"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" January, 2004 Archives
77rc
IP: 131.151.65.159 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 08:48:33 PM by Gary Abbott
Hi Larry, I'm still trying to determine the approximate year of my 77rc, I found where there was a tag at one time on the side of the gearcase just below the shifter, there is a casting# below which reads m500d. My cousin bought it new in 53,he did say it was a demo. Can you tell me approximately when it was built. Thanks for the help.
Re(1): 77rc
IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on February 3, 2004 at 01:09:05 AM by Larry Harsin
Look on the bottom of the transmission housing in the area of the front drain plug. There should be a casting date there. There should also be a casting date behind the generator on the engine block. If you want to know when the engine was actually assembled, there will be a date stamped into the cylinder head where the thermostat housing bolts onto it. You will have to remove the thermostat housing to read it. Larry
Re(1): 77rc
IP: 131.151.84.189 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 10:08:32 AM by Gary Abbott
Hi Larry, I wasn't able to find any of the numbers in the locations you specified, but at the rear of the head on top by the valve cover i found a casting #41651. When in production did they move the serial tag to the dash? Thanks Gary
Re(2): 77rc
IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 08:30:51 PM by Larry Harsin
That could be April 16 1951. This could be the date of the casting. They would have let it cure some before machining it, but that year would probably fit your tractor. I think they moved the serial number tag in early 1952. Larry
1855 sucking air in hydraulic system
IP: 67.0.93.42 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 05:31:21 PM by Howard Clark
My 1855 is sucking air into the hydraulic system somewhere. I am hoping for suggestions on where to look for the problem, i.e. most likely places to start.
Re(1): 1855 sucking air in hydraulic system
IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on February 3, 2004 at 01:05:30 AM by Larry Harsin
The first thing I would do is change the hydraulic filter and check all of the hose clamps on the inlet side and make sure they are tight. If the tractor has the external pump on the front of the engine, check if the shaft is loose in the pump in it. On those lines that goes to the oil cooler, make sure there are no loose hose clamps on them. Larry
Oliver 550
IP: 66.222.208.242 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 11:50:10 AM by Jason
I was clearing some snow with my Oliver 550 Diesel this weekend and all of a sudden it does not seem to want to move anymore. I can shift it into all gears, it tries to move about an inch but that is all. Otherwise it seems to run fine. I did not notice any strange noises, it just does not want to move anymore. Transmission ? what could it be?
Re(1): Oliver 550
IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on February 3, 2004 at 01:02:42 AM by Larry Harsin
You could have a siezed brake. That's the 1st. thing I would check. I suppose something could have broken in the shifting mechanism and you could have it in 2 gears at the same time. If it was low on transmission grease, you could have had a gear sieze up on a shaft or something like that. Larry
880 industrial
IP: 24.151.99.13 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 06:29:42 AM by Al Clapp
Larry Is there a seperate service manual for the 880 industrial or should I just purchase one for the 880 AG? Are there any other sources than E-Bay?
Re(1): 880 industrial
IP: 67.2.248.56 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 08:48:20 AM by Larry Harsin
The Oliver Service Manual for the 880 will be the same. You can get a Manual for anything Oliver ever made from the Museum in Charles City IA. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry
1950-T
IP: 24.54.19.27 Posted on February 1, 2004 at 09:14:26 PM by swamp yankee
I have a 1968 1950-T w/wakeshau 310 diesel. The Turbo is worn out, both impellars are junk. Best advice on new or rebuilt and where to go? Thanks in advance
Re(1): 1950-T
IP: 67.2.248.56 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 08:45:01 AM by Larry Harsin
Call Central Fuel Injection at 712-362-4200. I think they have them. Or Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry
Re(2): 1950-T
IP: 24.54.19.27 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 05:06:40 PM by swamp yankee
Thanks Larry !!
Oliver 1900 intake boots
IP: 216.126.128.52 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 05:31:08 AM by Jeff
Hi, I am looking for some new rubber intake boots for an Oliver 1900 with the 4-53 Detroit in it. They connect the air cleaners to the supercharger. Agco wants $70 each for them and that's too much. Does anyone know where I can find them cheaper? Thanks, Jeff.
Re(1): Oliver 1900 intake boots
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 31, 2004 at 08:12:58 AM by j ulmer
Jeff, I've got a lot of"antique" machines and have had to scrounge stuff formachines which are no longer serviced by anyone!!I have had good luck even on curved stuff by going to a truck/auto supply place which has a lot of large diameter inventory hanging on a back wall and buying something that I can cut out a part and mix and connect to get there. An Auto Zone won't cut it but Joe's truck parts and taxidermy just might. Good luck! Jerry
Re(2): Oliver 1900 intake boots
IP: 67.2.248.76 Posted on February 3, 2004 at 00:57:22 AM by Larry Harsin
I checked and I don't have these. The only person I can think of that might have them is Ollie Schaefer. Email: olliesch@papadocs.com Larry
88 rear end ratios
IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 10:25:13 PM by Neil Bornitz
Is there any way to find what gear ratio I have without checking ring and pinion numbers? I would like to find a lower ratio than I have now.
Re(1): 88 rear end ratios
IP: 209.173.42.46 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 00:08:40 AM by Jeff
I am not sure exactly what the ratios are but a fast way to tell if you have a low gear or not is to look at the bull gear cover under theseat. If it is low then you have a standard ,if it looks to be tall then you have a extra low gear that changes the ratios in 1st and third. Also look on the serial number if yours has one ( one of my 88's doesn't) If at the end of the number there is this c88c then you have the low gear.
Re(2): 88 rear end ratios
IP: 209.50.10.135 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 01:12:51 AM by B A Star
Jeff is partially correct, the C-88-C powertrain was used through S/N 125482. After that serial number, a C-88-K was used, that had a slower speed 1st and 3rd as compared to the earlier tractors. At rated RPM W/13.6-38 tires in 1st gear the "C" was 2.44 MPH & the "K" was 1.88 MPH.
Re(3): 88 rear end ratios
IP: 161.45.215.189 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 12:24:41 PM by Cody Adgent
Some of the 88's had the 9 tooth pinion in them with the majority having the 10 or 11 tooth. the only true way to know is pull the top nd check it out.
Oliver 77 more power
IP: 63.190.97.189 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 03:11:34 PM by old
Hi Larry I have a couple question for you again I noticed in a catalog that there are 2 carbs listed for 77 a TSX363 and a TSX374 how are they differant and can they be used on any of the 77? and also I'm thinking about putting in a over bore sleeve kit that will increase bore to 3-5/8 how much more HP might I get, I'm trying to get as close to 50 HP as I can what do you think?? Thanks again for your info
Re(1): Oliver 77 more power
IP: 67.2.249.164 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 07:44:45 PM by Larry Harsin
I think if you want to go to that big bore, you had better get a bigger carb from a S77. The S77 uses a TSX374. I would also reccommend that you get a S77 intake manifold. With all of this, you might get 45 hp. You might also have to go to a S77 head and then you might get 50 hp. Larry
C44 transmission
IP: 209.173.42.55 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 11:56:04 PM by Jeff
My 1800 LPG has the last three digits in ht serial number as 844. I was told this meant it has a C44 transmission in it. Is this the normal one or a lower geared one than normal. H have 2 88's with the low gear in them which is obvious byy the hump on the floorboard but this one doesn't have that. I have seen the C44 discused on some foruem but I just can't find them or remember what was said about it. Also I should have you a money order on the way for the tilt steering lock parts Friday.
Re(1): C44 transmission
IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 07:43:43 AM by Larry Harsin
I'm not well versed on the numbering system for the transmissions. Perhaps Duane Starr can answer this for you. Larry
Re(4): C44 transmission
IP: 67.2.248.46 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 00:36:14 AM by Duane Starr
"C-44" is a powertrain code that tells us what transmission, ring gear and pinion was installed at the factory. The "C" section in the shop manuals, parts book and price book was always the powertrain. My listing does not show a "C-44". Perhaps he read it incorrectly, or it does not show up on my list. This number is the last three digits in the serial number 1955 and later. The letter "C" is replaced by the model. As an example, if this tractor was a super 66 the number would be 644, a Super 77 744 and etc. 7th digit is always the model number through the 1600, 1800 & 1900. It changed after that. If the powertrain code was only one digit after the "C", a 0 was added. As an example, my 660 has a "C-6" powertrain, thus the last three digits are 606. Hope this answers your question. Duane
oliver family tree
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 11:16:44 PM by j ulmer
Hi Larry, Can you point me toward a book, catalogue, ect. which would help me sort out the relationship chronologically and power-wise between the later series tractors? (i.e.1800,1850,1750,1950, 2255, ect.) There's got to be someplace a slow learner like me can find a fudge sheet. I know pretty well JD, Case, & IH because I've been around them since the mid-fifties, but there weren't many Olivers here in the Texas Panhandle after the 4010JD and 706/806 IH stuff showed up. Thanks ju
Re(1): oliver family tree
IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 07:38:35 AM by Larry Harsin
There is a book by C.H. Wendel entitled, "Oliver Hart-Parr". It is hard cover about 1" or so thick and it is available at the Museum in Charles City IA. It costs approx. $40. It is like an encyclopedia of Oliver. You can get a copy by emailing Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net. Larry
Re(2): oliver family tree
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 31, 2004 at 07:57:56 AM by j ulmer
Thenks for the guidance! They were great when I ordered parts books and manuals from them before Christmas. I had seen reference in your archives for operator, service and parts books, but not seen mention of this reference book. re: scraper bull gears--Jim at Visioneering said he acquired a lot of Oliver driveline parts in the Clark obselete inventory he acquired. Let me know If you need me to check part #'s vs his inventory. Jerry
just wanted to say thanks
IP: 64.251.142.103 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 09:50:06 PM by Luther
Larry, I got my 880 running with the roosa-master pump - it runs great! Fixed the main seal problem also by switching the front cover to the 1600 cover. I haven't been able to get through for a few weeks maybe longer. I'll probably have some more questions on hydraulics on this fine tractor in the future. Really like the way it's running and thanks again!
