oliver plow

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 12:26:06 PM by jeremy

I have a line on a 5-18 oliver semi mount plow. It has hydraulic reset. I heard these cylinders are next to impossible to fix. Is that true. If not where do you get parts. Thanks for any advice. Jeremy

Re(1): oliver plow

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 09:40:42 PM by Larry Harsin

That is a real good plow, but if you have trouble with those re-set cylinders, it is probably true. If I wanted a re-set plow, I would get one with the spring re-set instead of the cylinders. I don't know if you can get the parts to fix the cylinders any more. Check with AGCO or Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I wouldn't recommend that you get one with the cylinders. You'll have trouble. I used to own one. Larry

Re(2): oliver plow

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on May 1, 2009 at 06:13:33 AM by jeremy

Thanks for the information. I was looking for a good honest answer and you always give them. Thanks for steering me away from potential problems. I went and looked at the plow and all 5 cyliders had pretty bad rust pits on the rams. Have a great weekend.

1850 gas governor

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 08:16:25 AM by jeremy

I have an 1850 that I think is leaking oil from either the shaft seal or the gasket on the governor. It is weird, sometimes it will leak quite a bit and sometimes it won't. It is very hard to tell because the fan is blowing it all over. It doesn't appear to be leaking from the lower engine seal. Where else could it be coming from? My question is if I can just take the governor off and replace the gasket and shaft seal and put it back on with out losing timing. I am learning so I don't know if I even have to worry about the timing regarding the governor. Will that shaft that leads out of the governor to the carb linkage come out fairly easy so I can get at the seal? What other things do I have to watch for before doing this. Thanks again for all the help you provide. You are very patient with everyone.

Re(1): 1850 gas governor

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 09:36:28 PM by Larry Harsin

It is probably either the gasket or the shaft seal. The shaft seal is the most common place for it to leak. Timing is not an issue. The governor housing can be removed without any problem as far as the timing is concerned. You'll probably have to replace the little ball bearing and seal, if it is leaking out of the shaft. Also, when you take the governor housing off, there should be 2 little dowel pins where it mounts onto the timing cover, I have seen where one of those pins is missing and then you have an oil leak. You have to remove 2 little screws that holds the fork onto the shaft, then the shaft will slide right out. It is fairly easy, you will see what it amounts to when you get in there. Larry

Carb on oliver 1250 gas

IP: 207.4.92.242 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 06:54:45 AM by Ray Briggs

I have a 1967 1250 gas Oliver that the float sticks on in the carb causing it to cut off. I need a carb kit or repalcement carb. The carb on it is a Solex made in France.

Re(1): Carb on oliver 1250 gas

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 09:27:27 PM by Larry Harsin

That tractor was built for Oliver by Fiat, it Italy and is one of the hardest to find parts for. However, Maibach Tractor Parts in Creston OH has some parts for it. 800-808-9934. Also, I believe Ag Parts First in Wooster OH, may have some. 866-264-9720. Also, ask them if Rick Stair might have them. (He is a brother to them).Then, if that doesn't work, go to this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html See if Danny Bowes in Canada, can help you. Larry

1800 engine

IP: 66.244.213.146 Posted on April 28, 2009 at 08:59:07 PM by wes hamm

found an 1800 row crop diesel for sale,is that a 354 or a 310?

Re(1): 1800 engine

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 28, 2009 at 11:21:04 PM by Larry Harsin

It is definitely not a Perkins (354). It is probably a Waukesha 310. They didn't put any Perkins in 1800's. Larry

Re(2): 1800 engine

IP: 66.244.213.146 Posted on April 29, 2009 at 05:59:15 AM by wes hamm

whats that 310 like?

Re(3): 1800 engine

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 29, 2009 at 06:45:10 PM by Larry Harsin

In the 1800 B & C tractors, where that 310 diesel engine was used -- that engine held up real well and did a good job. Larry

1855 injectors

IP: 71.60.32.245 Posted on April 28, 2009 at 10:03:41 AM by Joe

Which injector do I need for my 1855? I've found two listed 30-3043983 (currently using in my 1755) 165857AS-R

Re(1): 1855 injectors

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 06:14:17 AM by Larry Harsin

According to my info, the 1855 uses different injectors than the 1755. The turbo engines use a different injector than the non-turbo engines. The info I find is that the one in you 1755 (30-3043983) will work. Ask your supplier. Larry

Re(2): 1855 injectors

IP: 71.60.32.245 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 02:58:35 PM by Joe

Thanks for the reply. The supplier shows both for the 1855 The 30-3043983 1750,1755,1855 The 165857AS-R 1855,1950T,1955

Re(3): 1855 injectors

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 09:24:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I have different sources that sort of say different things, but it comes out that all of them will work. Larry

1650 Hydraulics

IP: 206.246.157.14 Posted on April 27, 2009 at 01:42:51 PM by Jim

I have a 1650 that I just replaced the hydraulic pump on but still have one of the original problems that was part of the reason for replacing the pump. The 3-point lift arms pulsate up and down (approx. 2-3 inches) when they are under a load. Any suggestions on what might be causing this?

