out of the bottom of the muffler. It happens maybe once or twice in the spring. Will changing the air filters more frequently stop this?

Re(1): 1950T wet stack

IP: 67.2.249.14 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 08:14:24 AM by Larry Harsin

This may be simply a problem of "slow speed-no load" operation, where the engine doesn't get warmed up sufficiently. If the engine doesn't run smooth, there may be an injector at fault. This is a common problem that happens when the engine has light loads. I don't think the air filters are the problem. Larry


1850 fuel in oil

IP: 64.136.49.228 Posted on April 14, 2007 at 04:41:29 PM by Dennis

started up my 1850D, oil pressure 20psi, slinging oil/fuel from crankshaft balancer, checked dipstick and was almost clear (oil had been black). Unscrewed the filter and it's full diesel/oil. Could this be an injection pump seal failure? or a fuel pump? Last choice rings? Tractor has been leaking at injector pump throttle cable connection for some time.

Re(1): 1850 fuel in oil

IP: 67.2.249.14 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 08:09:05 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would suspect would be the fuel transfer pump that has a bad diaphram. Otherwise, the injection pump would be the next choice to check. Larry

Re(2): 1850 fuel in oil

IP: 74.38.175.67 Posted on April 15, 2007 at 09:37:24 PM by Jeff Oliver

Been through this with a 1800. Although the engines are different I imagine the fixes are the same. Larry is right about the transfer pump and seal. I would check them in that order too. Does the engine have aslight miss in it? If so you might have to do the injectors as well ad maybe a set of rings. Mine finally got cleared up (I hope) after having injectors rebuilt and replacing 2 valve rods. One was broke and the other bent,freed up the valves and replaces the rods when I did the injectors,so far so good. If it is running good probably just a seal or the pump.


770 gas

IP: 207.177.82.30 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 10:44:13 PM by wayne

I have a 770 gas that will start and run great for about 2 minutes and then die. sediment bowl and filter are clean and carb has just been rebuilt ( was doing this before rebuilt carb) any ideas?

Re(1): 770 gas

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:23:26 AM by Larry Harsin

You could have a bad electrical connection between the switch and the points. Or, it could be bad points. Or, it could be a bad coil or condenser. Larry

Re(2): 770 gas

IP: 216.46.213.86 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 08:39:07 AM by Randy Lund

Larry,somebody on an Oliver forum was having this exact same problem with an 88 after the carb was rebuilt. The float wasn't bent right. It was letting in enough gas to start it over time,but not enough was in the bowl to keep it running for very long.He took the plug out of the bottom of the carb and got a good flow for just an instant,then just a trickle.

Re(3): 770 gas

IP: 67.2.248.19 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 11:29:31 PM by Larry Harsin

That could be a possibility also. Larry


1949 77 oliver

IP: 152.163.101.17 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 09:11:41 AM by d wickens

what are the largest piston sleeve set that can be in stalled& can i use dome pistons?

Re(1): 1949 77 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:20:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The largest dome pistons that I know of, are 3 9/16", from M&W. There is a flat topped piston available from M&W that is 3 3/4". Both of these will work in a 1949 Oliver 77. Contact Korves Bros. 618-939-6681, and get their opinion. Larry


Oliver 88 rear axle disassembly

IP: 12.189.32.59 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 07:16:40 AM by Greg

I am going to remove the rear axles from my Oliver 88 to replace the gaskets between the axles and the transmission housing. Will the hex cast housing slide off of the bar axle or do I have to remove the bull gear from the bar axle shaft?. I am hoping the axle housing sliding off will work.

Re(1): Oliver 88 rear axle disassembly

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:13:58 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to take the snap ring off of the bull gear to slide it out. You do have to remove the bull gear. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 88 rear axle disassembly

IP: 12.189.32.37 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:55:57 AM by Greg

How hard is it to remove bull gear? I am assuming since it runs in oil it won't be stuck. Will two prybars be all I need to remove bull gear from shaft?

