pulling hubs w/o breaking

IP: 12.216.134.244 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 05:13:21 PM by Brian

Larry, I need to pull the rear hubs on my 60 to replace leaking seals. They are STUCK. Any suggestions as to how to remove them without breaking them? Since they have 2 clamping bolts on the inside I thought about cutting a slot in the hub inline with the existing slot for the clamp bolts so it could expand a little. I'm thinking that the 2 bolts should hold the hub in place and the rim would keep the hub from expanding. What do you suggest? Thanks, Brian. P.S. I broke my "Roger Welsch custom stuck piston remover" (piece of old hedge fence post) with a sledge hammer trying to loosen them.

Re(1): pulling hubs w/o breaking

IP: 67.2.249.209 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 06:49:43 PM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to heat them up with a torch and use a puller on them. It will take a good heavy puller from your Farm Supply store or somewhere. You have to push against the axle with the puller hooked onto the hub. When you get that puller on there and get it tight, apply the heat. It will take a lot of heat. Use a medium sized hammer and tap firmly on the hub. Keep heating and beating. The old "Heat and Beat" procedure takes lots of patience. Sorry you broke your "Roger Welsch Special". Larry

Re(2): pulling hubs w/o breaking

IP: 69.20.199.46 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 09:25:51 PM by Larry Kruse

I had the same problem with my 70. I wire brushed the grooves as best a possible. Soaked the hub and groves with PB Blaster or any GOOD penetrating oil. I rotated the wheels every day and reapplied the penetrating oil. BEWARE OF HITTING THE HUB TOO HARD. You want to move the hub on the shaft, and not destroy the rearend gears/bearings and case.

Oliver 1250

IP: 65.54.154.146 Posted on February 27, 2007 at 08:59:56 PM by Jeff

is there a place to putlift oil in or does it feed off the transmissioin fluid. I was told it feeds off trans.

Re(1): Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 05:03:08 AM by Larry Harsin

You should get an Operator's Manual, so that you know what oil to use where. Get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net I believe their lift oil is separate from the transmission. Larry

1450 oliver

IP: 67.142.130.26 Posted on February 27, 2007 at 08:52:08 PM by keith gilmore

I have a 1450 oliver with a leaking head gasket has had head shaved and new gasket leaks worse now. any suggestiions on a fix. would have block planed if this would work but would really not want to tear down engine. I have discoverd that this is a common problem with these motors and hope that a simple fix might be found. I have avoided breaking off any head bolts(another common problem I found). Do you know who could do this work if it is more than I can tackle. Any help or suggestions are welcome. This was a stout tractor and I would hate to see it continue to set in this condition.

Re(1): 1450 oliver

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 05:00:19 AM by Larry Harsin

I have never worked on the Fiat Olivers, so I don't know their quirks. Contact Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557 and check out this website for Danny Bowes: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Possibly, they can help you. www.agpartsfirst.com might have some of the parts you might need. Larry

Re(2): 1450 oliver

IP: 216.46.209.133 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 08:41:56 AM by Randy Lund

I heard tell once of an 1855 that kept blowing head gaskets as fast as they could put them in. Turns out that when they were tightening it,they ran out of threads just before the gasket came down tight as it should. They put heavy washers in it out of a Deere and it solved the problem. If the head has been milled,I wonder if this might be the same case.

Re(3): 1450 oliver

IP: 70.157.36.7 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 11:09:02 AM by keith gilmore

Thanks for the tips. I had not thought about the head bolts bottoming out. That should be easy to ck. before I have to do more extensive work. The stock head gasket is copper and fairly expensive when you can find them so I would want to be fairly sure of my fix before I waste another one. Also I have heard of people having custom, extra thick gaskets made for antique pulling tractors. Any thoughts on if this might be helpful.

oliver 66

IP: 4.253.9.112 Posted on February 27, 2007 at 08:18:44 PM by steven hopper

I recently purchased a 1950 oliver 66.the guy said it had a rebuilt engine and clutch.when I leave it set for more than 2 weeks the clutch is stuck. I have to start it up,and pop it in gear and hold clutch down for a while before it will come loose.the engine also seems to vibrate more than it should.

