"Ask The Oliver Mechanic" - January, 2008 Archives
OC 6 Crawler
IP: 75.87.250.19 Posted on January 29, 2008 at 02:54:24 PM by Frank
can you tell me if any of the tractor grilles are the same as the oc 6 and which ones.thanks am new to olivers this is my 1st
Re(1): OC 6 Crawler
IP: 4.158.84.213 Posted on January 30, 2008 at 06:16:38 AM by Larry Harsin
The grills for a 77 will fit an OC 6. Korves Bros. Oliver has new reproduction ones. 618-939-6681. Larry
77 head gasket
IP: 207.119.73.53 Posted on January 29, 2008 at 07:44:16 AM by Jon Williams
Hello, I have a 1953 77RC that I bought last year. When I got her running it ran with a bad miss. I took the head to the machine shop and had them go thru the head. Now the tractor runs fine but smokes. A friend of mine said the oil-rings are gone. After compression check,(it is 3.50" bore) each hole has at least 160 per hole. My question is if I remove the head and put rings in it, is it possible to reuse the head gasket I put on it(if there isn't any visible damage). The gasket isn't copper, it is a "Victor Gasket". It has been ran maybe 4 hours at the most. Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Jon Williams
Re(2): 77 head gasket
IP: 4.158.84.18 Posted on February 5, 2008 at 07:30:40 PM by Larry Harsin
If the head gasket isn't damaged, I think you could use it again. I don't know why not, anyway. Larry
Re(2): 77 head gasket
IP: 24.197.234.206 Posted on January 29, 2008 at 12:59:35 PM by pllr
I have had good luck with copper kote, comes in a spray can at automotive stores....
1600 lift
IP: 72.251.16.142 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 05:56:11 PM by Bill Wyatt
Am looking at a 1600. 3 point and externals operable, but 3 point only comes up part way. Had a blade hooked to it with a cylinder to angle it and lifted it about 6 inches off the ground,but will not come up to the sway blocks. It looks like it lacks 6 inches coming to top of blocks. When I looked at it, hydraulic fluid was low and held 2 gallons to fill. What are possible problems?
Re(1): 1600 lift
IP: 4.252.27.219 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:34:59 PM by Larry Harsin
I would say there is a good chance that the hydraulic pump is weak. You should check the operating pressure on the system. It should be at least 1500 psi. Larry
Re(2): 1600 lift
IP: 72.251.17.19 Posted on January 29, 2008 at 05:47:47 PM by Bill Wyatt
What is approximate cost of rebuilding the hydraulic pump if weak?
Re(3): 1600 lift
IP: 4.252.25.130 Posted on January 30, 2008 at 11:17:40 PM by Larry Harsin
We don't rebuild those pumps. We get a new after-market one. It will be considerably less than a genuine pump from AGCO. They run approx. $350 or so. You can get one from Ag Parts First, 866-264-9720. Larry
Re(4): 1600 lift
IP: 72.251.17.21 Posted on January 31, 2008 at 05:03:17 PM by Bill Wyatt
How and where do I check the pressure? At the drain discharge plug? If so, what size is the plug?
Re(5): 1600 lift
IP: 4.254.112.54 Posted on January 31, 2008 at 07:43:05 PM by Larry Harsin
You can test your pressure at your hydraulic cylinder outlets. You should have at least 1500 lbs. of pressure, when the tractor is warmed up. You should get a Service Manual for your tractor, from the Museum in Charles City. Phone: 641-228-1099. Larry
old style 88 standard
IP: 206.131.30.1 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 12:22:59 PM by jeremy
Hi Larry, I have another question regarding my old style oliver 88 standard. It doesn't have any factory hydralics on the tractor and I am wondering if it is possible to take the hydraulics off of a regular, fleetline,super 77 or 88, 770 and put it on? If so do I need a different pto shaft and what else would I need? Does the belt pulley make a difference with this?Thanks in advance for all of you help.
