"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - December, 2005 Archives


oliver diesel 500 circa 1960-64

IP: 206.246.249.150 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 04:22:52 PM by beth

I need service manuals, operators manulas and parts manuals for this tractor, where may i find them

Re(1): oliver diesel 500 circa 1960-64

IP: 67.2.249.7 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 07:20:41 PM by Larry Harsin

This Oliver was built in England by David Brown. You can get these manuals from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry


Oilver Combine

IP: 68.30.136.24 Posted on December 30, 2005 at 04:29:31 PM by Bob

How do i find any info on a Model 25 combine with a # 251392? Any info would be a great help! Thank you.

Re(1): Oilver Combine

IP: 67.2.249.216 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 00:03:56 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual at the Museum in Charles City. They will be able to give you any other information you might want to know. Contact them at Email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(1): Oilver Combine

IP: 209.50.27.100 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 00:09:58 AM by B A Star

The model 25 was built from 1959 to 1962, yours was built in 1962. This machine was also painted red & built for Ford from 1959 to 1961.


Oliver 60 Row crop

IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on December 29, 2005 at 05:30:01 PM by Jeff Knapp

Is there any web sites that I can research my Dads Oliver 60 RC, Serial #607794,or location of any other #'S on this Tractor. Thanks Jeff

Re(1): Oliver 60 Row crop

IP: 67.2.249.249 Posted on December 29, 2005 at 10:30:34 PM by Larry Harsin

Your Dad's Oliver 60 RC was built in 1943. The engine is a Waukesha/Oliver 4 cylinder engine, 120.6 cu. in. 18.7 PTO horsepower. The shipping weight is 2010 lbs. When these tractors were built, a computer moved along the assembly line with them and as things were put into the tractor, the computer card was punched. They have these "Build Cards" at the Museum in Charles City. They havn't figured out all of the codes yet, but they have a lot of them. For a fee of approx. $10, they will look up your Build Card and tell you what it says about your tractor. They will even tell you to what dealer it was originally shipped. You will have to give them the serial number. Phone: 641-228-1099 Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry


1650 battery boxes

IP: 4.244.54.129 Posted on December 28, 2005 at 02:29:59 PM by Shane

Larry,where could i find either a new or a good used battery box for a oliver 1650 diesel? thanks, Shane

Re(1): 1650 battery boxes

IP: 67.2.249.121 Posted on December 28, 2005 at 07:04:43 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 80-320-6224. Larry


oliver 77 row crop1950

IP: 68.210.113.144 Posted on December 22, 2005 at 08:37:01 PM by rick cooke

battery missing 6v or 12v no marking on coil or gen [delco] ???

Re(1): oliver 77 row crop1950

IP: 67.2.249.247 Posted on December 22, 2005 at 08:44:25 PM by Larry Harsin

If it hasn't been changed, it was built as a 6 volt and the original generator is a Delco-Remy. Larry


1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 142.165.67.77 Posted on December 19, 2005 at 06:26:35 PM by Randy

Can You run Hytran oil in the transmision part of the tractor instead of 80/90 oil? Thank You Keep up the good work

Re(1): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 67.2.249.193 Posted on December 20, 2005 at 05:29:51 PM by Larry Harsin

You probably could, but I would still recommend the 80/90. The first thing that would probably happen with the Hy-Tran is that it might start leaking out of the brake seals. I don't know, it might not. Larry

Re(2): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 216.114.249.65 Posted on December 20, 2005 at 05:32:13 PM by LYLE

HI RANDY HOWS IT GOING? I WOULD NOT RUN HYTRAN IN THE REAREND AND TRANNY,I WOULD USE 80-90,BUT I HAVE BEEN USING HYTRAN IN THE 2 SPEED AND THE HYDRAUILICS AND IT SEEMS TO BE WORKING VERY WELL THANKS LYLE

Re(3): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 216.46.211.66 Posted on December 21, 2005 at 12:30:57 PM by Randy

In response to Lyle saying that you can run hytran in the 2 speed. Are you absolutely sure? I've wondered about it since the over/under on my White runs it.but I haven't dared try it.

