"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Dec., 2001 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Dec., 2001 Archives
super55 clicking
Posted by mike on 1/6/2002 at 15:49:34 IP: 152.163.205.53
Hi Larry I have a 1956 super 55 that is making a clicking noise in the rear end. It only does this when you put a load on it. Its like the right rear wheel is catching. What is causing this and how much to fix. Thanks for any replies.
Re: super55 clicking
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/6/2002 at 17:48:25 IP: 209.163.7.15
My guess is that you have a bad axle bearing. It could be something else. If it is a bearing, you might get by for $100. I'd take the lid off and have a look and go from there. Let me know what you find. Larry.............
New Toy
Posted by W. Hess on 1/5/2002 at 17:22:05 IP: 209.143.29.173
Hi Larry,You were right.Arm was broken off of fuel pump on 1655.Got it running this evening.She runs great.Now,got any idea what year it is? Serial number 228 915-490. Thanks, Wayne
Re: New Toy
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/6/2002 at 06:37:48 IP: 209.163.7.22
Your 1655 is a 1971. Glad to hear you found your other problem. Larry............
77 Diesel ID plate
Posted by Dan on 1/5/2002 at 16:02:13 IP: 207.14.76.20
My father and I are in the beginning stages of restoring our 1951 Oliver 77 standard Diesel s/n DSL273068C77E. One piece of trivia has us scratching our heads, the serial number plate is supposed to be under the dash in '51 but ours is located on the right side of the transmission? Is this something unique to the diesels? Thanks in advance!.....DAN
Re: 77 Diesel ID plate
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/6/2002 at 06:34:30 IP: 209.163.7.22
No. It isn't. You tractor was one of the last ones made before they switched to placing them on the dash. I have several examples of that here. It isn't anything unique. Larry.........
supper 55
Posted by Don on 1/5/2002 at 07:22:40 IP: 216.86.83.228
Do you tune up specs? it is a 1956
Re: supper 55
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/6/2002 at 06:22:12 IP: 209.163.7.69
Valve clearances are 10 on the intake and 18 on the exhaust. Point gap is .022. Spark plug gap is .025. Static timing is about 2 degrees before Top Dead Center. Larry................
Lube Specs.
Posted by W. Hess on 1/4/2002 at 16:15:07 IP: 205.212.116.239 Hi Larry, In regard to the 1655 that I had the question on earlier. Lubricant specifications have changed since this manual was printed,and some lubricants are no longer available.What have you found to be suitable for trans. and final drive, hydraulic system and hydrul-shift. This is a wonderful site. Thanks Wayne
Re: Lube Specs.
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/4/2002 at 22:33:12 IP: 209.163.7.67
For the trans. and differential, I reccommend 80-90 transmission grease. For the hydraulic, I use number 10 non-foaming hydraulic oil. For the hydraul use Mercon ATF. Thank you for the compliments to our website. Larry................
806 International Site
Posted by kenny on 1/1/2002 at 23:15:42 IP: 151.205.240.237
i have gotten a lot of good info from here and need a little more. we pull with a guy with a 560 international and we think that it has an 806 motor. I was wondering if you could ploint me in the right direction an international site a lot like this one. thanks again
Re: 806 International Site
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/3/2002 at 06:15:17 IP: 209.163.7.67
We know of no other site like this one. Larry
Re: 806 International Site
Posted by Larry on 1/3/2002 at 12:17:16 IP: 208.10.124.208
I would try yesterdaystractors they have boards on IH and tractor pulling.
1600 Fuel Stop
Posted by Stan Cheek on 1/1/2002 at 12:14:01 IP: 216.78.158.107
Larry, I can't stop the engine on my 1600 diesel because the fuel stop doesn't work. Adjusting the stops on the fuel injection pump hasn't fixed the problem. I've even disconnected the fuel stop cable and moved the lever by hand with no luck. The only way to stop the engine is to put the tractor into high gear and release the clutch with the brakes set. Any suggestions? Stan
Re: 1600 Fuel Stop
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/1/2002 at 18:12:55 IP: 209.163.7.87
There is something that has come unhooked in your pump housing. Call your pump repair shop. They may be able to fix it without having to take it off the tractor. Otherwise, you will have to take it off and take it to them. Larry.............