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 27, 2009 at 07:33:38 PM by Larry Harsin

The most common problem when they do that, is that the check valve on the lowering spool, is not working. When you are looking at the servo valve, sitting in the unit, that check valve is top front. That is probably where the problem is. Larry

1750 engine

IP: 66.244.213.146 Posted on April 26, 2009 at 12:52:10 PM by wes hamm

i have a 69 1750 standard diesel missing the motor and power shift,what is a simple engine to swap into it.

Re(1): 1750 engine

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 26, 2009 at 05:22:15 PM by Larry Harsin

The easiest and cheapest switch over would be an 1850 gas engine. A 1750 would work also, but it would be smaller in horse power. But to keep it diesel, you are about going to have to put the 1750 diesel back in there. I think I would go with the diesel. Larry

Oliver cab

IP: 173.27.1.69 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 09:48:44 AM by Mac Mcnaughton

Larry, I've noticed an advertisement for an 88 diesel tractor cab. I've asked for pictures of it so I can see it. Do you know of any factory cabs that were sold? Or do you know of any manufacturers that sold cabs for Oliver tractors of this vintage? Any insight will be appreciated! Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver cab

IP: 75.104.183.123 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 08:02:24 PM by Larry Harsin

I've seen Cozy Cabs adapted. They don't make them anymore, but possibly you could find a used one and adapt it. The ad could be for an after market cab. I really don't remember of there ever being a cab for an 88, built by Oliver. Larry

1855 PTO

IP: 72.66.250.177 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 09:39:15 AM by Steve

have an 1855 that the pto quit suddenly under a hard pull going up hill, pulling a chopper. It will work when I first start the tractor, but after an hour it quits. Any suggestions?

Re(1): 1855 PTO

IP: 75.104.183.123 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 07:59:10 PM by Larry Harsin

It's quitting after the oil gets warmed up. That indicates that oil is leaking out of the clutch. When the oil is warmed up, there is less pressure Are you losing hydraulic oil? If you aren't losing hydraulic oil, you may be able to adjust or increase the pressure. Larry

1755 water in oil

IP: 71.185.206.187 Posted on April 24, 2009 at 02:38:29 AM by Steve

Larry - 1755 sat over winter. Now we are finding water in oil. Are there any diagnostic tests to do to tell if it would be from the head gasket or the sleeve orings. In your opinion where should we look first.

Re(1): 1755 water in oil

IP: 72.171.0.144 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 02:17:40 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

Is it water or coolant? Is the coolant level in the radiator low? You could possibly just have condensation in the oil from setting.

Re(2): 1755 water in oil

IP: 71.185.206.187 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 04:19:07 PM by steve

It is coolant. The coolant level drops as the level in the crankcase builds. We keep draining the water out of the crankcase.

Re(3): 1755 water in oil

IP: 75.104.183.123 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 07:55:44 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd say it is probably a sleeve O ring that is doing it. Usually I recommend that you tear the engine down. But recently, I have read about KW Block Seal. I haven't used it yet, but I have been told that it works if you use it EXACTLY as they tell you. It is made by CRC Industries. 800-556-5074 www.crcindustries.com Larry

steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 74.127.215.79 Posted on April 23, 2009 at 05:05:57 PM by anthony

the steering on our 1550 stops working at any given time. have changed steering moters and did pressure test has 1600psi any ideas we are stumped

Re(1): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 23, 2009 at 10:10:52 PM by Larry Harsin

If that is the main hydraulic system pressure, I'd raise it to 1900. You set it on the right side of the unit behind the filter. Put about 3 more shims in it. Then try it and see how it works. Larry

Re(2): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 69.168.144.148 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 05:13:36 AM by anthony

we have tried that already we took the pressure to 2200 and no change. any other ideas?

Re(3): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 4.248.223.27 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 06:10:06 PM by Larry from MD

Could the flow divider be sticking? Is the needle bearing jamming the shaft?

Re(4): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 75.104.183.123 Posted on April 25, 2009 at 08:07:44 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a problem in the steering column, above the hydra motor. It has to do with the telescoping steering wheel mechanism. There is a drive pin in there that may have worked out a little bit and it is binding on the steering column when you turn. Unbolt the outer sleeve of the steering column and raise it up and see if that is what is happening. Larry

Re(5): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 74.127.215.79 Posted on April 27, 2009 at 10:51:18 AM by anthony

thanks we will try these ideas and let u know if it helped or not. the steering wheel will turn but wheels wont. the telescopic did stop working about a month or so before steering started acting up.