Re(3): Oliver 88 rear axle disassembly

IP: 67.2.248.19 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 11:26:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will slide right off. You won't need a puller. Larry


1650 Oliver Hyd. Problems

IP: 216.129.229.65 Posted on April 11, 2007 at 10:34:08 AM by Charles Locke

I have a 1650 oliver with hyd.elec system. all elec controls have been disconnected. I put a loader on recently with double acting cyl and hooked it to the remote outlets. The interlock bleed screw and bypass valve are closed. The problems are the bucket will not maintaine position creeps down fairly fast with tractor running also with a heavy load in bucket when raising loader it dumps the bucket

Re(1): 1650 Oliver Hyd. Problems

IP: 4.249.204.118 Posted on April 11, 2007 at 06:23:58 PM by Larry from md

You can try reversing the hoses in the hydrolic couplers for the bucket. Thats what i ended up doing.

Re(2): 1650 Oliver Hyd. Problems

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 06:41:26 AM by Larry Harsin

Reversing the hoses is the first thing I would do. Also, I would consider getting a 2 spool valve and plumbing into the Power Beyond Port and running the loader off of that. Larry

Re(3): 1650 Oliver Hyd. Problems

IP: 216.129.229.65 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 01:22:12 PM by Charles Locke

I switched the hoses and that fixed the problems thanks

Re(4): 1650 Oliver Hyd. Problems

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:10:38 AM by Larry Harsin

It is either interlock in need of repair or a thermal relief valve that is bad. But if it works, I'd leave it alone. Larry


super 88

IP: 75.130.30.237 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 08:50:38 PM by Karl

Hello,What year would a super 88 serial # 58061-801 be ? I think it is a late 58, but some one else says it to be a late 56, Thanks

Re(1): super 88

IP: 67.2.248.225 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 10:47:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a 1958. It's one of the last ones made. Larry


super 55 fuel pump

IP: 68.12.189.54 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 05:22:20 PM by robert stout

Can you tell me where i can purchase a new fuel pump for a super 55 diesel or can i get a serial number for the ac delco pump on my tractor thanks

Re(1): super 55 fuel pump

IP: 67.2.248.225 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 10:45:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You can't buy new ones like that anymore. You can get a repair kit for your's from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681. Larry

Re(2): super 55 fuel pump

IP: 68.12.189.54 Posted on April 11, 2007 at 04:32:08 PM by robert stout

the reason i need another one is the pump prime handle broke off on mine. can i get an electric one and use it? thanks bob

Re(3): super 55 fuel pump

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 06:44:47 AM by Larry Harsin

You could get an electric one. You can get one from NAPA. If you want to send your old pump to me, I could repair it. 3426 170th St. Estherville IA 51334. Larry


Oliver 1750 Diesel Injector

IP: 207.28.25.5 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 01:34:49 PM by matt

I am trying to get an oliver 1750 diesel running, that has been sitting for a few years. Owners says that the injector was rebuild about 150 hours before he stopped using it. The Shut off cable is gone, I thought that, that was the problem but it is not. I can get fuel to the injector(replaced pump, filters, and a few lines) but can not get it to come out. I noticed that there is a line that is suppose to come off the top of the injectors and run across the fuel rail,(needs to be replaces) but that shouldn't stop the injectors from working should it? Being it has sat for a while I figured it was gumped up, is there a way to clean them? ANy help would be great. Tractor has 6100 hours total!

Re(1): Oliver 1750 Diesel Injector

IP: 67.2.248.225 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 10:42:14 PM by Larry Harsin

If you are getting fuel up to the injection pump and it is not working, you are going to have to remove the pump and take it to a "pump shop" and get it checked out. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1750 Diesel Injector

IP: 63.229.173.7 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 07:26:31 PM by matt

Larry, working on taking the injector pump off and the third bolt on the bottom towards the engine, I can not get a wrench on. Any tricks of the trade??

Re(3): Oliver 1750 Diesel Injector

IP: 71.48.77.27 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 09:41:13 PM by pappy

Grind the out side of a 9/16 short 12 point wrench down maybe a third of it off on the side that will be next to the pump.Probably will have to turn a 12th of a turn at a time but it will come off.

