Timing and valve adjustment help

IP: 68.47.16.51 Posted on August 31, 2011 at 07:13:09 PM by oliver77guy

Can someone please tell me what the valve settings are on a 310 Gas? Also factory timing. Thanks in advance!

Re(1): Timing and valve adjustment help

IP: 75.104.169.134 Posted on September 1, 2011 at 07:08:58 AM by Larry Harsin

Valve adjustments are 15 & 24. The timing is 24 degrees at 2400 rpm, with the vacuum to the distributor disconnected. Larry

1650 clutch R&R

IP: 207.108.50.170 Posted on August 27, 2011 at 06:16:01 PM by Chuck Jacksom

I have two questions, first I can not get the pto shaft to slide back more than 1/2". I have not used a slide hammer yet. Second there is still a small tist tist in the engine at an idle. I adjusted a couple valves as you suggested a while back. I am wondering while I have the engine out for the clutch R&R if I should pull the head and check for a burnt valve? Any suggestions will be greatly apprieciated, Thanks, Chuck

Re(1): 1650 clutch R&R

IP: 75.104.161.217 Posted on August 28, 2011 at 05:25:19 AM by Larry Harsin

A compression test would be a good thing to do. The PTO shaft is going to have to come out. I use pry bars on the side of the clutch spider, to help pull it out. Larry

Re(2): 1650 clutch R&R

IP: 207.108.50.170 Posted on August 29, 2011 at 06:49:09 PM by Chuck Jackson

The PTO shaft splines on the engine end are bad, Do you have a good used one? Also, I have a "button clutch" so if I need a new hub is it different than standard? Thanks for your help, Chuck

Re(3): 1650 clutch R&R

IP: 75.104.161.198 Posted on August 30, 2011 at 06:55:51 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a PTO shaft. The new hub is thinner. I do have one of those. Give me a call. 712-362-2966 Larry

1800 engine running after warmed up

IP: 74.143.66.108 Posted on August 26, 2011 at 07:18:46 AM by Gerald Bates

My 1800 just started doing this but it starts fine and runs great until it is warmed up and then it starts cutting out at higher rpm. I can nurse it back if I keep the idel low and in a lower gear. Can someone give me some advice on what to look at????

Re(1): 1800 engine running after warmed up

IP: 75.104.161.217 Posted on August 27, 2011 at 04:11:01 PM by Larry Harsin

The same answer I gave this guy a few days ago will work for yours. Also, make sure the fuel caps are venting correctly. Re(1): two Olivers same problem: If this is happening in warm weather, I would suspect they are vapor locking. Try putting a heat shield in front of the fuel tank to help keep the heat off of it. Make sure the fuel lines to the carb aren't too close to the exhaust manifold. Try putting a pint of diesel fuel in each fuel tank and see if that helps with the vapor lock. On the 1750, it might help to remove the side panels so more air could move around the fuel tank. A lot of those 50 series tractors had a package that included another heat shield and insulation. Larry

550 wheels

IP: 67.142.164.27 Posted on August 25, 2011 at 02:45:29 PM by Kevin Ross

1963 550, looking for wheels for the rear. I bought the tractor back in February and knew that I needed to replace both rears. I have had no luck here locally in finding a good substitute or original replacements. My question to you is can I use the Ford 8 lug 28" or other style wheel pans on this unit and install a new set of 26 inch rims on them or will I have to go to the 28 inch rims. Thanks

Re(1): 550 wheels

IP: 75.104.182.95 Posted on August 25, 2011 at 09:03:18 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm not sure. You will have to see how they measure up and if they fit. Larry

Re(2): 550 wheels

IP: 67.142.164.32 Posted on August 27, 2011 at 09:43:00 AM by Kevin Ross

Thanks Larry, If you come up with something that will fit please let me know.

