"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - December, 2012 Archives


2255 3 speed leak

IP: 206.144.36.19 Posted on December 31, 2012 at 08:24:46 PM by Dan Blum

I have a 1974 2255 with O/U hydralashift. There is a continuous loss of ATF fluid with no visible external leak. I assume it is leaking into the transaxle. Is this likely? If so is it just a seal/o-ring replacement or are there other concerns?

Re(1): 2255 3 speed leak

IP: 75.105.32.38 Posted on January 2, 2013 at 08:58:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rick (Shop Foreman) at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Tom in parts dept. will also know the answer to this. Larry


Oliver 1600 overhaul

IP: 184.56.170.0 Posted on December 31, 2012 at 02:23:15 PM by Brandon Cook

I am currently rebuilding my 1600. I would like to know your opinion on what overhaul kits are the best. The tractor already has 3.750" sleeves and have been looking at the 3.875" kits. Is there anything I should know before buying? Also where do you suggest I buy the kit from? I also found a bent push rod on the cylinder closest to the water pump. Where can I source this?

Re(1): Oliver 1600 overhaul

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on January 2, 2013 at 08:56:36 AM by Larry Harsin

I'd recommend going with the same bore as what you have. I'd check with Korves Oliver for a kit. 618-939-6681. I think I have a push rod if you let me know what length your's is. Email me. Larry


input shaft bearings

IP: 216.176.88.14 Posted on December 30, 2012 at 08:08:31 PM by Steve Coventry

The input shaft front bearing is loose in my 1650 gas .I know i have to pull the motor and hydro. then pull the hyd tank I think. to get to the bearings Is this not right. thank you Steve ps you really do us a great service

Re(1): input shaft bearings

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on January 2, 2013 at 08:53:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Those bearings on the front of the transmission has a retaining plate. That plate has shims on it and you can adjust the bearings on the input shaft, by removing some of those shims. You'll have to pull the engine to do this. Larry


2255 stuck in 4th gear

IP: 99.19.101.142 Posted on December 28, 2012 at 07:08:26 PM by Jon Steiner

My 2255 is stuck in 4th gear. Cant get it out, not even neutral. Went into gear slick as can be, no noises, has always worked very well. I have jacked up the rear wheels to unload them, popped the stick out, the ball on the end looks decent, and looked down into the trans with a bore scope, looks clean. I am ready to pop the trans cover off. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Re(1): 2255 stuck in 4th gear

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on December 29, 2012 at 08:42:03 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you are going to have to take the trans. cover off. You'll have to see what you can find. Make sure your trans. hasn't run low on lube. Check to be sure the lube pump is working. Larry


Brand of engine

IP: 70.194.1.174 Posted on December 27, 2012 at 08:52:35 AM by Jerry Shannonb

All you help recently has been put to good use. The solenoid was replaced without a hitch. How can I tell if my 1855 has a Herc or Wauk engine. By the block number? You found it to be a 1974. Model #685-22546 and Serial #247655-685. Is there a way to determine what engine this is. I assumed it was a Wauk but someone told me it was a Herc. Thank you.

Re(1): Brand of engine

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 28, 2012 at 08:17:45 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1855's were all built with Waukesha engines. If you have one with a Herc., it is a repower. Larry


Oliver 55 or 550 ?

IP: 74.143.145.109 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 02:03:08 PM by TIM

In refrence to my earlier post i think i might have a 550 is there a easy way to tell the diff

Re(1): Oliver 55 or 550 ?

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on December 28, 2012 at 08:20:00 AM by Larry Harsin

The 550 has a different nose, different sheet metal and a different front grill. Larry


Oliver super 55

IP: 74.143.145.109 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 12:47:45 PM by TIM

Got my first oliver and a lil confused the manual states that i should have a transmission dipstick in rear by 3 pt hitch but there is a breather there instead but i have 2 roung caps in front of seat one next to message check oil daily with dip stick i am assuming this is hydolic fluid and another one in front of that with no dip stick and no markings is this the trans mission fill ???