Re(1): oliver 66

IP: 67.2.242.123 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 04:53:25 AM by Larry Harsin

You are going to have to take the PTO drive shaft out of the rear of the tractor. Then, uncouple the clutch shaft in front of the transmission, unbolt the bell housing and slide it back so that you can remove the clutch, inspect it and do what is needed. It could be greasy-sticky, which could mean just cleaning it up, or, possibly, it could need a rear main seal installed, if it looks like that is where the greasy-sticky is coming from. Larry

loader on a 1755

IP: 199.155.238.225 Posted on February 26, 2007 at 05:02:39 PM by Glen

I am mounting an Ezee-on loader (don't know the model #)on a 1755 diesel. What is the best option for powering the hydraulics on the loader. Would using one bank of the remotes work alright, or is there a better way. I would prefer not to use a pto pump. I need to be able to run three spools for the loader and grapple. Thanks in advance.

Re(1): loader on a 1755

IP: 67.2.249.161 Posted on February 27, 2007 at 00:51:16 AM by Larry Harsin

Using one bank is o.k. There are 2 different ways you can go about this. You can get a single spool, closed center valve and plumb into the existing valve, down on the valve bank. Or you could get a 3rd valve from your AGCO dealer, and install it so that it is just like the other valves and the control lever will be in the cab with the other levers. Larry

Re(2): loader on a 1755

IP: 70.105.70.117 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 10:46:10 PM by doug wenig

you can also install a power beyond fitting in the line that goes around the back side of the hydraulic housing that supplies the remotes and power your valve there look in a white 2-105 parts book for the fitting part number and the return oil goes back in the housing at the lower rear corner....just like plumbing a 2-105 to run the blower on my 5100 white planter i have this set up on my 2-105 and it works great

paint

IP: 71.208.17.81 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 09:47:32 PM by Gerry Murphy

I have searched a lot of local paint stores for the Martin or Dupont colors you listed and no one has them. They all claim they can reproduce them if they had a sample. My Oliver 1600 I bought from you in the fall of 05 has enough of fading to the paint (it has been repainted at least once) that I don't consider a sample from the tractor reliable. The neared AGCO dealer which you suggest as a good source is almost 150 miles away (I live the the mountains west of Denver). Can I ask a favor. Either you send me the "formula" off the top of the paint can (I notice most electronic paint mixers print out that formula these days) or alternatively, can you send me a paint swatch so I can get an exact match. My other question is what KIND of paint? Acrylic enamal? Lacquer? what do your use.

Re(1): paint

IP: 67.2.249.182 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 10:44:01 PM by Larry Harsin

Better than a swatch, why don't you just order the paint from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. He will ship it to you. Meadow Green and Clover White. This is where I get the paint I use. It is acrylic enamel. Larry

60 rebuild

IP: 12.216.134.244 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 03:34:05 PM by Brian Watson

Larry, I'm going to pull the engine from Grandpa's 60 to overhaul. The closest engine to whats in a 60 I've built is a 125 A-C motor. Is there anything I need to be aware of before I tear it apart? Common problems? I have copies of the original parts and service manuals.

Re(1): 60 rebuild

IP: 67.2.249.182 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 10:38:45 PM by Larry Harsin

It's hard to get some of the parts for it. There is a real good write-up about overhauling an Oliver 60 on pages 24 & 25, in the November/December issue of the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Assoc. magazine. You can get a copy by emailing: becky@hartparroliver.org Their website is: www.hartparroliver.org Larry

where does the hydraulic fluid go

IP: 66.140.226.166 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 10:24:37 AM by robert

I have a 1958 oliver super 55 there is a filler cap between the driver and the motor is this where the oil or hydraulic fluid go. there is a dip stick behind the driver what goes in there.

Re(1): where does the hydraulic fluid go

IP: 4.249.204.215 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 12:05:45 PM by Larry from md

NO the front hole is for transmission fluid.The rear with dipstick is the hydrolic.