Re(3): 550 wheels

IP: 75.104.161.217 Posted on August 28, 2011 at 05:28:52 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know where you are located, but you could check with Kent Gordon in Palestine TX. 903-729-8349. Larry

Re(4): 550 wheels

IP: 184.0.10.118 Posted on September 5, 2011 at 00:02:28 AM by J.Mash

I bought some new 12-26" wheels with loops from Roberts tractor several years ago. I think they are in Camden O.H. Good people to deal with. 26" tires are still available

S-55 gear oil leak

IP: 216.57.64.25 Posted on August 25, 2011 at 01:08:59 AM by Mark

I have a S-55 that my grandfather bought new in 1958. I have had it and used it for the last 10 years and it has a total of about 1100 hours on it. Last fall it occurred to me that the transmission gear oil had probably not been changed in at least 30 years. So, I dumped the old and put in new gear oil. The old oil was very black. Now I have a fair amount of gear oil dripping out of the weep hole next to the PTO clutch cover plate on the bottom of the tractor. It is getting worse with time. This does not sound like an easy fix. Please tell me what my options are. Thanks.

Re(1): S-55 gear oil leak

IP: 75.104.182.95 Posted on August 25, 2011 at 09:01:45 PM by Larry Harsin

You can run it the way it is and keep adding oil. You should be using 80 - 90 transmission oil. The problem you describe is a common complaint with this tractor. It isn't really difficult to repair it. You will need a Shop Manual. I use 2 jack stands to hold the engine up and a floor jack to support the transmission in order to split it. This is accomplished doing a Z split, which is what the Shop Manual will show you. Do it on a level surface with a cement floor. You can get a Shop Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(2): S-55 gear oil leak

IP: 216.57.64.25 Posted on August 25, 2011 at 11:44:16 PM by Mark

Thanks for your help. I am using 80-90. So, the idea is to replace a seal on the transmission half of the tractor? Is there anything else I should look at to see if it needs replacing since I have to do the Z-split?

Re(3): S-55 gear oil leak

IP: 75.104.182.95 Posted on August 26, 2011 at 06:55:08 AM by Larry Harsin

If everything else is o.k., all you have to do is replace the seals and O rings. Larry

oliver 550 steering misalignment

IP: 99.135.10.5 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 03:51:20 PM by David

Hello, After my father-in-law mowed a field the front wheels were aimed outward more than usual. I looked for a bent part but found nothing wrong. He said he had hit a log in tall grass. I did not see any damage and I corrected the tracking by twisting the threaded tie rod. Today my daughter mowed and the wheels again went out of alignment a few inches with both wheels steering outward about 3 inches off as before. Is this a internal steering gearbox damage issue? It does have power steering by the way.

Re(1): oliver 550 steering misalignment

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on August 24, 2011 at 07:02:28 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have slippage on one of the spindles on the front wheels. Check for a broken weld on the bottom of the spindle

1750 Cockshutt pto

IP: 68.68.237.190 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 02:15:55 PM by Vinecnt

My family recently bought a 1750 Cockshutt. A few days later we hooked it up to our mowing machine and the pto would not engage we unhooked and saw the pto was moving but it did not have and power to turn anything but the spline. Help on this subject would be much appreciated. Thanks

Re(1): 1750 Cockshutt pto

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on August 24, 2011 at 07:00:16 AM by Larry Harsin

It either has a bad PTO clutch (probably) or if the hydraulic doesn't work, the drive to the hydraulic unit is bad. Larry

1800 steering leak

IP: 69.42.237.170 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 09:08:00 AM by john

I just purchase a 1963, 1800 Oliver. The tractor has been sitting for about 5 years. It's gas, when I got it started up oil immediately began to FLOW out of the top of the steering column. I cannot see any leaks anywhere else on the steering assembly. What is my next move?

Re(1): 1800 steering leak

IP: 69.72.27.145 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 11:33:49 AM by Larry from MD

The top seal is leaking and the oil is pushed out the steering colum.Once they start leaking it won't stay fixed evan if new stuff is put in. The best fix is to instal a char-lin style steering valve under the dash,You can buy kits to do this or if you are handy makeing stuff you can buy just a valve and make or reuse the rest yourself.The first one you do is usually the hardest.

