1650 tranny fluid

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on September 4, 2003 at 10:32:44 PM by Alan Bredbury

The Previous owner put dextron II or III in the transmission of my 1650. Is this ok? or should I drain it and fill it with the correct fluid, umm what is the correct fluid? Thanks.

Re(1): 1650 tranny fluid

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 04:40:01 AM by Bubba

Dexron/Mercon is the correct replacement for the old and no longer available type "A".

Re(2): 1650 tranny fluid

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 07:14:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The transmission and differential on a 1650 calls for 80-90 Gear Oil. I would reccommend changing it. The Reversa-Torque ahead of the transmission, calls for the Dexron/Mercon or Automatic Transmission Fluid. Larry

Re(3): 1650 tranny fluid

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 08:54:32 AM by Alan Bredbury

I am sure I will be changing the differential fluid when I replace the axle tube. :-) Thanks, this board is great.

Re(4): 1650 tranny fluid

IP: 206.105.8.170 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 10:31:46 AM by Bubba

Whoa there! When you said the previous owner put dexron in tranny did you mean the Hydraul-Shift or the Transmission/final drive?. If he really has dexron in the transmission/final drive, you may have big problems. That's a light hydraulic oil and won't even come close to dealing with the loads in the T/FD. If you have strange noises or leaks from the T/FD the wrong oil could certainly cause them. The transmission/final drive and PTO all share a common supply and like Larry said, that's 80W-90 gear oil.

Re(5): 1650 tranny fluid

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 10:06:41 PM by Alan Bredbury

Thanks for your concern. He put it into the hydraul-shift. I did not know the name for the "atuomatic transmission" in the tractor when I asked my question originally. The final drive has 80-90 in it and is not leaking so much since I welded up the crack in the axle tube. I will change the fluid when I put on the new axle tube that Larry found for me. I don't trust the weld for heavy use.

1650 hydraulic pressure

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on September 4, 2003 at 10:15:43 PM by Alan Bredbury

Can you tell me what the correct hydraulic pressure is for the 1650 and how I can check it. The backhoe attachment seems to be attached to the pump in the front of the engine. Does the system remain under pressure any time the tractor is running? What regulates the pressure? Thanks

Re(1): 1650 hydraulic pressure

IP: 206.105.8.180 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 04:42:40 AM by Bubba

You'll need the service manual to diagnose and fix hydraulic system problems.

Re(2): 1650 hydraulic pressure

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 07:04:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what the pressure needs to be on that backhoe. You do need an Operator's Manual & Service Manual. Larry

Re(3): 1650 hydraulic pressure

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 07:09:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I didn't answer the rest of your question. I don't think the system is under pressure all the time that the tractor is running. I think it is an open center system. The pressure is regulated by a valve on the inlet of your bank of valves for the backhoe. Larry

Re(4): 1650 hydraulic pressure

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 08:05:18 AM by Alan Bredbury

Ok, I have the manuals on order but I do not have them yet. Everything works on the tractor but I cannot help myself, I need to have things right. I am a Tool & Die maker turned Engineer turned computer programmer. After I die I will be worrying about how the casket was made and if it is perfect.

s77 3 pt

IP: 209.179.52.27 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 11:02:42 PM by Greg

Larry, I would like to add a 3pt hitch to my s77rc diesel. would a 880 fit? I may have access to one...dont know the condition of it yet. Without major modifications what other models might be fitted to this tractor? thanks.

Re(1): s77 3 pt

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 07:02:07 AM by Larry Harsin

It might fit if it is just the 3 pt. hitch from an 880. If it is a "power traction hitch", it won't fit. Valu-Bilt has a 3 pt. for S77. 888-828-3276. Larry

oliver 550 gas

IP: 65.217.41.196 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 06:50:34 PM by Marc Blue

Hello Mr.Harsin.I have purchased a oliver 550 4cyl gas tractor and was told it was a 1956.After some research im told they didnt make the 550 until 1958. The serial # plate is missing and i would like to restore it for shows. Is their any other way to tell what year it is so i can get parts.I also need all shop manuals and info on the 550 i can get. Thanks Marc Blue.

Re(1): oliver 550 gas

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 10:27:53 PM by Larry Harsin

They built the 550 from the fall of 1958 through 1975. The S55 has a grill more like a 77 while the 550 has a grill more like a 770. The radiator shell has the raised spot where the plastic emblem mounts on a 550. It doesn't have this on a S55. The 550 had the 2 cluster gauges in the dash, where the S55 used manual gauges. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual from the Museum at Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): oliver 550 gas

IP: 65.217.39.200 Posted on September 4, 2003 at 08:49:19 PM by Marc Blue

Hello again Mr.Harsin. Thank you for the info and the quick responce.I have looked at the grill and it is like the 770 but the gauges are oliver and i think only one is factory placed.The one cable operated rpm and the other smaller is alternater.We found a # stamped on the right side sitting on seat down under hood under left of battery #5671847 then a circle with a star in it and a 2. I will try to send photos to your site if ok with you. Thanks again Marc Blue.

Re(3): oliver 550 gas

IP: 67.2.248.10 Posted on September 5, 2003 at 06:58:15 AM by Larry Harsin

That sounds like that number is on the clutch housing. If so, I believe it is a casting number. The 550 had gauges clustered together (warning lights for the oil and generator, and gauges for the fuel and temp in one cluster) The S55 had individual gauges. You may email some pictures if you like. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

1955-4wd

IP: 207.68.99.48 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 06:48:41 PM by Dan

Has vibration under your feet at high speed. Also has vibration when idling in neutral,vibes change when hydro is shifted. Start up in neutral with clutch down,trans still in neutral,let clutch out and tractor moves ahead slightly.Trans doesn't shift into neutral easily,shifts easiest when hydro is in low.

Re(1): 1955-4wd

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 10:20:33 PM by Larry Harsin

It could have some alignment problems between the 2 sprockets. See if there is a bolt going through the frame and up against a plate that is against the bottom of the hydraul. The hydrauls tend to sag down and if you raise them up with this bolt against this plate, sometimes this makes them run smoother. Larry

RPM Loss

IP: 65.117.137.33 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 04:14:23 PM by RockinB

How much rpm loss is there when under a load before the govenor kicks in,if any? Tractor in question a 1550 gas.

Re(1): RPM Loss

IP: 206.105.8.114 Posted on September 4, 2003 at 11:11:14 AM by Bubba

The governor is always trying to maintain the speed set by the hand throttle. When you suddenly load the engine, the governor kicks the carb throttle hard to attempt to keep the engine speed up. Depending a lots of different things, you may experience a drop of many hundreds of rpms for a very brief time until the engine rpm comes back up. This is perfectly normal.

Re(1): RPM Loss

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 10:15:31 PM by Larry Harsin

Not over 50. Larry

1650 3pt problem.

IP: 63.228.48.140 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 03:14:43 PM by SForman

I have a 1650 that I had an Allied loader attached to last June. I have not needed to use the 3pt since that time. I recently tried to attach to my Brush-Hog and found that my 3pt no longer works. I called the dealer that installed the loader and he told me that the only thing they changed on my hydraulic system was to convert the internal loop to an external loop and should not have affected the operation of my 3pt in any way. Am I being fed a line here or is there something else that could be going on. It just seems like a heck of a coincidence to me. Thanks for your input. This site is great!

Re(1): 1650 3pt problem.

IP: 67.2.248.31 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 10:14:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Check the fine threaded bolt by your right heel and make sure it is turned in all the way. They may have hooked it up so that oil bypasses the servo-valve. (Turning that bolt out would let the oil bypass the servo-valve.) If this isn't it, you will have to go back to your dealer. Larry

control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on September 2, 2003 at 09:21:35 AM by Alan Bredbury

I need to rebuild the valves for an oliver backhoe attachment. Are there rebuild kits available or am I just as well off going to the local hardware store and buying the needed o rings? Do I need to take the backhoe attachment off to get the valve assembly off? The backhoe is on a 1964 Oliver 1650 and has an oliver sticker on it. I do not know where to look for an identification sticker or tag. Thanks.... I have had a chance to do some digging and loader work with the machine, great machine lots of power, great for loader work with the hydraulic tranny.

Re(1): control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 12.94.163.154 Posted on September 2, 2003 at 12:59:56 AM by Mike B

I don't want to jump ahead on Larry's advice but I have rebuilt the valves on an Oliver backhoe from 1959 with good success. I doubt that you'll find a specific rebuild kit but there is nothing special inside, just a bunch of o-rings as you suspect. Buna-N 90 durometer (the most common) are fine for the job. You may not need to remove the valve assembly to get the spools out but it sure helps to work on a nice clean bench. Make sure that you work on one at a time and return the spools to their respective bores as final assembly machining makes them non-interchangable. Be sure to look for scoring marks or broken springs. Use engine assembly lube (the white stuff in a tube) for reassembly as it will melt to liquid once the system is up at temperature. Be sure to put the boom in a safe position that won't collapse and kill you when you loosen the hoses, and make a map of where each hose goes on the valve block. Pressure wash the works before starting to do anything and be prepared to get oily! The spools should stroke smoothly and self center. Adjust any linkage so that the levers all line up on the center neutral position. Once complete, make sure that the pump has a head of oil above it, start the engine and stroke each lever through its range gently. The entrained air will self purge. Good luck.