Re(6): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 74.127.215.79 Posted on April 29, 2009 at 04:20:09 PM by anthony

we have tried all of the above that you have mentioned and still no luck . we are stumped any other ideas would but greatly apperciated

Re(7): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on April 29, 2009 at 06:52:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what else to add. Larry

Re(8): steering on a 1550 gas

IP: 74.127.215.79 Posted on April 30, 2009 at 05:53:33 PM by anthony

ya its quite puzzling we have also picked the brain of a guy in the local area that has had olivers since the 50s and hes at a loss to. thanks for your help if you have any other ideas i will keep an eye out for them and if we figure out the problem i will let you know so you can share it with others

2255 oil leaking

IP: 71.127.179.104 Posted on April 21, 2009 at 11:42:03 PM by Bud

If I fill the transmission on my 2255, oil pours out. As best I can tell it is coming out of the breather on the 4WD transfer case. I know that the trans oil should not be going forward into that unit. That leads to two questions. First, which of the seals in the transmission is the culprit and what can I do with it to get through spring work? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Re(1): 2255 oil leaking

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:50:15 AM by Larry Harsin

You are right. The oil in the transmission should not be getting into the transfer case. I would be tempted to remove the breather on the transfer case and plug it. Possibly, this will let you get by until you can get it repaired. Larry

Re(2): 2255 oil leaking

IP: 71.176.116.150 Posted on April 23, 2009 at 04:57:18 AM by Bud

I was thinking of plugging it, but thought that I would ask first. The fact that the oil can leak should also allow the gear box to breathe. At least it sounds good. Thanks!!!!!!

Re(3): 2255 oil leaking

IP: 69.57.24.49 Posted on April 29, 2009 at 05:56:38 PM by Neal elbert

There is a seal between the transfer case and the transmission that is oout. It is a very extensive project to do. A lot of these that I have seen have the brather taken out and a tube ran to the rear end dipstick and a breather put on there.

1955

IP: 216.254.239.3 Posted on April 21, 2009 at 01:24:53 PM by Bob Bennett

New purchase 1955 has Cat III hitch. Cylinders on hitch bottom out with about 3" still extended. Is there an adjustment on the control lever or do I need to look elsewhere? It has lot of lifting power just won't go down all the way.

Re(1): 1955

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:42:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. I haven't encountered this before. Call Tom at Sheldon and see what he says. 800-320-6224. Try removing the hoses from the cylinders and see if that will let them go on down. If it does, the problem would probably in the control part of the unit. I'm not sure what you will find there. Larry

Oliver Super 88 Diesel

IP: 66.254.199.60 Posted on April 21, 2009 at 12:58:20 PM by scott b

We had to replace the head on our Super 88, we are having problem getting oil to rocker arms, the old shaft was worn badly. We are wondering if we have hollow head bolt in wrong hole, looking for help as to where that bolt should be.

Re(1): Oliver Super 88 Diesel

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:38:33 AM by Larry Harsin

It's the rear head bolt hole on the engine. Larry

oliver 77

IP: 70.105.118.78 Posted on April 21, 2009 at 12:55:01 PM by farmboya

got a77 6 volt system with a 8 volt battery just had generators rebuilt installed it but it dont show that it is charging it shows it is losing about 5 amps any ideas

Re(1): oliver 77

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:34:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You are probably going to have to adjust the regulator a bit. There are 2 wires that go from the tractor to the regulator. Take those 2 wires and put them both on the front post of the regulator. Then, see if it will charge. If it charges, it means that the back set of points in your regulator, need to be cleaned and more tension on the springs. If it doesn't charge, you need to have more work done on the generator. Larry

Re(2): oliver 77

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:37:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Those work a little differently with an 8 volt battery. Take that generator back in to your repair shop and tell him that you are using an 8 volt battery and have him make the necessary adjustments for an 8 volt operation. Larry

1550 Over/ Under oil

IP: 24.58.191.161 Posted on April 20, 2009 at 08:48:59 PM by Jeffrey Rarick

Dear Larry, I just changed all the oil on the 1550 after purchase, and bought hyd-tran oil for the over/ under drive (2 speed). When I drained the system I discovered ATF fluid instead. Will the hyd- tran oil hurt the over under drive system? On A different note: the brakes are near shot and have no visible adjusters. Do I need to buy new pads or are these like clutch disks? Any good suppliers? We are also looking for a cast iron block that the the 3 point hitch lift arm rests against, I suppose it could be called a stop. It is the for the right side.

