1600 radiator top hose

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 29, 2011 at 10:56:15 AM by dennis o'connor

This hose has suddenly become a problem... Korves Oliver tells me it is 1&1/2" hose but the top neck on the engine thermostat housing is 2" OD.. Do you have a source for this hose?

Re(1): 1600 radiator top hose

IP: 75.105.54.64 Posted on April 30, 2011 at 07:07:36 AM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to get one of those from an AGCO dealer. You can call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. They will need to know the dimensions of your hose. Larry

1650

IP: 65.31.5.45 Posted on April 28, 2011 at 09:50:15 PM by bob

I have an early 1650 diesel and its a dog. we would like to know how to turn the fuel up just a touch to make it come alive. its way under powered. thanks bob

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.105.54.64 Posted on April 30, 2011 at 07:05:37 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a smoke screw at the back of the governor housing on the back of your pump. It sets there at an angle. Just loosen the lock nut and back the screw out about a half turn at a time. Then, try it. See if that helps. Then, maybe another 1/2 turn etc. Larry

1600 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 28, 2011 at 01:36:32 PM by denny-o

Service manual says to fill with 10 wt motor oil and an additive... Is that how you do it, or go to hydraulic fluid? For our bulldozer, ryc. I tend to use #42 hyd fluid..

Re(1): 1600 Hydraulic fluid

IP: 75.105.54.64 Posted on April 30, 2011 at 07:02:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I recommend a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry

550 Oliver lift

IP: 75.106.16.16 Posted on April 27, 2011 at 02:14:33 PM by Tommy

Larry I have a 550 Oliver that I take to the tractor shows and it's only ran about once a month. The lift suddenly quit working I can jack the plow up and the lift will keep it up, but when I let it down it won't pick it back up. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 550 Oliver lift

IP: 75.104.161.103 Posted on April 27, 2011 at 03:13:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If it has a remote valve for a remote cylinder, just start the tractor and wiggle that control valve back and forth rapidly. Keep doing this for a couple of minutes if necessary. This will usually fix it. All I have found that it is, is a spool that is sticky in the bore of the control valve on the remote or the one inside the tractor. Usually this will bring them back to life. Larry

1855 hydraulics

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on April 26, 2011 at 09:05:54 PM by dan

I recently picked up an 1855 that has the usual hydraulic leak into the transmission. I plugged off the PTO actuator lines and that seemed to stop the loss of hyd fluid. Since I've had it, the steering barely works, or not well, the 3pt doesnt work and I get nothing but a slow flow of fluid out of the remote ports. I changed the hyd oil, filter and a bunch of the bad lines... still acts the same. The cooling pump is working as I cracked the line and have good flow there. I am pretty sure all the air is bled out. I can tell one of the lines on the pump has pressure and the pump does get hot after awhile. Where should I start?

Re(1): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.161.103 Posted on April 27, 2011 at 06:28:00 AM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like your pump isn't moving the oil like it should. I would put on a flow rater to check the pump and a pressure gauge to check the pressure. Larry

Re(2): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on May 2, 2011 at 08:54:55 PM by Dan

I put a pressure gauge on the Pressure control valve and got a max reading of 1400 psi at full throttle. I have no flo-rator so I can't do anything with that. Any other ideas of what to try next? I did have the whole valve assemblys off (under the pump) and went thru each of them and didn't find any major problems.

Re(3): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.168.235 Posted on May 4, 2011 at 06:28:54 AM by Larry Harsin

That pressure reading is too low. Turn the adjustment in on the compensating valve on the pump and see if you can get enough pressure on the main relief valve body (below the pump). You should get 3000 lbs. there before that valve unseats. Then, when you get that, back the adjustment on the compensating valve to 2100 - 2200 lbs. Larry

Re(4): 1855 hydraulics

IP: 66.31.130.4 Posted on May 4, 2011 at 08:56:03 PM by Dan

The compensator on this pump doesnt appear to be adjustable,except with shims maybe? It has a plug on the end only... nothing that can be adjusted.

1650 Diesel

IP: 97.92.168.252 Posted on April 25, 2011 at 07:54:46 PM by smerr

I have a 1965 1650 diesel (indirect injection) that always runs rough for a minute or two after starting and has white smoke (regardless of the air temperature). After that, it runs smooth with no smoke. I also should mention it starts easy in cold weather. Any ideas? I am considering having the injectors rebuilt and cleaning the energy cells. I thought I would run this by you before I proceed.

