oliver 1600 crankshaft

IP: 12.206.23.91 Posted on January 31, 2007 at 09:55:02 AM by mark

I pulled the crank out of my 1600 diesel serial # 128 ... and took it to the machine shop. The guy there told me that the crank was bent. And to find a different crank if i could. My question is do you know where i can find a different crank (casting number 191311b) and would a 1650 crank work. I also need a rod (casting #190307) it had a twist to it. What bends the cranks anyway.

Re(1): oliver 1600 crankshaft

IP: 67.2.248.78 Posted on January 31, 2007 at 10:26:26 PM by Larry Harsin

I don't know what bent yours. They can get bent by having the cylinder full of water or fuel and trying to turn the engine. Or, too much starting fluid in one cylinder could do it. I'm pretty sure that I have these parts. I'll check in the morning and email you. Larry

super 77 wide front

IP: 63.91.20.217 Posted on January 25, 2007 at 03:08:00 PM by Jerry Crook

I have asuper 77 with wide front set very wide for a belly mower. It has been this way for 50 years now and i am having no luck getting it to budge to narrow it up. I have a 50 ton porta-power on it and have used heat. Any help would be appreciated.

Re(1): super 77 wide front

IP: 4.249.204.117 Posted on January 25, 2007 at 04:47:04 PM by Larry from md

Sometimes they just won't move. Are the wheel rims up close to the cast centers? you might gain some that way.

Re(2): super 77 wide front

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on January 28, 2007 at 12:22:01 PM by J. Ulmer

You are lucky in that the slides are out instead of in. This way you don't have as much area rusted together. Try soaking with a good penetrant by fabricasting (molding and gluing something like plastic anti=freeze jugs) a container to flood around the entire joint to let penetrant float into the rusted joints for several days. Use 3to5 pound shop hammers to hit opposite each other on the outer casing holding the axles slides as this will facilitate penetration and the shock will break down rust and corrosion. After several days try thermal shock by heating the outside in a line to cause the outside tube to expand. You may want to heat all around to break rust loose, but this heats the inside tube so it expands as well. If so get ice or dry ice (and use gloves to protect your skin) and cool the inside tube to shrink it from the outside. Try pulling the tubes out so you can get into the outer tube and clean and polish it so you can narrow your tread track...trying to push them together with 50 years crud will just wedge and lock them down. Separating and cleaning (and lubing) the parts should get you where you want to go. Lots of luck. Jerry

Re(3): super 77 wide front

IP: 67.2.248.128 Posted on January 29, 2007 at 08:09:34 AM by Larry Harsin

Also, heating and beating -- at the same time put a big pipe wrench out at the end by the spindle and twist as you heat and beat. This is a 2 man job!!! Larry

Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 69.77.215.229 Posted on January 24, 2007 at 06:52:58 PM by Ryan Kammerer

Is it possible to get an 1''3/8 pto shaft for a Super 99 GM tractor.

Re(1): Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 4.249.204.166 Posted on January 25, 2007 at 11:38:13 AM by Larry from md

If you can find one it can be done.The guys in my area did several of them. You do need to get a smaller seal to go with the smaller shaft.

Re(2): Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 66.115.254.147 Posted on January 28, 2007 at 11:30:14 AM by Ryan Kammerer

were these the only tractors that they put an 1"3/4 540 pto shaft on ?

Re(3): Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 4.249.111.14 Posted on January 28, 2007 at 04:40:34 PM by Larry from md

A few other tractor makers offered them too,but they were never popular.

Re(4): Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 67.2.248.128 Posted on January 29, 2007 at 08:04:57 AM by Larry Harsin

The 950 Oliver and the 990 Oliver also used the 1 3/8" shaft. Larry

Re(5): Super 99 GM PTO

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on January 29, 2007 at 07:13:54 PM by J. Ulmer

I think I'd look at getting a spare drive shaft section with the odd head on it to substitute back and forth as I swapped tractors with the implement or whatever (spray pump or whatever!!!)

serial #

IP: 69.8.48.1 Posted on January 24, 2007 at 03:37:53 PM by jack

77 row crop engine serial # 185220 m100 tractor serial # 337971c77d what year is it a super 77 or just a 77 thanks

