770d

IP: 216.220.251.59 Posted on September 5, 2004 at 08:44:17 PM by mike

Larry, I have recentley purchased a 1959 770d. the tractor has two hyd cylinders in holders on l&r fenders. What is the purpose of the four wire elect harness at each cyl? harness goes from the pump res. to the cyl. also there is a gear box in back of trans. with a output shaft cupling on the right hand side. what was this used for? i would like to add p/s and a power booster to this tractor. what other model tractors other than a 770 will work if any? do you have these items and if so how much?

Re(1): 770d

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:52:07 AM by Larry Harsin

The 4 electric wire electric harness was so that you could control the depth stop on each cylinder, without getting off of the tractor. I don't understand what you mean about the gear box in back of the trans, except for the PTO which is common on all Oliver tractors. You should get an Operator's Manual for this tractor so that you understand more about it. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net The 880 used the same components as far as the p.s. and the power booster. I do have an add-on p.s. that was built by Char-Lynn, which was the most popular after market p.s. used on Olivers. If you are interested it this, email us at: cobalt@rconnect.com Concerning the Power Booster Drive Assembly, I do have some of the components for sale for them also. Larry

Super 88

IP: 24.14.108.187 Posted on September 5, 2004 at 01:02:24 PM by Dale

Hello, I have a chance to pick up my fathers old super 88. I know that it is missing the front grill and that it needs a new cylinder head (old one was cracked). Are these parts readily available? If so, do you have them and about how much do they cost?

Re(1): Super 88

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:40:41 AM by Larry Harsin

They are available. I don't have a cylinder head. Valu-Bilt has them. A reconditioned one runs in the neighborhood of $600. Phone: 888-828-3276. Grills are available several places. I have some. Email me for info. Larry (cobalt@rconnect.com

Oliver 60

IP: 206.130.64.79 Posted on September 4, 2004 at 11:39:45 PM by Mike Fayter

Hi Larry This is not a question about mechanical or parts but about a 60 that has us puzzled and I am hopeing that you may be able to help.Allthough the serial number says that it was made in 1942 the first layer of paint is Hart-Parr green with orange wheels and it has only a 3 speed transmition. All the books we have say all 60's had 4 or 5 speed transmitions.

Re(1): Oliver 60

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:36:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. That's a new wrinkle for me. Larry

Wheel bolts/nuts

IP: 65.172.9.53 Posted on September 4, 2004 at 09:51:24 PM by Jim

I was wondering if anyone knew where you can get new replacement bolts/nuts for the lugs that attach the rear wheel center to the rim? I can get the bolts at a local hardware store but I cant find the nuts. The nuts take a 1/2 inch diameter course thread bolt and are driven by a 1" wrench or socket. If anybody knows where I can find these, let me know. Thanks

Re(1): Wheel bolts/nuts

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on September 5, 2004 at 01:39:33 PM by Super 55

Try this web page. Don't know where you are located, they may even have a distributor near you. They have found every fastener I have ask them for so far. Just click where it says fastenal below.

Re(2): Wheel bolts/nuts

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:33:24 AM by Larry Harsin

Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 88

IP: 68.67.225.180 Posted on September 4, 2004 at 04:21:47 PM by aubrey

i have a 1951 88 with the 6 cylinder engine..my ? is ,is the engine made by oliver and their design or is this another manufacture design used by oliver,thanks ..Aubrey

Re(1): oliver 88

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:28:35 AM by Larry Harsin

Oliver had a hand in the design of the engine. Oliver did the foundry work to produce the castings. Then they were shipped to Waukesha in WI and Waukesha built the engine. This arrangement for the production of Oliver engines, continued for many years. Larry

Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on September 4, 2004 at 02:13:41 PM by Super 55

Larry, I had an earlier posting about my brakes on my Super 55. I had trouble because the brakes were dragging even when the adjustment was backed right off. Found that if I torqued the cover bolts about 5 ft-pds less it was fine. Just wanted to let you know what worked. I don't like to leave unresolved postings if I can help it. It might help some other Newbie. One thing I have noticed with my tractor, it's an early 1955, ser.# 16-011. There seems to be a few changes to the hydraulics since 23-131. I bought a small casting, a link in the control, and the one I dug out of a parts tractor had an A after the number. Slightly different. I'll have to be more carefull in the future. I'm puttng my brazed one back in. Sure do apprecitate all the Oliver pages on the web. Thanks for going to all the trouble of running this one.

Re(1): Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:25:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Thank you. We enjoy the website also. Larry

Clover White paint

IP: 205.215.210.10 Posted on September 3, 2004 at 11:17:28 AM by Tom

Running into nothing in trying to loacte the Oliver Clover White paint. NAPA stores here are not getting anything. Do you know where I can locate some?

Re(1): Clover White paint

IP: 209.50.4.207 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 01:50:09 AM by bastar

My local NAPA store was able to supply the Clover White paint. They have a book for Ag and Industrial tractors and equipment. I thought that the match was real good. Ask them if they have the book or can get it.

Re(2): Clover White paint

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:22:11 AM by Larry Harsin

In my experience, the best and cheapest place to get Clover White paint is your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

super 99

IP: 209.234.83.46 Posted on September 2, 2004 at 11:44:14 AM by kris

did oliver ever make a super 99 with a gm diesel and a 4 speed transmission?

Re(1): super 99

IP: 67.2.242.37 Posted on September 3, 2004 at 06:52:53 AM by Larry Harsin

There was no Super 99 built with a 4 cylinder. It was built with either a 371 GM (3 cylinder) or a 6 cyl. Waukesha. There was a 99 built with a 4 cylinder gas, and there was a 1950 built with a 4 cylinder GM 453 diesel. Larry

Re(2): super 99

IP: 209.234.83.46 Posted on September 3, 2004 at 12:32:49 PM by kris

how about with a 4 speed transmission?

Re(3): super 99

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on September 6, 2004 at 07:18:47 AM by Larry Harsin

There were no Olivers built with 4 speed transmissions and GM engines. Larry

Oliver 1600 loose steering

IP: 66.82.9.37 Posted on September 2, 2004 at 06:09:19 AM by paul

This is the same person who had the "steering issue" and turned out to be the steering column spline. When all was okay, I found myself over-steering (right or left) to keep it straight, like there was a 1/2 a turn of steering play. Because of this play, the terrain of the ground would influence the direction of travel (equally left or right). I do not believe this was due to the spline. Is there adjustments for this type of play? Archive "posts" suggest it's the steering motor and is a typical problem with the 1600, but they usually mention going to one direction. Thoughts? Re(1): Oliver 1600 loose steering

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on September 2, 2004 at 07:58:01 AM by Larry Harsin

If this tractor has a wide front end, check where the pitman arm for the wide front clamps onto the pitman shaft at the front of the tractor. You may be able to tighten the bolt that clamps the arm to the shaft. If tightening doesn't help that much, perhaps those splines are stripped. Larry

smoking Oliver 770

IP: 64.12.116.14 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 10:23:44 PM by John

Larry, my Oliver 770 sat for two months while I was rebuilding the transmission and differential. Before I started the tractor, I set the valves because they were too noisy ( I set them to IT manual specs). Now the tractor smokes, oil smokes, terrible. Is it possible that a valve seal umbrella came off? Or do I have a stuck or broken oil ring? I did not run a leak down on each cylinder. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS!

