Super 55 shifting

IP: 96.235.253.145 Posted on December 31, 2010 at 09:34:12 AM by joe

Hi Larry, I have a 1955 super 55 diesel, with a shifting problem, if you dont carefully place the gear, it will pop out of the proper slot, more in the upper set of gears than the bottom, and if it pops out you have to take the shifter out and realign the rails with a bar, then replace the shifter, any ideas thank you.

Re(1): Super 55 shifting

IP: 75.104.169.154 Posted on January 1, 2011 at 08:26:49 AM by Larry Harsin

There is probably some wear in the shift lever itself, and where it sits in the socket. There may also be wear in the shift lever where it engages the rails. Also, the springs could be weak. Larry

Re(2): Super 55 shifting

IP: 96.235.253.145 Posted on January 1, 2011 at 10:09:28 AM by joe

I was thinking about welding up the ball on the end of the shifter a little to see if it would stay in the slot better do you think thats a good idea or not. Joe

Re(3): Super 55 shifting

IP: 75.105.57.64 Posted on January 2, 2011 at 05:29:30 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that might be something you could try. Larry

Oliver 77

IP: 24.210.48.235 Posted on December 30, 2010 at 07:17:05 PM by Ken

I have an Oliver 77 and the brass washer behind the governor assembly was worn to nothing. There is wear on the front of the engine from the steel to steel contact where the washer should have been. Can I put a new washer and governor weight assembly on it and get away with it? This unit will just be used occasionally. The balls on the thimble bearing were not all there also. The weights had hit the housing because they were allowed to swing out too far. The governor housing looks like it could be used again but there is a grove from the weights hitting. Also, where is a good place to get a new weight and thimble assembly? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Oliver 77

IP: 75.104.169.154 Posted on December 31, 2010 at 08:15:21 AM by Larry Harsin

If it is worn very much, you could probably put in two new washers. Otherwise, Korves Oliver has a new insert that can be fitted into the block. They also have the governor thrust bearing with the balls and thimble etc. 618-939-6681. Larry

1650 Drive Chain

IP: 69.26.9.162 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 09:31:04 AM by Bill Wagner

I too have a 1650 and I have not had any problems with these sprockets or the chain that connects them (see the previous post from Robert) . Is there any maintenance that should be done to try avoid problems with these things?

Re(1): 1650 Drive Chain

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 11:02:19 PM by Larry Harsin

Just lubricate them occasionally. Put just a little oil on it. Larry

1650 drive chain

IP: 71.164.113.160 Posted on December 27, 2010 at 06:46:00 PM by robert lapage

We have a 1650 diesel oliver tractor. We had the motor rebuilt and used it for about 25 hours. The tractor would not move. I looked at the chain and we have found that the rear sprocket is stripped. We pulled the long shaft and the splines on it look good. The small shaft maybe bad. What and how do we remove the 2 sprockets. Should we replace both sprockets. What is this called. We do have a book but not too sure what to look under. thanks

Re(1): 1650 drive chain

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 07:14:17 AM by Larry Harsin

To replace those sprockets, the engine and hydra power have to be pulled out of the tractor. You may find the splines where the sprocket fits on the transmission shaft, are very thin or worn. Larry

Timing a Mag

IP: 98.228.89.162 Posted on December 27, 2010 at 05:54:22 PM by John

Hi Larry, I have been working on a 70 when I have time. I finally have it up and running. I am working on the timing. This tractor has a Mag. I am going by what the manual says to do...put a plug wire in the #1 hole and shine the spark in the observation hole to see the mark on the flywheel. The spark is not on the timing mark and when I turn the mag nothing happens. No change in engine sound or anything. The mag maybe turns back and forth about 1/2 inch maybe 3/4. Is this normal or should there be more? What should I do? Thanks, John

Re(1): Timing a Mag

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 07:11:31 AM by Larry Harsin

I would try to find a timing light and use that. Borrow one from someone. Larry

Re(2): Timing a Mag

IP: 75.205.227.24 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 09:08:19 AM by John

I have a timing light I can use. What about rotating the mag and nothing seems to change? Thanks.

Re(3): Timing a Mag

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 10:59:53 PM by Larry Harsin

The way you are turning it is normal. You are going to have to determine if your timing is fast or slow. If you can't achieve the desired timing in that slotted adjustment, you are going to have to change the timing gear 1 tooth, either faster or slower, what ever you need. Larry

550 Rear end noise

IP: 99.74.10.178 Posted on December 26, 2010 at 04:13:19 PM by Jeff Chamness

Larry any help would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a link to my photobucket account that has video of what is happening.

