"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" Jan., 2002 Archives


CLUTCh

Posted by Neal Nelson on 2/8/2002 at 10:26:50 IP: 204.95.211.29 i have a 770 row crop that is in need of a clutch. i have worked on this tractor for sbout 5 years but nothing of this major type of work i need a book to help get started. As I can only guess as to how to trouble shoot the problem Thanks Neal Nelson

Re: CLUTCh

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/8/2002 at 18:33:20 IP: 209.163.7.32 You can get an Operator's Manual from Mary Ann Townsend at Oliver Headquarters at: hpocacc@fiai.net You should also get an I & T Shop Manual from Jensales Inc. 800-443-0625. If you find you are in need of a clutch or other parts, email us and maybe we can help you find them. Larry............

oliver combine ??

Posted by Eddie on 2/7/2002 at 19:21:12 IP: 152.163.207.213 I have an opportunity to get (for free) an Oliver combine. I cant however find any photos of such a beast. Is this person mistaken, or is this just a rare beast??

Re: oliver combine ??

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/8/2002 at 06:32:43 IP: 209.163.7.49 There are lots of Oliver combines depending on the area where you live. Some areas had more than others. If you know the model number etc. you can get information on it (Operator's Manual etc.) from Mary Ann Townsend at Charles City Headquarters. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry............

HART PARR 18-27 ??

Posted by JASON on 2/7/2002 at 10:09:27 IP: 209.163.16.4 I HAVE WHAT I WAS TOLD A HART PARR 18-27 TRACTOR.SERIAL NUMBER 01733. IT HAS A SINGLE FRONT WHEEL & REAR F&H 42 INCH SPOKE WHEELS. THE ENGINE IS STUCK BUT THE REST IS IN GOOD SHAPE. I WOULD LIKE TO SELL THIS TRACTOR HOW DO I MARKET THIS AND HOW MUCH IS IT WORTH? ALSO I HAVE AN OLD WOODEN CORNSHELLER. AND I NEED REAR 13-40 TIRES FOR AN OLIVER ROWCROP 80. THANKS.

Re: HART PARR 18-27 ??

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/8/2002 at 06:28:14 IP: 209.163.7.49 Your 18-27 is a 1930. I would say it is worth from $500 to $1000. You could contact Sherry Schaefer about putting an ad in the Hart-Parr Oliver Collectors' Magazine. 217-563-8327 or sherry@oliverinformation.com. Or you could put an ad in Antique Power Magazine. 937-767-2726 or antique@antiquepower.com. Antique Power is a good place to advertise for the tires also. Larry.......

Radiator Screen

Posted by Wayne on 2/6/2002 at 16:34:58 IP: 209.143.29.197 Hi Larry, I need a radiator screen for my 1655. Part number 107 493- A. Apparently this is no longer available from Agco, And I have not had any luck at salvage yards. Any help would be appreciated.

Re: Radiator Screen

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/6/2002 at 22:58:52 IP: 209.163.7.72 Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. I just got one there yesterday. I hope it wasn't the last one! :-) Larry...............

oliver 77 rowcrop

Posted by MIchael Wiklanski on 2/6/2002 at 00:24:35 IP: 216.65.167.150 Will a 250 or 292 gm sraight six bolt up to my tractors bell housing?Ive been told It will,but the engine will not last as long if I work It hard.I plow the driveway with It and work up a few acers with a two bottom plow.It bent a rod an there a few other problems Its in need of a overhaul,or a new short block,but the prices are way to steep for me,a running tractor is worth less than a rebuilt shortblock . Could you give me some technical advise about this chevy conversion,I have a couple doners that'll cost me nothing but the work,let me know what you think before I do this.thankyou p.s. I won't need the pto

Re: oliver 77 rowcrop

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/6/2002 at 06:46:24 IP: 209.163.7.72 I have not done one of these conversions. Possibly someone else reading this will answer you. Larry...............

Oliver 80

Posted by Brian Woods on 2/5/2002 at 21:53:53 IP: 64.210.52.240 Larry, I am working on a 1946 80 row crop. I took the manifold off to fix an intake leak but my dealer told me the gaskets are not available. Do you know of anyone that is reproducing them and/or manifolds? this one has a couple of cracks in it. Thanks. Brian

Re: Oliver 80

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/6/2002 at 06:40:08 IP: 209.163.7.72 Rosewood Machine and Tool, P.O. Box 17,Rosewood OH 43070. Ph. 937-362-3871. They are reproducing manifolds and may have gaskets. Otherwise, Olson's Gaskets, ph. 360-871-1207, www.olsonsgaskets.com Larry..........

Oliver 1650 wheelbase

Posted by Joe on 2/5/2002 at 15:27:24 IP: 208.178.123.113 Larry, I recently purchased a 1650 from a farmer who used it on real flat property - so he had the rear wheelbase very narrow. I want to widen it because my farm doesn't have a flat spot on it. I have never done this. Do I jack the tractor up and put the rear end on blocks in order to switch out the rear wheels? It looks like if I swap sides and flip the hubs over I will get quite a bit more wheelbase width. Can two men do this job without a lift? Any help you can give will be very much appreciated. Thanks for your time! Joe

Re: Oliver 1650 wheelbase

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/6/2002 at 06:31:21 IP: 209.163.7.72 Yes, jack it up and put it on blocks and make sure it is safe and secure. It is a 2 man job. Swapping sides is acceptable. Be sure to tighten the U bolts and hub bolts adequately and recheck them after you've used the tractor a short time. The hub bolts should be tightened at least 125 ft. lbs. and the axle U bolts should be tightened to approx. 200 ft. lbs. Finally, be assured this is a 2 man job and safety is the utmost concern. It sounds like you need an Operator's Manual. You can get one from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net Larry......

Cranking Effort

Posted by Rich on 2/5/2002 at 07:32:20 IP: 65.209.153.225 Larry I am in the process of rebuilding my S-77, as I have installed the crank, pistons, camshaft etc I have been turning the engine over with a torque wrench. I now have everything in the engine except for the sparkplugs and the rocker arms, the torque required to turn the engine is up to 75 ft-lbs. I believe that most of this is due to the drag of the piston rings in the bore. Does this seem like a reasonable cranking effort? As always some people say it is too high and some say that it is OK. Regards Rich

Re: Cranking Effort

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/5/2002 at 21:18:14 IP: 209.163.7.98 I think that that is reasonable. Larry....................

Re: Cranking Effort

Posted by Rich on 2/6/2002 at 06:42:32 IP: 65.209.153.225 Larry Thanks for the feedback, I was getting concerned that something was tight, but I haven't found anything. Rich

seat and back cushions for OC3

Posted by polk crawler on 1/29/2002 at 11:35:43 IP: 158.104.97.28 I know this is likely an almost non-mechanic inquiry but I am trying to locate a source for bottom and back seat cushions for the 1953 OC3 recently acquired. Also, any info on the Hydreco valve and Anderson blade as to service and maintenance of the system. The grille is not OEM but I can live with it. Thanks for any help and keep up the good work. Lots of us appreciate tapping into your years of experience. PC

Re: seat and back cushions for OC3

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/29/2002 at 19:38:31 IP: 209.163.7.25 Contact Landis Zimmerman 717-738-2573. He is a Cletrac Expert and can help you with everything you need. Larry............

