"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid Dec., 2000 through Jan., 2001 Archives
"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Mid Dec., 2000 through Jan., 2001 Archives
Perkins
Posted by huck on January 31, 2001 at 19:26:47: IP Address: 12.75.221.117
What does it take to put a Perkins motor in place of a 310 in a 1755 other than the frame switch.
Re: Perkins
Posted by Shepherd on February 02, 2001 at 17:09:20: IP Address: 216.76.116.101
In Reply to: Perkins posted by huck on January 31, 2001 at 19:26:47:
We have several shops around here that have repowered the 55 series tractors with cummins or perkins. The frame must be switched, the cooler lines must be run different(replace the steel lines with rubber so you can put them where they need to be), you need to find an 1850 hood-- the exhaust and intake are in different places, and the radiator hook up is a little different. There are some other small things, but it is not too bad. I helped do one once on a 1655. It helps if you have a place that has some old bone tractors around to get some misc parts off of.
The problem is your 1755 is worth very little with a busted engine to sell, and I feel it is not worth putting a lot of money into the 310-- it is a fair engine at best-- Find a shop that will do the conversion for you or talk to someone who has done more than me and put the 354 into your tractor. It is well worth it to change the engines and chances are the rest of the tractor is fine. The next time my 1855 gets sick the 310 is coming out and I am installing a 5.9L cummins. I am not a big fan of the 310, if you cant tell, but I love those big Ollies.
Re: Perkins
Posted by Larry Harsin on February 01, 2001 at 07:57:25: IP Address: 209.163.7.33
In Reply to: Perkins posted by huck on January 31, 2001 at 19:26:47:
I never have done it, but it involves a lot of things you never think of. It will involve a lot of searching for parts. The radiator is different, the steering lines and cooler lines are different. Etc. Etc. My suggestion would be to buy a junker 1850 to get a lot of the parts you will need. Personally, I would go get a good working tractor and forget about it. Larry
s10
Posted by clinton on January 30, 2001 at 16:45:58: IP Address: 172.164.247.184
I am thinking about getting a 1994 or 1995 chevy s10 and I am wondering about how much in cost and how much of a problem would it be to put a 350 short block engine in it instead of a v6 please let me know asap
thanks Clinton
Re: s10
Posted by Richard on January 31, 2001 at 07:36:46: IP Address: 63.166.22.17
In Reply to: s10 posted by clinton on January 30, 2001 at 16:45:58:
May want to consider using a complete engine. A short block will be mighty low on compression without the heads (grin) I know you meant Small block..... Sorry, I had to get smart... Anyways
This is a common practice. There are adapter kits on the market for this. Try searching on the internet for these. I know we used corvette pulleys, damper, and waterpump to help reduce the length.
Front Spring work will be needed, and if your going to hotrod it (why else would a small block v8 be put into an S10) then you may want to look at the rear end and consider going with a narrowed 10 or 12 bolt. I known a few that left the stock rear end in but I'm not sure what the life span of it was.
I've seen the the S10's done but I used to like doing the Vega. The first Vega I did, the rear end made it 1 block. Couldn't tell if it was the rear end smoking or the tires (grin). Used Nova springs, Narrowed 12 bolt, and electric fans.
Re: s10
Posted by Don on January 30, 2001 at 23:15:40: IP Address: 152.163.213.211
In Reply to: s10 posted by clinton on January 30, 2001 at 16:45:58:
I have a few freinds who have done that, but they had to cut the firewall and push it back, and then there was hardly any room to get at the engine because the engine compartment wasnt the biggest. Also, if it's a 4-wheel drive, it'll never happen, the tranny gets in the way.
88 head and valves
Posted by Curt Smith on January 30, 2001 at 11:51:32: IP Address: 206.230.115.87
working on 88 gas stock puller and have head off --need to know the original thickness of head and how much you can safely take off? also would like to go to bigger valves (3.75 ' std piston with 1650 carb and manifolds) to help with the pulling. what valve do you reccommend or how much bigger should i go ? do you know of anyone who would have a pulling profile for the cam??
thanks for any coments
Curt
Re: 88 head and valves
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 30, 2001 at 14:08:33: IP Address: 209.163.7.40
In Reply to: 88 head and valves posted by Curt Smith on January 30, 2001 at 11:51:32:
Curt. I don't know. Contact your local automotive machine shop and ask them. I'm not into tractor pulling. If you would call Arnold Motor Supply at 712-262-6430, they could answer all these questions. Larry
310 vs 283?
Posted by Hal on January 29, 2001 at 17:42:12: IP Address: 207.127.150.6
What are the problems with the 310 engine? Reading here and elsewhere it seems the 283 was ok but not the 310. Was the 310 only used in the 1755 and had no turbo? Did this remain a problem until it became a White 2-85? I looked at a 2-85 last spring and I believe it had a perkins. Also on the tractor with the perkins there were 2 holes cut thru the frame to get at the rear motor mount bolts; is this the way they came from the factory or do you think someone did this to get at them easier? Thanks.
Re: 310 vs 283?
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 29, 2001 at 17:57:44: IP Address: 209.163.7.93
In Reply to: 310 vs 283? posted by Hal on January 29, 2001 at 17:42:12:
The 310 engine just did not have enough engine for the power that they were trying to get out of it. Thus it became a short life engine with problems. The 310 was used in the 1755, the 1855 and the 1955. Some people enlarged the oil pan on these engines to increase the oil capacity and it helped. It was just too small an engine to do the work that they were trying to make it do. The 2 holes in the frame were put in at the factory. Larry
Oliver 1650 repairs
Posted by Carl on January 27, 2001 at 20:25:53: IP Address: 64.33.161.3
I am overhauling a 1650 gas tractor. I got new rod bolts. The dealer said you can use any nuts. Wouldn't it be best to use grade 8 nuts rather than just regular soft nuts?