Re(1): 550 Rear end noise

IP: 184.0.10.118 Posted on December 26, 2010 at 10:57:22 PM by J.Mash

You have something broken inside. Remove hydrolic oil and top cover.(its heavy)Remove three drain plugs underneath the tractor. Use 3 two gallon separate containers to catch the gear oil. The one with the most broken pieces will help you locate the problem. (each plug has its own oil baffle in the bottom of the tranny) Probably ring,pinion,or carrier related. Like some of the fellas said on the other foreum,check the brakes first.Brakes on a 550 can make you pull your hair out if you dont have a owners manual. They need at least 2 inches of free travel,bolts on the drum must be torqued to specs. Set the brakes in the park position when tractor is not in use. (It keeps the drums and expanders from rusting)

Re(3): 550 Rear end noise

IP: 99.130.164.131 Posted on December 27, 2010 at 00:01:20 AM by Jeff Chamness

Thanks J. This history on this tractor is that someone traded it in on a bigger tractor... so no past history was really available, it sat outside under cover for roughly 3 months at the dealership without the parking breaks set. I am going to assume that your advice will be to tear into the breaks first, they seem to work fine, when I drove it off the lot in the snow and ice it seemed that the breaks were grabbing but did not hear the banging noise when i test drove it or when we loaded when we purchased it.

Re(4): 550 Rear end noise

IP: 75.104.182.69 Posted on December 27, 2010 at 07:09:20 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, the video was coming one picture at a time then would stop and sit - too long - or else we just didn't know how to receive it. I would start doing the easy checks first and go until I found the problem. Larry

Re(5): 550 Rear end noise

IP: 99.130.164.131 Posted on December 27, 2010 at 11:02:23 AM by Jeff

Larry, Don't know why the video would be slow, should just be a point and click video, the longest one is like 1min 24sec Thanks, Jeff

Re(6): 550 Rear end noise

IP: 75.104.169.126 Posted on December 28, 2010 at 07:09:47 AM by Larry Harsin

The video worked this morning. Take the hydraulic off and see what is broken. Larry

Oliver Super 55 repowers

IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 03:44:39 AM by gary

has any body seen or tried to put an oliver 77 engine in a super 55 much like a funks brothers conveersion on an 8n ford?

Re(1): oliver super 55 repowers

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 07:30:01 AM by Larry Harsin

No. I wouldn't recommend it. The engine is too big for the tractor. Now, if you are building a "hot rod", with work, it could probably be done. But, again, I wouldn't recommend it. Larry

Re(2): oliver super 55 repowers

IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 07:32:12 PM by gary

i don't tkink that puttind a hot rod 88 engine in super 55 for tractor pulling would be any more damaging than using the same engine in an oliver 77 within reason i'm more planning to to use a slightly built engine for some better power like running a 5' brush hog all depends on the expected useage.

Re(3): oliver super 55 repowers

IP: 71.227.216.191 Posted on December 24, 2010 at 07:35:48 PM by gary

the size of the tractor with about 50-70 hp would be very usefull i dont think that pulling a four bottom plow would be very good, staying with a two bottom plow would still be plenty

1650 Hydralics

IP: 205.185.133.187 Posted on December 21, 2010 at 09:52:18 PM by Jordan Ras

I have a 1650 that seems to have weak hydrolics. They are slow to lift the three point and the front end loader but when not warmed up it can barely lift a 1200 lb bale with loader or three point. Once hydralics warm up it won't hardly lift anything but the bale speer. Also power steering isn,t anything to brag about, have to have troctor running wide open to get it to operate anything. Any ideas whats going on or if there is a way to get more flow or lift out of hyd?

Re(1): 1650 Hydralics

IP: 208.103.155.127 Posted on December 22, 2010 at 06:34:01 AM by Larry from MD

Most likely its a bad pump.You could check the preasure relief valve, but its the pump.

Re(2): 1650 Hydralics

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 22, 2010 at 06:36:56 AM by Larry Harsin

Your hydraulic pump is weak and will have to be replaced. Larry

Re(3): 1650 Hydralics

IP: 205.185.132.149 Posted on December 22, 2010 at 12:42:21 PM by Jordan Ras

Thanx, was hoping it would be some silly adjustment but put new fluids in and tried different adjustments and no change. Any idea how expensive to fix.

