Changing width of rear tires

IP: 198.140.195.254 Posted on March 15, 2006 at 03:23:18 PM by Joe Wheeler

I have a 1959 Oliver 880 NF. I may need to move the rear wheels in to make them narrower to fit on a trailer that has the bed between the wheels. It appears to be a matter of 1.Loosening the U bolts on each wheel on the rear axle. 2. Loosening the nuts going around the inside perimeter of the wheel the rear tire is mounted on. 3. Starting the tractor and going forward or backward to make the wheels move closer to the rear fenders on the tractor. Is this the correct procedure?

Re(1): Changing width of rear tires

IP: 67.2.242.90 Posted on March 15, 2006 at 09:13:21 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. Do them one at a time. You'll have to hold the brake on the opposite wheel, so that it will spin the wheel that you are trying to adjust. Larry

Oliver 1800, 1850

IP: 69.95.86.86 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 07:06:17 AM by Jeremy

Did either one of these come with the 310 in them?

Re(1): Oliver 1800, 1850

IP: 67.2.249.93 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 11:05:17 PM by Larry Harsin

The 1850 gas was a 310 motor. The 1850 diesel had a Perkins. The 1800 C diesel was a 310. The 1800 C gas was a 283. Larry

oliver 70 industrial 1947

IP: 24.200.150.103 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 12:49:58 PM by Don Pino

I am trying to find a clutch bearing for my oliver 70 industrial, a 1947 vintage. On the old frozen bearing the identification is NICE 6590 . I know the nice company was purchased by SKF, but they don't seem to be able to give me an equivalent. Would you know which bearing would fit in there. I should be more precise. I am looking for the pilot bearing for my Oliver 70 year 1947. Thanks

Re(1): bearing oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 08:08:35 PM by Larry Harsin

I have a pilot bearing, but the pilot bearing is a bushing that fits into the end of the crankshaft. Is this what you mean? I can check and see if I have a clutch bearing..... Email me if I can help. Larry

Re(2): bearing oliver 70

IP: 66.38.181.42 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 07:16:19 AM by Don Pino

what I am looking for is the Throw Out Bearing

Re(3): bearing oliver 70

IP: 67.2.249.93 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 11:01:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Re(4): bearing oliver 70

IP: 66.38.181.42 Posted on March 15, 2006 at 05:56:34 PM by Don Pino

thank you for trying Larry. In the interim I have made more research and found out that an easily available bearing from SKF N1136 fits perfectly in there ($25 canadian). Thanks again

Ethanol

IP: 71.208.38.163 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 08:20:19 PM by Gerry Murphy

Two questions but they are related. Interested in anyone that knows how to adjust (or re-jet) the carburator to deal with higher altitudes. I have a 1600 that runs pretty smooth but it either sputters a bit if I keep it lean or runs well but carbons the plugs after about 20 hrs if I adjust according to spec. (I'm at 8250 ft elevation) A different but sort of related question--has anyone converted to run on ethanol??

Re(1): Ethanol

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 06:37:44 AM by Larry Harsin

I have not converted to run on ethanol. About the other question, contact Denny's Carb Shop 937-368-2304. www.dennyscarbshop.com Larry

Re(2): Ethanol

IP: 65.110.231.165 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 09:56:37 PM by Jim Fitzgerald

Here in central Iowa, we have got a 770 and Row Crop 77 and use "Super Unleaded" gas which contains a 10% ethanol blend and have been doing this for the last 5 or so years. We have had no problems at all and didn't change or replace anything on the tractors and the carbs have had no work done to them for years.

Super 77

IP: 64.131.55.45 Posted on March 10, 2006 at 09:58:20 AM by jim

Larry- Stupid question. Looking for transmission/differential filler plug.Also what is recommended lubricant?Thanks

Re(1): Super 77

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 07:39:07 PM by Larry Harsin

I'll see if I have a filler plug. Email me as you didn't put your email on your message. You can use 80 - 90 or straight 90 transmission grease for the lubricant. Larry

Re(2): Super 77

IP: 64.131.55.60 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 12:51:13 PM by jim

Larry- I meant where is the filler plug located on the tractor? I just bought tractor and wanted to change lubricants. Is the plug on the hydraulic box the common filler port? I thought these tractors had separate hydraulic and differential lubricants? Thanks again,

Re(3): super 77

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 08:04:32 PM by Larry Harsin

No. The filler cap for the transmission is located at the right front, ahead of the hydraulic filter. They do have separate reservoirs. You need to get an Operator's Manual. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

1955 PTO operation?

IP: 65.161.251.246 Posted on March 10, 2006 at 09:35:02 AM by Lucas Schneider

Mr.Harsin, I have an Oliver 1955 that the pto does not turn off when you move the lever to the off position. If you shut the engine down and restart it, the pto will turn about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn the you hear a click and it stops. Under light load it will keep turning with the lever in the off position. Under a heavy load such as my round baler with a bale in the chamber it will stop it, but after I dump the bale it will start to turn slowly agian. Also, I am getting hyd. oil in the transmission and differential, could these two be related? I am no a pro at working on Olivers yet, where do I start? Also, I forgot one other problem. I get a growling sound from the drivetrain under 1600 rpm's when the tractor is not under load on level ground. If you go up a hill it goes away, if you go down a hill it goes away. It doesn't matter what gear it's in, or what range the over/under is in.

Re(1): 1955 PTO operation?

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 07:35:55 PM by Larry Harsin

If you are getting hydraulic oil in the rearend, I think you are going to have to pull the PTO out of the tractor and inspect all of the parts for wear. You will want to check the brake in there. You'll have to replace the seal on the piston, so that it won't leak hydraulic oil. While you have the PTO unit out, it will be a good time to check out what is going on in the rear end. Look for trouble there. Your trouble with the drivetrain, could possibly be the ring gear and pinion, like a loose bevel pinion or something. You will have to check it out. You should have an Operator's Manual and before you do this "work", you should get a Shop Manual for your tractor. You can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Phone them: 641-228-1099 or Email them: fchs@fiai.net Larry

Re(2): 1955 PTO operation?

IP: 65.161.251.246 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 07:15:07 AM by Lucas Schneider

Mr.Harsin, I have a owners, service, and parts manual. Do I go in through the back cover? I don't know if I'll have time to get this done before hay time comes in may. I will try, but will it hurt to run it the way it is if I just make sure the fluid levels stay where they should? Thanks for your help!

Re(3): 1955 PTO operation?

IP: 67.2.249.95 Posted on March 13, 2006 at 08:12:38 PM by Larry Harsin

For running it the way it is, you'll just have to use your own good judgement. Larry

Re(4): 1955 PTO operation?