Re(2): 1800 steering leak

IP: 69.42.237.170 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 01:17:57 PM by john

OK. Is this something I can get from you with instructions to install?

Re(3): 1800 steering leak

IP: 69.72.27.64 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 05:20:02 PM by Larry from MD

No i am not larry Harsin.

Re(4): 1800 steering leak

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on August 24, 2011 at 06:56:56 AM by Larry Harsin

For a kit or a seal, contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. Larry

Oliver 550 gas

IP: 72.21.232.23 Posted on August 20, 2011 at 05:18:28 PM by Mike

Larry, On 7/31 I sent you an e-mail about my 550 stalling out after a couple of hours of operation. You suggested that I might be getting vapor lock and you nailed it! I put insulation around the gas line like you suggested and the tractor now runs great. I ran into another guy with a 550 with the same problem and passed the tip on to him. Thanks!

Re(1): Oliver 550 gas

IP: 75.105.54.124 Posted on August 21, 2011 at 05:39:22 PM by Larry Harsin

Good! They get so hot, that that gasoline boils in the lines and the fuel tank. I know a guy who had this happen once when he was picking corn. His tractor stopped and he removed the gas cap and the gas flew out of the tank and scalded his arms etc. Larry

1365-1370

IP: 99.241.102.112 Posted on August 20, 2011 at 01:47:28 PM by Richard W.

I was at a new/used tractor dealer in western Quebec Canada, there were 2 Olivers for sale a 1365 and a 1370, Just for curiousities sake what is the difference between the two ?

Re(1): 1365-1370

IP: 75.105.54.124 Posted on August 21, 2011 at 05:36:24 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1370 is the Canadian version of the 1365. Larry

steering arm

IP: 71.7.116.63 Posted on August 20, 2011 at 11:10:45 AM by Ron

Larry, I broke the steering arm on my 1750. I have the new part but am having trouble on pressing it onto the steering shaft as we just are lifting the steering cylinder. I can't figure out on how to hold the cylinder in place while we jack the steering arm and associated casting into place. I have also tried to spread the collar on the steering arm so it will go on easier, but I dont want to break it. Suggestions?

Re(1): steering arm

IP: 69.72.27.225 Posted on August 20, 2011 at 11:28:38 AM by Larry from MD

Sometimes its just hard to get them lined up right.You can remove the shaft from the cylinder put the bottem stuff up there then put the center of the cylinder back in from the top useing the puller bolt.

Re(2): steering arm

IP: 75.105.54.124 Posted on August 21, 2011 at 05:31:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I normally do it the way Larry from MD says above. Larry

Re(3): steering arm

IP: 208.126.218.206 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 10:00:37 AM by Ron

Larry, thanks for the information. I thought of something like this over the weekend - bolt the bottom assembly on and then work with the cylinder/shaft from the top. I'm not quite sure how to approach this. Do you remove the radiator and hoses to get a bit more room in there to pull the cylinder and/or shaft? Do you remove the rotating shaft from the hydraulic cylinder and finally I don't know what you mean by 'puller bolt". Can you give a bit more information?

Re(4): steering arm

IP: 69.72.27.145 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 11:39:27 AM by Larry from MD

Yes remove the radiator and the cap held by the 2 bolts.The puller bolt is under that,back out the bolt and pull the center gear out.While you are in there replace the quadring seal on that center gear.

1900 oliver trans-remote

IP: 208.83.194.141 Posted on August 19, 2011 at 10:35:39 PM by paul

i have 3 things going on. i am getting hydraulic oil in my trans(just a little). my remote lifts but sometimes i have to idle the tractor to get it to go down. sometimes my tranny pops out of 4th and some other gears. it seems to hold better if i jiggle it in. any sugestions before i tear it down?

