"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Archives

"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - Mid-July thru August, 2006 Archives

880 injection pump

IP: 208.252.179.24 Posted on August 28, 2006 at 06:53:24 PM by M.Miller

I have a 59 880 with a roosa-master pump is this correct,can I check the block numbers with the serial tag?

Re(1): 880 injection pump

IP: 67.2.242.100 Posted on August 28, 2006 at 10:45:08 PM by Larry Harsin

The Roosa-Master pump was only installed on the last 880's in 1963. But if you are sure that your tractor is a 1959, it has probably been changed to be a Roosa-Master. American Bosch was used on all 880's until the last year of production. The tag on the pump says what it is. Refer to an Oliver 880 parts book to learn which serial numbers of tractor had which one. Larry

550 Governor

IP: 64.146.251.52 Posted on August 28, 2006 at 02:04:01 PM by ScottJ

What is the most simplest way to check to see if the governor is operating at all. Current linkage set up is totally messed up. Tried to set the linkage according to the manual but to no avail. I think the governor is not doing its part but I am not sure. Dont know where to start.

Re(1): 550 Governor

IP: 67.2.242.100 Posted on August 28, 2006 at 10:38:56 PM by Larry Harsin

To check the governor, put the tractor in road gear, set the brakes, set the engine about 1/2 throttle, then engage the clutch and see if the engine will pick up the load. You can watch and see if the governor arm moves when you put a load on the engine. If the engine picks up the load, the governor is working. If the engine doesn't respond and try to hold it's speed, I would unbolt the governor housing from the front of the engine and inspect the governor weights, thrust bearing etc. The governor thrust washer quite often needs to be replaced. The pins and governor weights need to be inspected for wear, as well as the thrust bearing assembly. Make sure there is no binding in any of the linkage. Larry

88 hydraulic pump

IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on August 27, 2006 at 08:52:34 PM by Dave Drury

How was the Dover show? I managed to miss it again. I have a friend who has an 88 that is leaking hydraulic oil into the rear end. I told him how to pull the PTO and hydraulic unit and where the seals were on the pump. He said he wasn't going to worry about it, he just won't use the hydraulic. Is that an option? Won't the pump sieze up if he quits putting oil in it and trash the pto shaft? Keep up the good work.

Re(1): 88 hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on August 27, 2006 at 09:10:18 PM by Larry Harsin

That is not an option!!! He had better put some oil in there or he will ruin the hydraulic pump. It can sieze up and it can ruin the PTO shaft, but for sure, he will ruin the hydraulic pump. Larry

Re(2): 88 hydraulic pump

IP: 67.2.249.34 Posted on August 29, 2006 at 05:36:05 AM by Larry Harsin

P.S. The Dover Show was great!!!! We saw lots of beautiful Olivers, lots of old friends and we made many new friends! There were lots of parts vendors and there were at least a dozen 2255's which was the feature Oliver. The other feature tractor was the 1355 Minneapolis Moline. I saw one there, but there were a lot of other beautiful Minneapolis Molines. Larry

1650 & 88 camshafts

IP: 162.39.50.68 Posted on August 27, 2006 at 06:02:21 PM by Derek

I am wondering if the camshafts are the same on a 1600/1650/1655 and an 88/880, both diesels. I'm not sure since the 88/880s had the Bosch pump and the 1650 had the Roosa Master pump on it. Thanks for any information.

Re(1): 1650 & 88 camshafts

IP: 67.2.248.229 Posted on August 27, 2006 at 09:06:45 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. I think the 880 diesel would work in the 1600 diesel, but when you start going on up to the 1650, I don't think it will work. The 1650 diesel is a different family of engines than the 880 and the 1600. Even the 1600 diesel engine is changed some from the 880, but it is still in the same family. The last 880 diesels had the Roosa Master pump also, but that isn't the determining factor. It is the engine families. The 1650 diesel is a Lanova-Cell engine, and it is in a separate family. Then the late 1650 and 1655 diesel is Direct Injection, another engine family, again different. Larry

energy cell

IP: 70.52.20.187 Posted on August 15, 2006 at 07:07:03 PM by wayne

Can you tell me what energy cells are? I hear of them often but have no idea what they are thanks

Re(1): energy cell

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 10:46:52 PM by Larry Harsin

The fuel is sprayed into the cylinder by the injector and most of the fuel goes into the energy cell and then burns back out gradually to give the tractor the power. Larry

Re(2): energy cell

IP: 70.52.9.144 Posted on August 26, 2006 at 07:56:09 AM by wayne

Is the energy cell also called the prechamber ( pre combustion chamber) ?? If I'm right why is a car diesel called precombustion and tractor energy cell .. I'm probably too curious.