Re(1): old style 88 standard
IP: 4.252.27.219 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:31:50 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. You can install a series 3 hydraulic system (as you mention) right onto your tractor. Your PTO shaft in your tractor will work. The belt pulley won't affect it. Larry
1650 diesel
IP: 72.251.63.14 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 06:14:58 AM by corre
Larry I wrote earlyer about this tractor slipping a push rod it did it again motor was warm I blocked the whole radiator I was wondering if the ends of the rocker arms being worn if this could cause this I put some anti-gel in the fuel barrel this year could that be it I heard from some guys around hear that put trans fliud in the fuel tank on the older diesels say it helps the vavles what your thought on this thanks for all your help
Re(1): 1650 diesel
IP: 4.252.27.219 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:28:40 PM by Larry Harsin
If you have exhaust valves that are sticking, you should try to get more oil over onto the valve stems. You may have to remove the cylinder head and give it a valve job, for this problem, if more oil on the valve stems doesn't work. I don't think the anti gel would be the problem. I don't think the trans fluid in the fuel tank would hurt anything, but I don't think it will fix your problem. Larry
Re(2): 1650 diesel
IP: 72.251.63.110 Posted on January 29, 2008 at 06:46:05 AM by corre
I had her runnning in the garage with the valve cover off seems like a good flow of oil I did put some trans fliud on the vavles and a quart in the tank I ran her for a but an hour moving snow and stuff seems fine but was nice out yeasterday in the 40s so we'll see thanks for the help I was thinking bent valve happened before but it was acting like this just had lack of power.
1650
IP: 24.206.163.15 Posted on January 26, 2008 at 07:57:38 PM by KIM
I HAVE PURCHASED A 1967 - 1650, I AM TOLD IT HAS BEEN OVERHAULED, BUT THE COMPRESSION IS AROUND 245 AND I THINK IT SHOULD BE AROUND 350 SINCE IT IS A NEW OVERHAUL. (1 MONTH AGO OVERHAUL). THE CLUTCH IS NEW, AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO CHECK THAT ALSO ? REASON IS , I DONT THINK THE TRACTOR HAS THE POWER IT SHOULD FOR A 67 HORSE, - FOR EXAMPLE I WAS MOWING MY PASTURE ( 3 FEET TALL GRASS AND WEEDS) WITH MY 6FT MOWER AND IT STARTS BOOGING DOWN, LOSING POWER LIKE MY OLD 40 HORSE FORD TRACTOR. THIS IS WITH THE ENGINE CRANKED UP PRETTY GOOD AND I FEEL IT IS NOT MAKING THE HORSE POWER AND SINCE THE COMPRESSION SEEMS LOW, I WANT TO VERIFY THE TRACTOR HAS ACTUALYY BEEN REBIULT. HOW CAN I VERIFY THIS ENGINE HAS BEEN OVERHALED? I WAS TOLD, THEY REPLACED THE CYLINDERS AND PISTONS, VALVE JOB ECT? NEW INJECTION PUMP, INJECTORS , OIL PRESSURE IS AROUND 30 PSI.
Re(1): 1650
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 10:08:08 PM by Larry Harsin
Is this a 1650 gas? I would take it someplace and put it on a dyno and see how much horsepower it has. Then, work at it from that point. Larry
Re(2): 1650
IP: 24.206.163.15 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:56:56 AM by KIM
It is a diesel, I noticed when I start it (engine is not hot) there is alot of white smoke? I also here a miss like a valve sticking. It is also very hard to start, but once I get it going everything seem to calm down, except for alittle less smoke, but there is still smoke?
Re(3): 1650
IP: 4.252.27.219 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:24:01 PM by Larry Harsin
You are going to have to remove the cylinder head and give it a valve job. Also, have the injectors checked. Check the height of the intake valves in the head. They should be flush with the surface of the head, or not more than .015 below the surface. You should check the height of the exhaust valves also. If there is very much wear in the seats, have them replaced. Larry
Re(4): 1650
IP: 24.206.163.15 Posted on January 28, 2008 at 10:38:03 PM by kIM
Hi Larry, OK, It was supposed to have a valve job with the rebuid but I will pull the head and check it all out . I will measure the inside cylinder walls to verify there are new sleeves, do you know what would be the measurement??
Re(5): 1650
IP: 4.158.84.213 Posted on January 30, 2008 at 06:18:28 AM by Larry Harsin
It should have 3 7/8 bore. Larry
PTO , CW to CCW
IP: 65.73.221.83 Posted on January 25, 2008 at 04:38:05 PM by Larry Lee
I have an Oliver Super 88 Diesel. It's a pain in the neck (literally) using my back up snow blower. I want to convert it to a pull behind type. I can do the welding etc. to make it. The problem is that once the blower is turned around so that it is faced the right way for pulling, my pto shaft will turn the auger the wrong way. I have an old V-type snow blower and I need to have the output of the pto shaft be CCW to turn the auger in the correct direction. Any ideas?