Re(1): 1900 oliver trans-remote

IP: 75.105.54.124 Posted on August 21, 2011 at 05:29:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The hydraulic oil in the rear end, is probably coming from around the draft control rod. This is an easy fix with a new seal. You have a pressure backup in the hydraulic. You have to install a by-pass to overcome having to idle it down to get it to go down. As far as the transmission is concerned, there are numerous possibilities. You will have to remove the lid on the transmission and see if you can see what is going on there. Larry

Re(2): 1900 oliver trans-remote

IP: 69.72.27.147 Posted on August 21, 2011 at 05:47:35 PM by Larry from MD

Try pushing the 3 point lever all the way forward and see if hydrolics work.

two Olivers same problem

IP: 50.48.61.75 Posted on August 17, 2011 at 01:26:06 PM by Steve Nelson

I have a 880 gas and 1750 gas. They both will run great then sputter and quit. If I wait awhile, they will usually go again. If I take the screw off the bowl, the expected amount of gas doesn't come out. I have had it looked at - cleaned carborator, gas line, points and coil checked. Tried various treatments. This is very frustating because both tractors have the same symptoms and it is interfering with my work that needs to get done on my farm. Hope you can help. Thank you, Steve

Re(1): two Olivers same problem

IP: 75.105.54.194 Posted on August 17, 2011 at 08:37:32 PM by Larry Harsin

If this is happening in warm weather, I would suspect they are vapor locking. Try putting a heat shield in front of the fuel tank to help keep the heat off of it. Make sure the fuel lines to the carb aren't too close to the exhaust manifold. Try putting a pint of diesel fuel in each fuel tank and see if that helps with the vapor lock. On the 1750, it might help to remove the side panels so more air could move around the fuel tank. A lot of those 50 series tractors had a package that included another heat shield and insulation. Larry

Re(2): two Olivers same problem

IP: 98.168.213.200 Posted on August 18, 2011 at 05:48:09 PM by Larry K

On our 1650 gas we put a folded section of aluminum between the engine and the full tank to function as a heat shield. Also check the fuel tank caps to make sure they are properly vented. Without the vent the tank will be under a vacuum after so much fuel is used. The vacuum will also increase the possibility of vapor lock.

Re(3): two Olivers same problem

IP: 207.28.249.114 Posted on August 23, 2011 at 03:36:46 PM by Mark Jurgensen

One other thing to check: Bugs such as Japanese Beetles could be making a home in your fuel filler nozzle on your supply tank...when you go to fill the tank on your tractor, in they go!!! (Has happened to my dad)

1650 - Hydraul Shift

IP: 173.13.15.198 Posted on August 15, 2011 at 02:00:16 PM by DOUG

I recently acquired a 1650 diesel. Sometimes the hydraul shift works fine, and sometimes it won't engage in low range unless I push the clutch in. I have changed the fluid, and changed the filter twice. What would cause this?

Re(1): 1650 - Hydraul Shift

IP: 75.104.182.169 Posted on August 16, 2011 at 07:20:13 AM by Larry Harsin

I am thinking it has a worn sprag clutch that will have to be replaced. You can get one from AGCO. Larry

Super 55 Carburetor

IP: 71.146.136.213 Posted on August 15, 2011 at 09:39:40 AM by Karl

I have a Super 55 carburetor with a cast iron upper body and an aluminum bowl and choke. It needs to be rebuilt but I can't figure out what parts to order. To me it looks similar to Zenith carburetors and nothing like a Marvel-Schebler TSX-603. There is a number on the upper casting C-834. Can you identify? Is that a Carter part number?

Re(1): Super 55 Carburetor

IP: 69.72.27.84 Posted on August 15, 2011 at 11:37:01 AM by Larry from MD

There is a tsxu 834 listed on the carb site.They have listed zenith repair parts for it,but at the bottem it has marvel/schebler. Most zenith parts have a c prefex letter.Site is roberts carburators.