Re: 1600 Fuel Stop
Posted by Stan Cheek on 1/3/2002 at 19:20:45 IP: 66.20.126.167
Thanks Larry.
1655 D
Posted by Wayne E. Hess on 12/30/2001 at 20:12:36 IP: 209.143.29.170
Just bought a 1655 D that shows 3200 hrs. I bought it from the second owner and it will not run. He said that he can manually prime the fuel system and start the tractor but it will die and the fuel filters will be dry. Also, after reading several of these posts, the quality of these engines has me nervous; would it be wise to overhaul the engine before something major happens? I have farmed for 30 years but this is the first Oliver for me. Your insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Wayne
Re: 1655 D
Posted by Larry on 12/31/2001 at 12:06:47 IP: 208.10.124.173
If the filters are dry make sure the fuel is running out of the tank.If you can pump the external handel on the fuel pump and make it run the internal arm on that pump maybe broke off.
Re: 1655 D
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/30/2001 at 20:43:17 IP: 209.163.7.43
Don't be too concerned about this particular engine. These 1655 engines have held up quite well. It sounds to me like there is a problem with the fuel system. I'm assuming that your tractor has the lift pump on the right side to furnish fuel to the injection pump. This lift pump may have to be replaced. It may have a bad check valve. If everything checks out up to the injection pump, you may have to remove the injection pump and have it checked. The governor ring may be breaking up in the pump. If this engine has 3200 hrs. on it, and you can get it running decent, I would at least check the rod and main bearings and possibly replace them. Good Luck! Larry......
Oliver 1750 vibration
Posted by M kuhns on 12/30/2001 at 18:29:49 IP: 65.206.79.109
I have an Oliver 1750 with a vibration in under a load. It has in a 1950 T engine with about 130 Hp. When i'm starting out the vibration isn't present, but when i start giving it throttle it gets that bad that the fenders really start vibrating and shaking. By the time I get up to speed and start ROLLING along it goes away. The vibration isn't there when the tractor is sitting still. It also does it in all gears that i know of. The drive chain and sprockets are not misaligned. I'm not sure what to start looking at. Any help would be appreciated
Re: Oliver 1750 vibration
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/30/2001 at 20:34:38 IP: 209.163.7.43
Maybe the harmonic balancer on the front of the engine is getting bad. Check it to see if it is loose or anything. I'd get a new one and put it on. Larry..........
Re: Oliver 1750 vibration
Posted by m kuhns on 1/1/2002 at 17:54:11 IP: 65.206.78.130
The vibration ####er is not loose and the engine runs smooth. I'm not sure but I think it is smoething in the transmission or torque or in the drivetrain somewhere
Re: Oliver 1750 vibration
Posted by Shep on 1/2/2002 at 10:31:27 IP: 216.76.116.104
Had this same problem with an 1855 one time, shaking badly under load. Check your bolts or even the bolt holes in the "flex plate" between the engine and the three speed or hydra power. That flex plate is known for getting the bolts loose and making the holes bigger and creating a vibration, or even cracking if the shake gets bad enough. It does not take much movement at that point to create a shake that will knock you off the seat. The bolts on the one side should be the same ones that hold the starter motor on. If that is not it look around the bell housing and the three speed for loose bolts or cracks in the housings. That may not be your problem, but you can check.. Just my 2 cents....
Re: Oliver 1750 vibration Posted by Don on 1/1/2002 at 21:42:23 IP: 64.12.101.168
My 1600 had the same problem one summer when we used it on the square baler for a while. I'm not sure how exactly it happened, but it would be really jerky for a little while then smooth off. about 2 weeks after having it off the baler it went away. Normally we use a different tractor but it ran over a hay hook and was down for a week.