IP: 65.161.251.246 Posted on March 14, 2006 at 07:14:27 AM by Lucas Schneider

Well, I decided to rip into it and see what is going on in there. Got the pto off last night, gonna disassemble tonight and see what is going on in there.

88 Row Crop& Standard/same bull gears??

IP: 142.161.216.200 Posted on March 10, 2006 at 07:27:41 AM by Hank

I took the cover off our 88 row crop rear end and noticed a broken tooth on one of the bull gears.I can have a 88 standard parts tractor for a good price but need to know if the 88 standard and row crop have the same bull gears. Thanks for your time. HANK

Re(1): 88 Row Crop& Standard/same bull gears??

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 07:28:00 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, they do. Larry

Off/On switch wiring schematic

IP: 71.226.155.149 Posted on March 10, 2006 at 04:57:47 AM by David H

Where can I find a switch diagram for the Off/On/lights etc. on the dash? My plate on the front is not clear. The first click is Ign. and the second is Ign./Lights right? That's all I know.

Re(1): Off/On switch wiring schematic

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 07:26:35 PM by Larry Harsin

The earlier tractors just had ignition and lights. There were a couple of extra clicks. The last click was lights with no ignition. On later Fleetlines, however, there was a click for headlights and rear flood, then headlights with tailight, then lights without ignition. Larry

770 motor

IP: 66.43.223.34 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 08:56:37 PM by keith

Do you know where i could get a head or a motor for a 770 oliver diesel.If i put a motor in would a 88,880,1600,1650 diesel work in this tractor? Want more HP.

Re(1): 770 motor

IP: 67.2.248.21 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 07:21:47 PM by Larry Harsin

You could bolt in a S88 or an 880 engine in there. It will take a little adaptation, but it will work. You'll have to redrill the front holes in the frame to match the holes in the engine. Larry

880 d

IP: 4.190.86.187 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 07:20:29 PM by craig nelson

when i use the hydraulics alot the oil gos into rear differental why. whats wrong and how can i fix it.

Re(1): 880 d

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 04:47:20 AM by Larry Harsin

The seals on the hydraulic pump are leaking oil. It probably needs new bearings and seals on the hydraulic pump. Larry

Re(2): 880 d

IP: 4.143.179.165 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 04:51:04 PM by craig

where can i get bearings and seals. are they hard to change. thanks craig

Re(3): 880 d

IP: 67.2.248.106 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 08:28:42 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get them from an AGCO Dealer or you can order them from me by email. You have to take the hydraulic unit out of the tractor, so you had better get a Shop Manual for your tractor from Charles City. Museum email: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. The PTO driveshaft that goes up to the engine, has to be removed, as it goes through the hydraulic pump. Then you must unbolt the hydraulic unit from the transmission and tip the unit up and out of the tractor. You will find there are 3 bolts that hold the hydraulic pump onto the hydraulic unit. After removing the pump from the hydraulic unit, it can be disassembled to put in new seals and bearings. If you are not familiar with repairing something of this nature, you can send it to me UPS and I will do it for you. Larry

1800 Rockshaft housing

IP: 205.245.254.76 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 06:48:27 AM by Rexalot

I have a 1962 1800 series B. The corner of the rockshaft housing where the left rear most remote screws in is broken off (about a 1" x 1" piece of the casting. I still have some of the threads and a new pipe will screw in). I bought the tractor this way and used JB weld for the past 4 years to plug the leak. Well, it leaks again and JB weld's not working this time. I did find the broken off piece in the tool box. I have access to a DC welder, although I've already tried brazing over the bad area with a new pipe screwed in. Still leaked. I have since removed the housing from the tractor. Anybody got a rockshaft housing near central Indy cheap? I've found one for $350 (bare)but I can't find any part numbers on my casting to match up. My filter bowl is on the left(early?). Not on the front. Any idea's?

Re(1): 1800 Rockshaft housing

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 04:45:14 AM by Larry Harsin

The filter location on the left is correct for the B series. There should be a part number on the casting someplace. Can you measure up the one you found and see if it fits? If you've found one within driving distance, it is probably better pricewise than finding one that has to be shipped. Freight is very high anymore. Larry

Re(2): 1800 Rockshaft housing

IP: 205.245.254.179 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 05:26:10 AM by Rexalot

I wrote the numbers off of the top down and tried them, but I think those are for the hydro electric switch pack. I'll give it another go over. I thought of some other things. Since I have this apart I noticed I can easily see my PTO clutch. I've had to make some adjustments to it in the past. I have it set by the I.T. manual and it "snaps" the handle when placed to on. It looks like a stack of metal discs to me. How can I tell if it's worn? My tractor is also missing most of the three point parts which isn't a problem for me (I bought it this way as my haying tractor)but since I'm in there now I might as well fix this to. Moving the control lever did nothing to the rock shaft. The internal lift cylinder link seemed "over center" but otherwise the piston was not stuck. What could be wrong here? Is there control valving I should look at?

Re(3): 1800 Rockshaft housing

IP: 67.2.248.106 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 08:34:58 PM by Larry Harsin

Normally they don't wear out, the main problem is that someone slips them and they won't hold properly and they won't disengage properly. If the lever snaps over-center when you engage it and the clutch works o.k., there is no problem. Considering the hydraulic, there is a bypass so as to alleviate pressure backup when you are operating one way cylinders. If this bypass is being used, the oil is bypassing the servo valve and therefore your 3 pt. will not work. So, it may be that there is nothing wrong with your servo valve and linkage. Larry

Re(4): 1800 Rockshaft housing

IP: 205.245.254.99 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 05:58:14 AM by Rexalot

I'll read up on how the servo valve is bypassed as you describe. I also picked up a copy of "Oliver Heritage" and see that you've got a help article there (you get around don't you!). I read the advice given for a similiar model with my problem.

Oliver 66 RC

IP: 207.200.116.135 Posted on March 7, 2006 at 06:48:43 PM by jack jackson

Just got an Oliver 66 Row Crop?? 0286-431226. Wondering about it and if there are any books on it. Would like to get it running again-was told it runs on butane. Jack--Texas

Re(1): Oliver 66 RC

IP: 67.2.242.82 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 06:17:47 AM by Larry Harsin

With serial number 431226, your Oliver 66 RC was built in 1952. You can get an Operator's Manual, a Shop Manual and a Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City IA. 641-228-1099 or email: fchs@fiai.net You will probably need only the Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 66 RC

IP: 207.200.116.12 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 01:09:06 PM by Jack Jackson

Does this model run on butane? Maybe someone has changed it over.....it says LP Gas on it. Jack

Re(3): Oliver 66 RC

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 04:38:40 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It would have had to had a "field conversion". It wasn't built that way, but it is possible that it uses LP gas. Larry

PTO sizes

IP: 216.166.159.184 Posted on March 7, 2006 at 01:56:31 PM by Dennis Bernard

I have an Oliver 1850, and recently placed a whole new rear pto assembly on with a clutch pack from an oliver 2150, and I found that the shaft had a different spline size or count in the new one from the 2150(smaller, or closer in size). What is the spline count I would need on a new shaft. Your information is greatly appreciated.