Re(1): 1650 Diesel

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 26, 2011 at 05:55:24 PM by Larry Harsin

That is normal for that engine. You can work and work and work and you will not improve it. Maybe a tiny bit. I wouldn't tear it down for just this. Larry

Oliver 70 camshaft

IP: 71.42.141.133 Posted on April 25, 2011 at 04:09:54 PM by Craig Scott

Will the camshaft from a Hart-Parr Oliver 70 interchange with an Oliver 70 built in 1947?

Re(1): Oliver 70 camshaft

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 26, 2011 at 05:52:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will. Larry

88 Side curtains

IP: 64.17.77.15 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 08:55:31 AM by chad

I was told that 88 gas front side curtains are the same as a 88 diesel, is this true? I know that the 77 and 66 curtains are diffrent. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): 88 Side curtains

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 11:42:46 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. 88 gas and diesel is the same side panels. Larry

Super 55 3pt arms won't lower all the way

IP: 74.5.157.248 Posted on April 23, 2011 at 10:54:41 AM by Rod

I wrote last week asking about a Super 55 with a couple different issues relating to the 3pt arms, and you suggested I tear the hydraulics apart and look inside. I have done that and found that some small adjustments were needed for the internal settings for both position control and for draft, and I'm pretty sure that some larger adjustments will be needed for the external draft control settings. What I'm trying to understand though, is how low the lift arms should go. With the unit off of the tractor, I was able to measure that the upper lift arms only go about 1/2 inch lower than the bottom lip of the hydraulic unit. Is that right? Or could I have something preventing the hydraulic piston from going all the way in, and thus holding the arms up higher? When I bought the tractor, I could swear that the lower lift arms could go down to maybe 8 inches from the ground and now I find they can only go down to 16 inches off the ground, which is too high to engage my mower deck. Thanks for all the help you have provided over the years, Rod

Re(1): Super 55 3pt arms won't lower all the way

IP: 69.72.27.25 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 06:57:54 AM by Larry from MD

Its a good idea to replace the seal (oring) on the piston while you have it apart anyway, so i would look inside.

Re(2): Super 55 3pt arms won't lower all the way

IP: 74.5.157.248 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 03:38:18 PM by Rod Lehman

I pulled the cylinder off and I'm having trouble trying to get the piston out to see what's in behind it. I've tried tilting it uphill and knocking on it from the bottom with a piece of wood, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. Any suggestions of other ways to get it out?

Re(3): Super 55 3pt arms won't lower all the way

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 25, 2011 at 07:00:11 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a pipe plug on the front of the cylinder. Remove that and use compressed air to get it apart. Larry

Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 03:36:22 PM by dennis oconnor

Just bought what I believe is an Oliver 4240 for $200... 3 bottom 14" with a lift cylinder... Junk tires, but they hold air... The moldboards are JD parts... Wiese HS314 on two, and no markings I can see on the third... The shares are so so and it needs a new shin plate on one bottom... Anyway, is it common for these plows to be changed to JD bottoms?

Re(1): Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 23, 2011 at 07:35:05 AM by Larry Harsin

No. It is not common for them to be JD. If they fit, it's o.k. If you need an Oliver bottom, I might have one. I need to know the number you need, that is on the bottom of the Oliver moldboard. 712-362-2966. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 209.50.27.95 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 00:44:15 AM by BASTAR

4240 plows have two beams that go the the front cross piece, can be either two or three bottom. 4340 plows have three beams that come to the front cross piece and can be either a three or four bottom, yours is a 4340. Why would anyone want to take off the best moldboards made and put on JD. It porbably worked so good that he completely used up the original and had a JD sitting around that he hadn't used and put them on to sell!

Re(3): Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 209.165.252.102 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 08:59:14 PM by Chris Losey

I think you are going to find that all the bottoms are John Deere, probably because the whole plow is. That is not an Oliver plow.

Re(1): Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 24, 2011 at 11:38:37 PM by Larry Harsin

Well, I took a better look at this plow and it is a John Deere plow. Thanks, Chris. I had only glanced at it originally, as Sandy runs the computer. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 4240 plow

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 25, 2011 at 06:28:24 PM by denny-o

Well, if it is JD that answers why the JD points... I don't know enough to have a preference.... TSC has JD plow parts so that makes it simple... Now I'm on the hunt for a disc harrow...

1600 Wishbone bushings

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 03:22:16 PM by dennis oconnor

Along with doing lots of fix up on this tractor I have noticed that when you start forward there is significant rearward twist of the front axle before the wishbone finally snubs it... It looks like there is a bushing on the end of each wishbone rod... I haven't found a part number for that yet... Do you have it? It is all steel?