Re(1): smoking Oliver 770

IP: 67.2.242.40 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 11:14:45 PM by Larry Harsin

A compression test and a leak down test may be in order here. Larry

Re(2): smoking Oliver 770

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 08:05:48 AM by Larry from MD Have you checked for a stuck valve?

oliver 1465

IP: 69.148.62.66 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 02:13:38 PM by k. thompson

I just bought an Oliver 1465 and haven't had a chance to get manuals on it yet. A couple of the fluids seem to be low and I am not sure what fluid to use. Can you help me? Also what is a good place to get parts? Thanks Ken

Re(1): oliver 1465

IP: 67.2.242.40 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 11:11:57 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have the books for this tractor, so I don't know what fluids it calls for. You can get manuals from the Museum at Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net For parts, check with www.agpartsfirst.com or www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html or check with Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557. Larry

Loosing Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 69.87.135.178 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 01:21:53 AM by Alan Wernette

I have a 1650 that when I use the hydraulics especially the 3-pt hitch I loose hydralic fluid. Must be loosing it into the transmission through the middle gasket? since no sign of leakage on the exterior. Can I lift the hydraulic unit off and easily replace the gaskets? Do I have to remove all the hydraulic fluid and if so how can I do it without a pump? Hydraulics work fine as long as I keep adding fluid.

Re(1): Loosing Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 69.179.5.42 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 06:12:17 AM by Ron

The T/FD won't be working long as hydraulic fluid isn't gear oil. You can check the level on the right side of the tractor's transmission. You'll need the service manual to repair. There's a procedure to pump the hydraulic system using the tractor's pump.

Re(2): Loosing Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:30:20 AM by Larry Harsin

When you take it apart, check the pan in there. It may be cracked. Otherwise, if you find the pan isn't leaking, the pump shaft seal may be leaking to let the fluid into the drive train. To drain the unit, simply plug a hose into the remote outlet and pump the fluid out into your container with the tractor pump. When you are removing the unit from the tractor, be sure to remove the 2 longer 3/8" cap screws in front of the seat in the middle of the unit. The other bolts that secure the unit to the tractor are all around the perimeter of the casting. Larry

Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 66.82.9.92 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:28:47 PM by paul vanbeverhoudt

I just got this tractor, so I don't know it too well. I had totally lost the steering and found no oil (using the dip stick infront of the seat). The local tractor store gave me 5gal of "Tractor Hydraulic Fluid". I filled it up and I still don't have any steering...the steering wheel just freewheels around and around. If I ran it dry, do I need to do anything special to get it steering again (such as priming it)? I'm worried it is something serious...Hope you can help

Re(1): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 69.179.5.42 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 06:08:05 AM by Ron

Any leaks? Does the 3pt work? Do the remotes work? Did you replace the hydraulic filter?

Re(2): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 66.82.9.83 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 06:15:48 AM by Paul

No apparent leaks. 3pt does work. I have a front loader and it does work. The hydraulic filter was NOT changed and who knows when it has been changed last (this is the one behind the battery case). Is the steering hydraulics run from the same as the other hydraulics?

Re(3): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:24:55 AM by Larry Harsin

If your hydraulics seem to work o.k., probably, the regulator spool in the flow divider is stuck or sticking. First of all, speed the engine up to full throtle and move the remote levers back and forth quickly. Sometimes, this will cause the stuck flow divider to become operational. I would reccommend that you change the hydraulic filter. To check the regulator spool on the flow divider, simply unscrew the large cap and see if the spool will move. You may have to remove it and clean it up. Larry

Re(4): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 150.142.239.73 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:59:14 AM by paul

This sounds like a good thing to try, but I don't have a manual for this tractor, and I'm not sure what (or where) the "regulator spool" and "Flow divider" is (sorry for the ignorance). When you say unscrew the large cap, which large cap are you refering to (location)?

Re(5): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 12:45:11 PM by Larry from MD

Your flow divider spring is brokern! Its on the front of the hydrolic houseing between your ankles.Remove the plug and fish out the 2 pieces and replace with new.If you have to drive it turn both flat ends of the spring together and reinstall,it will work untill you get a new spring.

Re(6): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 66.82.9.65 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 05:08:57 PM by paul

I took the "big screw" out and the spring looked okay. I started/stopped the tractor with the screw out and got the center pin which looked okay. I put the shaft and spring back with no luck. Am I going to have to take it totally apart? Side note: I can lift the steering wheel straight up about 6" and when I turn the wheel in the up position, it seemed to grab for a slight instant...does this mean anything?

Re(7): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:01:35 PM by Larry from MD

Well thats completely differant.It is very easy to pull the steering collum out of the steering unit.The wheel will then spin with no resistance at all.The collum will have to be removed at least some to reattch the inner spline.Sometimes you can release the clamp on the outer part and slide it up and slide the inner part back over the spline.You may need to loosen the compression nut on the end.That nut can get too loose too.

Re(8): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 11:15:02 AM by Neal

It sounds like the splines on your steering column are worn off. If you take the column off of the steering motor you should be able to tell. If you pull up slightly on the steering wheel you will get it to work for a little while. There is a groove in the motor shaft where the splines won't be wore.

Re(9): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 66.82.9.62 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 01:05:46 PM by paul

Okay - it looks like it's the spline on the steering column (female) is worn to nothing. The male spline on the steering box seems to be worn, but doable. What are my options for correcting this? (and thanks to everyone helping so far...it's been a learning experience for me)!

Re(10): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 66.82.9.68 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 03:13:55 PM by paul

I wanted to add a picture to show the motor side spline. Which I could probably use if available. Can the motor side spline be replaced???? Where is the best place to get parts for this?????? Also, What's a good manual for the tractor????? Thanks

Re(11): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 67.2.242.104 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 10:04:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He may have a shaft that will clamp on. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net You really need a manual. Larry

Re(12): Oliver 1600 Gas Steering issue - still not working

IP: 66.82.9.68 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 10:50:40 PM by paul

You guys offer a great service here...keep up the good work...thanks for all your help and hopefully this will be all resolved shortly.

2-62 White-Oliver backhoe

IP: 65.111.195.98 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 03:43:34 PM by Gordon & Brenda

First off, Thank you Larry ,and all the readers for your help !!! Second, We need a manual for the back hoe on our White-Oliver 2-62/1550 industral... the back hoe seems to lose power after a few hours of work, when given time to cool off its good for another few hours....think its the hydro pump..so I need a break down of the back hoe not just a user manual, Back hoe is a 1615 Oliver or a 2-62 White . Again thank you !

Re(1): 2-62 White-Oliver backhoe

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:18:10 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get manuals for everything Oliver built from the Museum in Charles City. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Wide Front

IP: 149.174.164.8 Posted on August 29, 2004 at 11:44:12 PM by Chad (IA)

I am looking for a wide front end for my 1655D. The local salvage yard has 2 for sale for $650 each with tricycle trade. Anything I should be aware of when purchasing one of these?

Re(1): Wide Front

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:36:11 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the tie-rod ends aren't bent or loose on the joints. Look for bent arms or the main tube being bent, broken or welded. Larry

Wide Front

IP: 198.74.20.118 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 12:48:09 PM by Chad

The main tube looks good. the tie rods are straight and solid with nice tight joints. Hubs roll smooth and straight. The only minor concern I saw was the weld of the small 2" tube that connects to the main tube looks a little sloppy on the top side of the one, bottom weld looks good and original. When I asked about it he said some were bolted into the main tube and some were welded in. In this case it looked like the owner had reinforced the weld. Thanks for your help.

Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on August 29, 2004 at 05:03:31 PM by Super 55

The early Super 55s had a problem with air mixing with the hydraulic fluid.The remedy was to extend the filler cap with a piece of pipe, I have that, relocate the breather to the top of the cover, am doing that, but I need the bypass tube and return tube for the external hydraulics. They are tubes located inside the reservoir, that keep the fluid below the level of the dydraulic fluid. I am wondering if they are made of copper tube or steel tube? Also, I don't know the overall length of each tube. I know they are made with 3/8 tube. and one has a straight pipe connector and the other has a 90° angle. They have bends in them and I need to know the lengths. I am checking with parts people to see if the kit is available, but haven't heard back yet. If anyone has the dimensions of the tubes I would appreciate it. I may have to fabricate them. I have added a link to a picture of the conversion. When you get to the page, click on the box below the picture and then click on the picture to get a larger view.