Second question. I took the head to a machine shop they said that four exhaust valves and three intake valves and all of the valve guides were bad. Would it pay to replace all of the valves or is this a waste of money? The valves are quite pricey at about $36 each. Also we are putting new head bolts in. The original bolts are 5 3/8" long. We can only find 5 1/2" grade 8 bolts without going to the dealer. Will the extra 1/8" hurt? Appreciate your reply.
Re: Oliver 1650 repairs
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:56:48: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: Oliver 1650 repairs posted by Carl on January 27, 2001 at 20:25:53:
I'd get the grade 8 nuts and the correct size head bolts from the dealer. Don't put in hardware items. Do you not have the nuts that you took off? I would use them. As far as the valves, do exactly what your machine shop tells you. They know what will work and what won't. Larry
oliver rings
Posted by Drew on January 27, 2001 at 19:01:48: IP Address: 64.12.102.184
Larry i just recieved a new set of rings for my 88 they are oliver rings. My question is about the oil ring it has five parts, a normal pressure spring, hi-pressure spring, the upper and lower steel sections and the cast iron separator, now when i install these[only one pressure spring] do all the gaps aline, I am just talking about the oil ring on the piston, and is there any direction they sould point in referance to the tractor. Thanks for any help.
Re: oliver rings
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:49:28: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: oliver rings posted by Drew on January 27, 2001 at 19:01:48:
I would use the normal pressure ring if the cylinders are not worn very much. Then concerning the gaps, install the expander with the gap aligned with the wrist pin, then the spacer should be installed with the gap opposite the other side of the wrist pin or 180 degrees from the other gap. Then the rails should be installed with the gaps staggered left on one and right on the other approx. 20 degrees from the gap on the spacer. In other words, you definitely do not want the gaps to align.
oliver hart-par 18-27 ser.#102778
Posted by john barnhart on January 25, 2001 at 23:56:52: IP Address: 209.143.60.221
I am looking for 2 exhaust valves for engine can you help me?
Re: oliver hart-par 18-27 ser.#102778
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:42:56: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: oliver hart-par 18-27 ser.#102778 posted by john barnhart on January 25, 2001 at 23:56:52:
Contact Arnold Meyer at 507-372-7788 or Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332. Larry
Hydraulic ?'s
Posted by Ryan on January 25, 2001 at 12:51:43: IP Address: 216.145.134.167
was hoping to get some answers to some questions, hope they aren't too simple.
I have '65 1650 that I am hoping to put a loader on this spring. Can this be
run off the two levers already on the tractor, or will I need a seperate valve?
The loader I am hoping to fit is a westendorf, I say hopefully because I havent
even seen it yet, the brackets are covered by snow, and the guy is in no hurry
to get me the loader numbers. By all accounts it "should" be the right size.
I just cant figure out how I am going to get up force and down force with only
two outputs in the form of quick couplings on the back of my Ollie. Actually,
there are three, but one is controlled by a gate valve on the line. Are there ports
in the hydraulic assembly that I hook into for more lines, or will I need a valve
like I mentioned earlier? I am knew to this, I guess i would still like to be able
to run a dump wagon while i have the loader on, can I do this if I dont want to
run both at once? thanks for any advice,
Ryan
Re: Hydraulic ?'s
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:38:11: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: Hydraulic ?'s posted by Ryan on January 25, 2001 at 12:51:43:
Yes. You can install an external control valve into this 1650 hydraulic system between the hydraulic filter and the power steering flow divider. This is the way I prefer to operate loaders on the 50 series tractors. The loader will operate smoother and more safely. We have a Westendorf unit set up like this. We are asking $1350 for the loader with the valve. Larry
Re: Hydraulic ?'s
Posted by Ryan on January 28, 2001 at 09:13:56: IP Address: 216.145.134.161
In Reply to: Re: Hydraulic ?'s posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:38:11:
still not real clear to me, does this setup mean that
I will use the levers already on my tractor to control
the loader, or will it be a new valve/lever device? is
there a picture of this loader on your site, or do you
have the specs? I am still in the figuring it out stage,
my three point blade has done really well with the snow so
far, but I plan on getting a loader this spring for tree
work and everything else, when weather permits easy installation
work outside.
Thanks,
Ryan
Re: Hydraulic ?'s
Posted by larry Wolfe on January 27, 2001 at 12:19:39: IP Address: 209.244.225.205
In Reply to: Hydraulic ?'s posted by Ryan on January 25, 2001 at 12:51:43:
A 1650 should run a loader. The levers operate 2 double acting circts,one lever runs the 2 hoses on one side. Apparantly someone had a single acting cylinder on one side of your tractor.You will have to add the other hose and coupler. ON this tractor sometimes a single acting cylinder will move or crepe up on you so someone added an extra valve.To operate a remote cylinder you will have to unhook one side with the loader on.
Oliver Super55 headlights
Posted by Super 55 on January 24, 2001 at 22:29:11: IP Address: 216.66.139.39
Larry, My Super 55 doesn't have the original headlights. Someone has a set on ebay, in rough shape. How hard are these to find? Are the lenses hard to find? Did some Super55s have sealed beams? What would a set of lights be worth (whatever's in my wallet?)
Re: Oliver Super55 headlights
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:19:18: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: Oliver Super55 headlights posted by Super 55 on January 24, 2001 at 22:29:11:
Lights are a tough find. I don't have what you need. Contact Korves Bros. at: korves@htc.net or 618-939-8723. Larry
Re: Oliver Super55 headlights
Posted by Paul Stanley on January 29, 2001 at 20:13:09: IP Address: 207.194.87.131
In Reply to: Re: Oliver Super55 headlights posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:19:18:
Thanks Larry, I talked to Marv Korves and he is going to be reproducing some lights this year. I am going to wait for those. I am going to get the top strip,hinges,brass logo plate, and wiring harness from him.
1755/Wuakashaw
Posted by kyle on January 24, 2001 at 19:59:05: IP Address: 12.75.198.186
This might seem like a silly question, but I was wondering if the crankshaft out of a 1960's Wuakashaw gas engine would fit in my 1755 diesel. My 1755 spun three main bearing's and the crank is shot.