Oliver 770
Posted by Bill on 12/29/2001 at 20:56:54 IP: 209.87.232.2
Larry My 770 needs new sleeves and pistons. Broke a ring. I was reading your site and saw a post from Oct. and you said you would not use 3.75 pistons on a 77. I would like to know if you feel the same for the 770. I saw Korves advertising the m&w 3.75 for the 770. My tractor is a wheatland gas, and it is for working, not tractor pulling. So I am wondering how the 3.75 would change the power and would the tourque still be the same or better. Also I am looking for a good Oliver emblem for the front, in red, yr.1959 model, and a set of links that join the lift arms to the rockshaft for the 77/88's. Your site is very helpfull, Thanks Alot Bill
Re: Oliver 770
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/30/2001 at 08:28:51 IP: 209.163.7.58
I havn't used 3.75 in that engine. I have used 3 5/8 which is the same as an 1550 with good results. The 3 5/8 gave the 770 more power. For the emblem, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. sometimes he comes up with one, they are hard to find. 800-320-6224. I don't have the links either. Ask Tom about them also. You may have to fabricate some of your own. Larry....
What is "HC" ??
Posted by Greg S. on 12/29/2001 at 19:09:46 IP: 65.224.244.186
I have a 1961 550 HC gas. What does the "HC" stand for?
Re: What is " HC"
Posted by Bill on 12/29/2001 at 21:03:23 IP: 209.87.232.2
Greg S HC stands for high compression .
Loader on an 88
Posted by Roy Z. on 12/29/2001 at 11:40:04 IP: 209.83.63.8
Hi Larry, your website is great, I have a 1952 Row Crop 88 with a factory adjustable wide front (no power steering), and series 3 hydraulics, (dual valve). My question is: Would this tractor handle a loader very well? Would a loader be too heavy for the front end? Would I be able to run it off the series 3 hydraulics? It would mostly be light work that I'm doing with it, clearing snow and some dirt moving. Again, your website is great. Thanks, Roy Z.
Re: Loader on an 88
Posted by Don on 12/29/2001 at 13:20:47 IP: 152.163.197.203
Having a loader on a tractor w/out power steering can really be hard. Snow might not be too bad, but a heavy bucket of dirt on it and you will have a very hard time steering. You might be better off converting it to power steering before you put a loader on it.
Re: Loader on an 88
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/29/2001 at 19:00:49 IP: 209.163.7.15
The wide front is strong enough for a loader and the hydraulic system will handle a loader well. For just light jobs you can get by. I think you'd be happy with a loader on your 88. Thanks for the compliments! Larry.............
Oliver 66 frame numbers
Posted by Mitch on 12/26/2001 at 12:03:29 IP: 198.152.12.70
Larry I have what i thought was a 66 frame and rearend when i got to looking at it it had an IL500B on the banna boot and rearend not L500B can you explain?? also i am looking for a torque for a 770 can you help me out?? Thanks Mitch
Re: Oliver 66 frame numbers
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 12/26/2001 at 17:30:02 IP: 208.10.124.159
That number is correct for a 66.When oliver started getting bigger they added a 1 or a 2 in front of the casting numbers.I was told years ago the first numbers along with the letter, told which of the factories made a part.
Re: Oliver 66 frame numbers
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/26/2001 at 23:06:59 IP: 209.163.7.99
I agree with Larry Wolfe about the numbers on your 66 frame. I believe they were all made at Charles City but the numbers denote the age of the casting. I have the gear housing the castings, and the gears and the input shaft for the 770. I don't have all the parts for the over center clutch. Email me if you are interested in these parts. Larry......