Re(1): oliver super 55

IP: 97.73.64.146 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 05:28:00 PM by larry from maryland

Yes that is right and you have a s55 if the holes are aranged as you say above.A 550 would have the hydrolic fill behind the seat.

Re(2): oliver super 55

IP: 108.45.84.211 Posted on December 27, 2012 at 03:11:10 PM by Larry Kruse

You could possibly have a Super 55 hydraulic system on a 550. They are interchangeable.


Intermittent spark

IP: 99.42.169.208 Posted on December 25, 2012 at 04:05:30 PM by Jonathan Adkins

I have a 1964 Oliver 550 gasoline with an intermittent or inconsistent spark problem. The tractor starts just fine but runs very rough. I used a plug tester and found that the intermittent spark affects all cylinders. I have replaced with 4 new plugs with correct gap, new rotor and points (correct gap) and condenser. Compression is 125, 120, 120 and 130. No coolant in cylinders or in oil. The distributor cap looks good with no signs of carbon or arcing. Runs about two seconds smooth for every one second rough. What should I test or replace next? Key switch? Coil? Plug wires? Distributor cap? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Re(1): Intermittent spark

IP: 97.73.64.154 Posted on December 25, 2012 at 05:33:08 PM by larry from maryland It sounds like a clasic case of a bad coil.

Re(2): Intermittent spark

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 08:00:52 AM by Larry Harsin

It could be any one of those causes. You'll have to find the cause and make the necessary change. Check the spark plug wires first. Larry

Re(3): Intermittent spark

IP: 206.193.242.100 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 12:27:20 PM by Dale in Pa

Hot wire the coil to eliminate the switch.If all cyl's show int spark i wouldnt suspect wires,except coil wire. Can you use tester on coil wire,or clamp on timing lite would show int spark.Then coil or int short in dist.

Re(4): Intermittent spark

IP: 99.42.169.208 Posted on December 28, 2012 at 12:57:36 PM by Jonathan Adkins

Thank you to all of you that provided helpful advice. I replaced the coil and it is running great. I learned something. I always thought that a coil either worked or it didn't. I didn't realize it could be weak or intermittent. Thanks again for your technical expertise.


88 brake seal

IP: 208.84.173.252 Posted on December 25, 2012 at 11:17:57 AM by Jeremy

I got new brake pads for my band brakes for Christmas. I took the cover off and it is a oil mess. How do I go about changing the brake seal? There is a huge nut about 3 1/2 inches across. Do I some how thread that out and pull the brake drum? Will this allow me to get at the seal? Can I use the screw method (screw in 3 or 4 screws through the seal and it will slowly back the seal out)to remove the seal? Also what is the trick to turn that big nut? This is on a 1948 old style 88 standard. Thanks in advance for all of your advice.

Re(1): 88 brake seal

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 07:58:26 AM by Larry Harsin

I take a piece of hex shaft or square shaft whichever, and make a tool to turn that nut out. There is an O ring that the nut seals against inside that bull pinion. The Oliver part number for it is K 1117, but it is no longer available through AGCO. You'll have to obtain an O ring locally for this. As far as the seal is concerned, you can remove the 6 bolts that hold the seal retainer and then you can replace the seal. Call O'Brien Co. Impl. for the O rings and the seal. 800-320-6224. Larry


Oliver tractor/david brown engine

IP: 184.9.162.133 Posted on December 24, 2012 at 06:40:22 PM by JEFF

need exhaust/intake manifold.NOT SURE WHAT SIZE OLIVER OR YEAR MFG.BETWEEN 1960 AND 1963.CANT FIND A SERIAL NUMBER ON THE FRAME. THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD IS RUSTED OUT.CANT FIND ANY INFO ON THIS TRACTOR AS FAR AS PARTS GO.THEY BOLT TOGETHER AND HAS A DONE DRAFT CARB.

Re(1): Oliver tractor/david brown engine

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 07:53:48 AM by Larry Harsin

Case IH is now associated with David Brown. Check with them and see if they can find some parts for you. Larry


Steps for 1855

IP: 70.194.1.194 Posted on December 24, 2012 at 12:08:26 PM by jerry shannon

Hi Larry. Thanks for the past help it has been great. Do you know if the 1855 came standard with steps? My 1974 unit does not have any. I do not have a cab or ROPS on it either. Just curious if I can find steps for it. There is a grab bar on the left side fender by where the Light goes. Thanks.