Re(2): Super 55 Carburetor

IP: 75.104.182.169 Posted on August 16, 2011 at 07:18:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I feel that it could very well be a Carter. I get parts needle and seat and bowl gaskets from CaseIH. The Super C Farmall used that carb also. Larry

1650 hard starting

IP: 64.141.34.182 Posted on August 13, 2011 at 10:03:31 PM by Wes

Just bought a 1965 model 1650 diesel. It has been sitting for about 2 or 3 years. batteries were shot but started up with a pull of 20 feet or so. Oil pressure is 30 at idle better part of 40 at pto speed.Installed 2 new 1000 ca batteries, it will hot start, but cold starting it want either to go.also hydrolics are slow at idle. Any advise?

Re(1): 1650 hard starting

IP: 69.72.27.246 Posted on August 14, 2011 at 07:08:50 AM by Larry from MD

At idle most all the hydrolic fluid goes to the steering so not much is left for hydrolics, this IS normal.Needing either to start cold is commom, alittle valve wear and the compression is lower and they need a shot to get going.

Re(2): 1650 hard starting

IP: 75.104.182.169 Posted on August 14, 2011 at 09:44:10 PM by Larry Harsin

You have a tired tractor with a weak hydraulic. It more than likely needs an overhaul. Larry

Re(3): 1650 hard starting

IP: 64.141.34.182 Posted on August 15, 2011 at 10:22:39 PM by Wes

1550 oliver

IP: 216.96.42.249 Posted on August 13, 2011 at 10:35:27 AM by Johnny

I have a Oliver 1550 diesel can't seem to find any thing about them, I need a place to buy parts or a parts catalog. I love my Oliver.

Re(1): 1550 oliver

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 13, 2011 at 08:15:42 PM by Larry Harsin

For parts, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. For an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual or a Parts Manual, call the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. They sell them. Larry

Oliver 66 Clutch Removal

IP: 142.68.165.43 Posted on August 8, 2011 at 06:17:25 PM by Evan Langille

To remove the clutch from my oliver, do I need to remove the engine to get it out? How would I go about removing the clutch?

Re(1): Oliver 66 Clutch Removal

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 07:50:33 AM by Larry Harsin

You do not have to remove the engine. First thing you do is remove the PTO drive shaft assembly from the rear end of the tractor. Then, uncouple the clutch shaft at the coupling on the front of the transmission and slide it forward. Then, unbolt the bell housing and you can access the clutch. Larry

1650 diesel quit and won't start

IP: 69.11.119.161 Posted on August 8, 2011 at 02:43:09 PM by Owen Scott

I have a 1650 (####shutt, but should be same guts?) that just quit while driving down a dirt road. When it quit it sounded like a jake brake going on a big semi. Since then we haven't been able to start it. Initial thought was that a timing gear broke a tooth or something to that effect so we took the front off, everything looks ok...took valve cover off all rockers were moving so nothing broken inside, (can turn the motor front to to flywheel with a socket so crank is still intact too?), fuel flows through whole system - I should note that the fuel transfer pump is bypassed (was like that when we got it) and it has always run fine. Fuel squirts out of injector lines when separated top and/or bottom and cranking over. Will these IP's slip timing internally and still indicate correctly through the timing window?? I should note we pulled the IP driveshaft and it is undamaged - groove on end is ok. Any thoughts appreciated! Owen & Neil

Re(1): 1650 diesel quit and won't start

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 07:47:33 AM by Larry Harsin

Turning the motor front with a socket - make sure the flywheel is turning also. Apparently, somehow it has gotten out of time. Don't know just what happened. You will just have to keep digging till you find what failed. Something came loose somewhere. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel quit and won't start

IP: 69.11.119.161 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 02:26:33 PM by Owen Scott

Thanks for the reply. Flywheel is turning also and when I position to 2deg BDTC the IP shows in time when I look through the timing window. But yes it still appears to be out of time somehow. Looks like removing the IP will be our next step. Regards, Owen

Re(3): 1650 diesel quit and won't start

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 10, 2011 at 07:28:07 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I don't have one. Call Central Fuel Injection 712-362-4200. Larry