Re: 1755/Wuakashaw
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:15:33: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: 1755/Wuakashaw posted by kyle on January 24, 2001 at 19:59:05:
Kyle. I agree with these other guys. The Crankshaft won't work. I would consider a different engine if the price is comparable. Larry
Re: 1755/Wuakashaw
Posted by Shepherd on January 25, 2001 at 09:45:03: IP Address: 216.76.116.101
In Reply to: 1755/Wuakashaw posted by kyle on January 24, 2001 at 19:59:05:
I agree with Don, I dont think that will fit. In my opinon I would replace the 310 Waukashaw with a 354 perkins or a 5.9L cummins before I spent too much money on that 310. These are far superior engines and you can pick one up and have it put in for just a little more than what it will cost you to find a new crank and put an overhaul kit in the 310. Depends on if you want to keep it origional or make it stronger. Just my 2 cents
Re: 1755/Wuakashaw
Posted by Don on January 24, 2001 at 21:21:21: IP Address: 152.163.201.201
In Reply to: 1755/Wuakashaw posted by kyle on January 24, 2001 at 19:59:05:
that is highly doubtful, mainly because the compresion ratio is much higher in a diesel. My dad and I are trying to decide whether or not to buy a 1755 from a guy we know that threw a rod through the block, but i think the crank shaft should still be ok. He gave it a complete overhaul, and when his brother was using it he heard a funny sound but didnt shut it down. ended up ruining the engine. we were either going to put a new engine in it or use it for parts if we did buy it
Oil in the Turbo??
Posted by Shepherd on January 24, 2001 at 12:52:54: IP Address: 216.76.116.101
Hi Larry, just found your page from ytmag board and it looks great. I just purchased a 2150 that has a dead miss followed by a loud hiss through the exhaust and is leaking what appears to be diesel fuel out of the exhaust manifold and the turbo. My first guess is it has a valve hung up and is pumping raw fuel out the exhaust. I am planning on taking off the head and seeing what the extent of the damage is next week. My question is with the turbo charger. Do you think the charger is hurt by the fuel and oil going through it like that?? It appears to be several quarts of fuel & Oil that has passed through it. What are some ways to know if it is hurt??
Thanks
Re: Oil in the Turbo??
Posted by Shepherd again on January 25, 2001 at 09:39:59: IP Address: 216.76.116.101
In Reply to: Oil in the Turbo?? posted by Shepherd on January 24, 2001 at 12:52:54:
Was talking to an Oliver dealer here in Virginia last evening and he told me that the Hurk engines had a bad problem of blowing the head gasket between cylendars and pumping fuel out the exhaust. I told him that is what I appear to have. Simple enough if that is the problem, I will put a head gasket in with fire rings. He did not know if the fuel would damage the charger or not. Any thoughts
Re: Oil in the Turbo??
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 28, 2001 at 07:10:25: IP Address: 209.163.7.97
In Reply to: Re: Oil in the Turbo?? posted by Shepherd again on January 25, 2001 at 09:39:59:
Shepherd. We have been gone for a few days. I agree with the answer already posted. You will just have to take it apart and see what you have. Larry
Re: Mistake below
Posted by larry Wolfe on January 26, 2001 at 18:04:35: IP Address: 209.244.87.19
In Reply to: Re: Oil in the Turbo?? posted by Shepherd again on January 25, 2001 at 09:39:59:
I was thinking about the 1755 post and messed up on the post below, You do have a hurk in that 2150. If the turbo is not loose and spins fine use it.When i had one rebuilt it came back worse.
Re: Mistake below
Posted by Shepherd on January 29, 2001 at 07:30:53: IP Address: 216.76.116.101
In Reply to: Re: Mistake below posted by larry Wolfe on January 26, 2001 at 18:04:35:
It is a Hurk engine, took her apart this weekend and found the turbo WAS the problem. Turbo bearing went out, chewed up the fins and dumped oil down both manifolds, sending oil out the exhaust and oil in the engine-- blowing the head gasket. Rest of the engine looks good, lots of oil and carbon in the head from the problem. Thanks for the help guys.
Re: Oil in the Turbo??
Posted by Lawrence Wolfe on January 26, 2001 at 17:55:44: IP Address: 209.244.87.19
In Reply to: Re: Oil in the Turbo?? posted by Shepherd again on January 25, 2001 at 09:39:59:
You should have a wauk engine in that tractor.But it could be the same problem. You will need to check the head for being flat and smooth.Also check the cylinder sleeves for protrusion (how much they stick up) shims will have to be added if too low. If these two things are not done, you can expect it to blow again. Larry Wolfe
1850 Distributor problem
Posted by Johnnie on January 23, 2001 at 21:18:27: IP Address: 207.218.245.7
Thanks to Larry Morphew I just found this post. I have a 1850 with a Delco dist. # 1111 311. The shaft is worn and has some movement in it causing it to miss. I have looked all over for a new Delco. I know I can buy a Mallory. but cap points etc. expensive and not avable in or around me. Do you have any sugestions. Thanks great site very informative.
Re: 1850 Distributor problem
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 24, 2001 at 09:57:40: IP Address: 209.163.7.53
In Reply to: 1850 Distributor problem posted by Johnnie on January 23, 2001 at 21:18:27:
I don't have one. I don't know where you are, but try contacting: Denny's Carb Shop - he specializes in carburation and ignition. He's at Fletcher OH His phone: 937-368-2304. Larry
Re: 1850 Distributor problem
Posted by Johnnie on January 24, 2001 at 20:31:44: IP Address: 207.218.245.7
In Reply to: Re: 1850 Distributor problem posted by Larry Harsin on January 24, 2001 at 09:57:40:
Thanks enjoy the web page lots of go information.