Re(4): 1650 Hydralics

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 23, 2010 at 05:16:06 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get a new after market pump from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 or Ag Parts First at 866-264-9720. It will be under $400. Larry

Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 64.85.144.213 Posted on December 20, 2010 at 01:33:41 PM by Craig

Larry, I recently purchased an 880 in non-running condition. Upon removal of the valve cover I found several broken washers. It appears as though they came from the valve rotator/ spring retainer area. Any thoughts as to what would cause this? Also are there any aftermarket power steering assemblies for this tractor as it came from the factory with no power steering.

Re(1): Oliver 880 Diesel

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 22, 2010 at 06:35:23 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what caused them to break. I would put new rotor caps to replace the broken ones. Char-Lynn is the power steering that I would recommend for that tractor. It is after market. I have a used one, if you are interested, call me. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 1850 not running

IP: 64.24.157.21 Posted on December 20, 2010 at 11:12:09 AM by Brian

Checked manual, but 1850 still will not start. New points, checked for spark at plugs, coil, and points...good. Sprayed some gas in cylinders and still no fire. checked timing (static) again. Thought maybe 180 out, but you can't do that with the Holley distributor. Like I said before, it ran when I parked it, and now it will not fire at all. Before this happened, I rebuild carb and ran it fine. Gets fuel through to carb...steady stream for as long as you want. Would it be condensor? Probably not since getting spark. Governor? It did surge before when I bought it. Pulling my hair out to figure this one.

Re(1): Oliver 1850 not running

IP: 208.103.155.221 Posted on December 20, 2010 at 11:32:24 AM by Larry from md.

Are the plugs wet after trying it? Is compression ok,no valves stuck?

Re(2): Oliver 1850 not running

IP: 75.104.168.99 Posted on December 22, 2010 at 06:32:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have anything to add to this. If you have fuel and have spark, something should happen. Larry

16 and 1900 hyds.

IP: 207.119.43.82 Posted on December 18, 2010 at 00:03:09 AM by John

I have a couple of questions, mainly concerning the hyds on a 1600 and 1900. My 1600 is a '64 with dual hyds. I have only used the right side(as your sitting in the seat)since I've owned the tractor until this summer and I went to hook up the rake to the left side(rake only uses one hose). It acted like it was trying to pressurize both lines on that side at the same time, most of the time the end result was the line blowing that didnt have a hose hooked to it. The right side works with out a problem. Is my problem in the valve body? My tractor is a narrow front and I have a problem with it wondering real bad(road crazy). How can I tighten that up? One more question on it. Where is the best place to get a tac cable for it? Its a diesel. My local dealer says they are no longer available.

My 1900 is an A series and Im fighting steering issues with it also. I am having problems with the steering locking up on it, I have taking the diverter valve apart and inspected it and replaced some shims, but it still locks up, but its even worse now. Could a weak hyd. pump cause this or do I need to be looking in the steering motor itself? I have a new pump that Im going to install this next week, since my hyds are pretty slow to non existant. I just wanted to make sure there wasnt something simple I was over looking. My last question on it is, where can a person find the top portion of the hood, or what other models would work on it, if any? The previous owner cut the front section out when he replaced the radiator with one out of a car. Any help you can provide me would be great!! Thank you, John

Re(1): 16 and 1900 hyds.

IP: 75.104.182.172 Posted on December 20, 2010 at 07:15:01 AM by Larry Harsin

On the 1600, if you are going to use only one hose on the left valve, you should read your Operator's Manual and turn the by-pass valve out 3 turns. This will show you in your Operator's Manual. These valves are under the seat support.

On the 1900, I would replace the pump first and go from there. Get a tach cable from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry

77 Standard Clutch

IP: 174.31.58.234 Posted on December 16, 2010 at 04:14:51 PM by Chris

I have a 1949 77 Standard and the shaft that comes out of the clutch bell housing and into the transmission is loose and has a lot of side play. It appears the coupler had loose bolts and now both shafts each way into the transmission and clutch housing are loose like maybe bushings are worn. I plan to pull the engine and tear apart the clutch to renew everything. I am most concerned with the shaft that goes in the transmission and am wondering if there is a bearing or a bushing that needs replaced? I probably can find a new coupler and splined shafts for the clutch and transmission. Thank you for your time.