Re(1): just wanted to say thanks
IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on January 29, 2004 at 07:31:44 AM by Larry Harsin
Good for you! Glad we could help. Larry
1650 Diesel
IP: 12.30.157.58 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:37:27 PM by Randy
Larry, How fast should the motor crank when starting? I only get about 150 RPM. I have heard anywhere between 150 and 400. Would having the starter rebuilt get me to 400 RPM ? I have new batteries in it, and it stills starts hard when cold. (I have it plugged in also.)
Re(1): 1650 Diesel
IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:53:48 PM by Larry Harsin
To achieve top cranking speed, the starter has to be A number 1. The battery cables have to be A number 1, also. The 1650 is not an easy starting engine. They are slower after they get a little worn. One thing I would consider doing, is put an ether start kit on it. The price is very reasonable and if used properly, works excellent. You can get the ether start kit from T.H.E. Co. 800-634-4885. Larry
Re(1): 1650 Diesel
IP: 67.28.61.79 Posted on February 1, 2004 at 03:26:52 PM by Ron Hansen
Randy, I had a 1650 that also was very hard to start ever since it was new. When we overhauled it, the mechanic updated the specs on the injectors to to the specs used on a model 1655. I think it had something to do with the positioning of the injector. It made that tractor very easy to start at almost any temperature. It seemed to me that the engine was a bit louder after that but very easy to start. Maybe Larry knows if there is a sevice bulletin or other info on this.
Re(2): 1650 Diesel
IP: 12.30.157.110 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 11:13:26 AM by Randy
Ron, was yours the older style 1650 with the indirect injection? Do you have energy cells on yours? I was just curious if they can do that with the older style injectors. Thanks, Randy
Re(3): 1650 Diesel
IP: 67.31.156.2 Posted on February 2, 2004 at 04:25:46 PM by Ron Hansen
I don't know what style the injectors were. We no longer own the tractor. All I can tell you is that it was a 1969 1650.
Re(4): 1650 Diesel
IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 08:56:57 PM by Larry Harsin
That positioning of the injector was done on the newer style engine of the 1650 (the later style). Larry
Oliver 550 ID
IP: 64.136.26.227 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 09:29:01 AM by r perigeaux
I just purchased an gas Oliver 550. On the left side of the tractor is an ID plate with the number 45-0033 on top and the number 121 470-519 on the bottom. Could you tell me when the tractor was manufactured and what the horsepower ratings are for the PTO and drawbar.
Re(1): Oliver 550 ID
IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:49:04 PM by Larry Harsin
Your serial number is 121 470. It was built in 1962. The PTO hp is 39.2. The drawbar hp is slightly less, approx. 37. Larry
1600, A or B?
IP: 209.105.32.128 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:28:42 AM by Wide Open
Larry, was just wondering how you tell the difference between an 1600 A and a 1600 B? Mine is serial # 131 861. This makes it an A, right?
Re(1): 1600, A or B?
IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:46:29 PM by Larry Harsin
That is correct, it is a 1963. It would be considered a first series or an "A". The "A" gas has an air cleaner identical to an 880 gas. The "B" series has a different design on the thermostat housing and cylinder head. There are just some little refinements otherwise around the tractor. Larry
Re(2): 1600, A or B?
IP: 209.50.10.135 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 01:01:26 AM by B A Star
Larry is correct, inaddidtion the air cleaner they have a larger intake manifold, carb is larger, and they were factory equipped with 3 5/8" pistons in place of the 3 1/2". There was a factory program to install the larger pistons in the early tractors.
Re(3): 1600, A or B?
IP: 209.105.32.71 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 09:41:18 AM by Wide Open
I have a diesel model, were there any differences on them?
Re(4): 1600, A or B?
IP: 67.2.249.250 Posted on February 4, 2004 at 09:03:37 PM by Larry Harsin
As far as I know, the diesel engines in all of the 1600 were the same. Larry
three point plow
IP: 148.64.156.242 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:15:11 AM by Cwolfe
So after much research, I have diecide to get a three bottom plow for my 165o to tackle the clay soil I have here. I have found a very nice three point three bottom Oliver plow. What are your feelings about 3 point plows? Are they easy to set up? What is the most likely model number for an Oliver 3 point 3 bottom plow that has trip springs? Thanks.
Re(1): three point plow
IP: 67.2.249.5 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 08:42:35 PM by Larry Harsin
I think the 3 pt. mounted plow would be an excellent choice for your tractor. In our area, they are hard to find. There was a 3240, a 3241 and a 3242. They were convertible style and could be set up for 2 or 3 bottoms. They also had adjustable cutting width for 12, 14 or 16 inch. Another option was ridgid or spring trip beams. These are just a few of the many models of plows that Oliver produced. I would reccommend that if you like the plow, that you try to get it bought. Oliver plows are getting more and more in demand. Larry
orchard 66 crank pulley
IP: 206.172.238.169 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 00:27:29 AM by Jason Foreman
Hi, my name is jay and I have a very important question for you. The crank pulley on my orchard 66 4cyl gas motor is wobbling and I think that it needs to have the steel rivets in it replaced and I have absolutely no idea how to remove the pulley so I can replace the rivets and have the pulley tightened, so my main question is how do I remove and tighten the crank pulley. I much appreciate you reading this and getting back to me. Thanks so much Jay
Re(1): orchard 66 crank pulley
IP: 67.2.249.102 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 01:29:05 AM by Larry Harsin
You'll have to remove the radiator to get at it. The pulley hub has 2 threaded holes so that you can us a puller to get it off. There is a threaded cap screw that holds the pulley on - it has an 1 1/8 nut with a crank jaw built into it. Use a wrench this size or this size of deep socket to take this off. Larry
Oliver seriel No.
IP: 68.16.41.165 Posted on January 27, 2004 at 09:01:55 PM by Frank Godfrey
When I bought my tractor I was told it was a 1964 Oliver 550. I have been trying to confirm this and now I am starting to have doubts about both the year and the model. The No. on my tractor is 190 846 019. Can anyone tell me the year and the model?
Re(1): Oliver seriel No.
IP: 67.2.249.102 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 01:25:06 AM by Larry Harsin
It is a 1967 550. Your serial no. is 190 846. The last 3 numbers are a transmission code. Larry
Re(2): Oliver seriel No.
IP: 68.16.40.134 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 05:39:03 AM by Frank Godfrey
Thanks Larry.
OLIVER 1250
IP: 68.65.12.209 Posted on January 27, 2004 at 02:03:58 PM by MIKE
CAN I ADD POWER STEERING TO MY OILVER 1250? IS THERE A KIT AVAILABLE? I HAVE A LOADER ON IT AND IT CAN BE HARD TO STEER. MIKE
Re(1): OLIVER 1250
IP: 67.2.249.102 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 01:22:45 AM by Larry Harsin
There was a power steering available for those tractors. I would reccommend that you try to find one from a salvage yard. Try Worthington Ag Parts 800-533-5304 or Farmersville Equip 717-354-2150 or Harold Wolfe 423-581-5557. Larry
1655 water heater
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 10:10:30 AM by karl
Larry, I had a tank heater installed on my 1655 oliver. I prefer to leave it plugged into electric all the time. Lately I noticed that the top of the radiator is warm but not the engine block. Does the engine need to be cold before the tank heater is turned on to make it warm correctly? Or did they install the tank heater incorrectly? The cold return line comes from the block near the back of the engine. The hot line is plumbed into the thermostat? housing. I see there are two plugs than can be used in that area. They used the higher one. Should they have used the lower one? Also, It has a factory? coolant heater located on/near the lower radiator hose. They told me it worked but I don't feelany warmth. Would a proper factory heater be adequate or is the tank heater better? Can I run both...It gets pretty cold in North Dakota. Again, thank you for sponsoring this internet site.