Re(3): energy cell

IP: 67.2.249.192 Posted on August 26, 2006 at 07:58:01 PM by Larry Harsin

They are of a little bit different configuration from each other, but they accompolish the same thing. Larry

Oliver 1800 - Falling Oil Pressure with concomitant knocking

IP: 209.234.80.21 Posted on August 25, 2006 at 10:37:09 AM by Jim Smith

Folks: I overhauled the engine in my 1964 1800 C Diesel this past spring. I had a complete valve job, new rings, new sleeves, new pistons, new rod bearings, new wrist pin bushings. I did not overhaul the oil pump, though. I have worked the tractor in our hay operation for about 15 hours and have the following issue that I need suggestions for remedying. When cold the oil pressure is 40, within 1 minutes of running the pressure drops to about 36, after 3 minutes it is at 30, and after about 5 minutes is is down to 25. As the pressure drops a knocking increases in the engine. The sounds is almost like a sewing machine on hyper drive. My thought is that something in the oil pump is not right and results in less oil where it needs to go. Any suggestions?

Re(1): Oliver 1800 - Falling Oil Pressure with concomitant knocking

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on August 26, 2006 at 05:50:46 AM by Larry Harsin

From your description, I would remove the oil pump and repair it as needed. I am pretty sure you will find wear on the shaft and bushings on the oil pump. Larry

77RC input shaft

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on August 25, 2006 at 10:16:31 AM by Jeremy B

I striped out the splines on my input shaft in to the transmission on my 77. I have the new coupler and shaft, and I need to know if I will have to take the transmission apart to instal the new one? Or, can I repair this by pulling the engin and going in that way. Thanks

Re(1): 77RC input shaft

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on August 26, 2006 at 05:47:19 AM by Larry Harsin

You don't need to remove the engine. Remove the hood and the fuel tank, then unbolt the dash and fold it up over the engine. Remove the PTO drive shaft from the rear. If the tractor has a belt pulley, it will have to be removed. If it has a hydraulic or mechanical power lift, that will have to be removed. From there, it will be evident what you have to do to install the shaft. Larry

1555 power steering

IP: 205.200.57.37 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 03:41:53 PM by Wes Hamm

I bought a 1555 at an auction ,the power steering does not work. I asume it shares fluid with the hydraulic system, it's full, any advice?

Re(1): 1555 power steering

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 11:13:59 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to determine if you have hydraulic pressure. Get a pressure gauge and install it on the flow divider to see if you are getting pressurized oil to the steering. Go from there. Larry

Re(2): 1555 power steering

IP: 4.249.108.60 Posted on August 24, 2006 at 11:36:12 AM by Larry from md

If everything else works I would think its a broken main spring in the flow divider.Its the valve by your left foot heel when sitting in the seat.Take off the 3 bolts holding on the rear half and remove the spring.Its easier checking the spring manualy than using a guage.

88 rc overhaul

IP: 69.24.185.106 Posted on August 21, 2006 at 10:27:37 PM by Blake G

Hi larry I ran into a guy today at work, Dave Neilsen of Ledyard Ia, and he said you could refer me to some one to help me with stroking the crank on my 88, and any other things possbile for some extra power, but still be reliable...thanks

Re(1): 88 rc overhaul

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 11:11:21 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd be reluctant to stroking the crank, because of cost. I would stay with the same stroke it has now and go with over bore sleeves and pistons. Check with Korves Bros. for engine overhaul kits. Email: korves@htc.net Phone: 618-939-6681. Another thing that would be easy to do is install an 880 cylinder head with matching manifold and carb. This would be the method I would persue. Larry

Re(2): 88 rc overhaul

IP: 71.10.88.88 Posted on August 23, 2006 at 09:00:37 AM by BlakeG

My tractor already has the 3 7/8 m&w's so I got the over bore, I'm trying to get more cubes yet, and I know its not the cheapest way, but you get the most gains....I've heard of some places down in Iowa that do a good amount of this, but no one gives me a name or number....

Re(3): 88 rc overhaul

IP: 69.24.185.106 Posted on August 23, 2006 at 10:31:52 PM by Blake G

Would a 1600 or 1650 head work...and what is the difference of a 880 head or a 1600 head to the 88?

Re(4): 88 rc overhaul

IP: 67.2.248.123 Posted on August 24, 2006 at 06:10:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think the 1600 & 1650 heads will work. They are made different. An 880 will work. Talk with Arnold Motor Supply about the stroking. Larry

Propane

IP: 216.176.88.249 Posted on August 20, 2006 at 03:52:03 PM by Steve Coventry

I have 1600 Gas. That I have thought about changing to propane.Would this cause me a problem and are there any used equipment available.

Re(1): Propane

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 11:07:01 PM by Larry Harsin

I am not aware of availability of used equipment. You can check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543 or Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Schuks 800-654-5191. First you will have to find the equipment which includes a tank. Talk to your LP supplier. He may know of someone who could do a field conversion for you. I have a 1650 LP tractor all set up. It can be seen on our Tractors for Sale page. Larry

side panels

IP: 24.171.82.94 Posted on August 19, 2006 at 05:01:33 PM by Sean D. Nettleton

larry, what is difference between the side panels for an 88o compared with ones from an 88, or are they interchangeable. thanks

Re(1): side panels

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 11:01:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The ones on the 88 cover the engine and are louvered. The ones on the 880 is more cosmetic and the engine is exposed. They are not the same. Larry

880 hydraulics

IP: 64.61.227.14 Posted on August 18, 2006 at 09:30:01 PM by dave

I recently purchased a 880 and the man I purchased it from said he put a new hydraulic pump on because the hydraulics were weak and they are still very weak with the new pump. I was wondering what to look for first.