Re(1): PTO sizes

IP: 67.2.242.82 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 06:12:19 AM by Larry Harsin

The fine splined shaft is for 1000 rpm and the other is the 540 shaft which has the larger splines. You just need to get a 540 shaft. Larry

77 Gas Governor

IP: 69.221.249.6 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 02:49:45 PM by Kris

Hi, I just finished a complete rebuild on a 1948 77 gas. The engine surges at all rpms and I can't find any info on adjusting the governor spring in my IT manual. Any suggestions?

Re(1): 77 Gas Governor

IP: 67.2.248.105 Posted on March 7, 2006 at 06:41:21 AM by Larry Harsin

The adjustment for that is covered in the Operator's Manual for your tractor. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Phone: 641-228-1099. If you have not had it apart, you may have a worn thrust washer behind the governor gear. Also, you may need a new governor bumper spring. I have these parts. If you need them, email me. cobalt@rconnect.com Larry

Re(2): 77 Gas Governor

IP: 69.221.249.6 Posted on March 7, 2006 at 06:45:30 AM by Kris

Thanks for the reply. I replaced the bushing with the newer style from Korves which said to leave the washer out. Should I put it back in? I will order the manual. Would you e-mail pricing on the spring?

Re(3): 77 Gas Governor

IP: 67.2.242.82 Posted on March 8, 2006 at 06:07:08 AM by Larry Harsin

No. If Korves said to leave it out, leave it out. Larry

Super 77 PTO

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 07:28:35 AM by Chuck

Does anyone know how to "adjust" a PTO brake on a Super 77? I took everything apart and there is nothing broken or out of line. If I hold back on the lever it seems to hold ok, but is still always wanting to jump back into gear. There is about a half inch of shims in it and I didn't know if that had anything to do with it.

Re(1): Super 77 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.105 Posted on March 7, 2006 at 06:36:51 AM by Larry Harsin

There are 3 little springs that help to hold the plates apart when the clutch is disengaged. I think the part number is K1665A. The springs are supposed to be about 1" long. They may either be gone or just need to be replaced. I don't have these. You can get them from an AGCO dealer. Also, the metal center plate may be warped. If so, you will have to replace that. Larry

Re(2): Super 77 PTO

IP: 207.140.222.50 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 11:46:27 AM by Chuck

All the springs are in good shape, the tabs that fits into the slots where the springs are, seem tight though. Should I clean them up a little with a grinder? Also, I had a guy tell me that those adjustments are mainly in the stop bolt. Does that make sense?

Re(3): Super 77 PTO

IP: 67.2.248.106 Posted on March 9, 2006 at 08:37:11 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. What your friend told you is correct. It might be advisable to make it so that those parts slide more freely in that clutch. Larry

77 head

IP: 69.177.207.167 Posted on March 2, 2006 at 03:38:28 PM by frank

i have a 1953 77 , the head is in the shop being rebuilt. we think the head was already shaved,but dont know how much. i need some kind of measurement for this. do you know what the original measurement was,i dont want to take to much off the head and have hi compression and head gasket problems. thks. so much frank

Re(1): 77 head

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 07:10:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Typically machine shops do not take more off of the heads than is necessary to get them flat again. The only way that I would be able to tell, would be to set 2 heads side by side and compare. Larry

77 crankshaft seals

IP: 64.136.49.226 Posted on February 27, 2006 at 07:23:55 PM by Kathy Summers

Larry where can I get crankshaft seals for my 1950 77?

Re(1): 77 crankshaft seals

IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on March 3, 2006 at 06:22:12 PM by Jim Fitzgerald

You can get crank seals from an AGCO Dealer or from Korves Oliver at www.korvesoliver.com

Re(2): 77 crankshaft seals

IP: 143.115.155.55 Posted on March 5, 2006 at 06:37:00 PM by Larry Kruse

I just ordered a seal for my 550 from OBrien County Implement. Tom had an upgrade kit that changed if from the old type cork face seal to a new style neoprene seal.

Re(3): 77 crankshaft seals

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 07:06:46 AM by Larry Harsin

I have some of the cork seals. If you still need them, email me. Larry cobalt@rconnect.com

Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 139.55.241.50 Posted on February 27, 2006 at 02:39:40 PM by Rob

Larry, any idea where I can find a diaphram for my fuel lift pump on a 54 77 diesel. I'm getting fuel in the crank case and it looks like it is coming from the diapham on the fuel lift pump.

Re(1): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on February 27, 2006 at 06:18:19 PM by bradk

Try Tom @ O'Brien county Implement #800-320-6224 ~brad

Re(2): Oliver 77 diesel

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 07:02:36 AM by Larry Harsin

Korves Bros. is another good source. 618-939-6681 or email: korves@htc.net Larry

880 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.183.127 Posted on February 26, 2006 at 07:37:15 PM by Mike

Does anyone know where I can get a momentary restrictor swivel assembly for my 880 so I can use my 3 point with single acting cylinders? Agco dealer?

Re(1): 880 Hydraulics

IP: 209.240.224.217 Posted on February 27, 2006 at 06:26:52 PM by bradk

Jim Bendzick-Faribault Tractor @507-334-3422. ~brad

Re(2): 880 Hydraulics

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 06:59:04 AM by Larry Harsin

If you havn't gotten one by now, I have them. Send me an email. Larry cobalt@rconnect.com

1750 oliver diesel

IP: 72.11.16.6 Posted on February 25, 2006 at 08:55:53 AM by Lee Hoylman

My son in law has a 1750 diesel with hydraul shift. The tractor starts and runs ok at lower rpm. The longer the tractor runs, the worse it runs with the rpms dropping. The fuel filters have been changed. The tractor has a loader also. He just purchased the tractor recently so I don't have much history. Any clues?

Re(1): 1750 oliver diesel

IP: 4.249.156.156 Posted on February 25, 2006 at 10:32:13 AM by Larry from md

Check to see if the fuel is running free from the tank.Allso see that you can pump a good strem of fuel out the air bleeds on the injector pump.One other thing is the output restrictor on the top of the injector pump,if this is sticking open the pump can't make proper preasure.This is the small fitting under the elbow on top of the pump.