Re: seat and back cushions for OC3

Posted by P0LK CRAWLER on 1/30/2002 at 11:30:46 IP: 158.104.97.28 several responses have referred me to Zimmerman. Does he have an e-mail or onlh LD land line? Thanks for the info. PC

Re: seat and back cushions for OC3

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/30/2002 at 15:52:45 IP: 209.163.7.44 Landis has only a telephone. He lives in Ephrata PA and has a Cletrac business there. Larry.............

OC3 fan belt change

Posted by P0LK CRAWLER on 1/30/2002 at 11:43:47 IP: 158.104.97.28 Messed up first posting! On my OC3 a hydr pump and fluid reservoir are mounted forward of the radiator; pump is coupled to front end of shaft and pulley. What is the procedure for replacing a fan belt? Propsect of removing coupling and maybe loosening or pulling pump forward off shaft to get fan belt on scares me! Thanks for any advice. PC

Re: OC3 fan belt change

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/30/2002 at 18:28:02 IP: 209.163.7.47 Get unscared and start unbolting stuff cause that is what you have to do!!!! Larry............

evaluating undercarriage

Posted by polk crawler on 2/1/2002 at 09:34:25 IP: 158.104.97.28 how do I go about evaluating the % on the undercarriage of an OC3?

Re: evaluating undercarriage

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/1/2002 at 18:36:17 IP: 209.163.7.35 Look at the rails, rollers and sprockets and try to figure out how much they are worn. Possibly have another knowledgeable person look at it also. Larry...................

dead end; where now?

Posted by P0LK CRAWLER on 2/4/2002 at 22:26:05 IP: 158.104.97.28 Working on the the 1953 OC3. Got mag professionally repaired; rebuilt the carb with instructions from YTmag; put new 8V battery in; hit the starter button; engine spins but not a burp; a little starting fluid in #1 cyl produced a pop and bang but no start; spark getting to all four plugs; checked both #1 and #2, found no evidence of fuel by sight or smell on plugs; what is the next thing I should check or do? Thanks.PC

Re: dead end; where now?

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/5/2002 at 06:05:29 IP: 209.163.7.15 Are you sure that you have the magneto correctly timed to the engine? If there was no smell of fuel on the spark plugs, are you sure the fuel got there? Is the engine developing compression? Could valve timing be off? Has this engine been taken apart? Larry...........

Re: dead end; where now?

Posted by polk crawler on 2/5/2002 at 09:22:16 IP: 158.104.97.28 timing does need to be checked; compression? Yes have no idea about past history of engine take down

Re: dead end; where now?

Posted by polk crawler on 2/6/2002 at 17:58:18 IP: 158.104.97.28 Larry: problem was tiny jet, plugged, at base of main nozzle in lower body of carb; pays to read the small print; engine took off but blew a hydraulic hose; one dern thing after another. Thanks; enjoy the website. PC

Re: dead end; where now?

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/7/2002 at 07:15:15 IP: 209.163.7.52 GREAT!!!!!! Glad to hear you are making progress. Some days it takes a lot of looking! Larry................

1855&1655

Posted by mm on 2/4/2002 at 08:33:43 IP: 144.92.164.197 There are both these tractors for sale. Can you tell me anything about them. I am plan on using them in the field. Anything thing to look for I have heard the crank is bad on them I believe they are Waukesha engines

Re: 1855&1655

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/4/2002 at 13:06:38 IP: 209.163.7.39 The 1655 has a better reputation for durability than the 1855. The 1855, however, could have been upgraded. If it has an engine block that has a factory oil cooler, chances are it has been upgraded and that will make it better. If your information tells you that the cranks are bad, purchase them accordingly. They are expensive to overhaul. Larry..........

Oliver 3 point implements

Posted by Lester Peters on 2/3/2002 at 19:58:15 IP: 207.177.83.241 I am looking for Oliver 3 point implements, such as disc, rotary hoe, planter, etc. Also, Oliver hay conditioner, running gear, wagon box, etc.

Re: Oliver 3 point implements

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/4/2002 at 06:21:57 IP: 209.163.7.58 I don't have any of that stuff. Check with Arnold Meyer at 507-372-7788 or Dean Smith at 507-477-3423. They may know of some. Larry...............

tires

Posted by Dan on 2/3/2002 at 15:27:10 IP: 207.177.83.69 We are restoring a Oliver 70 and are in the need for 11x40 tires. We are having trouble locating them. Could you give us any information on where to possibly locate some tires

Re: tires

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/4/2002 at 06:17:28 IP: 209.163.7.58 You can get tires from m.e.Miller tire. Their website address is: www.millertire.com Larry................

Oliver 66 hydraulic leak

Posted by Mark Siegman on 2/2/2002 at 12:16:08 IP: 216.170.185.224 I bought an Oliver 66 and found it has on oil leak in the hydraulic oil reservoir. I have a tractor with two electric levers on the steering wheel and two manual levers that come out of the side of the hydraulic box. The oil leaks out around the two levers in the side of the hydraulic box. I cannot see any oil seal on the lever shafts or on the hydraulic box and my parts book does not show an oil seal there as well. So how do I stop the oil leak? In a matter of a week or two the oil has drained below the lever shafts.

Re: Oliver 66 hydraulic leak

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/3/2002 at 00:01:06 IP: 209.163.7.82 I think if you'd take the box off of the unit and take the 2 levers out of there, you will find a little "O" ring groove on the 2 lever shafts. Replace these little "O" rings. Larry...............

trany problem

Posted by dave on 1/30/2002 at 21:40:32 IP: 142.177.68.36 HELP ! l Started tractor up tonight and went to shift,no go gear shift wouldn't budge took off cover and both slide rails feel seized but was working fine yesterday.. Any suggestion how to free them up without tearing tractor apart.. thks dave

Re: trany problem

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/31/2002 at 06:58:13 IP: 209.163.7.68 I need more info. What model tractor are you asking about? Larry..............

tranny problem

Posted by dave on 1/31/2002 at 19:01:27 IP: 142.177.93.171 i have a 58 cockshutt 540 sitting in seat with cover off and below right knee are two shafts each with 2 indents. i'm guessing for each gear. these shafts seem to be jammed with no movement...i tryed jacking tractor up but only can move wheelback and fourth a small bit... i can start tractor and it seems in neutral. Still have movement on high low shaft,slideing easyly...any ideas on how to free up gears thanks again dave

Re: tranny problem

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/1/2002 at 07:02:29 IP: 209.163.7.55 I'm not familiar with a 540 cockshutt transmission, but it sounds like both shafts are in gear. They should be disengaged (put in neutral position) then the gears should free up. It sounds like the hi-lo shaft is in neutral. Then your engine wouldn't turn the transmission.