Re(1): 77 Standard Clutch

IP: 75.104.168.123 Posted on December 17, 2010 at 07:32:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. All of those parts are readily available. When you get it torn down, let me know what you need. Larry

77 Questions

IP: 68.72.250.165 Posted on December 13, 2010 at 09:59:24 AM by Brent

Hi, great site. Couple of questions for you. I'm new to owning an Oliver and I just bought a 1953 77. First thing is what and where can I get the best shop manual for this that covers all the systems and engine? Secondly, the tractor ran good until it got cold outside. Now it seems to run very rich. Starts ok but even after running and warming up for some time it still seems very rich. Not having a manual yet I don't know what adjustments are on the carb. I see two screws on the carb but haven't played with them yet. Is it possible that it's a stuck needle or something? Are these ever known for that?

Next, the brakes are very touchy. If you are going forward the second the brake engages it just locks up the wheel, either side. They seem to work ok in reverse. Any ideas? Lastly, sorry to be a pest, is the trans makes a little noise periodically when backing up. All the other gears seem ok and quite. Is this something I should be greatly concerned with or not at this time? Thanks for all the help.

Re(1): 77 Questions

IP: 75.104.168.222 Posted on December 13, 2010 at 09:47:27 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual and a Parts Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099. I would say it needs to have the load needle turned in a bit to lean it down some. I'm assuming it has a TSX363 Marvel Shebler carb. The load needle is the big needle on top of the carb that you can use your finger to turn it down. The smaller needle is the idle mixture adjustment. With the engine running at a slow idle, adjust it to where the engine runs the best. I would imagine the brakes need the covers removed and cleaned out. Check the condition of the linings when you do this. I don't know about the noise when backing up. It might be a loose nut on the bevel pinion shaft. Larry

tranmission

IP: 74.213.211.126 Posted on December 11, 2010 at 02:23:43 PM by Jim

I own a 1755 diesel Have two questions, gear shift lever will jump out of gear ,or I can feel a grind when trying to get it to stay in a gear. Some times it stays in okay but when using the other ranges it does not work. The other problem that developed lately is a bad cases of misses when diesel engine starts and now there is oil on top of the antifreeze.

Re(1): tranmission

IP: 75.104.168.89 Posted on December 12, 2010 at 08:08:37 AM by Larry Harsin

I would check the transmission lube filter above the left hand brake. Loosen that filter and start the tractor and see if oil comes out. If no oil appears, that could be the root of your shifting problem. Lack of lube on the input shaft cluster can do some bad things. The engine problem sounds like you may have a cylinder where unburned fuel is getting into the cooling system, such as a bad head gasket or a cracked sleeve. These are a couple of possibilities. Larry

Super 55 Carb Idle Mixture Problems

IP: 71.51.124.110 Posted on December 11, 2010 at 12:38:54 PM by Rod

I have a Super 55 Gas with a Schebler carb that I rebuilt a few years ago. When trying to adjust it (this was the same right after the rebuild), I can take the idle mixture screw all the way in and it runs the best right there at about 650 RPM. If I then back it out a little, the engine will start to run faster, then will start to spit and sputter like it's too rich. Is it OK to run it all the way in? Or, should I be looking somewhere else first, like timing or the idle adjustment? I can't seem to get it to run much slower than 650 RPM. Thanks in advance, Rod

Re(1): Super 55 Carb Idle Mixture Problems

IP: 75.104.168.89 Posted on December 12, 2010 at 08:04:04 AM by Larry Harsin

It should idle slower that 650, but I have had the same problem. I think I would try using a vacuum gauge to see if the reading is even or erratic, such as a leaking intake valve. Also, you could try putting some penetrating oil around the 2 intake gaskets to see if you have any air leaks there. Larry

1948 Oliver 70 RC - Green Paint Color Code

IP: 76.244.149.40 Posted on December 10, 2010 at 10:08:02 PM by Terry Allen

Information lists the Green paint as Martin Senor 99L-8748. Not able to cross reference this code locally. Do you know the PPG and/or DuPont equivalent code?