Re(1): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:32:59 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry

Re(2): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 11:38:40 PM by Super 55

yeah, I got Tom looking at his salvaged tractors. He wasn't too familiar with the conversion, but it was in his parts book. Larry, have you ever seen it done? I may have to make the tubes myself, but I am wondering how they screwed the pipe thread connectors to the inside of the transmission cover. The only problem with that is that the holes they go into have pipe plugs installed from the outside-in, so the taper of threads would be backwards....I am wondering if I have to retap.

Re(3): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on August 31, 2004 at 08:12:45 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I am not familiar with it. I'll look in my Shop Manual and see if it says anything about this. Larry

Re(4): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on September 1, 2004 at 07:47:16 AM by Larry Harsin

My Shop Manual shows the conversion, but it doesn't give the info that you want. You'll have to see if Tom can get you the info through parts. Larry

Re(5): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on September 2, 2004 at 01:49:16 AM by Super 55

Larry, Tom from O'Brien Co. came through with the part kit and it's on it's way. Tonight I got a reply from Chris Losey on his board and he stumbled across one too, while looking for some other parts. When it rains it pours. Thanks for the help.

Re(6): Super 55, hydraulic field Conversion

IP: 67.2.249.69 Posted on September 2, 2004 at 08:02:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Great! That's one reason we have this web page. Larry & Sandra

super 77 gear lube and hydraulics

IP: 209.166.73.69 Posted on August 28, 2004 at 11:50:59 PM by paul Forster

I just got the old super 77 deisel that was on my family farm and moved it out to washington state after it sat for about 10 years. The hydraulics seem to work ok after replacing all the hoses and draining all the water out. The problem is it seems to drain all the hydraulic oil down in to rear end. Does the rear end and hydraulics use the same oil and fill point? There are at least 2 different drain points that I can see. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): super 77 gear lube and hydraulics

IP: 69.179.5.42 Posted on August 29, 2004 at 06:55:47 AM by Ron

Buy the operator's and service manuals; you'll need them.

Re(2): super 77 gear lube and hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:28:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to take the hydraulic unit apart and inspect the pump. Inspect the bearings for wear and replace the seals. Also, inspect the center plate - be sure it isn't cracked. Change the hydraulic filter and replace the rubber boots on the levers. Use 10 wt. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Use 80 - 90 transmission oil in the transmission and differential. You can get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Locking Differential on 1655 and 1850?

IP: 64.136.27.226 Posted on August 28, 2004 at 02:37:10 AM by Kerry

Larry, Can you advise how to tell if a 1655 and 1850 Oliver has a locking differential and the proceedure for engaging it?

Re(1): Locking Differential on 1655 and 1850?

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 28, 2004 at 11:30:28 PM by Larry from MD

There are none on the rear.

Re(2): Locking Differential on 1655 and 1850?

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:22:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Neither of those tractors were built with a locking differential. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show. Larry

550

IP: 132.170.180.143 Posted on August 27, 2004 at 02:51:39 PM by alan

I have a 1958 oliver 4cly gas would like to know if a waukesha VRD220 diesel 4cly would fit. it lookes much same to me like to know for sure before i buy it

Re(1): 550

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:19:11 AM by Larry Harsin

I havn't had this before, so I don't know. Larry

1550 hydraulic pump

IP: 24.52.134.202 Posted on August 27, 2004 at 01:38:53 AM by Brandon

I have a 1967 1550 that has no steering,no pressure at the outlets, and the three point arms do not move. Everbody that I talked to said the pump is gone.First question:When I pull the housing of is the pump right there and easy to change? Second question: I have been told that it could be a vane pump, how hard and where would I get the parts to rebuild it or is it better to buy anew one and where is a good place to get one?Thanks Brandon

Re(1): 1550 hydraulic pump

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 28, 2004 at 11:28:00 PM by Larry from MD

If the pto still works its most likely the pump.The hydrolic does have a pan on the bottem that will need to be removed(pull the allianment pins).The pump can then be gotten to.I have only seen gear pumps on the 1550's.

Re(2): 1550 hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:16:12 AM by Larry Harsin

I would put in a new pump instead of trying to rebuild the old one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 80-320-6224. It's enough work that you don't want to have to redo it - that is the reason I would get a new pump instead of trying to repair the old one. Larry

1955 Oliver

IP: 12.41.253.176 Posted on August 26, 2004 at 09:05:06 PM by Larry

Trying to find out what kind this tractor I bought is, it is a 1955 oliver it looks like a 9 n ford. Has bucket and backhoe attachment. If anyone knows please let me know.

Re(1): 1955 Oliver

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 28, 2004 at 08:06:38 AM by Larry from MD

Its a super 55 or 550.

Re(2): 1955 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:11:56 AM by Larry Harsin

If it has those attachments, if it is yellow, it could be an Industrial 550. Send us the serial number to certify the year. If it is a 1955 model, it would be a S55. Then again, if it is yellow, an Industrial. Larry

oil vs fluid

IP: 65.248.107.175 Posted on August 26, 2004 at 10:37:33 AM by KIm

IS THERE A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HYDRAULIC OIL AND HYDRAULIC FLUID?

Re(1): oil vs fluid

IP: 69.179.5.42 Posted on August 26, 2004 at 07:14:49 PM by Ron

No.

High Oil Consumption Due to Wrong Oil Viscosity??

IP: 64.136.27.226 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 11:22:14 PM by Bailey

Larry, I have located a 1650 Diesel with loader for sale that appears to be in very good condition, except for one major problem. It is owned by a private individual and is used for brush hogging on a small farm and sees use 2-3 times a week. The owner was very candid and honest in describing the tractor history and condition, but he floored me when he indicated that the tractor was using approximately 2 quarts of engine oil per DAY..! He didn't think it was leaking, but felt the engine was using this much. What concerns me is that he claims he is using 10W 30 multiviscosity Rotella oil instead of a heavier straight weight. What is the proper way to do a leakdown or compression test on this engine to evaluate the ring condition? Could the light oil be a major contributing factor to the unusually high oil consumption? If the rings are stuck, is there a particular chamber cleaner or similar product you might recommend to free the rings in an effort to reduce oil consumption without a rebuild? I have no interest in this tractor if a rebuild is the only likely solution. Your suggestions and input are much appreciated.

Re(1): High Oil Consumption Due to Wrong Oil Viscosity??

IP: 69.179.5.42 Posted on August 26, 2004 at 05:44:45 AM by Ron

I can assure you that if it's really burning 2 quarts a day it has to be rebuilt. More likley it's leaking. A quick look underneath will tell.

Re(2): High Oil Consumption Due to Wrong Oil Viscosity??

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 09:05:25 AM by Larry Harsin

10 - 30 weight oil should be used in that engine only in cold weather. He should be using straight 30 or 15 - 40. The use of heavier oil should keep the consumption in a more acceptable limit. On an engine of that age, the only way to get oil comsumption eliminated, would be to rebuild the engine. Larry

Parts for Oliver 1850

IP: 206.147.21.53 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 05:52:25 PM by Paul

Hi Larry and everone else. I am looking for a few parts to finish off an 1850 had I am fixing up. Do you know of a good parts sorce for a tractor like this? Is there an aftermarket vendors out there? Thanks Paul

Re(1): Parts for Oliver 1850

IP: 216.19.8.208 Posted on August 27, 2004 at 01:48:39 AM by Jim

For New or used Oliver parts try O'brien County Implement, Sheldon, Ia. 1-800-320-6224 Or Korves Oliver, Waterloo, Il. 1-618-939-8772, Or Maibach Tractor, Creston, Ohio 1-800-808-9934 You should be able to find what you need between these three suppliers.