Re(1): Steps for 1855

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 26, 2012 at 07:52:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. He has steps. There was at least one step on it and possibly two. Larry


Cyl sleeve protusion

IP: 216.176.88.6 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 09:13:33 PM by Steve Coventry

LARRY IS IT POSSIBLE TO CHECK PROTUSION WITH OUT REMOVING THE SLEEVE SEALS ON A 1600 GAS ENG. I TORQUED THE BOLTS AND WASHER WITH OUT REMOVING THE SEALS. IS THIS ALRIGHT. THEY CHECKED FROM 1TO 2 THOUSAND

Re(1): Cyl sleeve protusion

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on December 22, 2012 at 08:45:07 AM by Larry Harsin

That is o.k. That is what I do. I have never had to shim a 190 engine block. They have always been good. Larry


70 Front Crankshaft Seal

IP: 160.36.201.157 Posted on December 20, 2012 at 12:45:46 PM by David C Baker

My 1948 Oliver Standard (S/N 314653) is throwing oil from what appears to be a leak around the front seal on the crankshaft. My Shop Manual is not detailed on this repair, saying most about the rear seal, which we don't think is leaking. Question: Anything to do but "dig in" on this? Are there modern rubber seals for the replacement? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Re(1): 70 Front Crankshaft Seal

IP: 69.221.175.66 Posted on December 20, 2012 at 01:09:28 PM by Terry Allen

Have a 70 RC. It uses a modern seal (PN B-126, rubber seal no CR21134) and a felt dust seal in front of the rubber seal. You must remove the fan drive pulley to gain access to the seal. Refer to page 46 in the parts manual.

Re(2): 70 Front Crankshaft Seal

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 06:39:03 AM by Larry Harsin

Just remove the front crankshaft pulley and you should be able to replace the seal. The info given by Terry Allen is correct. Larry


Fuel filter conversion

IP: 70.194.33.13 Posted on December 20, 2012 at 07:46:05 AM by jerry shannon

Larry. Do they make a conversion piece for changing the fuel filter to a spin on type? If so can you direct me to whom has the kit or parts. Thank you.

Re(1): fuel filter conversion

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 06:35:07 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with Tom or Cal at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry


1650 hydrapower leak

IP: 173.248.9.9 Posted on December 19, 2012 at 05:32:06 PM by karl

Is it possible to replace the O ring on the spool that shifts from direct to hydrapower without having to pull the unit off of the tractor?

Re(1): 1650 hydrapower leak

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 06:33:33 AM by Larry Harsin

No. You will have to take it apart to do this. Larry


1850 rear end lube

IP: 67.207.251.190 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 08:25:21 PM by Jack

Is an 1850 trans and rearend pressure fed oil lube or splash lube like the older models

Re(1): 1850 rear end lube

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 06:32:35 AM by Larry Harsin

It is pressure fed. Larry


1550 LP

IP: 209.40.139.102 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 06:13:02 PM by Bob Taylor

I have 2 1550 factory LP tractors. Where can I find out how many were made.

Re(1): 1550 LP

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on December 21, 2012 at 06:31:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Check with the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. I don't think they kept track of how many of each kind of fuel uses they made. Larry


Oliver 1655 Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.132.137.143 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 09:54:41 AM by Kent

The Operator's Manual calls for 30-3023990 fluid and indicates that it is a "special" fluid that ensures proper power steering unit operation. What would be a satisfactory replacement from a tractor supply store that won't break the bank?

Re(1): Oliver 1655 Hydraulic Fluid

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 19, 2012 at 08:34:49 AM by Larry Harsin

I use a med. non-foaming hydraulic oil. Larry


Aftermarket 3pt

IP: 173.30.131.95 Posted on December 16, 2012 at 08:47:22 PM by Rich

I have a 770 I've been thinking of putting an aftermarket 3pt hitch on to make it more useful. The hitch kits I've seen bolt onto the axle housing. Are the axle housings stong enough to handle the extra stress created by adding the aftermarket hitches? It would be used mostly for a 4 row cultivator, to move round bales up to maybe 1,200 pounds, and a blade for the driveway.