Re(1): serial #

IP: 216.51.166.240 Posted on January 25, 2007 at 08:09:24 AM by ADB

I suppose Larry is at the Hart Parr - Oliver show in Iowa City so I looked it up. Looks like a 1951 77 Row Crop. I might add that the Super series came out in '54. The most noticable difference between the Fleetline and Super Series tractors was the front frame. The Fleetline frame had two pipe holes on each side for attaching implements. The Super frame had the two pipe holes but also had two flat pads with bolt holes cast into each side of the frame for mounting impements. ADB

Re(2): serial #

IP: 67.2.248.128 Posted on January 29, 2007 at 08:01:31 AM by Larry Harsin

Thanks, ADB, for answering this post. We were at the Oliver Show. Had a great time, saw lots of Oliver Friends. Larry

1650

IP: 204.112.125.37 Posted on January 23, 2007 at 07:57:53 AM by Wes Hamm

looking at purchasing a 1650 diesel no tph what my questions are ,what engine is in that tractor, the owner was saying it has a perkins.I was un aware perkins made that size of engine.Also the tractor is very hard starting...injectors?

Re(1): 1650

IP: 67.2.249.171 Posted on January 23, 2007 at 01:36:15 PM by Larry Harsin

The engine it was built with was 283 Waukesha. Perkins didn't make any engines for 1650's that I know of. The hard starting could be injectors, but it is probably that the tractor is tired and has low compression. Larry

88 Diesel unburned fuel

IP: 12.189.32.58 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 07:25:32 PM by Greg

Larry, I have a 88 Diesel that I got running 3 weeks ago. I had the injector pump rebuilt and also the injectors rebuilt with new nozzle tips. Injectors also came with new copper seat rings. The tractor starts and runs great. Started yesterday at 32 degrees and only used preheat button for assistance. When the tractor is running to warm up, after 10 mins I am hearing a backfire noise every once in a while. Can increase engine speed and eliminate the backfire. Notice above #4 injector that unburnt fuel is leaking out of exhaust port and also coming out of exhaust and running down the exhaust pipe. Is this injector not working properly? It appears we are getting too much fuel at this location or it is not burning properly. I did clean out the ports where the fuel is injected into. Any thoughts on my issue? Again, tractor runs great.

Re(1): 88 Diesel unburned fuel

IP: 67.2.249.13 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 11:11:37 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd pull the cap off of the energy cell on that cylinder and make sure it isn't plugged. If it is o.k., you could possibly have low compression on that cylinder or the injector may not be working properly. You may have to pull it out and check it again. Larry

Aftermarket 3-point hitch

IP: 152.163.100.11 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 03:41:01 PM by Brian Sutton

I am in the market for a 3-piont hitch for my 88 oliver. What do you recomend.Also the ones I see on the internet look like they only clamp on the axle housings?Is this strong enough for a blade or a mounted brushog. Thanks

Re(1): Aftermarket 3-point hitch

IP: 67.2.249.45 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 05:57:54 PM by Larry Harsin

I would suggest you check out the 3 pt. that Saginaw County Tractor Parts makes. 810-638-5787. Larry

Alternator on 770

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on January 20, 2007 at 11:35:32 PM by Rod Krischke

I have a 66 Oliver 770 with an alternator. Do you know if the tractor came this way from Oliver or did someone change it from a generator? There doesn't seem to be a voltage regulator and its negative ground.

Re(1): Alternator on 770

IP: 67.2.249.45 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 05:52:06 PM by Larry Harsin

The late production 770's had alternators. Yours came that way. It was probably equipped with an external regulator when it was built, but it has been changed to an internal style regular. All alternators on Oliver tractors are negative ground. Larry

Re(2): Alternator on 770

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 07:55:31 PM by Rod Krischke

So, Larry, if it came with the alternator, that leads to a couple of more questions. I need to replace the alternator, do I ask for an Oliver alternator or can I use one of those late 70s early 80s GM auto alternators? I also want to replace the coil. I measured the ohms across the terminals and it is less than 2. Should I get a coil with increased resistance or should I just get a standard coil? Thanks for your help.