Re(2): Parts for Oliver 1850

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 08:59:32 AM by Larry Harsin

Those are the exact 3 places that I would send you. Sorry for the delay in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show. Larry

1850 p.t.o.

IP: 216.166.165.77 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 03:36:01 PM by Dennis Bernard

I have an 1850 with dual p.t.o., and I have encountered a somewhat strange occurance. One day when I was bailing hay under load, all the sudden the 540 p.t.o. stopped turning the unit. Now the only p.t.o. that will turn is the 1000. However, it turns in reverse. I took the back of the case off, and saw that there is wear on the left side of the engaging collar, and that the fork on this side may have slipped off. May have this created this problem. There appears to be no wear on the engaging forks, and the collar and bearings are all as if new. The p.t.o. clutch was rebuilt less than 50 hours of p.t.o. working time. Also, I have taken the back plate off, and now that I have moved the shaft forward to allign the collar with the engaging forks it does not want to slide back in (the back cover is still attached to the shaft). What am I missing here, I am sure it is something simple, as this unit looks as new inside. Thanks for any input Larry, your time is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 p.t.o.

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 08:56:44 AM by Larry Harsin

This is a new one for me. I don't know. You are just going to see what you can do with this and go from there. Sorry to be so slow in answering. We have been gone to the National Oliver Show. Larry

Oliver Super 88

IP: 216.19.8.153 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 00:19:26 AM by Jim

Larry, I have an Oliver Super 88 row crop diesel, wide front and I want to take the Gemmer steering box off and put the saginaw manual steering box on my tractor. Will a steering box from a regular 88 gas, wide front fit my Super 88? And will I need to change the pedestal too? Also my rear main engine seal on my Super 88 has a pretty good leak. Is it a real difficult job to replace? What is involved to do the job?

Re(1): Oliver Super 88

IP: 67.2.249.196 Posted on August 30, 2004 at 08:52:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, it will fit. You will have to change the pedestal. Yes, it is fairly difficult. You will have to take it apart like you were doing a clutch job, plus, you will have to remove the fly wheel. Sorry to be slow in answering, we have been to the National Oliver Show this week. Larry

help with row crop 70

IP: 64.12.116.14 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 10:45:05 PM by ken voss

Hi I just received an Oliver 70 row crop serial # 211146 from my father in-law. The tractor had been sitting for 8 years. After cleaning the gas lines, checking the fluids and installing a new battery, the old Oliver started right up. Now I need some help.
1. After warming up the 6 cylinder I removed the old oil filter but there was no oil in it. The oil pressure gauge is in the work range and it seems to be running great. Any advice?
2. I can only find 2 forward gears and reverse. Should there be more?
3. The tractor has a buck saw mounted on the front, is this a stock item?
4. SN # 211146, from what I have read this is a 1937 HP 70 row crop but the brass tag on the engine says Oliver 70 row crop. Does anyone have any more info on the "Oliver and HP" switch over?
Last question my son and I plan on using the Oliver to work and plant food plots on our hunting land in Wisconsin, is this a practical idea? Or should we put the Oliver back into retirement?

Re(1): help with row crop 70

IP: 67.2.249.64 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 11:51:24 PM by Larry Harsin

1. With the engine running, I would put compressed air into the oil filter tube and see if it will dislodge the obstruction. Otherwise, you will have to take the pressure loose from the filter and find the obstruction.
2. Yes. there should be more. It sounds like you are in the top set of gears. You should have 2 more forward gears in the top neutral.
3. Not necessarily. It is just the type of work a lot of HP 70's did.
4. It's a Hart Parr 70. That is just the way they are. If you look at the tag that says Oliver, it will say Hart Parr Oliver Works, Charles City IA, on the bottom of it.
5. If it is usable, I'd take it out and use it. That is the best thing you can do with it.
Larry

oliver super engine panels

IP: 169.207.128.74 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 04:53:25 PM by Randy

Are the front engine panels the same for a super 66/77/88 or is the super 88 a different size?

Re(2): oliver super engine panels

IP: 67.2.249.64 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 11:45:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The S66 and the S77 front side shields are the same. The S88 front side shields are different. Larry

1550 Diesel Oliver-White

IP: 65.111.195.178 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 01:39:47 PM by Brenda

Bear with me here guys, Im a wife seeking info for my husbands White-Oliver. I have serial # as 73433-507 and model # 255-72017. The tractor a diesel, is yellow with a front loader model #1678 and an attached back hoe. Floyd county explained the loader model went with the 1550 model Oliver tractor.I'm also told it is the same as a 2-62 model White. Great..we got the manual but it isnt as on as we hoped, for expl. the specifications for oil are 5 3/4qt. w/filter yet it took almost 8qt. by dip stick...after running it ,the oil is "over filled" by dip stick and looks to have water in it. (it has bubbles but not frothy and keeps a dark color not milky or white). Anyone know what kind of engine is in this 1550 White-Oliver? and Any idea on oil problem? Hubby thinks changing the head gasket might be it? Can water run down the exhuast pipe when it rains? Is the problem water at all? Thank the Lord all your help!

Re(1): 1550 Diesel Oliver-White

IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 08:53:01 PM by Larry from MD The amount of oil used is about correct for a tractor with the large oil pan and the lay down oil filter.I have one of each and the small pan takes 6+ quarts and the larger is 7+.

Re(2): 1550 Diesel Oliver-White

IP: 67.2.249.64 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 11:43:04 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a White 2-62 Industrial. It has a 1550 engine. It is a Waukesha engine. Six qts. is about the right amount. The oil problem is probably that you put too much into the tractor. Absolutely, water can run down the exhaust pipe. Definitely, keep the exhaust covered when not using the tractor!! Get the engine warmed up and then remove the radiator cap and look in and see if the anti-freeze is foamy. If it is heating and pushing out anti-freeze you may have a head gasket problem. Larry

hart-parr oil filter

IP: 4.228.168.177 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 10:54:08 PM by Jerry Kessler

I am having a hard time finding an oil filter for a 1933 hart-parr 18-27. Took out what was in and found out it was a baldwin fuel filter. Perfect fit but cant find a replacement. Number on it is F-969-M or crosses over to a fleetguard FF173 . Old one is rusted and dirty. Would appreciate any help.

Re(1): hart-parr oil filter

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 01:02:09 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have an answer for this. Ask Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1650 Hydraulic and Transmission

IP: 63.228.48.140 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 06:14:43 PM by Scott

My 16 yr old, bless his heart, checked the tranny and hydraulic fluid on my 1650. Both are still ATF, by the way. He noticed that they were low and added fluid. Much to my dismay, he added 80-90 weight. The tractor only ran for about 20 minutes after he had done this. I plan on draining the tranny and hydraulics this weekend. My question is, should I be looking for any other problems that may be caused by this? #2 Does anyone have a method for getting all of the bad out? I've been told that there is not more than 1 or 2 qts in either system. #3 Is this even something that I should worry about. Thank you much for the help. Have gotten many tips for this machine while monitoring this site over the past couple years.

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulic and Transmission

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 00:59:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I would just drain it out and refill it with new oil and try it and see how it works. You can't get absolutely every bit out, just get all you can. I think it will be o.k. There is about 6 qts in one system and the other holds about 20 qts., so the 1 - 2 qts. may be what will be left in there after you drain them. I don't know for sure what will be, but I would put in fresh oil and try it. This has never happened to me, so I don't know what will happen. If you don't have an Operator's Manual, you should get one. Email the museum at: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(1): 1650 Hydraulic and Transmission

IP: 69.179.4.102 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 04:15:54 AM by Ron

When you buy an Operator's Manual you will learn that the hydraulic system has no drain, it must be pumped. Do this several times. The hydraulic system uses hydraulic oil, not ATF. The filter must be changed. If by "tranny" you mean the Over/Under or Hydraul-Shift, drain and refill it several times. Replace the filter. In tractor talk, the thing you sit on is the transmission/final drive or T/FD. The O/U or H/S (the thing under the gas tank) is never refered to as a "tranny". Gear oil, especially GL5 gear oil, contains sulphur (forms sulphuric acid) which will damage both units. I would be very aggressive about getting the units completely clean.