Re(2): control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 67.2.248.121 Posted on September 2, 2003 at 08:36:32 PM by Larry Harsin

I can't think of anything more to say. Mike has said it all. Larry

Re(3): control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on September 2, 2003 at 10:20:30 PM by Alan Bredbury

Only one question he did not answer, I think. Do I have to remove the backhoe attachment to remove the valve assembly? I still do not have my manuals yet. It looks to me like I can access them for removal from under the tractor with the attachment on. Thanks.

Re(4): control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 67.2.242.126 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 07:10:55 AM by Larry Harsin

If you are going to remove the whole valve assembly, you may have to take the backhoe off. If you do them one at a time, you may not have to remove the backhoe. To take it all out, you will have about 20 hoses to keep track of as to where they all will have to be returned, plus you will run the risk of getting dirt in them. That is why Mike was saying to label everything and to work on a clean bench etc. I would do them one at a time. Larry

Re(5): control valves for oliver backhoe attachment

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 08:47:15 AM by Alan Bredbury

Got it, thanks.

77RC/Super 77

IP: 65.150.84.94 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 06:11:33 PM by Larry Nichols

Got a new toy last week, a '53 77RC that had been in a previous life a deisel, now a gas. Several things looked a little out of place though and a little further investigating at home revealed a Super 77 motor (going by block castings), and Super 77/770 hydraulics. Can these hydros be fitted to operated with "wet lines". Other than this the old gal has been barn kept her entire life and has some of the straightest sheet metal I've came across and power is definately not a problem. Just seems to need a touch of paint and maybe seals at the brakes. Thanks Larry Nichols

Re(1): 77RC/Super 77

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:51:48 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't quite understand what you are asking. Wet lines???? It was common practice to put 770 hydraulic units in 77 tractors. The larger engine should work out well. Sounds like you have a good buy. Larry

Re(2): 77RC/Super 77

IP: 65.142.254.117 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 02:11:31 AM by Larry Nichols

Sorry about that, must be one of those regional things. "Wet lines" are simply hydraulic lines terminated with quick disconnects at the back of the tractor to simplify connecting hydraulic operated equipment, such as a bush hog with hyraulic lift. Thanks Larry

Re(3): 77RC/Super 77

IP: 67.2.242.126 Posted on September 3, 2003 at 06:53:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Those hydros can be fitted with hydraulic hoses with couplers ("wet lines"). Larry

Grease on a throw-out bearing on an Oliver 70

IP: 160.36.200.254 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 03:42:32 PM by David C. Baker

Is there any easy way of rigging something to grease the throw-out bearing on an Oliver 70 (1948 std. model).

Re(1): Grease on a throw-out bearing on an Oliver 70 IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:47:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not aware of anything. It is not supposed to be greased. If you are having trouble with it, it probably needs to be replaced. Larry

770 Hp.-ci.

IP: 208.44.226.79 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 10:25:05 AM by s miller

Dear Larry, Can you tell me the stock horsepower,and cubic inch of a 59 770? Thanks S.MILLER

Re(1): 770 Hp.-ci.

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:45:41 PM by Larry Harsin

It is 50 HP and 216 cubic inch. Larry

550 engine

IP: 67.31.1.93 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 08:40:35 AM by Tom Kupper

What make is the gas engine in the late 50's 550?. I'm in need of a manifold and wonder if any other Oliver models may have the same engine. Thanks, Tom

Re(1): 550 engine

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:43:50 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a Waukesha engine. No other Oliver manifold will fit it. For a manifold, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Wall Lake Salvage 800-522-1909. Larry

310 Waukesha

IP: 216.106.56.236 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 11:49:00 PM by Harlan Greeves

I have 1850 gas block and a 1950 T with a cracked block, can I replace the diesel block with the gas block? If I can do this what modifcations would I have to do? Thanks

Re(1): 310 Waukesha

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:15:43 AM by Larry Harsin

It's possible, but you'll have to get an oil cooler that fits the base for the oil filter on the right side. Everything else will work. Larry

Re(2): 310 Waukesha

IP: 172.157.219.243 Posted on September 4, 2003 at 11:22:10 PM by douglas wenig

no this block will not work because the coolant passages in the back of the block and the dowl pin location are different than the 1950-T block the only way to use that block would be to use a 1750/1755 diesel head the 1950-T/1955 block is the only one to use that particular coolant passage and dowl pin placement

sevice manual

IP: 216.166.196.52 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 04:13:00 PM by Thomas Bohm

I have been looking for asevice manual for a 500 gas Oliver. I would like to know where i can buy one...

Re(1): sevice manual

IP: 206.105.8.196 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 06:28:07 PM by Bubba

http://www.ytmag.com/manuals.htm

Re(2): sevice manual

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 08:38:34 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a Service Manual from the museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net They have Operator's Manuals and Service Manuals for everything Oliver made. Larry

550 PTO Clutch Inspection

IP: 63.175.91.83 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 11:18:28 AM by ShepFL

Currently replacing transmission clutch on my 550 Dsl. Seeking inspection procedure for the PTO clutches while rig is torn down. No problems with PTO at this time but trying to avoid future problems. Also any other items I should inspect while split. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 550 PTO Clutch Inspection

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 08:36:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Check to see that the oil seals aren't leaking grease into the PTO clutch. Check the adjustment and operation of the clutch while it is apart. Check the grease tube that takes grease to the throw-out bearing. Larry

3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 148.78.243.121 Posted on August 30, 2003 at 12:58:27 AM by Cwolfe

Larry, I would like to use a post hole digger with my 1650 three point hitch. I have read on other sights about making a different top link site to fasten to the plate and the two holes on each side of 3 point. I did this to a 770 ( with a slightly different 3 point hitch) but I was not pleased with the outcome as it was not the right geometry and the post hole auger would not raise high enough ( just barely cleared ground on the level). My question is what is the best way to fashion a top link for a post hole digger on a 1650? In particular, what should be the relation to the round PTO gearbox cover? Do you happen to have any that are all ready to bolt in? Thanks for all your help. Your web page is definitely the most informative Oliver page I have found. Thanks for you efforts. Cwolfe New Independence, MN

Re(1): 3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 206.105.8.38 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 06:08:26 AM by Bubba

Don't waste your time. Buy a hydraulic auger that clamps to your loader bucket. That's how most folks do it here. You get 5'-6' per stroke and can drill holes faster than you can imagine. You can also see what you're doing.

Re(2): 3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 148.78.243.121 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 12:48:46 AM by Cwolfe

I already have the post hole digger! Thanks for the idea though.

Re(3): 3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 08:33:24 PM by Larry Harsin

It's sort of a "bummer" putting a post hole digger on a 3 pt. on a 1650. I'd suggest taking it to your welding shop and having something fabricated. I havn't worked with one of these to be able to advise you. Larry

Re(4): 3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 66.133.189.81 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 10:08:21 PM by k medchill

IWAS IN THE SAME SPOT YOU ARE IN. WHAT I DID WAS CUT OF THE END OF THE POST HOLE DIGGER THAT HOOKS TO THE TOP LINK AND WELD A PIECE BACK ON SO IT WILL CONNECT TO THE PART OF THE TOP LINK THAT LOOKS LIKE A HORSE SHUE TAKE THE THE PIECE THAT HAS THE ADJUSTMENT ON IT OFF. IT WILL WORK.

Re(5): 3-point, post hole digger, 1650

IP: 65.117.137.48 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 10:36:45 AM by R.B. Bozay

I sent you an email regarding your problem with post hole digger.

oliver 88 carb specs.

IP: 66.152.128.206 Posted on August 29, 2003 at 07:53:11 PM by 77

could you please tell me where the high speed jet is on a 88 carb? thanks.

Re(1): oliver 88 carb specs.

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 08:29:17 PM by Larry Harsin

It's a little "L" shaped handle on the bottom of the carb. Larry

Oliver 1650 axle tube

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:37:16 PM by Alan Bredbury

I began work on my new tractor tonight by addressing a rather signifigant oil leak. I was disapointed to find that the leak is comming from a cracked axle tube, at least that is what it would be called in a car. Can this be welded? On the tractor or off? If not does anyone have one for sale? How big of a job is it to change one in hours? Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1650 axle tube

IP: 67.2.249.122 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 08:37:16 PM by Larry Harsin

I doubt if welding would work. I have some. Email me the part number (cobalt@rconnect.com) and I will check out to see if I have the correct one. It will take you at least a day to change it. The hyddraulic will have to be removed from the rear main frame so that you will have access to do it. You will need a Shop Manual also. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 axle tube

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 10:51:48 PM by Alan Bredbury

Shop manuals are ordered. What do you mean The hydraulic will have to be removed? the backhoe attachment? That could be handy as I need to rebuild all the valves anyway. How expensive are rebuild kits for the valves? I will look for the part number, it's tough to find anything on this tractor cause I think they dipped it in paint about three times.