Re(1): 1550 Over/ Under oil

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:22:20 AM by Larry Harsin

I wouldn't use Hy-Tran in there. I would use ATF. You will have to take the brakes apart and clean and inspect them. There are adjusters on the brakes. You need to get an Operator's Manual so that you know what you are doing. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. For the brake parts, and the 3 point sway block, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I have been gone for a couple of days. Sorry for the slow reply. Larry

550 governor

IP: 70.187.30.74 Posted on April 20, 2009 at 03:29:18 PM by Larry K

Is there a difference between a governor for an Oliver 550 4 cylinder at 2200 rpm and a 77 that turns 1800 rpm. I took out the governor on my 550 and it looks okay with smooth action.

Re(1): 550 governor

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:14:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there is a difference. But, the 77 governor might work. Your governor for your 550 will have lighter weights, but still might work. Larry

1850 wheatland 1000 pto

IP: 12.50.117.180 Posted on April 19, 2009 at 04:24:31 PM by Noel Putman

Larry, above my 540 pto there is around plate with 4 bolts in it and a pry out cap in the center. I pried out the cap and what do you know, there is a 1000 pto female end in there. What parts do I need to put a 1000 pto output shaft on the tractor?

. Re(1): 1850 wheatland 1000 pto

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:11:56 AM by Larry Harsin

What you have found is your engine speed outlet. Also, rotation is counter clockwise. This outlet is used for something like an irrigation pump. For your 1000 PTO, it has to come out of the same place as your 540. Therefore, you have to have another shaft come out of the same hole, for your 1000 operation. Below your 540 shaft, there is a hole with some writing beside it. It will say 540 in or 540 out. If that hole has a shifter shaft in it, the necessary parts for dual speed operation are in your tractor. However, if there is no shifter rail in that hole, your tractor is a single speed unit. If you want to have 1000 and 540, that whole PTO unit has to be removed and the necessary parts installed to make it a dual speed unit. Larry

1550 gas carb

IP: 96.60.156.190 Posted on April 19, 2009 at 10:30:32 AM by MIke

I had a rebuilt carb put on my 1550 gas last fall. At an idol it runs fine. Under a load it almost quits and then takes off, then repeats. Any ideas? Thanks

Re(1): 1550 gas carb

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:01:32 AM by Larry Harsin

I would make sure that there is plenty of gas getting to the carb. Sometimes there is foreign material in the neck of fuel strainer. Larry

1655 pto spider

IP: 98.67.53.64 Posted on April 18, 2009 at 05:49:13 PM by Cleon Couey

Larry, I have tried for days to get the pto spider off the 1655.(The inside lock ring on the drive shaft has come off and the shaft is rubbing against the outside cover.) Should I just put something on the inside of the cover for the shaft to ride on, tack weld the shaft to the spider or what? I feel if I ever did get the large snap ring out of the inside of the spider that I may never get it back in place again. Suggestions?

Re(1): 1655 pto spider

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on April 18, 2009 at 09:15:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd get some different snap ring pliers or something to get that snap ring replaced. I don't think I'd start welding in there. You need to fix it the correct way. Some professional help might be in order. Larry

1750 hydraul shift

IP: 72.2.208.25 Posted on April 18, 2009 at 09:08:23 AM by caleb brown

i have a 1750 that slips in overdrive. it works fine in under and direct drive. the fluid level is good. what are the next things to check?

Re(1): 1750 hydraul shift

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on April 18, 2009 at 09:11:52 PM by Larry Harsin

You might have a bad over drive clutch. It will probably have to be torn down. Larry

Re(2): 1750 hydraul shift

IP: 72.2.208.25 Posted on April 19, 2009 at 07:32:08 AM by caleb brown

Today i tried a few things. It was slipping in 6th gear. I brought it back to the yard and shifted it to 3rd gear in overdrive and locked the right brake. The engine pulled down and left tire started spinning. It seemed not to slip then. So now im a little puzzled. If the clutch is bad shouldn't it slip in all gears? And I have a mannual for it and was thinking of rebuilding it myself. Are these hard to rebuild and where is the best place to get parts? I would like to do most the work myself to help control the cost.

Re(3): 1750 hydraul shift

IP: 75.105.44.198 Posted on April 22, 2009 at 06:55:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Then, I'm not sure that your problem is in the hydraul. It might be an engine clutch that is slipping. You'll have to check this out. I'd be reluctant to tear into that hydraul just yet. I would not recommend that you tear into that hydraul. I would take it to a qualified mechanic. Your AGCO dealer has the parts. Sorry for the slow reply. I have been gone for a couple of days. Larry

995 Lugmatic

IP: 67.244.158.232 Posted on May 4, 2009 at 10:50:25 AM by Cas

A fellow has an Oliver 995 Lugamatic. It runs good and sheet metal is fairly straight. There are few rust holes around the bottom of the fenders. Does anyone know what a fair price might be?