Oliver 77 Seat

IP: 206.15.84.66 Posted on August 8, 2011 at 12:49:09 PM by Karl

Larry--I'm rebuilding a 1949 Standard 77 Seat (easy-ride pan type) and my parts book diagram is for an entirely different type of seat (no rubber springs, padded seat and back, etc.). Is there somewhere on-line that I can find an exploded view diagram of such a seat assembly, with the two rubber springs and the suspension mechanism and bushings identifiable? It would help a lot in re-assembling as the rebuild kit I got from Korves doesn't include a diagram either. Thanks. Karl

Re(1): Oliver 77 Seat

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 07:42:50 AM by Larry Harsin

You must have the earliest parts book, because the later parts books would have that diagram. You can get a newer parts book from the museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. Larry

Oliver 70 tiptoe steel wheels

IP: 74.198.150.206 Posted on August 7, 2011 at 07:45:55 PM by Diana Thiessen

I am wondering if I can put 70 tiptoe wheels on a 60. Both are row crops. Can you modify them to make it fit. Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Oliver 70 tiptoe steel wheels

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 07:39:39 AM by Larry Harsin

No. They won't fix. I doubt if you can modify them. The 60 wheels are smaller and don't stand as high. Larry

1650 diesel restoration

IP: 69.247.175.235 Posted on August 7, 2011 at 01:39:03 PM by Justin Gravitt

Hi I have been asking questions for a couple of weeks on this site and want to thank all who have helped. I have just found that the injector pump and injectors on the tractor needed rebuilt, after this was done the tractor seems better but still smokes and now excess fuel is coming out the exhaust and 2 of the energy cells are not getting very hot. My intent is to rebuild the engine in the frame and while I have it apart paint the tractor my questions are who do you feel has the best rebuild kit for the engine and what is a good quility paint to use (have heard agco is good). I plan on power washing the tractor with cleaner and sanding/scuffing the old paint, will this technique work I am not trying to make a show tractor just a nice looking machine. Thank You for all the assistance.

Re(1): 1650 diesel restoration

IP: 75.104.169.225 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 07:37:36 AM by Larry Harsin

The last rebuild kit that I used, I bought at my AGCO Dealer and it was from Hy-Capacity. It sounds like you have a tired engine that needs an overhaul. AGCO is good paint, I've used a lot of it. Also, Van Sickle paint is good and it isn't as expensive. www.vansicklepaint.com One thing, I still use AGCO's Clover White. I haven't found another that will suit me. If you are talking sand blasting, be careful not to get sand in your other parts. Larry

Re(2): 1650 diesel restoration

IP: 76.3.47.197 Posted on August 9, 2011 at 08:33:45 AM by Justin Gravitt

Thanks for the info I am not planning on sandblasting just powerwashing and using a scuff pad on the good paint and feathing in the areas that the paint has worn off I also was only planning on primering only the parts that are down to bare metal unless someone has better ideas. Thank You

1555 hydraulics

IP: 198.51.125.3 Posted on August 5, 2011 at 10:57:07 AM by Dean Freschly

Hi Larry, What a terrific website-well done-many thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge! I have a 1555 that we purchased new in 1974. It currently has 3900 hours. We use it mainly for planting corn, soybeans and wheat on our southern Indiana farm and have been using the same planters for the past several years. Near the middle of the spring planting season the hydraulic control levers began to kick out of the detent position before the planter would lift off the ground. I checked the planter lifting mechanism for binding but found none and we had the same problem with both the corn and bean planters so I'm fairly certain it is not a planter problem. I replaced the 3.5 in dia, cylinder on the corn planter with a 4 in. dia. and that helped some but it still kicks off too soon. In the past we've always used the left hand valve to control planter lift and the right hand for marker operation so I also tried switching them and that didn't help either. My I&T shop manual does not indicate a solution for this problem in the trouble shooting section but it does show a picture (Figure O159B) of the detent mechanism (pistons and springs). Do you think these could be the cause of my problem? I'd greatly appreciate any insight you can give me on this. Thanks, Dean Freschly

Re(1): 1555 hydraulics

IP: 69.72.27.79 Posted on August 5, 2011 at 06:54:29 PM by Larry from MD

One thing that can screw things up is backpreasure from the return hose. On my planter i have to lower the 3 point all the way down or chain it up and push the lever all the way forward.Fluid returning from the remotes goes to the 3 point.