Oliver Super 44 or 440
Posted by Jerry S. on January 23, 2001 at 17:53:12: IP Address: 166.102.117.49
Do you have a Super 44 or 440 for sale or any parts for these tractors?
Re: Oliver Super 44 or 440
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 23, 2001 at 18:46:01: IP Address: 209.163.7.66
In Reply to: Oliver Super 44 or 440 posted by Jerry S. on January 23, 2001 at 17:53:12:
Jerry. I don't have anything for S44 or 440's. Contact Ollie Schaeffer 618-664-3050 or email: olliesch@papadocs.com He handles these. He has each of these models for sale. Larry
White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by Hal on January 23, 2001 at 16:52:42: IP Address: 207.127.150.6
Larry- I have a 2-70 which I guess is like a 1655. I believe the hydraulic pump is getting worn as it doesn't lift as well when the oil warms up; I might have done some damage a couple seasons back when I let the oil cooler get plugged. It is usable, but not right; it does not leak down with a heavy load, but all performance is slow with warm oil, either thru the remotes or at the 3-pt. Anything else I should checkout first? If the pump, is this a difficult job? I have read the I&T book and it doesn't seem too bad, is there a better manual available? They talk about rebuilding the pump. What is the usual thing to do if the pump is worn, purchase a rebuilt one, rebuild it, or what? Thanks for any advice.
Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 23, 2001 at 18:41:31: IP Address: 209.163.7.66
In Reply to: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump posted by Hal on January 23, 2001 at 16:52:42:
Hal. From your description, I think your pump is worn. I have a shop manual for a 1655, if it would be any help, I could copy the pages you need and send them if you wish. Email your address to me if you want me to do this. You can get a new pump for around $400 from Tom Hassenfritz Equip. 800-634-4885. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. In my experience it hasn't been good to fix the pumps especially if they have been hot. It is a lot of work to get that thing replaced and you wouldn't want to have to do it a 2nd time. I would buy a new one. Talk to Tom. If he has a rebuilt that will work, I'm sure it will be all right. Larry
Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by larry wolfe on January 23, 2001 at 18:41:28: IP Address: 63.215.156.98
In Reply to: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump posted by Hal on January 23, 2001 at 16:52:42:
I have had good luck rebuilding thease pumps,as long as the gears have not scraped away metal from the outer case. The pump repair kit has new end plates plus new rubber and seal parts,which seem to do the job. I am getting 18 to 20 years on pump rebuilds with my 1650.
Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by larry wolfe on January 23, 2001 at 20:56:59: IP Address: 63.208.166.60
In Reply to: Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump posted by larry wolfe on January 23, 2001 at 18:41:28:
If i could have found a pump for 400 i might have replaced some. I have rebuilt pumps on 1555,2-1600s,2-1650s,1950,1800. The last price I got was 500$+. Some people have been saying i like to work on old stuff too much.
Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by Hal on January 24, 2001 at 14:39:24: IP Address: 207.127.150.6
In Reply to: Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump posted by larry wolfe on January 23, 2001 at 20:56:59:
Gee, we've go a few Larry's here. Thank you both for your help.
Larry W: Sometimes I'm like you, people tell me I spend too much time trying to save a few bucks on something old, doesn't matter if it's computers or farm equipment. Did you use AGCO parts for the rebuilds, or maybe if they lasted as long as you say it wasn't even AGCO then? Thanks again and good luck.
Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump
Posted by larry wolfe on January 26, 2001 at 11:06:04: IP Address: 64.157.61.146
In Reply to: Re: White 2-70 Hydraulic pump posted by Hal on January 24, 2001 at 14:39:24:
Yes i used agco (oliver) parts. Make sure the bearing surface for each shaft is not worn,and the gears and center case are a close fit. One time i did buy a pump from a friend and rebuilt that one rather than the one i took out.
Oliver 60
Posted by rooster on January 23, 2001 at 05:04:57: IP Address: 12.28.99.71
Larry, is your Oliver 60 for sale? What year is it and does it
have a 4 or 5 speed tranny? How much for it? Thanks.
Re: Oliver 60
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 23, 2001 at 07:00:00: IP Address: 209.163.7.34
In Reply to: Oliver 60 posted by rooster on January 23, 2001 at 05:04:57:
The 60 is a real late one. I think it is a 1948. It has a 5 speed transmission. It runs as good as it looks. The tires are new. I'm asking $2250 for it. Larry
1755 distributor
Posted by Jim G on January 17, 2001 at 15:27:11: IP Address: 207.14.219.80
The plate that holds the points on my 1755 distributor is loose
(rocks up & down). The local dealer doesn't have the part. What are
my options other than buy a new distributor?
Thanks
Jim G
Re: 1755 distributor
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 17, 2001 at 20:42:10: IP Address: 209.163.7.5
In Reply to: 1755 distributor posted by Jim G on January 17, 2001 at 15:27:11:
Jim. The options are not good. See if your dealer would have a used part to repair yours. Some of these particular parts for the Holley distributor are extremely hard to find. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl.: 800-320-6224. Larry
Hyd. Pressure
Posted by Richard on January 15, 2001 at 19:11:29: IP Address: 63.166.22.47
Larry, what is the most hydraulic pressure I can get away with on the 1650? I'm running 2100 right now and I was wondering if I could set the relief a little higher.
Re: Hyd. Pressure
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 16, 2001 at 07:25:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.99
In Reply to: Hyd. Pressure posted by Richard on January 15, 2001 at 19:11:29:
Richard. I think you are asking for trouble. I'd leave it at 2100. Larry
unknown engine in OC 3
Posted by Wayne on January 14, 2001 at 01:25:31: IP Address: 207.194.27.166
I have an OC 3 we are using on our ranch in B.C. Canada. The engine needs work but I have no idea what engine it is. It is a 4cyl overhead valve. Coil,dist etc are Lucas, intake manifold is Enfo, carb is zenith. The only marks on the block i have found so far is a M18V cast into the left side of the block. The engine appears to bolt directly to the Oliver bell housing. Any guess as to the make of the engine would realy be great.