Re(1): 1600 Wishbone bushings

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 23, 2011 at 07:28:10 AM by Larry Harsin

There is not a bushing on the wishbone where it goes into the axle. There is a bushing on the center pivot and a bushing at the rear of the wishbone on that pivot. I tighten the nuts on the wishbone as tight as possible. Also, you may want to replace those lock washers, as they get worn. If it is worn extremely bad, I would weld the wishbone to the axle. Larry

Re(2): 1600 Wishbone bushings

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 25, 2011 at 06:31:05 PM by denny-o

Found the nuts were not tight... I put the 3/4 drive socket and air wrench on them, turned a solid quarter turn... We will see... If the axle still rocks back and forth I will try changing the locknuts...

55 or super 55 also pto parts

IP: 69.8.46.92 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 01:40:49 PM by Randall

Is there such a thing as a "55" or is it a "super 55"? Also my brother-in-law is looking for pto parts for his "55" would happen to have these parts? thanks

Re(1): 55 or super 55 also pto parts

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 23, 2011 at 07:25:06 AM by Larry Harsin

It is Super 55. There is no 55. We don't have PTO parts for them, but we do have transmission and some of the other parts. 712-362-2966. Kent Gordon in Palestine TX has a lot of S55 and 550 parts, as he has parted out many of them. 903-729-8349. Larry

770 tach

IP: 184.19.194.45 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 07:08:36 PM by dustin riner

i just bought an oliver 770. the rpms read on the tach but the hours dont. do i need to buy a new tack or is it something electrical or is it the cable? thanks.

Re(1): 770 tach

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 07:15:50 AM by Larry Harsin

If it shows the rpms, then the gears required to turn the hours aren't working. Korves Oliver has new tachs. 618-939-6681. Metro Speedometer in Independence MO can repair the one you have, 816-478-0116. Larry

TSX 603 Venturi diameter

IP: 163.205.106.28 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 10:26:39 AM by Carl "Bo" Boyette

To make a painful story short, I need a venturi for the Marvel Schebler TSX 603 carburetor on my Super 55. I cannot find the diameter for the venturi in the 1400 page shop manual(i could be blind) the closest reference is 19/32 diameter for the 550 comment I saw on one of the boards. Any Ideas?

Re(1): TSX 603 Venturi diameter

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 10:35:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I do not have one. So, I can't measure one. The Oliver part number is: L7638. I hope that can help you. Larry

(2): TSX 603 Venturi diameter

IP: 206.193.240.119 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 10:39:44 AM by Dale H

try Treadwell carb co. 607-829-8321

drive chain

IP: 72.251.63.139 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 10:10:53 AM by Corre

larry is there a correct way to line up the spockets put new chain on and tractor vibrates know I looked in manual but not much help I notice ajustment screws under hydro but didnt move anything yet Thanks for your help

Re(1): drive chain

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 07:33:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure they are in the correct alignment and make sure the engine bolts are tight. I have seen cases where the pads and engine mounts were worn, because the bolts had been loose. This may mean that you would have to make some shims between the engine and the frame. Larry

ROPS for older Oliver

IP: 99.92.178.91 Posted on April 19, 2011 at 11:00:08 AM by HH/Mineral Point

Good Morning- what should I look for in an after-market ROPS for a 1962 Oliver 550? Also, was a belly mower ever made for this year/model? Thank you!

Re(1): ROPS for older Oliver

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 07:18:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Saginaw County Tractor Parts 810-638-5787 for info about after-market ROPS. I don't know about any belly mowers. You could check with your local Woods Mower dealer. In our town, it is the Case-IH dealer. 712-362-3596. I checked with them and they have a Universal model that might work. He would need your measurements, etc. Larry

1650 input sprocket

IP: 163.153.134.17 Posted on April 19, 2011 at 10:33:25 AM by robert lapage

Hi Larry.. Well we changed the input shaft in a 1650 and the sprockets with new. After putting everything back together, the sprockets are the right height but they are alittle off. They are off about 1/4 inch. The chain went on but slightly crooked, not too sure why it isnt a perfect fit. The side to side is very close as well as the top and bottom but the gear tooth is slightly off. Will this effect the chain from working properly? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 75.104.168.200 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 07:03:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, you will have to get it lined up better. I can't tell you what you will have to do, but you have to get it to run straighter than that. Larry

Re(2): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 69.72.27.20 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 11:07:08 AM by Larry from MD

Check the bolts holding the frame and transmission together are tight. Also check that you have the right 2 alinement bolts holding the engine in. You may have to add shims.