Re(3): Alternator on 770

IP: 67.2.249.13 Posted on January 21, 2007 at 11:07:36 PM by Larry Harsin

It came with a Delco-Remy alternator. You can go to an automotive store and get that same alternator. It came with a 6 volt coil. I would go with that. Larry

super 55 pto clutch

IP: 67.142.130.30 Posted on January 19, 2007 at 04:23:23 PM by FRANK RHOADES

I am having trouble holding the pto clutch on my super 55. All it has to do is slip 1 time and i have to adjust the clutch. The fiber discs went to pecies in a very short time. I have the clutch apart now and noticed that in the back of the housing that there are 3 slots in the drum. The book calls for the 1st fiber disc to go aginst this housing. It would seem logical that if the clutch should slip that these slots in the housing would cut into the disc distroying it in a very short time. Seeing that all of the other clutch plates are smooth is there something wrong here?

Re(1): super 55 pto clutch

IP: 67.2.248.34 Posted on January 19, 2007 at 10:02:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I think those slots are tapered, so that they won't tear into the fiber disc. Pull the carrier out of there and make sure that your slots aren't sharp. If there is any oil leakage, you should remedy that while you have it apart. That might be contributing to the problem with the clutch. Larry

Need new rear tires

IP: 207.200.116.201 Posted on January 17, 2007 at 10:00:28 PM by Troy Meissner

Looking for new or used 13.6 X 38 tires for my Oliver 88. Also need a steering gear box. OEM was for row crop. Tractor was converted to wide front prior to my purchase. Does the wide front with econoline loader require different or gear box? Thanks for your help. P.S. Is common for there to be any noise from the tranny on these old girls, new to Olivers? This a 1949 model.

Re(1): Need new rear tires

IP: 67.2.249.74 Posted on January 18, 2007 at 06:51:44 AM by Larry Harsin

Your Firestone Dealer has these tires or www.Millertire.com. If your 88 has a Saginaw gear box, I don't have one. I have an early style worm and sector type. I'm thinking that you have a Saginaw unit, because the wide front was put on later. These old girls were naturally whinney. It's in the design of the transmission. Larry

2-105 pto diss.

IP: 4.249.108.12 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 05:54:45 PM by Larry from md

I have the pto unit off my tractor and need help with dissassembly. I have the first snapring and end piece off.The book shows useing a tool and pushing down the center piece and removeing the inner snapring. Well nothing moves and the snaprings have nothing pushing against them, but can't get them out.

Re(1): 2-105 pto diss.

IP: 67.2.248.129 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 11:23:30 PM by Larry Harsin

It's been a long time since I have had one of those apart. It is difficult to do. I have just done it once and I did what the book told me. I remember that it is very hard to do. I made my own tool to do it, I remember that. Call O'Brien Co. Impl. and ask to speak to Rich, their Shop Foreman. He will help you. 800-320-6224. Larry

1750 3 point

IP: 198.174.42.38 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 05:39:40 PM by Caleb Brown

When blowing snow today I lifted up the 3 point and it wouldn't go back down when I move the lever. It makes the clicking noise like your holding the lever when u dont have anything hooked to the outlets. Was wondering if there is a valve stuck somwhere and where should I start looking first.

Re(1): 1750 3 point

IP: 67.2.249.63 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 06:52:55 PM by Larry Harsin

It sounds like it is trying to keep on raising it. Maybe some linkage came loose or something inside. The first thing to check is where the control goes into hydraulic system, below the control lever. Make sure something didn't come disconnected there. Possibly you can't see it for the cab being in the way. If you find nothing there, there might be a sheared pin or a snap ring off or something inside the unit. To get in there, you will have to remove the seat. It is held on with 4 -- 1/2" bolts. Larry

1750 3 point

IP: 198.174.42.38 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 02:02:50 PM by Caleb Brown

I asked you yesterday about my 3 point not moiving and it turns out it was the pin inside the case. After I put a new pin in it doesn't do anything. All the linkage moves but 3 point doesnt lift or lower. The lever doesn't move all the way back to the raise position either. I looked with the cover off the hydraulic case and the linkage strikes the cast housing for the 3 point arms. Any ideas where to look next?

