"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" -December, 2011 Archives


Oliver1550 Steering Arm removal

IP: 166.147.102.162 Posted on December 31, 2011 at 05:01:30 PM by R Schuster

We have broken the center steering arm swept back axle on our Oliver 1550 wide front end. Want to know what the best method of removing the old part and placing the new part is. Thanks.

Re(1): Oliver1550 Steering Arm removal

IP: 75.104.168.41 Posted on January 1, 2012 at 08:15:45 AM by Larry Harsin

You will have to remove the front end assembly from under the tractor, so that you can remove the pitman shaft and replace that arm. Larry

Re(2): Oliver1550 Steering Arm removal

IP: 207.241.137.116 Posted on January 1, 2012 at 10:43:55 AM by rrlund

I don't want to stick my nose in too far here,but I have changed those by putting a few long bolts in in place of the bolts that hold the whole thing up under the tractor. Then I jacked up the belly of the tractor far enough for the shaft to pull up out of the arm without taking the axle all the way out. One thing I found though,was that when I put it back in,I used another floor jack to ease the axle back up instead of dropping the tractor back down. I had more control that way.

Re(3): Oliver1550 Steering Arm removal

IP: 75.104.168.41 Posted on January 1, 2012 at 07:53:11 PM by Larry Harsin

That's a solution that will work. You can do it that way. Technically, the company recommended it the way I said, but Lund's solution will work. Larry


Oliver 1700???

IP: 64.196.53.8 Posted on December 30, 2011 at 04:53:51 PM by kevin

did they make an oliver 1700? my granfather owned one but had to sell it when he quit farming i been told that there was no such thing. is it possible it was a prototype?

Re(1): Oliver 1700???

IP: 75.104.169.137 Posted on December 31, 2011 at 07:37:16 AM by Larry Harsin

There was no production 1700. Possibly it was a 1750. Larry


1800 engine in 88

IP: 97.190.204.137 Posted on December 28, 2011 at 07:25:51 PM by Chris Hill

Hello I just bought a 88 oliver that the previous owner installed a engine from a 1800. My question is how do I tell if this is a A, B, or C series engine. I think it may be an A series. If it is an A series is there a major differnce. Thanks sorry for all the questons Im new to olivers. Its also getting a white film around oil fill tube. Drained oil and no water came out. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Re(1): 1800 engine in 88

IP: 75.105.52.243 Posted on December 29, 2011 at 08:51:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Send us the numbers above the starter on the left side. There is an Oliver number and a Waukesha number. We need them both. Then, we can tell you which one you have. They began with the A's, then improved the tractor with updates and that was the B's and the same with the C's. About the white film, if the thermostat is working and if you use the engine and make it work, it will clean itself up. These tractors were made to work. Larry

Re(1): 1800 engine in 88

IP: 75.252.250.27 Posted on December 30, 2011 at 05:44:55 PM by Chris Hill

The numbers on the block are 106085AA and 221020F then there is also 2122.

Re(2): 1800 engine in 88

IP: 75.104.169.137 Posted on December 31, 2011 at 09:05:52 AM by Larry Harsin

You are correct, you have an 1800 A series. Larry


Oliver 1600 enclosed cab

IP: 66.87.93.52 Posted on December 28, 2011 at 08:42:35 AM by Robert

What enclosed cabs will fit a Oliver 1600? I found a Oliver 1955 cab, will this fit the 1600? Thank you

Re(1): Oliver 1600 enclosed cab

IP: 69.72.27.169 Posted on December 28, 2011 at 05:20:18 PM by larry from md.

The axel on the 1600 is thinner so if it has built in rollbar it will be harder to mount,but if you work at it you might get it on.

Re(2): Oliver 1600 enclosed cab

IP: 75.105.52.243 Posted on December 29, 2011 at 08:28:24 PM by Larry Harsin

It will work if you make some adaptations. Larry


99 Oliver front hubs

IP: 67.207.228.240 Posted on December 26, 2011 at 08:02:47 PM by Jack

I want to drop some weight off my Oliver 99 what front hubs will replace the big cast iron weighted ones that are on it now. Also what can I do to go to pressed steel rear rims instead of the cast centers

Re(1): 99 Oliver front hubs

IP: 75.104.168.61 Posted on December 27, 2011 at 07:34:30 AM by Larry Harsin

I need to know what model 99 you have, so I can't answer your question. I need to know the Model and the Serial Number. Larry

Re(2): 99 Oliver front hubs

IP: 67.207.228.240 Posted on December 27, 2011 at 11:03:50 AM by Jack

Serial number is 517387c66

Re(3): 99 Oliver front hubs

IP: 75.104.168.61 Posted on December 27, 2011 at 08:41:02 PM by Larry Harsin

So, you have an old 4 cylinder 99, built in 1951. I don't know what your options would be. It will take a different rear hub. You'll have to research it out. I've never seen that particular tractor with pressed steel on it. It will take you some figuring to figure that out. Larry


1755 parking brake

IP: 206.131.30.3 Posted on December 21, 2011 at 08:40:15 AM by Jeremy

I have a 1755 with a cab. My question is how to set up the parking brake. Right now the brakes work fine, but you pull the parking brake lever back and let your foot off it doesn't hold a thing. Could you give me some tips to set this up properly? Or is there something broken. Thanks in advance for all of your help.