Re(3): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 71.164.69.147 Posted on April 20, 2011 at 07:28:15 PM by robert lapage

Well we did add a shim, it isnt off rt or lf, up or down. It is off the face way. Both sprockets were new. I couldnt understand it till I put the chain on and it is slightly crooked but went on... Thanks for the advice. Do you think it will last. I didnt get a new chain, but dont think it will make a difference. Thanks again

Re(4): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 69.72.27.33 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 06:21:52 AM by Larry from MD

Any mis alinement will cause wear.The more it is off the more it wears.Most people use a new chain when you replace both sprokets.If you are saying the sprokets come together at an angle i would say look closely at where the frame and trans bolt together if there is a gap anywhere you may need to loosen and clean between them and retighten.

Re(5): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 163.153.134.17 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 10:32:31 AM by robert lapage

It isn't at an angle. It is like it is off a spline, but it can't be. The sprockets touch but it acts like the sprockets are not identical... If the top lines up then the botton is off a few degrees. I don't think I am explaining it clearly. thanks for the help!!!!

Re(6): 1650 input sprocket

IP: 69.72.27.173 Posted on April 21, 2011 at 08:16:36 PM by Larry from MD

You have counted the sprocket teeth right? The tractors above 70hp have one more tooth and bolt up to the 2 speed fine.

550 loader

IP: 74.14.72.114 Posted on April 18, 2011 at 04:07:56 PM by jamie

Larry, I'm looking for seal and o-ring kits for the cylinders on my 550 loader. Were all loaders the same or could this be an after market loader? I have a casting number off the cylinder end cap but my local farm(agco) dealership can't match it? Thanks

Re(1): 550 loader

IP: 75.104.169.29 Posted on April 19, 2011 at 07:28:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to determine what brand of loader you have. There should be a tag on it somewhere that identifies the brand. Then, look for the parts. If no one can identify it, you could take the cylinder to a hydraulic cylinder repair shop and see if they can help you. Larry

dirt seal on front wheel hub

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 16, 2011 at 06:50:51 PM by denny-o

I just pulled the left front hub off to repack the bearings... I do not see any form of a seal on the back side of the hub and the grease that was in that area was packed with dirt... The rear bearing remains serviceable... I ordered a service manual but it is not here yet... Any guidance on the seal (1600 wide front)? I don't see a seal listed in Steiners...

Re(1): dirt seal on front wheel hub

IP: 75.104.169.29 Posted on April 17, 2011 at 07:26:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there is a seal. There is a rubber seal in the hub that runs against a retainer that is on the spindle. You'll have to get these parts from your AGCO Dealer. Larry

Re(2): dirt seal on front wheel hub

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 03:18:46 PM by denny-o

Well, took the left front hub apart and inspected... Bearings good, seal shot... So ordered a pair of dust seals and wear cups for both hubs... Replacing the cup was not difficult... Put everything back together on the left and moved the cribbing to the right side and pulled that hub... Bearings shot! So, now I am waiting on bearings... Just when you think you have it figured out, it goes off into the weeds...

2-150 clutch

IP: 75.207.245.38 Posted on April 16, 2011 at 01:27:08 PM by Mark

How do you adjust a White 2-150 clutch

Re(1): 2-150 clutch

IP: 75.104.169.29 Posted on April 17, 2011 at 07:24:34 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't done that before. Get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Larry

Can a 1655 handle saddle tanks

IP: 144.92.16.249 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 09:42:43 PM by kevin

Hi Larry, Being the oliver guru that you are, I come to you for help. I want to put 2 150gal saddle tanks- frame mounted on my 1655. Is this going to crack the frame? Plus I'm going to have a 125gal 3 point sprayer on the back. I figure the tractor weighs 7500lbs and 425gal should give me a total tractor weight @11000lbs. I have some land that is a little wet in the spring. Hopefully with this set up I will be able to apply burn down before planting with out leaving to big of ruts. The tractor is outfitted with 11Lx15 fronts and 18.4x38's in the back. Thank you

Re(1): can a 1655 handle saddle tanks

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 15, 2011 at 07:01:25 AM by Larry Harsin

That tractor will handle it fine. Larry

Hart-parr Oliver 70

IP: 72.100.254.222 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 06:28:15 PM by Chad

I have a 1937 Hart-parr 70 It has a Zenith 393 carburetor. Do you know where I can get a kit for one or rebuilt one. I talked to Korves and they said they cant get any. He thought maybe Bill Cambell, but I thought I would talk to you first. Any help would be appreciated, thanks a lot Larry.