Re(2): where does the hydraulic fluid go

IP: 67.2.249.182 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 10:31:44 PM by Larry Harsin

That is correct. The dipstick sitting on the seat, should be reading his Operator's Manual. He can get one from the Museum in Charles City. Email: fchs@fiai.net Larry

1944 70?

IP: 207.69.137.25 Posted on February 24, 2007 at 06:36:45 PM by TONY

I have found what I believe to be a 1944 70 row crop. it is a six cylinder. From what I have read the 70 had a six speed trans with 1 reverse, is this correct and also was told that the pto could run either direction, would this be a live pto? Thanks for any info.

Re(1): 1944 70?

IP: 67.2.249.213 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 06:52:15 AM by Larry Harsin

The six speed with one reverse is correct. The PTO runs clockwise only, and is 540 rpms. It is not live. Larry

1550 gas

IP: 24.229.146.123 Posted on February 24, 2007 at 09:01:24 AM by Codie

MY 1550 is running rough. I believe that the carborator is out of adjustment. If I turn the load needle and the idle screw all the way in how far back out would be a good place to start from to adjust it properly.

Re(1): 1550 gas

IP: 67.2.249.213 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 06:49:27 AM by Larry Harsin

Three quarters of a turn on the idle and one and a half turns on the load. Larry

1900 tranny lube improvement kit

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 23, 2007 at 10:16:35 AM by J. Ulmer

Scrolling through your tractor for sale or something else you made a reference to installing an updated transmission luberication kit. If you remember My Hanc@ck 282 scraper which uses the 1900 Industrial guts as the front end power siezed a gear on a shaft due to poor lube pressure. I've fixed it but not run it. As the dash trans lube pressure gauge does not show pressure idiling in neutral or running in gear do you think I should address this issue. Thanks Jerry

Re(1): 1900 tranny lube improvement kit

IP: 67.2.242.43 Posted on February 24, 2007 at 05:42:08 AM by Larry Harsin

I think you should make sure that pump is working. Disconnect the line where it goes into the trans case and make sure that pump is pumping oil. That updated transmission lube kit was on that tractor when I got it. If you'd call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224, he can tell you if there is a kit for your scraper and if he can get one for you. Larry

Re(2): 1900 tranny lube improvement kit

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 25, 2007 at 09:20:13 AM by J. Ulmer

Thanks Larry. The scraper IS a 1900 dropped into the Hanc@ck built frame. The 4-71 Detroit with hydraul, clutch transmission and rear end without wheels was shipped in and dropped into the frame work. It's pump is inside the transmission isn't it? Are you referring to the line as comming out to the gauge? There isn't an INGOING oil line is there? Jerry

Re(3): 1900 tranny lube improvement kit

IP: 67.2.242.34 Posted on March 24, 2007 at 05:29:21 PM by Larry Harsin

You may have a C series chassis. If it is, that pump would be on the inside. If it is a B series, the pump would be on the front of the countershaft on the outside front of the transmission case. Larry

1850 Hydra-power

IP: 207.103.47.148 Posted on February 23, 2007 at 06:06:52 AM by Steve Moyer

Larry - have 1850, with direct and under hydra power. Runs ok in direct. When slip into "under" - seems to slip or not move at all. What do you think could be the problem with those symptoms?

Re(1): 1850 Hydra-power

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on February 23, 2007 at 06:45:21 AM by Larry Harsin

You have a sprag clutch that isn't working right. You'll have to pull the unit out of the tractor and tear it down and put in a new sprag clutch and whatever else is worn. Put in new seals. Also, check the regulator valve for the lube circuit. Most of the plungers have gone through the seat, therefore, the oil doesn't go through the cooler like it should, and this makes the unit run hot. There is a replaceable seat that you can install. You can get it from your AGCO Dealer or call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

1800B diesel energy cells

IP: 74.38.188.51 Posted on February 23, 2007 at 05:08:30 AM by Jeff Oliver

Gonna put my injectors back in this weekend and adjust valves and all. After having the injectors rebuilt do I need to take the energy cells out and clean them also? Before taking it apart it wasn't missing noticeably and didn't have alot of smoke. Hpowever if you think I need to pull the cells I will.