Thank you for any help.
Wayne
Re: unknown engine in OC 3
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 14, 2001 at 07:11:03: IP Address: 209.163.7.91
In Reply to: unknown engine in OC 3 posted by Wayne on January 14, 2001 at 01:25:31:
Wayne. I don't have any idea. When the OC-3 was made they were fitted with 4 cyl. flat head Hercules engines. From your discription, it would be my guess that someone has installed something else. Possibly it's a British engine like a David Brown. Larry
LUCAS OIL
Posted by JERROLD on January 12, 2001 at 08:21:13: IP Address: 12.21.155.132
I HAVE BEEN HEARING GOOD THINGS ABOUT LUCAS OIL LUBRICANTS IN TRACTORS ENGINES AND GEAR OIL HAVE YOU EVER USED THIS OIL PRODUCT ARE WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT USEING IT
Re: LUCAS OIL
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 12, 2001 at 22:20:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.47
In Reply to: LUCAS OIL posted by JERROLD on January 12, 2001 at 08:21:13:
Jerrold. I have never heard of it and I don't know anything about it. Larry
Re: LUCAS OIL
Posted by Don on January 13, 2001 at 23:10:16: IP Address: 152.163.213.79
In Reply to: Re: LUCAS OIL posted by Larry Harsin on January 12, 2001 at 22:20:35:
I beleive it is an extremely thick oil additive, and i think it is petroleum based. I've heard good reveiws about it, but it is only good to a certain point. If all your engine does is burn oil, it's too far gone for it to work, but I guess if you have a slight leak it will work good.
77 pto to 88
Posted by Bill on January 07, 2001 at 13:36:43: IP Address: 216.146.145.109
Larry, we have an 88 without a pto, will one off off an 77 fit? Thanks, Bill
Re: 77 pto to 88
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 07, 2001 at 19:34:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.60
In Reply to: 77 pto to 88 posted by Bill on January 07, 2001 at 13:36:43:
Bill. It will except the shaft that goes to the engine is a different length. I might have one. I'll check in the morning. Larry
Re: 77 pto to 88
Posted by Bill on January 07, 2001 at 19:40:31: IP Address: 216.146.145.109
In Reply to: Re: 77 pto to 88 posted by Larry Harsin on January 07, 2001 at 19:34:09:
Good news Larry, let me know Thanks Bill
Re: 77 pto to 88
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 08, 2001 at 10:48:07: IP Address: 209.163.7.98
In Reply to: Re: 77 pto to 88 posted by Bill on January 07, 2001 at 19:40:31:
I have 2 of the shafts. One is in better condition than the other in the splines area. I want $85 for the lesser shaft and $145 for the better one. Both plus shipping. You will have to email me your address to tell you what the shipping will be.Larry
Re: 77 pto to 88
Posted by Bill on January 08, 2001 at 21:48:20: IP Address: 216.146.145.72
In Reply to: Re: 77 pto to 88 posted by Larry Harsin on January 08, 2001 at 10:48:07:
Thanks for checking, I"ll check out the condition of the pto and make a decision this weekend. Then let you know how I want to go. Thanks again Bill
Remote problems
Posted by Richard Skinner on January 07, 2001 at 10:36:29: IP Address: 63.166.22.44
Larry, I installed the loader and I have it tied into the existing remotes. My left side controls lift, and the right side controls the bucket tilt.
My problem is, the bucket bleeds off real quick, about 5 seconds. I felt some resistance when I moved the right handle back then it freed up, every since then it bleeds off. Does this sound like a cut oring in the spool valve? Can I service it without pulling the entire valve assembly off?
Re: Remote problems
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 07, 2001 at 12:38:49: IP Address: 209.163.7.47
In Reply to: Remote problems posted by Richard Skinner on January 07, 2001 at 10:36:29:
The first thing you should do is: under the seat there are adjustable resistors. There are 2 on each side. One of these 2 (one on each side) is actually a bi-pass for one way operation. You should turn the bi-pass valve in by loosening the lock nut slightly and turning the bi-pass valve all the way in. Refer to your operators manuel. The other 2 valves, one on each side, are adjustable resistors that control the speed of the cylinder. I don't think that you have an internal problem as yet. Personally, my preference for loader operation is to bring oil out at the power beyond port and control the loader with an external valve. As an after thought, before you adjust anything, change your hoses side to side and see if that solves the problem. In other words, dump the bucket with the left hand valve. Call me tonight if you have a problem. Larry
Re: Remote problems
Posted by Richard on January 07, 2001 at 16:11:22: IP Address: 63.166.22.44
In Reply to: Re: Remote problems posted by Larry Harsin on January 07, 2001 at 12:38:49:
Fixed it, boy this was an easy job. Tore down top cover and found a small peice of metal on the right side check ball. I had plumbed new 1/2 pipe on the right side for the loader and they must not have been clean. I swear I blew through everything. Put it back together and she works like a champ. Hope them yellow Caterpiller O-ring doesn't cause an allergic reaction to this old girl
starter for an oliver 500
Posted by dick on January 06, 2001 at 16:16:26: IP Address: 204.186.239.166
i am looking for a starter for an oliver 500. the starter is a lucas and the numbers that i can read on it are 2643A 6 58.
m45g 17 2v. any information would be helpful. the armature has gone bad on mine and i cant seem to get it fixed anywhere.