Re(2): 1555 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.182.86 Posted on August 6, 2011 at 07:48:12 AM by Larry Harsin

That sounds like something to check. I don't have any suggestions. I think that is a "hands on" fix. Study it and see what you can do. Larry

Re(3): 1555 hydraulics

IP: 198.51.125.3 Posted on August 8, 2011 at 08:30:22 AM by Dean Freschly

Thanks for the replies. I'll keep digging.

Update:1850 Perkins front end question...

IP: 99.196.0.57 Posted on August 4, 2011 at 11:16:35 AM by Jeff

Hello Larry, just thought I would let you know that thanks to your assistance I have fixed my problem. I jacked the motor up and was able to get the bolt threaded back into the front motor stabilizer, boy that bolt is kind of a son-of-a-gun to get at, they certainly don't give you much room to work with! I did find I had to put a shim in, to line the Hydra-power up better, but I wouldn't have noticed that if you had not mentioned it, for which I am VERY greatful! I would be willing to bet you saved me a broken coupler chain, and most likely other problems as well. Thank you VERY kindly for all your wisdom and kindness in helping me with this situation. God bless, and hope everything is going great for you and yours. Best wishes. Just thought I would add this bit of information, in case it might help someone else in the future, that by jacking up the motor I did not have to mess with the support bolts for the "wishbone", which saved me some time and extra labor. With my back motor mount bolts all tight and by CAREFULLY jacking the front of the motor up just a bit, it gave me enough room to be able to add a shim, and get the bolt threaded into the front motor stabalizer as well. I hope this might be of some help to someone else, as you helped me out IMMENSLY! Thanks again Larry! Jeff

Re(2): Update:1850 Perkins front end question...

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 5, 2011 at 09:07:09 AM by Larry Harsin

Thank you for the complements! Our plan with this page of our website, is to help Oliver People whenever we can. We keep trying to pass our knowledge along. We enjoy hearing from everyone. Larry and Sandra

720 baler timing

IP: 96.60.201.116 Posted on August 4, 2011 at 09:03:56 AM by Tom

Using a friend's 720 wire tie baler and the chain that runs plunger came off worn sprocket, I put it back on, but timing was off. Took master link out to get chain off, but not sure how to set timing. With plunger at highest point (where it wants to rest on its own), where should the pusher?? in the chute be? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 720 baler timing

IP: 96.60.201.116 Posted on August 4, 2011 at 09:32:40 AM by Tom

Sorry, my terminology is off. the chain behind the flywheel is what came off. It runs the knife? what pulls the hay into the chute. Then the plunger is what pushes it down the chute. So, if knife it at rest at high point, where should plunger be? Thanks!

Re(2): 720 baler timing

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 5, 2011 at 09:01:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know the answer to this. Call the museum in Charles City and get an Operator's Manual for this baler. It will tell you all of this information. 641-228-1099. Larry

1850 Perkins front end question.

IP: 75.105.64.53 Posted on August 2, 2011 at 11:41:58 PM by Jeff

Hello Larry, I have a question I'm hoping you can answer. I have a '66 1850 Perkins with the adjustable wide front end, I was greasing it today and found a loose bolt. I will do my best to explain, I will use the terms that are in my shop/service manual, at the back of the "stay rod" (or what I call the wishbone) there is a "support", and there are 3 bolts in a triangle pattern that bolt the "support" to the front frame, the bolt in question that is loose is in between the 2 front bolts of this "support". My shop/service manual does not show this bolt, or what it is for, so it's of no help to me. My question is do you know what this bolt is for? It appears to either go up into the engine block, or at least underneath it, just behind the front crankshaft pulley. The bolt is just sitting in there and I have been unsuccessful at threading it back up into whatever it came out of. It's a pretty good sized bolt, and I also have no way of looking up in where it is to see if it's lined up, where it should go, or anything of that nature, but the threads do seem to be ok from what I can see. I find myself VERY perplexed and unsure of how to proceed. Could this cause major problems, and is it a major task to take that support apart so I can try to get the bolt back in? I am a disabled farmer so any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Re(1): 1850 Perkins front end question.