Re(1): 1655 water heater
IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 11:59:50 PM by Larry Harsin
You can use the factory heaater and the tank heater. Try using the lower plug on the thermostat housing. The factory heater should be adequate, but it won't hurt to use them both. Larry
Re(2): 1655 water heater
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on January 27, 2004 at 03:04:08 PM by karl
Larry, I don't think the factory heater is working. Where can I get a replacement? Thanks.
Re(3): 1655 water heater
IP: 67.2.249.102 Posted on January 28, 2004 at 01:18:38 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with your local AGCO Dealer. If you don't have one, check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Or Rick's Agri Parts, Website: www.ricksagriparts.com. Larry
3 point hydraulic
IP: 169.207.216.187 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 09:54:21 AM by william disher
Hi Larry, 3 point on oliver 1650 bounces while under load, with low rpm, the 3 point lowers slowly, universal trans-draulic oil, compatible to Oliver type 55 is being used. Would a heavy oil cure this or is there a deeper problem. thanks.
Re(1): 3 point hydraulic
IP: 67.2.249.189 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 11:56:04 PM by Larry Harsin
There is another problem. There is leakage somewhere. As long as it doesn't affect the operation too adversly, I wouldn't tear into it. If it needs to be fixed, there has been some discussion on leaky hydraulics in recent questions. Check through some of these. Larry
Cockshutt Tractor Paint
IP: 142.3.14.151 Posted on January 25, 2004 at 05:18:11 PM by A Young
My dad is currently doing the body work on a Cockshott model "80" for a local tractor collector and restorer. My question is: what is the paint codes for the red and yellow on these tractors? Any input would be greatly appreciated, and thank you for a site where one can ask these sort of questions and not get told, "What are you talking about"
Re(1): Cockshutt Tractor Paint IP: 67.2.249.56 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 00:55:47 AM by Larry Harsin
Cockshutt red is Sherwin Williams JK8522 or Acme 3-C181684. ####shutt yellow is Sherwin Williams JK6475 or a mixture of Martin Senour - 4 parts of 99L-8645 & 1 part 99L-9800. Larry
51 RC 88 diesel Liftpump & injector lines
IP: 172.144.160.159 Posted on January 25, 2004 at 03:30:44 PM by Alan Jones
Larry, Can you tell me where I can find a new lift pump for my tractor mine is leaking around the diaphram I tried to tighten the screws but i think some are stripped out. Is there a fix for this or am I going to have to replace it. Also I am replacing the drip lines on the injectors, how should these be configured mine run from the left side of the injector to the right side of the next injector, Is this correct or does it matter. Thank You for your help.
Re(1): 51 RC 88 diesel Liftpump & injector lines
IP: 67.2.249.56 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 00:51:22 AM by Larry Harsin
For a lift pump or info about one, call Faust Bros. at Pierz, MN 320-468-6051 Email: jfaust@brainerd.net. The drip lines run like you say yours do. Larry
1850 gas
IP: 67.37.88.138 Posted on January 24, 2004 at 10:43:37 PM by tom
larry, I'm looking at an 1850 gas tractor. original tractor with 2500 hours. $4000. I've had JD and AC before but not an Oliver. Would appreciate any advice on what to look for. thanks, tom
Re(1): 1850 gas
IP: 67.2.249.56 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 00:46:16 AM by Larry Harsin
If it runs good and is complete (all the tin etc.) and has good tires and good sheetmetal, $4000 should be in the ball park. Larry
wide front 88
IP: 205.181.102.119 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 02:42:03 PM by howard
good afternoon larry I have A 1949 wide front 88 with the low creper gear .my ? is the wide front is broken up real bad did they make a hevey and a light one the won i have is real hevey and the center pin is diferent then any others wons i have found to replace this won with.I do know the extra steel and 100 lbs of nickal rod has been coped on but with all of that it still looks diferent then what are sutable oliver replacments or am i looking at wide froints from say A 77 or 66 and thats why they are not as heavy any light you could put on this whould help restore to original thanks Howard
Re(1): wide front 88
IP: 67.2.248.117 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 08:56:17 PM by Larry Harsin
I think what you have is one of the early styles. The center member was cast, and they broke. When they changed the design, they eliminated the cast portion and put in a steel tube which made them stronger. If your front end is not repairable, I would probably put on a newer style wide front. Larry
1650 choke; backfire
IP: 216.70.45.1 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 03:12:11 AM by Cwolfe
My 1650 has a choke cable. I do not know whether choke mechanism was originally cable or rod. Problem is choke cable tends to drift out so that the choke turn on itself after I push it in. Was the original choke a cable or rod? Second problem is tractor tends to backfire about 3 seconds after I turn it off. Remedy? Third question. Will 165o likely be able to pull 4 bottom 16 plow (oliver semimount) If so and plow is in good condition, what would be a fair price for a Oliver 4-16 semimount? Soil type northern minnesota clay mix.
Re(1): 1650 choke; backfire
IP: 67.2.249.148 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 08:25:28 AM by Larry Harsin
It was originally a choke cable. You may need to put a spring at the choke lever to help keep the choke in the off position. On the backfire problem, let the tractor run at slow speed idle for about 30 seconds. Also, try to achieve a low speed idle of approx. 500 rpm before shutting it off. This should help. That tractor/plow was the most common combination in our area of NW Iowa. The 1650 is a full 4 plow tractor. I'm not sure how N MN clay mix pulls, but our soil here is a little tougher than average. Price varies as to locallity. Here a 4-16 semimount plow can be bought for $300 - $500. Larry
Super 88 hyd. leak
IP: 216.19.8.110 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 10:49:29 PM by Jim
I have a Super 88 row crop diesel and I have a problem with the hydra-lectric reservoir leaking oil into the transmission. Can I still use the tractor for other work as long as I"m not using the hydraulics, till I have a chance to fix the leak?
Re(1): Super 88 hyd. leak
IP: 67.2.249.148 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 08:16:42 AM by Larry Harsin
You can keep using it as long as you keep oil in the hydra-lectric unit. The pump runs all the time the engine is running and you don't want it to run out of oil. It must have oil in it. Larry
Oliver Garden tractor
IP: 64.146.51.98 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 01:55:50 PM by Valerie Hieser
I have been looking for an oliver garden tractor of any model and condition. Do you have one or know of someone who can help? Thanks for your time and I really enjoy your site.
Re(1): Oliver Garden tractor
IP: 67.2.249.148 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 08:13:04 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of one for sale. Those little tractors are VERY desirable and most people that have them don't want to sell them. Just watch for collections that might be selling. Or you could place an ad in the Hart Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine asking for one. Go to www.hartparroliver.org to find out where to place the ad. They have just changed editors and I don't have the new address. Larry
oil weight
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 10:58:30 AM by karl
Larry, What weight of oil can I use in a 1655 diesel? I am dealing with light loader use in cold weather. The manual suggests 20W-20 for cold weather. My local stores don't seem to have that in stock. I put in Shell 15W40 and at -10 F I bet the feeling it's a little too thick. What alternatives can I use?
Re(1): oil weight
IP: 67.2.249.148 Posted on January 23, 2004 at 08:06:21 AM by Larry Harsin
I reccommend 10w-30. I feel the same way that 0 degrees is about as cold as I want to go with 15w-40. Another thought, for in the neighborhood of $30, you can buy a magnetic heater that you can stick onto the oil pan to warm the oil when it is extra cold. They are very effective. That way you could stay with the 15w-40 oil. Larry
Parts
IP: 63.224.61.101 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 00:53:11 AM by Bill Gusie
Acquired an OC3 crawler, manual ordered but can't wait! Is the adjustment for the generator on the water pump pully? It's frozen, are replacements available? Need radiator, can have current one rebuilt for about $300. Any other options out there? Thanks for your replies, Bill
Re(1): Parts
IP: 67.2.248.146 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 02:03:35 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Landis Zimmerman. He is a Cletrac expert and has a parts and service for them. His phone is: 717-738-2573 his email: zoc@att.net. Larry
Re(2): Parts
IP: 63.224.61.101 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 08:51:10 PM by Bill Guise
Thanks Larry, I called him today and we are working on my parts order. Thanks for your response, Bill
tractors
IP: 66.24.22.106 Posted on January 21, 2004 at 12:58:39 PM by Ron
I have an Oliver 55 Super Orchard Tractor, I put a V-8 with an automatic into it, and I am having a hard time keeping the chain and sprockets with the tightener together. Is there anyone that has re-altered one of these to make it really work, we use this tractor for plowing snow and hauling firewood. I would like to get a drive shaft between the transmission and the tractor's transmission, if you could help us would be greatly appreciated.
tractors
IP: 67.2.248.146 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 02:00:29 AM by Larry Harsin
I have never done this and I can't help you. Larry
(1650 shifting)
IP: 216.185.73.9 Posted on January 21, 2004 at 07:44:58 AM by Paul
Hi Larry - Sorry to bother you, but I have a problem with my 1650. I have a hard time shifting it out of gear if I come to a complete stop before shifting gears- between 2nd and R1 are the worst, and it doesn't seem to matter if I have the brakes on or the hydra power on/off. Is this common for 1650s, or is it just some adjustment. I don't think that its the clutch thats the problem b/c it doesn't grind at all going into gear. If you could shed any light on this it would be great. Thanks, Paul
Re(1): (1650 shifting)
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 00:52:42 AM by j.ulmer Paul, Scroll down 4 topics to read Jason's 1800 shift problem. They are all designed the same and at rest the big solid gears have friction from the static loading through the driveline. Parking on the level helps and sometimes I will ease out on the clutch a little and as the unit rocks back there isn't the torque load giving so much friction. You might ask larry about a AP GL-5 oil. They are designed for modern car third members (well not so modern because they have rear wheel drive) which had the pinion shaft down lower on the ring gears (to lower the floor hump for the drive shaft) and they "screwed" through the ring gear rather then at a right angle and required a slipping through the slots as opposed to a straight rotation through a square cut gear. GL-5 may not be high pressure enough to keep from galding the tooth surfaces.