Re(4): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 23, 2005 at 10:29:43 PM by J. Ulmer

I concur that the Hy-tran should not be used in the tranny & rear end as 80/90 has a much higher viscosity to fill the bearing spaces. If it was engineered for the thinner wet disc brakes like IHC 1486 , okay, but it was not so stick to the 80/90. Ya'll all have a safe holiday season and best wishes to everyone for a great new year in 2006!!

Re(5): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 142.165.67.45 Posted on December 29, 2005 at 07:54:48 PM by Randy

Happy new year. What grade is the old White Universal oil?

Re(6): 1850 Tranmission fuild

IP: 67.2.249.216 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 00:07:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what that is. The oil we are talking about for the transmission, is 80 - 90 weight. Happy New Year to you also. Larry


Carb for 770

IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on December 16, 2005 at 10:16:35 AM by Justin

I think it's about time to find a replacement carb for my 770. How hard will it be to find one? In the past, you have directed me to a good dealer who has been able to find whatever I need. Can't seem to remember the name of the place. Thanks again Larry.

Re(1): Carb for 770

IP: 69.205.114.103 Posted on December 17, 2005 at 04:07:05 PM by Justin

Larry - took the carb completely apart, cleaned everything, and found a tiny piece of something in the float valve restricting the flow of fuel. Running good again. A few of the brass pieces were pretty worn/bent/cracked. Can I get individual parts? Can I even get a complete carburetor? I think the tag on the one I have is stamped "TSX" or something similar.

Re(2): Carb for 770

IP: 67.2.248.111 Posted on December 17, 2005 at 07:54:19 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a complete carb. Try Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He might have an overhaul kit even. If he can't help you, check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry


oliver 70

IP: 12.47.34.83 Posted on December 16, 2005 at 05:29:17 AM by elijah quist

what is the difference between a oliver 70 standard and a oliver 70 row crop, and how much more valuble and rare is the standard. Thanks

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.248.22 Posted on December 16, 2005 at 05:56:05 AM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 70 Standard was not built to accomodate a cultivator for cultivating row crops. Their front and wheel spacings are non-adjustable. Production numbers on the Standard are much lower, so that may make it a bit more valuable. It depends on the collector. There aren't as many people looking for the Standard as there are Row Crops. Less demand lowers the value. The same is true for 77 Industrials. They were very low in production numbers, but there is less demand for them. Larry


1850 steering valve

IP: 142.165.124.202 Posted on December 14, 2005 at 08:46:36 PM by Randy

Hi there Will a steering valve{ under the steering wheel} work from a 1755 work on a 1850 tractor? Thank You

Re(1): 1850 steering valve

IP: 67.2.249.244 Posted on December 14, 2005 at 09:44:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I believe it would, but to make sure, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. and ask him. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(2): 1850 steering valve

IP: 4.249.204.246 Posted on December 15, 2005 at 10:34:24 AM by larry from maryland

No!the steering valve from a closed center system will not work on an open center system!A 1655 will work if you take all the pieces,but not a 1755.


Super 55

IP: 64.31.92.24 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 07:52:01 PM by Roy Fleming

Larry, where can I get a new elbow that goes between the exhaust manifold and the muffler. Also any tricks to get the old one off without snapping off the bolts? Thanks, Roy

Re(1): Super 55

IP: 67.2.249.147 Posted on December 13, 2005 at 09:25:11 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get one from Ag Parts First 866-264-9720. I would remove it by heating it with a torch. Larry


Oliver 550

IP: 207.200.116.8 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 06:17:34 PM by Scott J

HI Larry, I have a 59' 550, tachometer just stopped working, looking for a replacement or someone to rebuild. Any ideas?? Thanks, Scott

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 70.69.93.187 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 11:19:32 PM by Super 55

Try going to Korves Bros. www.korvesoliver.com


Super 77 Carb

IP: 205.188.116.10 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 05:56:30 PM by Wayne

I just rebuilt the carb on a recently purchased Super 77. It was not the origional M-S TSX-374 carb, but a M-S TSXU-835. Will this carb work properly on a Super 77?