Re: tranny problem

Posted by dave on 2/1/2002 at 19:20:42 IP: 142.177.78.30 thanks it's been 2 night of fiddling in 20 below wind chill but i'm going to drain it sat and get a good look see.

Re: tranny problem

Posted by dave on 2/2/2002 at 06:48:34 IP: 142.177.93.240 Thanks again Larry, Off i went with my pipe heater and hair dryer and drain my tranny.I jacked up one wheel and rocked it back and for, slightly wigggling on each shifter shaft and after a min all freed up.I'm just in thawing out abit before i go and look for any metal pieces that might have been hanging around in that frothy soup..If all is well i might be tackling the thrre snowfalls now on my driveway. I went through all your archives and think it's a wealth of info along with mess. board on yesterdays tractors...All u guys are great. I'm sure i'll be back :} dave

Re: tranny problem

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/3/2002 at 23:57:06 IP: 209.163.7.82 Your problem might be that you had ice in the bottom of the tranny. That will make it so you can't move the gears. Get that thing in and clean it out and put fresh grease in it. Then put on a new gear shift boot if it is cracked and letting water get down in there. Glad you enjoy the website. We enjoy helping all you Oliver Guys if we can. Larry...........

Re: tranny problem

Posted by Matt on 2/6/2002 at 23:22:13 IP: 216.65.170.251 The samething happened to me a month ago. Its amazing what a little water can do,I thought the brakes froze up,but the colder It became the less the wheels rocked back and forth pointing out the problem.

880 clutch

Posted by ed on 1/31/2002 at 12:57:56 IP: 63.157.52.202 hi larry, i have a 880 deisel the problem is this my guy is putting in a new clutch,but he is now saying that it is not going to give us the travel in the pedal needed to engauge the clutch , he thinks that someone has taken to much of the flywheel in the past. what we need to know is the thicknenss of the fly wheel from the factory to measure it aganist what is now, to see if his guess is right,this is the first step in the process, he also thinks that someone may have put in the wrong preassure plate to begin with. larry any help or comment would be welcome sir...thank you in advance.......ed

Re: 880 clutch

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/1/2002 at 07:45:49 IP: 209.163.7.95 Looking at thre flywheel surface where the clutch contacts the flywheel, the distance to the surface where the pilot hub contacts the flywheel is 1 and three fourths inches. Larry...............

Re: 880 clutch

Posted by ed on 2/4/2002 at 08:29:16 IP: 63.157.49.43 thank you...ed

Oliver 88 Diesel

Posted by Michael on 1/31/2002 at 12:12:55 IP: 158.52.254.238 Hi Larry, I have a 88 diesel I just picked up. It is hard starting, have to spray wd 40or starting fluid in it . Do you have any ideas as to the problem, rings, pump,injectors where should i start to look? Thanks, Michael

Re: Oliver 88 Diesel

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/31/2002 at 19:01:26 IP: 209.163.7.16 First of all,listen to the exhaust when you are cranking it. If you hear valves leaking, give it a valve job. If you have the head off, you will be able to see how much wear you have in the cylinders. The most common problem for hard starting is poor compression. The next leading cause, is slow cranking speed. Then, weak injection pump and injectors. If you have to remove the cylinder head for a valve job, pull the injectors and have them reset and checked. Also check to be sure the energy cells in the cylinder head are not plugged. If very much wear is noted in the cylinders, it's going to be a hard starting engine until it has new sleeves and pistons. You shouldn't have more than .004 taper in the engine cylinders. Larry..........

Re: Oliver 88 Diesel

Posted by Michael Rock on 2/1/2002 at 07:16:11 IP: 158.52.254.237 Larry, Thanks so much for the information. Also would you know who would be a good one to work on the injectors? Thanks again, Michael

Re: Oliver 88 Diesel

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/2/2002 at 05:43:04 IP: 209.163.7.99 Send us an email and tell us your location. There is a place right here in Estherville that can do it. Larry................

Oliver 99

Posted by Ken Savener on 1/31/2002 at 11:52:30 IP: 128.242.4.59 Did the Oviver 99 & super 99 have only a 6 cyl. or 3 cyl. GM engine? I had someone tell me they had a 4 cyl. in theirs.

Re: Oliver 99

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/31/2002 at 18:54:02 IP: 209.163.7.16 The Super 99's were built with either 6 cylinder Waukesha or the 3 cylinder Detroit Diesel (GM). However, there is a S99 that I know of that has a 471 Detroit Diesel. It wasn't built that way at the factory but changed after market. The 99 first started with a 4 cylinder Waukesha in the late 30's and they were built that way until the end of 1952. Then the 99 changed to a 6 cylinder Waukesha and these were built for a little over a year. Approx. 1000 of these were built. Actually, they used the same trans. as the old 4 cyl. tractor had. Then Oliver started building the S99 with the 6 speed trans. and the same Waukesha 6 cyl. engine. Also at this time, you had the option of ordering the GM (or Detroit 371) for an extra $1500. Larry.........

oliver 60

Posted by terry on 1/30/2002 at 20:31:02 IP: 4.54.141.211 I would like to know where I can get a rebuild kit for a Oliver 60 engine. Thank you.

Re: oliver 60

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/31/2002 at 06:54:17 IP: 209.163.7.68 Try Korves Bros. parts@korvesoliver.com or 618-939-6681. Larry..............

Hydraulics

Posted by Tom Hesse on 1/30/2002 at 18:39:59 IP: 216.43.146.189 I have a 770 Oliver with Hydra-Lectric and need to connect a single acting cylinder. I read the manual and know I need a momentary restrictor swivel assembly, what I don't know is where to aquire one. I don't know of any Oliver dealers near me. Thanks Tom Hesse

Re: Hydraulics

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/31/2002 at 06:51:06 IP: 209.163.7.68 I have one. It will be $30 plus the shipping. Email your address to me and I can tell you what the shipping will be. Larry...........

1855,1755 values &which 1

Posted by DuaneW OH on 1/30/2002 at 07:47:07 IP: 12.100.121.94 Hi Larry, Its nice to know where to go and find someone with experience on the Olivers. Thanks for time & effort. I am looking at a 1971 1855 w/3200 hrs on it, extreamly clean tractor, asking price 9500. Also looking at 1974 1755 w/3500 hrs, all weather cab, again very clean, asking 7900. is the 1755 a capable tractor, or to heavy for its hp? Also, the 1855 has the oil cooler lines coming out from under the oil filter. I understand this was part of the update program, correct? but how can you tell if insides have been updated w/out teardown, or if someone just added oil cooler? Sorry about the long windedness...! And again, Thanks for your help. Duane

Re: 1855,1755 values &which 1

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/30/2002 at 18:25:03 IP: 209.163.7.47 I think the 1755 probably has a better reputation than the 1855 and it has adequate power. The 1755 will have 85 hp. If the 1855 has an oil cooler, it has been upgraded as the block is different. One thing to keep in mind with these tractors is to not over fuel the engine. It is very important to make sure they are running at the specified hp for that model. Larry......