Re(1): PTO , CW to CCW
IP: 143.115.155.55 Posted on January 26, 2008 at 03:53:22 PM by Larry
I would change the gearbox on the snow blower. Any attempt to change the pto on the tractor would be very difficult and make the tractor PTO useless for any other applications.
Re(2): PTO , CW to CCW
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 10:04:44 PM by Larry Harsin
Larry has given you good advice. It would be difficult to change the tractor. Larry Harsin
Injector interchange
IP: 208.66.120.193 Posted on January 24, 2008 at 05:19:06 PM by Rawleigh
Will J-60287 injectors from a 1550 work in a Super 88 diesel?
Re(1): Injector interchange
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 10:02:21 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. They will work. Larry
Super 99 brakes
IP: 216.208.153.241 Posted on January 24, 2008 at 04:34:08 PM by Neil Craig
I am renewing the brakes on my super99. How do you get the outer brake disc on the splined bull pinion when the brake cover and the actuating disc assembly have to go on first? I`ve done the disc brakes on fleetline tractors with no problem since the brake cover is a flat plate, but this super99 brake cover has sides on it.
Re(1): Super 99 brakes
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 10:00:32 PM by Larry Harsin
They ARE a bit more of a challenge. You just have to hold everything up there and work it around til the splines catch that disk. Larry
Re(2): Super 99 brakes
IP: 209.226.38.173 Posted on January 31, 2008 at 01:46:29 PM by neil craig
Thanks Larry It was quite a struggle as there is alot of iron there to hold up together, but I got it done
1800 transmission
IP: 67.1.179.131 Posted on January 24, 2008 at 07:52:52 AM by Curt
Hello Larry, I'm looking at a early 1800 that has a clunking noise when you put it in reverse. It seems to work fine. My worst fear is that it has a gear that's missing a few cogs. (I know people like this too!!) I have a 2050 that did this in 6th gear. It worked fine too, but I still fixed it. Ouch! Any other thoughts. Thanks.
Re(1): 1800 transmission
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 09:58:15 PM by Larry Harsin
I think there is a good possibility that it has a few cogs missing. We know a few people like that too!! :) You'll have to check it out and see what you have to do with it. Larry
770 trans oil
IP: 139.78.189.90 Posted on January 24, 2008 at 07:06:58 AM by T.F.Peeper
I bought a well equipped working 770 on factory LPG, with the early style grill and changed all filters and fluids, but what is supposed to be used as transmission oil? The original Operator's manual says light weight motor oil plus a special Oliver additive, which isn't available. What is today's substitute. I am the second owner of this well taken care of tractor, and I don't want to mess it up. Some folks tell me 90W but that must be too heavy, or it would have been recommended in the Operators manual. Will hydraulic oil work? Thank you. Tom
Re(1): 770 trans oil
IP: 4.158.84.19 Posted on January 27, 2008 at 09:55:28 PM by Larry Harsin
If it is equipped with a power booster transmission, you should use something like Hy-Tran from Case/IH. If it does not have a power booster transmission, just a staight 6 speed, use 80 - 90 gear lube. I don't reccomend using hydraulic oil in the rear end. Larry
Hydraulic oil
IP: 4.238.249.139 Posted on January 23, 2008 at 05:48:37 PM by Blaine Wiley
I have a super 77 diesel. The manual calls for 10 weight oil in the hydralics. 10 weight may be discontinued as I tried four places and can't find it anymore. My local auto parts also can no longer get 20 weight either. Would universal hydralic oil or 10-30 weight be ok to substitute? I am putting new piston and sleeves in the engine. The service manual says to use a white lead paste when installing o'rings on the sleeves. I am not having any luck finding this paste. Is there a brand name or another product that I could look for?