Re(1): 880 hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 11:00:05 PM by Larry Harsin

It should be producing at least 1000 lbs. of pressure. If it isn't, you can obtain some shims to raise the pressure. The relief valve is in the base plate of the hydraulic unit, just to the left of where the gear shift lever sits. For instance, if you have 900 lbs of pressure, I would install 3 shims in the relief valve. The part number for the shim is K2079. You can get them from your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If you have to install shims, pump out all of the oil you can get from the unit. Then, you will have to unscrew the relief valve plunger and remove it from the base plate. Then take a magnet so you can retrieve the spring and plunger from in there. Install the shims between the nut and the spring. Then reassemble the assembly and insert it into the base plate. Larry

1800 Oliver tractor

IP: 63.18.230.211 Posted on August 16, 2006 at 08:37:41 PM by tom dekemper

I am looking at an 1800 oliver, 6cyl diesel Perkins powered tractor this weekend. Can you tell me what was the weaknesses of this tractor (ie brakes, transmission, ect.). anything you can tell me about this model will be appreciated. I have not seen a lot of 1800's so I'm not sure why this model is so rare in my area. thank you, Tom

Re(1): 1800 Oliver tractor

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 18, 2006 at 10:20:36 AM by J. Ulmler

I am not the guru, but if you are looking at an 1800 I don't think it has a Perkins. I've been told that only the 1850 had the Perkins and as its bell-housing to the clutch was different it would not swap with the Waukesau and conversly the Waukesau equipped models would not be retro-fitted with a Perkins. You might need to check closer as to what you are looking at as they are different birds. Have fun and good luck!

Re(2): 1800 Oliver tractor

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 10:51:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Jerry is correct. The 1800 diesel is a Waukesha engine. Never a Perkins from the factory. There are no particular weak points. They were good old tractors, and a lot of them have done a lot of hard work. If you can get some varification of when it was overhauled and the present condition, it would help. These engines are expensive to repair. Sorry to be slow in answering. We have been gone for a week to the National Oliver Show in Dover OH. Larry

energy cell

IP: 70.52.20.187 Posted on August 15, 2006 at 07:07:03 PM by wayne

Can you tell me what energy cells are? I hear ofthem often but have no idea what they are thanks

1650 diesel

IP: 207.231.118.219 Posted on August 15, 2006 at 04:02:21 AM by corre

The tractor used to have stand up power but now with a load on it it falls in rpm very fast and doesn't hope the motor has energy cells and is indirect injected any ideas would be very much helpful the motor has about 200 hours since a complete overhaul thankyou for any help you can give

Re(1): 1650 deisel

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on August 22, 2006 at 10:44:52 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have a fresh overhaul of the engine and it all of a sudden lost power, I'd be inclined to think it is the injection pump. Check that out first. Sorry to be so slow in answering, we have been gone to the National Oliver Show. Larry

Oliver 80

IP: 207.200.116.135 Posted on August 14, 2006 at 08:21:43 PM by Gene & Margit

Dear Larry, I hope you can help us. I brought a 1946 Oliver 80 for my husband for his birthday. We have all the metal pieces, however the tractor is showing it's age. The outer ring of the rear rims are really bad, need to be replaced and the rear tires are bad. I can't find tires 13x40. Can you guide me to the right direction? Also do you have any parts for this model as I'm sure I will need certain things? Do you know how many of these are still out there? Anyone you know has this model. Thank you for any information you may have for us. Margit & Gene

Re(1): Oliver 80

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on August 14, 2006 at 09:43:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Miller Tire website: www.millertire.com Arnold Meyer has a restored 80. His email is: almeyer@frontiernet.net I do not have any parts for this tractor. I don't see them too often, but there are some around. Usually an 80 at the various shows. Larry

1650 throttle

IP: 131.151.86.196 Posted on August 14, 2006 at 08:33:49 AM by Gary Abbott

Hi Larry, My 1650 gas throttle gradually opens up when the the throttle is place near the half position. It appears the assist spring overcomes the resistance of the linkage. Is there something i can do to tighten it up. I have performed all of the adjustments in the shop manual. Thanks Gary.

Re(1): 1650 throttle

IP: 4.249.138.32 Posted on August 14, 2006 at 10:20:41 AM by Larry from md

There is brake to hold the throttle between the fueltank and the dash on the shaft the lever is connected to. Its easy to turn the nut tighter if the hood and fuel tank is removed. You can try tightening through the top or under the loosened dash sometimes it wiil work,but often the nut is too tight.

Re(2): 1650 throttle

IP: 67.2.248.237 Posted on August 14, 2006 at 09:46:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Tighten the friction disk tighter, next to the throttle lever. Larry

Re(3): 1650 throttle

IP: 131.151.86.196 Posted on August 18, 2006 at 12:19:43 PM by Gary

Thanks for your help Larry, That friction disc was not real obvious and i just overlooked it. It's working great now.

Re(4): 1650 throttle

IP: 12.106.111.10 Posted on August 15, 2006 at 04:30:36 AM by

Larry, I have the same problem and I have the nut tight enough that the throttle is getting hard to push. Any other remedies?