Re(2): 1750 oliver diesel

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 06:55:43 AM by Larry Harsin

Good answer from Larry from md. The first thing I would do is check for a restriction of the fuel supply coming out of the fuel tank. Then, crack the fuel line between the final filter and the injection pump while the engine is running, to see if there is good flow and pressure in that line. If there is not good flow and pressure, there may be a check valve in the transfer pump that is broken. (on the right side of the engine). Larry

770 carb icing up

IP: 69.19.14.16 Posted on February 23, 2006 at 05:39:35 PM by David Wells

Larry: I have had a bizarre problem start. The carb on my 770 freezes solid. The engine will run for about a minute then choke its self off. Taking the carb off the throttle body is full of ice, the outside of the carb is white with frost. This just started suddenly. And seems unrelated to air temperature. Any suggestions, Thanks for your help David

Re(1): 770 carb icing up

IP: 70.224.62.191 Posted on February 25, 2006 at 08:03:59 AM by 90%ret'd

My past expreience with this problem showed up more when the humidity was high, the only solution I found was to divert the air intake for the air cleaner from above the hood to under the hood. the warmer air from under the hood prevented the iceing. Oliver had a kit for some of the tractors that picked up warm air from the around the exhaust pipe for those conditions and from above the hood otherwise, it had a valve with a cable to control it. Someone else might know of one of those kits some where on a shelf.

Re(2): 770 carb icing up

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 28, 2006 at 12:42:53 PM by J. Ulmer

You are experiencing the refrigeration principle from lowering gas pressure plus evaporation (of the liquid gasoline mist vaporizing) lowering the temperature of the passing air to cause condensation and freezing of the condensation into ice in the carb. Aircraft have carb heat to prevent this phenomenum from causing a stall (and crash!) If your air filters are more restrictive (dirt/moisture) it can pull more vacuum ahead of the venturi's exacerbating the problem...Since they made a kit I guess other people had the same problem. It gets too dang cold up there for this Texas guy anyway, so I just go to the house!!When its really cold try diverting warmer intake air from cowling under hood off of the radiator and exhaust manifolds. Since it showed up suddenly, I would check for a restriction in your intake/filter system which could be "pre-vacuuming" and lowering the inlet pressure on the carb more. Paper, plastic bags, dead birds, ect can plug up and restrict your incoming air flow. Good Luck! Jerry

1550 Hydraulic

IP: 65.118.253.130 Posted on February 21, 2006 at 07:13:04 PM by Dave Drury

Larry, The bypass valve adjustment that you back out for single action cylinder operation........located by right heel in front of and below the remote levers......If you take that bolt and jamnut out, what else would I find in that oil passage? Mine doesn't have anything and it is leaking around the jam nut. Shouldn't there be a copper washer under the jam nut? and maybe a spring and ball in the passageway?

Re(1): 1550 Hydraulic

IP: 4.249.138.55 Posted on February 22, 2006 at 05:45:04 PM by Larry from md

There should be a steel ball inside the hole.When screwed in there should be no leakage around the bolt.When screwed out there is sometimes a little seepage.The ball is large and just fits through the bolt hole.

Re(2): 1550 Hydraulic

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 06:45:10 AM by Larry Harsin

There is a ball in there, but it won't come out. There is a threaded jam nut that has a nylon insert to keep it from leaking. You need to replace that. Larry

What is it??

IP: 63.77.104.60 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 03:11:36 PM by Ray

My mother in-law has an old Oliver tractor but i can not figure out what it is. The specification number is 18-0002, and the Serial number is 36-593-801. It has "Oliver Rowcrop" on the axle. Any info would be aprichated.Thank you.

Re(1): What is it??

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 09:29:02 PM by Larry Harsin

The serial number would work for a Super 77 or a Super 88 if the "36" was a "38". Look carefully at your serial number. They would both say Row Crop. Check your numbers on the block, above the starter. Is there an M100B or a K100D or E? If it is an "M" number it is a 77 or S77. If it is a "K" number, it is an 88 or S88. The block number for a S88 is KA100E. Larry

Re(2): What is it??

IP: 209.50.29.137 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 11:33:04 PM by B A Star

The specification number, "18-0002" tells us that it is a Super 88.

2255 hydrulics

IP: 67.37.50.193 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 12:38:03 PM by matt strasburg

the hydrulics on owr 2255 cut out when working in the feild. we have replaced the pump and filters but it didn't help. any ideas

Re(1): 2255 hydrulics

IP: 67.2.248.227 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 09:20:36 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't think I can help you much with this. You should talk to your AGCO Dealer or get a Shop Manual with a "trouble shooting guide" in it. Is the unit heating? If so, what part of the system is getting hot? Is it steering or brakes, or the circuit that goes to the remotes? The part of the system that is heating would be an indication that the regulating valve for that unit is by-passing or leaking. Larry

Re(2): 2255 hydrulics

IP: 67.37.50.153 Posted on February 15, 2006 at 11:09:19 AM by matt strasburg

when it happens we lose everything. Our AGCO deal looked at it and thought they fixed the proublem.

3 Point

IP: 67.2.182.207 Posted on February 13, 2006 at 09:17:00 PM by Mike

Larry is it still possible to get on and off the back of an 880 with factory or aftermarket 3 point on the tractor.

Re(1): 3 Point

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 06:07:20 AM by Larry Harsin

Not very easily. Larry

Re(2): 3 Point

IP: 208.5.112.11 Posted on March 12, 2006 at 10:12:44 AM by Marty

I put a after market three point on my 880 and it works great. However it made getting on and off the tractor hard because I had to remove the steps. I tried to turn them around but would not fit I used the bracket and made smaller steps facing the front and it worked out really well. Marty

change in engine sound

IP: 63.230.50.191 Posted on February 13, 2006 at 04:44:55 PM by Ray

I recently switched my super 88 gas to electronic ignition, and at the same time put in new spark plugs. I then had my tractor mechanic set the timing with his gun. Since then, the engine seems louder, and you can much more clearly hear the cylinders working. The tractor runs perfectly otherwise, and doesn't seem to have lost any power. Should I be concerned?

Re(1): change in engine sound

IP: 67.2.248.13 Posted on February 13, 2006 at 05:05:47 PM by Larry Harsin

No, you shouldn't be concerned. That engine should be at full throttle when timed. Then it will say "ignition" where he uses his gun to time it. Larry

Re(2): change in engine sound

IP: 63.230.50.191 Posted on February 13, 2006 at 07:45:55 PM by Ray

Larry, Thanks for the quick answer! I don't think he had it all the way at full throttle when he timed it. I'll have to have him give it another go. I kind of suspected that the timing was a bit behind. I also wanted to tell you that I found a solution to the loud whine in the upper range of gears: I drained the 80-90 gear oil and replaced it with GL-1 140 weight. It still whines, but it's much quieter.