Re(2): Oliver 1650 axle tube

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 10:36:32 PM by Alan Bredbury

Shop manuals are ordered. What do you mean The hydraulic will have to be removed? the backhoe attachment? That could be handy as I need to rebuild all the valves anyway. How expensive are rebuild kits for the valves? I will look for the part number, it's tough to find anything on this tractor cause I think they dipped it in paint about three times.

Re(3): Oliver 1650 axle tube

IP: 67.2.249.143 Posted on August 31, 2003 at 08:27:09 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm talking about the cover over the bull gears. Your tractor probably doesn't have the hydraulic I'm talking about because of the backhoe. Talk to Tom at O'Brien Co Impl about the rebuild kits and costs. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver 1650 brakes

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 02:11:04 PM by alan bredbury

My 1650 was delivered today. The brakes bsaically do nothing. How are they adjusted please. Thanks

Re(1): Oliver 1650 brakes

IP: 206.105.8.184 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 03:46:02 PM by Bubba

It may not be an adjustment problem. If the T/FD is overfilled, the axle seals will leak gear oil all over the discs. Check for gear oil leaks and the fluid level first.

Re(2): Oliver 1650 brakes

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:32:54 PM by Alan Bredbury

The fact that the pedal goes all the way to the floor infers to me that some adjustment is required.

Re(3): Oliver 1650 brakes

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:40:39 PM by Alan Bredbury

Thanks for the suggestion though, lube levels or leakage may be a problem as well. I will check that once I get the pedal up a bit. I have manuals on order but the will not be here soon enough for the immediate work.

Re(4): Oliver 1650 brakes

IP: 67.2.249.122 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 08:31:26 PM by Larry Harsin

Try tightening the adjuster up. If that doesn't do it, then take the cover off and have a look. The friction discs may need to be replaced. Larry

1650 recommended plow

IP: 209.240.231.145 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 01:16:20 AM by Cwolfe

What size plow should I be looking for to use with my 1650 in Northern Minnesota?

Re(1): 1650 recommended plow

IP: 206.105.8.225 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 06:56:49 AM by Bubba

Mine pulls a 3/16 all day in heavy red clay.

Re(2): 1650 recommended plow

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:05:18 AM by Larry Harsin

In Northern MN, I would reccomend 4 - 14's or 4 16's semi-mounted. Otherwise, a 3/16 pull-type. Larry

Re(3): 1650 recommended plow

IP: 148.78.243.122 Posted on August 29, 2003 at 04:00:56 PM by cwolfe

Thanks Larry! Great web page! Any particular make of semi-mounted that you would recommend?

Re(4): 1650 recommended plow

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:18:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Whatever is available at the right price. Larry

1550 hydraulic problems

IP: 204.184.28.219 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 00:08:28 AM by Bobby

I have a 1550 we purchased new and have used for a loader tractor for years. The hydraulic oil is getting hot and I am not sure why. If the 3pt hitch is raised all the way up it appears to be bypassing, but if the lever is moved forward slightly it seems to stop. I have changed the filter and there was not much in it we have always used premium hydraulic oil and have recently switched to IH Hytran. I think the seal in the pump is leaking because it puts hydraulic oil in the rearend. I am suspicious of a bent or broken internal linkage on the 3pt. I would like to have some idea what I am looking for when I pull the top off of the hydraulic unit. Also the adjusting screw on the right side of the unit up and behind the seat is leaking. There was an update that added a brass crush washer and a jam nut that has either been installed or was factory I am not sure. The tractor is a 1969 model. Any information would be greatly appreciated since the service manual we have is ok but leaves a bit to be desired in the hydraulic department.

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic problems

IP: 206.105.8.225 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:10:09 AM by Bubba

You have to fix the leak into the T/FD. It might be that the hydraulic fluid is getting low which will heat the oil. It might also be that the pump is worn which will also heat the oil. In any case, hydraulic oil in the T/FD will hurt it eventually. The 3pt. problem might be caused by one of the above items. Does the loader work OK? Replace the brass washer and jam nut. Be sure it's tight. It won't leak. Did all this happen right after the switch to Hytran?

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic problems

IP: 67.2.242.93 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 07:02:39 AM by Larry Harsin

The 3 pt. coming to the top and not shutting off, is causing the heating. There is turnbuckle adjustment at the bottom rear of the 3 pt. lever. There should be at least an inch and a half of free travel at the top of the 3 pt. hitch travel. I agree that you may have a pump seal leaking oil into the rear end. I would strongly consider replacing the pump, because if they get worn enough, they will leak even with a new seal. This could also be contributing to the over heating problem because it isn't working as it should. Larry

Oliver Super 55

IP: 68.117.141.154 Posted on August 27, 2003 at 07:52:17 PM by Kevin Hagen

I am restoring a 1955 model Super 55. I have not yet seen it run. The gearshift seems to loose the linkage. I replaced the springs which hold the gearshift lever (one was missing), but it still did the same thing. Any suggestions?

Re(1): Oliver Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.184 Posted on August 27, 2003 at 10:19:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Look it over more closely, looking for wear points. Make sure that the knobs that fit in the casting havn't broken loose. That piece may have broken loose and need to be rewelded. Larry

770 front ends

IP: 12.89.0.232 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 07:56:08 PM by John

Larry, whats the weight difference between the narrow and wide front ends on a 770-pressed steel rims... Thanks in advance...John.

Re(1): 770 front ends

IP: 67.2.248.126 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 10:37:38 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm guessing that the wide front would weigh about 250 lbs more than the narrow front. Maybe not quite that much. Larry

clutch chatter

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 03:53:42 PM by Mike F

I get some chatter when my pedal is pushed in hard, doesn't do it if not pushed to its full travel, shifts good, and doesn't seem to slip. any ideas? this is on my super 88

Re(1): clutch chatter

IP: 67.2.248.66 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 10:01:16 PM by Larry Harsin

What it is, is the lever that is pushing the throw out bearing is actually striking the pressure plate. If you put some more free travel in your clutch pedal, it will stop that. Then, if you have to do a clutch job on your tractor, adjust the fingers on the pressure plate out (or back) a little more. That will eliminate that problem also. Larry

Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 01:16:15 PM by Alan Bredbury

When my tractor is delivered I need to drive it 1 mile to my house. Someone broke or stripped all the lug bolts holding the rear wheel on. There are several regular hex head bolts and nuts holding the wheel on, they are not even grade 5. I am going to put grade 8 bolts in to get it home. I notice there is an angle in the hole and the bolts that are in the hub are loose because the corners of the hex heads were bearing on the angle on the wheel. Do you have dimensions including angle on the correct stud. I am planning to make some washers with the correct angle and diameters on a lathe so I can use standard grade 8 Hex bolts with nuts. Finally can you tell me the diameter and thread of the lug bolts? I can just go measure the tractor myself but it is a 30 mile drive each way. I appreciate anything you can do for me, thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 67.2.248.66 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 09:57:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I think they are 1/2 inch coarse thread. I don't know about the angle you are talking about. The ones on mine come right straight off of the wheel. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 10:20:09 PM by Alan Bredbury

Guess I am driving 60 miles, I will see if I can get one off the other side and see whats up. The Previous owner (PO) broke, lost or stripped all of them on one side. Thanks for your input.

Re(3): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 208.10.124.147 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 11:18:09 AM by Larry from MD

If you have pressed steel wheel centers then you have 5/8 cource thread bolts with a taper on the head like the front wheel bolts.Thease bolts can be a nightmare to find,no other company seems to use the cource threads.A lot of the oliver or white dealers don't stock them either.The bolt head is 7/8 maybe,but a larger head works better if you can find them.I replaced my wheel centers with cast iron ones and am much happyer.They don't flex or bend or have all the bolt trouble.

Re(4): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 208.10.124.147 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 11:23:24 AM by Larry from MD

Don't expect new bolts to solve your problems.Most likely you will have to make a plate with holes to weld over your wheel,then you can use regular bolts.

Re(5): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 68.155.7.128 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 09:11:23 PM by George Steadman

Try McMaster and Carr Industrial in Atlanta Ga I have got several hard to find items from them.