Re(5): 1650 throttle

IP: 67.2.249.221 Posted on August 24, 2006 at 08:26:56 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have tried to tighten the brake and the spring still pulls it forward, try a little weaker spring. Larry

Re(5): 1650 throttle

IP: 12.106.111.10 Posted on August 25, 2006 at 04:26:23 AM by 88

Thanks Larry, I'll try that. 88

Oliver H422 plow

IP: 65.135.68.166 Posted on August 13, 2006 at 11:38:06 AM by D Hutton

I'm restoring this plow for my Bn Farmall to pull and need some info on date of manufacture, origional color and where to get parts or other related material on this plow. It's been used every year for at least the last 40 and deserves to be redone. Thanks for any help, Dave

Re(1): Oliver H422 plow

IP: 67.2.249.6 Posted on August 13, 2006 at 09:36:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have any info on that number of plow. Call Darrel Pollesch at 920-928-2392 or check with Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry

Side Shields

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on August 13, 2006 at 09:55:11 AM by Terry

Larry: Are the side shields (engine covers) for the Oliver 70 Row Crop exactly the same dimension wise as the Oliver 60 Row crop? And only real difference being a hole near the front top on either side of 70's or is there/are there other differences? What was hole for on 70's? Thanks!

Re(1): Side Shields

IP: 67.2.249.6 Posted on August 13, 2006 at 09:31:33 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they are the same. The latches are a bit different. The holes in the 70's shields, were for the brace rods for the cultivator. Larry

1750 Hydraulic problems

IP: 65.54.154.12 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 08:52:25 PM by Kenny Deno

the left bank on my hydraulic system will not hold the bucket up, When I unhook the hoses it stays up so I feel it is in the internal valves etc. Our local Dealer went out of business a few year back, Need advise. Right bank works fine

Re(1): 1750 Hydraulic problems

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 09:06:02 PM by Larry Harsin

I think your problem is in the interlocks or it could be a bad thermal relief valve. You'll have to remove the lid from the top of the hydraulic system to get at this problem. First remove the Operator's seat by removing the (4) 1/2" cap screws. Then unbolt the lid and remove it from the hydraulic unit. The first thing I would check, is to remove the thermal relief valve and inspect it. If you can feel a needle-like point sticking out of the valve, after you unscrew it from the lid, get a new one. To compare, you could remove the one on the other valve and compare the 2, then you'll understand what I mean. If your thermal relief is o.k., then, the next thing I would check is the interlock or ball-check system on the left-hand valve. This could have a bad "O" ring, or a broken spring behind a check ball, or there could possibly be a blown "O" ring on a connector sleeve where the lid goes on the unit. These are just some ideas. I hope this helps. Larry

880 fenders

IP: 208.252.179.26 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 01:39:44 PM by m miller

I have a 58 880 with 15-5-38's, I would like to go to 30" spacing. DId oliver make a fender relocation kit to put them on the inside of the axcel casting,I need about 2" more with fenders in stock location.THANKS !!!

Re(1): 880 fenders

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 08:57:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they did. I just use 3/4" pipe and cut spacers that are approx. 2" long and put them between the fender and the fender mount, on the inside. You can make them real quick with a "Chop Saw". Larry

Convert from 6 volt to 12 volt

IP: 206.132.76.194 Posted on August 11, 2006 at 05:46:59 PM by Ralf Cunningham

Larry, I am currently converting my 1955 Super 88 to 12 volt. I have read that a ballast resistor is needed between the coil and the battery. Can you just replace the stock coil with a 12 volt coil instead of the resistor or are there other factors involved. I have already changed all the light bulbs over to 12 volt.

Re(1): Convert from 6 volt to 12 volt

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 08:54:42 PM by Larry Harsin

You can do it either way. You can put a ballast resistor between the switch and the coil, or you can replace the coil with a 12 volt coil. Larry

Plow for Super 77

IP: 64.31.97.120 Posted on August 8, 2006 at 07:57:45 PM by Allen

I have a 1955 Oliver Super 77 Diesel and I was wondering what plow matches the tractor? I have an Oliver 4340 3-14 plow. Would that plow be asking to much of the tractor? Thanks!!!

Re(1): Plow for Super 77

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on August 9, 2006 at 09:47:08 PM by Larry Harsin

A S77 tractor should handle that plow. That would be my first choice for a plow for that tractor. Larry

Re(2): Plow for Super 77

IP: 64.31.99.115 Posted on August 11, 2006 at 10:58:05 AM by Allen

Could you possibly tell me what years the 4340 plow was made and what the correct color scheme for the plow is cause I would like to repaint it. Thanks!!!