Re(1): Hart-parr Oliver 70

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 15, 2011 at 06:59:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know where you can get a kit for that carb. Check with Valu-Bilt. They have quite a selection of carbs and parts. Possibly you could send your carb to them and they could rebuild it. 888-828-3276 Larry

1850 flakes in oil filter

IP: 67.4.232.242 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 08:13:10 AM by Jason

engine started making noise and smoked a little so I took the oil filter out and there were copper or brass flakes on it, I was just wondering where to start looking to fix it.

Re(1): 1850 flakes in oil filter

IP: 69.72.27.1 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 05:09:53 PM by Larry from MD

Well that means bearings,wrist pin bushings and or thurst bearing.No good news if its any of them. Have to take the pan off and look them over.

Re(2): 1850 flakes in oil filter

IP: 67.4.232.242 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 09:32:09 PM by jason

where would be a good place to get parts, and how much would you estimate it may cost?

Re(3): 1850 flakes in oil filter

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 15, 2011 at 06:56:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the pan off of the engine and start checking bearings. If you want to price bearings, you can call me. I have some bearings. 712-362-2966. Larry

1555 exhaust pipe

IP: 72.18.113.164 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 09:32:50 PM by Larry Haugen

Do you have a recommendation for safely unscrewing the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold on my 1555? I can envision breaking the manifold if I torque on it too hard.

Re(1): 1555 exhaust pipe

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:24:58 AM by Larry Harsin

If you have to remove that pipe, I would use a hack saw and saw it off flush with the top of the manifold. Then, using a hack saw blade, saw down through the threads and using a small chisel, peel the pipe out of the threads. Larry

Price of paint

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 06:48:14 PM by dennis o'connor

Decided to paint some of the sheet metal that look tired - as long we are working on the Oliver 1600 doing mechanical stuff and taking panels off, etc... Went to the local paint supplier for body shops... They don't handle tractor enamel anymore... But he did offer acrylic enamel at $92 a quart! I think it is gonna stay tired looking..

Re(1): Price of paint

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:22:52 AM by Larry Harsin

That's more than I would pay for paint. I buy implement enamel from my local Farm store. Also, AGCO has good quality paint. It will be 1/3 higher than the Farm store. Larry

Re(2): Price of paint

IP: 69.72.27.248 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 11:47:22 AM by Larry from MD

Truevalue hardware has xorust in tractor colors and its the old type enamal. Don't buy rust oliem it has fish oil in it and the color does not match good.

Re(3): Price of paint

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 16, 2011 at 06:46:14 PM by denny-o

Meadow Green is not available (at least locally) in a premixed tractor paint... If I do touch up some parts probably will settle for the standard Oliver green which is darker - but we have to remember there is lots of battered old paint, and bare metal on the hitches, etc. showing so shade of touch up painting is not important... Plus I want to get the tractor back together and ready to work... Garden needs plowing within the next 2 weeks or so - though I have not found a plow yet... I did get a Caroni 8' finish mower in great shape and low hours for $800...

Re(4): Price of paint

IP: 199.150.177.21 Posted on April 19, 2011 at 01:20:43 PM by Gleanerguy

If you live in Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, or Iowa, both Blains Farm Fleet and Mills Fleet Farm carry "restoration series paint". Last I checked it was $15.99 a quart and it will give you an automotive quality finish, if you use their hardener. The hardener is about $27.00 for a small can, but a small can will go a long ways.

Re(5): Price of paint

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 22, 2011 at 03:27:12 PM by denny-o

Well, the local TSC has tractor enamel.. They did not have meadow green, but the medium green from the older Oliver tractor series was on the shelf... I am using that to touch up rust and make it look a bit better... They did not have Oliver white so I am using IHC cream white they had on hand... Ya, ya, I know - sacrilege... It's a user not a show piece...

Super 77 Diesel

IP: 72.12.208.194 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 10:00:19 AM by Patrick

What is the torque pattern and torque specs for the head bolts of a 1955 Super 77 Diesel.

Re(1): Super 77 Diesel

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:20:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Tighten from the center and work out in 10 lb. increments. I torque to 100 lbs., then start the engine and warm it up. After the engine cools down, I retorque the head. Larry

880 D cracked block

IP: 64.85.144.213 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 09:57:16 AM by Craig

Larry, Upon removal of the cylinder sleeves I noticed some hairline cracks between cylinder #1 & 2, 3 & 4, and 4 & 5. These cracks are at the thinnest point betweeen cylinders and extend down about two or three inches from the gasket face. Is this block usable or repairable? Thanks for your time.