Re(2): 1650 Hydraulic and Transmission

IP: 63.228.48.140 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 03:54:05 PM by Scott

Thanks for the advice. I do have an operators manual already. Was more hoping to get some shortcuts or eliminate gotchas. I know that most of you do a lot more of this than I do. The tranny I referred to is indeed the Hydra-Shift on the unit. My mistake. And the hydraulic fluid in the unit is ATF as replaced by the local AGCO dealer near by when I had a loader installed on this machine. Thanks again for the advice, you guys are all very helpful!

Re(3): 1650 Hydraulic and Transmission

IP: 68.1.213.225 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 11:10:01 PM by j ulmer

Re: Your hydra-shift unit. The 90 wt oil's viscosity is much thicker and less minscible (the way it mixes) When I worked at the Ford dealership years ago (the late 60's) we had a customer's pickup with automatic trans topped off with 90w gear oil ( for a standard transmission) The oil caused the clutch facings to slip, but before tearing it down and rebuilding the Ford Tech people suggested draining the transmission to get the most of the offending product out and then replacing with 50/50 ATF and diesel fuel, running at idle until it was warm and then going through the gears up and down to shift through the various passages several times, but not straining the unit to keep from slipping the clutch packs. They did that and drained it twice and then refilled it with clean ATF and it ran okay for years. The materials and techonology should be about the same time frame. Like the guys said, get it cleaned out and you should not have problems. Lots of luck!!

Oliver Diesel 1655 vs 1750/1755

IP: 64.136.27.226 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 03:28:06 PM by Kerry

Larry, I am looking for a 60-75 hp diesel Oliver to pull a 5 yd Reynolds bucket / excavator, a 10 ft. land leveler, and to brushhog 160 acres of pasture. I have heard from several owners of 1750 and 1755 tractors who have had block and crankshaft failures of the 310 Wakesha engine. Enough that I am leary of these two models. However, I like the 1650 series, especially the 1655 model, yet it uses a 282 Wakesha Diesel engine. Is this 283 engine better than the 310 model which seems to have a questionable reliability history? All opinion and input is appreciated. BTW, does the 1650 / 1655 series have 540 or 1000 RPM PTO...or both?

Re(1): Oliver Diesel 1655 vs 1750/1755

IP: 69.179.4.102 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 05:06:55 PM by Ron

I do similar work with a 1650 gas. 66hp and 265ci. That engine is near bulletproof. 1650s could be had with either the 540 or 1000 or a dual speed unit that allowed you to have either by just swapping the PTO shaft.

Re(2): Oliver Diesel 1655 vs 1750/1755

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 01:07:12 AM by Larry Harsin

The 283 has a better track record than the 310. I concur with Ron on the information given above. Larry

Seat for 1550

IP: 165.138.147.4 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 03:09:10 PM by Jeff

The seat is worn out on a 1550 I just bought. Can you recommend a seat replacement or seat cushion replacement. Mine doesn't have the upper backrest which I would like to have.

Re(1): Seat for 1550

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 00:52:02 AM by Larry Harsin

Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Oliver semi mount plow

IP: 63.246.66.95 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 12:35:31 PM by William Rutter

I'm in need of a manual or instructions for a semi-mount 3 bottom 14" oliver plow. Unit has no tag etc, but apprears to be adjustable to 12" or 16" bottoms. It has a tail wheel which is veritcal. I wish to find recommended tractor wheel settings and and explanation of adjustment on left of threaded rod to left hitch pin bar. Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Oliver semi mount plow

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 00:50:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I think your plow is a 5440 Oliver plow. You can get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. When you email them, tell them the above details to make sure this is correct. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Thanks

IP: 135.12.0.34 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 07:32:01 AM by Henry G. Rotondo

Hi Larry I got the power steering fixed on my 1850 per your advice(with Charlynn steering valve) It worked out very well.- Thanks for the help

Re(1): Thanks

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on August 24, 2004 at 00:43:04 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad we could help. Larry

1800 Oliver

IP: 66.231.30.16 Posted on August 21, 2004 at 11:39:34 PM by James

Just bought a 1800 Oliver and was wondering what type of fluid goes into the resevoir under the seat, mine a little low. Also looking for a complete front end assy. for the same tractor. About how much can I expect to spend? thanks jrw

Re(1): 1800 Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 07:12:53 AM by Larry Harsin

Use non-foaming 10 or 20 weight hydraulic oil. A complete wide front will be $500 - $750. A narrow front will be approx. $300. Larry

'74 Oliver 1265

IP: 67.107.152.121 Posted on August 21, 2004 at 11:33:12 AM by jim lyman

Didnt recall Id sent earlier msg via your msg brd. However, ANY info on subj tractor will be very welcome. Thnks for the manual info....only problem with machine is an occasional bearing (?) clash noise when letting clutch out...any clues? thanks jim lyman

Re(1): '74 Oliver 1265

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 07:10:01 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. See if you can figure something out from your manual. Larry

transmission

IP: 209.214.45.121 Posted on August 20, 2004 at 08:19:44 PM by KAREN ROTZ

Larry, I have a 1955 super 77 diesel, runs great, I was picking up hay rolls yesterday we bailed, and i shifted into 4 th gear without problems when I went back to low reverse and then tried to go back up into upper gears it wouldn't go. I now have only the 4 gears in lower sextion of pattern. Do these get hung up and what can I do ? Thanks Brian

Re(1): transmission

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 07:07:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You may just have the shift lever dislocated from the shift rail. Just unbolt the shift lever and try reinstalling it. Larry

1974 oliver M1265

IP: 66.238.104.135 Posted on August 20, 2004 at 04:23:00 PM by jim lyman

Hello...Cant seem to find any infor on subj tractor..its a 3 cyl dsl made by fiat. Whats the HP, and any info as to manuals, paint codes, etc. Thank you Re(1): 1974 oliver M1265

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 07:04:38 AM by Larry Harsin

It is an Oliver 1265. It has 41 HP. You can get Operator's Manual and a Shop Manual from the museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net For paint, Oliver Meadow Green is Martin Senour 99L-3751, Clover white is PPG DAR 8805. Or go to an AGCO dealer and buy Meadow Green and Clover White. I find it is the cheapest there. Larry

S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 10:29:26 PM by Larry

I am looking for options other than replace the head gasket. My S55 runs good - no load. I tried plowing with it and it boils over rapidly. No water in oil pan. Water pump is not leading. WHAT ELSE SHOULD I CHECK BEFORE I PULL THE HEAD?

Re(1): S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 11:18:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd take the radiator to a radiator shop and have it back flushed and have it flow tested. It may be in need of a clean out job. Larry

Re(1): S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 69.179.0.225 Posted on August 21, 2004 at 02:11:24 PM by Ron

Start it cold with the radiator cap off. Fill coolant to top. Let the engine warm. Observe the coolant... if it bubbles, the engine has to come apart. If not, you may have a water pump with the impeller so worn it won't pump a high enough volume, a block and/or radiator that's full of rust and scale, a defective radiator cap, a pinhole leak in the radiator or a hose, etc.

Re(2): S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 143.115.159.56 Posted on August 22, 2004 at 10:05:45 PM by Larry

The radiator was fully cleaned 3 years ago with the restoration. Radiator is clean. That is why I am looking for hints on something to look at rather than the head gasket leak. I am going to work on it tomorrow to have it good enough to take it to the show in Madison, SD. It doesn't boil over when I drive it down the road.