Re(3): Plow for Super 77

IP: 67.2.249.198 Posted on August 12, 2006 at 08:52:27 PM by Larry Harsin

The plow frame was Meadow Green and the wheels could have been Clover White or Meadow Green, either way. They were built from the late 50's through the mid 70's. Larry

1800b gas decal locations

IP: 69.66.71.237 Posted on August 8, 2006 at 08:17:36 AM by chief

larry- am looking for proper factory specs for decal locations I've had three different "ideas" given so far. thanks, chief

Re(1): 1800b gas decal locations

IP: 67.2.240.170 Posted on August 9, 2006 at 09:44:59 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suggest that you get an Operator's Manual. It would show you decal placement. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City by emailing: fchs@fiai.net Also, you could get hold of some sales literature that would show you pictures with decal placement. You could get some literature by contacting Jerry Erickson 507-325-4745. Larry

1955 radiator removal

IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on August 6, 2006 at 08:54:28 PM by RBTXS

What is the easiest way to remove the radiator from a 1955 with a ROPS cab? I have a service manual that says to r emove the hood first, but must the cab be raised to do this? Or is there another way?

Re(1): 1955 radiator removal

IP: 67.2.249.4 Posted on August 7, 2006 at 09:17:30 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a good chance that you are going to have to tip the cab up a bit to get the hood off. It's quite a job to get the hood off. And, it's quite a job to get the radiator off of them, also. It's best if you have a chain hoist to lift the radiator out of there. It is very heavy. Other than that, no tips. It will take you some time. Larry

1465 Oliver

IP: 12.107.246.31 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 06:33:37 PM by Derrick Cooper

I am new to tractor collecting and I have purchased a 1465 Oliver deisel with a factory Oliver loader. I am having a hard time finding a grill for it, and also finding others like it for that matter so if you have any info or help thanks.

Re(1): 1465 Oliver

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 07:54:38 PM by Larry Harsin

Your 1465 Oliver was built by Fiat in Italy. Some parts are hard to find. Check with Harold Wolfe in Whitesburg TN 423-581-5557. He may be able to help you. Also, check out this website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html. You can get an Operator's Manual for your tractor from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City Ia. Email them: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Timing

IP: 70.106.252.200 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 05:17:25 PM by Matt Kane

I think I finally got my super 55 in time. Only one problem, it wont start just smokes a little. I tried a whiff of either, but nothing. What would you recommend? All of my marks on the timing were dead on. Do I have to crack open any of the injection lines? I didnt remove the pump.

Re(1): Timing

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 07:48:04 PM by Larry Harsin

If it won't start, you may have the pump timed to the number 4 cylinder instead of number 1. To check this, remove the valve cover and turn the engine, by hand, until number 4 exhaust closes and the intake just begins to open. Then you will be on Dead Center number 1. Then, back the engine up and find FP on your flywheel. Now, remove the cover on the side of the injection pump, so you can see the gear that turns the injection head. There is a marked tooth here. The mark will be just past (toward the rear of the tractor) the mark on the pump housing. If you can't find the marked tooth on the gear, this will confirm that the pump is not timed correctly to the engine. To accomplish this, remove the front timing cover for the pump drive, and turn the pump 1 revolution. Now the marked tooth should be visible so you can line up the pump drive disk mark with the pointer on the front of the pump. This should do it. Larry

1800 Gas Fuel Starvation

IP: 198.208.251.23 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 12:40:00 PM by Tom

Tractor seems to be getting just enough gas to run nice at idle. ON 1st start, it has a full float bowl and runs like a streak for a couple of minutes, but then begins a tantrum where you cannot advance the throttle at all. Any loss of vaccuum and it quits. Let it idle a minute and you can take off again. Rebuilt and thoroughly cleaned carb but problem remains. I suspected fuel pump, so I removed the brass plug over the fuel filter in carb. When I crank the engine, fuel spits out the open hole in carb. Is this an adequate test of fuel pump? Fuel bowl below tank is clean and clear, but when I removed the bowl and open the gas valve, I get a drip at best. Removing the tank cap makes no difference. Put the bowl back on and crank and the pump will suck fuel into the filter bowl. I'm thinking I'm plugged up at the tank outlet, but wondering what is considered 'normal'? Am I right in thinking fuel pump is ok but tank outlet is restricted? If I wanted to strap an auxilliary tank on top of the hood and connect direct to carb inlet to verify the problem is indeed fuel starvation, would I do any damage to the fuel pump running the tractor without fuel flowing through the pump?

Re(1): 1800 GAs Fuel Starvation

IP: 67.2.242.59 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 07:37:33 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you are on the right track with the outlet being plugged. The first thing I would do, is remove the fuel strainer assembly from the fuel tank. I think you will find foreign material in the neck of the fuel strainer. I do this on about every tractor I get, as many of these are plugged. Then, you wouldn't have to mess with the auxilliary tank. Larry

Super 55 firing order

IP: 66.138.0.22 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 08:53:11 PM by Clay Jones

Larry, I think I have some plug wires crossed. What is the firing order for a Super 55 gas? Is it the same as a 60? Thanks!

Re(1): Super 55 firing order

IP: 67.2.249.210 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 05:33:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The firing order is 1 - 2 - 4 - 3. Yes, it is the same as the 60. Larry

Brake Lining tight

IP: 66.135.79.11 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 05:46:51 PM by Gary Riecke

Larry I received the brake band and lining yesterday. When I went to install it the brake band with lining is a pretty tight fit in the brake drum. I'm concerned the drum will rub on the lining and it will get hot. Should I be concerned about this. Should I remove a little metal where the brake band contacts the brake cam so the brake band is a looser fit in the drum?