Re(1): 1800B diesel energy cells

IP: 67.2.249.195 Posted on February 23, 2007 at 06:40:10 AM by Larry Harsin

If it was running decently before, I don't think you need to pull the cells and clean them. Use your own judgement. Larry

head

IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on February 20, 2007 at 04:32:50 AM by shad speer

hi larry will an 88 head casting# 181202 fit on a 1550 casting #186402

Re(1): head

IP: 67.2.249.211 Posted on February 20, 2007 at 07:03:56 AM by Larry Harsin

First of all, 181202 is not an 88 head, it is a 77 head. I believe it will fit a 1550. Larry

1855 pto shaft

IP: 64.56.156.211 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 08:11:51 PM by Rick Loeppky

I'm in a real pickle, trying to r&r a clutch on a 1855 and i'm stumped on how to get the pto shaft out. I've removed the plug shaft and snap ring and the o'ring thats way in there and the shaft comes out about 12 inches and stops. It feels like its hitting a snap ring but i can't see one. do I have to remove the pto assy.? please help!! thanks

Re(1): 1855 pto shaft

IP: 67.2.248.178 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 11:05:26 PM by Larry Harsin

There are 2 sets of splines that have to line up at the same time. Put the shaft all of the way back in and try turning the engine a little (by hand), or try to turn the output shaft on the PTO. You may have to try several times before the splines line up together, but it will eventually come out. Larry

Diesel missing/sputtering

IP: 208.15.27.57 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 08:43:41 AM by Todd

I have a Oliver 1800 that has a miss in it. If it was a gas model, i would suspect it was the choke on or a fouled plug, but I'm out of luck with a diesel. Possible injector problem or ?

Re(1): Diesel missing/sputtering

IP: 67.2.249.139 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 06:29:42 PM by Larry Harsin

Very possible it's an injector problem. I would loosen the injection lines, one line at a time, while the engine is running, and see if you can detect which cylinder it is. This problem could be one of several things, really. One could be a bad injector. Another thing could be a plugged energy cell. A third thing could be a dislocated push rod or a cam lobe worn off. Or, it could even be an adjusting bolt loose on a rocker arm. If you can't find the cause being any one of these, maybe it's low compression being on one of the cylinders. If you can't figure out which cylinder it is by loosening the lines, then I would reccommend removing the exhaust manifold, then start the engine and watch. The cylinder that is puffing the smoke, is the one. Larry

1850

IP: 74.39.22.44 Posted on February 18, 2007 at 10:26:22 PM by David

I was wondering about the hydraulic front wheel assist. Is it of any value? As of right now it has been unhooked for quite a while. I am trying to decide whether to remove it or to put in a swept under front end. What might the front wheel assist be worth? Thanks.

Re(1): 1850

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 06:31:45 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't know if there is any market out there for a hydraulic front wheel assist or not....You could advertise it in the Oliver Heritage magazine www.oliverinformation.com and the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine www.hartparroliver.org Sherry Schaefer, Editor of Oliver Heritage, wrote an article on those a while back, she might have an idea of value. Larry

ddh oliver crawler

IP: 69.129.145.134 Posted on February 18, 2007 at 09:24:33 PM by mark

hi, i've picked up a ddh oliver crawler that i would like to restore, but i can't find any where to tell me the year and specs on it. the serial # is 3501851 and the engine #'s are serial=S392925 and model #drxb.

Re(1): ddh oliver crawler

IP: 67.2.248.115 Posted on February 19, 2007 at 06:26:42 AM by Larry Harsin

The serial number 3501851 was built in 1953. You can get an Operator's Manual from the Floyd Co. Museum in Charles City IA. Email: fchs@fiai.net For parts and other info, contact Zimmerman Cletrac. Website: www.olivercletrac.com Larry

Oliver S55 diesel

IP: 207.69.139.141 Posted on February 18, 2007 at 02:43:16 AM by Gary

can an oliver super 55 diesel with an american bosch pump be converted to a roosa master injection pump by installing a front timming cover from an oliver770 diesel?