Re: starter for an oliver 500
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 07, 2001 at 00:04:00: IP Address: 209.163.7.69
In Reply to: starter for an oliver 500 posted by dick on January 06, 2001 at 16:16:26:
Dick. Your tractor was built by David Brown. Call CT Farm and Country at 1-888-828-3276. They show a listing for David Brown. Your tractor is older than a listing that they show, but they might be able to help you. If you can find a starter repair place that carries Lucas parts, they might be able to repair your starter. Larry
70 oliver
Posted by Don on January 05, 2001 at 20:02:05: IP Address: 207.155.178.87
Hi, Larry could you tell me if you have any parts or repair manuals fo my 70, if not where I can find them. Also can I get sleeves and pistons any where? Can you tell me how to pull the sleeves, I can't seem to rent a puller in my town can I buy one or make one? Do you have a price for any of these items. thanks Don
Re: 70 oliver
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 06, 2001 at 07:04:37: IP Address: 209.163.7.87
In Reply to: 70 oliver posted by Don on January 05, 2001 at 20:02:05:
Don. You can get a shop manual from Jensales at 800-443-0625. I don't have sleeves and pistons for a 70. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. As far as removing the sleeves, I would take the engine block to a machine shop and have it boiled out. They will be able to remove the sleeves. Otherwise, it is very likely you will crack the block. Those 70 blocks are pretty fragile. Larry
oliver 70
Posted by Dennis on January 04, 2001 at 20:06:07: IP Address: 64.111.115.80
I have an oliver 70 with engine # 200757 could you tell me what year it is? Also need to know if the cracks in the block between the sleeve's means I need to junk the engine or will it not hurt anything, can I get an engine anywhere or junk the tractor.
Re: oliver 70
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 04, 2001 at 22:08:27: IP Address: 209.163.7.65
In Reply to: oliver 70 posted by Dennis on January 04, 2001 at 20:06:07:
Dennis. Your 70 was built in 1936. The cracks in the block at the top between the cylinder sleeves are not critical. If anti-freeze does not get in the crank case you are o.k. Larry
70 parts
Posted by rooster on January 04, 2001 at 04:38:33: IP Address: 12.28.99.30
Larry,
Would you have an exhaust manifold for a '38 Oliver 70 RC NF for sale?
Also, I need "drivers side" side curtain. Thanks.
Re: 70 parts
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 04, 2001 at 13:14:15: IP Address: 209.163.7.48
In Reply to: 70 parts posted by rooster on January 04, 2001 at 04:38:33:
I have a manifold. It will be $150 plus shipping. I don't have the side curtain. Email me your address and I can tell you how much the shipping is. Larry
Oliver 1600 hard starting
Posted by Stephen Coventry on January 03, 2001 at 16:43:50: IP Address: 216.175.43.112
I have a 1600 that is hard to start in cold weather. What can I do about this. It has a good battery and starter. thanks Steve
Re: Oliver 1600 hard starting
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 03, 2001 at 21:48:20: IP Address: 209.163.7.91
In Reply to: Oliver 1600 hard starting posted by Stephen Coventry on January 03, 2001 at 16:43:50:
Steve. Is this 1600 a gas or diesel? If this is a diesel you may have low compression or you may have injector or pump problems. You didn't say where you live but if it is cold, You should have at least half number one diesel fuel in it. Is your preheater working? If it is gas, is the choke adjusted properly? Are the valves good and not leaking? Have you checked the ignition points and the spark plug wires? Larry
Re: Oliver 1600 hard starting
Posted by Stephen Coventry on January 04, 2001 at 00:06:49: IP Address: 216.175.43.66
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 1600 hard starting posted by Larry Harsin on January 03, 2001 at 21:48:20:
The 1600 is gas it runs fine after you get it started. I have put new points and plugs in a year ago. Is it possible the valves need adj. But it has a hesitation when you go to full throttle.
Re: Oliver 1600 hard starting
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 04, 2001 at 07:41:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.95
In Reply to: Re: Oliver 1600 hard starting posted by Stephen Coventry on January 04, 2001 at 00:06:49:
It is possible that your choke is not working properly. Check the choke adjustment and the butterfly inside the carb. Sometimes a little spring on the choke plate gets broken and the engine won't start properly. Also check your coil wire and make sure it is in good condition. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor. Larry
Valves
Posted by Ben on January 02, 2001 at 23:52:08: IP Address: 63.50.107.199
Im restoring a 1948 Oliver model 77 standard tractor. I had 2 vales that were stuck on the head so i took it to a machine shop to have a valve job done on the head. The shop called me back today and said that the valves were shot and I would have to get new ones. So my question is? Who buit Oliver engins or did they bulid thier own engins and if so were could I find a set of valves and I need to replace 4 push rods that are a little bent? I live in Oregon do you of any auto shop that would cary such hard wear or would this be some thing I would need to
Re: Valves
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 04, 2001 at 13:18:40: IP Address: 209.163.7.48
In Reply to: Valves posted by Ben on January 02, 2001 at 23:52:08:
Ben. I have the 4 pushrods. $10 plus shipping for all of them. You will have to email me your address so I can tell you what the shipping will be. For the valves, contact Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry Harsin
Re: Valves
Posted by Richard on January 04, 2001 at 06:39:14: IP Address: 63.166.22.47
In Reply to: Valves posted by Ben on January 02, 2001 at 23:52:08:
Larry is right about the specs. Waukesha sold their VR line to Arrow Engine. Arrow carries parts still, but getting the right parts for your Oliver from them will be rather difficult as Waukesha built the Oliver stuff to Oliver Specs and it differs a lot from the standard Waukesha / Arrow Parts. We are a Waukesha and Arrow Dealer and I went through misery for 3 to 4 months on my overhaul. The parts they kept sending me were not even close.
If Larry doesn't have the parts I'm sure he knows where he can get them.
Good luck.