Re(1): Brake Lining tight

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 07:16:25 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to use your own judgement. The one I sent had the most lining on it. I'd be inclined to give it a try, before I did any changing. Larry

207 rake

IP: 67.55.195.154 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 05:08:57 PM by Don

Larry where can i get a manual for an oliver 207 hay rake? thanks

Re(1): 207 rake

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 07:14:05 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City. Email them: fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

88 Cont'd

IP: 136.1.1.101 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 07:15:47 AM by Jim

Larry, A couple of weeks ago I e-mailed you that I had an 88 RC I had bought with what I think is a 1650 engine in it. You replied to look above the starter for numbers. The numbers on the block above the starter are: 221320 158544A 928A Can you tell me what engine it is from that? Where would model number and other info be on the tractor other than on the engine?

Re(1): 88 Cont'd

IP: 67.2.248.80 Posted on August 3, 2006 at 07:11:04 PM by Larry Harsin

A 1650 would have a beginning of 190 instead of 221..... The 221 makes me think it may be a late 1800 or even a 1750 engine. If you are trying to figure out what engine you have, you have to look at numbers on the engine, not elsewhere on the tractor. I think you have an 1800 engine in there. Larry

oliver 66 rear rims

IP: 24.58.216.179 Posted on July 31, 2006 at 02:52:42 PM by dafooge

hello,, can you help me find the outer rear rims for an 1958 oliver crop master 66? i have a 1948 ford 8n and i found brand new one offered does somebody out there offer the same for this model?,,the calcium got to them bad and there is no repairing them.

Re(1): oliver 66 rear rims

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on July 31, 2006 at 10:03:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Miller Tire. Website: www.millertire.com Larry

Re(2): oliver 66 rear rims

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on August 2, 2006 at 06:19:43 AM by J. Ulmer

Don't know where in the USA you are, but Southwest Wheel, 800-866-3339 in Lubbock, Texas (www.southwestwheel.com) has found all sorts of rims for me on industrial and agricultural machines. They have a website specifically for ag stuff (www.farmwheel.com) They also have opened a Dallas store. They've been around servicing industry for 80 or 90 years. Good luck!

super 77

IP: 74.33.31.50 Posted on July 31, 2006 at 11:34:30 AM by jerry

I have a super 77 that was converted to 12 volt before I owned it. The problem is after it gets warm, 5 to 10 min. of running it dies. I hooked up volt meter shows 12 to 13 volts while running thein volts jump to - #s and it dies, but starts up right away and runs for about a min. thein dies? I changed the resister, coil, bypassed the gen to see if that was the problem. It had a 6volt coil I went to a 12volt? The + side of coil goes to ign. switch, - side goes to dist. is this wrong?

Re(1): super 77

IP: 67.2.248.18 Posted on July 31, 2006 at 09:55:09 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That is not right. If you have a generator on the tractor, it should be positive ground and the positive post on the coil should be hooked to the dist. wire. The negative wire should be hooked to the neg. post. Have you checked to make sure there is plenty of clean fuel getting to the carb? Larry

Re(2): super 77

IP: 74.33.31.50 Posted on August 4, 2006 at 11:36:51 PM by jerry

thank you Larry, pos. to dist, and neg to neg post. They have the resistor after the coil, the way it is now is the neg. goes to resistor and out of resistor to the dist. do I need a resister? Is the resistor only for the lights? with the coil wires backwards is this why my resistor gets so hot you can not touch it?

Re(3): super 77

IP: 67.2.248.219 Posted on August 10, 2006 at 09:32:55 PM by Larry Harsin

Point of clarification: The neg. post on the ignition coil, should be hooked to the wire coming from the ignition switch. If you are using a 12 volt coil, do not use the resistor. The resistor should be on the wire from the switch to the coil. But, if you are using a 12 volt coil, don't use the resistor. The resistor is to be used when you have a 6 volt coil and want to hook it to a 12 volt power source. Those resistors normally get hot. Larry

1954 88 RC governor

IP: 24.197.199.212 Posted on July 30, 2006 at 09:18:42 PM by Blake

Hi,i got a 88, im trying to use this tractor for some local tractor pulls, just got running but cant get any rpms out of it, i checked throttle link, and it opens all the way, but while pulling it just doesnt wind up like it should, any suggestions?...thanks Blake

Re(1): 1954 88 RC governor

IP: 67.2.249.163 Posted on July 31, 2006 at 05:37:26 AM by Larry Harsin Try running with 18 active coils between the stops on the governor spring. Larry

550 Oil Pressure

IP: 68.103.141.21 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 04:34:57 PM by Kevin

Larry; Here's what I have done. Checked pressure regulating valve and it is free, have fresh oil there and at other galley ports. Dropped pan and removed oil pump; pump will pump WD 40, and oil in a coffee can; vanes are not gaulded and spring seems to have sufficient tension. Held pan of oil under sump and had wife turn tractor over; seem to have more oil at the front of the engine than at the rear. It still will not pump through 6' spagetti line to the manual gauge. I dropped one main cap and found it in good condition and it was standard. Is there a cap on rocker shafts that could have come out? Cam bearing? I don't feel that I have a restriction; I can't figure why no pressure. I do not want to damage Ollie. Any ideas of where to go next?? Thanks in advance. Kevin