Re(1): Oliver S55 diesel

IP: 67.2.242.56 Posted on February 18, 2007 at 06:41:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. You'll have to have the correct timing gears, which will be the same as the 770. You may have a problem with the fuel lines from the pump to the injectors, but I think it is possible to do this. Larry

oliver hydraulic ques

IP: 74.71.253.69 Posted on February 16, 2007 at 09:14:41 PM by Adam Chapman

My Father and I farm with a couple of 55 series Olivers. An 1855 4X4 diesel and a 1655 diesel. The two tractors have completely different hydraulic systems, we've replaced the pumps on both tractors at different times. The 1855 had excellent hydraulic power up until it just quit working, we replaced the pump with a rebuit one has worked excellent ever since. The 1655 has always been a very well maintain tractor but we've always had problems with the hydraulics, before and after the new pump. We have a local mechanic who has had limited success taking apart and cleaning the pressure relief valve, we have also been told by an old Oliver man that we shouldn't be running hydraulic oil but that a 1655 should be running SAE30 non-detergent(we didn't actually try this yet). The replacement pump was new from an agco dealer. I'm wondering is the system on a 1655 just poor? I've considered mounting a front crank pump on it. Any thoughts?

Re(1): oliver hydraulic ques

IP: 67.2.248.33 Posted on February 17, 2007 at 06:43:59 AM by Larry Harsin

One source of problems on the 1655 is the relief valve. I have heard that some people have put the old style relief valve (like the 50 series had) in it's place. A local Dealer once told me, that they had a customer with constant trouble with the relief valve, and he changed back to the 50 series style relief valve and it stopped the problem. My experience with oils is: I use a 10w non-foaming oil or a 20w non-foaming oil, not the 30. I don't use heavier than the medium weight. Larry

Re(2): oliver hydraulic ques

IP: 70.105.70.117 Posted on February 28, 2007 at 11:09:41 PM by doug wenig

what type of oil are you using and how heavy 30 weight is too heavy if you use your hydraulics hard you need to use an oil that can stand up to the heat i have used white type 55 oil in my 1650 with a loader for almost 25 years and have had no trouble yet and it has a little over 13000 hours on it

S88 engine to 1550

IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on February 15, 2007 at 04:24:00 AM by shad speer

I was wondering if a super 88 engine will fit in a 1550

Re(1): S88 engine to 1550

IP: 67.2.249.155 Posted on February 15, 2007 at 06:51:10 AM by Larry Harsin

I think it can be done. You may have to redrill the front engine mount holes in the tractor frame. Larry

what year?

IP: 67.141.74.250 Posted on February 12, 2007 at 10:49:40 PM by josh g

got another serial for you 330295? also do you have the sheet metal that goes from the dash to the louver panels for a super 77? I guess they would be the rear side covers. i bought the tractor but the rear covers are from an 88 cut for L.P. any way any help will be very appreciated i love yalls website and i hope that one day my wife and i can enjoy old tractors and our lives together the way that you guys seem to. thanks again!

Re(1): what year?

IP: 67.2.242.121 Posted on February 13, 2007 at 07:03:21 AM by Larry Harsin

Assuming that this serial number is for the S77, it was built in 1955. I don't have the rear side panels. Richard Lynch makes good repro panels. 937-456-6686. Glad you enjoy the website. We sure do!! Larry

oliver 99 problem

IP: 216.228.52.170 Posted on February 11, 2007 at 00:49:41 AM by wesley torgerson

I just got a 99 diesel that was stuck. Me and a friend pulled the head off and found more problems. The back piston was broke in half at the wrist pin. We pulled the top half out and seen that the previous owner had run the tractor this was long enough that the wrist pin had cut through the sleeve and what I would assume to be the block. We can shine a light down a water port and see the light through the holes in the sleeve. I am curious as to what the best answer for this would be. Would it be fine to just run new sleeves in the block, or will I have to have the cylinders welded and rebored before the sleeves are put in. Any help on this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Re(1): oliver 99 problem

IP: 67.2.248.42 Posted on February 12, 2007 at 06:32:24 AM by Larry Harsin

This engine is a dry sleeve engine and the trouble you describe makes me feel that you will have to remove the block from the tractor and strip the block down. This block may or may not be repairable. Your machine shop can determine this. Larry