Re(2): (1650 shifting)
IP: 67.2.248.146 Posted on January 22, 2004 at 01:38:28 AM by Larry Harsin
Read the previous post as reccommended. That is a common occurance with all of the tractors with hydra-power drive. The GL-5 is a good lubricant to use in the transmission and differential. Larry
Re(3): (1650 shifting)
IP: 209.50.4.236 Posted on January 26, 2004 at 00:55:58 AM by B A Star
Larry: I assume that you are going to the Oliver cornbelt Collectors winter meeting in Ames next Saturday. I will be there, plan to talk to me about this concern (hopping guard) on the shifting. I will explain why it happens and talk about another problem in this area.
880 industrial
IP: 24.151.33.247 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:21:55 PM by Al Clapp
I am trying to determine what the correct seat is for a 58 Oliver 880 Industrial with a Ware Hydro Trencher Backhoe. All that remains is a flat plate with coil springs.
Re(1): 880 industrial
IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 20, 2004 at 00:38:08 AM by Larry Harsin
I think it was just a spring cushion on that flat plate. I'll check the parts book in the morning and see what it says. Larry
Re(2): 880 industrial
IP: 67.2.248.149 Posted on January 20, 2004 at 08:19:44 AM by Larry Harsin
This is what the parts book says that it had. Larry
880 Power Steering pump
IP: 209.103.234.24 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 08:38:52 PM by Jason S.
We have a 880 row crop, with the power steering pump attached to the back of the generator. The problem is that the power steering fluid is getting airated, and pushes out of the filler neck when the tractor is running. There are no leaks that I can see, and the system still works when there is fluid in it. I'm assuming that the pump is sucking air in from some place, but the only place that I can think of would be the front seal of the pump. Any ideas? Thanks!
Re(1): 880 Power Steering pump
IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 20, 2004 at 00:33:54 AM by Larry Harsin
You may be right. I don't know if you can get a seal for it. Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl for a seal. 800-320-6224. But before you try to replace the seal, remove the 2 little cap screws that hold the reservoir on and remove it. You'll find a filter on the pump. Remove that filter and wash it in solvent. That might be all that is causing the problem. Larry
1800 hard to shift
IP: 216.106.56.91 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 11:44:01 PM by Jason Epperson
Larry I have another question about my 1800 c. When I am driving the tractor and and want to change gears from a complete stop, it is always hard to get it out of gear. When I do get it out of gear it rolls a little bit and then goes right into the next gear. I put a new pressure plate, drive disc, throw out bearing and had the flywheel surfaced when I overhauled the engine. It is no big deal but I was just wondering if you had any thoughts. Thank you
Re(1): 1800 hard to shift
IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:17:29 AM by Larry Harsin
That's the nature of your tractor. When it does this, pull the hydra-power into the low range. That should help. Like when you are stopped. Also, try to get it out of gear before you stop moving. Larry
Re(2): 1800 hard to shift
IP: 216.106.56.53 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 10:49:35 AM by Jason Epperson
Thanks Larry. I have been trying to get it out gear before it completely stops and it is alot easier to shift.
Re(3): 1800 hard to shift
IP: 67.2.249.225 Posted on January 20, 2004 at 00:30:27 AM by Larry Harsin
That's just the way they are. Larry
Super 88 Hyd. Oil Recommendations
IP: 216.19.8.41 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 09:53:50 PM by Jim Radley
I have one more question on my Oliver Super 88. The owners manual says to use 10W engine oil in the hydraulic system. 10W engine oil seems hard to find in this part of the country, can we use a good grade of standard hydraulic oil instead as I'm told that it is the same as a 10W oil?
Re(1): Super 88 Hyd. Oil Recommendations IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:14:20 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, that is fine. Larry
Transmission Oil Recommendation
IP: 216.19.8.41 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 09:44:40 PM by Jim Radley
I recently bought my first Oliver tractor, A Row Crop Super 88 Diesel. The operators manual says to use SAE 140 oil in the transmission for temperatures above 32 degrees. Is this also what you recommend or can we get by with using SAE 90 all year long?
Re(1): Transmission Oil Recommendation
IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:13:12 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd use 80 - 90 or straight 90 all year long. Larry
Super 88 Hyd. Problem
IP: 216.19.8.41 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 09:38:21 PM by Jim Radley
I recently purchased an Oliver Super 88 Row Crop Diesel. This is my first Oliver tractor. I bought an operators manual and when I went to initially service it and check all the fluid levels, I found that there was no oil showing on the dipstick in the Hydra-Lectric reservoir. I filled the reservoir to the proper level with oil and ran the tractor for a couple hours, and worked the hydraulics a little and after I shut the tractor down, I checked the hydra-lectric oil level again and it again showed no oil on the stick. Could this oil be leaking into the trans & differential? If so, how big of a job is it to fix the problem and where would you recommend I go to get the parts?
Re(1): Super 88 Hyd. Problem
IP: 216.166.192.94 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 10:54:43 PM by Jim T
Jim, either the seals are bad or the pump center plate is cracked. Seals and bearings can be had from AGCO for about $80. Center plate is being reproduced for about $210. This is not a big job. Breifly, pull the PTO shaft, remove the hoses from the unit and then remove the unit. Pump is underneath unit. BEFORE taking the pump apart, notice how the hollow shaft with the splines is in the pump. They are not centered in the pump and can only be put back in the same way or the PTO shaft will not go back in. Good luck. Jim Thurnau
Re(2): Super 88 Hyd. Problem
IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:11:36 AM by Larry Harsin
This is all correct. If you don't have a local AGCO dealer, you can call Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry
1650 + starting tips
IP: 216.185.73.9 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 05:04:08 PM by Paul
Hi Larry, I have a 1650 Oliver that had a complete rebuild 1000 hrs ago. It seems to be having alot of trouble starting in this cold weather, even though I have the block heater plugged in for a couple hours. I just put new batteries in it, and I put diesel fuel conditioner, + injector cleaner, and it seems to help a bit, but not alot. If you had any tips on how to start/maintain this new tractor, I would appreciate it alot- Its my first Oliver. Thanks, Paul
Re(1): 1650 + starting tips
IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 05:15:55 PM by Larry Harsin
Try leaving it plugged in for an hour longer. If a tractor is setting outside and there is any wind at all, it takes longer than 2 hrs. I also would reccommend that you pull the starter and take it to a good repair shop and have it checked over. In cold weather, the starter has to be in top notch condition. Larry
Re(2): 1650 + starting tips
IP: 216.185.73.9 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 05:37:24 PM by Paul
Thanks for the speedy response Larry- Generally I have to leave the heater plugged in for 8-10 hrs before it'll start- I'm just worried about "cooking" my sealing rings, or isn't there any truth in that? Thanks, paul
Re(3): 1650 + starting tips
IP: 67.2.248.130 Posted on January 19, 2004 at 09:08:37 AM by Larry Harsin
You don't have to worry about that, it won't happen. Larry
550 clutch sticking
IP: 198.81.26.10 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 00:35:41 AM by Scott
Hi Larry, Just discovered your site and need help. The clutch will sometime stick when it gets heated up. I have greased the one fitting and removed the plate under the tractor to see if I could get to the splines and clean or lube. Could not see anything. Any ideas? Also looking for a tach cable, I think the tach still works but not sure. Thanks for your time and help....
Re(1): 550 clutch sticking
IP: 67.2.248.110 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 05:12:18 PM by Larry Harsin
Try taking some free travel out of the clutch so that the pressure plate will open further. If that does not help, you are going to have to split the tractor and remove the pressure plate and disk and see what is wrong. I would reccommend that you get an Operator's Manual and a Service Manual for your tractor from Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net Larry
starter trouble
IP: 208.11.3.87 Posted on January 17, 2004 at 09:23:14 PM by ron
within 10 years I have had to replace 2 starter drive springs. Sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter driver hits hard. I have also had to replace the nut on the end of the starter drive 2 times. Any idea what could be wrong??