Re: Oliver 66 frame numbers
Posted by Mitch on 12/27/2001 at 11:08:25 IP: 198.152.12.68
Larry's I thought that IL numbers were for super 66 tractors and L were for regular 66 tractors? Like IK is for super 88 and K is for regular 88. the reason i thouhgt i had a regular 66 was because this frame does not have the drive in cultavtors like a super it just has the pipe holes. Is this a raer tractor to have the super numbers on a regular frame?? Hope this explains my qusetion better. Thanks again?
Re: Oliver 66 frame numbers
Posted by Larry from Maryland on 12/28/2001 at 11:39:19 IP: 208.10.124.253
Adding the numbers in front was an inproduction change.It was not done at the same time as the supers started.The additional numbers where added because oliver had to add more factorie space to supply parts for the tractor assembly plant.If you look at the old books 2K and 2M so up now and then.The 2 tells the parts man thats a part from another plant.
77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Dave Westlund on 12/24/2001 at 23:22:32 IP: 204.73.102.68
I have spent the last two weeks trying to get my 77 oliver to run. Would not start. Put new plugs, points, rotor and condenser. Carburetor rebuild kit in. Still would not start. Plugged the tractor in last night and finally decided to pull the tractor. Stated up but sounded like it was hitting on three cylinders??? Goofed around with the timing and adjusted the carburetor and in did idle ok but and had power when put under a load, but the tractor hunts at higher RPM's. I can not figure this thing out. Could there be something wrong with the govenor? Also I went and tried to start the tractor when it cooled down. Spun over good but would not start again. Any ideas? I'm lost! Thanks for any help. Merry Christmas. Dave
Re: 77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/25/2001 at 06:43:14 IP: 209.163.7.21
It could be ignition. You could have weak spark. My first inclination would be weak spark. You could have a bad switch or a bad connection in the wiring from the battery to the coil. I would run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the coil and see if that makes any difference. A weak coil could be a possibility. Is this tractor original or has it been changed to a 12 volt? Is your polarity to the distributor correct? Larry........
Re: 77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Dave Westlund on 12/25/2001 at 16:30:57 IP: 204.73.102.161
It has been converted to a 12 volt system and I'm using a resistor. Positive side of coil is toward the resistor. Can I run a jumper wire from the battery to the coil or should it be to the resistor? Thanks again for your help. Should add it started today, but only if I plugged the tractor in for 2 hours. It was 10 above today and should start with out plugging in. What should the compression be? I can measure this it it would help to diagnois. dave
Re: 77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/25/2001 at 17:11:37 IP: 209.163.7.64
Just to check it out, you could run a jumper wire from the coil to the battery. I'm assuming that you have a negative ground system. Make sure and check all the wiring connections and make sure they are making good contact. It sounds like you have a poor electrical connection someplace in the system. I don't know what size pistons you have but it should be 100 to 120. The main thing is that they are fairly even. Larry......
Re: 77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Dave W on 1/1/2002 at 17:56:55 IP: 204.73.102.186
Sorry for the long delay in getting back to you. I did connect a wire from the positive side of the battery to the negative side of the coil. this did not make any improvement. I should mention that I must plug the tractor in to get it started and pull the choke out and close the throttle all the way before it will start. Always started easy in the past in when it was cold out. When running at fast idle it would still hunt. I could get off my tractor and grab the govenor it it would settle down???? Weird. I did run it back about 1/2 mile in some snow and it has power but once in awhile it would start to hunt again and then would settle down, I suppose because it would get under a load. The hunting isn't as bad as always having to plug the tractor in to get it started. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave
Re: 77 hunts and can't figure it out??
Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/7/2002 at 12:22:25 IP: 209.163.7.97
You still havn't gotten your ignition problem fixed. Get your coil tested or try replacing the condenser. Then, if you get your spark problem corrected, go to work on adjusting your governor for the hunting problem. Larry..............