Re(3): change in engine sound

IP: 67.2.248.202 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 06:05:41 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad you found something to improve the whine. Larry

Re(4): change in engine sound

IP: 12.150.181.20 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 12:39:16 PM by Daniel

Hi Larry, We used to run a couple of 990 GM Olivers with the 3 cylinder diesel engine. Good Grief but those tractors were loud. Do you think changing the gear oil would have quieted them any? I know they had a supercharged engine, and that contributed to it, but it seemed worst in 4th and 6th gears, your main road gear and main field gear. The other gears weren't so bad. Any info?

Re(5): change in engine sound

IP: 67.2.248.150 Posted on March 6, 2006 at 06:36:38 AM by Larry Harsin

Heavier oil in there wouldn't hurt anything and it might help. Larry

Oliver 1800 motor

IP: 72.145.237.67 Posted on February 12, 2006 at 06:54:13 PM by Dave

Larry, Might you or someone have a lead on a decent running Oliver 1800 motor to farm with not pulling. I have hit a brick wall. I appreciate any help.

Re(1): Oliver 1800 motor

IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on February 12, 2006 at 09:27:50 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't have one. You could check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I just don't know who to send you to. Larry

Re(2): Oliver 1800 motor

IP: 12.150.181.20 Posted on February 14, 2006 at 12:14:08 PM by Daniel

Hi Dave, No help with an 1800 gas engine, but my dad redid our 1800 diesel, and used an 1850 gas engine. It's a higher hp engine than what the 1800 had, but a 1750 gas should be approx the same size. The 1750 replaced the 1800, and an 1850 was added to the line due to the large hp jump between the 1800 and 1900. If origional isn't necessary, then try one of these. Dad did have to rewire the tractor for neg ground, the Diesel 1800 was pos ground, but don't know if your 1800 gas is pos or neg ground, it might not be an issue for you. Hope this helps.

oliver 60

IP: 72.236.237.129 Posted on February 12, 2006 at 06:33:40 AM by Joe Brubaker

Do you know where I can buy a complete engine rebuild kit for my 60? Sleeves,pistonn,rings,bearings,valves, srings,gaskets,etc Thanks

Re(1): oliver 60

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on February 12, 2006 at 07:35:48 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know. Check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 and Korves Bros. Oliver 618-939-6681 Website: www.korvesoliver.com Larry

oliver 770 standard

IP: 67.150.211.51 Posted on February 11, 2006 at 09:08:43 PM by Gary Veldhuizen

I would like to know about turbo charging a 770 diesel. How much can i gain in Hp. where can I get turbo charger for 770 diesle

Re(1): oliver 770 standard

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on February 12, 2006 at 07:33:22 AM by Larry Harsin

As far as I know, there are no kits available to do this. I have not seen it done on this particular engine. I'd reccommend that you call Central Fuel Injection and talk to Bill 712-362-4200 or website: www.centralfuelinjection.com Larry

Gemmer Power Steering

IP: 24.116.90.174 Posted on February 11, 2006 at 04:57:13 PM by Dave

Larry: I have a gemmer power steering unit on my 770D. I have power steering when I turn to the right but no power steering at all when I turn left. I have bled the system and there are no external leaks on the gear unit. Pump is full of fluid. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Re(1): Gemmer Power Steering

IP: 67.2.249.206 Posted on February 11, 2006 at 09:00:25 PM by Larry Harsin

Your problem is in the control end of the unit. This is on the left side. The unit will have to be taken out of the tractor and that aluminum end cover will have to be removed. Probably the trouble is too much slack in the control end, or the control spool may be broken. If you want, send the unit to me and I'll repair it for you. Larry

oliver 770 standard threepoint hitch

IP: 67.150.211.159 Posted on February 11, 2006 at 01:20:56 AM by Gary Veldhuizen

I would like to know where i can find a three point hitch to put on my oliver770 standard. an aftermarket three point hitch would be fine.

Re(1): oliver 770 standard threepoint hitch

IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on February 11, 2006 at 06:31:17 AM by Larry Harsin

You can get an aftermarket hitch from Saginaw County Tractor Parts 810-638-5787. Be sure you tell them that you are putting it on a Standard. Larry

dust shields

IP: 72.131.56.240 Posted on February 10, 2006 at 03:49:32 PM by Randy

Will the wheatland dust shields from a 770 standard fit on a 77 standard?

Re(1): dust shields

IP: 67.2.249.251 Posted on February 10, 2006 at 07:41:20 PM by Larry Harsin

No. They're different. Doug Johnson had some of them made up. Check with him at email: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com or call him: 310-347-6332. Larry

3 Pt.

IP: 67.2.183.202 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 07:12:19 PM by Mike

Larry will a 3 point off of a 77 fit a 770 or 880 ? Can you tell me how to tell if it is really a factory oliver 3 point or if it is aftermarket ? Is there a easy way to tell ?

Re(1): 3 Pt.

IP: 67.2.242.84 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 09:26:03 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. The best way to find out if it is "Oliver", would be to get an Oliver parts book from the museum and compare it. Their phone: 641-228-1099. Email: fchs@fiai.net It takes an experienced eye to look at it and tell which it is. Larry

550 Freeze Plug Question(s)

IP: 71.105.135.200 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 04:18:45 PM by Preston Bell

I have a 1966 (or so) Oliver backhoe/loader with a 4-cylinder Waukesha based diesel engine. Last winter I forgot to drain the radiator when I put it in winter storage and when I went to fill it up with fluids in the spring it took a lot of water. The crankcase than started overflowing. I realized than what had happened and walked away in disgust (at myself)!. Something has frozen and broke. The water leak was almost straight through from the radiator in volumn. Not a small leak by any means. I am hoping it is not the engine block, but cannot find where it is coming from. From the parts manual I see a possibility that there are some freeze plugs (or expansion plugs) several places in the engine. 5 in the cylinder head, one on the back of the block in the clutch area and probably more. The 550 has the loader and backhoe on and it is very difficult to get to the engine for disassembly. I am trying to find out if there is an easier way to determine where the water is coming from inside the engine. Also perhaps someone is familiar with all the locations of possible freeze plugs within the engine that could lead from the cooling system to the crankcase. Thanking anyone with info in advance. Preston of the Mojave

Re(1): 550 Freeze Plug Question(s)

IP: 67.2.242.84 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 09:21:14 PM by Larry Harsin

There is at least one and possibly 2 - 1 inch expansion plugs under the valve cover on top of the cylinder head, in the area beneath the rocker arm shaft. Take the valve cover off and have a look. There are also 1 or 2 of these between the rocker arm cover and the exhaust manifold. These are the only expansion plugs that I know of, that help to protect the cooling system on this engine, from freezing. Larry

Changing Input Shafts

IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 10:42:03 AM by Jim

I'm working on a '54 Super 88 Diesel. I removed the old damaged input shaft and have a good used one to replace the old one. I have two questions - how do I remove the front oil seal that is on the shaft (no belt pulley so it has the front bearing retainer housing piece) and second - my good used shaft is same diameter and size except it is like 1/4 inch longer that the old one. Will that interfere with the hyd. pump or will it be ok?