Re(4): Oliver 1750 Diesel Injector

IP: 67.2.249.91 Posted on April 13, 2007 at 07:27:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I use a special "Open End wrench to reach hard places", from Snap-On. Pappy's advice above is good, too. Larry


Hydraulic Filter

IP: 216.79.240.168 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 11:08:48 PM by Ray Burcham

I need a Hydraulic filter for my 550 Oliver. can you tell me where I can get one, and where can I get other parts for my Tractor.

Re(1): Hydraulic Filter

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 07:09:15 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get them at your AGCO Dealer or you can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): Hydraulic Filter

IP: 216.79.240.217 Posted on April 11, 2007 at 11:35:07 AM by Ray Burcham

I found what I needed from Tom at O'Brien Co. Thank you very much for your help.


Oliver 550 hydraulics

IP: 69.92.199.168 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 10:40:01 PM by Doug

My 3 point seams to be bleeding by under load as the arms will move up and down aboit an inch or so under loaded conditions. What parts do I need to fix this and where is the best place to purchase them?

Re(1): Oliver 550 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 07:07:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Probably all that is needed is a new O ring on the lift piston. You can get O rings at an implement dealer or a Farm Supply store or even and automotive store. If you have an AGCO Dealer, you can get it there. Larry


1555

IP: 69.129.226.103 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 09:10:38 PM by Jeremy

I have a 1555 that I am thinking about parting out. It has a hole in the side of the block where it threw a rod. Everything else is in great shape. Had about 3000 hours on it. Does anyone have any interest in parts off this or should I just rebuild/replace the motor?

Re(1): 1555

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 07:04:06 AM by Larry Harsin

That's a good tractor to go either way with. There is good demand for the parts and it is a good tractor of a size that will sell. You will have to make your own decision. Larry

Re(2): 1555

IP: 69.129.226.103 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 06:55:26 PM by Jeremy

I figure either way I need to yank the engine out. I have removed everything and am ready to remove the engine, but I am unable to figure out how to pull the drive shaft out the rear. It seems that I should have it, but it appears that I have missed something. Is there a snap ring or something that I might be forgetting so that the shaft will free up and pull out the rear? I don't want to dismantle the pto clutch assembley if I don't have to? Any ideas would be helpful.

Re(3): 1555

IP: 67.2.248.236 Posted on April 12, 2007 at 06:52:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is just a 540 PTO unit, it is taken out just as it is on an 880. If it is a dual speed unit, it will be like doing a 1650, where there is a snap ring inside of the drum that has 2 holes. You go through those holes to release that snap ring. Then before trying to pry the clutch spider off of the plates, engage the PTO clutch so that the plates stay in position. Then you can withdraw that shaft. Larry


Oliver Plow Cylinder

IP: 207.160.221.252 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 11:25:08 AM by Colton

I have an Oliver cylinder that came off of my oliver plow and it has a leak. what do you think i need to do to fix this? PS i bought the plow and i just put a different cylinder on it for now so i dont know anything about it.

Re(1): Oliver Plow Cylinder

IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on April 10, 2007 at 06:55:55 AM by Larry Harsin

The cylinder needs to be taken apart and have new O rings and seals put into it. Larry


Pedestal

IP: 208.126.48.226 Posted on April 8, 2007 at 07:06:37 AM by Steve Wendel

How hard is it to change out a pedestal front end on a 1650? I need to change one out.Is there a lock nut or a snap ring that holds the shaft in place inside the steering box?Easier to do with teh radiator out? Any input would be helpful. Thank you.

Re(1): Pedestal

IP: 67.2.242.77 Posted on April 8, 2007 at 11:48:58 PM by Larry Harsin

The cap has to be removed from the steering box. It would probably be easier for you to do if you'd remove the radiator. After the cap is removed, there is plug with an O ring in the top of the sector. It has to be pried out. Then there is a puller bolt that has to be unscrewed to pull the sector up off of the post. Then the pedestal can be dropped out of the front of the tractor. Larry


2655 power specs.

IP: 209.62.166.142 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 06:50:21 PM by Greg

Looking at restoring a 2655 what are the power specs and trouble spots with the tractor, it is a diesel model.