1755 gears
Posted by Don on 12/23/2001 at 14:38:48 IP: 152.163.204.184
Larry- Just today my dad was using my 1755. when he tried to back up, the shifter went in the slot but the tractor didn't budge.All gears on the right hand side are gone, including both reverse. some symptoms leading up to this are that it was getting hard to pull out of reverse. What could the problem be? How hard is it to fix/ about how much am I looking at for a dealer to do it? Also, how much to fix the leak in the brakes on both sides? I think the cylinders are blown on the brakes. Happy Holidays Don
Re: 1755 gears
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 12/24/2001 at 12:07:12 IP: 208.10.124.116
Most likely the shift fork is broken.One fork shifts all the gears on one side of the trans.Right before they break they often get bent this makes the shift collars hard to move as they are binding.If you keep driveing a tractor around like this the broken piece will start grinding agaist the gears,OUCH!
Re: 1755 gears
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/24/2001 at 05:31:40 IP: 209.163.7.13
You are going to have to take the lid off the transmission and look. Then go from there. This could be a major operation and I would suggest that you take it to a qualified repair shop. I can't speculate on costs until you know what you have. The brake pads are probably worn enough that the pistons have moved in far enough to expose the "O" rings and thus leak. The brake discs are about $20 or so each and there are 4 of them. The "O" rings about $20 and 2-3 hrs. labor. Larry......
Re: 1755 gears
Posted by Don on 12/25/2001 at 06:28:59 IP: 64.12.104.58
Thanks for all the help. Tomorrow I'll call up the shop and have them pick it up. Hopefully they can have it back in a week or two. I'll write back as to what they find wrong with it. Don
Draft control rod?
Posted by Larry Anderson on 12/21/2001 at 20:01:09 IP: 64.68.165.167
Larry Harsin , I have looked at the manual for the 1800 A gas at the dealership this afternoon. It appears, that to remove the input shaft you need to take off the hydraulic unit to remove a nut on the rear end of the input shaft and push it out towards the front.. What I need to know is, what do I disconnect to remove the hyd. unit? I remember about the PS lines and the live shaft, but how about the draft control rod??? Where is it located?? Also where is the drain plug for the hyd.unit located? Thanks Larry Anderson
PS Are the service manuals refered to on this site, as detailed as the origional Oliver ones??
Re: Draft control rod?
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/22/2001 at 06:41:04 IP: 209.163.7.24
After you disconnect the lines, remove all the bolts around the hyd. unit, where it is attached to the rear main frame. Don't forget to remove the 2 long 3/8 cap screws on the hump towards the front. They are about 6-8 inches back from front of the unit. There should be a 3/4in socket head drain plug on the side of the unit about midway. There's no problem with the draft con. link. in removal of the unit. It's a rod that contacts a head on a bolt. The draft con. rod sits between the bull gears and you lift the unit right up off of it. The I & T Man. is cheaper. Jensales 800-443-0625. They aren't as detailed. The Oliver manuals are 5 - 6 in. thick and are very exp. to reprint. You can check at Oliv Hq. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry...........
Re: Draft control rod?
Posted by Larry on 12/22/2001 at 11:27:17 IP: 208.10.124.234
Don't forget the long pto shaft either.
Re: Draft control rod?
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/22/2001 at 20:43:59 IP: 209.163.7.92
You can remove the hydraulic unit without taking that long pto shaft out. Larry..............
Re: Draft control rod?
Posted by Larry on 12/23/2001 at 17:34:31 IP: 208.10.124.81
Oops you'r right.
1800 A model gas
Posted by Larry Anderson on 12/18/2001 at 19:23:41 IP: 64.68.165.68
I just hauled in an 1800 A gas project tractor. It is missing the short shaft and retainer for the live shaft that is located above the pto. Also the transmission jumps out of all gears in both high and low range. This tractor has no 2or 3 speed hydraulic clutch unit. The high/low range shift collar seems to be loose on its hub and the high range gear itself, has about 3/16 end play and seems to be very loose on its buyshing. I haven't pulled the gears from the input shaft yet, perhaps, I will find some bad splines also. My question is, will 1850 parts fit the transmission and live shaft stub/retainer. Also, are the shifting collars all the same? I would assume that the 1-2 collar or the R-4 collar would have less wear if taken from another tractor. Larry Harsin, would you have these parts? Thanks in advance. Larry Anderson
Re: 1800 A model gas
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/18/2001 at 23:12:21 IP: 209.163.7.72
Some of those things won't exchange from an 1800 to an 1850. I do have an 1850 that I am parting out. I think the shifter collars might work. The short shaft with the gears that run the pump might work. Send me an email if you are interested. Larry.......