Re(1): Aftermarket 3pt

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 07:57:46 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. The hitch from Saginaw Tractor Parts is a good hitch. 810-638-5787. But, yes, these hitches are adequate. Larry

Re(2): Aftermarket 3pt

IP: 173.30.131.95 Posted on December 18, 2012 at 09:30:18 PM by Rich

I didn't want to overload the rear axle housing with the aftermarket hitch, sounds like it wouldn't be a problem for what I plan to do. Thank you for your help.


hard/ non starting

IP: 166.182.3.235 Posted on December 16, 2012 at 02:23:59 PM by Robert Clark

I have an 1800 gas that I use as a loader tractor. It does not get used alot and is hard to start after it sits, sometimes will not start until after cranking and messing around for a long time. It is getting spark, points are good and set correct, getting gas to carb, good suction up to engine, yet the plugs are dry. what do you think? what are the easiest possibilities and then we can move up to camshaft and timing gears. still I would think the plugs would be wet if the timing was just off.

Re(1): hard/ non starting

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 07:55:25 AM by Larry Harsin

You may have a vacuum leak somewhere so that it doesn't draw the gas up into the engine properly. It could be bad manifold gaskets. This is the first thing that comes to mind. I have seen where the heat chamber had a pin hole so that it didn't have enough vacuum, Another thought, make sure your choke butterfly is closing completely, when you pull the choke on. Larry


1855 year by model number

IP: 70.194.2.88 Posted on December 16, 2012 at 08:22:20 AM by stonehands

I looked thgrough the archive but could not find this message earlier. I bought an 1855. The plate says it is model #685-22546 and the serial # is 247655-685. Can you tell me the year of tractor please.

Re(1): 1855 year by model number

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 07:52:05 AM by Larry Harsin

Your 1855 was built in 1974. Larry


1550

IP: 108.79.212.31 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:56:28 PM by tom

bought a 1550 and it didn't come with a 3pt hitch, was that a normal way they were sold? also what size and make engine is in it? it is gas.

Re(1): 1550

IP: 99.196.64.57 Posted on December 15, 2012 at 09:22:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Most 1550's came with a 3 pt. hitch, some didn't. The engine is a 185 family of engine, such as a 770 would have. However, the 1550 has 3 5/8" pistons instead of 3 1/2". It has a 230 cu.in engine. Larry


60 steering

IP: 64.12.116.207 Posted on December 13, 2012 at 09:35:07 AM by Terry

Looking for OEM old stock steering shafts for 60. HS-753-A and HS-753-B Have worn out u-joints and having problem finding suitable replacements that have sufficient clearance as originals are smaller than what is available now. Suggestions, Ideas??

Re(1): 60 steering

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:55:21 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't have these. Check with Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. Larry


Glow plug on 1855

IP: 70.199.120.199 Posted on December 12, 2012 at 02:50:44 PM by Stonehands

Hello Larry. Thanks for the help on the brakes. Adjusted them and they are great. Can you tell me if there is a method to check if the glow plug (as I call it) is working. On cold mornings it does not appear to have any impact and must use the block heater to wake the beast up. Thank you.

Re(1): Glow plug on 1855

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:53:54 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Get a test light and see if it is putting power to the heater coil. Larry


Lift Pump 880 Diesel

IP: 69.9.218.95 Posted on December 11, 2012 at 08:04:01 PM by Dave

I really enjoy reading "ask the Oliver mechanic" message board. I have a couple of questions. I have an 880 diesel that has what I think is a weak lift pump. Is it possible that the tractor will run on a full fuel tank with gravity feed and when the tank is close to empty it may fail? I have ruined some of the rubber gromet (or compression fitting) connections on the fuel lines and am wandering where I can locate some new rubber gromets for the fuel lines. I may need to replace the fuel lift pump. Can I find an original replacement or should I go with an electric one? I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks for your help.