Re: 1855,1755 values &which 1

Posted by DuaneW OH on 2/1/2002 at 06:28:41 IP: 12.100.121.94 Thanks Larry, I just wasn't sure if oil cooler meant updated or not, sounds like it does. Appreciate your time.. Duane.

pto problem oliver 2255

Posted by ray pattemore on 1/29/2002 at 22:18:18 IP: 204.187.144.2 when I apply the brakes under load the pto will disengage and hydraulic oil is going into the trani the priority valve seems to be ok the brakes work fine am at a loss ray

Re: pto problem oliver 2255

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/30/2002 at 06:32:14 IP: 209.163.7.6 It sounds like the oil is leaking through somewhere in the PTO assembly to the transmission. I would disconnect the oil lines that go from the PTO to the hydraulic and plug them so I could determine if this is where the leak is. If the oil is going through the PTO, you are going to have to remove the PTO unit and have it resealed. You should get a shop manual to study before you try to remove the PTO unit. You may want to take the unit to a dealer who has the proper equipment to service it. However, a shop manual will help you decide if you can do it yourself or not. I have a PTO control valve for that unit if you need it you can email me. I doubt if you need it. Larry.........

Re: pto problem oliver 2255

Posted by ray pattemore on 1/30/2002 at 08:51:05 IP: 204.187.144.2 I hear what you are saying but the pto only kicks out of gear when I apply the brakes and thats the puzzler thankyou for such a quick reply ray

Re: pto problem oliver 2255

Posted by Larry Wolfe on 1/30/2002 at 13:04:44 IP: 208.10.124.32 The brakes and pto operate on a much lowered preasure and flow than the rest of the hydrolic system.If the pto is leaking most of this flow but holding just enough to work,working the brakes takes away too much flow and the pto stops.

super 55

Posted by Ardy on 1/29/2002 at 21:22:27 IP: 64.12.103.32 Hello Mr.Harsin. I have a 55 oliver i am replacing the pto clutch in. I would like to take the drum off to replace the the oil seal behind it,but i can't find a spanner wrench. would you know where i could find one, or of some way to remove this nut. I hope to here from you. Thanks Ardy cassem.

Re: super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/30/2002 at 06:21:48 IP: 209.163.7.6 You may have to make yourself a wrench. Owatonna Tool Co. in Owatnna MN makes a wrench: ED3434 spanner wrench. You may be able to get one from them. To make one, take a piece of pipe and fabricate the lugs onto it to fit the nut. The nut is a right hand thread. That nut is supposed to be staked in 3 places and when it was installed, it was torqued to 150 ft. lbs. Larry..........

Re: super 55

Posted by Ardy on 2/1/2002 at 07:33:04 IP: 64.12.103.183 Thanks for your answer Larry. I have a question about the pto clutch? How much play should there be in the release collar bearing? Could you also recomend a good source for a shop manual, and pto clutch parts? thanks Ardy.

Re: super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/1/2002 at 18:46:14 IP: 209.163.7.35 There should be very little play if any. However, if it doesn't cause an adverse effect to the clutch, I wouldn't bother with it. But if it does effect the clutch, you'll have to replace the throw out bearing. (collar bearing) You can get an I&T Shop Manual from Jensales 800-443-0625. You can get PTO clutch parts from Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224 or Korves Bros. at korves@htc.net. Larry..........

Re: super 55

Posted by Ardy on 2/5/2002 at 20:17:55 IP: 152.163.213.73 Larry thanks for telling me about O'brien CO. I ordered my pto clutch parts today. I am also making a wrench to remove that spanner nut off the clutch spider hub. I called Owatonna tool (now FPX corp)they were not able to cross reference the number to look it up,so I said heck with it. Can you recomend a type of used loader to look for? Thanks again Ardy.

Re: super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 2/7/2002 at 07:57:21 IP: 209.163.7.52 There are different kinds that will fit it. An Oliver 1510 will fit it. Loaders that will fit the 8 N Fords will fit it. They are Superior or Freeman or Davis maybe others. There are lots of choices. Larry........

550 charging

Posted by rwh on 1/29/2002 at 16:50:38 IP: 199.172.45.60 My 550 gas with positive ground and a generator seems to have stopped charging. The amp light comes on and gets brighter as rpm increase. I changed the fan belt and got it good and tight, but no improvement. What's the next step? Is there a likely short anywhere (I just put in a new wire harness), or should I pull the generator and take it to a shop?

Re: 550 charging

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/29/2002 at 19:42:34 IP: 209.163.7.25 Pull the generator and take it to a shop. I suspect it just needs to be cleaned up and possibly a new set of brushes. Larry.............

1255 oliver

Posted by Arley Rankin on 1/29/2002 at 13:42:37 IP: 63.228.131.249 I just bought a 1255 oliver. I do not know the yaer but it has a blade and rippers on the back. It is four wheel drive and has 6 forward, and 2 reverse speeds. I need a power steering pump for it ( it is missing ). Also the back blade senitivity lever must remain in the forward position as it mades a very harsh squeel noise when moved. Any suggustions? Thanks, Arley Rankin

Re: 1255 oliver

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/29/2002 at 19:40:27 IP: 209.163.7.25 Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

oliver 77 casting numbers

Posted by Matt on 1/28/2002 at 21:16:47 IP: 205.160.215.27 I am trying to decide if an engine will fit in my 1949 oliver 77. The engine I want to put in my tractor has block casting number of 185220B and My current block (cracked) is 185220 Is there any difference in the blocks? the one I want to put on is currently on a Kohler generator, the model is a 185 GL 3.5 bore 3.75 stroke. Thanks in advance.

Re: oliver 77 casting numbers

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/28/2002 at 21:44:43 IP: 209.163.7.56 I am pretty sure it will work. The numbers you are giving are Waukesha numbers. Larry.............

oliver 60. serial # STD EX 1

Posted by mark christianson on 1/28/2002 at 18:40:12 IP: 205.188.192.177 WOULD LIKE ANY HELP ON GETTING PARTS FOR THIS TRACTOR. NEEDS SIDE PANELS , CARB KIT, AND SOME TCL. AND ANY INFO ON ORIGNAL COLOR OF TRACTOR, THIS ONE SEEMS TO BE RED, WITH A LITTLE GREEN. I WILL TAKE ANY INFO ON TRACTOR, HE"S BEEN IN THE FAMILY FOR ABOUT 40 YEARS .. AND HASNT RUN FOR HE PAST 25 , THANKS GUYS AND GALS FOR ANY HELP MARK CHRISTIANSON HOLMEN, WI. 54636

Re: oliver 60. serial # STD EX 1

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/28/2002 at 21:41:03 IP: 209.163.7.56 I don't know. Is this the serial number on the plate on the left side of the engine? The begining serial number for 60 Standards is 410001. This may be an Experimental model. The regular market ones were painted green Martin Senour 99L-11511. You can get side panels from Richard Lynch at 937-456-6686. You can get a carb kit from Tom at O'Brien Co Impl 800-320-6224. Larry ..........

1946 70 std.