Oliver 1955 Weight
Posted by Ryan on 12/18/2001 at 10:54:47 IP: 216.204.137.48
I'm looking for a tractor weight for a Oliver model 1955 four wheel drive?
Re: Oliver 1955 Weight
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/18/2001 at 23:06:25 IP: 209.163.7.72
I have a few front end weights and a few rear wheel weights. Why don't you email me as to which one you need. Larry.........
wet sleeve installation...how to?
Posted by Greg S. on 12/17/2001 at 21:59:00 IP: 65.224.248.124
My 550 is in need of sleeves, rings and pistons. End gap is nearly three times reject gap of .045" cited in the manual!! The sleeves are sealed with a neoprene seal at the bottom of the cooling gallery and with a flange/head gasket at the top. My manual also suggests using a "white lead paste" on the sealing rings to facilitate installation and to aid in sealing. Can't seem to find the paste anywhere. What do you suggest??
Re: wet sleeve installation...how to?
Posted by Carl on 12/18/2001 at 14:34:47 IP: 199.150.177.187
Greg S., I recently did a sleeve job on a 1650 gas and a 1650 diesel. These have similar O-ring type wet sleeves. I used a white lithium grease commonly referred to as "motor assembly grease". It has worked fine with no problems. You can buy at almost any auto parts store (I got mine at NAPA auto parts).
Re: wet sleeve installation...how to?
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/18/2001 at 23:03:58 IP: 209.163.7.72
I just use liquid dish detergent. There will be instructions in the sleeve set that you purchase that will tell you what to use. Some seals expand if you use grease on them. Don't use grease unless they tell you to. Larry............
Magneto point gap
Posted by Pat T. on 12/17/2001 at 15:23:38 IP: 216.119.19.15
What is the point gap on a Wico mag on a Hercules 4 cyl? How do you adjust the timing of the spark?
Re: Magneto point gap
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/17/2001 at 19:54:46 IP: 209.163.7.89
The point gap is around .014. The timing is adjusted by loosening the 2 mounting bolts that hold the mag onto the flange. Then shift it slightly. Larry.............
Oliver Superior Grain Drill
Posted by Mike Royle on 12/15/2001 at 13:09:06 IP: 64.243.154.219
I have a Oliver Superior Grain Drill that is in great shape. Model Number is 26-15747 It has a wood box has been shedded and used up till 2 years ago. I would like to find a Owners/Operators manual and or a service manual. Can you please tell me where I might beable to find a copy of these manuals and what year it was built? Mike
Re: Oliver Superior Grain Drill
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/15/2001 at 23:19:39 IP: 209.163.7.69
You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net. She will probably be able to tell you the year it was made also. Larry.........
What model loader on 550
Posted by Greg S. on 12/14/2001 at 13:06:31 IP: 65.224.246.205
I have a 1961 550 with a loader that unable to identify model number. It has a double acting bucket w/ hydraulic pump located at the front of the tractor which is driven by the harmonic damper. The hyd. fluid is stored in the upright stanchion. Is this enough to identify model number?? Doesn't seem to be any marking at all.
Re: What model loader on 550
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/14/2001 at 20:44:57 IP: 209.163.7.64
I'd about have to see a picture of it to be of much help on identifying it. If you want to send one, we are at 3426 170th. St., Estherville, IA 51334 Larry.............