Re(1): Changing Input Shafts

IP: 67.2.242.84 Posted on February 9, 2006 at 09:13:18 PM by Larry Harsin

That seal is driven back into the retainer and the new one is installed from inside the retainer, pushing out. So you'll have to remove the retainer from the tractor, then drive the old seal down into the retainer to remove it. The new seal will be installed from the inside facing out. That used shaft should work o.k., but when you get it installed, it should be flush with the back edge of the bearing. If it isn't, you should remove the shaft and cut it off with a chop saw. Larry

77 clutch,one way hyd,installing belt pulley housing

IP: 216.138.41.61 Posted on February 8, 2006 at 08:34:15 PM by vernor dwayne hibbard

the I&Tmanual says to remove motor to replace the clutch is that necessary? what has to be done to use a one way wagon hoist? i have a pulley drive for may 77. how hard wood it be to install while i am doing the clutch?

Re(1): 77 clutch,one way hyd,installing belt pulley housing

IP: 67.2.242.99 Posted on February 8, 2006 at 09:24:50 PM by Larry Harsin

No. That is not necessary on a 77. On a 77, I leave the engine in the tractor. I unbolt the dash and "fold" it up over the engine, that way you don't have to drain the cooling system and unhook the wires etc. Then proceed to replace the clutch or work on the drive train. This is the time to install the belt pulley drive after you get your clutch done. You have to remove and discard the housing that holds the input shaft seal. Also, you will have to remove a plug that is just above the shifter poppet block, so that the transmission oil can get into the belt pulley housing. For the wagon hoist on a 77, I like to use the left hand control valve. You will have to install a momentary restrictor in the one outlet. Then run that hose from that outlet back into the drain on the hydraulic unit. The part numbers for the spring and the plunger in the momentary restrictor are K2114 & K2115. Possibly, I should have also said that this procedure also applies to 88's as well as the 77's. Larry

paint

IP: 216.16.38.211 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 09:37:45 PM by Denton

Hi,Larry Wondering if you could tell me the correct paint codes for a 880 oliver diesel for the green and the clover white. THANKS

Re(1): paint

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 11:15:10 PM by Larry Harsin

I use AGCO's Meadow Green and Clover White. It is good paint and is less money than NAPA. The paint codes you are asking for are: Meadow Green is Martin Senour 99L 3751 Clover White is PPG Brand DAR 8805 (Alabaster White) or PPG Brand DAR 46536 (Heather Green). Larry 

converting nf to wide front

IP: 65.118.235.6 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 09:59:52 AM by Paul Clouse

Ok oliver pros. I have a 770 nf with power steering(original) that I want to put a wide front on that is a non ps unit with the saginaw steering box on it. Will I be able to use the power steering unit on my tractor now? what will I need to do it?

Re(1): converting nf to wide front

IP: 67.2.249.20 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 11:04:56 PM by Larry Harsin

No. You won't be able to use it. The pedestal, pitman shaft and arm are all different. The best thing you can do is get a wide front off of a 1655, a 1555 or a 50 series tractor. One of them will work. Larry

oliver 70

IP: 12.47.34.95 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 01:06:56 AM by elijah quist

I got a few questions on my 45 oliver 70 -just got my row crop running today and it will only run if the choke is on almost all the way as soon as you shut it off it dies, I cleaned the carb and put an o ring where the felt gasket was for the throttle flange, and the bushings for the flange ar worn out I think it may be leaking there, should I just get a rebuilt carb if so where do i get one also can I run regular gas in it or do you have to use leaded gas. -I have a 70 standard that I baught and it had a rear end put in it, the inspection cover is off, should i look for any problems in there before i put it back together

Re(1): oliver 70

IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 06:06:27 AM by Larry Harsin

If you can get it to run satisfactorily the way you repaired it, leave it alone. I would remove the outlet from the fuel tank and the fuel strainer and make sure they are not restricted with foreign material. Do this before replacing the carb. On the 70 Standard, I would certainly inspect it for any problems before putting it back together. Larry

Re(2): oliver 70

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 8, 2006 at 04:43:42 AM by J. Ulmer

You might also blow through the fuel line while it is disconnected and see that it flows well. Kinks in tubing and seperation in hoses can limit fuel flow as well and I have had both.

Re(3): oliver 70

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 8, 2006 at 04:47:08 AM by J. Ulmer

I don't know how the tank lid and vents are on that unit, but if these other fixes don't work, try running it with the top loose. If you draw a vacuum in the fuel tank it will not flow out to the carb either. Good Luck. Jerry

oliver1610 loader

IP: 64.147.39.46 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 08:10:29 PM by d.kautz

will this loader work on an oliver 88 or an 1855 i can buy this loader reasonable and i am looking for a reasonable loader and tractor

Re(1): oliver1610 loader

IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 05:59:49 AM by Larry Harsin

It will work on both of those tractors. This loader is a good match for an 88 and will work on an 1855, but it is not built strong enough for heavy work on a big tractor. Larry

super 77

IP: 216.114.209.138 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 04:18:16 PM by Lyle Van Engen

Larry, I have a super 77 that has a seal out that leaks into the brake discs can i remove the entire drum ass. from the outside or do i need to take the deck off to assist in this ? thanks Lyle

Re(1): super 77

IP: 67.2.242.7 Posted on February 6, 2006 at 05:57:08 AM by Larry Harsin

Just remove the brake housing from the side. When you do it, make sure the mounting studs are tight. Also, there are drain holes to let oil get out of the housing if it leaks past the seal. Make sure they aren't plugged. Larry