Re(1): 880 D cracked block

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:17:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I think your block is probably useful. If that is what the cracks amount to, I would use it. Larry

Oliver 55 brakes

IP: 143.166.197.6 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 09:52:22 AM by Dave

I've replaced the 4 brakes disks on my Oliver 55, the right side adjusted and is working perfectly, the left side seems to be very tight no matter the adjustment. Is there something else I can look for or adjust?

Re(1): Oliver 55 brakes

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:15:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I would guess you have over-torqued the three 5/8' bolts that hold the brake housing together. Larry

880 Powersteering

IP: 76.76.46.234 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 04:02:58 PM by Ryan

Have a 880 D with powersteering just had the unit under the rad rebuilt. And it is still doing the same thing and spuing fluid from the ps pump. What it is doing is you can turn the wheel about two times each way before the steering works. could it be the power steering pump?

Re(1): 880 Powersteering

IP: 75.104.168.64 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 09:52:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you still have problems in the unit under the radiator. If you wish, you can send it to me and I will try to repair it. The charge will be time and material basis, if it is rebuildable. If you need the tractor right away, I can do an exchange with you for $500 if your unit is repairable. Larry

comments and question

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 11, 2011 at 07:16:49 PM by dennis o'connor

Well, we found the leaking exhaust manifold on our Oliver 1600 was burned beyond reasonable repair... I had asked Larry about milling the end of the intake and exhaust tubes as a unit... Bought a new exhaust manifold and just tonight finished up the reassembly... Also did a tune up (plugs/points/condenser/rotor/cap) and lashed the valves... It started right up and runs like a champ now... Not bad for an $1800 tractor... Two questions... Lots of slop in the front steering box (power boost steering) All comments on how to approach this, gratefully accepted... And, the adjustable three point lift rod (gear box with a rod that is threaded on the bottom end))is bent so you cannot rotate the gear box to level the hitch... Is this rod available...

Re(1): comments and question

IP: 75.104.168.64 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 07:13:00 AM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to check with your AGCO dealer about the availability of that part. The slop in the steering box could be where the pitman arm is attached to the pitman shaft. Otherwise, the pitman shaft may be loose in the steering cylinder. Larry

Re(2): comments and question

IP: 69.72.27.164 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 02:05:25 PM by Larry from MD

You could try to straighten the piece you have.They had lots of problems with those on 1600's and came out with an improved part that is larger in diameter.You had to buy both the shaft and the biger nut or bottem piece.Look around on the net you might find one somewhere cheaper than a dealer.

Re(3): comments and question

IP: 204.12.175.113 Posted on April 13, 2011 at 06:40:19 PM by dennis o'connor

Well, turns out the pitman shaft is corroded from water and the sleeve it turns in is worn oblong rather badly... I will try to find parts... Lacking that I will need a machine shop to lathe turn the shaft and a new sleeve to match the shaft OD... Probably not cheap given the price of machining time these days.. Surprisingly, the spline fit between the pitman arm and the shaft is serviceable...

Re(4): comments and question

IP: 75.104.161.76 Posted on April 14, 2011 at 07:30:04 AM by Larry Harsin

That sleeve that that pitman shaft turns in, is supposed to be a needle bearing. There are actually 2 needle bearings that that pitman fits into. Your AGCO dealer should have these. If your pitman shaft is beyond repair, I have a used one. 712-362-2966. Larry

torque spec.'s

IP: 174.59.14.113 Posted on April 11, 2011 at 02:57:50 PM by charles gilmer

I have an Oliver 550 diesel. The manual is over 140 dollars, the cheapest I found. I am also looking for an oil pan for this engine. I have tried a couple places and no luck. I was looking to find out what the main and rod bearing torque spec.'s are and what the sequence for them would be? does anyone know or can point me in the right direction? thank you.

Re(1): torque spec.'s

IP: 75.104.168.64 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 07:09:59 AM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver manual is higher because it is for more than one model Oliver. You can get an I & T Manual for about $25 and it will tell you what you need to know. It will tell you this info plus many other things about your tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(3): torque spec.'s

IP: 75.104.168.64 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 09:47:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have an oil pan. Check with Tim Smith 330-832-9792. Call him in the evening. Larry

1750 diesel trns input shaft

IP: 208.38.98.77 Posted on April 11, 2011 at 07:32:46 AM by Rod

The motor and transmission covers have been removed. I am having a tough time removing the old input shaft. What is the proper sequence to get the old shaft out?