Re(1): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 11:19:57 PM by Larry Harsin

There is no cap on the rocker shafts. I don't think it is the one replaceable cam bearing (front one). I would get some plastic gauge and check the clearance on the mains. That engine is supposed to have only 12 - 18 lbs of pressure. Larry

Re(2): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 4.249.108.41 Posted on July 30, 2006 at 05:14:06 PM by Larry from md

The oil to the rockers is metered by the rear main bearing. The oil to the timeing gears is metered by the front main bearing. So check the front bearing.

1800 engine

IP: 216.170.153.148 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 03:07:54 PM by Wes

Hello, I have a '62 1800 B with a bad gas engine. Fixing the engine will be more cost than the tractor is worth. Can you tell me which engines I can use to repower this tractor, and where I could get one? I am not picky, it could run on banana peels for all I care, I just want it to work. Thank you.

Re(1): 1800 engine

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 11:11:57 PM by Larry Harsin

You could put a 1650 gas in it, or an 1850 gas, a 1750 gas engine in besides 1800 gas, of course. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Super 55

IP: 70.105.110.169 Posted on July 28, 2006 at 02:33:52 PM by Matt Kane

I had problems with my super 55 after getting it back from rebuild, where it didnt want to start without the preheater. Well The shop set the timing ahead a few degrees, and now it wont start at all. The starter was just about bad, so they rebuilt it. I was wondering what kind of job it is to time the motor? Its a diesel (550 Motor) Would you say the timing is off? It just smokes white when trying to start and thats it. Is it possible I could get a diagram, or instructions on how to time it if its not that bad of a job?

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.165 Posted on July 28, 2006 at 10:00:19 PM by Larry Harsin

It's my experience, that advancing the pump timing makes them start really hard. When you turn the flywheel to firing point on the pointer, in the timing hole, then remove the plug in the top of the timing cover by the pump, and see where the marks are on the pump drive. I am assuming this is a Bosch pump. Then, you'll have to remove the two 5/16 cap screws on the front of the pump drive, and line up the marks. That should do it. Larry

550 Oil Pressure

IP: 68.103.141.21 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 05:53:03 PM by Kevin

While Raking hay, my oil pressure light and buzzer came on. I have installed a manual gauge with no pressure recorded. Can I expect an oil pump? Is there a key in the drive gears that could have sheared? We are working on a late 550 gas.

Re(1): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 67.2.249.236 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 06:10:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm thinking that the pressure regulator on the right side of the engine (on the front) has a sticking valve. Simply unscrew the plug, squirt some penetrating oil in there, and stick a nail or something in there and push the plunger back in. If you can get it freed up with penetrating oil, remove it and clean it up. If you don't find the problem on the pressure regulator, the intake screen may have come off of the oil pump. I doubt very much that the pump drive is sheared, as you mentioned. If that pressure regulating plunger is o.k., something you could do is stick a magnet down in the oil fill hole and fish for a loose oil pump float. I'd be inclined to remove the oil pan if I didn't find a problem with the pressure regulator. Larry

Re(2): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 4.249.108.52 Posted on July 26, 2006 at 10:15:40 AM by Larry from md

Also check your oil filter its possible the restrictor and tube have been pushed into the filter. This is more common on the older tractors,but is worth a look before removeing the pan.

Re(3): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 68.103.141.21 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 04:34:57 PM by Kevin

Re(4): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 67.2.240.167 Posted on July 29, 2006 at 11:19:57 PM by Larry Harsin

Re(5): 550 Oil Pressure

IP: 4.249.108.41 Posted on July 30, 2006 at 05:14:06 PM by Larry from md

The oil to the rockers is metered by the rear main bearing. The oil to the timeing gears is metered by the front main bearing. So check the front bearing.

diesel head

IP: 162.39.50.23 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 01:40:09 PM by Derek

I have found a diesel cylinder head for sale, but there is a bit of confusion as to what tractor the head will fit. I would like to get the head to put on my 88 diesel, but the seller says the head is for a 77, 770 Super 77 and 880. From the picture I saw, I counted 25 head bolts, and here is the Oliver Part #: 107216AS. Can anyone shed some light on this situation?

Re(1): diesel head

IP: 67.2.249.236 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 06:02:09 PM by Larry Harsin

A head for a 77, 770, S77, will not fit an 88 or 880. There is a Waukesha # stamped on that head also. It is a 6 digit number. If the head is for the 88 family of Olivers, the Waukesha # begins with 19. The 77 family of Olivers the Waukesha # begins with 18. Larry

Re(2): diesel head

IP: 4.249.108.11 Posted on July 26, 2006 at 07:52:40 PM by Larry from md

I would think thats a 77 or s77 size head. The last 3 numbers 216 are useually the ci of the engine.