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 09:19:36 AM by Larry Harsin

That loose bolt is for the front engine support. Remove the bolt and check the threads and replace if necessary. Then tighten it, and check the chain coupling for alignment between the hydra power and the transmission. If it is out of line, you may have to put shims between the front support and the tractor frame. Check the 2 rear mount bolts, too. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Perkins front end question.

IP: 99.196.0.57 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 06:49:06 PM by Jeff

Thank you VERY much Larry, I really appreciate the information,and will follow your advice. I do have one last question, should that bolt be able to come out without removing the support bolts, or do I have to loosen, or remove, them to get it out to check the threads? Thanks again, and hope all is well and great with you. Best wishes, Jeff

Re(3): 1850 Perkins front end question.

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 09:59:15 PM by Larry Harsin

I think you will have to remove all three bolts. I'd jack the tractor up, so that it is not sitting on the front end. Larry

1655 issues

IP: 199.150.177.28 Posted on August 1, 2011 at 12:52:36 PM by Gleanerguy

Well, I took my priority valve apart & cleaned it up and now my power steering works good. Thanks Larry(s)!

On a seperate issue, the engine has been running rough for about the past week. I cleaned the sediment bowl out and put in a new fuel filter, but that didn't make any difference. The tractor starts instantly, has good oil pressure, doesn't overheat, but runs rough. A little history on the tractor. It was completely overhauled about 500 hours ago. Last fall the injector pump was leaking fuel out by the throttle rod, so I took it off and had it completely rebuilt ($532.00 worth). The diesel shop said the governor ring was chewed up. Where should I start on trying to figure why it is running rough?

Re(1): 1655 issues

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 09:13:28 AM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is check the valve adjustments. Next, I would do is remove the exhaust manifold and check for a cylinder not burning fuel like it should. If you find something here, I would remove that injector and have it repaired or replaced. Larry

Re(2): 1655 issues

IP: 199.150.177.28 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 12:35:28 PM by Gleanerguy

This spring, after the tractor sat all winter, I took the injector pump off and had it totally rebuilt. When I took the pump off it was easiest to take the manifold off and just take all the lines off as one unit, rather than try to seperate them. I didn't notice any excess fuel at that time. The tractor ran good until just a couple of weeks ago. I don't know how the valves would get out of adjustment as it was 5 years ago or more since I overhauled the tractor. Do you think I could have a burnt valve or maybe a bad injector?

Re(3): 1655 issues

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 10:02:31 PM by Larry Harsin

You could have a bad injector. You could have a broken valve spring. You could have a push rod that has jumped out of a socket on the rocker arm. There are a lot of possibilities here. Check it out. Larry

70 Overheating

IP: 173.13.14.21 Posted on August 1, 2011 at 11:06:22 AM by Bill Little

I have a recently restored 70 that is having a problem with overheating. I got the tractor as a basketcase so there isn't much I haven't had apart. The block is clean, new water pump, and radiator was professionally cleaned and repaired. Any other ideas would be greatly appriciated.

Re(1): 70 Overheating

IP: 75.104.183.143 Posted on August 3, 2011 at 09:10:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Make sure the fan belt is working properly. Is the radiator shroud in place? Larry

Re(2): 70 Overheating

IP: 173.13.14.21 Posted on August 22, 2011 at 11:22:47 AM by Bill Little

Everything is put together correctly, brand new belt tensioned to spec.

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