Re(1): Super 77 Carb

IP: 67.2.249.147 Posted on December 13, 2005 at 09:16:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I think so. Larry


oliver diesel

IP: 216.51.132.142 Posted on December 11, 2005 at 06:04:10 PM by Don M

I have someone that says they have a super 88 with a 6cyl detroit and that can't be true but I seen the tractor once and it is black not green I thought it was a super 99 i know this ain't much to go on but any ideas?

Re(1): oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.248.88 Posted on December 11, 2005 at 10:19:43 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think it would be possible to put a 6 cylinder Detroit in either a S88 or a S99. I have seen 4 cylinder Detroits in S99's. You'd have to have a whole different front frame etc. Larry


1900 hydraulic unit removal

IP: 68.47.4.66 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 05:30:56 AM by JDH

Hello Larry! Hope all is well. I am trying to lift the Hydraulic unit off of the top of my rear end. All of the bolts are out and according to my manual there is no internal bolts. Tried cold chisels, pry bars etc. Is there any hidden causes that you know of? Thanks, David in GA

Re(1): 1900 hydraulic unit removal

IP: 216.114.249.65 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 05:27:10 PM by LYLE

THERE ARE 2 LONG BOLTS KINDA IN THE AREA OF THE OIL FILL THAT HAVE TO BE REMOVED ALSO , DID YOU REMOVE THEM IF NOT THEY WILL HAVE TO COME OUT

Re(2): 1900 hydraulic unit removal

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 07:46:54 PM by J. Ulmer

I have a Service manual (shop) I got to work on my Hancock Scraper (which used 1900 power train). If you get desperate I could fax you the applicable pages. I'm not smart enuff to scan and e-mail...copier and fax is about it!! 806-292-8475

Re(3): 1900 hydraulic unit removal

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 09:47:41 PM by Larry Harsin

You have to withdraw the PTO drive shaft from the rear of the tractor, before you can lift the hydraulic unit out, because it goes to the center of the hydraulic drive pump. It shows this in the Shop Manual. Larry


2655 turbo charger

IP: 67.177.122.10 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 06:42:59 PM by Jessica

We are rebuilding a 2655, we put a turbo charger on the engine and it needs another air cleaner to get the right amount of air to run right. I saw that you had pictures of a 2655 with the setup we are looking to put on ours. I was wondering how that second air cleaner was added to that tractor. If you could let me know how you put that air cleaner on, that would be great.

Re(1): 2655 turbo charger

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 09:36:32 PM by Larry Harsin

That 2655 was set up that way when we got it. The air cleaner itself sat on the outside of the engine compartment of the tractor. It appeared to me that it was built that way at the factory. I know very little about the 2655. Larry

Re(2): 2655 turbo charger

IP: 63.240.135.30 Posted on December 23, 2005 at 12:54:45 PM by Jessica

Do you know anyone who would know how that other air cleaner is set up? If you do could we get a way to contact them and ask them some questions

Re(3): 2655 turbo charger

IP: 67.2.249.216 Posted on December 31, 2005 at 00:13:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I really don't know, but you could contact Duane Starr at email: bastar@inetnebr.com Larry


88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 136.1.1.101 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 11:12:52 AM by Jim

Larry, Is a Standard 88 and Super 88 the same including weight? Is the only difference internal in the engine?

Re(1): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 67.2.248.216 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 09:33:25 PM by Larry Harsin

No, there are other differences. First of all, I need to ask you if in "Standard" 88 are you referring to a Fleetline 88 or an 88 Standard. An 88 Standard is a fixed tread tractor, non-adjustable. Has a wide front and is not designed for row crop farming. There were very few of this style produced in the Super Series. Larry

Re(2): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 136.2.1.101 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 11:12:12 AM by Jim

LArry, I'm only interested in Row crop tractors so I guess it would be the difference between a Fleetline 88 and a Super 88.