Re(1): 2655 power specs.

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on April 8, 2007 at 11:41:07 PM by Larry Harsin

The 2655 was 143 horsepower. It weighs 18,000lbs, without fluid. It has a 10 speed trans. It was built from 1970 through 1972. It is a low production tractor. There aren't any particular trouble spots. Larry

Re(2): 2655 power specs.

IP: 4.188.209.26 Posted on April 9, 2007 at 10:41:33 PM by Patrick

I agree with Larry Harsin on this, I have two of these that are used on an 800 + acre farming operation. I have had very very little problems with them at all, one of them has been on this farm since it was less than a year old. Just my 2 cents worth.


oliver 1800 popping out of gear

IP: 204.11.80.98 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 07:37:38 AM by todd

I have a 1800 that occasionally pops out of gear in the "lower H" that has 3rd, 5th, 6th and R2. I have it torn apart and suspect a worn poppet ball, spring, and/or a worn shaft (107906A part#?) I do see some wear marks on both but the shaft is hardened in this area so i don't know if it would still wear enough to cause problems. I would have to split the tractor to replace the shaft and would rather not if I didn't have to. I'm not sure how expensive new parts would be and where I could get them. Thank You in advance for your help.

Re(1): oliver 1800 popping out of gear

IP: 67.2.249.81 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 06:17:27 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd try to make the poppit spring stronger. See if that will fix it. Larry


casting # m vs k

IP: 24.197.234.206 Posted on April 6, 2007 at 04:28:32 PM by greg

Did the 770 have the m in their casting numbers as did the 77 and 880 the K same as the 88??

Re(1): casting # m vs k

IP: 67.2.249.66 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 00:23:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is correct. Larry


1850 fuel pump

IP: 72.51.198.29 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 03:37:40 PM by jeff canada

larry, i would like to know what steps to take in removing rear of injection pump to repair shutdown. 6.354 perkins.

Re(1): 1850 fuel pump

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 10:52:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't work on those. I reccommend you take it to a pump repair shop. Larry

Re(2): 1850 fuel pump

IP: 4.249.204.1 Posted on April 5, 2007 at 11:47:35 AM by Larry from md

Make sure in lever on the outside is not slipping on the shaft.


Oliver RC70 trans problem

IP: 64.184.122.76 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 09:33:11 PM by Phil

I've have a 1946 70rc. When plowing in third gear it will stop & make a grinding sound; the gear shift will stay in place, will only do this when I'm pulling it hard. All other gears are fine no noise, work fine. I'm planning on taking the top cover off to inspect. Do I need to take the trip box off? What should I be looking for?

Re(1): Oliver RC70 trans problem

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 00:08:58 AM by Larry Harsin

The problem is, the input gear, coming in from the front, is worn. Also, the bearings are worn enough to contribute to the problem. You are going to have to replace some or all of these parts to correct this problem. You do need to take the trip box off also. You'll also have to remove the belt pulley drive box and the front cover on the transmission. Check out the front input. Larry


1951 Fleetline 77 questions

IP: 4.188.213.210 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 08:58:45 PM by Mike

I have a 1951 77 and on the serial # plate it has C 77D after the serial number, what does this mean? I am also checking to see if this tractor had the same seat and frame as a 1954 super 66 had? Also did this tractor have the red bullet tail light?

Re(1): 1951 Fleetline 77 questions

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 00:03:29 AM by Larry Harsin

That C 77D is referring to the transmission (identification for the gearing). Your 77 could be the earlier Ride-Master seat. If it is, you can buy one for a S66 and it will fit right on there. The early 77's did not have that tail light. Larry

Re(2): 1951 Fleetline 77 questions

IP: 170.215.17.122 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 08:29:32 AM by Mike

What style lights did this tractor come with?