Re(1): Hydraulic oil
IP: 4.158.84.193 Posted on January 23, 2008 at 10:41:08 PM by Larry Harsin
Yes. 10-30 would work, but at a farm supply store, you can get a light, med or heavy grade of non-foaming hydraulic oil. Don't use the heavy, but either of the others are what I use. Instead of white lead paste, I use liquid dish soap to install these now. Larry
770 diesel block
IP: 207.68.47.13 Posted on January 21, 2008 at 02:31:01 PM by Rawleigh
Larry: How hard are 770 diesel blocks to come by and approximately how much should one cost. I am in Virginia and have a chance to buy a 770 diesel which has a crack in the water jacket on the left side above the starter. It has been welded, but still seeps when hot. Olivers are hard to come by around here so I don't want to just pass it up if it would not be too expensive to replace. Also can you recommend a source for a rebuild kit. Thanks. Rawleigh
Re(1): 770 diesel block
IP: 4.252.28.96 Posted on January 21, 2008 at 07:52:46 PM by Larry Harsin
I have a block. But, if that engine is alright otherwise, I would drain the anti-freeze, remove the starter and grind that weld out with a side grinder. I'd make a nice "V" on the crack slightly less than 1/8th of an inch deep and fill it with JB Weld. Let it cure for a few days. Then, smooth it up with your side grinder. I've done this before and it works. If the engine is otherwise o.k., it will save an expensive tear down. You can get a rebuild kit from Korves Bros. 618-939-6681. Larry
Re(2): 770 diesel block
IP: 208.66.120.193 Posted on January 22, 2008 at 08:19:06 AM by Rawleigh
Thanks Larry!! Would drilling dimples into the edges of the V help the JB Weld hold or is that an unnecessary step?
Re(3): 770 diesel block
IP: 4.158.84.7 Posted on January 22, 2008 at 07:31:45 PM by Larry Harsin
I havn't found that it was necessary to do that. Larry
Power steering 88
IP: 74.224.171.159 Posted on January 19, 2008 at 09:30:12 AM by charles rutland
larry; can you give me infomation on installing power steering on a 88 and approx> cost I have seen some pictures that look like a small hyd, motor on the steering shaft, also where parts could be found, Thanks.RUTLAND
Re(1): Power steering 88
IP: 4.158.84.27 Posted on January 19, 2008 at 04:40:50 PM by Larry Harsin
I have 2 sheets of instructions for doing this. Send me $3 and your address and I will send you a complete parts list and installation instructions. Parts are getting exceedingly hard to find. You can get a seal kit for the torque motor from Force America in Ft. Dodge IA 515-573-8179. Ask them if they have other parts. Larry Harsin, 3426 170th St, Estherville IA 51334.
Oil leaks
IP: 69.95.78.103 Posted on January 18, 2008 at 04:13:45 PM by AL FRECKER
On my Oliver 1750, I'm leaking oil out of the left brake and I'm loosing oil out of the hydraulics. I've taken the brake apart, but I can't get the brake housing off. I've taken the 6 bolts out and the shims came out, but it only moves about a 1/4". How much force should I use to get it off?
Re(1): Oil leaks
IP: 4.158.84.215 Posted on January 18, 2008 at 11:32:49 PM by Larry Harsin
Don't try to remove that!!! It won't come off without tearing the back end of the tractor apart. The bull gears have to be moved back before removal of the brake housing. The seal has to be removed from the outside. You will have to drain the transmission oil out and remove the PTO assembly, to check to see if the rollers on the inner differential bearing have come out. There are approx. 57 of these rollers on each side. Larry
4240 Plow
IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 05:48:44 PM by Bill W
I am restoring a 3x14 Oliver 4240 plow to go with my 770. I need to replace the shares. The ones that are on the plow are 3 hole and I was told the replacements would be 4 hole. I don't have a dealer local and am a little unsure about ordering from a catalog without some professional advice. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I am also looking for the road lock for the tail wheel. Thanks for your time. Bill W
Re(1): 4240 Plow
IP: 4.158.84.166 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 11:11:07 PM by Larry Harsin
You could get either 3 bolt or 4 bolt shares. If you don't have rocky soil, 3 bolt shares work fine. AGCO Dealers sell shares as well as farm supply stores. Valu-Bilt has them 888-828-3276. You can get the road lock from an AGCO Dealer, but you could also fabricate one. Larry
1600 engine
IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 05:11:11 PM by shad speer
larry, first i would like to thank you for your quick answers to questions i thought you might appreciate this story i bought a 1600 in hopes of using the engine for another tractor the guy i bought it from said it had a knock so i got it running and the knock was in the #1 bearing i thought but the noise would change so we pulled the plug to see if we could see the piston and cylinder wall we saw a couple dents in the piston and found that there was the threaded end of a spark plug on the piston i took it out with a magnet started it back up and it ran beautiful lucky i guess take care. shad
Re(1): 1600 engine
IP: 69.26.11.99 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 07:38:05 PM by Bill Wagner
Oh, doesn't it feel good to have something turn out to be so simple and - no cost!!