Posted by Dennis Boyd on 1/27/2002 at 09:35:38 IP: 216.248.92.54 Larry I am working on restoring an old 70 and am needing a piston and sleeve as one of the pistons is broke. I was wondering if you would have one available. I am located just out side of Tracy Iowa. Thanks

Re: 1946 70 std.

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/27/2002 at 21:43:06 IP: 209.163.7.30 I don't have a sleeve. Try Doug Johnson at Applington IA at: dougolpt@cnsinternet.com Or try Glen Brink at Farragut IA at: 712-385-8540 Larry.............

oliver 1850

Posted by briggs cattle co on 1/25/2002 at 17:16:43 IP: 208.10.193.178 I recently purchacded an 1850 diesel and when it run at higher rpm's it has a miss followed by a puff of smoke there is also oil leaking out of the the manifold i don't think the motor is all worn out though because it seems to have plenty of power and starts like a champ in cold weather.thank you

Re: oliver 1850

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/26/2002 at 06:31:10 IP: 209.163.7.37 It can be one of two things. The first thing to check is what cylinder the oil is coming out of. Then pull that injector and check it. If the injector checks out o.k., most likely you have some reason for poor compression on that particular cylinder. Larry.......

Re: oliver 1850

Posted by briggs cattle co on 1/25/2002 at 19:29:24 IP: 208.10.193.178 it also has a little blow by what do you think i should look for or do thank you

Re: oliver 1850

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/26/2002 at 06:33:42 IP: 209.163.7.37 That one cylinder may have stuck rings or a broken ring or scored piston or something. Larry............

Re: oliver 1850

Posted by briggscattleco on 1/27/2002 at 09:40:28 IP: 209.130.160.83 thank you for the information i was wondering why when i put it under a little load it dosent miss or misses very little thanks agine for the info

pto

Posted by Wade Stimpson on 1/24/2002 at 15:43:45 IP: 216.12.0.28 I just finished installing a complete rebuilt engine in an Oliver 1800 gas.However, now I cant get the pto lever to activate/deactivate. The pto is in "on" position but lever will no move it "off". I am also getting some pto noise. Any suggestions other than remove unit?

Re: pto

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/24/2002 at 22:41:15 IP: 209.163.7.75 I think you are going to have to remove the unit and see what happened. You should have a shop manual before attempting to repair it. You can get an I&T Shop Manual from Jensales 800-443-0625. Larry...........

oliver 2655

Posted by Brent Dumais on 1/24/2002 at 11:47:22 IP: 216.124.98.120 larry... what, if anything, can you tell me about oliver's biggest tractor? specs, HP, prices, etc....thanks.... brent

Re: oliver 2655

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/24/2002 at 22:36:46 IP: 209.163.7.75 The 2655 is identical to the Minneapolis-Moline A4T. It was built only in 1971. It has a 4 and 5/8 by 5 inch bore and stroke. At 2200 RPM it delivered 139 hp, but the turbo charged model put out 151 hp. It was priced at about $15,000. It weighed over 17,000 lbs. Larry.......

Re: oliver 2655

Posted by Larry Wolfe on 1/25/2002 at 11:25:19 IP: 208.10.124.168 I have one if you want to know more.In 1977 the way of rateing HP changed and the HP on the 2655 was changed to 147 on the pto.Because you sit so high you get alot of side to side wipping when you drive it.The two wheel drives are much better rideing and starting.The hydrolic pump has no bypass valve for starting like the 2-155,and the 2655 has a big power steering pump too.All of thease pumps try to lockup and stop you from cranking the engine.Parts are getting hard to come by too.Used mine this past year when the 2-105 went down.

Oliver MFWD

Posted by Mike on 1/24/2002 at 11:45:03 IP: 63.27.120.159 What would be involved in installing a Oliver MFWD on a 2255? Is there any additional parts to install the transfer case and the Front Assist axle to the tractor. I know that these clark front ends are expensive to repair. What are some major things that I should look at to make sure that I don't get a front end that is pure junk? Especially if the tractor doesn't run or the front axle is removed from the tractor. Any advise or ideas will be appreciated.

Re: Oliver MFWD

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/24/2002 at 22:30:15 IP: 209.163.7.75 You are going to have to make the gear ratios are correct. Make sure the drop box and differential are all o.k. Your tractor is going to have to be eqipped with a different drive pinion to run the drop box. It will have to be completely dismantled to put that in the tractor. I think it will be more work than it is worth. In addition to everything else, the front drive shafts that bend when you turn could be bad and your outside planetarys could be bad etc. I wouldn't reccommend doing it. Larry...

5' foot Oliver bushHog

Posted by Johnny Goodwin on 1/23/2002 at 22:46:32 IP: 63.16.96.130 I have a 5,foot bushHog with the name oliver on the side. Can not read model # can you tell me what brand of blades might fit? 2 swinging blades.

Re: 5' foot Oliver bushHog

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/24/2002 at 07:12:20 IP: 209.163.7.52 I don't know. Contact Mary Ann at Oliver Headquarters. She may be able to help you. hpocacc@fiai.net Larry.............

1850oilpressure

Posted by koop on 1/21/2002 at 22:27:45 IP: 216.172.176.203 have an 1850 gas it has new rings,pistons, bearings,cam cam bearings and a new oil pump but it still only has 10# of oil pressure hot or cold i checked bearing clearance it is ok.I put new oil pressure guage on but still only 10# of pressure. any help would be apprieciated.

Re: 1850oilpressure

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/22/2002 at 06:23:34 IP: 209.163.7.87 At the right front corner of the engine block, there is a pressure regulating valve. I suspect it is stuck open. Remove the plug and pull the spring out. Take a long punch and tap it in gently and see if it will move inward. You may have to remove this plunger and clean it if it acts sticky. You may not have to do this, but to remove, take a fine thread tap and screw it in with your fingers just to catch it so you can remove the plunger. If this does not help, your tractor may have a relief valve incorporated in the oil filter base. Then you would have to do the same thing there. Are you sure that all of the main bearing halves are installed in the engine? Larry.......

Super 55 3pt.

Posted by Keith on 1/21/2002 at 19:37:01 IP: 216.158.64.43 Larry, This is a follow up from the question I had about the 55 leveling gearbox. I was looking in a couple aftermarket catologs and noticed that one of the Fergeson grear boxes look almost identical to the Oliver. Is the a possiblity that Oliver may have used one of theirs on the '54 model year? just wondering if it would be worth ordering it? When we broke down the parts for it, the gears even looked like the Olivers. Thanks again in advance.

Re: Super 55 3pt.

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/22/2002 at 06:14:29 IP: 209.163.7.87 I think that it will be close enough that it will be fine. Larry............

super 55

Posted by Brian on 1/20/2002 at 16:31:52 IP: 4.4.84.82 Hi Larry, I have a 1954 super 55 oliver. The pto seal, both outside axle seals,and main transmission shaft seals all leak bad.The person I had bought it from had ran it low on oil and the trans. makes a lot of noise when in any gear an also when idling. What could be the problem ? Main carrier bearings. Where can I get seals,top gasket to trans. and what ever parts I need to fix trans. noise. Also what weight gear oil do I need to put in trans.