Re(3): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 67.2.248.119 Posted on December 9, 2005 at 09:51:01 PM by Larry Harsin

The Fleetline was built with 43 hp. The Super had 55 hp. The Fleetline had mounting holes for the pipe-style cultivator only, where the Super could accommodate the pipe-style or the newer drive-in style cultivators. The Super had improved hydraulic systems. Many of the Fleetline tractors had the newer hydraulics installed later. The Super was slightly heavier. Larry

Re(4): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 136.1.1.101 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 04:56:38 AM by Jim McAfee

Larry, What was the engine difference in the two to get 55 HP i9n the Super. Jim

Re(5): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 216.166.193.221 Posted on December 12, 2005 at 05:49:02 AM by me

more cubic inches from larger bore, higher compresson, higher RPM's.

Re(6): 88 Standard and Super 88 difference

IP: 67.2.249.147 Posted on December 13, 2005 at 09:30:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The Super had larger sleeves and pistons and larger valves in the cylinder head. That was the major 2 differences. Larry


oliver 70 main bearings

IP: 12.47.34.78 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 05:51:47 AM by dave allen

i ordered some main bearings for my row crop 70 and the ones that were in it origionally are a thust bearing but the ones i got new are just regular bearings with thrust washers, will they work or do i need different ones

Re(1): oliver 70 main bearings

IP: 67.2.248.139 Posted on December 8, 2005 at 06:59:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The Oliver 70 thrust bearing is on the front main bearing. There is a thrust flange on one side of the bearing and on the other side is a thrust washer, which is held in place with pegs in the block. Then you have to adjust it with shims. Does this sound like what you have? Larry

Re(2): oliver 70 main bearings

IP: 12.47.34.101 Posted on December 10, 2005 at 10:55:02 PM by dave allen

yes thats what i have, but the bearings they sent me does not have a thrust bearing. just two thrust washers other than that they look right, ill have to call them and see if they have different ones thanks


Cab heater core hose connections

IP: 156.76.147.55 Posted on December 3, 2005 at 01:07:04 AM by Greg LaBonte

I'm putting an ALL SEASON cab on my 1966 Oliver 1850 gas.Where do I tie into the cooling system to run too and from the heater core. I would like to beable to valve it out in the summer. Looking at the block I see a 1/4" npt drain on the right side near the back,but that looks to small. On the left side of the block near the back there is a 1/2" plug. Is this were I could install a ball valve and then run it up to the heater core? Coming out of the core were would be the correct location to put the return line?

Re(1): Cab heater core hose connections IP: 67.2.248.151 Posted on December 3, 2005 at 05:44:27 AM by Larry Harsin I think you would be better off to plumb in from the right side of the engine and hook on where the hoses come off of the engine for the hydra-power. Set the hook along side of those. You can't hook in series with the hydra-power, because you want to shut it off in the summer. So, you will have to hook in parallel. Larry


Replacing the Gremmer unit witha Char-Lynn.

IP: 67.137.92.19 Posted on December 2, 2005 at 08:34:29 PM by Jeff Oliver

This is on the 1800B again.I have heard about doing this instead of rebuilding the Gremmer. While mine is in the shop I might as well check into this also. How much of the system does it replace? Does it use it's own pump that runs off of the motor or still used the hydraulic system? Do you replace the drive unit under the radiator also? I have asked several questions about this and Have it down to I think there is a nut in the drive unit that needs tightening and i think you said it has to come out to get to the nut.

Where do I order a Char-Lynn for it and about what do they cost?

I appreciate all of your help and information, I'm learning alot about these old Olivers and the more I learn the more I like them!

Re(1): Replacing the Gremmer unit witha Char-Lynn.