Re(3): 1951 Fleetline 77 questions

IP: 67.2.248.46 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 08:54:50 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1951 Fleetline 77 had 6 volt, non-sealed beam headlights. You can get reproduction lights from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681 Email: korves@htc.net Larry


waukesha 180 DLC

IP: 64.252.66.41 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 07:28:00 PM by tod raynor

As used in the Super 55 what is the correct glow plug? Currently my engine has Wellman with a bullet connection that keeps comming (falling) off. The injectors are Bosch AKB 35S - 2772A which doesnt match the waukesha book. It runs good with no smoke but I am low in RPMS and I have to give a shot of ether to start(always if engine cold)

Re(1): waukesha 180 DLC

IP: 67.2.248.46 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 09:14:44 AM by Larry Harsin

In the S55, they used a heater coil. I don't have one. What you have is not Oliver. Arrow Industries of Tulsa OK bought out Waukesha. I don't have a contact for them, but if you would call Mike Sweeney at 314-868-8620, (website: www.CKPower.com) he will be able to help you with what you need. Larry


Oliver 1750

IP: 207.28.25.5 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 03:58:58 PM by matt

I got one running The gas, couple questions. The clutch does not spring back when you let off it, the over is off and I think that there is alot of grease in there that is holding up the throw out bearing. How much work to put a clutch in?? The tractor moves good, but the over under does not work, I move the lever and it clicks but no gear movement, what should I do? Are they known for this problem? Also Where could I get a side panel with 1750 on it(both sides?) I think tomorrow we will get the diesel going and might have a ton more questions.

Re(1): Oliver 1750

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 11:56:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a LOT of work to put a clutch in. The engine and the hydraul will have to be lifted out of the tractor. Then you'll have to set the engine down on the floor and remove the hydraul from the rear of the engine to get at the clutch. If you have a bad hydraul, I have one out of a working tractor - you can email me about it. The hydraul out of an Oliver is an excellent piece of equipment. I'll look and see if I have a pair of side panels. Larry


880 remote hydraulics

IP: 74.224.148.36 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 02:41:02 PM by c rutland

cannot lift cutter bar on six disk kuhn mower mower has only one hyd.hose to cutter bar hyd.cylinder remotes work ok when using round baler and 3point hitch works fine what can I do tomake it work remotes also work with 7 ft. no till grain drill thanks RUT.

Re(1): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 11:48:44 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic unit on the 880 is made to generate a maximum of 1200lbs of pressure. It may be that the Kuhn mower is designed for higher pressure than this. See what the book for the Kuhn mower or your dealer says about the amount of pressure needed. Do you have the left hand valve on the 880 set up for single acting cylinder operation? You could set that up, if you don't have it already. Larry

Re(2): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 68.223.117.93 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 06:22:08 AM by crutland

larry:thanks for reply how do I set up for single cylinder operation I have used the tractor on a 7 ft.trail type rotary mower with single cylinder and it works fine but I did have to change the orfice in the hyds.on my rnd baler to make it work right the 880 is my main tractor in my hay operation I hope I do not have to trade tractor its in exc.shape

Re(3): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 10:50:06 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a spring and plunger you have put in the restrictor that is located on the left hand valve. The part numbers are K2114 and K2115. The swivel that has this spring and plunger, has to be routed to the hydraulic reservoir. The other hose goes to the single acting cylinder. Larry

Re(4): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 68.19.62.242 Posted on April 6, 2007 at 06:55:26 AM by charles rutland@BELLSOUTH.NETla

larry I appreciate the info.we will try to get a spring and plunger and install them. how do we route back to the reservoir? we will also check the hyd.pressure. thanks RUT.

Re(5): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 170.215.17.122 Posted on April 6, 2007 at 11:11:00 AM by Mike

I just took a short hose from the swivel and plumbed it into where the drain plug was at the lower rear side of res. Works real good for me on my 1958 880.

Re(6): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 74.224.20.22 Posted on April 6, 2007 at 04:48:44 PM by charles rutland@BELLSOUTH.NET

thanks mike< did you use the spring and plunger that larry mentioned or just connect the hose into the res.?