Re(6): Oliver 1650 lug bolts

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on August 28, 2003 at 02:14:37 PM by alan bredbury

I got it delivered today. Thanks for the input. I have a full machine shop at my disposal, I can make them if necessary. I have bought stuff in the past from McMaster, good thought. First order of business is going to be brakes. Fluid leaks and fixing up some of the pins and holes in the backhoe attachment.

oliver 66

IP: 64.91.148.157 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 11:43:35 AM by mark

I have a oliver 66 row crop. I want to take some weight off of this old girl so I can pull it. What can I take off? It has a hydraulic pump and a big gear box for the old belt drive unit. Can these be removed? I have to keep the PTO for the class that I want to pull in. Thanks, Mark

Re(1): oliver 66

IP: 67.2.248.66 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 09:53:07 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The hydraulic pump can be removed and a cast iron lid can be put in that place. The belt drive assembly can be removed. You'll have to get a seal retainer for the front of the transmission where the belt pulley comes off. Larry

oliver88

IP: 158.52.254.237 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 11:07:22 AM by Michael Rock

Larry, Was there ever aftermarket addon turbo kit for a oliver 88 diesel. Like a M&W or something. Thanks, Michael

Re(1): oliver88

IP: 67.2.248.66 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 09:48:49 PM by Larry Harsin No. It had to be fabricated on your own. Larry

age and info on model 778

IP: 162.83.151.134 Posted on August 24, 2003 at 02:00:27 PM by daniel rainford

I recently purchased a model 778 oliver backhoe seriel #1481. Can you tell me when it was made and where I might be able to find manuels for it.I am also interested in finding out what other inplements can be run with it. it runs well and is in good shape for an older unit. The last owner kept it well maintained and I would like to keep up the tradition. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Re(1): age and info on model 778

IP: 67.2.249.124 Posted on August 24, 2003 at 08:33:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The 778 is actually the model of the loader that is mounted on your Oliver tractor. It was built for the 770 Oliver and was built by Ware Machine Works in Ware MA. They still have parts for these units. You can get manuals from Mary Ann Townsend at the museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net. There should be a serial number on the backhoe also and the loader was possibly built by Ware also. It would be helpful to Mary Ann to have the model number of the backhoe as well as the loader. These units were built mostly in the early to mid-sixtys. The serial number for the tractor should be on the left side of the dash. If you will send that serial number to us, we can tell you the age of the tractor. Probably the age of the loader and backhoe would be the same. Larry

PTO

IP: 216.74.205.125 Posted on August 24, 2003 at 09:21:08 AM by Roger Mothersbaugh

Larry, Is it possible to change to a wet pto used on a 1650 and put it on a 1600?

Re(1): PTO

IP: 67.2.249.124 Posted on August 24, 2003 at 08:19:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. Larry

Oliver 1600 - 1650?

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 23, 2003 at 08:38:18 PM by Alan Bredbury

Now I am really confused. There is a silver Aluminum plate on the right side of the tractor on the hydraulic tank that says 1600 10D 785 this looks hand stamped. On the instrument pannel support there is a barely readbale tag (painted over) that has near the top 165 7206 and under that 151 807 459 and finally the stickers on the sides of the tractor read Oliver 1650. Based on the lists of serial numbers I see on the web I may not have found my serial number yet. The tag I found was centered on the pannel support. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1600 - 1650?

IP: 67.2.248.32 Posted on August 23, 2003 at 09:48:46 PM by Larry Harsin

We believe that 151 807 is your serial number and your 1650 was built in 1964. The 459 refers to other specs of the tractor, probably the transmission or something. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1600 - 1650?

IP: 68.46.213.27 Posted on August 24, 2003 at 08:19:22 AM by Alan Bredbury

Thank you, I am new to this type of equipment and have several more questions, will post those later. I am getting the tractor delivered next week and probably need to do some work before I can get the manuals.

crawler

IP: 64.57.108.76 Posted on August 22, 2003 at 11:54:57 PM by Mike

My friend has an oliver crawler (deisel) equipped with a 10 foot wide blade and a back hoe. He thinks it is about 1956 vintage. and that's about all he knows, except that the hydraulic pump is now shot. Any info on where to find serial numbers, is this something that oliver made or did another company add this sort of equipment, any info will be greatly appreciated. Mike

Re(1): crawler

IP: 67.2.248.144 Posted on August 23, 2003 at 06:37:06 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number is either on the dash or the fire wall, I would guess. If you could email a picture to us or to Landis, it would help with identification. Is it a Cletrac crawler or an Oliver crawler? Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA is an expert on the crawlers and services them and sells parts. His phone is 717-738-2573. His email is: zoc@att.net. It would help if you knew what your had. Larry

Oliver 1655

IP: 208.253.76.228 Posted on August 22, 2003 at 01:33:05 PM by MG in So./Cent, PA

I am considering the purchase of a 1655 this weekend and have a few questions to ask. The tractor is in excellent physical condition and it has 2500 original engine hours. I've never owned a diesel tractor before but the owner tells me that it could use the injectors cleaned. What kind of expense would this result in or is this a bandage for something bigger to happen down the road. Also, is the 18f and 6r transmission been a reliable component or a liability to these tractors? I plan to do moderate field work such as, plowing, discing, mowing etc. with this tractor. Would this be a wise purchase for a partime farmer if I could get it for a reasonable price? Thanks for any information!!

Re(1): Oliver 1655

IP: 67.2.242.77 Posted on August 22, 2003 at 09:19:13 PM by Larry Harsin

Cleaning the injectors should run in the neighborhood of $250 - $350. I don't it is necessarily a bandage for later problems. If the tractor has had good care, 2500 hrs isn't bad for it. The 18F and 6R is a very good transmission. It would absolutely be a wise purchase at a reasonable price. I have one more suggestion, I would suggest that you follow the engine oil and other lubricants reccomendations in the Operator's Manual. And compare the oil pressure readings when you are operating the tractor with the specifications listed in the Operator's Manual. If the oil pressure readings are lower than what the manual specifies, I would suggest that you have the crankshaft bearings checked in the off season, such as in the winter. The 1655 diesel is an excellent tractor and you will be very happy with it. Larry

Re(1): Oliver 1655

IP: 206.105.8.73 Posted on August 25, 2003 at 04:09:06 PM by Bubba

Larry gave you some great advice. Once you get it home, change all the fluids and filters and then work it hard. You can't hurt it.

Pulling OC3 Engine

IP: 67.26.91.175 Posted on August 21, 2003 at 01:53:47 AM by David Hannaford

I recently bought an old Oliver OC3-42 crawler Serial number 8WH466. I need to pull the engine because water got into one cylinder and the intake valve is seized up in that cylinder; needs a rebore and new valve and guide I think. The current piston is 0.030 oversize. Question 1: Can the cylinder be rebored a further 0.020 to 0.030 (to 0.050 to 0.060 oversize)? Question 2: What is the procedure to pull the engine? Do I separate the engine plus clutch housing from the transmission or can I pull the engine without the clutch assembly? Your help will be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, David

Re(1): Pulling OC3 Engine

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on August 21, 2003 at 06:41:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I am not an authority on Cletracs. Call or email Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA. He is a Cletrac Expert. Email: zoc@att.net or phone: 717-738-2573. If you are nearer to the West Coast, check with Bechthold Tractor Service in Lodi CA. Email: trim-n-prun@softcom.net or phone: 209-368-2031. They are also Cletrac Experts. Larry

Re(1): Pulling OC3 Engine

IP: 67.75.207.33 Posted on August 21, 2003 at 07:58:02 AM by Russell Smith

I'm no expert,but I recently pulled and rebuilt my Hercules engine. The manual didn't help much. I ended up spliting the tractor,and pulling the engine and clutch together. The biggest sticking point was the bolts inside the track guide supports. (50 years of dirt caked over the bolt heads) The good news is, it went back in easier than it came out.

Hydralic Fluid

IP: 12.30.157.49 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:18:27 PM by Randy

Wanted to know what would be the best fluid to run in the hydralic pump in a 1655 Diesel? The book says SAE 10 supplement engine oil or Trans type A. Some have told me to run Sae 20 or 30, what do you recommend to run? Thank you

Re(1): Hydralic Fluid

IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:55:49 PM by Larry Harsin

20 would be fine. Myself, I am using Medium hydraulic oil. Larry

Hydra-Power

IP: 12.30.157.49 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:13:42 PM by Randy

Wanted to know if it is normal for the hydra-power unit to be very hot to the touch after running tractor for 1hour? Fluid and filter have been changed and fluid level is ok. ( Unit will work in direct but only work in hydra power drive if you let clutch out slow.)

Re(1): Hydra-Power

IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:58:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It's hot to the touch after running it. Sounds like you have a bad sprag clutch. If you ever tear the unit down to replace the sprag clutch, there is a regulator valve for the lube circuit that probably needs a new seat. Larry

block casting

IP: 63.157.149.181 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 07:18:06 PM by Larry

I recently was given a 6 - cylinder oliver engine. The gentleman who gave it to me had no idea were it came from. Numbers cast into the carburator side of the block are :185220-E IMB-100-B, & 9298 as well as an upside down K. Thanks in advance for any help.

Re(1): block casting

IP: 67.2.249.60 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 11:01:08 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that is an engine block from a Super 77. Larry

Oliver 1600

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:44:14 AM by Alan Bredbury

Newbie, I have just bought a Oliver 1600 The plate on the tractor says (1600 D10 785). The tractor has an oliver backhoe attachment on it and a front loader. It is a 6 cyl diesel. I want to find out the Weight,Horse power,engine displacement and year produced. If the info above from the tag does not include the serial number I would also like to know where to find the serial number. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 12.30.157.49 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 10:08:28 PM by Randy

Wanted to know what I should run for hydralic fluid in a 1965 Oliver 1655? The book says SAE supplement 1 engine oil or Trans Type A. Some tell me to run 20 or 30 weight hydralic fluid. What do you recommend? Thank you.

Re(1): Oliver 1600

IP: 67.2.248.211 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 01:15:26 PM by Larry Harsin

The serial number on a 1600 is on the lower left side of the instrument panel (by your feet). The number you gave is not a serial number. It weighs 7150 lbs. The HP is 56. The engine displacement is 265 cu. in. Look again for the serial number. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1600

IP: 208.212.118.2 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 03:00:49 PM by Alan Bredbury

Thanks, I will look again for the serial number.