Re(1): Lift Pump 880 Diesel

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:52:56 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get a new repair kit from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. You can get the rubber sleeves for the fuel lines from your AGCO Dealer. If you wish, you can put an electric pump on it and eliminate the old diaphram pump. You can get the electric pump from your AGCO Dealer. Yes, your tractor will run with a full tank of fuel with a weak pump. Larry


66 engine blocks

IP: 24.50.65.223 Posted on December 11, 2012 at 05:49:21 PM by sam

I want to know if the oliver 66 gas engine block is the same of oliver super 66 gas

Re(1): 66 engine blocks

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:48:43 AM by Larry Harsin

They are not exactly the same. I'm not sure that a 66 block will work in a S66. But, I am sure that a S66 block will work in a 66. The rods may not clear if you put the big rod in the early block. Larry


Small Part help - 1800

IP: 184.20.238.221 Posted on December 10, 2012 at 11:04:11 PM by Josh Brown

I am looking for the PTO lever engagement rod spring for my 1963 Oliver 1800. It is the heavy duty spring that holds the PTO clutch engaged once you release the lever. I've checked with several places that sell Oliver parts and they either have no clue what I am asking about or say it isn't available. Anyone know where I can get one?

Re(1): Small Part help

IP: 75.104.160.36 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:46:28 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get the spring from Korves Oliver 618-939-6681. You need to get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. 641-228-1099. Then, it will tell you how to adjust your PTO, which you also need to do. Larry


Paint color 1855

IP: 70.194.6.165 Posted on December 10, 2012 at 11:36:05 AM by stonehands

Cleaning up an Oliver 1855. Can you tell me the correct paint code or color for the green and white?

Re(1): Paint color 1855

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on December 14, 2012 at 07:43:12 AM by Larry Harsin

The 1855 was Meadow Green and Clover White. I get these from my AGCO Dealer. Otherwise, contact Lyle Dumont at email: oliver@lisco.com Larry


1855 brakes

IP: 70.194.7.116 Posted on December 8, 2012 at 03:19:54 PM by Jerry Shannon

I just bought an 1855. How do I adjust the brakes. On one side you can smell brakes or clutch smell and one side gets hot. I think it is dragging.

Re(1): 1855 brakes

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 9, 2012 at 03:18:57 PM by Larry Harsin

It may be the adjustment for the parking brake is probably adjusted up too tight. To adjust this, pop the cap off of the brake housing on each side. There is a lock-nut with a set-screw on it. You need to get an Operator's Manual. It shows you this and lots more about your tractor. Call the Museum at Charles City to get one 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(3): 1855 brakes

IP: 70.194.31.7 Posted on December 11, 2012 at 07:45:23 AM by jerry shannon

Adjusted them just fine. On another note, can you tell me if there is any indicator to let you know your glow plug is working. On these cold mornings I depress the bulb on the dash but has no effect on the old 1855's ability to wake up. It has an inblock heater that I now am using. Is the glow plug on a fuse or is it hard to swap out?

Re(4): 1855 brakes

IP: 75.104.161.110 Posted on December 13, 2012 at 06:48:05 AM by Larry Harsin

I would use a test light. Depress the switch and hook the test light to the cable that goes to the heater. That will tell you if you are getting power to the element. Also, the solenoid should click when you depress the preheater button. If you decide to replace the solenoid, disconnect the battery, so it won't short. Larry

Re(5): 1855 brakes

IP: 70.194.7.109 Posted on December 18, 2012 at 08:24:15 AM by Jerry Shannon

Thank you. Did that and found and it appears that the solonoid is bad. Is there a specific solonoid to replace it or is it the same unit used on the starter? When looking up parts, I do not find one one for the pre heater. They only list the starter solonoid. thanks again.

Re(6): 1855 brakes

IP: 70.194.2.88 Posted on December 16, 2012 at 02:45:50 PM by Jerry Shannon

Thank you again Larry. Will give it a shot. Good advise on the battery being disconnected.