Re(1): 995 Lugmatic

IP: 75.104.168.52 Posted on May 8, 2009 at 08:07:48 PM by Larry Harsin

This is just a shot in the dark, but I believe I'd start with a $10,000 offer. Larry

RC 60 clutch/shifting

IP: 69.204.198.20 Posted on April 17, 2009 at 07:17:14 PM by Bill C

I recently came to be the proud owner of a 1946 Row Crop 60. I replaced the clutch plate. The throw-out bearing was not sloppy at all, so I forced a little clean grease into it around the shield and re-used it. Now that it's all together, the drive shaft will spin when the clutch is pushed in. You can wedge a two by four in there and stop it from spinning, but when you let go, it spins. SO I either start it in gear or, when it's in gear and running I can push in the clutch and shift quickly from one gear to the other without grinding. Is it improperly adjusted? Something else I'm missing? THanks!

Re(1): RC 60 clutch/shifting

IP: 75.104.161.80 Posted on April 18, 2009 at 09:08:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I would say it is probably improperly adjusted. Larry

550 Toe In

IP: 72.46.182.167 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 10:12:20 AM by Lyle

Larry, what is the toe in for a 550? thanks Lyle

Re(1): 550 Toe In

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 17, 2009 at 06:01:53 AM by Larry Harsin

It is 1/2 to 3/4 inch. Larry

1850 oil pressure

IP: 74.204.19.2 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 10:09:46 AM by Jim

Larry When I replaced a faulty oil pressure guage in a recently purchased 1850 gas I found that it's only carrying about 10 lbs. of pressure. I know the line running up to the guage is clear, what is my next step? I didn't know if there is a relief valve spring that could be bad. Can this be checked externally? I assume the pan will need to come off to inspect the oil pump, what should I look for then? I plan to inspect the rod/main bearings while the pan is off, are they difficult to change? Thanks for your great site.

Re(1): 1850 oil pressure

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 09:02:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is remove the little plug on the right front corner of the engine block, below the alternator. Check to see if the plunger for that relief valve is seated toward the engine - pushed in all of the way. This could be the problem. If this doesn't help, remove the pan and check bearings, both rod and main. If they check out o.k., then, I would check out the regulator valve on the oil pump. Normally this engine carries 35 - 50 lbs of pressure. I don't like to see them with less than 20. The rods and mains aren't difficult to change. They can be changed from underneath. This info is for an 1850 gas. You didn't say gas or diesel. Larry

1850 oil pressure

IP: 74.204.19.2 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 10:09:46 AM by Jim

Larry When I replaced a faulty oil pressure guage in a recently purchased 1850 gas I found that it's only carrying about 10 lbs. of pressure. I know the line running up to the guage is clear, what is my next step? I didn't know if there is a relief valve spring that could be bad. Can this be checked externally? I assume the pan will need to come off to inspect the oil pump, what should I look for then? I plan to inspect the rod/main bearings while the pan is off, are they difficult to change? Thanks for your great site.

Re(1): 1850 oil pressure

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 09:02:21 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is remove the little plug on the right front corner of the engine block, below the alternator. Check to see if the plunger for that relief valve is seated toward the engine - pushed in all of the way. This could be the problem. If this doesn't help, remove the pan and check bearings, both rod and main. If they check out o.k., then, I would check out the regulator valve on the oil pump. Normally this engine carries 35 - 50 lbs of pressure. I don't like to see them with less than 20. The rods and mains aren't difficult to change. They can be changed from underneath. This info is for an 1850 gas. You didn't say gas or diesel. Larry

white 4-150

IP: 97.112.112.58 Posted on April 15, 2009 at 08:01:17 PM by scott

will the bellhousing out of this tractor work on any other engine

Re(1): white 4-150

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 08:53:42 PM by Larry Harsin

That is for a Caterpiller engine and I really don't know what it will interchange with. You could call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, and ask him. Larry

Re(2): white 4-150

IP: 97.112.112.58 Posted on April 17, 2009 at 03:30:31 PM by scott

Thanks for the info talked to Tom He has been very helpful

super 55 hyd valve

IP: 209.197.168.189 Posted on April 15, 2009 at 08:01:01 PM by Rick

hi larry , would like to remove a loader from a 1956 super 55 , has an aftermarket loader with a factory external hydraulic valve on right side of housing below seat . to remove this valve from the tractor , can the holes remaining be plugged with pipe plugs or do i need a special plate for oil to flow when tractor is running . if a plate or housing is needed , are they available from agco or used ? thanks ,rick

Re(1): super 55 hyd valve

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 08:51:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You will need a little plate that is held on with 3 bolts. You can't plug those holes or it won't work. Call Kent Gorden in Palestine TX and see if he has one of those plates. He has parted out several S55's and 550's. Phone: 903-729-8349. Larry

Oliver Super 77 RC Gas- Front Axle Seals

IP: 76.211.27.179 Posted on April 15, 2009 at 04:10:19 PM by Terry Allen

Tricycle dual front end: When installing the front seals, should the rubber face of the seal extend beyond the hub to correctly contact metal wearing cup?