Re(1): starter trouble
IP: 67.2.248.177 Posted on January 17, 2004 at 10:48:33 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know what could be the problem. Larry
Re(1): starter trouble
IP: 165.247.164.19 Posted on January 21, 2004 at 11:09:52 AM by Mike B
Ron, I don't want to state the obvious, but are you sure that you have the correct starter installed? I can provide the part number if needed. Alternatively, the ring gear on the flywheel may be damaged with teeth chipped or missing or it may be warped and that may somehow be stressing the drive mechanism. Remove the inspection plate below and spin the flywheel through a rotation. Maybe you'll find it. FYI - there is a Super 55 flywheel for sale on ebay right now. Good luck.
3 point on 1650
IP: 169.207.218.98 Posted on January 16, 2004 at 04:59:58 PM by william disher
3 point hic-cups with weight on it,lowers slowly when rpm's are down, would heavier fluid help? currently using trans-dralic universal type.
Re(1): 3 point on 1650
IP: 67.2.242.14 Posted on January 16, 2004 at 10:11:40 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't think heavier fluid will help. I think I would do some checking in the servo valve. It might be a ball stuck back in the seat of the cap in the top of the servo valve. Otherwise, your trouble may be worn rings on the piston that lifts the arms. Larry
Re(1): 3 point on 1650
IP: 67.31.155.100 Posted on January 18, 2004 at 09:21:31 PM by ronhansen
I had a 1650 some years ago that did the same thing. It turned out to be a hairline crack in a hydraulic fitting inside the hydraulic housing, I think. A local mechanic repaired it and that's what he told me it was.
550 serial no.
IP: 208.25.249.52 Posted on January 15, 2004 at 04:32:17 PM by Ron
Can anyone tell me what model my tractor is?? 45-0592=== 121-593-519
Re(1): 550 serial no.
IP: 207.144.175.117 Posted on January 15, 2004 at 10:52:45 PM by J. Mash
Ron my records indicate you have a 1962 model
Re(2): 550 serial no.
IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on January 15, 2004 at 10:58:26 PM by Larry Harsin
Your serial number is 121 593 and your 550 was built in 1962. Larry
880 Power Steering
IP: 63.163.213.242 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 11:35:06 AM by Steve Merritt
I've got a 1959 880 with factory power steering that is starting to leak pretty bad and the steering is loose. Other than that,it seems to work fine. I want to rebuild it with new seals & orings. What typically causes the loose steering? I assume it is in the helical gears. I've tried to tighten the trunion but it only makes the steering bind. Can these units be successfuly rebuilt to tighten and stop leaking and are parts available? Any insight and/or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Re(1): 880 Power Steering
IP: 67.2.248.196 Posted on January 15, 2004 at 10:52:44 PM by Larry Harsin
Don't try to tighten the trunion gears. As you have found, that does not work. The looseness is probably on the other end of the unit. Just remove the left end cap after you pull the unit out of the tractor, and unstake the adjusting nut and tighten it to remove the slack. Don't tighten it anymore than just to remove the looseness or it will bind. Then reassemble. The seals for the end caps are no longer available. The seals for the sector or the post are available and can be replaced without tearing the unit down. If the unit is leaking through the top seal, that can be replaced by removing the snap ring and turning the unit to the end of the travel with the engine running and letting the power steering pump push the seal out for you. Then you can replace this seal with a new one. The bottom side uses the same seal, only it is more difficult to replace. To do this, pull the unit up off of the steering post, leaving the oil lines attached to the unit and unscrewing the seal retaining nut with all the little holes in it. These holes are used for turning the seal retaining ring out. After removing this retaining ring, use the same proceedure as you did on the top to push the seal out to replace it. The cast lock ring on the sector adjusting part may need to be tightened a little. I would caution you to NOT tighten the sector adjustment as I have found too many of these to be tightened excessively. Larry
S55 spark plugs
IP: 192.219.124.127 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 10:30:59 AM by Stuart
Hi Larry, What do you recomend for a good quality spark plug make and model for my Super 55 HC. I want to replace the plugs, they are mismatched.
Re(1): S55 spark plugs
IP: 67.2.249.207 Posted on January 15, 2004 at 10:32:03 PM by Larry Harsin
I like the D16 Champion. A C86 AC plug works good, too. These are the 2 I would reccommend. Larry
1850&1855
IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 00:22:01 AM by Michael Gooch
Dear Larry I have a 1850 diesel model#285-22755,serial#183-549-427. Could you tell me the year it was made. I also have a problem with the three point hitch. I was picking up a bale of hay with it and it just dropped. Now the three point hitch won`t work. The arms are free but they won`t work with the lever. I was wondering if you could help. I also have a 1855 gas. Model#685-21004 Serial#241-873-685. I was wondering about the year on this one too. I need a air cleaner the top part for my 1855 do you know where i can get one. Thank You Mike
Re(1): 1850&1855
IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 01:11:20 AM by Larry Harsin
Your 1850 was built in 1967. The 1855 was built in 1973. Probably what happened to your 3 pt. is that a 1/4 inch pipe elbow that is attached to the lift cylinder inside the unit and has a relief valve on it, has broken off. This is not uncommon. To check for this, you must remove the top lid from the unit and go "fishing" with a strong magnet. You will detect the broken piece. I'm not sure you can retrieve the piece from the top, but you can find out if it is broken off of the lift cylinder. If you discover that this pipe elbow is broken, you will have to remove the entire unit from the tractor to repair it. AGCO has a special steel fitting to replace this, so that it won't happen again. Larry
Oliver 77 Rowcrop
IP: 69.14.149.37 Posted on January 13, 2004 at 09:10:55 PM by Tye Winkel
I have an Oliver 77 Rowcrop and I can't figure out where to check the transmission oil level. I drained both the transmission and the axle. I found the level plug for the rear, but not the transmission. Thanks!
Re(1): Oliver 77 Rowcrop
IP: 67.2.248.189 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 01:02:41 AM by Larry Harsin
The transmission does not have a level plug. It seeks it's own level when you put oil in, and you put oil in til it comes out the test plug on the back. Larry
1850 1000 pto
IP: 208.178.240.11 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 04:56:36 PM by Phil Mathes
I hope this question isn't too ignorant but I'm not that familiar with the 1850's and am looking at one to buy but it's over the internet and the person selling it doesn't know if it has a 1000 rpm pto option (ie. stubshaft, etc.) What specifically can I ask them to look for to see if it has 1000, or did the 1850's even have such an option? Thanks!
Re(1): 1850 1000 pto
IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 10:14:40 PM by Larry Harsin
1850's had the option. Most of them were built with 540 only, but some had the optional dual speed with 540 or 1000. On the dual speed tractor there is a shift rail in the bottom of the housing where it is stamped with "540 or 1000". There will be a shifter in that shift rail hole. There will be 2 output shafts in the dual speed unit. One is for the 540, which looks like the other 540 shafts on tractors and the other one will be a fine splined shaft for 1000 rpm. These must be switched when you change the speed with the shifter. If there is a shifter, it is dual speed. But if there is no shifter, it is probably 540 only. Larry
Re(2): 1850 1000 pto
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on January 13, 2004 at 01:03:30 PM by Larry from MD
Only one of the 2 shafts will be in the tractor at any time.
990/massey98
IP: 195.92.168.179 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 04:49:24 PM by dave king
any solution for poor running/misfire at idle, it goes away when revs increased.
Re(1): 990/massey98
IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 10:08:55 PM by Larry Harsin
It can be low compression or it can be a bad injector. The first thing I would do, is have the injectors tested. If they are o.k., you probably have low compression. This could mean a valve job or an overhaul. When you get the head off of it, you will see what you need to do. Larry
Re(2): 990/massey98
IP: 208.10.120.2 Posted on January 13, 2004 at 01:07:31 PM by Larry from MD
I have seen the injector rack out of ajustment so far that one injector will not fire at slow speed.This should be checked under the valve cover before removeing ijectors or anyting else.
Re(3): 990/massey98
IP: 195.92.168.172 Posted on January 14, 2004 at 03:20:54 PM by david king
thanks larry will check this out
77 diesel noise
IP: 208.25.240.199 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 04:03:42 PM by Neal Elbert
My 77 diesel has a few issues i would like answered if possible. It won't start without a touch of ether. It runs really rough for about 10 to 15 minutes after starting no matter what the temperature is outside. After ten minutes of running it starts popping erratically and smoking blueish white for about five minutes then smooths out. when running at low speeds you can hear a whisping sound. What is wrong?