2255 hydraulic fluid

IP: 152.34.243.22 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 07:38:20 AM by Greg Davis

Larry, My owners manual calls for "type 55" hydraulic fluid. Is this still available or what replaced it or can I just use the old R&O hydraulic oil in the 2255? What is best in your opinion? Thanks, Greg Davis

Re(1): 2255 hydraulic fluid

IP: 67.2.248.211 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 01:10:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Use hytran or hygard from John Deere. I think it will meet the same specs. Some places are starting to carry a Universal Automatic Transmission and Hydraulic Fluid that will work. Larry

60 Standard

IP: 67.168.12.147 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 00:25:21 AM by Tim Vaughn

Hello, I recently purchased a 60 standard. It has a bad oil leak at the front crank seal.I am hoping to just replace the seal.Can that be done with the engine in the tractor or will I have to pull it.Also can I find just the seal or will I have to by an engine kit.

Re(1): 60 Standard

IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on August 20, 2003 at 05:46:26 AM by Larry Harsin

To replace the seal, just remove the front timing cover. You do not have to remove the engine. For a seal, check with Korves Bros. at email: korves@htc.net Website: www.korvesoliver.com I don't know if you can buy just the seal alone. Larry

Re(2): 60 Standard

IP: 63.249.24.46 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 02:55:46 PM by TIM VAUGHN

LARRY, THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT. CHECK OUT OR CLUB WEB SITE AT SKYVALLEYANTIQUETRACTOR.COM. TIM

2255 4wd radius

IP: 207.243.169.20 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 07:07:04 PM by Wes Carter

Hello Larry, glad you all are wet. Family is looking at a 4wd 2255 with few hours on it. Cat diesel. would that age of 4wd turn too short for a 24' field cultivator?

Re(1): 2255 4wd radius

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 09:20:09 PM by Larry Harsin

A 2255 should work fine with a 24' field cultivator. Yes, we are glad to have the rain, we were really in need. We received 7/10 last night. Larry

1250 Gas

IP: 65.128.88.219 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 05:28:05 PM by John Wade

Is the Fiat engine in these tractors sleeved? Are parts still available? Thanks

Re(1): 1250 Gas

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 09:16:44 PM by Larry Harsin

It is hard to get engine parts for the 1250 gas. I think they are sleeved. Contact Rick at website: www.ricksagriparts.com or Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg TN 423-581-5557. He has parts. Another website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

Oliver HG42

IP: 67.75.207.100 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 08:06:57 AM by Russell Smith

I had my Hercules engine rebuilt along with repaceing the clutch. I need input on clutch freeplay adjustment. It does not engage( or disengage ) as it should untill the petal is nearly all the way forward. The adjustment nut seems to have little, or no effect. Any ideas?

Re(1): Oliver HG42

IP: 67.2.249.31 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 09:12:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman at email: zoc@att.net or phone: 717-738-2573. He is in Ephrata PA. You should have an Operator's Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

CBT

IP: 216.218.80.64 Posted on August 18, 2003 at 09:47:38 PM by $tevee

Larry, I have just got a CBT tractor with a Mercedes diesel engine. I was told that Oliver had something to do with this tractor and I was wondering if that is true. I already have an oliver with a detroit diesel and the two tractors have a few things in common. I would be pleased to hear any infor on these 2 tractors.

Re(1): CBT

IP: 67.2.249.110 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 07:25:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I have no information on CBT tractors and I don't know who to suggest might have. Larry

Re(2): CBT

IP: 208.10.125.81 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 11:26:46 AM by Larry from MD

As I understand it cbt was a south american tractor builder.They built copies of other tractors,but often used whichever engine they could get easy and fit it in.On another website a fellow from there posted pictures of a museum which had several versions of there tractors.One of them looked like a 990 and the description said it had a mercadies engine in it.

1800 Hydra-power

IP: 216.106.56.71 Posted on August 18, 2003 at 09:14:42 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I finally got around to taking the hydra-power back out of my 1800. As I has said in a previous post, this unit was making alot of noise whenever the clutch was engaged. When I drained the fluid it smelled like it was burnt. I took it apart and everything looks real good inside. All the bearings seem good and I took the Clutch pack apart and everything measured up to specs. What else should I check? Thank you.

Re(1): 1800 Hydra-power

IP: 67.2.249.110 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 07:23:51 AM by Larry Harsin

Check the relief valve for the lube circuit. Those had a habit of pounding through the seat. Then not enough oil would get through the oil cooler. To repair this, a new seat can be installed in your old housing. The roller bearings on the out shaft may have been loose causing it to rattle. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Hydra-power

IP: 216.106.56.22 Posted on August 19, 2003 at 09:19:27 PM by Jason Epperson

Larry, I did find that the front bearing on the input shaft makes a little noise and it also turns on the input shaft. So I guess I will at least need one new bearing. Do you have a good used input shaft? I haven't pulled the valves and poppets out of the cover yet. I will hopefully get there tomorrow. Thank you

Re(3): 1800 Hydra-power

IP: 216.106.56.87 Posted on August 26, 2003 at 00:24:09 AM by Jason Epperson

The bearings on the output shaft were making the noise in the unit. When I took the output shaft housing off, you couldn't even turn the shaft. I guess I got too rammy with the impact wrench when I put the new sprocket on the last time and tightened up the shaft too much and caused too much pressure on the bearings. I have some parts on the way from O'Brien implement. I will let you know how it turns out. How do you set up the bearings in the output shaft housing? Thanks, Larry

Re(4): 1800 Hydra-power

IP: 67.2.249.238 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 07:32:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I set them up so that they are not loose and they are not tight. The later style uses shims to do this. The earlier style was controlled only by the tightness of the spanner nut on the back. The later style shaft was manufactured differently so that you tightened up against the shims and then locked the nut after the spanner nut was tightened very tight. Larry

Re(5): 1800 Hydra-power

IP: 216.106.56.4 Posted on September 1, 2003 at 04:46:40 PM by Jason Epperson

Mine has the later style shaft with shims. I am going to put new bearings in the output shaft housing with the shims that I have and go from there. I hope there are enough there to get me by.

550 Tach Drive

IP: 65.117.137.43 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 04:40:35 PM by R.B. Bozay

New tach, new cable,doesn't work.what keeps the gear in tach drive to stay meshed?

Re(1): 550 Tach Drive

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 06:54:43 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to take it apart and see what is going on. It may have a stripped gear or something like that. Larry

Re(2): 550 Tach Drive

IP: 65.117.137.33 Posted on August 17, 2003 at 10:05:47 PM by R.B. bozay

It appears the vertical drive shaft and gear spin freely on top of the oil pump drive gear. Without disassembly I'm curious as to how that shaft connects to the oil pump drive gear.Is the bottom of the shaft notched to fit over the pin that holds the oil pump drive gear.The isometric drawing in my parts book is not that detailed.

Re(3): 550 Tach Drive

IP: 67.2.249.141 Posted on August 18, 2003 at 06:51:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I think so. You have to take it apart and see what is broken. Larry

pto leak

IP: 152.163.253.35 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 01:48:01 PM by Mike F

Larry, after running my super 88 on a good friends dyno, it started to leak grease behind the pto housing , toward the rear end, I understand that the pto holds it's own grease, but what do I need to fix it? do you have the stuff for it? thanks Mike, also, what carbs are guys using for the 283 cid kit for pulling out your way?

Re(1): pto leak

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 06:52:59 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would check on the PTO is the oil level. If it is too full, it is going to leak. Otherwise, the housing will have to be removed from the tractor and a new tin cap and a snap ring will probably be needed. I don't have these. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. It's not unusual for these to leak a little bit. It's not actually sealed by that cap and ring. Larry

super 88 hydraulics

IP: 206.176.217.55 Posted on August 15, 2003 at 01:27:45 PM by greg

Larry, I just purchased a super 88 with all hydraulic loader at auction, the former owner did some heavy lifting with it and thinks he blew out a seal. The right lever runs loader, the left lever, the bucket, when lifting, the right cylinder works alright, the left drags behind, the engine also labors a little when lowering the loader. When extending or dumping the bucket, the loader also raises.Is this something in the hydra-lectric or a seal in the left cylinder?? Thanks!!!

Re(1): super 88 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.55 Posted on August 15, 2003 at 09:44:41 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have a bad seal on the left side. It's normal for the engine to labor a bit when the loader is being lowered. Sometimes the right hand valve will affect the cylinders on the left hand valve, possibly causing the loader to raise when it dumps. I like to plumb into the power beyond port and use a Gresen 2 spool valve for the loader. Larry

Re(2): super 88 hydraulics

IP: 206.176.198.50 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 07:52:52 AM by greg

I'm not sure what you are referring to as the "power beyond port" Greg.

Re(3): super 88 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on August 16, 2003 at 06:49:32 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a certain pressure fitting just ahead of the left hand front port (for the left hand remote cylinder). If you choose to use this, you bring the oil from that point and run it through your remote open center valve. Then you return the oil from the valve to the 3/8 plug on the front of the hydraulic oil filter. Also, this 3/8 plug will need to be used to block the internal passage where you attach your pressure hose on the left front. Larry

1961 660 Hydraulic Fluid?