1655

IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 02:24:45 PM by Bill fleck

I was going to replace the rubber gaskets on the fuel lines, thatgo into the fuel block that holds the glass filter, is there any tricks to make it easier and less messy.I also want to replace the Hyd.filter, just wondered if their are any tricks to that, I think the book says to torque it to minamum 150 pounds. Thanks for your help. Trying to get the leaks stopped hope to get it painted someday. Bill

Re(1): 1655

IP: 67.2.249.85 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 03:55:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know of any tricks....Just do what the book says. Same on the hyd. filter. Larry

Waukesha F320G Question

IP: 142.161.219.197 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 11:25:28 AM by Hank

I am putting a Waukesha F320G engine into an 88 Oliver. I am looking for someone who has done this switch to give me a few tips. Please email me if you can help me out or know someone who can. Thanks, HANK

Re(1): Waukesha F320G Question

IP: 67.2.249.159 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 12:19:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I havn't had any experience putting them in an Oliver. However, I have heard that they will work. Larry

1550 LPG

IP: 68.103.123.197 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 10:54:17 AM by Kevin Rooney

Do You Have An Idea about how many were made on L-P? There is one at a nearby auction. Value?

Re(1): 1550 LPG

IP: 67.2.249.159 Posted on February 5, 2006 at 12:16:47 PM by Larry Harsin

I have no idea how many were made. Value depends on condition, condition, condition. If it is in good condition and complete, I'd say it is worth $3000 - $4500. Larry

1947 60

IP: 167.142.10.231 Posted on February 2, 2006 at 06:55:27 PM by mike

I,m looking for a releif valve for my engine oil system do any other oliver tractors have them in the block? I,m also wondering if any body no of a replacement shock for the monroe easy ride seat. thanks

Re(1): 1947 60

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on February 3, 2006 at 06:08:56 AM by Larry Harsin

According to the parts book, the relief valve in a 60 is the same as in a 66, 77 or 88, but the spring is different. The relief valve is the same, but the location is different on the engine. It is on the center right below the oil filter. For the replacement shock, check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276. Larry

660

IP: 142.177.78.90 Posted on February 2, 2006 at 04:05:12 PM by Arnold

NOT A MECHANICAL QUESTION. I have a 1959, 660 gas and of all the searching i have done, i can only find very very little infomation or parts for my tractor. So my question is, is the 660 a special model or were their not very many produced. Lots of pictures of other models and lots of parts but not many of my model. Any information would be appreciated.

Re(1): 660

IP: 67.2.249.88 Posted on February 3, 2006 at 05:55:25 AM by Larry Harsin

There were only about 1500 660's built. Very few of them have been parted out, making used parts hard to find. You can get Operator's Manual, Service Manual and Parts Manual from the Museum in Charles City. Email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. For information: "The 660 was the only one of the 550-660-770-880-990 family of tractors that retained the sheet-metal styling that had been used on the previous Super series tractors. However, the 660 did feature the new paint scheme as used on the rest of the three-digit tractors." - Oliver Tractor Data Book by Brian Rukes. Larry

Oliver crawler identification

IP: 67.35.193.201 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 08:17:44 PM by Adam

Hi, I really hope you can help. I have a chance to buy what seems to be an Oliver OC-46. Problem(s) The numbers off the engine plate don't seem to match with any lists that I've looked up. The engine was siezed and the owner soaked the pistons and rings with penetrating oil twice a day, after a week he put a wrench to driveshaft? to start loosening the engine. It worked. But the skirt of the piston 2nd from aft apparently cracked. The chunk that broke off while the engine was running, broke up near the oil ring. A 3/16? inch long piece actually made into the oil pump. The gears locked up. So, I need to identify the machine so I can get parts pricing before I decide to buy it. numbers... TXB35L 3-1/4x4 2473213 008 Any help at all would be appreciated. It's to cute a machine, and really perfectly sized to my needs. Thanks, AdamL

Re(1): Oliver crawler identification

IP: 67.2.242.125 Posted on January 31, 2006 at 06:39:12 AM by Larry Harsin

Check all of this out with Zimmerman Cletrac. Oliver used at least 2 different engines and Landis will be able to answer your questions better than I. Email: zoc@att.net Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry

Re(2): Oliver crawler identification

IP: 4.249.105.182 Posted on January 31, 2006 at 03:42:33 PM by Larry from Md.

Thats an IXB 3 SL hercules engine.This means it has shell inserts for bearings and are much easyer to replace than the babbited engine.Casting numbers can be hard to read sometimes and it helps if you know what your looking for.Zimmermans should be able to fix you up.

Re(3): Oliver crawler identification

IP: 67.35.196.138 Posted on February 3, 2006 at 10:56:14 PM by AdamL

Thanks for the help. I've been thinking about it for a week and still can't make up my mind.

1250 Cockshutt

IP: 198.164.4.48 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 07:04:19 PM by Daniel

Larry last winter I sent you a message about 3pt hitch problems. You thought the new oil might be too thick. anyway turns out the problem was the steel high pressure filter. when we rebuilt the hitch it was hard to find a relacement filter so we washed it. Needless to say not well enough. we located a new one. hitch works great. All this to say thanks for your help you were pretty close. it was an oil flow problem and you did mention a filter although not in the same spot but it was a help anyway. Again thankyou.

Re(1): 1250 Cockshutt

IP: 67.2.242.125 Posted on January 31, 2006 at 06:35:13 AM by Larry Harsin

Glad to point you in the right direction. Larry

Loader for Oliver 1650

IP: 64.12.116.200 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 01:43:40 PM by David Lowndes

I'm looking at buying a 1650 that's in great shape. I'm wondering what availability there is of fully hydraulic loaders for this tractor. ie, brand, model, and approx value/cost of loaders that will fit. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): Loader for Oliver 1650

IP: 67.2.249.235 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 06:49:10 PM by Larry Harsin

Brand sort of depends on the area where you live. In my area, a Westendorf WL 42 is a popular loader. Used ones are from $2500 to $3500 here. An Oliver 1610 loader would be in the $1500 to $2000. Larry

70rc rear axle retainer

IP: 216.196.228.174 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 01:04:24 PM by gene bustle

i am restoring my grandfathers 39 rc70. the left axle has a bearing retainer (b704 by parts book info)and a felt seal. the right side has no bearing retainer but has a metal/rubber seal along with the felt seal cramed into the b701 rear axle bearing cap. i think the tractor was ran this way for years, should i leave it alone or find a retainer? i remember as a boy seeing the wheel off the tractor and being told the axle was broken. can you give me any help

Re(1): 70rc rear axle retainer

IP: 67.2.249.235 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 06:45:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I think I would leave it alone. They probably had to get a different style axle when they put that replacement in, and therefore, it might be a later style. I'd be inclined to leave it be if it isn't giving trouble. Larry