Re(1): 1948 Oliver 70 RC - Green Paint Color Code

IP: 75.104.168.89 Posted on December 11, 2010 at 07:23:19 AM by Larry Harsin

PPG green is 925956. Larry

Super 88 tank heater

IP: 208.126.158.47 Posted on December 8, 2010 at 05:48:53 PM by Zach

Hi Larry.I would like to put a tank heater on my Super 88. Where would be the best place to run the lines to. Do I just go between the drain on the back of the engine and the drain on the lower hose coming out of the radiator? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): Super 88 tank heater

IP: 75.104.169.164 Posted on December 9, 2010 at 06:47:52 AM by Larry Harsin

That would work..... I'd put the regular Oliver block heater on it. It goes in place of the elbow between the water pump and the radiator. Larry

Front wheels Oliver 70

IP: 24.13.10.64 Posted on December 6, 2010 at 05:02:16 PM by John

Hi Larry, I need a front wheel for my 70. Any idea where I can find 1 that will match what I have? My 70 is a 1939. Thanks, John

Re(1): Front wheels Oliver 70

IP: 75.104.182.30 Posted on December 7, 2010 at 07:10:54 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. I don't know who does. You could check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

hydraulic drive

IP: 97.112.104.223 Posted on December 4, 2010 at 10:41:29 PM by scott Collver

I installing a three point lift system from a 1755 on my 1800 am I looking at it wrong or did they change the direction the pump turns.

Re(1): hydraulic drive

IP: 208.103.155.233 Posted on December 5, 2010 at 07:47:48 AM by Larry from MD

A 1755 is a closed center system and an 1800 is open center.They are NOT interchangeable.

Re(2): hydraulic drive

IP: 97.112.104.223 Posted on December 5, 2010 at 08:27:47 AM by scott collver

can I convert the whole system

Re(3): hydraulic drive

IP: 208.103.155.245 Posted on December 6, 2010 at 06:42:03 AM by Larry from MD

No. You need a unit from a 50 series tractor.

1800/1600 loader

IP: 64.130.189.160 Posted on December 3, 2010 at 11:11:35 AM by Josh Nunn

I have an 1800 and was wanting to put a loader on it. I found one that come off a 1600, i was wondering if it would work. Thanks, Josh

Re(1): 1800/1600 loader

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on December 3, 2010 at 09:34:39 PM by Larry Harsin

It should. You might have to do a little adjusting, but it should be doable. Larry

Oliver 1655

IP: 207.190.182.212 Posted on December 3, 2010 at 10:43:03 AM by Randy

Larry, I have a 1974 1655 diesel,with a 1610 loader. I use the 2 remotes on the tractor for the loader. The outside remote lever which I use for the bucket wants to stick in the detent and also wants to dump when I use the inside lever for the loader arms. Is there any adjustment of these levers to operate better ?

Re(1): Oliver 1655

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on December 3, 2010 at 09:32:58 PM by Larry Harsin

I would try switching the hoses around on each outlet and see if that affects it. Let me know what happens. Larry

1800 Wheatland rims

IP: 198.68.232.172 Posted on December 2, 2010 at 07:56:46 PM by Greg M

I am looking at purchasing a 1800 Wheatland tractor. Tractor is missing the front rims/tires. What size rims/tires are suppose to be on this tractor? I have seen pictures of the Super 99 and appears to use the same size tires/rims. Any info would be appreciated!

Re(1): 1800 Wheatland rims

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on December 2, 2010 at 09:11:25 PM by Larry Harsin

They are 7.50x18 inch rims. I have some of those. You can call me if you need them. 712-362-2966. Larry

Oliver 88 wide front

IP: 198.68.232.172 Posted on December 2, 2010 at 07:53:38 PM by Greg

Larry, Been having issues with the steering on my Oliver 88 w/factory wide front. Problem is tractor turns very sharp to the left but not sharp enough to the right. I thought steering arm that attachs tierods to steering box was off, it appears to be centered when I drive the tractor straight. I have also seen this same problem on a wide front 880. Is this a design flaw or something out of adjustment. Tie rods all measure the same lenght from center to center of ball joints. Regards, Greg M

Re(1): Oliver 88 wide front

IP: 75.104.161.203 Posted on December 2, 2010 at 09:09:36 PM by Larry Harsin

This is a design problem. You can rectify it somewhat by changing the length of the tie rods where they attach to the tractor. Larry

2-135 main bearings

IP: 72.2.165.201 Posted on December 1, 2010 at 10:11:23 AM by Dan

Is it necessary to remove the engine to replace main bearings on a White 2-135?

Re(1): 2-135 main bearings

IP: 208.103.155.64 Posted on December 1, 2010 at 12:08:49 PM by Larry from MD

No ,but its harder to remove the pan than most oliver tractors.You need to remove the front axel or at least get the yoke down out of the way.The pan is heavy.

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