Re(1): Oliver Super 77 RC Gas- Front Axle Seals

IP: 75.104.183.118 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 08:48:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Not normally, but you may have a hub where the flange is broken off. Then the seal is exposed. But it will still work. Larry

pull 1850 engine

IP: 64.68.180.92 Posted on April 14, 2009 at 07:29:24 PM by roger arlt

i have a1850 diesel need to put in new sleeves or hone was run hot can ihone with out pulling the motor can i put new sleeves in with out pulling the motor is it possiable to pull the pan while in the tractor

Re(1): pull 1850 engine

IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on April 15, 2009 at 06:09:05 AM by Larry Harsin

That can be done without removing the engine. It is possible to pull the pan while it is in the tractor. Larry

1936 Oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 205.188.116.207 Posted on April 12, 2009 at 08:30:06 PM by Nick Misch

I have a 1936 Oliver Hart Parr 70, and I am wanting to put it back on its original set of steel wheels. I want to know what is the best way to take the rear tires, rims, hubs and all off. The rear hubs and everything are oliver, i just don't know how they come off. Such as what bolts need to be taken loose and what order things need to be taken off.

Re(1): 1936 Oliver Hart Parr 70

IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on April 13, 2009 at 06:07:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Where the hubs are splined to the axle, they are taper-locked. The wheel itself has to be pushed in toward the tractor before the hub will loosen on the axle shaft. There are 2 styles of these tapered hubs. The earlier style has shoulders on the 4 bolts and simply backing the bolts out to push the hub away from the wheel, does it. If you have the later style, you loosen all 4 first, then remove 2 and screw these 2 into the threaded holes between where they were. These are used to push the wheel away from the hub. Then, the hub can be freed up and slid off of the axle. Larry

1855 diesel lifter

IP: 71.60.32.245 Posted on April 12, 2009 at 04:19:21 PM by joe

I pulled my valve cover to adjust the valves (had valve noise, no miss though) and found a bent push rod. The lifter moves freely when cranking the motor. Only thing that seems odd is the lifter won't "slide up with suction" when a push rod is pulled out. The other 15 do but this one doesn't. Any ideas?

Re(1): 1855 diesel lifter

IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on April 12, 2009 at 05:24:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Just put in a good push rod and try it. Larry

2255 PTO

IP: 209.197.171.117 Posted on April 12, 2009 at 08:50:20 AM by rick

Hi larry , have a 2255 with leak out pto shaft , can this be repaired by removing the pto shaft and replacing a seal or does the whole pto assembly have to come off off the rear of the tractor ? Is a two speed pto with top hole for engine speed function as well . If the pto has to come off , any special tools needed for repairs , former owner said he thought pto did not run at proper speed when under medium to heavy load , Thanks ,Rick .

Re(1): 2255 PTO

IP: 75.104.190.102 Posted on April 12, 2009 at 05:23:13 PM by Larry Harsin

I would try removing the bottom output shaft and replacing the bearing itself on that shaft and that O ring where the bearing seals in the housing, to see if it would stop the leak. If you have more problems, as far as the speed and the slippage, then you have to remove the whole unit from the tractor. For this, I would recommend you get a Shop Manual from Charles City 641-228-1099, or have a qualified person do it. Larry

oliver 70 dipstick

IP: 67.20.244.114 Posted on April 8, 2009 at 07:14:59 PM by D H in PA

Larry,I am getting oil out of my dipstick.Should there be a seal inside the stick cover? thanks DH

Re(1): oliver 70 dipstick

IP: 75.104.189.210 Posted on April 8, 2009 at 09:02:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. You may have "blow by" coming around the rings, causing a build up of pressure in the crankcase. Check the breather on top of the valve cover and make sure it isn't plugged. Larry

1550 eng swap

IP: 75.117.187.119 Posted on April 8, 2009 at 05:28:28 AM by jim

will a 770 diesel engine fit in a 1550

Re(1): 1550 eng swap

IP: 75.104.189.210 Posted on April 8, 2009 at 06:08:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. They are the same engine family. Larry

70 clutch

IP: 151.197.35.62 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 06:51:56 PM by andy

put new clutch & pressure plate in 1943 70. but clutch won't release. was told by person wher we got assy. that we may have to adj. fingers. i don't see how this would help. only about 1 thread showing aboe nut plus they pened the end of stud. any suggestions?

Re(1): 70 clutch

IP: 75.104.189.210 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 11:33:51 PM by Larry Harsin

Normally you don't have to adjust the fingers, but I suppose it might need it. It will have to be your call. Larry

oliver 60 oil pump

IP: 96.235.252.138 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 05:55:18 PM by dave shagla

How do you remove an oil pump from a 120 waukashaw oliver engine

Re(1): oliver 60 oil pump

IP: 67.142.130.25 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 08:56:37 PM by Brian Jasper co. Ia

With the oil pan off, there is 1 bolt that holds it in. Remove that bolt and work the pump back and forth pulling it out of the block. If it's really stuck, and you're overhauling the engine, leave it in and send the block off to be hot tanked. The springs and vanes are still available.

Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 96.245.126.108 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 04:49:21 AM by Steve

Larry - We have the head off of a Oliver 880 Diesel. Couple of questions. 1. - there are fine hairline cracks from the bottom of the injector port into the cyliner area - 1/4 inch. People are telling us that is normal don't worry about it. Doesn't appear to be into any water jacket. What is your opinion ? 2. We think head is warped - can get .004 gauge under straight edge at center of head. What is the acceptable clearance ? Thanks for you help - Steve

Re(1): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 75.104.189.210 Posted on April 7, 2009 at 11:36:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Cracks like that are a normal thing on an older engine like that - nothing to get worked up about. I would take the head to a machine shop and have it trued up. Larry

Super 55 Bearing Race removal

IP: 98.30.139.227 Posted on April 6, 2009 at 01:28:12 PM by Roy Fleming

I need to replace the bearing and race at the lower end of the steering tube. How do you get the race out?

Re(1): Super 55 Bearing Race removal

IP: 75.104.189.104 Posted on April 6, 2009 at 07:28:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Use an internal race pulling slide hammer. That is what I use. Snap-on Tools or Mac Tools have it. You might be able to use an acetylene torch to cut the race and that would make it free up so you can pull it out. Larry

1600 oliver generator

IP: 216.170.153.151 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 10:27:40 PM by tom

hi i have a 1600 oliver gas. i have a generator on there now but its not charging the battery. i am looking to install a alternator on there. do you know what i would have to do or what i would need to do that

Re(1): 1600 oliver generator

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 5, 2009 at 06:07:26 AM by Larry Harsin

You'd have to go to negative ground system, by turning the battery around. Change the wires on the ignition coil so that the negative post wire goes to the distributor. The positive post wire goes to the switch. Those are the 2 main things to do. Larry

550 carb adjustment

IP: 68.224.163.239 Posted on April 3, 2009 at 06:59:12 PM by Larry K

I cannot get my professionally rebuilt carb on a 550 with the side throttle spring to adjust to 2200 RPM. The best I can get is 1700 rpm. I have followed the instruction in an original Oliver Manual: 1/16th over travel with the link between governor and throttle shaft I am at full maximum adjustment on the hand throttle rod to the governor and its is 1700 max and then my idle speed is up to 1000 RPM. I can manually push on the throttle shaft on the carb and get 2200 RPM. The book says to have 21 live coils on the spring, and I tried 19 and still cannot get it to idle at 400 and top RPM of 2200. What do I need to do next to get the throttle system set up?

Re(1): 550 carb adjustment

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 03:15:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd go to 18 active coils. You may have your bumper spring, on the front of the governor, screwed in too far. If you can't get the rpms you want, with 18 active coils, you should get a new spring. Then, if you still can't get the rpms, someone may have replaced the governor with one that has too heavy weights inside. Larry

1655 brakes

IP: 98.67.49.234 Posted on April 3, 2009 at 04:36:11 PM by Cleon Couey

While my platforms and battery boxes are off, seemed like the perfect time to overhaul the brakes. Got the disks and actuators out. Lot of oil and grime in there. Can't figure out how to get the oil cups and seals out. Tried to loosen the brake housing but seems to be stuck. Any suggestions?

Re(1): 1655 brakes

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 03:09:59 PM by Larry Harsin

THAT IS NOT A SIMPLE THING TO WORK ON! ! That brake housing is not supposed to be taken off. Those seals have to be removed from the outside and not disturbing the brake housings. I'm reluctant to replace those seals unless they are really leaking badly. If you feel you must replace those seals, you have to pry those shields out of there and you'll have to replace them with new ones. Then, you have to drill holes in your seal and use a screw as a puller and pull the seals out of the brake housing. This can be a long, involved, difficult procedure. You have to be careful not to jim up the place where the seal surfaces run. A couple of side points: Be sure that you don't have water in your trans. oil. And if it hasn't been changed in the last year or two, I'd drain it and replace it using 80-90 trans. oil. Those seals are going to leak if there is water in there. Larry

1655 hydraulic pump drive

IP: 98.67.49.234 Posted on April 3, 2009 at 04:17:50 PM by Cleon Couey

Hydraulic pump drive idler gear bearing failed and shaft support was destroyed when idler gear got hung up.Got identical used one from O'Brien Implement.Now the new bearing won't slide into the gear bore. It slides onto the shaft support like it's supposed to. Does it have to be pressed into the gear? Seems like that much force would damage the bearing.