Re(1): 1750 3 point

IP: 4.249.108.12 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 06:02:31 PM by Larry from md

Make sure the spool in valve is moving. If the draft control is disconnected the lever can move and not move the spool. Is your draft control linkage inside or outside the tractor?

Re(2): 1750 3 point

IP: 198.174.42.38 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 06:30:57 PM by Caleb

With the linkage hooked up the spool moves about 3/4 inch. I disconnected the linkage and moved the spool by hand and the blower still didn't go down. I dont know if the tractor has to be running to do so though. I believe the draft linkage is on the inside don't see anything on the outside. If i have to check it what is the best way to do so with the blower stuck in the raised position? The tractor is a 1968 model with hydraul-shift if that helps any.-thank you for the help

Re(3): 1750 3 point

IP: 67.2.248.129 Posted on January 16, 2007 at 11:17:53 PM by Larry Harsin

The tractor has to be running before it will let the arms lower. Before you remove the lid, hook up a hose and pump the oil out of the hydraulic system. It holds about 5 gal. Then shut the tractor off and then you can take the lid off of the tractor with the blower in the raised position and the tractor NOT RUNNING and look for disconnected linkage or a sheared pin. I would not loosen the bolts that hold the servo valve as there is going to be pressure there with the blower hanging on the 3 pt. arms. I would try to do something to take the weight off of the arms with the blower in the up position. Like put a loader under it or a chain hoist in a tree or something to hold the blower up, before removal of the servo valve, if it is necessary to remove it. Larry

Re(4): 1750 3 point

IP: 4.249.204.186 Posted on January 17, 2007 at 11:27:48 AM by Larry from md

The inside draft control linkage has more parts and some are made of aluminum.If this is broken the spool won't move as far as it should to make things work. If the bottem linkage feels firm I would put the top on and try it running the engine.

Re(5): 1750 3 point

IP: 198.174.42.38 Posted on January 17, 2007 at 05:53:19 PM by caleb

All the linkage looks good. Pins all in, still nothing when I ran the engine. Thinking about checking out the servo valve next unless you have any other ideas. thanx for the help!!! caleb

Re(6): 1750 3 point

IP: 67.2.248.134 Posted on January 17, 2007 at 06:12:08 PM by Larry Harsin It about has to be in the servo valve if you havn't found anything else wrong. Be sure to have something holding up the blower before you check it out. Larry

Re(7): 1750 3 point

IP: 198.174.42.38 Posted on January 18, 2007 at 05:55:44 PM by caleb

Got servo valve out today. When I took it out I noticed a little piece of mangled metal that must of fell out when I pulled the servo valve off. Could have this been the trouble? Was going to look into the valve more which spool should I be looking at? thanx for the help-Caleb

Re(8): 1750 3 point

IP: 67.2.248.73 Posted on January 18, 2007 at 10:31:19 PM by Larry Harsin

That little piece of metal could be the problem. You should take the servo valve all apart and clean it thoroughly, making sure there is no scoring or sticking of spools in the holes. Larry

1650 3 point top link

IP: 205.237.160.36 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 09:27:57 PM by Chris Blome

I have a 1965 1650 tractor and I broke the top link of the 3 point moving round bales. I have welded it back together, but would like to find a new one just in case it breaks again. can anyone tell me where i could find one. thanks for your help

Re(1): 1650 3 point top link

IP: 68.1.212.184 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 10:46:40 PM by j.ulmer

Are you referring to the turn-buckle? If so Tractor Supply Company or most implement dealers should be able to fix you up. If you are refering to the bracket on the tractor where it pins the turnbuckle (top-link)Larry will help you. Please fix it as soon as possible as it breaking during transport with a toolbar can be deadly. Twenty or so years ago a mans toplink broke, dropped the back of the toolbar which hit the pavement and broke loose on one side of threepoint. When it went backward the other side rode up on the rear tire over the drivers seat and killed the guy. Patches can be dangerous like we would never imagine until we see the "WHAT IF?" occuring. Be safe!