2-105 hydrolic overheating
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 12/12/2001 at 18:29:48 IP: 208.10.124.30
After rebuilding my hydrolic pump I can't seem to solve the overheating problem.I have tested remotes,steering,multiple valve and the pump.The only one that passes more fluid than the book says is the pump.Its about 15 pints in 35 seconds insted of 60 seconds.The pump appears ok but to run the tractor at all I had to reduce the preasure to 1600 and it still eventually overheats.Is a new pump the fix for this.
Re: 2-105 hydrolic overheating
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/14/2001 at 20:41:17 IP: 209.163.7.64
Larry. My experience with those hydraulic systems is so limited that I don't feel qualified to be of much help on this. Larry..............
990 with cab
Posted by bill on 12/11/2001 at 19:20:43 IP: 151.205.240.192
i just purchased a oliver 990 and it has a cab on it. I was wondering if that is a factory addition or if it is just a aftermarket addition. thanks
Re:990 with cab
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/12/2001 at 04:44:35 IP: 209.163.7.29
It could be original, but most of them were "after-market". Possibly you could tell by looking at the "Parts Book" for a 990. You can get one by contacting Mary Ann Townsend at: hpocacc@fiai.net Larry.......
oliver radiator
Posted by kenny reed on 12/11/2001 at 19:07:41 IP: 151.205.240.192
does anyone have a location on a radiator for a celtrac 100?
Re: oliver radiator
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/12/2001 at 04:41:04 IP: 209.163.7.29
That will be a tough find. Contact Landis Zimmerman, "The Cletrac Guru" at 717-738-2573. Larry...........
1550
Posted by rousseau on 12/11/2001 at 06:08:49 IP: 199.79.253.126
Larry, You have a great site,my question. I have a chance at a 1966 1550 diesal,bad tires needs engine work,and pto parts.hydral,good trans good,sheet metal good.for less than 2k. Is this a good tractor,or a money pit. I own a s/55 1957 gas, great machine. Motor on 1550 needs oil pump,injectors cleaned. but runs. Any help would be appreciated.
Re: 1550
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/11/2001 at 16:46:52 IP: 209.163.7.60
I'd buy it! The 1550 is a real nice little tractor. I think you would be happy that you bought it. Larry
Re: 1550
Posted by Rousseau on 12/12/2001 at 05:54:22 IP: 199.79.253.67
Thanks Larry, I may need your help with pto PARTS.
Oliver Cletrac HG? ser. no.
Posted by Pat Traynor on 12/6/2001 at 13:57:42 IP: 216.119.18.113
Looks like a 194? HG model. Where is tractor ser. no. found? Eng. plate reads; 1XK3 2419410 3-1/8 X 4 008 006 I assume the 008 and 006 is valve clearances? What year is it? How can you tell the difference between an OC-3 and an HG?
Re: Oliver Cletrac HG? ser. no.
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/6/2001 at 22:37:38 IP: 209.163.7.53
I don't know where the serial number is on an HG. The 1XK3 is the engine model number. The 2419410 is probably the engine serial number. 3-1/8 x 4 is the bore stroke. And the 008 006 is the valve clearances. You will have to have the tractor serial number to know what year it is. I would guess it is a later model HG. There really isn't any difference between as OC-3 and an HG. The Cletrac Expert is Landis Zimmerman in Ephrata PA 717-738-2573. Sherry Schaefer would probably be able to answer the question and tell you where to look for the ser. no. Her email: sherry@oliverinformation.com Larry
Re: Oliver Cletrac HG? ser. no.
Posted by Pat T. on 12/26/2001 at 10:45:46 IP: 216.119.33.32
Thanks, Larry. For anyone else with the same question; Zimmerman told me the ser. no. was on the right frame just forward of the rear axle, but an after-market "U" bolt modification usually covered it up. Mine has an angle iron piece that the "U" bolts bolts into and it is welded to the frame. I guess the ser. no. was under that angle iron, so the engine year model will have to do for determining the year model.