Re: super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/21/2002 at 07:36:34 IP: 209.163.7.11 The noise is probably made by worn bearings. For parts, contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Use 80-90 Transmission grease. Larry

Super 55

Posted by Terry Baxter on 1/20/2002 at 06:04:59 IP: 67.211.81.139 I'm looking for a shop manual for the Super 55. Thanks

Re: Super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/21/2002 at 07:47:07 IP: 209.163.7.11 You can get a shop manual from Oliver Hdq. in Charles City. Contact Mary Ann at email: hpocacc@fiai.net or you can get IT Manual # O-11 from JENSALES INC. at 800-443-0625. It may be cheaper. Larry........

Oil Seal Leak

Posted by Bob Adamson on 1/18/2002 at 19:27:32 IP: 66.181.128.14 Hello Larry- Would you have any idea what to do with the front oil seal on a 66... I have replaced the seal and it still leaks, I took it apart a second time, and everything looks ok to me.

Re: Oil Seal Leak

Posted by curt on 1/29/2002 at 09:20:06 IP: 63.140.120.97 had the same prob with my 88 new replacement cork and felt did not seal it up at all......... had to get a sleve to go over the crank and an new rubber oilseal to fit that size. Then you grind out the front cover to the o.d. of the seal and JB weld it in there so that it aligns with the crank. i actually used 2 seals so that the outer one would act as a dust shield and the inner as the seal. Works great now.......email me if you have questions Curt

Re: Oil Seal Leak

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/19/2002 at 06:16:34 IP: 209.163.7.24 The seal may be hanging up or binding where it is supposed to slide on the crankshaft pulley, which then causes it not to seal against the timing cover. I'm assuming your timing cover is in good condition where the seal runs. You will have to use some emery cloth to fit the seal over the pulley hub. Make sure the crankshaft does not have excessive endplay. To fix this, you will need a new thrust bearing on the center main. Larry..........

radiator shutter

Posted by Herbert on 1/18/2002 at 15:31:40 IP: 207.4.45.104 I'm looking for a radiator shutter for a 1948 70RC if there is such an animal. I also need info on the proper seat. I only have the frame.

Re: radiator shutter

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/18/2002 at 18:01:03 IP: 209.163.7.99 I don't know where you'd find a radiator shutter. You could check with Doug Johnson at 319-347-6332. If you are asking what the seat should look like, you should get an Oliver 70 Parts Manual from Mary Ann at hpocacc@fiai.net. If you are asking if I have one for sale, the only one I have is a Monroe aftermarket seat. Larry................

carb &stuck clutch plate

Posted by chris pileski on 1/18/2002 at 13:25:56 IP: 156.63.252.18 dear sir, i was given my father in law's old 1963 Oliver 770. i love this tractor and i want to get it back into good condition. my two biggest sticking points (i'm not really mechanically inclined) is the carburetor and a stuck clutch. first, the carb has no "load jet" on the bottom of the Marvel TSX 755. is this essential? i notice when i drag the plow i don't get much power at all and the engine does some nasty backfiring. and recently, the clutch plate seems to be stuck. i can't get the tractor in gear while it's running. any hints on unsticking it? thanks

Re: carb &stuck clutch plate

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/18/2002 at 17:55:38 IP: 209.163.7.99 Yes, the load-jet is essential. You can get this part from Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Put the tractor in gear first and then start the engine and see if that breaks the clutch loose. If this doesn't do it, you are going to have to take it apart. Your power problem when plowing could be dirty or stale fuel or a dirty fuel strainer. Do you have an Operator's Manual? There is a lot of good info in them. Tom may have one of those also or you can get one from Mary Ann at Oliver Hdq. hpocacc@fiai.net. Larry............

Re: carb &stuck clutch plate

Posted by chris pileski on 1/23/2002 at 06:56:51 IP: 156.63.252.18 larry, thanks so much for your reply. i've read almost all of your archived Q & A stuff and i love it. i'm really new to this tractor stuff, i wish i had someone like you right next door. anyway, yeah, it could be dirty or stale fuel, i don't use the tractor much, i'll drain and try new stuff. yes, i do have a complete manual, i've read it cover to cover many times, i'll consult that again. i'll also give tom a call, sometimes i think i'd like to replace the whole carb. my father in law didn't take real good care of this tractor. when i got it, half the bowl was filled with water. i don't hold much hope in unsticking the clutch, but i'll give your remedy a try. thanks again.

1967 oliver 1250 gas

Posted by mark bohne on 1/17/2002 at 22:13:44 IP: 63.254.247.2 am new hpoca member restoring this utility tractor. have split tractor to pull clutch to get bad disc for drive, disc and surfaces on pto disc appear not used much,have resurfaced plates and found out throw out bearing is $210!! also 3 small arms to push disc are not quite the way it says in manual---they will not come apart as pins cannot be taken out as they are in blind holes--any way what should i be paying attention to putting it bach together as this is not a good area to get at later? thanks

Re: 1967 oliver 1250 gas

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/18/2002 at 07:12:41 IP: 209.163.7.17 I don't know. This is a Fiat tractor and I havn't worked on them. There are very few of them in this area. Larry.................

1855 Oliver

Posted by Marlon Garrett on 1/17/2002 at 20:38:14 IP: 63.57.31.18 Larry, Thank you and Shep for the info on the Cummins Conversion. My Father-in-law and I have another question. Is it possible to connect the front half of an 1800 to the back half of an 1855? There is an auction coming up that has an 1800 with the Cummins conversion. I really appreciate your time in answering my questions. Thank you Marlon

Re: 1855 Oliver

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/17/2002 at 21:42:36 IP: 209.163.7.16 I think that will work. Larry

1855 Cummins conversion Kit

Posted by Marlon Garrett on 1/16/2002 at 22:11:54 IP: 63.57.31.162 My Father-in-law has an 1855 with the recomended "hole from the connecting rod in the block" (ha ha). He told me he seen an add in a farm magazine in the early 1980's for a cummins conversion kit. Have you heard of this kit? Is it still available? Maybe, where could we get info on this kit? I appreciate any help. Sincerely, Thank you.

Re: 1855 Cummins conversion Kit

Posted by Shep on 1/17/2002 at 07:59:51 IP: 216.76.116.104 I have done several of these conversions on 1855 and 1850's including this 1850 of mine. It really makes a nice tractor when you get it finished. If you have questions or need help let me know.

Re: 1855 Cummins conversion Kit

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/17/2002 at 09:12:00 IP: 209.163.7.86 Hi Shep! We think that is one beautiful tractor. Thanks for the input. Larry and Sandy.

Re: 1855 Cummins conversion Kit

Posted by Shep on 1/17/2002 at 11:16:08 IP: 216.76.116.104 Thanks Larry, that conversion cost me about $7,000 to do to that tractor and it was worth every doller to do it. Really changed the way that tractor runs. I have done this conversion for other people before and the price to do one is about $8,000 to $9,000 depending on the price of the engine you want and what else has to be done. The 1850 and the other 50 series tractors are by far the easiest and the cheapest to convert, but most people want to convert the 1855 and 1955 Waukeshas out of their tractors. Here is another one that I just finished converting. Enjoy...