Re(2): 1650 3 point top link

IP: 67.2.242.50 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 11:45:52 PM by Larry Harsin

You should be able to get one from your AGCO Dealer. If you don't have an AGCO Dealer, call Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. Larry

Paint/Pictures

IP: 70.254.221.130 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 01:52:17 PM by Ken McFarland

I bought a repainted 1800A diesel at auction, in fact except the wheels and grille,and decals, most everything is green including wiring harnesses. I have the shop manual, but it has black and white pictures. Is there a source for colored pictures, to authentically repaint? Also, it has an alternater hanging on it not wired to recharge the batt. do you recommend returning to the negative ground generator? authenticity in this regard is unimportant, working gauges, lights and charging system takes priority. I am using this tractor in a haying operation and need reliability.

Re(1): Paint/Pictures

IP: 67.2.249.63 Posted on January 15, 2007 at 06:47:23 PM by Larry Harsin

I'd put it back the way it was built -- with a generator and positive ground. For a colored picture, contact Sherry Schaefer at email: sherry@oliverinformation.com She is the Editor of Oliver Heritage Magazine and I'm sure she'd have a picture of an 1800 A. She could email it to you. Larry

4?point hitch

IP: 24.24.47.140 Posted on January 14, 2007 at 02:30:15 PM by mario

I recently bought an oliver 1600 w/loader attachment.all components operate except the upper implement raising shaft/an axle w/fine teeth that you attach arms to,moving the lever makes no differance although the lever returns to nuetral.no broken shaft into rear case.the outer lever engages pto,the inner should work this axle right?,any ideas where problem lies,is there an access panel?

Re(1): 4?point hitch

IP: 67.2.248.131 Posted on January 14, 2007 at 10:38:07 PM by Larry Harsin

There is a by-pass valve on the right side of the unit (a 1/2" fine thread capscrew by your right foot). This must be turned in as far as it will go so that the 3 pt. hitch will work. Larry

Where could I find a cab?

IP: 12.227.210.112 Posted on January 13, 2007 at 03:07:19 AM by BRANDON STUCKEY

Thank you for the info. about the year of my 1850,and the build card that is available for it. Do to recent weather here in central IL. I have been wondering where I can get a cab for the tractor I have. Any type will do as long as it keeps out the wind and rain when the neighbor gets stuck at 2:00 AM.

Re(1): Where could I find a cab?

IP: 67.2.240.172 Posted on January 14, 2007 at 01:28:59 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Worthington Tractor Parts 800-533-5314 or Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 12.189.32.39 Posted on January 12, 2007 at 10:40:15 PM by Greg

Larry, I have a 1953 Oliver 88 Diesel that I purchased from a dealer. The PTO shaft runs the whole time the tractor runs, the PTO lever cannot be moved to disengage. I have disassembled the PTO clutch assy and found nothing sticking or rusted together. I replaced clutch disc with new ones and reassembled. I found that the six bolts that hold the front and rear halves together (also holds the brass shims)have to be backed off and then the clutch assy works properly. When these bolts are tighted against the shims, the whole units is solid and cannot slide the engagement ring. It appears that maybe someone has removed shims for some reason to run PTO continuously. I measured the shim thickness when bolts are tight and they measure 1/8" thick at each location. Am I missing shims to make this work correctly? I thought about buying a new shim kit but AGCO wants $93 for the package. I want to make sure I am on the right track before buying anything.

Re(1): Oliver 88 PTO assy

IP: 67.2.248.33 Posted on January 12, 2007 at 11:15:50 PM by Larry Harsin

If there is 1/8" of shims in there, that should be more than enough. There must be something else that is put together incorrectly. I would try using some 5/16 flat washers at each of the 6 points, to give it a little more space and see if that works instead of purchasing more shims. Larry

Oliver 1250

IP: 12.74.27.27 Posted on January 8, 2007 at 07:35:45 PM by Robb Thomas

Larry, What is the availability of parts for a 1250 gas? Thanks, Robb

Re(1): Oliver 1250

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on January 8, 2007 at 09:57:15 PM by Larry Harsin

Poor. You can check with Ag Parts First 866-264-9720 or www.agpartsfirst.com or Danny Bowes' website: www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html Larry

1800A GUAGES

IP: 66.242.45.38 Posted on January 8, 2007 at 05:34:36 PM by M.MILLER

Where can I find new or good used guages for a 1800a series.