1954 Super 88 Diesel

IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 04:05:46 PM by Jim

I just purchased a 1954 Super 88 Diesel (s.n is a 6-thousand number but I can't remember it exactly since I didnt write it down and havent brought it home yet). The tractor is a second-owner tractor and seems to be all original. The draw bar appears to be the lighter one like from a Fleetline 88. The air intake is still the hose with wire end under the hood by the radiator like on a 88. It does not a have a hole in the hood for a pre-cleaner. It has the dual, horizontal oil filters and has a fleetline style seat. Just wondering if anyone knew if Oliver used some left-over Fleetline parts on some of the early Supers. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks. Jim

Re(1): 1954 Super 88 Diesel

IP: 67.2.248.61 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 06:29:43 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think they did. The first 2 years, a lot of the parts were the same. For instance, the drawbars were the same for the first 2 years of production. I think you are lucky to have found one that the hood hasn't been cut for the precleaner. That will make it easier to restore. Larry

oc-3 crawler tractor

IP: 66.52.202.60 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 03:22:49 PM by cawbaw1

Need points for a model X magneto. Engine is model 1XB3 Hercules gasoline. Where might they be available? Thanks Much, Dick

Re(1): oc-3 crawler tractor

IP: 67.2.248.61 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 06:22:23 AM by Larry Harsin

Zimmerman Cletrac. Email: zoc@att.net Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry

550D positive ground?

IP: 4.154.207.84 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 09:22:52 AM by bill

i have a 550D i saw a post that mentioned that a 550 gas had a positive ground you did not comment one way or other i have no manual and when i bought it battery was in as a negative ground if it is positive has any damage been done?

Re(1): 550D positive ground?

IP: 67.2.249.28 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 02:59:41 PM by Larry Harsin

All of the 550's were built with positive ground. But if your gauges in your gauge cluster work with it the way it is, don't change it! The reason I say this, is because, some of those replacement gauges were built with negative ground, so when they replaced a gauge, they changed the tractor to match the new gauge cluster. But, if your gauges are not working, then you may want to change it back to positive ground and go from there. There hasn't necessarily been any damage done, I don't know, you will have to check these things out. Larry

Re(2): 550D positive ground?

IP: 67.2.249.28 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 03:02:20 PM by Larry Harsin

You can get an Operator's Manual from the Museum in Charles City. You can email them: fchs@fiai.net or Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry

Re(3): 550D positive ground?

IP: 4.157.86.137 Posted on January 30, 2006 at 08:09:38 AM by bill

thanks larry for your help. i have no gauges so no worries there. i really enjoy the site keep up the great work. bill

440 Oliver

IP: 205.188.116.201 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 07:38:33 AM by Rod Liming

How many of the 440's were actually made. Thanks, Rod

Re(1): 440 Oliver

IP: 67.2.249.28 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 02:49:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The beginning serial number was 85725. The beginning serial number for the last year made was 121833. They don't give us the ending number. We don't really know how many were made as the serial numbers weren't consecutive. Ollie Schaefer is very knowledgeable on the 440. Perhaps he could give you an idea. Ollie's email is: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry

1650 diesel

IP: 209.191.198.12 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 07:37:36 AM by John Ungerecht

Good Morning folks' I was wondering if anyone could help me with some information for repair or replacement of an early model 1650 head. casting # on head is 221 02 and number on Cockshutt 1650 is 265-4225 168 020 468 The head I have is badly cracked and has been pinned and fixed in a number of places and when I took it apart was leaking . Is a head with the older side injectors. Will a head from another model fit this engine? Will a head from a later model work with the pencil type injectors if one gets the injector lines too? Just wondering about any help on the availabity of a head or options. Thanks folks and I enjoy reading your website very much. Have a good day John

Re(1): 1650 diesel

IP: 67.2.249.28 Posted on January 29, 2006 at 02:43:45 PM by Larry Harsin

The later style with the pencil style injectors will not work on this engine. I think the head from an 1800 B or C engine will work on this engine. You can check with Valu-Bilt 888-828-3276 or Chapin Machine & Welding 800-648-1083. They will be able to help you. You will have to have the number 221 02. Larry

Oliver 66 filter

IP: 12.175.19.198 Posted on January 27, 2006 at 02:36:33 PM by Randy L

Can someone please tell me the Hastings part number for the oil filter on a 1951 Oliver 66. The AC filter that I took off is a P-411 and that crosses to a Hastings LF-407 or LF-409 but the threads are too short to get it started on the oil filter base.(Mason jar type base)The parts man said it crosses over to a HF39?? something ,, but he said that is for the 1957 and later models. Any help is appreciated,, thanks again.

Re(1): Oliver 66 filter

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on January 27, 2006 at 06:14:54 PM by Larry Harsin

The AGCO part number is 100-126ASA. I don't know the Hastings part number. Larry

hydraulic pump removal

IP: 194.130.70.28 Posted on January 27, 2006 at 08:15:27 AM by Greg Mueller

I am trying to remove a hydraulic unit and pump from a Oliver 880 to install in my Oliver 88 tractor. I have seen this done on a Oliver 77 with a series 3 pump. I have pulled out the PTO shaft and removed the bolts on the top of the unit housing. Unit is loose but pump seems to be still connected. What am I missing to complete this removal? Thanks for the help.

Re(1): hydraulic pump removal

IP: 67.2.248.182 Posted on January 27, 2006 at 06:09:15 PM by Larry Harsin

If you have pulled the PTO shaft out, there is nothing left to hold the hydraulic unit in the tractor. I am assuming that you have removed the gear shift lever from the unit. Kind of roll it to the back and up out of there. Larry

Re(2): hydraulic pump removal

IP: 207.91.2.198 Posted on January 27, 2006 at 09:14:37 PM by Greg Mueller

Larry, I have not removed the gear shift lever. I would assume I take out the bolts holding it to the hydraulic unit and the gear shift lever will pull out?

Re(3): hydraulic pump removal

IP: 67.2.248.39 Posted on January 28, 2006 at 10:59:54 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes. That is how you remove it. Be careful not to drop the centering springs down into the hole when you lift the lever out. Larry

Super 88 Radiator

IP: 64.113.72.211 Posted on January 26, 2006 at 08:26:39 PM by Jim

I was wondering if the radiator is different between a gas engine and diesel engine for a 1954 Super 88 Diesel?

Re(1): Super 88 Radiator

IP: 67.2.248.17 Posted on January 26, 2006 at 10:26:02 PM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there is a difference. The diesel radiator was pressurized and the gas wasn't at that time. Larry

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