Re(2): 1600 engine
IP: 4.158.84.166 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 11:06:07 PM by Larry Harsin
Well, you got lucky and had a good learning experience. Good for you!! Larry
OL 66, S66, 660 outer tie rods
IP: 4.254.86.131 Posted on January 13, 2008 at 07:00:37 PM by Landen Schooler
I REALLY NEED a pair of outer tie rod ends for an Oliver 66, S66, or 660. I have all the parts for my project except the outer tie rod ends. Can you be of any help finding new ones?
Re(1): OL 66, S66, 660 outer tie rods
IP: 4.252.24.120 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 05:38:51 AM by Larry Harsin
Check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. 800-320-6224. If he can't help you, you will have to purchase automotive tie rod ends at your automotive store, and weld them onto your tie rods. Larry
1650 diesel
IP: 72.251.63.237 Posted on January 13, 2008 at 06:40:51 PM by corre
Hi Larry I had a problem will plow snow I opened the tractor to move to different spot as I got there I slow down the engine and a load tick start followed by poppping in the intake manifold I pulled the vavle cover to discover a push rod had slid past the exhaust rocker I losed everything up and went though the tappets any Idea what might have happened it seems to run fine the push rod didnt seem bent with a bench roll thank you for any help. this is a energy cell engine if that matters
Re(1): 1650 diesel
IP: 4.158.84.166 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 11:03:29 PM by Larry Harsin
What happened is, that an exhaust valve stuck open and caused the problem. Make sure that the thermostat is working, so that the engine warms up properly. If it does it again, I would run it with the valve cover off and shoot penetrating oil onto the valve stems. I would also check to make sure that some oil is feeding over to the valves from the rocker arms. But, the most important part is, that the thermostat is working properly, as that vaporizes the oil so that it gets over to the valve stems. Even cover the radiator, if you have to, to get it to warm up. Larry
88 oliver
IP: 74.75.233.159 Posted on January 13, 2008 at 04:36:39 PM by Ron Grother
I have a chance to buy a 88 RC diesel. has a broken center plate. is it a big job to fix.The guy told me they are known for this. is that true.
Re(1): 88 oliver
IP: 4.252.24.120 Posted on January 14, 2008 at 05:35:46 AM by Larry Harsin
Most of the center plate breakage on the hydraulic pumps, is due to water getting into the hydraulic oil, because of bad boots on the levers. It can be a major problem is the tractor has a bad boot and is left outside. It isn't a major operation to fix. The PTO drive shaft has to be removed. Then, unbolt the hydraulic unit and remove it from the tractor. New boots are available from many sources. The part number is K2060A. Larry
Oliver 1450 Hydraulics
IP: 67.142.130.11 Posted on January 12, 2008 at 06:27:24 PM by Tom
The three point hitch will not work. It will not go up or down. You can lift it up by hand and there is no presure on it. On the hydraulic hoses we only have fluid power on one hose. I believe it is in the control valve. Is there a place to purchase this valve or a rebuild kit? Or should I be looking at another problem. The pump appears to be working and the power steering is also working.
Re(1): Oliver 1450 Hydraulics
IP: 4.158.42.23 Posted on January 13, 2008 at 06:54:58 AM by Larry Harsin
I believe that you are correct that you might have a problem with your valve. You can check with Tom at O'Brien Co. Impl. about this. 800-320-6224 Or you could check out this website and see if Danny Bowes could help you. www.sphosting.com/dsl/index.html His email is: oldtractor@renc.igs.net Your tractor is a Fiat Oliver built in Italy. Larry
1600 1550
IP: 66.66.235.219 Posted on January 9, 2008 at 06:00:32 PM by shad speer
is there any hidden secrets in putting 1600 gas into a 1550 so far it looks the same to me
Re(1): 1600 1550
IP: 4.158.84.59 Posted on January 10, 2008 at 06:24:01 AM by Larry Harsin
No secrets.........You may have to bore 2 front holes in the tub, for the engine mounts. I think the 1600 gas engine is just a trifle longer than the 1550 engine. The 1600 engine is in the 190 family and the 1550 engine is in the 185 family. Larry
Cummins powerd 1750
IP: 24.206.203.53 Posted on January 8, 2008 at 09:17:06 PM by derrick rhodes
Great great website!!! have a question for you....i am a 21 year old from garrett county maryland i have several olivers. all my family does its kind of a family tradition if you know what i mean. all are wonderfull except for one 1755 with the all so infomas waukesha.... well it threw a rod spreading manure at low rpms. and instead of another breakashaw id like the 5.9 cummins powerplant i hear people do it,do you know anything about this or know who may? or will i hav 2 do this as a total solo fabrication? thanks for your time any input would be greatly appreciated and keep up the good work on the site.