Engine Parts

IP: 64.56.156.250 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 09:58:23 PM by Ken Pierson

Did Cockshutt 1850's or any others come with Perkin's engines or were they all Wakasha's and Detroit's. Thanks for all your help. Ken

Re(1): Engine Parts

IP: 67.2.248.42 Posted on February 12, 2007 at 06:28:00 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, the Cockshutt 1850 was a Perkins. The 1900 and 1950 GM's were Detroits. The 1950T was Waukesha and most of the others were Waukesha. Larry

fuel tank heat blanket

IP: 74.140.76.174 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 06:58:07 PM by Matt Glaser

We're in the process of restoring our 66 1850 gas and wondering what we should use to replace the old heat blanket with between the gas tank and the heat shield.

Re(1): fuel tank heat blanket

IP: 67.2.248.95 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 09:42:40 PM by Larry Harsin

Just fiberglass insulation will work. Larry Re(2): fuel tank heat blanket

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on February 12, 2007 at 10:02:31 AM by j.ulmer

You might check with your heating and a/c contractor and get a piece of duct board and strip the backing off it and use the fiberglass from it as it has a lot more sizing than spun insulation and the added strength of the material is much more durable. I've used it in cabs and under hoods and it worked out lots better than the looser spun batt insulation. (I ve been an insulation contractor for over 30 years!!)

Motor Change from 1755 to 1850

IP: 64.56.156.250 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 10:38:28 AM by Ken Pierson

The 1755 is a Wakasha with a 3-speed -rewheel drive and the 1850 is a Perkins with 3-speed 1968 Yr. with front wheel assist. Will the parts from the 1755 fit into the 1850.

Re(1): Motor Change from 1755 to 1850

IP: 4.249.204.209 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 01:41:29 PM by Larry from md

NO the engine frames are differant. If you switched the frames and enough other parts you could change engines.

Re(2): Motor Change from 1755 to 1850

IP: 67.2.248.95 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 09:40:56 PM by Larry Harsin

No. What Larry from MD says is correct. Larry

Oliver 550 SPECIAL

IP: 143.115.155.56 Posted on February 9, 2007 at 10:59:36 PM by Larry

I saw a picture of a restored 550 that had the decal "Special" Was there such a designation and what made that unit a Special?

Re(1): Oliver 550 SPECIAL

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 06:41:19 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes, there was. That happened about the same time as the 1750 Special and the 1850 Special in the late 1960's. They were sort of a stripped down version for competitive pricing, such as smaller tires, maybe no power steering, maybe a steel seat pan instead of an upholstered seat, etc. Larry

oil pump

IP: 63.139.27.194 Posted on February 9, 2007 at 01:46:45 PM by dean

will an oil pump from a 1655D fit a 310D in a 1950T

Re(1): oil pump

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 06:37:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It will fit. Larry

Oliver 50

IP: 71.63.48.187 Posted on February 9, 2007 at 12:58:09 PM by Paul Wyse

There is a local auction that is listing an Oliver 50 tractor. I can find no information. Was there ever an Oliver 50 tractor?

Re(1): Oliver 50

IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on February 10, 2007 at 06:35:55 AM by Larry Harsin

Yes. It is an Industrial version of the Oliver 99 4 cylinder. They were built from 1932 - 1947. The beginning serial number is 700001. In 1946 they built 40 of them. The serial number 701266 was the beginning of 1947, so if you figure they built 40 per year, there were approx. 1300 of them built. My book doesn't give the last serial number. Larry

1555 Cockshutt

IP: 205.200.57.187 Posted on February 7, 2007 at 08:31:24 PM by Wes Hamm

1555 gas.are governors ajustable?problem is when getting under load, pushing snow at half throtle or so,engine will stall.however it is -30 C.here for temp should a guy richin the mixture?thanks for your help.

Re(1): 1555 Cockshutt

IP: 67.2.248.207 Posted on February 8, 2007 at 07:04:16 AM by Larry Harsin

I don't think I would adjust the governor. I would open the load needle 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I would also cover the radiator. Larry

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