Re(3): S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 06:57:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Did you retorque the cylinder head. If not, do that. That might be what is going on. Larry

Re(4): S 55 radiator boil over

IP: 68.13.174.191 Posted on August 25, 2004 at 00:08:04 AM by Larry

Thanks for the idea. I will get a new valve cover gasket. Then drain the fuel tank and start the process.

1800 oliver

IP: 205.200.63.17 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 07:43:40 PM by Al

Larry I have an 1800 diesal which has a rebuilt engine. Every so often it either bends or breaks a push rod. Why does this keep happening and how can I fix the problem?

Re(1): 1800 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 11:15:45 PM by Larry Harsin

Check and make sure everything is oiling properly up there in all of those mechanisms. Larry

Re(2): 1800 oliver

IP: 205.200.48.119 Posted on August 20, 2004 at 06:17:25 AM by Al

Everything is oiled up there, but when you run it with the valve cover off you can't see oil being sprayed in there. Should you be able to?

Re(3): 1800 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on August 23, 2004 at 06:53:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The main thing is that there is oil getting on all of the valve stems. The engine doesn't put a whole lot of oil up there. Do the valve stems have seals on them? If they have seals, they may have to be removed, as it is causing it to keep oil out of the guide and stem. This might be causing the sticking. You should just remove the seal from the one that is giving you the trouble. Larry

Steering for 550 Oliver

IP: 12.13.131.132 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 12:24:31 PM by Harold Underwood

Could anyone please tell me why all of a sudden my tractor is very hard to steer? I have taken it apart and tried to see where it might need oil but can't find anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): Steering for 550 Oliver

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 11:13:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I imagine the steering box under the steering wheel is in need of a rebuild. Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. has these and will do a switch out with you. 800-320-6224. Larry

1550 purchase

IP: 69.67.254.38 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 08:57:07 AM by Bob McElver

Hi Larry, First time posting, and maybe to the "Oliver owners group". Don't know for sure yet, but that was why I wanted to ask your opinion. I located an Oliver 1550 (gas) w/loader (which has Oliver nameplates on it as well), and it comes with a backblade, and "King Kutter" brushhog for $6k. The tractor has 800 hrs on it following a rebuild, the clutch and brakes had just recently been replaced, new exhaust and intake manifolds, new battery, new front tires, and the carb has been rebuilt. The old fella that owns it has taken great care of it and visually, it appears in great shape with the original paint. He also has manuals with it, and lots of other goodies. I know it sounds kinda dumb after all that, but being ignorant of the "Oliver World" somewhat, what's your take on it ?

Re(1): 1550 purchase

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 11:10:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If you like it and the tractor suits you, I think you should buy it. It sounds like a good value. Larry

1950 died

IP: 66.97.237.168 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 09:53:33 PM by Dan F

My 1950 with the GM diesel started running rough at high RPM's yesterday and losing power at times. I checked the air filters and changed the fuel filters. Had a hard time getting the fuel system bled to restart the tractor. Didn't seem to help much but I had baling to do and rain coming so I used it for about 2 hours. Seemed like it was getting better and then it quit just like I shut the fuel off. I have fuel at the outlet of the secondary filter although not a real strong stream. The tractor sounds like it's almost starting when it cranks over but just a trace of smoke from the exhaust.

Re(1): 1950 died

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 10:12:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Did you check the outlet in the tank to make sure there is plenty of fuel available to get to the filters. I'd unscrew the outlet and make sure it was clear. That's about all I can offer. Larry

Re(2): 1950 died

IP: 66.97.237.168 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 10:38:43 PM by Dan F

I have't checked that yet. I did get it started again. The emergency shutdown valve had tripped. The tractor seems to run smoothly until about 1800 to 2300 rpm then starts to miss. Misses more under load than no load. If I advance the throttle slowly I can't hear any miss until at least 2000 rpm. If I advance it quickly I can hear it for a second or two as low as 1400.

Re(3): 1950 died

IP: 67.2.249.246 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 07:33:12 AM by Larry Harsin

It's not getting enough fuel. Larry

Attach Oliver rear mount mower to Super 55

IP: 207.230.212.90 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 03:13:23 PM by gene

I've purchased an Oliver Super 55 with attachments. Need a little help getting the oliver rear mounted mower attached. Especially with the cable that attaches to the left hand side of the tractor.

Re(1): Attach Oliver rear mount mower to Super 55

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 10:08:23 PM by Larry Harsin

If you would get an Operator's Manual for the mower from Charles City, it would show you how to do this. It's been awhile since I did this. Email Mary Ann Townsend: fchs@fiai.net Larry

oliver 88 brakes

IP: 140.141.2.9 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 02:02:52 PM by terry2567

Hi i replaced the brake liner on my 1949 88 and when you apply the brake it makes a sharp pitch noise. Do you have any soulotions for this problem?. Thanks Terry ohio

Re(1): oliver 88 brakes

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 10:04:15 PM by Larry Harsin

No, I don't. I've had this same thing happen. Sometimes it goes away, sometimes it doesn't. Larry

1850 HYD PUMP

IP: 63.240.135.30 Posted on August 17, 2004 at 11:40:20 AM by KELLY

LARRY, I AM LOOKING FOR A HYDRAULIC PUMP FOR AN 1850 OLIVER TRACTOR I AM JUST NOT FINDING A GOOD ONE I WOULD LIKE TO HAVE NEW OR REBUILT...ANY IDEAS? THANKS KELLY

Re(1): 1850 HYD PUMP

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 08:23:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1850 HYD PUMP

IP: 66.97.237.168 Posted on August 18, 2004 at 10:48:50 PM by Dan F

I just got a new one from crawler heaven for less than half of what my Agco dealer wanted. It's a 12 gpm pump. The picture on their website didn't really look right but it fit perfectly. http://www.crawlerheaven.com/ Look under ai products.

Re(3): 1850 HYD PUMP

IP: 67.2.248.36 Posted on August 19, 2004 at 11:21:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. carries these. And, yes, they are about half of what AGCO asks for them. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 205.188.116.135 Posted on August 16, 2004 at 06:30:25 PM by Tom Tart

Hello, I just purchased a 1949 Oliver 77 gas powered, and love it. I am interested in adding a hydraulic unit and a 3 point hitch. Can you tell me where I can find these parts?

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on August 17, 2004 at 07:46:07 AM by Larry Harsin

I have a hydraulic for that tractor. Email me if you are interested. For a 3 pt., contact Saginaw Co. Tractor Parts 810-638-5787. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 77

IP: 24.207.169.159 Posted on August 21, 2004 at 06:14:52 PM by Marty

With Larry's advice I purchased a three point from Saginaw Co for my 880. At first I thought it was a little pricey but after shopping around I found it to be a good price. It is super heavy duty and came with two cyclinders, bolted on in a matter of minutes. I had the hoses and brush hog mowing all within a coulple of hours. If you want to e-mail me I can send you pictures. Good Luck with the oliver I put some work in mine but it was all worth it. Marty

hydra power

IP: 4.245.46.39 Posted on August 16, 2004 at 04:32:02 PM by Fats Larry,chang oil in my 1550 hydra power.book calls for type A.i cant find it anymore.what should i use?thanks,Fats

Re(1): hydra power

IP: 69.179.0.225 Posted on August 17, 2004 at 06:11:11 AM by Ron

Type "A" was replaced many years ago by Dexron... any Dexron will work, Dexron II, Dexron III.