Re(1): 1750 diesel trns input shaft

IP: 75.104.168.64 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 07:07:42 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a hidden snap ring in the input cluster. You have to remove the nut on the rear of the input shaft, before you try to open the cluster. You also have to remove the 3 bolts that hold the front bearing retainer. When you open the cluster, move the snap ring back out of the groove. Then, you'll need to make a tool to go between the cluster and the front frame, before you start driving the front input shaft forward. You should get a Shop Manual to explain these things in detail. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): 1750 diesel trns input shaft

IP: 208.38.98.77 Posted on April 12, 2011 at 03:20:54 PM by Rod

Thanks for the reply Larry. A 1 inch long piece of 3 inch ID pipe, cut in half lengthwise works for a spacer between the cluster and front frame. There is a second snap ring & a fiber washer behind/under the back side of the high/low gear. Had to drive shaft towards the back far enough to expose and cut the fiber washer which allowed the removal of the second snap ring. It took considerable force to get the shaft to come out the front. If there are any tricks to getting the new bearings and races installed smoothly, I would appreciate hearing about it.

Super 55 3ph arms won't lower all the way.

IP: 71.51.122.136 Posted on April 10, 2011 at 05:50:22 PM by Rod

I have a Super 55 Gas and today I just noticed that the lift arms won't go all the way down. Fully lowered, the connectors (what you attach to the implement)on the lower lift arms measure 19" off the ground, and fully raised they measure 39" off the ground. Also, I noticed that they stop going lower when the control lever still has about 25% of downward movement to go. And, finally, they only work in Position control. In draft control, I see no movement at all. There are 2 things that have happened recently that could have caused this. First, last fall, I replaced the gaskets in the hydraulic unit and cleaned it all up. I suppose I could have messed something up while I had it off. Second, today I did a little too much heavy lifting with the tractor and I pushed an 8" blade in reverse to repair a washed out driveway. At some point today, the lifting or pushing bent my manual lift arm leveler, so I know I was using it too hard. Do you think I could have just spun the upper lift arms on the cross shaft? Or do I have done something else? Do you think that the draft control is a separate issue from the height of the lift arms?

Re(1): Super 55 3ph arms won't lower all the way.

IP: 75.105.50.97 Posted on April 11, 2011 at 07:09:25 AM by Larry Harsin

I think there is something else causing your problem. The draft control is not a separate issue from the lift arms. That is all together on the inside. You will need to get a good Shop Manual to be able to get this issue resolved. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA . 641-228-1099. Larry

880 Power Boost

IP: 65.27.82.213 Posted on April 9, 2011 at 03:01:12 PM by Doug

I bought a 1958 Oliver 880 a few years ago and have now decided to restore the tractor. It didnt have the power boost lever on it but when I removed the side shields I realized that it had a power booster. The tractor works great in high range but when I drop the power booster into low range it holds a little bit to move the tractor ahead a few feet then slips. If I hold the brake and keep the tractor under a load the power boost holds in low range. Any ideas on what might be the cause of this? Thanks

Re(1): 880 Power Boost

IP: 75.105.50.97 Posted on April 11, 2011 at 07:04:43 AM by Larry Harsin

The sprag cluch is bad. You can get a new one from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you need the lever and the linkage, I have that. Larry

Number one cylinder

IP: 74.204.111.27 Posted on April 5, 2011 at 08:35:23 PM by Dean

I just bought a 1550 and the number one spark plug wire is the furthest to the rear, is this correct or should it be the furthest to the front of the tractor? On any other tractor I have worked on number one cylinder has always been in front, is Oliver the exception or did someone wire this one wrong?

Re(1): Number one cylinder

IP: 69.72.27.54 Posted on April 6, 2011 at 11:48:35 AM by Larry from MD

Number 1 is in the front.

Re(2): number one cylinder

IP: 75.105.50.97 Posted on April 7, 2011 at 07:02:54 AM by Larry Harsin

It should be the one from the front. You should get a manual for your tractor. You can get one from the museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry

880 Gemmer

IP: 173.24.200.2 Posted on April 4, 2011 at 12:59:14 PM by TYLER

I have a 59 880 with a wide front end and a gemmer power steering unit. There is a torque link to anchor the gemmer in place. There is a crack in the mounting for the torque link in the frame of the tractor. Can this be welded?