Re: Valves
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 03, 2001 at 21:39:02: IP Address: 209.163.7.91
In Reply to: Valves posted by Ben on January 02, 2001 at 23:52:08:
Ben. I may have the parts that you need. I'll check it out in the morning. Oliver engines were built to Oliver Specifications by the Waukesha Engine Co. Larry
OC-96 Crawler
Posted by Dan on January 02, 2001 at 18:40:49: IP Address: 63.20.200.47
Larry: Recently I stumbled across an OC-96 Crawler. The engine runs ok but according to the former owner there is a gear that is missing 2 teeth in the rear end on the left side. Do you know if this is common and or were I can get a parts manual downloaded or purchase such an animal along with a operators manual. Thanks dan
Re: OC-96 Crawler
Posted by Larry Harsin on January 03, 2001 at 21:34:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.91
In Reply to: OC-96 Crawler posted by Dan on January 02, 2001 at 18:40:49:
Dan. Contact Landis Zimmerman at: 717-738-2573 He is a Cletrac Specialist. Larry
oliver 1650 hyd
Posted by larry wolfe on December 24, 2000 at 20:09:02: IP Address: 209.244.229.36
Last year i rebulit the pump and made sure all the passages where open on this tractor. unfortuneatly i still had problems.Lots of back preasure in the remote outlets. I saw the restrictor on the return line but did not remove it. Could this restrictor cause this? I tryed replaceing the top valve cover but made no differance.I allso unscrewed the restrictors as far as possible. I was able to blow the seals out of 2 hyd cylinders very easily.
Re: oliver 1650 hyd
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 25, 2000 at 17:18:13: IP Address: 209.163.7.3
In Reply to: oliver 1650 hyd posted by larry wolfe on December 24, 2000 at 20:09:02:
I would rather think that you have trouble in your break away couplings. That could cause this pressure. I've had to replace break away couplings different times because of this problem. Larry
Re: oliver 1650 hyd
Posted by larry wolfe on December 26, 2000 at 11:52:41: IP Address: 209.244.208.232
In Reply to: Re: oliver 1650 hyd posted by Larry Harsin on December 25, 2000 at 17:18:13:
I will try to test for this when i can. To stop the loosness in the steering I added a power steering cylinder from a combine and unhooked the oliver stuff. I went from 1 wheel turn of play to 0 play. Right now its great I'll see how it holds.
550 dsl overheating
Posted by Shep on December 24, 2000 at 17:54:26: IP Address: 216.199.18.220
I have an Oliver 550 Dsl that continually overheats. I am planning to replace radiator next. I have replaced thermostat (175 degrees) and yet still runs hot. Seems as if water is flowing when I look in the radiator. No hose kinks. It started this late this summer and has continually gotten worse.
Engine s/n is Engine s/n 129665 located on boss of generator mount.
Also what is a fair price for restored Oliver 100 Plowmaster?
Happy Holidays!
Re: 550 dsl overheating
Posted by larry wolfe on December 24, 2000 at 19:55:05: IP Address: 209.244.229.36
In Reply to: 550 dsl overheating posted by Shep on December 24, 2000 at 17:54:26:
You shoud have your radiator cleaned (boiled out)as long as it is not leaking. When you take it off you can get an idea what clogged it,hopefuly it woun't be oil sludge.
Re: 550 dsl overheating
Posted by Shep on December 25, 2000 at 13:25:20: IP Address: 216.199.18.214
In Reply to: Re: 550 dsl overheating posted by larry wolfe on December 24, 2000 at 19:55:05:
To All -
Thanks for the info. I plan to pull radiator tomorrow and take to town. Boy, I sure hope it not an oil sludge problem.
Thanks for the info on the plow. Thinking of getting it to pull behind my little 550. Do you think that would be a good choice?
Shep
Re: 550 dsl overheating
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 25, 2000 at 17:13:28: IP Address: 209.163.7.3
In Reply to: Re: 550 dsl overheating posted by Shep on December 25, 2000 at 13:25:20:
I would get a 3 pt. hitch fully mounted plow for that 550. It wouldn't necessarily have to be an Oliver although that is probably what you would like. That tractor was built to handle this kind of plow. Larry
Re: 550 dsl overheating
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 24, 2000 at 18:26:40: IP Address: 209.163.7.87
In Reply to: 550 dsl overheating posted by Shep on December 24, 2000 at 17:54:26:
What you are doing is what I would do - check the radiator. If that doesn't help, I would take the head off and start looking. I would say the plow is worth fro m $300 - $400. Larry
front wheel squeal
Posted by KC on December 18, 2000 at 17:12:44: IP Address: 152.163.206.197
My left front wheel is squealing when I turn or veer left. Any ideas? I have been told possibly wheel bearings or CV joint?
Re: front wheel squeal
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 18, 2000 at 22:27:15: IP Address: 209.163.7.45
In Reply to: front wheel squeal posted by KC on December 18, 2000 at 17:12:44:
That can be 2 possibilities. It could also be a brake pad causing the noise. Larry
70 generators
Posted by Canada Grant on December 18, 2000 at 11:04:07: IP Address: 216.183.128.2
Are there any differances between early style 70 generators and the later ones ? A friend has style one standard and claims style two is "different" from the early one. Or is he the different one?
Re: 70 generators
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 18, 2000 at 22:24:45: IP Address: 209.163.7.45
In Reply to: 70 generators posted by Canada Grant on December 18, 2000 at 11:04:07:
I don't think there is too much difference in the 70 generators and electrical system. Some have been changed from the way they were built, so you are apt to find anything. Larry
Oliver RC 70 88
Posted by rooster on December 18, 2000 at 00:17:06: IP Address: 12.28.99.82
Larry,
Would you happen to know what year my Row Crop 70 was built?
The only serial numbers I can find are on the engine. The numbers
on the brass tag are 302201. Where are the other numbers located?
I think this is one of the earlier ones
since it has a magneto and throttle below and in front of the seat.
It also has electric start. It has rear fenders with a "lip" on the
top. Also, it has 4 gears, 3 forward and one reverse. Did the four
speed ones have a road gear. In the fastest gear it goes around 10 mph.
Would you also know if the throttle conversions are still available
to go from frame mounted to steering column mounted throttle?
Last summer we restored an Oliver RC 88. It didn't really need parts,
since it stayed on the farm for quite some time. All it really needed
was paint. It did need a clutch however. We put in a new clutch and
pressure plate. When we got it all back together, we noticed that it
will "knock" real loud if the clutch is let out too fast or if it's
in too high a gear for the load. It did it before the new clutch also.