Re(2): hydra power

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on August 17, 2004 at 07:42:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Now it is called Mercon. Sometimes it will say Dexron Mercon. Sometimes it is just called Automatic Transmission Fluid or ATF. Larry

Oliver 60 RC

IP: 206.211.166.55 Posted on August 16, 2004 at 09:21:45 AM by Rick Wilkinson

I recently purchased this tractor and want to restore it. I will need a seat, fenders and the Left front side shield is missing. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The list my grow as I get into the mechanical stuff. Rick

Re(1): Oliver 60 RC

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on August 17, 2004 at 07:39:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these parts for a 60. You could check with Arnold Meyer at email: almeyer@frontiernet.net or Tim Smith at email: smittytractor@aol.com You can get reproduction fenders and side panels from Steiner Tractor Parts 810-695-1919. Larry

Got the brakes working on the Super 55

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on August 16, 2004 at 01:21:29 AM by PStanley

Thanks everyone for the input on the brake problem on my Super 55. They had been sticking even when the adjustment was backed off. I tried reinstalling and there are the 3 bolts that get torqued to 32-37 ft.lb.s So, as I torqued each one I tried turning the hub. When I got to the third one the brakes seized. So, the third bolt was backed off and I torqued it to 25 ft.lbs. Once I had the axles turning freely I set the adjustment as per the maual and it works great now. Thanks again.

Re(1): Got the brakes working on the Super 55

IP: 67.2.242.67 Posted on August 16, 2004 at 08:16:57 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad to hear you got it going. Larry

GVW for 1800

IP: 66.82.9.26 Posted on August 15, 2004 at 04:39:13 PM by Mike Smith

What's the approximate vehicle weight (for trailering purposes) for an Oliver 1800 gas, no supp. weights, fluid in tires? Thanks.

Re(1): GVW for 1800

IP: 67.2.248.49 Posted on August 15, 2004 at 10:34:30 PM by Larry Harsin

Shipping weight on the 1800 2 wheel drive is 8400 lbs. Add for fluid or extra weights. Larry

Oliver 16xx high speed tranny

IP: 192.76.80.74 Posted on August 13, 2004 at 09:40:58 AM by puls

how do you tell if it is has the high speed transmission in by the serial number, whats the code.

Re(1): Oliver 16xx high speed tranny

IP: 67.2.248.22 Posted on August 14, 2004 at 10:49:06 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the code for these numbers either. However, on the high speed transmission on a 1650 that I have, the number is 456. I'm thinking that would possibly be the same on your tractor. Larry

77 Gas Cam & Lifters

IP: 216.93.103.244 Posted on August 11, 2004 at 10:33:51 PM by Kris

Are there any sources for a reground cam & lifters for a 77 Standard Gas?

Re(1): 77 Gas Cam & Lifters

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:29:10 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

PTO

IP: 65.248.107.175 Posted on August 11, 2004 at 11:13:52 AM by KIM

HI LARRY WHILE MOWING WITH MY 6FT SHREDDER, MY PTO STARTED TO SLIP, WHEN I HIT THE THICK GRASS. IT NEVER SLIPPED BEFORE . I SHUT IT DOWN WHEN I HEARD A TYPE OF HUMMING. ANY IDEAS?

Re(1): PTO

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:24:34 AM by Larry Harsin

What model tractor is this? It sounds like the PTO needs to be tightened. Larry

Re(2): PTO

IP: 65.248.107.175 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:49:37 AM by KIM

1967 - 1650 OLIVER

Re(3): PTO

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on August 13, 2004 at 07:42:49 AM by Larry Harsin

Check your Operator's Manual. It will tell you how to adjust the PTO clutch. Larry

60 ?

IP: 216.106.56.67 Posted on August 10, 2004 at 09:42:23 PM by Jason Epperson

Hi Larry. How is it going? My neighbors have a 60 rowcrop that is completely overhauled with all new sleeves, pistons, bearings, head work, the whole works. We had the carburetor apart several times and soaked it for two weeks in carb cleaner but we can't get it to start when it is cold unles you crank it with the hand crank. When we do get it to run it runs and idles fine but if you pull the throttle all the way down to the last notch it will die. I took the carb off of my 60 and it starts and runs fine with it on there. Could it be that the float level is wrong and it is not getting enough fuel? We cleaned every passage in the carb several times with little tip cleaners and carb cleaner goes through all the passages. Any Ideas? Thank you.

Re(1): 60 ?

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:22:12 AM by Larry Harsin

If you would take the drain plug out of the bottom of the carb bowl and make sure that the holes are open where the fuel goes down into the main jet. Sometimes those get crusted over and don't let the gas get in there. This is all that I can think of. Larry

1974 oliver m1265

IP: 67.107.152.145 Posted on August 10, 2004 at 11:54:29 AM by jim lyman

Hi just bought subj tractor. Its a 3 cl dsl...2150 hours know nothinh about the macine...need operating and service manuals an 3 pt hith components. jim lyman

Re(1): 1974 oliver m1265

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:18:48 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get Operator's Manuals and Service Manuals from Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net For a 3 pt. check with: www.ricksagriparts.com or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. The 1265 is a real good little tractor. Larry

lower lift links/drawbar

IP: 24.198.4.61 Posted on August 10, 2004 at 09:28:42 AM by Herb

Question: 1) Is this an orignal drawbar?
2) If I remove the drawbar,can I just attach the lower links,so the unit becomes a 3-pt hitch?
3) If this is possible,what size toplink can I use?
4) If I buy lower lift links,is there a particular length?
5) did this tractor have a 3-pt hitch?
I have been told so many different "stories",I am totally confused. Originally,the toplink was a single ended and overload release unit. Unable to find a replacement. The tractor is a David Brown 850,disguised as an Oliver 500. kind regards, Herb

Re(1): lower lift links/drawbar

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:15:06 AM by Larry Harsin 1. I don't know if this is the original drawbar. There are no D.B. tractors in our area.
2. I think that is the way it was intended to work.
3. I don't know. You may be able to get an Operator's Manual from Charles City. That would clear up some of your questions. Email them at: fchs@fiai.net
4. Check with your Case/IH Dealer. They may be able to give you a source of parts for this. Case sold D.B. tractors for awhile. They may even have some parts.
5. They made them for it.
Larry

Re(2): lower lift links/drawbar

IP: 65.6.57.65 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 10:25:01 PM by George Steadman

Try Carmichael tractor in White Pine Tn Talk to Buck, he is an old Case dealer and has several DB parted out. I think he could help. 865-674-2229

Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 11:47:59 PM by PStanley

Larry, I am restoring my Super 55 (first restoration) and I have put in new brake parts. When I install the brake cover there seems to be very little play, if any in the pedal. Seems as though the disks may be touching without even pressing on the pedal. I torqued the cover according to the manual. Is this normal for new brakes?

Re(1): Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 4.251.120.84 Posted on August 10, 2004 at 01:46:33 PM by Mike B

Let's see what Larry says but there should be about two inches of travel before the pedals engage. There is independent adjustment provided (5/16" bolts with jam nuts) located beneath the tractor between the linkage yokes in front of the brake housings. Maybe you just need to slacken the adjustment after the new pads were installed. Adjust them so that the engagement point is even (about the second or third notch on the brake lock) and that the tractor rolls by hand when the brakes are disengaged. Be aware that sometimes the balls get stuck in their pockets. Make sure that there is no grease or oil as this attracts dirt. Everything should be clean and dry. Good luck!

Re(2): Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:06:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I agree that the adjustment should be backed off and checked out. Be sure the springs that hold the metal plates together are good and not stretched. Larry

Re(3): Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 70.69.122.128 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 12:45:20 PM by Super 55

All the parts are new. Someone on the YTMag board had another model of Oliver and said he had to put sims under his brake cover to give it more play. I'm still scratching my head.

Re(4): Brakes on a Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.104 Posted on August 13, 2004 at 07:50:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I've never had to do that on a S55, but maybe it is possible. Larry

Oliver 1850

IP: 209.143.32.116 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 10:37:39 PM by Steve Dwenger

There is an Oliver 1850 Diesel, year 1965, for sale and I am looking at purchasing it. Are there Specific items I need to look at? Are the engines good on this model and year oliver? Can you buy a front end loader for this tractor?