Engine Info

IP: 136.2.1.101 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 09:53:09 AM by Jim

Larry, The tractor pulling association I want to pull in has in their Div III rules for Olivers say , no 7 bolt main blocks, no 12 port heads and no 1600 series heads. I believe I have a 1650 engine in my 88 RC. Does those rule restrictions apply to a 1650 engine?

Re(1): Engine Info

IP: 4.249.108.52 Posted on July 25, 2006 at 10:20:19 AM by Larry from md

Yes they rule out a 1650 engine.

Re(2): Engine Info

IP: 67.2.248.54 Posted on July 26, 2006 at 09:34:41 PM by Larry Harsin

I agree. It is ruled out. Larry

2-70

IP: 216.220.248.159 Posted on July 23, 2006 at 06:44:47 PM by mike

Larry, I have a White 2 - 70 which is leaking hyd. oil into the transmission. What may be the cause of this problem?

Re(1): 2-70

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on July 24, 2006 at 06:22:22 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be a leaking pump seal or there could be a leak (a crack or a hole) in the oil pan, under the hydraulic. Larry

1555 Transmission Options

IP: 72.82.2.52 Posted on July 23, 2006 at 11:27:31 AM by arek galle

Larry- We are having trouble with our 1555 Hydra Drive Transmission-Are there other transmission options for this tractor? There looks to be alot of effort to sorting out the Hydra Drive and its problems, and was wondering if a replacement transmission upgrade with more gearing options(than 6) was a better way to spend our time and money.

Re(1): 1555 Transmission Options

IP: 67.2.248.12 Posted on July 23, 2006 at 05:25:11 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a Hydraul that could be installed. This will give you 3 speeds in each gear. I don't have one. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. If I was satisfied with the performance of the 12 speed like you have (not just 6), I'd be inclined to repair it. But if you want more speeds, Hydraul is the way to go. The Hydra-Power is more economical to repair than to repair a Hydraul.....Either way, you are going to have to remove the engine. Larry

Re(2): 1555 Transmission Options

IP: 4.249.204.56 Posted on July 23, 2006 at 08:18:43 PM by Larry from md

The 2 speed shifts about a 30% change in ground speed. The 3 speed is about 20% between speeds.

550 governor

IP: 70.187.30.152 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 04:14:06 PM by Larry

As I was putting my 550 back together I noticed that the governer yoke spins freely on the shaft. 1. Is this repairable -ie weld or braze? 2. I have a governor from a 77 that has the cast weights rather than the cut plates. Will this work in the 550 and provide the same speed control?

Re(1): 550 governor

IP: 67.2.248.171 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 09:27:04 PM by Larry Harsin

I have welded them, but you have to be sure that it is not out of balance. If you can't fix it that way, try the governor from the 77 and see if it works. It might and it might not. I'm just not sure how it would work out. Larry

880 govenor

IP: 216.114.209.138 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 01:49:47 PM by lyle

Larry, working on my 880 the govenor was a little sleepy at mid throttle so i took it apart and the washer on the shaft was wore as well as the bushing in the block so i put two washers back on but now the tractor just wants to gallop under a load plowing are there any adjustmant i can make? thanks Lyle

Re(1): 880 govenor

IP: 67.2.248.171 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 09:23:22 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a bumper screw on the front of the governor housing. Turn it in to keep the engine from surging. The adjustments for the governor is explained in the Operator's Manual. If you need an Operator's Manual, you can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Super 55 Cracked Block

IP: 70.106.254.104 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 10:16:20 AM by Matt Kane

Larry, I recently got my super 55 Rebuilt. When I was plowing with it I noticed a hairline crack behind the injection pump about 2 1/2 inches long. I took it back to the place I bought the block from and they tried to repair it with welding, but they said it still is leaking. They welded with the motor in the frame of the tractor. They think now its a pinhole in the tractor, and they have tried aluminum sealer in the coolant with no luck. If its a pinhole, would you recommend JB Weld? Or something different. Thanks, Matt

Re(1): Super 55 Cracked Block

IP: 67.2.248.171 Posted on July 22, 2006 at 09:16:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd reccommend JB Weld. It might do the job. You may have to drain it and get it cleaned up good. Then apply the JB Weld and let it "cure" for a couple of days to get it dried up good. Then, it might work. Larry

70 row crop

IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 09:46:45 PM by elijah

just got my 70 running and the brakes work fine when i press lightly but when i press pretty hard it sounds and feels like gears grinding in the tranny any advice would be appriciated

Re(1): 70 row crop

IP: 67.2.248.29 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 10:09:56 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd take the brakes apart and clean them up. It probably will need new linings. I have some if you need them, email me. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

1941 Oliver 70

IP: 207.200.116.135 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 08:35:59 PM by Tim Rees

Helping a friend on his tractor. It was a gallon low on antifreeze. Now it bubbles out the radiator overflow all the time. It is very foamy but no oil. I connected a hose to the overflow tube and put in a bucket of water and it bubbles at mid to high engine RPM. Do you think head gasket or worst broken head? Thanks in advance. Tim Rees

Re(1): 1941 Oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.29 Posted on July 21, 2006 at 10:07:27 PM by Larry Harsin

It could be a bad head gasket, a cracked cylinder liner or a cracked head. Larry

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