IP: 12.160.209.3 Posted on August 13, 2003 at 01:41:04 PM by Rich

What should I use?

Re(1): 1961 660 Hydraulic Fluid?

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on August 13, 2003 at 09:07:41 PM by Larry Harsin

Use 20 wt. hydraulic fluid or a medium non-foaming hydraulic fluid. Larry

center cap

IP: 12.30.157.97 Posted on August 11, 2003 at 09:02:48 PM by Randy

Larry, Do you have a center cap for the stering wheel for a 1650? And if not, where would I be able to get one? Thanks again. What a great website.

Re(1): center cap

IP: 67.2.249.38 Posted on August 12, 2003 at 06:40:28 AM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Korves Bros. Website: www.korvesoliver.com Email: korves@htc.net Shop Phone: 618-939-6681. Larry

Cumminis conversions

IP: 199.35.246.44 Posted on August 11, 2003 at 01:13:49 PM by Andy C.

I was wondering how difficult the 5.9L cummins conversion was. Is there many modifications that has to be done? My plan is to put a 5.9 in an 1850 gas tractor. Thanks.

Re(1): Cumminis conversions

IP: 206.105.8.159 Posted on August 11, 2003 at 01:46:32 PM by bubba

Post to http://www.ytmag.com/oliver/wwwboard1.html. Folks there have done many.

Re(2): Cumminis conversions

IP: 67.2.249.38 Posted on August 12, 2003 at 06:46:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Adam Shiflett at email: AShiflett@AgFirst.com. He can answer this better than I can. Larry

shift on the go

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on August 10, 2003 at 08:18:37 PM by Mike F

Can a super 88 be set up to have a shift on the go, and what would you have to get and what would it cost? thanks Larry.

Re(1): shift on the go

IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on August 11, 2003 at 06:52:36 AM by Larry Harsin

It is possible to take a power booster from an 880 and install it in a S88. You will need a 880 bell housing, the bell housing mounting plate, the clutch shaft assembly, transmission input shaft, then all the power booster itself also. I do not have the parts you would need to do this. This could get to be quite an expensive project. Check with Tom at O'Brien for these parts 800-320-6224. Larry

550 dsl pto clutch

IP: 65.171.244.11 Posted on August 10, 2003 at 06:54:45 PM by scotty rankin

The linking broke on the pto clutch assembly on my 550 oliver. I need to know where to find the parts to fix it and if I need to get a whole new assembly?

Re(1): 550 dsl pto clutch

IP: 67.2.249.59 Posted on August 11, 2003 at 06:47:37 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

model oc-3 crawler tractor

IP: 67.1.35.206 Posted on August 9, 2003 at 04:14:24 PM by George Howard

looking for water pump for this cat. can you tell us where to find one or who to contact to have one built. Thank you George

Re(1): model oc-3 crawler tractor

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on August 9, 2003 at 10:33:52 PM by Larry Harsin

Contact Landis Zimmerman. He is the Cletrac Serviceman. Email: zoc@att.net or Phone: 717-738-2573. Larry

Re(1): model oc-3 crawler tractor

IP: 158.104.97.28 Posted on August 12, 2003 at 04:23:32 PM by Polk Crawler

Just had a pump rebuilt by a friend; still have my old pump to sell but it needs a rebuild job, too. Think maybe any reputable farm implement repair shop could do it for you. Am looking for a radiator for my OC3. Good luck

Charging

IP: 205.187.136.85 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 11:52:21 PM by Steve Jacobson

Larry I would like to put and alternator on my Oliver OC-3 do you think that this a good decision and if yes where would I get one and what about the belt system

Re(1): Charging

IP: 67.2.242.54 Posted on August 9, 2003 at 07:07:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I'm not really an authority on OC-3's. I think it would be best if you would contact Landis Zimmerman about this. He has a Cletrac Sales and Service and is an expert on them. Call him at 717-738-2573 or email him at: zoc@att.net. Larry

surging

IP: 205.187.136.85 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 11:46:22 PM by Steve Jacobson

Larry I have a oliver OC-3 I have rebuild the motor installed a new magneto, new carberator, and rebuild all others but the governer. The motor runs fine at idle but the motor surges when Im using it and lifting dirt in the front loader. What should I check next

Re(1): surging

IP: 67.2.242.54 Posted on August 9, 2003 at 07:03:36 AM by Larry Harsin

It should tell you about that adjustment in your Operator's Manual. If your governor parts are not worn, it is probably the linkage adjustment between the governor arm and the carburator and/or the bumper screw adjustment on the governor housing. Also, before you start doing adjustments, make sure the governor linkage is not binding or rubbing. Larry

Standard 88

IP: 206.176.197.65 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 09:40:30 PM by Chris Rudawski

I'm new to the antique tractor arena. Recently I purchased two tractors. A Massey-Harris 30 and an Oliver Standard 88. My family and I started with the 88. I need to rebuild the engine. It's a 6 cyl. gas, where do we go to find the best price and the right parts. We also may need some body parts and paint scheme guidance. Trying to stay as factory as possible, not interested in souping this one up.

Re(1): Standard 88

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 09:58:57 PM by Larry Harsin

There are lots of places to find parts, etc. When you find out what you need and are ready for paint scheme guidance, email us at cobalt@rconnect.com, and we will help you the best we can. We do a lot of referrals on things we do not have. Larry

Re(1): Standard 88

IP: 216.114.96.83 Posted on August 9, 2003 at 11:54:54 AM by Chris

The best place I have found for engine parts is Korves Oliver. I have bought a couple of engine kits from them and they seem to always have the best prices and best quality. Click the link below and it will take you to there website.

1655

IP: 12.37.234.245 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 11:39:48 AM by craig kintz

What is a 1655 like the one on your web page rated at for HP and, will it pull a 5 bottom plow?

Re(1): 1655

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 09:54:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It is rated to have at least 66 HP and most of them had around 75 HP. It will take more than that to pull a 5 bottom plow. You should have about 90 HP to do that. Larry

1800 PTO

IP: 208.203.4.140 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 09:24:34 AM by Curt

When looking at the PTO shaft of my 1800B I can see the bearings around the shaft. Is that bearing easy to replace and where can I get one? Thanks

Re(1): 1800 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.179 Posted on August 8, 2003 at 09:52:11 PM by Larry Harsin

It is easy to replace. You can get one from AGCO. If you don't have a close dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1855 instrument panel

IP: 64.233.79.46 Posted on August 6, 2003 at 10:05:50 PM by Tom Kelley

Larry, I am just about finished with a complete restoration of an 1855. I removed the instrument panel and stripped off the old wood grain trim only to find that the new one, purchased from an AGCO dealer, didn't match my panel. My parts book calls for 30-3019616 and they sold me 30-3111563. Aparently the first number is no longer available. My question is, how can I make this work and do you have a new steering boot for an 1855. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1855 instrument panel

IP: 67.2.248.107 Posted on August 7, 2003 at 05:39:06 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know how you are going to make that work. I havn't parted out an 1855, so I don't have a "used" panel. No, I don't have a steering boot either. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and see if he can help you. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1855 instrument panel

IP: 68.155.8.196 Posted on August 7, 2003 at 12:33:57 AM by George Steadman

Would one off of a 2105 White work in its place. Have one off of a junker.

Oliver 55

IP: 66.227.224.202 Posted on August 5, 2003 at 03:47:25 PM by Shelly Ferrell

We are a CASE IH dealer working on a Oliver 55, cute little gas 4cylinder. Customer bought at auction with a knock. Had another mechanic do an in-frame overhaul, still has knock. Bearings look good but we're only measuring about 10 psi of oil pressure at idle. What is spec on this engine?

Re(1): Oliver 55

IP: 67.2.249.214 Posted on August 5, 2003 at 06:54:35 PM by Larry Harsin

This is probably a Super 55? It has enough oil pressure. I would suspect possibly there is something in the timing gear causing the noise. Larry

Another question in regards to my post below, Super 55 differential

IP: 24.83.180.236 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 06:19:18 PM by Paul Stanley

Larry, I think I have the end play correct now. When I first started my adjustments I believe it was binding to the bevel shaft. I kept adding shims to the right side of the tractor until it was easy to turn and checked for the end play. Seems like you can tell by feel when you are close anyway. Now when I adjust the backlash my bevel gear is marked .008. I have .009 right now. If that is within tolerances I don't want to mess it up. Do I have .001 to play with or do I have to be right on?

Re(1): Another question in regards to my post below, Super 55 differential

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 07:58:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you are close enough. I'd quit while I was ahead. Larry

Re(1): Another question in regards to my post below, Super 55 differential

IP: 24.83.180.236 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 07:19:47 PM by Paul Stanley, correction

I did my four readings two more times and came up with the average for the four spots on the bevel gear to have an average backlash of 8.5 thousands. That sounds even better, but does it have to be spot on?