Re(7): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.66 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 00:21:36 AM by Larry Harsin

To connect to the reservoir, go into the drain hole at the left rear corner. I'm sorry, our computer server was down last night and we couldn't answer. Larry

Re(8): 880 remote hydraulics

IP: 208.61.117.137 Posted on April 7, 2007 at 08:22:16 PM by charles rutland@BELLSOUTH.NET

Thanks Larry< I ordered a spring and plunger,so I will try this latest Ifo.when they come in, RUT


1550

IP: 69.129.81.66 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 08:12:46 AM by Billy

The steering wheel has quit telescoping. It is like it just froze right up. What would be causing this to happen? It doesn't seem that it would be bound up on anything? Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): 1550

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 11:42:53 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll probably have to remove the steering column off of the mechanism. It probably just has to be cleaned. There may be a drive pin that has slipped out. Begin by removing the outer housing and go from there. Larry

Re(2): 1550

IP: 216.46.208.229 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 12:56:59 PM by Randy Lund

Larry,just an explaination of how that works might help him,it did me. That shaft works like the gooseneck on bicycle handlebars. The end is cut on an angle so when you tighten the centercap on the wheel,a threaded rod tightens the wedge. I'd say if you can get some light oil past the top dust cap by tipping the wheel up and pouring it down around it while you work the wheel back and forth,then loosten the centercap and just try to push the shaft in,it's usually a good place to start. Don't mean to be a smart alec,just talking from experience. My 2 cents worth.

Re(3): 1550

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on April 4, 2007 at 10:43:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Hey, Randy! We appreciate your 2 cents worth. Nothing better than the voice of experience! Thanks! Larry


Sealing Sleeves Into Blocks.

IP: 209.143.63.162 Posted on April 2, 2007 at 07:46:38 PM by Greg Knisley

First Off This is My Daughters Email Adress. I have a 1967 1250 Oliver Gasoline Tractor That I Am Rebuilding. I Bought A Parts Book, but it does not tell me how to seal the sleves into the block. I was wondering if there was anybody out there that could help me with that information.

Re(1): Sealing Sleeves Into Blocks.

IP: 67.2.249.106 Posted on April 3, 2007 at 11:37:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Those sleeves are sealed into the block with a gasket. I would reccommend that you get a Service Manual for your tractor, from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net The engine rebuild instructions and specifications are all included in that Manual. Larry


inspecting 550 PTO disc

IP: 63.71.120.26 Posted on April 2, 2007 at 12:59:40 PM by pat redington

I had a transmission seal leak on my 550 and the fiber PTO discs are oil soaked. How can I tell if the discs are excessively worn and what is a good way to clean the discs? Thanks,

Re(1): inspecting 550 PTO disc

IP: 67.2.242.125 Posted on April 2, 2007 at 11:05:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Clean them with brake parts cleaner or solvent and blow them off to dry. They can have a bit of wear and be fine. If they are just worn a small amount and aren't broken or anything, they'll be good enough to use. Adjust them as per instructions in your Operator's Manual. Larry


1855 hydra/power

IP: 152.163.101.17 Posted on April 1, 2007 at 07:03:08 PM by randy

I just got my tractor back together after replacing the engine and now the hydra/power has a bad vibration. Under not bad. direct worse and over will vibrate the throttle down. This tractor is the one that threw the rod and i replaced the block.any infomation on where to start.

Re(1): 1855 hydra/power

IP: 67.2.249.120 Posted on April 1, 2007 at 09:12:46 PM by Larry Harsin

You should check the alignment of the sprockets where you put the chain coupling on. There's a threaded hole below that hydraul unit, and if it doesn't have a jack screw in there, you should put one in. The jack screw will need to push against a steel plate, which will set against the bottom of the hydraul unit, so that the jack screw will not wear into the hydraul case. Raise or lower the hydraul with the adjustment of the jack screw, and when it is aligned properly, lock it with a jam nut against the housing. See if this helps. Another thing, make sure the engine mount bolts are tight. Larry


Plow model

IP: 72.160.221.241 Posted on April 1, 2007 at 05:00:56 PM by Jim Friedl

I have a three point three bottom oliver plow that can be adjusted too plow at different widths. Would you happen to know what model it might be

Re(1): Plow model

IP: 67.2.249.120 Posted on April 1, 2007 at 09:05:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It's probably a 3241. You could check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Free Counters from SimpleCount.com
Web Counters