Re: 1855 Cummins conversion Kit

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/17/2002 at 23:39:17 IP: 209.163.7.90 Yes. It is available. Contact Cummins and they will give you the location of the dealer who can do it. Or contact your AGCO Dealer, he will have the information. Larry.............

Oliver 1900's

Posted by David Hopkins on 1/16/2002 at 16:22:27 IP: 68.47.88.144 Mr. Harsin, I have been looking for an Oliver 1900 A series. I've found a couple, but have a question. I have a picture of a 1900 B that have stickers on the hood that have Oliver 1900 on them and the guy says it's a B series. I found a 1900 A (I think) and it has the emblems on the hood. My question is which way did Oliver mark the first 1900's? Did they use both stickers and emblems in 1960? Thank you for your help, David

Re: Oliver 1900's

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/16/2002 at 18:27:03 IP: 209.163.7.56 I was always of the opinion that the 1900A was the checkerboard with the checkerboard decal on the side of the hood. However, I have a 1900A sitting here in my yard and it has decals like a 1900B would have. You will have to go by the serial number. 1900A's were built 1960 thru 1962. The ending serial number for the A series is 124372. Larry.............

1650 Front Wheels

Posted by Richard on 1/15/2002 at 20:22:49 IP: 32.100.31.53 Larry, what is the largest tire and rim I can put on my old style, wide front end 1650? I would like to put 9.50L x 15" tires on some 8"x15" rims. Have you done this? Any recommendations?

Re: 1650 Front Wheels

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/15/2002 at 22:18:50 IP: 209.163.7.65 I don't reccommend using tires that large. It is hard on spindles and bearings. A 7.5 x 16 will work o.k. and handle a pretty good load. This is as big as I would reccommend. Larry...........

Super 55

Posted by Pete on 1/15/2002 at 17:19:17 IP: 158.252.65.39 Is it possible to add power steering to a Super 55? If so, where are parts available and what would the parts cost? Thanks

Re: Super 55

Posted by Mark on 1/15/2002 at 20:14:41 IP: 216.93.70.142 It's possible to add factory power steering to a 55, but you may go broke doing it. The parts are in high demand. I am working on an aftermarket power steering setup for these tractors, but it might be another year or two before I have it all done. Good luck.

Re: Super 55

Posted by Pete on 1/15/2002 at 20:37:18 IP: 168.191.71.217 Thanks for the info. Keep working on a kit. My arms may be tired by the time you have one. Pete Re: Super 55

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/15/2002 at 22:15:58 IP: 209.163.7.65 You will have to find a 550 with power steering that is being salvaged. You can check with Tim Smith at 330-832-9792. It is best to call him in the evenings. Good Luck! Larry............

880

Posted by Larry U on 1/14/2002 at 16:33:40 IP: 65.165.88.60 If the brake problem is studs or bull pinion, is this a spendy fix or can it be repaired fairly reasonable or at all. What would the costs be for a repair such as this ?

Re: 880

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/14/2002 at 22:36:20 IP: 209.163.7.53 It is simply a matter of tightening the studs to stop the oil leakage and probably a $15 seal on the bull pinion. Possibly a soft plug on the end of the bull pinion - $2. It will probably take a couple of hours labor. Larry..............

88 diesel

Posted by Glen on 1/14/2002 at 13:01:31 IP: 205.200.254.166 hi Larry nice site I have a 88 diesel and i'm getting water into the oil. I drained the coolant down below the head to make sure it wasn't the head leaking and then let it sit checked latter and the was new water in the oil. A friend said it is common for the O rings on the sleeves to go. what do you think and if that is the most likely cause how hard is it to fix? thanks! Glen

Re: 88 diesel

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/14/2002 at 22:32:36 IP: 209.163.7.53 Since you've drained the water down, the next most logical thing to check is the "O" rings on the bottom of the sleeves. Remove the oil pan and you should be able to observe where the water is coming from. If that is what it is, you'll have to remove the cylinder head. You can remove the sleeve with the piston in it and put on new rings and reinstall it. Larry........

55 three point

Posted by Keith on 1/14/2002 at 11:20:24 IP: 216.158.64.43 Larry, The leveling arm gearbox on my 55 was froze up. took it apart and the gears are shot. Any ideas on where to find these? If not, is there a aftermarket leveling arm that will do the job?

Re: 55 three point

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/14/2002 at 22:27:54 IP: 209.163.7.53 I think you might still be able to get them through AGCO. Call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry....

Re: 55 three point

Posted by Mark on 1/15/2002 at 20:12:37 IP: 216.93.70.142 I got a reproduction one from Maibach tractor in Creston, OH. It was very nice. I just painted it green and away I went. The parts to rebuild the original are still available, but the cost will kill you. The copy was $75 or so complete.

Re: 55 three point

Posted by Keith on 1/21/2002 at 19:54:50 IP: 216.158.64.43 Mark, sounds great but I understand that I beat them out on buying my parts tractor. I'm afraid they would jack the price up on me. Their buyer even acted like he knew me to the guy I bought the tractor from. I have bought parts from them, but that burned by backside a bit. My AGCO guy said the parts are no longer available. he is pretty good about coming up with parts for me. All I really need is the pinion gear.

880

Posted by Larry Umberger on 1/13/2002 at 20:52:10 IP: 65.165.90.196 I'm looking at an 880 to buy, how do you repair the case where the 3 point bolts to the case under the tractor or is it repairable?, the outside bolts are not holding anything and the 2 inside bolts are carrying the weight also there is oil dripping out right brake housing, is this a leaking seal ? and if it is, how much trouble to repair ? How much does this tractor weigh ? it has wfe, 3 point, adjustable wheels, no wheel weights but tires are loaded. Thanks in advance Larry U

Re: 880

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/14/2002 at 06:13:34 IP: 209.163.7.72 I think you could repair that using Helicoil. You can get it at the hardware store or your automotive supply store. It is probably a leaking seal on the right brake. It is not difficult to replace. There are 2 other possibilities for leakage on the brakes, however. The attaching studs for the brake housing and the expansion plug in the end of the bull pinion. The tractor will probably weigh 6500 lbs with the 3 pt. and fluid in tires. Larry.......