It won't stop knocking till the clutch is pushed in and the clutch let
out real slow. If it's let out too fast, it will knock again, even with
no load. Do you know what's wrong?
Thanks for your reply.
Re: Oliver RC 70 88
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 18, 2000 at 07:41:47: IP Address: 209.163.7.92
In Reply to: Oliver RC 70 88 posted by rooster on December 18, 2000 at 00:17:06:
Someone has taken that engine out of a 70 Standard and put it in your RC 70. The number you gave me is for a Standard. The Standard numbers are 30 series. The RC numbers are the 20 series. The year on your engine is 1938. Other numbers might be on the frame casting or under the transmission on the main casting. These numbers (day, month & year) will be cast right into the frame. As for the gears, you've only found the lower set of gears (third, fourth, sixth and reverse). On the upper section of gears, you will find first, second and fifth but no reverse. Those tractors had a decal showing this. Put the lever in the middle and push forward towards the dash to go to the upper gears. I might have one of the throttle conversions I have taken off a 70 I parted out but I won't be able to find it til spring. On your 88, the first thing I would check is the bolts on the clutch shaft coupling where it hooks to the input shaft, to see if they are striking the belt pulley housing. The front bolts may need to be reversed. You might have a bad bearing on the input shaft. Check and see if there is any side to side movement. Larry
Posted by rooster on December 26, 2000 at 02:55:09: IP Address: 12.28.99.88
In Reply to: Re: Oliver RC 70 88 posted by Larry Harsin on December 18, 2000 at 07:41:47:
Larry,
Thanks for the last reply. I didn't check into
the 88 at all yet, since the temperature outside
is hovering around 0 degrees. I'll get back to you
on that. I have another question for you on the 88
however. The engine likes to "gallop" when it gets
enough load on the engine. We've done lots of adjusting
on the governor bolt and the throttle linkages. There seems
to be no more adjustment. Would a governor rebuild be in
order?
My cousin has an Oliver 70 Standard. His has 6 gears. 3
in the upper part and 3 in the lower part of the lever
positions. Our 70RC only has 2 on the top and 2 on
the bottom. Where it seems like there would be another gear,
there's nothing there. It must be a 4 speed. Again, I don't
have much time to play with it since it's around 0 degrees and
there's 20" of snow on the ground. I can't find the serial number
on the frame. I looked under the transmission on the outside of the
casting but can't find it anywhere. I looked around the dash where it
is on the 88's and nothing also. And, finally, would you have a right
rear fender for my '38 70? Thanks a lot.
oliver 70
Posted by Rick Yantz on December 16, 2000 at 22:35:10: IP Address: 209.69.196.196
I have an oliver 70 row crop. I am missing a lot of engine parts
and a lot of sheet metel (carb, mag or distributer, starter, generator
hood, grill, and front wheels. My question is what wheels will bolt
on temporally and where can i find the parts I need. If it is possible
and if you have some information about the 70 please send it to me
Any information will help. This is my first full size tractor (I have a large collection of David Bradley equipment)
and i would like to restore it.
Thank You for your time
Rick
Re: oliver 70
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 17, 2000 at 08:05:54: IP Address: 209.163.7.36
In Reply to: oliver 70 posted by Rick Yantz on December 16, 2000 at 22:35:10:
Rick. I have a lot of 70 parts. I have all the stuff you mentioned, on hand. I don't know of anything else you can bolt on temporarily. I think the bolt pattern is the same as for 6 bolt wagon wheels. You might try and see. If you decide you want parts from me, I will need the serial number from the tag on the left side of the engine. Email me about what you want and I will send the prices. Larry
oliver crawler
Posted by highbeam on December 16, 2000 at 20:45:16: IP Address: 209.189.192.91
I have a chance of buying a oliver crawler the model number is 006 42 C serial number 350 2971 it has a 6 cylinder gas engine with a 7 foot blade. plus pto its body is straight meaning the grill is undamaged. i am guessing that the 42 in the model number is the year and the 006 and C i have no idea what that means. If you have any information that might help me i would appreciate it
thanks highbeam
Re: oliver crawler
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 17, 2000 at 07:59:35: IP Address: 209.163.7.36
In Reply to: oliver crawler posted by highbeam on December 16, 2000 at 20:45:16:
If you will look closer, I think the second 0 in your model number might be a C. I think you have an OC 6 with 42 inch track width. The serial number indicates that it is a 1953. Landis Zimmerman at 717-738-2573 is an Oliver Crawler expert. You might check with him. Larry
super 55 serial #
Posted by DeWayne on December 16, 2000 at 18:12:52: IP Address: 152.163.204.198
Larry, can you give the year of this tractor? It is a super 55 with the spefication # 15-0005 and the serial # 12 907-518. It has the short handle to turn the power take off on and off. Thanks for your help, DeWayne
Re: super 55 serial #
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 17, 2000 at 07:51:09: IP Address: 209.163.7.36
In Reply to: super 55 serial # posted by DeWayne on December 16, 2000 at 18:12:52:
DeWayne. Your S55 is a 1955. Larry
Front Wheel Weight Question???Oliver 60
Posted by Dusty M. Erickson on December 16, 2000 at 16:02:19: IP Address: 208.225.193.209
Larry...I have just bought a cast iron front wheel weight mfg. by (Wilson Nutwell Inc. - 5) for an Oliver 60 Row Crop. Ever heard of this company or know where to locate another match ??? Thank you. Dusty
Re: Front Wheel Weight Question???Oliver 60
Posted by Larry Harsin on December 17, 2000 at 07:44:32: IP Address: 209.163.7.36
In Reply to: Front Wheel Weight Question???Oliver 60 posted by Dusty M. Erickson on December 16, 2000 at 16:02:19:
No, I have never heard of that company. Arnold Meyer at Worthington MN has a lot of wheel weights. You might check with him at: 507-372-7788. Larry