Re(1): cummins powerd 1750
IP: 4.158.84.154 Posted on January 9, 2008 at 06:38:40 AM by Larry Harsin
Give Adam Shiflett in Virginia, a call. 540-363-1411. Larry
Oliver 88 hyd. adjustment
IP: 216.229.17.65 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 07:57:15 AM by Greg
I have added an aftermarket 3pt w/two 3 x 8 lift cylinders on my Oliver 88. I have been blading snow with the unit and want to speed up the hydraulic system. Currently with blade mounted, it takes 6 secs to lift blade, 4 secs to lower blade. According to op. manual, the LH rear port has a spring loaded plunger in the restrictor valve that needs adjusted to change speed. Did this and saw no effect. Removed both restrictor valves and found the one with the plunger is in the front port and blank valve in the rear port. The rear port goes to the rod end of lift cylinder (lowers blade)and the front port goes to the base end of lift cylinder (raises blade). Are these valves being reversed causing the system to work slower? Can the system be sped up anymore that the current speed I have? Any advise would be appreciated.
Re(1): Oliver 88 hyd. adjustment
IP: 4.252.193.48 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 08:55:10 PM by Larry Harsin
If you have the valves out or screwed out, that is as fast as that is going to work with those cylinders. You may want to go to 2.5" cylinders or use just one 3" cylinder for the blade. Larry
1850 PTO brake
IP: 207.103.48.195 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 05:25:51 AM by Steve
Rebuilt the PTO on 1850 after clutch failure. The farm has used tractor for several months. Engages ok / but can't get the brake to hold. Did put a new brake washer in when rebuilt and have adjusted the bolt for the handle several times. PTO will still turn at times when trying to hook implement. Any suggestions.
Re(1): 1850 PTO brake
IP: 4.158.84.118 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 06:04:29 AM by Larry Harsin
What you are describing is very typical. I have not found a way to improve on this, other that what you have already done. Larry
1600 parts
IP: 71.50.252.38 Posted on January 6, 2008 at 09:05:54 PM by pappy
Will the crank and sleeves from a 1600 oliver,265 Wak. fit in an 88 block?
Re(1): 1600 parts
IP: 4.158.84.118 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 06:02:03 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. They will interchange. Larry
1550Gas /Coolant in Crankcase After Backfire
IP: 65.117.137.160 Posted on January 6, 2008 at 12:11:15 PM by RockinB
After the annual, all of a sudden ( Mallory aftermarket distributor point failure. One hell of a backfire) on my 1550 gas, I replaced the failed points as usual, started the tractor up and it ran fine. Not having a need for it at that time I assumed all was well. A few days later a need arose, the tractor started and ran fine while I took a mineral tub out to the pasture and then proceeded to the other end of the farm for other chores. (all told run time of about 10-15 minutes. Now is when I noticed the radiator overflow was steaming. I immediately shut it down and went for some coolant. Upon returning it started right up, and I began to add coolant and look for a leak. No leak noticed but the radiator did not appear to be filling. Shut it down and pulled the dipstick. You guessed it, crankcase full of coolant. My rush to judgment, a blown head gasket do to the initial backfire that loosened and blew off the rain cap. Got it pulled and pushed into the barn and ordered a head gasket set from MaibachÕs with the strong belief it was a head gasket. Upon the teardown I found the gasket to be intact, and no visible sign of it being compromised. I have sprayed the head with ether and looked for cracks to no avail, with the exception of the exhaust valve on # 5 being a bit of a different color than the others I plan on taking the head into the machine shop to have it checked. All the sleeves appear to be seated properly. My question is could this be a cracked sleeve that would only leak when the engine was warm? Guess I should have checked compression before teardown. Any and all input will be greatly appreciated.