Re(1): 77 diesel noise
IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 10:06:36 PM by Larry Harsin
I think you have leaky engine valves. Larry
1255 4WD
IP: 4.17.130.82 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 10:30:38 AM by Bob
Larry, My 1255 4WD is missing front right drive line parts with the exception of the inner right axle which doesn't have the universal ball claw on the outboard end, but a welded flange mating to nothing. I assume it was left from a previous aborted attempt to fabricate a replacement drive-line for otherwise hard to find or too-dear replacement parts. What do you see as the pitfalls in replacement of the original (missing) universal ball joint and outer axle with a splined CV joint mated to the present flanged inner axle? What other models share the same front drive-line? Thanks, Bob Fetterman Pepperell, MA
Re(1): 1255 4WD
IP: 67.2.242.53 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 10:05:01 PM by Larry Harsin
I have never worked on one of these. Check with Rick's Agri Parts at 866-264-9720. I think they will be able to help you. Larry
Oliver 70 Engine/Block
IP: 68.100.188.251 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 03:08:11 PM by Adam
My dad owns an Oliver 70 that we are looking to restore. Not sure of the year though. The block on this tractor has been cracked by result of water freezing one year when it was not properly put away. We are looking for either the entire engine or just the block in order to get it back into running condition. What would be the best way to go about this? Get the block or get a whole engine? We are also interested in the 70 on your for sale page for parts. Where should we look for a block or engine for this machine. Thank you for your help.
Re(1): Oliver 70 Engine/Block
IP: 67.2.248.170 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 08:22:09 AM by Larry Harsin
Whether you replace the whole engine or just the block is a choice you will have to make. A complete engine is going to be hard to find and then it will have to be overhauled anyway before you put it in. I have an engine block. I have a 70 for parts, also. Email us or call us with more particulars about what you need. Also, tell us the serial number and we can tell you the year of your tractor. Our email is: cobalt@rconnect.com Our phone is: 712-362-2966. Larry
1800A perkins conversion
IP: 12.15.123.158 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 12:19:52 PM by Syd
Larry I have an 1800A, somewhere along the line it ended up with a 283 gas in it. The crank mains are aready at .040 and bad. I have a 354 perkins from an MF combine I would like to put in. Can you tell me what would all be needed to make the swap? Thanks
Re(1): 1800A perkins conversion
IP: 67.2.248.170 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 08:24:48 AM by Larry Harsin
You would need to get a front frame from an 1850. You will need a different front cover on the engine. You are going to have a radiator problem as the bottom outlet is on the other side. That is the 3 main things I can think of now. You may also need a different bell housing. Larry
1930 Row Crop
IP: 69.66.96.22 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 09:06:51 AM by Kevin Brown
Larry: Thanks for recent info on 28-44. My other Oliver is a 1930 Row Crop that I am restoring. I noticed something on the transmission case that raised my curiosity and everyone asked so far doesn't seem to know what it is. About three inches below the belt pully lever there is a round opening about one and three eights inches in size with a three bolt pattern arranged around it with one bolt each above and below and one in front. The hole itself is plugged with what looks like a frost plug for an engine block. Not there by accident as there is plenty of ribbing and sockets cast for the bolt and opening into the transmission case. This case is the first of three numbers listed in the parts book. My question is what went into that opening and bolted onto the side of the transmission? A power lift perhaps?
Re(1): 1930 Row Crop
IP: 67.2.242.51 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 08:41:13 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. They never offered a power lift on that tractor. That tractor was never designed or built to carry a cultivator. Larry
Re(2): 1930 Row Crop
IP: 69.66.96.31 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 11:57:23 PM by kevin Brown
Larry: Also need a source for a fan belt for the 28-44. Oliver # is A 372. Gates supplied one they said was the same - but it was too long. Kevin Brown
Re(2): 1930 Row Crop
IP: 67.2.248.170 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 08:31:37 AM by Larry Harsin
Finding a fan belt for the 28-44 is tough. I looked and looked for one and I believe I may have gotten the last one in existance! :) Check with NAPA and see if they show a listing that has the specifications or dimensions of that belt. If you can get this info, you can try different suppliers or companies to see if they can match it this way. Larry
Oliver 70 Transmission Leak
IP: 64.12.96.13 Posted on January 10, 2004 at 07:36:20 PM by jerry
Hi Larry. I'm finally getting to work on restoring my 1940 Oliver 70. This is an expensive tractor since I had to build a new shop to do this with. I have the transmission fluid leaking out between the transmission housing and the axle housing. I thought there might just be a gasket there but it doesn't show one in the parts book. Any help you could give would be a great help. Thanks in advance and good luck on your auction.
Re(1): Oliver 70 Transmission Leak
IP: 67.2.242.5 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 01:50:34 AM by Larry Harsin
Make sure the mounting bolts are tight. Those tractors came with 140 wt. transmission grease. If you use lighter grease than that, it is more likely to leak. For instance, on the input shaft in the transmission, there is no seal and it is normal for that to be moist in that area. Check to be sure there is not water in the bottom of the transmission and that the transmission grease is at the correct level with the check plug. What happens is that water gets in there and raised the grease level too high and grease runs out every place. Larry
1250 PARTS
IP: 206.74.182.36 Posted on January 10, 2004 at 05:25:19 PM by Butcher
Can you tell what year or S.N.# 1250 OLIVER rear wheels will fit a 550?
Re(1): 1250 PARTS
IP: 67.2.242.5 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 01:44:29 AM by Larry Harsin
I don't think any will fit as the 1250 is metric and the 550 is not. If they fit, it would be a coincedence. Larry
Electrical Problem
IP: 69.47.115.46 Posted on January 10, 2004 at 09:21:25 AM by Jim
I have a Ford F-150 4.6 L ext cab. the turn signals started to act up where they worked sometimes and not others, from one use to next at times. now they quit workin all together along with my remote start, which tries to ingage such that it just engages the relays under the hood fuses panel and doesn't start (remote start) the truck still runs. I've checked the obvious fuses under dash and under the hood. it is an after market remote start I had installed when the truck was new. I've traded relay 1 and 3 under the hood. and fuses 7 and 14 under the hood. I have a meter if there's something I knew of to trouble shoot I will.
Re(1): Electrical Problem
IP: 67.2.242.5 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 01:42:06 AM by Larry Harsin
I havn't a clue. I work only on old Oliver tractors. Larry
Re(1): Electrical Problem
IP: 69.66.99.127 Posted on January 11, 2004 at 11:11:23 PM by mike
I would guess on your turn signal problom to probably be your multifunction switch. If your remote start went out at the same time I might start with the Neutral saftey switch. I dont believe that would have anything to do with your turn signals though. You might want to see if you have tail, brake, and backup lights. i hope this helps a little
Re(1): Electrical Problem
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 12, 2004 at 11:50:57 PM by jerry ulmer
If your vehicle is several years old or operated up north where they salt roads, the intermittant turnsignal can be in a lost ground through corroded sockets at one or various stop/tail/turn lights. They are easier to clean and check than pulling the steering column so I'd check all of them. A turn signal making the marker lamp jump next to it is a dead giveaway that the turnsignal voltage is going to ground through a marker light to another fixture. I worked in a small town Ford dealership in West Texas through high school fixing lights and signals for state inspections and have been driving them for over thirty years now (and still fixing the lights and signals!!!) Lots of luck. ju
identifing my oliver
IP: 162.83.140.220 Posted on January 9, 2004 at 07:44:48 PM by daniel
I recently bought an oliver tractor with a ware loader and backhoe I have been trying to identify it by picture on the net but cannot pin it down. The tractor has a 6 cyl. dsl with a 6 speed tranny. the air intake is closer to the front than the exaust, the grill is flat with square grills and the oliver name is in a circle centered in an oval plate at the top of the grill. is there anyone who can help. I could send pictures. thanks
Re(1): identifing my oliver
IP: 67.2.249.219 Posted on January 9, 2004 at 09:38:35 PM by Larry Harsin
It sounds like it could possibly be a 770. We have one like it on a 770. Email some pictures to us at: cobalt@rconnect.com and we can tell you better. Larry
(880 trans oil)
IP: 209.181.247.94 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 04:49:14 PM by Glen
What oil do you put in the tranny of a 1961 880 with power booster? Brand,weight? (Service book says oliver oil mixed with 10w30?????) Thanks, Glen
Re(1): (880 trans oil)
IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 07:00:47 PM by Larry Harsin
You can use an oil like Hy-Tran from Case/IH. I use Mobil-Tran HD 50. JD Hy-Gard or there is one from the Co-op Elevator called Quick Lift or HTB (which stands for Hydraulic, Transmission & Brakes. I would stay away from transmission gear lube with GL-5 as it is too slippery. The sprague clutch will tend to slip. Larry
1900 Cockshutt, install different GM??
IP: 64.91.86.226 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 02:24:24 PM by David B.
Hi Everyone, got a pulling question, I have a 1900 C#ckshutt, 4-53 GM in it, could I put a 4-71 in it?? How close to fitting would it be, what is the difference in Length, would you have to change anything in the tub, grind the bottom out maybe??? thanks guys!
Re(1): 1900 Cockshutt, install different GM??
IP: 67.2.249.144 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 06:55:35 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know. That 4-71 is a lot bigger engine. Larry
Re(2): 1900 Cockshutt, install different GM??