Air cleaner 77gas& 88Diesel
Posted by Bill Fleck on 12/4/2001 at 14:45:58 IP: 152.163.204.78
Larry, We have a 77 gas and 88 diesel, I was wondering if there is a way to put a paper cartrige type filter on them and is it better than the old oil bath air filter. Thank you for your time and all the great information. Bill
Re: Air cleaner 77gas& 88Diesel
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/5/2001 at 04:48:10 IP: 209.163.7.24
The old oil bath air cleaner is very adequate. I havn't had any experience putting paper filters on. For one thing, there just isn't room for them. Larry.........
1655 diesel hydro motor
Posted by Pete in Ks on 12/3/2001 at 07:19:17 IP: 12.13.248.14
Larry, I have a 1655 diesel that the pitman shaft on the hydro motor broke just above the lower bearing. I have several questions. 1. Am I calling this steering unit by the right name? 2. Can the shaft be replaced in these and do I need any special tools to do this? 3. If the answer to #1 is no do you know where I can get a hydro motor and how much? 4. What other models use this same motor? Thanks for any help you can give. Pete
Re: 1655 diesel hydro motor
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/3/2001 at 17:33:49 IP: 209.163.7.68
1. Is this the unit in front of the engine above the wheels or is it on the bottom of the steering wheel? 2. If the shaft is in the unit in front of the engine, you can repair it. You might need help if it is the other unit. 3. I have new parts for the unit that is in front of the engine. If it is the other unit, you can get one at a salvage yard. The 1755 & 1855 use the same steering parts. Email me if I can help you with parts. Larry........
Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by Louie on 12/1/2001 at 19:51:43 IP: 63.31.15.89
I have a Oliver 1850 farm tractor. Most of the time, it prefers to stay in "low range", but sometimes WILL shift into "high range", but it never shifts into "high range" when the tractor is in motion. I run it all the time with the lever in the "high range" position. When I pull the lever out to be in "low range position", it slows the tractor down only a very small amount. Any idea what my problem might be ? Signed: new Oliver owner
Re: Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/1/2001 at 23:12:37 IP: 209.163.7.24
I assume that you have a hydra-power drive in this tractor. There must be a problem in the clutches in the hydra-power unit. I think you should contact a service man at your AGCO Dealer's and get it straightened out. Larry.........
Re: Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by Louie on 12/2/2001 at 09:35:50 IP: 63.31.15.213
Yes, Larry, it is a hydra-power drive. How much trouble is it to get to the clutches ? Would I have to break the tractor apart ? Is this a $100 project or $2000 ? Just a ballpark estimate. Thanks for your help.
Re: Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by Larry Wolfe on 12/2/2001 at 11:57:20 IP: 208.10.125.132
You should test the hydrolic part of the unit before it its disassembled.The filter and the two preasure valves can be serviced without removeing the whole unit.Without a service manuel and hydrolic test tools its difficult to do these tests.
Re: Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on 12/2/2001 at 17:50:34 IP: 209.163.7.19
I agree with Larry Wolfe, that is why I thought you should go to your AGCO Dealer. It's like a $1000 job depending on how much other stuff has to be done. I don't reccommend that you try to repair this yourself. You will probably have to lift the engine and hydra power out as one unit before you can repair it. But do those tests first to make sure that is what is going on with the tractor. Larry..........
Re: Oliver 1850 gear problems
Posted by m kuhns on 1/1/2002 at 22:51:01 IP: 204.251.89.92
Sounds like low fluid pressure. Your clutches are probably already ruined if it has been slipping like you say it has been. It could simply be caused by one of the metal latching seal that might be broken that rides on a round fork. On the outside of the hydrapower youcan see the end of his fork on the right side where the small pressure line is. Our 1850 quit shifting into direct and this was the problem. It was a simple fix that required buying a new fork and two seal rings. The last clutch set I bought cost around $300. Get a good manual if you do it yourself. An I&T manual is all we used. Just remeber to put the sprag in the right way. If not the engine will stall as soon as you release the clutch.