Re(1): 1550Gas /Coolant in Crankcase After Backfire
IP: 4.158.84.221 Posted on January 6, 2008 at 07:35:26 PM by Larry Harsin
If you can't find any problems with the head, when it is checked at the machine shop, then, I would suspect a cracked sleeve. Larry
Clover White paint
IP: 64.12.116.77 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 06:18:37 PM by Bill
I am getting ready to paint the family 770. I am getting mixed stories about the white on the wheels and grill. Does the correct Clover White have a slight green tint or not? Who is the best supplier and do you know the paint code?
Re(1): Clover White paint
IP: 4.254.117.209 Posted on January 5, 2008 at 07:02:58 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes, it has a slight green tint. I use the Clover White from AGCO. For me it is the cheapest and best way to go. And I feel it is the "right" color. Larry
1972 Oliver 1365
IP: 63.170.92.80 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 10:48:30 AM by Ken Filkins
Larry, I am having trouble with milky transmission oil. I change once a year and it is always milky. I think this is from condensation forming inside the gear box as I know of no other source of water, is this possible? Also steering box gets moisture in it.Three point does not work until it warms up and steering locks up as well if it gets cold enough before oil change. What do you recommend for transmission oil? Owners manual says 20w-40 API-MS, but this is not available anymore. Have been using JD Hydro transmission oil. Thanks for any advice you can give. Ken
Re(1): 1972 Oliver 1365
IP: 4.254.117.209 Posted on January 5, 2008 at 06:59:36 AM by Larry Harsin
Yes. That is possible. Hy-Tran Ultra has the highest rating for combating moisture. It is available at your Case/IH Dealer. Larry
1850 Oil Pressure
IP: 207.103.48.60 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 05:03:19 AM by Steve
Larry - had 1850 in for some repairs - drained engine oil to change - let sit empty for acouple of days - refilled the system and couldn't get any pressure. Had to pull filter and prime the lines / pulled capillary port and primed the line- then pressure came back. Never had to do that before ever. Question is - is that a sign of a weak oil pump? couldn't pressurize the system w/ cranking? Ever hear of this before? Thanks Steve
Re(1): 1850 Oil Pressure
IP: 4.158.84.51 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 06:32:33 AM by Larry Harsin
I'd caution you not to let the engine sit and drain that long. You just shouldn't let an engine set that long, after you've had it warmed. It will dry out. Probably, if you'd pull the oil pump out you will find worn bushings and wear there. Larry
Paint
IP: 71.36.133.8 Posted on January 3, 2008 at 05:42:52 PM by Bob
I am restoring a 1947, 70 RowCrop. I need the color of the Red and the Yellow , Brand, Color # etc. Thank you Bob
Re(1): Paint
IP: 4.158.84.51 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 06:28:55 AM by Larry Harsin
The red paint is Martin Senour #99L-3752. The yellow paint for the grill is Dupont Dulux 029. Larry
Super 55
IP: 24.59.91.98 Posted on January 3, 2008 at 03:54:46 PM by Dave
Hi larry great site,My brother just bought a 1956 super 55 diesel we are wondering how many were built with forward PTO control as this has it.He was talking to the dumonts about decals for his 58 super 550 diesel and mentioned that he had bought the super 55,Mr dumont told him it was rare the other oddity is that it is all green wheels and all,We know this from scraping paint to the metal to find out what color the wheels should have been,I tried to contact sherry at oliver heritage but havent gotten a reply.Any info you could tell us would be great Thank you Dave
Re(1): Super 55
IP: 4.158.84.51 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 06:26:32 AM by Larry Harsin
I wasn't aware that any of the S55's had the forward PTO control lever. Possibly, it was added later. There aren't any production numbers on how many S55's were built each year. A 1956 would have green wheels. The first 2 yrs. of production had green wheels, so this isn't necessarily odd. Sherry may be gone researching a story for the magazine. Larry
Re(2): Super 55
IP: 170.158.96.99 Posted on January 4, 2008 at 10:45:59 AM by Dave Elen
Thanks Larry I will send you a picture of it,Looks factory installed,It`s on the right hand side next to the dash cowl Dave
Re(3): Super 55
IP: 4.158.84.118 Posted on January 7, 2008 at 06:07:01 AM by Larry Harsin
This is like the late 550's had. I am guessing that someone did some cutting and put it in there. Larry