Re(2): Another question in regards to my post below, Super 55 differential IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 08:00:46 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You are close enough. I bet you worked a whole afternoon to get that done, right? Sounds like you are doing good work. Larry

Re(3): Another question in regards to my post below, Super 55 differential

IP: 24.83.180.236 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 11:24:28 PM by Super 55

You got that right. I guess because I am learning as I go, I am being extra cautious. Well, now that that's done, it's onto brake assembly. I have to paint some parts as I go, so that too may take me a while. Thanks for the help and reassurance.

Super 55 differential, HELP

IP: 24.83.180.236 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 04:24:42 PM by Paul Stanley

Hello Larry, I met you at the Oliver show in Penfield. I was talking to another Super 55 owner and mentioned he should use your webpage and you overheard your name being mentioned and you introducted yourself. Well now I have a question about adjusting the differential. This is my first restoration and I am totally green, (Oliver green too), when it comes to working on differentials. I am trying to figure out the process in the shop manual. I have replace the differential bearings and installed new seals in the caps, except for the O-ring which I will install when I have everything adjusted. It says to start with .062 inch of shims, I am guessing that is on both sides. I have installed the differential assembly and bull pinions. Now when I rotate the differential assembly by grasping the bull pinion and turning, there seems to be a fair bit of movement in the differential pinion where it meshes with the differential gear on the bull pinion. Is this normal?

Re(1): Super 55 differential, HELP IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 07:55:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, that is normal. It will be that way regardless. I think it is set that way. You'll have to adjust it up with shims as outlined in the shop manual. Larry

1600 engine

IP: 216.158.85.72 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 09:02:16 AM by Robert

Will a engine from a 1600 fit in an 88?How much oil pressure should it carry?What would be a fair price for a Wakashaw from a 1600 in seemingly good shape? Thanks in advance. Robert

Re(1): 1600 engine

IP: 67.2.249.193 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 02:06:27 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will. It should carry a little more oil pressure than the 88 but not much more; 20 lbs would be adequate. If it is a good engine and you can buy it for $1000, you have a good buy. Larry

Re(1): 1600 engine

IP: 206.105.8.187 Posted on August 6, 2003 at 06:28:18 AM by Bubba Be very careful. Unless you can hear the engine run you have no way of knowing how much it's worth, if anything.

Oliver 90

IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 09:10:51 PM by Dan Taylor

I am looking for an Oliver 90 to restore for my father. Thanks for any info you can give me.

Re(1): Oliver 90

IP: 67.2.249.178 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 10:15:19 PM by Larry Harsin I don't know where there is an Oliver 90 for sale. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 90

IP: 64.12.96.45 Posted on August 3, 2003 at 09:43:03 AM by Bill

You should consider running a "WANTED" ad in the HART-PARR OLIVER COLLECTOR magazine. Contact Sherry Schaefer at sherry@oliverinformation.com.

super 88 puller

IP: 216.240.77.193 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 08:27:58 AM by Jason Dickerson

My dad and I are going to start pulling a 1956 super 88. One of the requirements is a kill switch. How do we do this. please email me with any info it would be helpful

Re(1): super 88 puller

IP: 67.2.242.118 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 12:43:42 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to break the connection between the ignition switch and the coil. Larry

1650 Oliver

IP: 68.67.84.110 Posted on August 1, 2003 at 06:59:29 PM by Tim

I have a 1650 overall good condition but the hydro power went out. Also the tractor has always run a little hot. A mechanic told me that the shroud is missing from the radiator.I Think the original radiator may have gone bad and was replaced with one without shroud.I'm unsure if I sould fix the tractor or sell it.Any idea's how to replace shroud and did it do damage to engine?

Re(1): 1650 Oliver

IP: 64.12.97.11 Posted on August 1, 2003 at 07:57:18 PM by Jeremy in Ohio

do you have the 283 in it or a 310

Re(2): 1650 Oliver

IP: 206.105.8.56 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 03:55:22 AM by Bubba

1650s never had the 310. It was a 265 gas or a 283 diesel.

Re(3): 1650 Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.101 Posted on August 2, 2003 at 06:03:29 AM by Larry Harsin

I would get a different radiator with a shroud and fix the hydra-power. This is if the rest of the tractor is working o.k. Bubba is correct on the engines used. Larry

Oliver Row Crop

IP: 66.137.78.81 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 11:59:26 AM by Eloise Davis

Looking for parts for Row Crop, serial # on head is: 185220M100. I am in Oklahoma and need a source for parts. Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver Row Crop

IP: 67.2.249.120 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 11:03:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You didn't say a Row Crop What..... We think it is a 770 built in 1967. We have some parts for it. If it is something we don't have, perhaps we can direct you to someone who does have it. Email me what your tractor is and what you need. Email: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Super 88 Vandals

IP: 66.32.60.5 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 09:13:46 AM by Alan Holley

Hello Larry, I'm the guy from South Carolina that purchased a 57 S88 from you back in November of last year. That tractor has really served me well so far. However a couple weeks ago I was working one of my fields into the evening and decided to leave her there until the next morning. Heck, I was way back in the woods and figured it would be ok. Well I didnt make it back to that field for two days and when I did return I discovered that some vandals had messed things up. some wires were ripped loose ,ether tube yanked out, fuel shut off cable broken, and throttle linkage rod removed from pump and bent up under the hood, and a peach was stuffed into the exhaust pipe. Luckily they didnt do too much damage and I got her up and going again within a couple hours. Now to the question part...the throttle linkage rod has a ball and socket type connection under the battery box. This was seperated and when I snapped it back in it didnt seem very secure...I could pop it out pretty easily. Was there a clip of some kind holding that ball in the socket? I have it secured with bailing wire right now and it works fine, but I think I would like to fix this in the near future. Thanks Larry, and I hope you and Sandy are doing well.

Re(1): Super 88 Vandals

IP: 67.2.249.120 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 10:51:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I can send you a ball and socket rod. I'll email you. We are fine. We need rain. Enjoyed the show at Penfield. Larry

1855 PTO

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 01:56:48 PM by Chuck

I have an 1855 with a 540 PTO. Can I just order a 1000 shaft and interchange them by pulling the bolts holding the sheild on and popping it out? I am looking at a different hay mower that takes 1000 rpm pto.

Re(1): 1855 PTO

IP: 206.105.8.94 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 05:34:56 PM by Bubba

You just pull out the snap ring and swap shafts. Be sure to seat the ring when you install.

Re(2): 1855 PTO

IP: 208.10.125.187 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 06:38:29 PM by Larry from MD

You do have to shift the gears while the shaft is out. There is a safty thing in there that wont let you shift unless the shaft is out.

Re(3): 1855 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.252 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 06:27:40 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a little shifter down on the bottom right of the unit. You have to shift it from one speed to the other before you install the 1000 rpm shaft. If you had an Operator's Manual it would tell you how to do this. You can get one from Mary Ann at email: fchs@fiai.net. Larry

Re(4): 1855 PTO

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 12:36:23 AM by Chuck

Thanks everyone for the help. I tried emailing Mary Ann but the message won't go through. I have the Service manual but it doesn't say anything about switching. Is the switch inside the PTO housing or outside? If I order a 1000 shaft, will I also want to get a seal for it? Or can they be interchanged between the two? Thanks again.

Re(5): 1855 PTO

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on August 4, 2003 at 08:09:53 PM by Larry Harsin

The switch is inside the PTO housing. All you'll need to get is the shaft with the bearing. There isn't a seal to deal with. That is all inside the tractor. The email for the Floyd Co. Museum to order the Operator's Manual is: fchs@fiai.net Their phone is: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(6): 1855 PTO IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on August 12, 2003 at 07:41:02 AM by Chuck

Thanks to everyone for their help. I bought a shaft, a bearing, and a set of snap rings to hold the bearing in place on the shaft. I found (in the castingof the pto) a note stating "in for 1000rpm, out for 540 rpm" I borrowed a White 2-85 book and those directions were just what I needed. There is a Shift rail on the lower right side of the pto housing on the outside. I pulled the bolt out of the bottom (vertical) that was acting as a set screw, put it into the horizontal threaded hole, held it in while I rotated the new shaft. I could feel it shift to neutral, then to the 1000 setting. I pulled the bolt back out, put it back in to the set screw position, and bolted the guard back on. I mowed 30 acres of hay with my new center pivot disc mower, and have never been so happy. Thanks Again.

More 2-70 White problems

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 08:06:22 AM by Carl

Larry, We put a relief valve unit off a junked 1650 on the 2-70 White. It seems to have corrected the steering and hyraulic problem. I forgot to mention that originally when I bought the tractor- the 3 pt. arms were down and wouldn't go up. I turned on that bolt down on the bottom right side of the hydraulic housing. The arms did go up then, however now I can't get them to go down. I have tried every setting on that bolt from as far as you can turn it in to almost all the way out and it doesn't seem to make any difference. The control handle for the 3 pt. is not binding at all at seeems to move normally. What is the next thing I should check?