Re(1): 880 Gemmer

IP: 75.105.50.97 Posted on April 7, 2011 at 06:59:35 AM by Larry Harsin

I would say it probably could. I'd consult with my local welding shop. Larry

Question on Super 55 Starter

IP: 71.146.152.176 Posted on April 4, 2011 at 10:44:07 AM by Karl

My reliable-starting Super 55 has sat for a couple of months and yesterday I tried to start and got zero response when I turned the key. The battery is fully charged. This tractor had the original paddle-operated starter switch linkage with the main starter switch on the starter, but is now fitted with a solenoid switch instead. I tried bypassing the solenoid by touching the main cable from the non-ground side of the battery to the starter lug, and got sparks but no action. Have I isolated the problem to the starter? (no, the engine is not stuck!). Please advise--and if so, who rebuilds these starters nowadays?.

Re(1): Question on Super 55 Starter

IP: 69.72.27.17 Posted on April 4, 2011 at 05:13:26 PM by Larry from MD

Yes it is most likly the starter, but you could try and see if the starter is hung up.Put the tractor in high gear and wiggle back and forth, see if it frees up.

Re(2): Question on Super 55 Starter

IP: 75.105.50.97 Posted on April 7, 2011 at 06:57:56 AM by Larry Harsin

I would remove the starter from the tractor and see if I could get the starter to run (put it on the bench and hook a battery to it). If you can't make the starter work and if you can't get it fixed locally, check with Valu-Bilt for a rebuilt starter. Sorry to be so slow in answering, we have been gone for a few days. Larry

70 Oil Change

IP: 173.31.68.252 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 07:51:20 PM by Mac

I changed the transmission and rear end oil in my 1947 Oliver 70 due to contamination. I've read the shop manual as well as the operators manual on the tractor and I assume you refill both the rear end and the front casing (transmission) from the common fill port up forward by the PTO lever. My question is, how does the oil get to the rear end? It appears that it cannot flow back into the rear end area. The manual talks about how the rear end pumps oil forward into the transmission. I'm confused on this. Bottom line is, what is the proper way to refill the rear end and transmission. Thanks Larry!

Re(1): 70 Oil Change

IP: 75.104.169.63 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 08:27:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Put the oil in the front, like the book says. It will get back there. Larry

plow??

IP: 173.2.82.252 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 03:51:11 PM by chris mcglauflin

I recently acquired an Oliver model 360 mounted plow with a weird spring reset. I am having trouble locating the longer rear landslide and the cast shoe that mounts to it, along with any literature. If you could shed some light on this mystery that would be great!!! thanks

Re(1): plow??

IP: 75.104.169.63 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 08:26:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with your AGCO dealer. He should be able to order them. Otherwise, check with Valu-Bilt for parts. 888-828-3276 Larry

1650 Oliver

IP: 174.39.244.240 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 07:11:30 AM by Brad

I pulled the engine to remove and replace the drive coupler. The splines on the transmission input shaft are nearly gone. How difficult is it to replace the shaft? Also is there a special tool to remove the front sprocket nut from the hydra-power drive? Do I need to replace any seals or o-rings when I replace the front sprocket?

Re(1): 1650 Oliver

IP: 75.104.169.63 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 08:22:23 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to remove the hydraulic unit from the tractor to get at that shaft. The shaft is removed by removing the nut on the back of the shaft and pushing the shaft forward. When you are doing this, make sure your transmission lube pump is working properly. You may want to replace the front input seal on the input shaft. There is a special spanner wrench to remove that nut from the sprocket on the hydra-power, but I just use a punch and a hammer. On the hydra power, there is a seal and an O ring you will probably want to replace. Larry

2-155 muffler

IP: 67.221.204.245 Posted on April 2, 2011 at 07:45:39 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry. I was applying NH3 today and the muffler fell off of my 2-155. Would it hurt to put a straight pipe on it or do they need the back pressure from the muffler? Thanks.

Re(1): 2-155 muffler

IP: 75.104.169.63 Posted on April 2, 2011 at 09:22:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. It probably wouldn't hurt it, but I don't think I would do it. It is better for the motor to have one on it. It was designed to have one on it. Larry Re(2): 2-155 muffler

IP: 69.72.27.116 Posted on April 3, 2011 at 08:08:05 AM by Larry from MD

The turbo puts all the back preasure on that engine. It also cuts the noise so i would go with no muffler.My 2-105 has been that way for 30 years.

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