IP: 68.107.215.91 Posted on January 9, 2004 at 00:01:29 AM by jerry ulmer
I have 4-71 detroits in some old motor graders and scrapers as well as a 4-53 in a 282 Hancock Scraper (uses Oliver 1950 industrial power unit) The 71 series Detroits turn at 21/2200 rpm max while the 53 series are 25/2800. Although you would have more hp you would loose a lot of speed. The two cycle demands high rpm to gain torque and is dead when you lug it. The sizes are LOTS different, also. Call a Stewart-Stevenson dealer and they can give you better tech help. JU
1800A Main Bearings
IP: 66.84.175.182 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 10:40:06 PM by Brian
Larry, I'm having trouble finding main bearings for my 1800A gas engine. Apparently Oliver changed the width between the A and B series and kept the same width all the way through from then on. No one seems to carry bearings any more for the early 1800's. Any ideas of where I can get a set---anything from 0.20 to 0.40 under? Thanks.
Re(1): 1800A Main Bearings
IP: 67.2.248.177 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 11:49:05 PM by Larry Harsin
Check with Maibach Tractor 800-808-9932. Larry
1953 77 row crop
IP: 131.151.84.189 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 04:12:45 PM by Gary Abbott
Larry, I'm new to this Oliver thing and i have a couple questions, Where is the s/n located on a 53 77 rowcrop? According to my manual I have a gas "hc",but when I recently went to the local parts store to purchase a set of gaskets and seals they wanted to know if it had a waukesha engine. My engine block has 185220 m100 on it and the head has 185402 m180. Thanks in advance.
Re(1): 1953 77 row crop
IP: 67.2.248.177 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 11:47:06 PM by Larry Harsin
The serial # is on the dash below the steering wheel on the left side. Your engine is a Waukesha 185. Larry
1855 cab
IP: 171.75.105.156 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 04:31:40 PM by john bedwell
larry, will a hiniker 1300 cab off of a 1750, fit on an 1855?
Re(1): 1855 cab
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 08:00:07 AM by Larry Harsin
It should. It might take some modifications. Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. could tell you if it would fit. Give him a call 800-320-6224. Larry
engine
IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 11:57:39 AM by todd skinkis
i have a 1967 1950 oliver. the chain that joins the engine and rearend is bad. should i also replace the gears? do i have to split the tractor to do it?
Re(1): engine
IP: 67.2.248.70 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 01:52:11 PM by Larry Harsin
I would simply replace the chain with a new one. To change the sprockets (gears), you have to either lift the engine out or split the tractor. If possible, I would wait and replace the sprockets when the tractor needs a new clutch. Larry
1655 hydralic screen
IP: 134.129.30.29 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 10:06:19 AM by karl
Pieces of plastic (cylinder packing?) continue to get lodged in the hydralic pressure relief value in the 1655. Is there supposed to be a screen located right behind the pressure relief value? I can't see it, so either I am looking in the wrong location or it is missing. If it is missing, where can I get a replacement screen? thanks
Re(1): 1655 hydralic screen
IP: 67.2.248.70 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 01:49:02 PM by Larry Harsin
On the late style relief valve there is a screen. It is down in the hole and you have to fish it out of there. You can get a new one from Tom at O'Brien Co Impl. 800-320-6224. Your main hydraulic filter should be catching that stuff. I suppose it could be the cylinder packing. Sometimes they do break up. Larry
Super 88 diesel value
IP: 216.138.51.111 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 09:23:28 PM by Kevin Bauza
Gentlemen, I realize this is a technical forum; but I sure could use some advice regarding the ballpark range of prices for Super 88 RC diesels. This unit came from a loving owner. I have not seen it yet, but I have other pieces of machinery this man owns over the years; and they were all in great condition. (original). I want to be fair and offer a fair price. I know mostly about MM values, but inexperienced in Oliver. Thank You!!
Re(1): Super 88 diesel value
IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:18:00 PM by Larry Harsin
Value depends on lots of things. Is it all there (side panels etc). The condition of the tires. You say it is in good condition running etc. I'd say $2000 - $3000. Larry
550 Generator light on
IP: 64.151.22.16 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 04:42:35 PM by Donald Gieszelmann
Have a 1962 550. Generator puts out 13V. Generator light stays on, any ideas appreciated. Also could source for parts ? Thanks, new to Olivers.
Re(1): 550 Generator light on
IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:14:26 PM by Larry Harsin
Your regulator is probably not doing what it should. I'd remove the ground cable from the battery and remove the cover from the voltage regulator. Then I would take some fine sandpaper and sand both sets of points on the voltage regulator. Then blow them clean with compressed air and try it and see if that helps. You can get 550 parts at O'Brien Co. Impl. Ask for Tom 800-320-6224. Larry
diesel leak
IP: 63.111.142.170 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 03:35:30 PM by kenny mcadams
I have a problem with diesel leaking in the crankcase any idea
Re(1): diesel leak IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:10:21 PM by Larry Harsin
What model tractor? The first thing I would check is the diaphram on the lift pump on the right side of the engine. Larry
770 Max. Tire Size
IP: 66.66.122.91 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 01:54:46 PM by Justin
I have an Oliver 770 equipped with 13.6-38 rear tires - the tires are shot and the sidewalls have split open so bad you can see the tubes. This tractor is used exclusively with a 350 Bushel PTO driven Knight manure spreader. It's time for new tires, and I would like to maximize flotation with the biggest footprint possible. What is the largest/widest tire I can run on the original rims? The front tires are OK for now, but in the future, what options do I have for wider fronts aside from custom rims? Thanks.
Re(1): 770 Max. Tire Size
IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:08:49 PM by Larry Harsin
You could put a bigger tire, but you will have to get larger rims first. You could use 12 in rims and then use 14.9x38. If you could find 14 inch rims, you could use 15.5x38 or 16.9x38 tires. There are rims available that you can use the 7.50x16 tires. Email me or call me - I might have some rims. 712-362-2966. Larry
Re(2): 770 Max. Tire Size
IP: 68.155.19.207 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 09:27:43 PM by George Steadman
My grandfather and dad bought a 770 new in 61 has 15.5 38 on 12" rims has been that way ever since.
Re(1): 770 Max. Tire Size
IP: 24.187.69.249 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 08:04:25 PM by Halbert
You can probably get away with going one size over on the rims. A 13.6x38 should be on a 12" rim, so a 14.9 should work OK on 12". If you're not sure of the rim width you will have to measure. If you want a bigger footprint and can spring for radials that would be the way to go.
muffler
IP: 65.174.170.203 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 10:55:44 AM by Eric Gehring
I need to know two things. 1) I just bought a 1950 77rc 334388077d does the d mean its a diesel mine has a gas in it. 2)Is it suppose to have the muffler under the hood? All the ones I've seen are above the hood but don/t look original. thanks
Re(1): muffler
IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:03:02 PM by Larry Harsin
No, it doesn't mean diesel. Yes, it was built with the muffler under the hood. The mufflers are put above the hood to get the heat away from the engine. This was usually done when they put over sized pistons in the tractor. Larry
880 Compression Check
IP: 64.19.85.135 Posted on January 4, 2004 at 10:36:10 PM by Kris
I just did a compression check on my 880 gas and found all cylinders to be 155-165 except #3 which reads about 125. I kept checking it because it caught my attention and each time I cranked it and reset the tester it seemed to go up about 5 psi at a time-125,130,135,140 and finally about 148.I ran the tractor again and rechecked. Again the first test about 130 and seemed to climb about 5 psi each test to about 150. I tried squirting some oil in and rechecking but didn't seem to make a difference. Something else I noticed....during the test the cranking speed on #3 seemed a little slower compared to all of the rest of the cylinders...like something was making the starter work more-but only while the comp. tester was in #3 cylinder. Any ideas on why #3 is so much lower-possible valve problem? Thanks and Happy New Year!