Re(1): More 2-70 White problems

IP: 67.2.248.100 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 01:38:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I think what has happened is the adjustment for lift height was not correct and it caused the unit to keep pumping after the arms were up as high as they could go. This might have had some effect with the over heating of your unit. With that bolt by your heel screwed in snuggly, and with the engine running at 1500 rpm approx, the lift arms should lower when you push the control lever forward. If they will not lower, something may be jammed or possibly something in the servo valve that controls the arms is wrong. Glad to hear you got things so they will operate. When you get the 3 pt. so that it will operate, there is an adjustment below the levers (turnbuckle) to adjust so that you have free travel at the top end of the stroke when the arms are in the raised position. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should get one from Mary Ann at Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): More 2-70 White problems

IP: 208.10.124.108 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 05:15:09 PM by Larry from MD

One friend had to use another tractor loader to push the 3 point down after it was raised too far after a rebuilding.It works ok now.

Re(1): More 2-70 White problems

IP: 205.188.208.76 Posted on August 1, 2003 at 06:29:24 PM by Chas in Tn.

If the relief valve spools are sliding ok, meaning no rough spots and adjustment as Larry said doesn't help. I would go into the top deck and check the servo valve in the center, just had mine off for basically the same problem. What ever you do!! DO NOT force the arms down when engine is off they are in a lock position. I am sure you will find the problem, sometimes it just takes time, and searching.

310 Waukesha and 1655

IP: 24.166.229.129 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 08:10:53 PM by Jeremy in Ohio

Was wondering if there was ever made a counterbalanced crank for the 310 waukesha. It is a 7 main crank. Did the 310 come in the 1655 or 1650's. And last, do you know where I could find either tractor with complete sheet metal, fenders engine, good chassis. Tractor does not have to be running at all. Would like to take on as a restoration project

Re(1): 310 Waukesha and 1655

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 08:41:50 PM by Larry Harsin

There wasn't one that I am aware of. The 310 did not come in the 1655 or the 1650. The 310 came in the 1750 diesel, 1755 diesel, 1850 gas, 1855 gas and diesel, 1950T diesel and 1955 diesel. Check with this guy, who had a 1655 diesel with a broken main bearing cap, 479-369-4320. I don't know his name. This information was from early spring. Larry

Re(2): 310 Waukesha and 1655

IP: 208.10.124.97 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 11:10:33 AM by Larry from MD

The 1650/1655 diesel had the 283ci engine.

Re(3): 310 Waukesha and 1655

IP: 24.166.229.129 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 08:48:45 PM by Jeremy in Ohio

would it be that hard to get a 310 into a 1650

Re(4): 310 Waukesha and 1655

IP: 67.2.248.252 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 06:31:36 AM by Larry Harsin

No, but I don't know why you would want to. The 283 had enough power for the 1650 and it is a longer life engine. Larry

2-70 white hydraulic/steering problem

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 08:02:58 AM by Carl

Larry, The hydraulic oil gets hot and bubbles out the filler hole on my 2-70 White. Also the whole hydraulic housing is hot to the touch. The power steering also does not work very well. The tractor is very hard to steer. I don't know what to start looking for. I don't know if the steering problem is related to the hydraulic problem. Stuck relief valve maybe? Do you have any advice or suggestions?

Re(1): 2-70 white hydraulic/steering problem

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 01:40:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I would unscrew the relief valve and take it out and check it. It may be stuck part way open. Also, look in the hole where you removed the relief valve. There may be a screen in there that is dirty or ruptured. If the screen is damaged, you may need to replace it. Also, is your hydraulic filter o.k.? Has the fluid been changed recently? Also, are you using the correct fluid in this unit? If you aren't certain about the quality of the fluid, I would drain it and install new fluid as per the recommendation in the Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): 2-70 white hydraulic/steering problem

IP: 199.141.125.33 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 02:31:22 PM by Carl

Larry, The filter was changed and we drained the reservoir and used the correct fluid. We filled it to the top mark on the dipstick (about five gallons). I will try your suggestion regarding the relief valve first and see what that does.

Won't start

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 06:52:53 AM by Joe Shaffer

Good Morning Larry My 1969 550 won't start and looking for ideas on what it could be. I have replaced the battery and the starter solenoid and it still won't start. When I bought this tractor I had to replace the starter switch which I bought at Wal-Mart. So now I not sure what to do??? Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Won't start

IP: 67.2.249.175 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 07:24:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I need more details. Do your lights go dim when you try to start it? Does it have spark? Does the starter turn the engine or not? Larry

Re(2): Won't start

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on July 29, 2003 at 09:58:02 AM by Joe Shaffer

Sorry about that Larry.. The lights come on, but thats it. Nothing else happens, I don't know if the lights dim when trying to start it or not... But I can try that tonight.

Re(3): Won't start

IP: 12.106.196.23 Posted on July 30, 2003 at 02:23:43 PM by Joe Shaffer

Larry I just want to check something, my Oliver is a Positive ground?

Re(4): Won't start

IP: 67.2.248.252 Posted on July 31, 2003 at 06:35:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It could be a bad battery or a bad ground connection or a bad connection to the solenoid. It could also be a grounded out starter. Larry

OLIVER 25 OR FORD 611

IP: 64.5.99.220 Posted on July 28, 2003 at 04:46:54 PM by MATTHEW

MY FATHER JUST GAVE ME A 611 FORD COMBINE. I WAS TOLD IT WAS MADE BY OLIVER. ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE HELPFUL. THANKS, MATTHEW

Re(1): OLIVER 25 OR FORD 611

IP: 67.2.248.151 Posted on July 28, 2003 at 08:58:15 PM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 25 combine was the same as a Ford 611. These combines were built by Oliver at Battle Creek MI. They were built between 1959 and 1961. You can get an Operator's Manual and Parts Book for it at the Museum at Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net She may be able to provide you with other information also. Larry

77 black smoke

IP: 67.72.182.220 Posted on July 28, 2003 at 10:47:10 AM by steve

Larry, I have a 49 row crop 77 with a marvel carb # tsx363. The problem is that when it idles for a while then I open the throttle up it blows black smoke. Now lately it seems the engine flutters on acceration and also flutters when put under load. I have already rebuilt the carb with a new kit, adjusted the float to spec and even readjusted the foat to a lower setting. The tractor has new coil, points, condendser, cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs. I can't help but to think the problem is still in the carb. but what could it be as I'm running out of idea's. Your input will be greatly appreiated Thanks Steve. PS all 6 plugs are black and sooty, not wet but a dry black soot.

Re(1): 77 black smoke

IP: 67.2.248.151 Posted on July 28, 2003 at 08:54:11 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your idle circuit is not working. Does the engine respond when it is idling slow and you try to adjust the idle mixture? Does the engine change any or does it keep putting out black smoke? There may be something plugged on that idle circuit on the carb. I'm fighting the same thing on a 66 that has the tsx363 also. Remove the fuel nozzle from the lower bowl assembly and inspect all those holes in that nozzle and make sure there aren't any of the holes plugged. Then take a tip cleaner like you use on an acetylene torch and clean the passages that go down into the nozzle well on the carb. On the top half of the carb, make sure all those passages are open on the idle side. See if this helps. Larry

Oliver 1655 Diesel

IP: 208.22.102.166 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 07:32:59 PM by David Baver

I have an Oliver 1655 Diesel with a blown engine and a resulting hole in the side of the block. Considering the availablity of parts, could this tractor be retro-fitted with a different engine?

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Diesel

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 07:53:23 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. I have an 1800C series gas engine that might work. If you are interested in it, email me or call me. You could put a 1650 gas engine or a 1600 diesel engine or an 880 engine gas or diesel in it. Larry

turbo 77 diesel

IP: 12.87.141.8 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 07:01:34 PM by DAN LONG

looking for or wondering if someone makes a turbo kit for a 77 diesel. thanks dan long

Re(1): turbo 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.190 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 07:49:54 PM by Larry Harsin

No. I know of no one who builds a kit. Larry

Odd thermostat

IP: 69.43.3.46 Posted on July 26, 2003 at 08:15:08 PM by Larry

Would anyone know where you could find a thermostat for a cockshutt 30, it's an odd looking thing with a curved snout looking thing coming out the top and curving back down. Is there a thermostat that can be substituted for that odd looking thing or not? It has a 153 Budda engine I think.

Re(1): Odd thermostat

IP: 67.2.248.11 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 06:28:57 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know about the thermostat. It is a 153 Budda engine. Larry

Re(2): Odd thermostat

IP: 208.10.124.125 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 08:41:06 AM by Larry from MD

There are 3 sources for buda parts.One guy in the midwest has stuff for tractors,the other 2 places have stuff for large marine and industrial engines.One place had a website www.buda.com don't know if it still works.If you look on www.atis.net at there parts or salvage list you should find a place.

88 oliver

IP: 65.73.162.19 Posted on July 26, 2003 at 10:21:17 AM by tom cody

would a 310 waukasha fit in a super 88the mounting pads on the engine look like they will line up but i,m wondering about the clutch

Re(1): 88 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.11 Posted on July 27, 2003 at 06:26:10 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have a problem. You may have to install a smaller flywheel to get it into a S88 frame. I think it is doable, but would take a lot of work. Larry

Re(2): 88 oliver

IP: 68.155.0.251 Posted on July 28, 2003 at 11:27:26 PM by George Steadman

Put one in a 77 much easier to put in an 88 also put one in a 880 out of a 1955 easier than a lot of people think.

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