Re(1): 1755 parking brake

IP: 75.104.182.198 Posted on December 21, 2011 at 08:06:53 PM by Larry Harsin

Check the linkage and see......... there should be instructions to set that, in your Operator's Manual. There are adjusters under the pop-off covers on each brake housing. They are secured with a 1/2 bolt that uses a 3/4" wrench. You have to loosen the lock nut, then turn the adjusting screw in with an Allen wrench. You have to adjust them so that each side is equal. The lever should be about half way up on the quadrant. That is where it should be engaged and locked. Larry


oliver 55

IP: 173.118.116.78 Posted on December 20, 2011 at 10:25:35 PM by Scott Schultz

Hi Larry , my neighbor and I bought a 1958 55 we love this old tractor but every time we mow or use it she keeps cutting out on us .we choke it and it starts right back up but then quits again. We took the air intake hose off the carb and that seemed to help for awhile but its still doing it when it gets under a load! Any suggestions would be great. Also we already had the carb tuned and were told it is good....

Re(1): oliver 55

IP: 75.104.182.198 Posted on December 21, 2011 at 08:03:08 PM by Larry Harsin

It is either lack of fuel or the spark is weak. You might have a coil getting weak, when it gets warm. If the coil checks out o.k., you may have something in the wiring to the coil that is breaking down when it gets warmed up. Larry


880 power booster

IP: 76.164.146.224 Posted on December 17, 2011 at 03:45:18 PM by Bruce Schulz

Looking to omit the power booster/gear reduction unit on the front of the transmission on an 880 Need to know what parts are needed and availability

Re(1): 880 power booster

IP: 75.104.182.198 Posted on December 18, 2011 at 08:35:30 PM by Larry Harsin

You'll need to get the transmission input shaft, the clutch shaft, the coupler and the housing that holds the seal over the input shaft. Larry


1650 oil pump

IP: 76.3.44.91 Posted on December 16, 2011 at 07:02:31 PM by justin gravitt

I am rebuilding the engine on my early 1650 diesel and was wondering what if anything needed to be done on the oil pump the little I ran it before I tore it apart the pump seemed to have good pressure. Thank You.

Re(1): 1650 oil pump

IP: 75.104.168.136 Posted on December 17, 2011 at 12:50:42 PM by Larry Harsin

I would check it, but it will probably be o.k. Larry


Oliver 77 PTO

IP: 209.163.118.35 Posted on December 15, 2011 at 03:53:02 PM by Blaine Wiley

My pto jumps out after I engauge it. If I hold it in manually for a minute, it will stay engauged. I replaced the clutch disk and the shims seem correct. There seems to be a little end play in the clutch sleeve. I pulled the whole pto clutch out to figure this problem out. any suggestions are apreciated.

Re(1): Oliver 77 PTO

IP: 75.104.168.136 Posted on December 15, 2011 at 10:15:25 PM by Larry Harsin

I think that if it keeps doing that, I would check where the rollers roll on the ramp in there. You may have to take the cover off of the clutch and put the assembly in a press and rotate the part that the rollers move on. It is in the rear part of the clutch cover. Just rotate it where the rollers run on that clutch cover. They get worn there in that little place and if you can just move it a bit, sometimes it will take care of it. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 77 PTO

IP: 69.72.115.165 Posted on December 16, 2011 at 02:27:35 PM by Blaine Wiley

Thanks Larry, I inspected it and found three small rollers that were groved pretty bad. The plate the rollers press against had a little wear under one roller.


1964 550 Diesel - Looking for a used head

IP: 67.233.204.233 Posted on December 13, 2011 at 07:17:33 PM by Mike McIntosh

Larry, Just got my 64 550 Diesel apart and the #4 cylinder is gouged out and they magna-fluxed it and it has what they say is a crack through the whole head so it is no good. Do you know where I might find a decent one ? My mechanic is checking with Kent but thought you may know of others if he doesn't have one. Thanks

Re(1): 1964 550 Diesel - Looking for a used head

IP: 75.104.168.136 Posted on December 14, 2011 at 06:59:33 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have a used head for that. You can check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or Maibach Tractor 800-808-9934. Larry


rod bolt torque

IP: 76.3.41.8 Posted on December 12, 2011 at 06:40:43 PM by Justin Gravitt

I have a manual that says 53-58 ft lbs but then someone wrote next to that 43-47 ft lbs can you tell me what it should be this is a early model 1650 diesel.Thanks for the help.

Re(1): rod bolt torque

IP: 75.104.168.136 Posted on December 13, 2011 at 06:55:38 AM by Larry Harsin

It should be 43 - 47. Larry


18-27

IP: 166.205.14.183 Posted on December 10, 2011 at 06:20:11 PM by joe

I recently purchased an Oliver Hart-Parr 18-27 and the serial number tag is missing. Is there anyway to identify what year it is without the tag? Casting numbers? Thanks.