IP: 67.2.248.151 Posted on December 3, 2005 at 05:39:47 AM by Larry Harsin

I would replace the Gemmer unit with a steering cylinder from an 1800C or a 50 series tractor. This means you will eliminate the steering shaft that goes down to the front wheels. Then you'll have to get a hydra-motor that will fit onto the bottom of the steering wheel shaft. You can get one from a salvage yard. I understand that one out of a Massey combine, a 410 for example, adapts quite well. You can use oil to run this from your present flow divider, like the Gemmer did. You will have to fabricate your own lines to carry the oil. Do this instead of the Char-Lynn and it will be less money. Larry


1750 Hydraulics

IP: 69.66.148.142 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 06:05:13 PM by Terry Schwarting

Hello Larry, I recently got a WL-42 Westendorf loader to put on my 1750. It came off of a 4240 Deere. I made my own mounts and got it mounted up good.It came with an external valve.I have taken out the 1/2" pipe plug on the left front corner of the hydraulic cover, screwed in a 3/8"plug inside and ran a hose from there to the inlet port of the valve.I then removed the 1/2" plug near the left rear of the cover and ran that hose to outlet port on the valve. I started the tractor and the pump relief valve kept surging, so I shut it off and did some investigating.Found out that Deere uses a closed center valve, so then I took the closed center conversion plug out of the external valve which made it open center again.I started the tractor up again, now the hydraulic outlets are working, but now the steering doesn't work. What am I doing wrong?

Re(1): 1750 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 10:05:12 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like you have done everything right. Is your flow divider is on the front of the unit or on the side of the unit? If it is on the side of the unit, you may have to hook in different. Most of the 1750's I have seen, the flow divider is on the front. If it is on the front, you may have a stuckie regulator valve on the flow divider. Larry

Re(2): 1750 Hydraulics

IP: 69.66.148.128 Posted on November 30, 2005 at 03:34:54 PM by Terry Schwarting

My 1750 is a late 1969 and the flow divider is on the side. How would I go about hooking it in different?

Re(3): 1750 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on November 30, 2005 at 09:39:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I'm afraid you are not plumbed right, to go back in with the return oil from the valve. You need to go in closer to where you installed that 3/8" plug. Your return flow should be put in an inch and a half to two inches behind the 3/8" plug that blocked the passage. Larry

Re(4): 1750 Hydraulics

IP: 69.66.148.5

Posted on December 1, 2005 at 04:06:39 PM by Terry Schwarting Hello Larry, That is where I currently have the return oil line going.Do I maybe need to go into the 1" plug near the center of the base that is called the exhaust port? What is the difference between an open center and power beyond? Do you think there is too much oil pumping through the valve that it is taking away from the steering? It will not turn either direction when the tractor is running.Any other ideas? Thanks again Terry

Re(5): 1750 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.41 Posted on December 1, 2005 at 06:01:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Put the thing back the way it was before you started all of this, and see if your steering comes back. That way, you'll know if this switching is what is causing your problem. Then, we'll go from there. You shouldn't go into that big port down at the bottom. Open center is the design of the hydraulic system itself. In an open center, your oil flows all the time until you actuate a valve. On a closed center system, the oil does not flow until you move the valve and call for the oil. Power beyond can be employed on either system. I don't think that too much oil pumping through there is the problem. I don't know what to think. Just try going back to original and see what happens. Larry


1948 rc 70

IP: 170.215.222.93 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 06:04:02 PM by Herb

Larry I wanted to find out if all 1948 rc 70 tractors has allunimin hoods and side panels or just some of them the one ijust bought has allunimin not steel

Re(1): 1948 rc 70

IP: 160.36.201.65 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 09:46:29 PM by David C. Baker

My '48 Oliver 70 Standard (S/N 314 653) has aluminum hood and side panels. Didn't find that out until recently when I had it repainted. I understand that this was from war surplus aluminum available cheap after WW II.

Re(2): 1948 rc 70

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 09:56:17 PM by Larry Harsin

Only some of them have aluminum hoods and side panels. The aluminum was used because of the shortage of steel at that time. Larry


550 oliver

IP: 69.77.133.24 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 01:19:22 PM by J. Mash

HI LARRY, IS IT POSSIBLE FOR A EXTERNAL HYDRALIC VALVE TO CAUSE THE 3-POINT LIFT NOT TO WORK CORRECTLY ON A 550? THANKS,JOHNNY.