550 brakes

IP: 75.221.204.252 Posted on December 8, 2012 at 08:17:07 AM by Mike

My brakes lock up if you just touch the pedal. Either side. The only way to unlock them is to go the other direction. They are clean and dry inside. I tried new friction discs in there and that didnt do a thing for it. Ideas ??

Re(1): 550 brakes

IP: 75.104.160.54 Posted on December 9, 2012 at 03:16:09 PM by Larry Harsin

The actuators may be sticky or you may have to have new springs put on the actuators. Larry

Re(2): 550 brakes

IP: 64.53.54.82 Posted on December 20, 2012 at 10:35:49 PM by J. Mash

In addition to what Larry said, your drum housing bolts are probably too tight. It will distort the drums and make the brakes grab and stick. It will also overheat the brake discs and ruin them if not corrected


1550 wiring

IP: 174.20.142.21 Posted on December 5, 2012 at 11:36:13 AM by Floyd Hampton

Just bought a 1550 and none of the gauges work. The wiring has been cobbled together.Looking at the wiring diag 2 white wires,one from the starter and one from the coil go into the harness and only one comes out going to I term on switch.Can you explain this to me.Thanks

Re(1): 1550 wiring

IP: 97.73.64.151 Posted on December 5, 2012 at 11:47:38 AM by larry from maryland

If you have a gas one wire on the starter selonid gives full voltage to the coil for starting so it does NOT go back to the switch, it bypasses the resitor to give full voltage.

Re(2): 1550 wiring

IP: 174.20.142.21 Posted on December 5, 2012 at 02:44:50 PM by Floyd Hampton

Now it makes sense,Thanks very much

Re(3): 1550 wiring

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 9, 2012 at 03:15:03 PM by Larry Harsin

The ignition wire has a resistor built into the wiring harness. Larry


1650

IP: 75.108.86.227 Posted on December 3, 2012 at 10:46:21 PM by KIM

Got a 1967 Oliver 1650 Diesel. I am going to install a new Injection Pump, the manual says remove the viewing plate to line up the timing marks on the Flywheel but I don't see any marks on the Flywheel, I see the pointer end but can't find any lines that look like a mark for timing, is there another way to get the engine in TDC? What procedure is the best for installing a Injection Pump for this tractor

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 4, 2012 at 06:07:06 AM by Larry Harsin

Take the little timing window off of the injection pump. It is 2 screws on a little plate that is about an inch long. Turn the engine with a wrench until the two lines in the injection pump line up. Now, look in the timing hole of the fly wheel and you should be able to see the timing marks. Don't move the engine now and you can remove the pump. Leave the engine alone until after you install your new pump. Larry

Re(1): 1650

IP: 75.108.86.227 Posted on December 8, 2012 at 10:55:12 AM by KIM

The Injection Pump was removed and the Timing marks were not at TDC, so now I need to retime the Pump with the Tractor Engine. What is the best way to do this? Thank you.

Re(4): 1650

IP: 75.105.32.53 Posted on December 9, 2012 at 03:13:20 PM by Larry Harsin

Remove the valve cover, turn the engine watching #6 cylinder. When the exhaust closes and the intake just starts to open, the engine is on TDC #1. Then, you look at the flywheel and find the marks. Larry

Re(5): 1650

IP: 75.108.86.227 Posted on December 16, 2012 at 11:04:29 PM by KIM

I think I found the Timing Marks but they appear to be very Small. Could you tell me what t the Timing Marks would look like??

Re(6): 1650

IP: 75.105.32.39 Posted on December 17, 2012 at 08:00:47 AM by Larry Harsin

TDC is stamped right on the mark. Larry


1750 Oliver dist.

IP: 166.182.3.41 Posted on December 1, 2012 at 07:17:10 PM by Steven Van Gompel

I have a 1750 Oliver tractor with a mallory distributor. I have installed new pioints,cap, rotor, wires, you name it. It willl run perfect for about 2 months, and then it will start backfireing. I want to put a new distrubutor on the engine. What do you recommend?

Re(1): 1750 Oliver dist.

IP: 75.107.96.58 Posted on December 2, 2012 at 07:21:36 AM by Larry Harsin

At the present time, the Mallory is the only one available. Larry


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