Re(1): 1655 hydraulic pump drive

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 03:01:42 PM by Larry Harsin

It probably is a pressed fit. Call Tom at O'Brien and ask him. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on April 3, 2009 at 12:35:10 PM by Mack

How do you remove the rear axel carrier on an Oliver 550. I have removed the Axel and all bolts around the housing that bolts to the tractor body. I have put pressure on the inside of the tractor case against the axel carrier and it will not budge. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 02:59:30 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a snap ring that holds the bull gear on the axle. You will have to remove that. You'll have to take the hydraulic unit off and go in that way. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 05:57:58 PM by Mack

I have done all of that. I just can't seem to get the housing to release from where it slides through the transmission case.

Re(3): Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 5, 2009 at 06:10:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Where the 3 pt. hitch arm attaches to the tractor, there might be a screw there that is holding it. Otherwise, I'm not sure what is holding it. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 74.167.48.241 Posted on April 8, 2009 at 04:43:31 PM by Mack

Larry, I have all of the bolts out, Axle removed and I have beat on the housing and it will not budge. Could the gasket where the housing bolts to the transmission be holding it that tight? I am at a loss as to what to do. Thanks, Mack

Re(5): Oliver 550 - Rear Axel Carrier

IP: 72.46.182.167 Posted on April 16, 2009 at 10:10:23 AM by Lyle

Mack: these things can be really tight you might have to put a small jack on the inside of the rear end housing and put a little pressure on it while beating on the end of the axle ass. be very carefull the rear end housing is pretty thin you dont want to crack it, I used a old pto shaft out of a 1955 to hit on the axle with, you might break the axle but they are available all over- good luck

1800 carb

IP: 166.128.9.118 Posted on April 3, 2009 at 06:03:36 AM by Larry Nichols

I have a '63 1800B w/a MS USX 32-1 carb. The tractor will start and run for about 15-20 seconds if it is choked, then dies out as if starving for fuel. I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the diaphram in the float bowl cover, and even tried an electric fuel pump feeding from a gas can to eliminate fuel pump/line/tank issues, with no change. Is it possible that I missed something in the carb, or do I just need to bite the bullet for a new one.

Re(1): 1800 carb

IP: 75.104.182.66 Posted on April 4, 2009 at 02:55:28 PM by Larry Harsin

You may not have the float level set properly. Make sure the float is not catching on the side of the carb and can move freely. If that is o.k, change it so it can get a higher fuel level in the carb. Larry

oliver 70 row crop

IP: 69.207.193.178 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 07:47:13 PM by Charles from Sparta NY

Hello. I have an oliver 70 row crop, mid 40's year. For the last 3 months it has been out in the weather with only the exhaust covered and no side panels. This tractor has always been undercover and never had an issue starting. Well, now it won't start and has no spark. Could this be the coil from the rain and snow exposure? Any help to prevent a complete disaster when I put the wrench in my hand would be helpful and most certainly appreciated. This tractor is one of my "babies". We needed the barn for my truck to be torn down which unfortunately left old olly outside. Also, where is a good place to get the ignition parts?

Re(1): oliver 70 row crop

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 09:36:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I would check the distributor cap and make sure it doesn't have water in it. You can get ignition parts in a NAPA store. Larry

1850 hydraulics

IP: 165.234.40.218 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 02:54:57 PM by Dan

Is it possible to add an auxiliary hydraulic pump to the shaft below the injection pump on the 354 Perkins?

Re(1): 1850 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 09:34:23 PM by Larry Harsin

No. Don't do that. It wasn't designed to run a hydraulic pump. That drive is just designed to run a little air compressor such as for air brakes on a truck. Larry

transmission oil

IP: 98.67.52.61 Posted on April 1, 2009 at 09:30:44 PM by Cleon Couey

My transmission oil was milky looking and I changed it and it's still milky looking. I've heard this is a sign of water. I put some of the oil in the freezer to test for water and heated some to see if it would pop like water in hot oil. No popping just a lot of foam when heated and oil did not freeze just thick as molasses.I just spent $91 on this oil and don't want to discard it. Will it hurt my transmission?

Re(1): transmission oil

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 09:32:22 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it will. If it is new oil, it will be o.k. Larry

Cockshutt 1900

IP: 64.201.81.239 Posted on April 1, 2009 at 09:13:32 PM by brad

i have a ####shutt 1900 and my dad took the battery out and now i'm sure the neg terminal was going to the starter. does this tractor have a 12v pos or neg ground? my 1900 has a 4-53 dd in it.

Re(1): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 4.248.220.32 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 10:23:24 AM by Larry from MD

It should have a generator and be pos. ground. If its been changed to an alternator then it would be neg ground.

Re(2): Cockshutt 1900

IP: 75.104.191.151 Posted on April 2, 2009 at 09:30:49 PM by Larry Harsin

It is positive ground. Larry

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