Super 55 carb

Posted by Mark on 1/13/2002 at 19:55:22 IP: 64.12.104.43 Larry: What is the best method for adjusting a Super 55 carburetor? It is a Marvel-Schebler TSX603. I assume the large needle valve is the main and the smaller nedle on the side is the idle. I have the Idle screwed in all of the way and it still is running rich. Do I need a new needles and jets? Thanks. Mark

Re: Super 55 carb

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/14/2002 at 06:05:26 IP: 209.163.7.72 You are correct in assuming that the large needle is for the load jet and the small needle is for the idle. Before attempting to adjust the carb, check to make sure the choke is working properly. Then, with the engine not running, adjust the load screw to approx l and a half to 2 turns open and idle screw half a turn open. Then start the engine and run it at full throttle and adjust the load needle until the engine begins to starve. Then back the load needle out til the engine runs best. Then you can idle the engine down to slow idle and adjust the idle mixture. Out on the idle mixture should make it run leaner. I doubt if you need new needles and jets. If this doesn't work, take carb apart and clean and inspect it. Larry.......

cluster gauge

Posted by matt on 1/13/2002 at 10:48:08 IP: 208.140.58.189 Larry, I have a oliver 550 got it 6 months ago. It needed new gauges and wiring I have a book to tell how to wire it and I did as the book said I can't get the cluster gauge to work. the 2 idiot lights yes the temp and fuel no. It has a generator any suggetions. 1958 thanks

Re: cluster gauge

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 18:00:16 IP: 209.163.7.94 You'll have to make sure that the sending units are good. If the sending units are bad, your gauge won't work. Both senders make the gauges work by grounding so you can check both gauges by simply grounding the sender side of the gauge. Then you will know what you need. Larry......

oliver combine

Posted by nick on 1/13/2002 at 10:08:49 IP: 205.188.198.59 I would like to know if anyone has any information on a oliver model 25 combine. what are they worth? Is $100 a good deal. Thank You

Re: oliver combine

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:54:09 IP: 209.163.7.94 If you have any use for it at all, $100 is a bargin. You can get an Operator's Manual and a Parts Book from Mary Ann Townsend at hpocacc@fiai.net Larry.............

550 clutch

Posted by barry on 1/13/2002 at 00:14:26 IP: 209.214.147.124 Hi Larry, I'm trying to find a new clutch for my Oliver 550. Any help would be appreciated.

Re: 550 clutch

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:50:39 IP: 209.163.7.94 Contact Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224 Larry............

Super 99

Posted by Jeff Pieper on 1/12/2002 at 00:45:39 IP: 63.172.254.56 I am interested in restoring my first tractor and I love the looks and sound of the olivers super 99's three cylynder detroit. I don't know where to begin looking for one and I need help. Maybe it is a lost cause , but if you can help let me know. Thanks, Jeff Pieper.

Re: Super 99

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:47:31 IP: 209.163.7.94 There is usually one advertised in Antique Power Magazine if you can get a copy of that. Their Circulation Dept. Phone is: 888-760-8108. You could check with Arnold Meyer. He might have one. He has gone south and will be home again after Feb. first. 507-372-7788 Everyone wants one of these tractors. Larry..........

Re: Super 99

Posted by f y i on 1/29/2002 at 09:13:21 IP: 63.140.120.97 if you do locate and purchase one of the 99 D get with Chester Higginbothom of Paris, IL or contact him through Great Heart Seeds of Paris, IL he has one restored and knows it inside and out and loves to talk about it lots of free knowledge from him good luck

1950 cockshutt

Posted by keith grimm on 1/10/2002 at 22:23:03 IP: 207.177.13.119 my 1967 1950 cockshutt with a 4-53 GM moter runs at 2600RPMs. This moter sounds nice! I think it would sound even better at higher RPM,say around 3000RPM. What would be the best way to do this? Would this be hard on this type of moter? How many 1950 cockshutt's were made? How much HP can you get out of these? I enjoyed the tour of oliver tractors on your farm! Thanks Larry!

Re: 1950 cockshutt

Posted by Lee on 2/1/2002 at 21:39:26 IP: 208.189.21.136 If you put to many washers behind the governor spring you will have a fast idle. The one I used to pull we put the 3000 rpm wts in the governor.

Re: 1950 cockshutt

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:41:40 IP: 209.163.7.94 You will have to buy a shim washer or make one to put behind the governor spring in the governor housing. I believe I would talk to a Detroit Diesel Service Man before I'd do this. It used to be Hickland Diesel in Des Moines. It may have changed. Larry.......

Where can I get parts

Posted by Ryan Schmidt on 1/10/2002 at 19:41:46 IP: 205.188.199.37 Hello Larry What I have is an Oliver Crawler dozer. Its a B6sH and the # is 12c606, and the engine # is 1724855, It has a 6 cylinder gas engine. I have looked on the web for parts, but have not had much luck. The engine runs good and has good oil psi, I am looking for a used or new Intake/exhaust manifold. Also on the top of the head it has a hair line crack in it, can that be fixed buy getting it welded? I got the oliver for free so I don't mind spending $ to get it running good. Also how was this dozer and did it have lots of probblems in its day? Also what is the total weight of this dozer or what you think it is? Thanks for your time Ryan

Re: Where can I get parts

Posted by Larry Wolfe on 1/12/2002 at 08:16:22 IP: 208.10.124.85 Call landis Zimmerman his number is in the archives somewhere when someone askes about crawler stuff.

Re: Where can I get parts

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:37:37 IP: 209.163.7.94 Larry Wolfe is correct. Contact Landis Zimmerman (the Crawler Guru) at 717-738-2573. Sorry we are slow in answering, we have been gone for a few days. Those BG's were really good outfits. Larry............

3 point servo valve

Posted by Larry Wolfe on 1/10/2002 at 07:02:35 IP: 208.10.124.171 A differant pump has fixed my hydrolic overheating on the 2-105,but now the 3 point has stopped working twice.This system is closed center like a 1955.I ran the tractor and everything was working then the 3 point quit raiseing.So i took it out and could find nothing wrong and put it back.I started up the tractor and it was working for a few minetes then stopped again.The restrictors are open and the 3 point relief valve is ok.Any ideas on what to do?

Re: 3 point servo valve

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/13/2002 at 17:30:32 IP: 209.163.7.94 Boy! I can't help you on this. Sorry to be slow in answering. We have been gone for a few days. Larry...............

Engine Replacement.

Posted by D.Gillum on 1/8/2002 at 20:20:20 IP: 152.163.204.77 I want to know if I can replace engine from my 1566 or 1966 Oliver with my engine from my 856 International.

Re: Engine Replacement.

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/8/2002 at 22:31:01 IP: 209.163.7.49 I don't know. I don't know of anyone who has done this. However, it is probably do-able. Larry....

Super 55 Steering box

Posted by m kuhns on 1/7/2002 at 17:36:51 IP: 65.206.78.171 I have a Super 55 Diesel with hard steering the one direction. I jacked up the front and nothing in the front axle is binding. The steering gear has always had plenty of oil in it. I was told by other people that the 55's always were noted for problems with the steering gear. Is bearing wearing out? If you have any suggestions please e-mail me. If you have any disassembly pictures, could you please e-mail me them directly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. THanks in advance.

Re: Super 55 Steering box

Posted by Larry Harsin on 1/8/2002 at 07:40:02 IP: 209.163.7.66 I wouldn't say that 55's are noted for problems with the steering gear any more than any other tractor. You'll have to take it apart to check on the bearing. We don't get your email address unless you email to us. You should get an I & T Shop Manual for your tractor. You can get one from Jensales. Manual number is 0-11. 800-443-0625 Larry............


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