Re(1): 1800A GUAGES

IP: 67.2.248.64 Posted on January 8, 2007 at 09:54:14 PM by Larry Harsin

Check with Rock Valley Tractor Parts 800-831-8543. Larry

Oil Leak on Injector Pump

IP: 12.226.103.141 Posted on January 4, 2007 at 05:59:56 PM by oliver123

On a Super 88 Diesel, I have oil dripping from my fulcrum lever shaft. It looks like the oil seal on the shaft needs to be replaced to stop the leak. Can the fulcrum shaft be removed from the governor housing with it on the tractor? Or do I have to removed the governor from the pump and repair off the tractor? I really dont want to have to take the whole pump off. According to my shop manual, it looks like a snap ring comes off the back and then the shaft slides out and then the seal can be replaced. Is there anything else to replacing it? Any advice is apppreciated.

Re(1): Oil Leak on Injector Pump

IP: 67.2.249.1 Posted on January 4, 2007 at 10:41:43 PM by Larry Harsin

No. The governor housing will have to be removed from the pump. This can be done without removing the pump from the engine. That little ball bearing will have to be replaced. Sometimes the shaft is worn enough that it should be replaced also. Larry

770 Zenith Carb adjustment

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on January 4, 2007 at 07:41:47 AM by Rod Krischke

What is the procedure to adjust the carb mixture screws on the Zenith Carb?

Re(1): 770 Zenith Carb adjustment

IP: 67.2.249.1 Posted on January 4, 2007 at 10:35:34 PM by Larry Harsin

I usually start in with the initial adjustment of 3/4 of a turn open on the idle mixture screw and a turn and and a half open on the load mixture screw. Then start the engine and proceed from there. This should be covered in your Operator's Manual. Larry

Re(2): 770 Zenith Carb adjustment

IP: 71.220.246.73 Posted on January 6, 2007 at 00:50:56 AM by Rod Krischke

Thanks Larry I appreciate the help. I just purchased a manual for the Oliver on ebay, but haven't received it yet. I have just learned what model of Oliver it is in the last 2 weeks. I am excited to get the manual because I have been doing all tuning by ear. Checking the mailbox everyday.

HG Crawler

IP: 208.111.200.65 Posted on January 2, 2007 at 06:55:06 PM by Joe Crocco

Hi Larry I have an HG Crawler with the voltage regulator mounted separately from the generator (later Model I think). Do you know the Napa number for the proper Delco Voltage regulator? It is a 6 volt positive ground system. If not do you know where I can purchase one?

Re(1): HG Crawler

IP: 67.2.249.8 Posted on January 2, 2007 at 10:53:05 PM by Larry Harsin

There is one shown in the VAlu-Bilt catalog that I think will work. The # for it is 910927. It is priced at $34.69 on page 192. It is shown in the listing for International Harvestor. Their phone is: 888-828-3276. Larry

1550 cuts out

IP: 24.229.146.123 Posted on January 1, 2007 at 01:13:19 PM by Codie

I have an Oliver 1550 gas. It starts and runs fine for about 30 minutes then it shuts off as if the key was turned off. It usualy will re start and run for at least 15 minutes before shutting off again. I have changed the coil and the switch. All wires seem to be in good condition and all connections are tight. It is also getting fuel. What could the problem be and how could I solve it? Re(1): 1550 cuts out

IP: 67.2.248.205 Posted on January 1, 2007 at 06:28:56 PM by Larry Harsin

It may be the points that are doing it. I would try a different set of points. If that doesn't do it, take a volt meter and check where the wire goes from the switch to the coil and see if that is o.k. It should be 6 - 8 volts. Larry

Re(1): 1550 cuts out

IP: 4.140.234.105 Posted on January 2, 2007 at 12:11:48 PM by John

My 1550 did that. Plate that points sit on was deteriorated, Holly parts not available. I used an electronic ignition kit which had a replacement nylon plate. This cured the problem.

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