Re(1): 550 oliver

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 09:51:18 PM by Larry Harsin

Possibly. You may have a regulator spool sticking in your external valve. Larry


88 standard hydraulics

IP: 199.151.50.240 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 11:24:05 AM by Robb

Larry, How do I put dual remotes on my 88 standard? Right now it has just the one, but it looks like it could have two. Thanks, Robb

Re(1): 88 standard hydraulics

IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 09:49:01 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll have to purchase another valve. I think I have one, but I need to know what hydraulic unit you have, such as series 1, 2, or 3. Call me at: 712-362-2966 if you are interested. You'll need a new control valve and a lever. I have to know what you have before I can instruct you. Larry


super 55 battery

IP: 67.22.162.185 Posted on November 28, 2005 at 08:33:41 PM by pooh

Hello I have a super 55 1955. When i run it for a bit and turn it off the battery swells up and hisses and its hot. I know it was supost to be a 6v system but som e one converted it to 12v. I dont thank its becalls its a negative ground now and not a positive be calls i have a yanmar that just started the same thing after i put a new battery in it. Anyids"

Re(1): super 55 battery

IP: 67.2.248.142 Posted on November 28, 2005 at 09:26:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The first thing I would do is take the battery out and put it on a charger and make sure it is working o.k. Then put it back in the tractor and watch the ammeter and see what the charging rate is. If it is in the normal range, like 5 amps when you first start it and then eases off, then all systems are o.k. If this doesn't fix it, you could have a bad battery or the voltage regulator is messed up. Larry

Re(2): super 55 battery

IP: 67.22.162.185 Posted on November 28, 2005 at 10:06:19 PM by pooh

I put the battery on a charger and its working ok. I dont have the ammeter huckt up I'm not shour how to hock it up or test it. could it be becalls it still has the reganl 6v regulator on it, if so i have a 12v regulator part #u30-3001806 If it will work on it.

Re(3): super 55 battery

IP: 67.2.249.26 Posted on November 29, 2005 at 06:16:06 AM by Larry Harsin

You have to have a 12 volt regulator and a 12 volt generator. Otherwise, you are going to have problems. Larry

Re(4): super 55 battery

IP: 67.22.162.185 Posted on November 30, 2005 at 02:39:15 PM by pooh

I installd a ammeter gauge and started it up with the 6v.regulator and it read 20 ampers. Then i used the 12v. regulator and it still reads 20 amp. unles i unhook the post wier from the battrey, Then it reads 8-10 ampers. is my alternator putting out to much?

Re(5): super 55 battery

IP: 67.2.248.208 Posted on November 30, 2005 at 09:43:29 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think so. You are going to have to do what we talked about on the phone -- put on the different regulator, etc. Larry


Seat unit for 1961 880

IP: 68.229.168.67 Posted on November 27, 2005 at 08:25:51 AM by Bill Holtapp

My father is restoring his 1961 Oliver 880 and is in need of a seat assembly. This is one of the first years of the 880, so I beieive that the unit from a 77, or 88 would also work. Any ideas where to find these parts? He lives in North Central Iowa.

Re(1): Seat unit for 1961 880

IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on November 27, 2005 at 04:29:36 PM by Larry Harsin

Sometimes you can find them in salvage yards. Check with Eiklenborg Salvage at Applington IA or Doug Johnson at Aplington IA: Email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com A unit from a 77 or an 88 would also work. You can get parts to rebuild the seat assemblies from Korves Bros Oliver. Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry


Oliver 550

IP: 67.139.249.25 Posted on November 25, 2005 at 08:11:19 AM by Lois Fisk

I am trying to find the year of an Oliver 550. The serial #1101-519. Where can I find this info?

Re(1): Oliver 550

IP: 67.2.248.102 Posted on November 25, 2005 at 07:46:22 PM by Larry Harsin

You should have another digit with the first four numbers - like a 6 or 7 in front of them. The 519 part of the serial number has to do with the gearing etc that went into your tractor. Your tractor could be a 1958 or a 1959. Let me know the other number and we can tell you for sure. Larry

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