Re(1): 880 Compression Check
IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 08:59:39 AM by Larry Harsin
My first guess would be that you have a valve that is starting to leak a little. The first thing I would do is check the valve adjustment. If the adjustment isn't tight on #3, then I would think you are going to have to pull the head and investigate further. It probably needs all of the valves ground. With the head removed, you can also check for wear in the cylinders. Larry
looking for a manuel for a 1950, model #77 Oliver tractor
IP: 65.227.201.71 Posted on January 4, 2004 at 08:30:59 PM by Bob Corlett
I just bought my first Oliver tractor, a model 77 and would like to find an owners manuel for it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Re(1): looking for a manuel for a 1950, model #77 Oliver tractor
IP: 67.2.249.125 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 08:55:26 AM by Larry Harsin
You can get a manual from the museum in Charles City. Email Mary Ann Townsend at: fchs@fiai.net The museum has manuals for everything Oliver ever made. Larry
28-44 Oliver
IP: 69.66.96.124 Posted on January 4, 2004 at 10:48:44 AM by Kevin Brown
Sir: I am currently restoring an early 1935 model 28-44. It was one of the unrated ones with the serial plate left blank where the power rating was usually stamped. In early 1936 these were called the high compression special and rated at 32-50 if my research is correct. This engine has a high compression head and no sign of having had a gasoline tank. My first question is what would be the proper decals for the gas tank. The fenders still had the regular 28-44 decals but I can't make out anything on the fuel tank. Second question is what would the original muffler have looked like. I realize it was only available as an optional sales extra but is listed in the parts book though without a picture. As I do not care for straight pipes I would like to have an original muffler. Gratefull for any info. Kevin Brown
Re(1): 28-44 Oliver
IP: 67.2.242.85 Posted on January 4, 2004 at 02:31:57 PM by Larry Harsin
The pictures that I have, shows it with a straight pipe muffler. Also in this picture, on the gas tank is the word Oliver across the top of a shield. We can't tell which shield it is. You need to talk to Lyle Dumont. He makes decals and would probably know what comes in the set. His phone is 641-622-2592 His email is: Oliver@lisco.com Larry
Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on January 3, 2004 at 09:48:03 PM by D. Stewart
What can be done to extract some power from the little Waukesha 160? Will any 180 (66) parts interchange? I know that the "60" isn't the most desirable tractor to use as a pulling tractor but I kinda like the 'ole girl and am going to give it a try. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 67.2.242.85 Posted on January 4, 2004 at 02:23:29 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know what you can do for a 60. In the first place, there aren't many parts available for them. A few 66 parts will interchange, but not very many of them. Larry
Re(2): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 152.163.252.71 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 10:32:09 PM by D. Stewart
Will a 66 motor bolt in a 60?
Re(3): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 67.2.249.181 Posted on January 5, 2004 at 11:19:43 PM by Larry Harsin
My first thought is No, but it just might. I don't know. Larry
Re(4): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 68.155.19.207 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 09:24:03 PM by George Steadman
Requires motor mount work
Re(5): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 152.163.252.4 Posted on January 8, 2004 at 05:26:00 PM by D. Stewart
Thanks
Re(6): Oliver 60 RC Puller
IP: 161.45.215.189 Posted on January 30, 2004 at 12:20:25 PM by Cody Adgent
A 66 motor will go in it. I would go with a 550 motor if I could find one. my 2 cents
White/Oliver 4-78 Hydraulic Pump
IP: 12.165.174.16 Posted on January 3, 2004 at 06:57:13 AM by A.P.
I am trying to find a source for parts for the two section hydraulic pump mounted on the front of a White/Oliver 4-78 loader-backhoe. Cessna does not offer parts for this pump and has listed it as obsolete since the early 70's. Do you know of a source for parts, a very good condition used pump or a replacement pump by a different manufacturer? Thank you, A.P.
Re(1): White/Oliver 4-78 Hydraulic Pump
IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on January 3, 2004 at 08:26:17 AM by Larry Harsin
Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If Tom can't help, try Force America 515-573-8179. You'll probably have to get a different bracket and put a different pump in there. Larry
12 volt conversions
IP: 209.103.234.24 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 10:33:28 PM by Jason
Hi Larry, We are converting a 77 Standard over to 12 volt. We were told localy that a GM 10SI alternator would fit and allow us to keep the side curtains on, as long as we had the one fan belt setup on our tractor, which we do. Well, i got an alternator, and it does not fit under the curtains. There isn't even enough room between the engine and the curtain to fit it in, no matter how we mount it, unless we mount it above the head. What do you do when you convert them? Thanks again, Jason
Re(1): 12 volt conversions
IP: 67.2.248.89 Posted on January 3, 2004 at 08:22:47 AM by Larry Harsin
Typically I don't put side panels on a 77 when it has an alternator. I strive to leave the 77's equipped with a generator as they were originally. Some of the foreign built alternators on their small cars are smaller and will work fine. Larry
Re(2): 12 volt conversions
IP: 204.110.170.5 Posted on January 6, 2004 at 02:59:33 PM by Brad Austin
Jason, I just got done with a 12 volt conversion on my 88 standard. I used a Nissan internally regulated alternator and the schematic off of Yesterdays tractors. I had to make my alt. bracket, but everything turned out great. It all fits under the side panels and works good. If you want the belt number let me know and i'll grt it to you.
Re(3): 12 volt conversions
IP: 67.2.248.243 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 08:09:14 AM by Larry Harsin
The 88 has more room in there than the 77. But if you can get a little alternator, it might work. Larry
Re(3): 12 volt conversions
IP: 209.103.234.24 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 09:58:44 AM by Jason
Cool, could you get me a link to that site with the schematic on it? I'm really interested. My buddy races cars, and he is going to get me some info on a Hitachi alternator that measures 3.5" across, and is a one wire unit. I have a feeling that this unit is going to be expensive though. Thanks!
(12 volt conversions)
IP: 204.110.170.5 Posted on January 7, 2004 at 08:57:12 PM by Brad Austin
Jason, Go to Yesterdays tractor web sight and search in the archives for 12 volt convertions. The guy who did it did a excellent job of telling you just what to do. His converversion was on a Farmall, but it all applies. Its just my opinion but if you can fit a generator under the tin work you can fit a small alternator, providing you don't mind doing a little fabricating on a nice, neat bracket. Hope this helps! Brad Austin
38" Oliver 1900 Wheels
IP: 67.27.60.132 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 07:53:07 PM by John
Hello Larry and gang: I'm hunting a set of 38" wheels for my Oliver 1900 with the 10 bolt hubs. Where can I find them? Do you all know anyone parting out one of these tractors? Thanks,
Re(1): 38
IP: 67.2.242.40 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 10:02:15 PM by Larry Harsin
I don't know of anyone parting out a 1900. Check with Worthington Tractor Parts. 800-533-5304. Larry
550 oliver
IP: 152.163.252.34 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 05:52:09 PM by joe
i have a model 550 oliver i just installed a brush hog.the pto doesnt have enough power to cut small brush.is this tractors pto engaged all the time?
Re(1): 550 oliver
IP: 67.2.242.40 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 09:59:49 PM by Larry Harsin
It isn't supposed to be engaged all the time. If it is, your PTO clutch needs work. The tractor will have to be split and repaired. It probably has oil in the plates and the plates are probably warped. Larry
Oliver Crawler Loader
IP: 205.161.173.109 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 00:50:26 AM by Lou
My dad has a front end loader Model 3W1 with Serial Number 2294. Also on a box by the seat is a plate stating Built-Ware Machine Works Model VIDD44C with Serial Number KCI 2322. It is yellow with tracks. How can I find out more information and how much it's worth?
Re(1): Oliver Crawler Loader
IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 07:10:23 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Landis Zimmerman at 717-738-2573. Larry
1250
IP: 24.25.151.82 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 11:18:01 PM by John Tryon
What's the difference between an Oliver 1250 and 1250A? Can the same exhaust manifold be used on either?
Re(1): 1250
IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 07:07:52 AM by Larry Harsin
The 1250A is just a little bit newer version and has a few improvements on it. I don't believe the exhaust manifolds will interchange. Larry
1900A hyd troubles
IP: 205.188.208.39 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 07:23:39 PM by Robbie
I have a 1900 Series A. It has the early style hyd housing on it. The filter is on the side of the seat. The hyd oil leaks into the rearend almost immediatly after filling it up. We have replaced both of the large housing gaskets on eack side of the tin oil pan and also replaced the draft rod seal with no luck. What do we need to look for now. This tractor is a riceland model with 1 remote and pto and 3 pt. Its 2 wheel drive also.
Re(1): 1900A hyd troubles
IP: 67.2.249.169 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 08:53:46 PM by Larry Harsin
I would guess that it is either a bad pump seal on the pump itself or the oil pan has a crack in it allowing the oil to run through. Larry
Re(2): 1900A hyd troubles
IP: 205.188.208.103 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 00:34:21 AM by Robbie
The oil leaks thru the shaft and chain coupler to the engine. It will be pouring out at the chain coupler itself.
Re(3): 1900A hyd troubles
IP: 67.2.249.86 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 07:03:29 AM by Larry Harsin
You have too much oil in your transmission due to the leakage from the hydraulic unit. Thus is leaks out of the chain coupler. Lower this transmission grease to the correct level, then look for the leak. Larry
Re(4): 1900A hyd troubles
IP: 152.163.242.206 Posted on January 2, 2004 at 10:14:02 AM by Robbie
Thanks. I was just wondering if a seal was gone there also. I have the housing pulled off and will get to fixing it this week.
550 Regulator
IP: 207.144.98.89 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 01:28:39 AM by J. Mash
Larry, one of our 550's will only charge 12 volts ideling and about 13.5 at 1600 rpm ( no lights on ) is this enough running at 1 or 2 hour intervals in winter time?
Re(1): 550 Regulator
IP: 67.2.248.143 Posted on January 1, 2004 at 01:46:22 AM by Larry Harsin
I think so. If it doesn't keep it up good, just ground the field for the winter and it will charge more. Larry