Re(1): Oliver 1850

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:35:47 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1850 was certified to have 92 HP. Things to check--- How well it starts and does the tractor drive and run well. Does it have any leaks? Is the transmission quiet? Does the hydraulic work well and does it steer o.k.? How complete it the tractor? (All the tin etc?) Does it have good straight sheet metal? Can the seller furnish any history of the tractor - for instance when it was last overhauled? New rear tires will be approx. $1000. Front end loaders are still available for this tractor. I have a loader at the current time that will fit that tractor. It is a WL42 Westendorf. If you are interested, call or email me. Larry

550 oliver

IP: 4.244.54.67 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 06:44:15 PM by Marlow

Larry,i have found a 550 that has been sitting for 2yrs.he took off the gen.and power steering pump to put on an alt.he has these units.the tin is great,the engine is free but hasnt a drawbar.he is asking $1,500.do you think that is too much money?thank you,Marlow

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 4.251.120.84 Posted on August 10, 2004 at 02:10:40 PM by Mike B

Marlow, You did not state the year but any 550 in near complete condition is worth $1500. But since you mentioned generator and power steering pump as a unit, it is an early model which in my opinion is more desireable. Since there is evidence that it had power steering at one time you should look to see what other components are left behind. These are rare and desireable but they were often on the "industrial" models which may not have a TPH or PTO. The generator/PS pump can be found on '55-57 Chevys, although the pressure must be reduced (easy to do). The drawbar is not that rare and you can find one for about $250. Write to me (or call 973-313-1173)and I'll be happy to give you some tips on what to look for. Good luck. Mike

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 09:00:38 AM by Larry Harsin

If the tractor will run, grab it. Larry

1555

IP: 67.104.152.58 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 01:00:39 PM by Jeremy

I have a 1555 gas that was running fine until the other day when the ground speed just slowed down to a craw, then to nothing. Checked the clutch and chain and both seem okay, looking for any ideas on why I lost ground speed for now you can get the tractor to move really slowly in only 1/3 and 2 along with R1/R2. The Engine, PTO, and Hydraulics are still running strong. Thank you

Re(1): 1555

IP: 67.2.248.210 Posted on August 12, 2004 at 08:58:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Possibly the lining could have come off of your engine clutch or a spline stripped off of a clutch shaft. Larry

Super 77 hydraulic pump leaking

IP: 158.247.216.19 Posted on August 8, 2004 at 03:55:03 PM by Geoffrey in KS

Larry, The hydraulic pump on my super 77 is leaking oil into the rear end even while it is not running. What is usually the cause of this? Thanks, Geoffrey

Re(1): Super 77 hydraulic pump leaking

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 00:05:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Usually it is bad bearings and seals. However, it can also be a cracked center plate, so check for that when you have it apart. Larry

Super 88 ID

IP: 205.188.116.135 Posted on August 8, 2004 at 11:38:57 AM by Ryan Brown

I am looking at a Super 88 Diesel. The tractor is in very nice shape and I would like to know the year it was built. I believe it is a 1956 model. These are the numbers from the serial number plate with all the correct spacings and dashes. What information does the spec number give? Thanks. Specification number 18-0077 Serial number 38 314-801

Re(1): Super 88 ID

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 00:11:21 AM by Larry Harsin

It is a 1956 model. The serial number is 38 314. The 801 is a code number for the transmission. The Spec number is a code number that the factory used to tell how the tractor was built. Larry

fleetline sidepanels

IP: 68.47.35.8 Posted on August 6, 2004 at 06:42:20 PM by David

Does anyone have a good set of sidepanels for an 88? What would be a good price? Grills maybe too.

Re(1): fleetline sidepanels

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on August 6, 2004 at 10:40:28 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get new reproduction panels from Richard Lynch 937-456-6686. I have a set of grills that are just average and would need some work. Email me if you are interested in them. 712-362-2966. Larry

oliver 1755 diesel

IP: 24.29.174.62 Posted on August 5, 2004 at 08:48:02 PM by Jim Butler

What do you set the timing in degrees on an oliver 1755 diesel, Just had injection rebuilt.

Re(1): oliver 1755 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on August 9, 2004 at 00:13:18 AM by Larry Harsin

Set it at 4 degrees before Top Dead Center. Larry

28-44

IP: 68.86.34.79 Posted on August 5, 2004 at 12:44:50 PM by chris simmons

Hi, its me again I was just wondering, I heard about a thresherman's specail being produced for the 28-44. The serial number plate does not say the horsepower rating and it has cast wheels all around. The serial number indicates its a 1934 and so does the casting on the block. Any information would be greatly appreciated. What would the value be in running order in Kansas City, Missouri. Thanks Chris

Re(1): 28-44

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on August 6, 2004 at 10:36:06 PM by Larry Harsin

There was a Thresherman's Secial produced for the 28-44. The numbers 28-44 mean 28 hp on the draw bar and 44 hp on the belt. I have no idea of value as there are so few of them. Contact Kurt Aumann. He would know as well as anybody. 888-282-8648 or website: www.aumannauctions.com Larry

1750-1850 oliver pump

IP: 207.30.189.154 Posted on August 5, 2004 at 12:35:00 PM by David

1750-1850 oliver pump was let run dry- I filled the hyd. oil res. but no dice. Vickers pump has hydralic pistons rotating on an eccentric, they look alright-what got fried? Why did the high pitch wine stop? What needs replaced?

Re(1): 1750-1850 oliver pump

IP: 67.2.249.212 Posted on August 6, 2004 at 10:27:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Apparently it is scored someway and it ruined it. You'll probably have to replace the pump. Larry

fuel pump

IP: 65.128.64.100 Posted on August 4, 2004 at 08:36:16 PM by mindy

I have a 2255 Oliver with a 3150 CAT, I was needing to know how to turn down the rpms for a tractor pull?

Re(1): fuel pump

IP: 67.2.249.202 Posted on August 4, 2004 at 11:12:20 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not sure how to do this. Can you call your local CAT dealer and ask them?? Larry

HP 2655 Oliver articulated

IP: 149.174.164.8 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:48:06 PM by JBird

Just wondering how many horses the 2655 put out and which engine it has in it. Looks nice.

Re(1): HP 2655 Oliver articulated

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:59:17 PM by Larry Harsin

It is a Minneapolis Moline engine. It is 585 cubic inch. The drawbar HP is 143. This tractor works really nice. We have used it in the field. If you are interested in it, email us at: cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

3 or 4 plow?

IP: 4.224.207.96 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:04:09 PM by john F

When the S-88 diesel & gas was introduced, Was it considered a 3 or 4 plow tractor?

Re(1): 3 or 4 plow?

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:56:06 PM by Larry Harsin

It was considered a 4 plow tractor. Larry

Narrow front to wide

IP: 192.76.80.74 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 07:34:31 AM by joh

How hard is it to change from narrow front to wide front end. also what is the fuel consumption of a oliver 1650 high speed tractor.

Re(1): Narrow front to wide

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 09:52:09 PM by Larry Harsin

It takes me a short half day to switch front ends on a 1650. If you havn't done it before, it is a heck of a job. If you want to visit about it, call me at 712-362-2966. A 1650 gas will burn 3 1/2 to 4 gal per hour with a full load. Larry

S 88

IP: 65.169.138.16 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 00:30:00 AM by Mike I am currently looking into the purchase of a what I believe to be a '57 Super 88. It has original paint and everything works but has no belt pulley. Was this an option at the time or has someone robbed parts of it. The sheetmetal has the hole cut out for it but no sign that a belt pulley ever existed. Also would $1800 for it be fair in a northern IL market.

Re(1): S 88

IP: 67.2.249.174 Posted on August 3, 2004 at 04:44:18 AM by Larry Harsin

The belt pulley was an option. If you want one, we have them. Just email us. $1800 is a fair price for a S88. Larry

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