Re(1): 18-27

IP: 75.104.168.158 Posted on December 11, 2011 at 07:54:15 AM by Larry Harsin

Some of the castings, like the engine block, usually has a casting date on it. Also, sometimes there is a casting date on the bottom of the transmission. Larry


880 Power Steering

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on December 7, 2011 at 03:03:35 PM by Dave

I have an 880 with wide front and what I believe is factory power steering. This unit has no mechanical connection between the steering wheel and the steering box below the radiator. I seem to have turned the front wheels to the left and they appear to be stuck. I cannot free them up. The pump seems to be working and the belt does not slip. The steering wheel will turn just a little maybe 1/8 of a turn but the front wheels (wide front) seem to be stuck all the way to the left. I will not be able to use the tractor (no steering) until I get it fixed. The power steering pump was rebuilt about a year ago. Everything has been working good until today. Any ideas that I can try? Thanks Dave

Re(1): 880 Power Steering

IP: 75.104.168.247 Posted on December 9, 2011 at 07:33:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I would think it would be something mechanical in the front end itself. Like maybe one of the linkages is over center or something, causing it to lock up. This is the first thing I would check. Larry

Re(2): 880 Power Steering

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on December 12, 2011 at 08:19:51 PM by Dave

You were correct in your assessment. The front steering arm is bent causing the ty rod to catch on the front axel diagonal brace which made the steering lock up. With a couple of pry bars we were able to get it lose. I need to replace the left side steering arm on the 880 wide front because it is damaged. Do you know where I can find one? Thanks so much for your help. Dave

Re(3): 880 Power Steering

IP: 75.104.168.136 Posted on December 14, 2011 at 09:17:39 PM by Larry Harsin

I have some, Give me a call. 712-362-2966. Larry


valves

IP: 76.3.47.56 Posted on December 6, 2011 at 06:45:35 PM by Justin Gravitt

I am rebuilding my 1650 diesel engine and was taking the valves out to look them over and lap them I do not see any valve guide seals on them is that normal. And how much clearance can be in the valve guides before they need to be replaced?

Re(1): valves

IP: 75.104.168.247 Posted on December 9, 2011 at 07:31:22 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is normal. Intake guides on that particular engine seldom need to be replaced. If the valve stems appear to be good and the valves aren't very loose in the head, I'd use them as is. The exhaust guides are usually in need of replacement in that engine model, because they are shorter and run much hotter. Larry


Slow 1555 hydraulics

IP: 71.10.61.209 Posted on December 5, 2011 at 09:59:20 AM by Tom Johnson

Hi, I'm writing for a friend who has owned a 1555 for 17 years. It has a front end loader with hydraulics powered off of the two rear disconnects. It has always operated slowly. He was told that there are ports near the hydraulic filter with higher flow capability. He would have to add control valves. Does it make sense that there are higher flow ports? Is there any other explaination for slower than expected hydraulic flow?

Re(1): Slow 1555 hydraulics

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 6, 2011 at 08:13:02 AM by Larry Harsin

He can use the Power Beyond with a separate loader valve and that would help a bit. But, if he wants to have faster action with his loader, he should put a separate pump to operate the loader, on the power take off. Larry


99 lp

IP: 70.137.9.84 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 04:45:49 PM by jack

my 99 oliver looks like it is factory propane but i cant find any info on how many propane 99 were made

Re(1): 99 lp

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 4, 2011 at 05:08:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think there were any of them built LP at the factory. I believe that they were all conversions. Larry


99 oliver

IP: 69.8.51.85 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 09:39:46 AM by jack

serial number on 99 oliver engine 4cyl 514657c66 517387c66 what year model are these and are their parts interchangeable with each other

Re(1): 99 oliver

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 12:46:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Serial Number 514657 was built in 1948. Serial Number 517387 was built in 1950. Their parts will interchange. Larry


Oliver 550 engine bolt torque spec

IP: 75.241.117.242 Posted on December 2, 2011 at 09:34:56 AM by Randall Bennett

Could you tell me what the torque spec is for the rod bolts and head bolts? i'm rebuilding the engine and a 1959 oliver 550 that my fater inlaw purchased new. Thanks Randy

Re(1): Oliver 550 engine bolt torque spec

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 08:13:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Rod bolts are 45 and head bolts are 100. The main bearing cap bolts are 100 also. Larry


super 77 deisel

IP: 173.85.64.204 Posted on December 1, 2011 at 12:49:20 PM by josh

we are wanting to build motor bigger they said they can turn the crank and increase the piston bore to 4inch do u know where we can get rods and pistons thanks for your help

Re(1): super 77 deisel

IP: 75.104.169.230 Posted on December 3, 2011 at 08:12:27 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND going that far on a S77 diesel. I wouldn't go bigger than a 3 5/8 bore on a S77. I acquired a 77 diesel with 3 3/4 pistons and I had to put it back to 3 5/8 before I could get it to run properly. Larry


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